"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - Jan. & Feb. 2005 Archives


Value 1265

IP: 204.119.61.242 Posted on February 28, 2005 at 05:41:23 PM by Lee deVries

I would like to know the value range of an Oliver 1265 with a Davis front loader. Am attending an auction soon and don't have any idea of the value of this tractor.

Re(1): Value 1265

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on March 1, 2005 at 07:17:45 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a running tractor, 2 wheel drive with loader, approx. $4500. If it is a front wheel assist, add another $1500. Larry


1800 oliver paint codes

IP: 66.21.122.130 Posted on February 28, 2005 at 03:58:11 PM by marty

Does anyone have paint codes for a 1800B oliver tractor.all i can find is the old green and I need the newer green.thanks

Re(1): 1800 oliver paint codes

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on March 1, 2005 at 07:15:20 AM by Larry Harsin

That is Meadow Green and Clover White. We get it from AGCO. If you don't have a dealer, Oliver Meadow Green 1958 and up is Martin Senour 99L-3751 and Clover White is PPG DAR 8805 Alabaster White. We have found that the paint from AGCO is cheaper and is the correct one. Larry


88 carb

IP: 161.184.176.221 Posted on February 28, 2005 at 01:59:10 AM by Kevin Lohner

My 88 Standard has a TSX 221 carb. Was leaking fuel and not running well. Installed needle, seat, float. Now leaks fuel and doesnt run hardly at all. Kit was for several models? eg. do I need clip/spring on needle head at float? -adjusting screw shorter in kit. Where can I find comprehensive repair, overhaul, parts, data on this carb as well as governor, throttle settings, adjusting, repair? Have IT manual and find it far too general. Also need Power needle? at bowl of carb

Re(1): 88 carb

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 28, 2005 at 12:13:25 PM by Ron

Sounds like dirt in the gas. A tiny spec will keep the float needle off the seat. I've had good luck with replacing the fuel line and inserting a NAPA 3033 inline fuel filer. It's metal with a paper element inside.

Re(2): 88 carb

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on March 1, 2005 at 07:13:12 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are getting clean fuel to the carb and it is still leaking, the gasket where the fuel nozzle screws into the carb may be broken or missing. The instructions furnished with your kit should be sufficient to repair the carb. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. about the power needle 800-320-6224. You could talk to Mary Ann at the Museum in Charles City for a detailed shop manual for your 88. It covers all of this extensively. However, this Shop Manual is expensive as it covers everything from 1950 up to the 4 digit tractors. Their phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


1655 crankshaft

IP: 69.40.131.213 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 05:12:52 PM by Derek

Larry, would a 4 1/2 in. crankshaft fit into a 1655 without swelling the block? Thanks.

Re(1): 1655 crankshaft

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 11:33:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. Larry


1950 Detroit Diesel

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on February 26, 2005 at 11:53:18 PM by David Cruise

Hello....... I was wondering if anyone knows about the Detroit Diesel that was used in the 1950 series tractors. Was it a 2 cycle diesel? Was it turbo charged? I seen one on E-Bay a few days ago and was thinking of bidding on it. I currently own a 1850 Gas and a 1650 Diesel. I use them for making hay in the summer. I use the 1850 for running my 12 foot discbine. it is absolutely killing me in fuel. I can't believe how much fuel that tractor uses while running that discbine. I thought if I went to a diesel it would be more economical. Any ideas? Thank You....

Re(1): 1950 Detroit Diesel

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 05:29:05 AM by RON

Yep, noisy too. Around here diesel fuel sells for $.20 MORE per gallon than gas and it gets cold so you can't hardly give a diesel away.

Re(2): 1950 Detroit Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 11:27:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1950 Detroit is a 2 cycle 4 cylinder. It's a 4 - 53 meaning it has 4 cylinders 53 cu. inches per cylinder. It has approx 100 HP on the PTO. The biggest negative of this engine is that it is noisy. It a gear driven super charger. Fuel consumption will be a lot more economical than the tractors that you are using. Larry


770 power booster clutch

IP: 24.236.194.94 Posted on February 24, 2005 at 05:33:15 PM by steve tower

Let me say this is one of the best sites i've seen on any subject and so well used. i have a 770 gas with a power booster that doesn't work[which I can live with] but the clutch plates have given away for the third time over the past ten years and there's no cobbling them back together this time. Do you carry these or where are they available?

Re(1): 770 power booster clutch

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 24, 2005 at 11:16:22 PM by Ron

You might try www.valu-bilt.com.

Re(2): 770 power booster clutch

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 11:20:29 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224 or your local AGCO dealer. Larry


1655 steering

IP: 208.7.37.42 Posted on February 24, 2005 at 01:27:54 AM by lyle schilpp

Have a 1655 diesel that the power steering has quit. worked when i bought it but it was used on a hyd drive auger and was out after return, any ideas?

Re(1): 1655 steering

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 24, 2005 at 08:08:13 AM by Ron

The hydraulic pump provides the pressure for the power steering. Assuming the 3 pt works and there are no leaks I'd suspect that someone fooled with the valves on the pump. This is all spelled out in the Operator's Manual.

The power steering drive motor under the dash may have failed but usually they leak first. There is also a spool valve on the pump that may have quit; its purpose is to divert some fluid from the pump to the drive motor. You'll need a service manual to locate and check/replace it.

Re(2): 1655 steering

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 24, 2005 at 12:35:30 PM by Larry from MD

First check to see if there is oil in the systeml.If the 3 point works my first place to look would be the flow divider spring.It in the valve thats by your left heel when sitting on the tractor.Remove the three bolts and pull off the part that points to the rear of the tractor.The spring should be pushing on this piece if not its broke.When the hydrolics are used hard it sends preasure spikes to this part.Failures are sort of common when used hard.

Re(1): 1655 steering

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on February 25, 2005 at 00:27:59 AM by J Ulmer

Does your steering wheel cycle to left or right when you put finger pressure either way with motor running and the wheels stay in the same position? On a 1979 IHC several years ago the steering just went out and it was the rubber ring in the steering motor(Under the steering wheel) which had gotten hard from age and heat and would not seal when the wheel was turned thereby not furnishing oil displacement. Put in a new one and worked great, but be careful during disassembly if you go this route after checking other stuff , that you don't lose any of the rollers on the floor or you will be buying a complete kit instead of just the rubber collar. (and if the Oliver uses something different, please forgive my interjection...I just know lots of stuff shares the same technologies from suppliers.)

P.S. Our steering motor was bone dry in the leak department as the seals were okay, it was the internal which had gotten hard and bad. The complete kit had new shaft seals and replacement rollers (if the old ones are pitted or grooved they need replacing)

Re(3): 1655 steering

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 11:17:31 PM by Larry Harsin

I would check the flow divider first and make sure that the spool isn't sticking in the bore. Clean it up and then try it. Larry


1655 STEERING

IP: 208.7.37.42 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 11:24:19 AM by LYLE SCHILPP

THE POWER STEERING OUIT COMPLETELY,.3 POINT AND HYDS WORK OK. THE ONLY WAY TO STEER IS WHEN MOVING .SYSTEM HAS NO LEAKS. HAD THE FLOW DEVIDER APART , IT HAS SHIMS BEHIND THE SPRING.

Re(1): 1655 STEERING IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on February 27, 2005 at 11:30:16 PM by Larry Harsin

It's the other spring that you have to check (on the regulator side). The one you checked is the relief valve side. Larry


4 Number wheatland frontends

IP: 24.123.1.189 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 02:10:51 PM by Tim Paston

I am currently looking for a wheatland front end that I can put under a 1655 or larger any help with this would be greatly apreciated

Re(1): 4 Number wheatland frontends

IP: 67.2.249.67 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 05:05:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I have one that isn't completly there, I think I took a part off of it. Email me in a week and I'll check it out. I think I have most of it. We are heading out for the National HPOCA meeting and won't be home until Mon. Feb. 28. Larry


Oliver Superior Grain Drill

IP: 65.25.94.6 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 10:05:40 PM by Elizabeth & Larry Porter

We can not find any information on the settings of the drill. or if we can use this drill to plant soy beans. Any information will be helpful. Thank you.

Re(1): Oliver Superior Grain Drill

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 08:44:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact the museum in Charles City and get an Operator's Manual and a Seeding Chart for this drill. Email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


Super 77 Towing

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 01:33:54 PM by Chuck

Is there an easy way to set up a tow bar on the front of a 77? I would like to be able to pull this behind my pick up to travel from field to field. It has such an incredibly slow road gear. Thanks,

Re(1): Super 77 Towing

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 08:39:36 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd get a dolly - you'll probably have to have one built. You drive up on it with the front wheels and chain it down, put the tractor in neutral and go.... A welding shop can probably make one. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 Towing

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on February 25, 2005 at 00:37:17 AM by J.Ulmer

Just don't go tooo fast. We fixed one of those car dollys the folks pull their car behind a motor home to drag an old poppin johnny , not as much for speed as towing the tractor with the pickup beat towing the pickup with the tractor (in the wind and cold!!!)

Re(3): Super 77 Towing

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on February 25, 2005 at 10:12:43 AM by Chuck

Thanks Guys. I had a guy telling me that he had just made a simple hitch for his farmall. I finally went and looked at it and it is attached to an exposed steering gear on the front. No such thing on my oliver. I think the tow dolly will be my best bet. Thanks again.


1655 overhaul

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 01:48:07 PM by Billybob-Ia.

Larry, we are going to put sleeves and pistons in our tractor, would you put oversized onesin, pump&injectors are rebuilt,turned up 5 hp. It is a 1974, what needs tobe done to the head to make it right,just want to be able to talk to the guys at the machine senseably Thank you. Billybob-Ia

Re(1): 1655 overhaul

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 04:40:30 PM by Ron

The whole idea of sleeves is to eliminate having to overbore cylinders. You'll also find standard size sleeves/pistons/rings are cheaper than oversize.

You can spend a lot or a little on a head. At the minimum, the shop will check it for cracks and if OK then surface it dead flat. They will also check all the parts and replace any that are suspect. Usually these will be cracked valves and/or seats.

If budget allows and you expect to keep the tractor a long time, you might want to let them replace everything except the head casting itself. This means new head bolts too.

Re(2): 1655 overhaul

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 00:40:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I would not install oversized sleeves and pistons. I would follow the reccommendations of the machine shop people. Larry

Re(3): 1655 overhaul

IP: 64.12.116.66 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 08:24:06 AM by Billybob-Ia.

Thank you very much for all of the information, that is exactly what we will do. Also what do you think of Clevelite kit for this tractor, Our mechanic says he has heard of problems with them, he uses Perfect Circle,Clevelite is cheaper, but we want to do it right. Thank you. Billybob-Ia.

Re(4): 1655 overhaul

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 08:42:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd follow the mechanic's reccommendation. A little more at the start, but it may be the way to go. Larry


super 88

IP: 216.220.251.252 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 11:17:49 AM by mike

what should the cyclinder compression be on a super 88 diesel?

Re(1): super 88

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 00:37:16 AM by Larry Harsin

They're pretty high. I'd guess approx. 200 lbs. I don't use a compression tester on the diesels. Larry


Parts

IP: 66.82.52.154 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 00:21:41 AM by Terry Lister Larry Im looking for a cyl head for a 1600D & a late Year A Round QT-1 cab for 1655 . Hope to see you in Moline Thank's Terry Lister

Re(1): Parts

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 08:38:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these and I don't know anyone who might have. As you know, that cylinder head is a tough one to find. We will be in Moline. Larry


1800 steering

IP: 66.133.189.51 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 10:20:47 PM by tom

MY 1800 1950 and 1855 tractors will not steer when it gets cold the steering wheel is froze solid you cant move it. If I need to use the tractor I have to pour hot water on the steering colum. The 1950 I had apart because I thought moisture was trappedin some place but I didn't find anything?

Re(1): 1800 steering

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on February 20, 2005 at 09:49:53 AM by Larry Harsin

This is not uncommon. When the temp gets so cold, the metals cause the unit to sieze. If you start your tractor and let it run for a few minutes, it will usually be o.k. The oil running through the unit will warm it and equalize things. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 207.195.212.79 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 04:08:22 PM by elijah quist

well i found a place called mibochs that has all the parts I need bu it all adds up to like 1200$ i cant really spend that kind of money i need to go to school so I was thinking of putting a chevy small block in it. would you look down upon me for doing that and would the tractors tranny hold up to it or would I ruin it. Im thinkin I should have baught that 70 you have would have been cheeper. says fresh overhaul i think you told me 1200 for it. what was all don to the motor i might still be interested in it. anyway in aug. we have a threshing show oliver wont be the feature tractor for a few more years but you guys should think about loadin up a couple of tractors and come up for it you could visit your son at the same time its like a 1/2 hour from forest lake

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on February 20, 2005 at 09:46:43 AM by Larry Harsin

This is typical for an old 70. It's not uncommon to have $2500 invested in an engine overhaul before you get done. Parts are expensive. As far as putting a car engine in this tractor, I don't think you will get paid for your trouble. When is your show at Forest Lake? Larry

Re(2): oliver 70

IP: 207.195.212.87 Posted on February 20, 2005 at 03:14:07 PM by elijah quist

do you have your 70 for sale for 1200 still if the motor was completely rebuilt I wont to buy it I could use all the sheet metal off mine to make it complete I could pick it up in a couple of weeks if I wont it. The show is in almelund its 1/2 hour from forest lake from what I herd its one of the bigger ones around its the 19th-21st of august love to see ya guys there. I think case is the feature tractor this year

Re(3): oliver 70

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 11:30:05 AM by julmer

I don't think you would be happy at all after working to repower with a small block Chevy as the rpm with any power and torque is double what the top speed of your Oliver motor (and consequently the drive line) were engineered for. I don't remember what the 70 max rpm is (around 1800 to 2000 rpms) but the short stroke of the Chevrolet lets it redline ar 4200 to 4600 rpm. You have no torque or power in the short stroke V-8 at 1600 to 2000 rpm and the drive line just wasn't designed to turn that fast (at the engine's power curve range)

Re(4): oliver 70

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 04:48:03 PM by Ron

I saw a 1755 with a 454 Chevy in it and the guy was happy with it. But he ended up running the exhaust under the tractor which didn't look too practical and he said he spent way more than the tractor was worth to do the swap.

Re(5): oliver 70

IP: 207.195.212.79 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 00:16:56 AM by elijah quist

thanks guys im not doing it

Re(6): oliver 70

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 08:23:13 PM by Julmer

The 1755 is newer and designed for higher rpm, and the 454 with lots more cubes has significantly more hp and torque when throttled back vs the small blocks. It might be a nice toy, but probably not too practical. Pullers are a different breed playing a different game!!

Re(7): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 08:49:41 AM by Larry Harsin

We'll have to plan to come another year. That is the same dates as the National Oliver Show at Baraboo WI this year. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 63.228.39.127 Posted on February 21, 2005 at 07:53:01 PM by elijah quist

do you still have your 70 for sale for 1200$ says fresh engine overhaul if it was completely rebilt I want to buy it I could pick it up in a couple of weeks thanks

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on February 22, 2005 at 00:43:09 AM by Larry Harsin

We talked about this on the phone since you posted this message. I didn't do the overhaul, the former owner did. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 67.4.146.83 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 00:15:23 AM by elijah quist

I can get the head milled on my oliver 70 for free from my brother can I take off more than needed to build compression or would that not work, How much can you take off, thanks

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 06:11:40 AM by Ron

Have your mechanic check compression per the manual. If the engine needs sleeves/pistons/rings they need replacement. Milling the heads will do nothing. If the engine needs valves/seats, they need replacement. Milling the heads will do nothing. Raising the compression ratio through milling is only done to otherwise healthy engines and is generally not done to tractors used for field work.

Re(2): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on February 23, 2005 at 08:46:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't take off any more than was necessary to get the head trued up. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 63.228.39.127 Posted on February 17, 2005 at 01:55:06 AM by elijah quist

well the only parts ive found on the net have been a full gasket set for $157, piston pin bushings, and rings for my 70. I definatly have to have main bearings and they need to be oversized and cam bearings. I would like rod bearings to. if I cant get oversized crank bearings do you have a used crank I also need 1 used rod. I need valves seats and springs too. you know where i can get any of these parts thanks Elijah

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 165.234.86.62 Posted on February 18, 2005 at 04:17:01 PM by DanF

Have you checked with your local machine shop? Motor Service in Minot, ND ground my crank and was able to supply the correct bearings. They weren't cheap but I haven't seen them cheaper anywhere else.

Re(2): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:34:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I have some NOS main bearings. I think I have a rod if you need it. Otherwise, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Sorry to be so slow in answering these questions. We have been gone to the National Machinery Show in Louisville KY Larry


hp 1555 Cockshutt

IP: 142.161.196.228 Posted on February 18, 2005 at 11:50:24 PM by wes

cockshutt 1555 would be what hp rating on 6cyl. gas engine

Re(1): hp 1555 Cockshutt

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:54:55 AM by Larry Harsin

53 HP. Larry


Wide fronts for fleetlines

IP: 216.135.27.51 Posted on February 18, 2005 at 10:13:01 PM by Chris

I have posted on another website but thought you may know for sure. Will a wide front from an 88 fit on a 77 OK? Thanks

Re(1): Wide fronts for fleetlines

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:58:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will fit. Also, a wide front from an 880 will fit a 77. Larry


Oliver 77 Diesel

IP: 69.20.195.174 Posted on February 18, 2005 at 05:10:52 PM by Rob Wemhoff

Hello Larry, I have a 53 Oliver 77 Diesel that I use on my acreage, this is my only tractor and I want to rebuild the engine and transmission, currently it runs and I use it for moving snow, mowing, disking an planting. In a couple years I'm going to start putting up my own hay and I want the tractor to be sound mechanically. My question is, do you know of anyone in South Central Nebraska, or North Central Kansas that rebuilds oliver diesel engines. I would be able to pull the engine my self and deliver it, but I have never rebuilt a diesel before and I want it done right. This tractor was bought new in 1953 by my grandpa, and has never been rebuilt.

Re(1): Oliver 77 Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:46:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Duane Starr, a former Company Rep. who lives in that area. He will be able to answer your question better than I. His email is: bastar@inetnebr.com Larry


1450

IP: 198.150.162.33 Posted on February 18, 2005 at 04:23:19 PM by Doug

Hello there! I love the Oliver site! I was wondering two things.... 1) The fuel bowl in my 1450 diesel seems like it is constantly "filling" Is it supposed to be "full" like the other tractors I have? Do I need a new fuel pump or filter? 2) Where do you get parts for oliver tractors? (Websites, etc)

Re(1): 1450

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:41:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't quite understand your first question. As far as I know, fuel bowls are usually full. As long as your tractor works o.k. you shouldn't need a new pump or filter. The 1450 is a Fiat Oliver. You can check with AgPartsFirst.com OR Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932 or Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557 or this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry


1850 Hydraulic GPM

IP: 66.97.237.213 Posted on February 16, 2005 at 09:45:55 PM by DanF

What was the maximum GPM hydraulic pump used in 1850's?

Re(1): 1850 Hydraulic GPM

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:29:36 AM by Larry Harsin

The maximum GPM hydraulic pump in 1850's was approx. 15 gal. Larry


plow identification

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on February 15, 2005 at 01:15:48 AM by Dan McClure

I bought a 4x14 3 point plow and am trying to figure out the model so i can get the right moldeboards,shins,points on the back of moldeboard it has 625-14and below that it says 217725 any help would be appreciated

Re(1): plow identification

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 16, 2005 at 01:05:38 PM by Larry from MD

The 625-14 tells you all you need to get those parts.The shares are the same for both bottems.The other bottems will have a number like 419-14.So all you need to do is tell the parts man i have 625-14's and want parts to fit.

Re(2): plow identification

IP: 64.12.116.66 Posted on February 16, 2005 at 10:33:46 PM by dan mcclure will 419 619 moldboards work on this plow?

Re(3): plow identification

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 17, 2005 at 02:04:51 PM by Larry from MD

The 419 and 625 will not interchange.


310 crank

IP: 65.73.162.66 Posted on February 14, 2005 at 11:57:05 PM by tom

I would like to find a 310 short block W/O oil cooler that I could rebuild My crank has 3 mains that will not clean and my block is broken though the oil galley Where should I look

Re(1): 310 crank

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:21:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. OR Wes Dorhout 712-324-2760. Larry


1963 1600 tractor

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on February 14, 2005 at 08:56:36 PM by ron

tractor does not want to go from low to high gear does ok in low until going down hill with bailer. i want to take apart and fix but want a picture of what im getting into. is there bearings in there around the shaft not holding it in and bleeding by ? if you could e-mail a picture. or e-mail me and give a hint i would be gratefull thanks ron

Re(1): 1963 1600 tractor

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 15, 2005 at 08:44:04 AM by Ron

You'll need the service and parts manuals which are available from the Floyd County Museum among other places. The email address can be found in the archives.

Re(2): 1963 1600 tractor

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on February 19, 2005 at 11:18:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Since we have just answered your email, we won't go into details. We have been gone to the National Farm Machinery Show in Louisville KY. Sorry for the delay in answering. Larry


1655 Brakes

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on February 14, 2005 at 08:06:39 PM by Billybob-Ia.

Larry we have a brake pinion seal leaking, took everything out of drum except last plate and maybe oil cup, the last plate does not want to move.Got a seal from dealer, he says the new style does not use the oil cup, how can we remove the last plate. Thank you Billybob Ia.

Re(1): 1655 Brakes

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 15, 2005 at 08:49:24 PM by Larry from MD

You may have to cut it in half to remove.Sometimes they just plain get stuck.

Re(2): 1655 Brakes

IP: 152.163.100.66 Posted on February 16, 2005 at 09:03:28 AM by Billybob- Ia.

Larry thank you very much for the help, we got the oil cupout,the seal was quite an adventure, but we got it. Thanks again. Billybob-Ia.


66 rc

IP: 209.206.228.109 Posted on February 13, 2005 at 10:17:58 AM by Al Kale

trying to find a starter switch and an ignition switch for this tractor.

Re(1): 66 rc

IP: 67.2.248.211 Posted on February 14, 2005 at 01:05:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Korves Bros: Email: korves@htc.net Phone 618-939-6681. Larry


oliver 70 better do it right the first time!

IP: 207.195.212.88 Posted on February 12, 2005 at 04:39:30 PM by elijah quist

well I pulled the head off of my 70 and 3 valves were sticky so im gonna have the head done but i figured if I was going to do that i better put rings in it well tomake a long story short at 3:30 this morning i had a engine block with the cam left in it and boxes full of parts. the crank itself and the bearing have some wear on them would it be safe to run them or not, there was like a half inch of sludge at the bottom of the oil pan. It doesnt have the cracks inbetween the cylinders like everyone talks about. Havnt measured yet but I think I could get buy with just throwing rings in it. well my question is does anyone have a rebuild kit for it or seperate parts, is there any oversized crank bearings for it so I could turn the crank or not. and do you go over heads for people or not incase the head shop here cant any advise. THANKS

Re(1): oliver 70 better do it right the first time!

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on February 13, 2005 at 01:23:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The people at the machine shop can look at that and advise you better on what to do. If you need connecting rod and main bearings, I do have a few of those in different sizes. Have your machine shop do the measuring and determine what you need. While you have this engine torn down, you should make sure your cam bearings are o.k. This is something 70's need. If you need help finding other parts, let me know. Your head shop will be able to handle this better than I can. They can install seats etc. Email me if you want any of this stuff. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry


parts 66 RC

IP: 24.59.61.215 Posted on February 11, 2005 at 11:06:54 AM by john parmeter

where can i find parts for an oliver66 rowcrop? i need a breather assembly from the carb. , exhaust,muffler. john

Re(1): parts 66 RC

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on February 11, 2005 at 10:21:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Glen Brink 712-385-8540. Or Arnold Meyer. Email: almeyer@frontiernet.net Larry


parts 1265

IP: 66.222.84.143 Posted on February 11, 2005 at 03:27:13 PM by jim

Where can I find parts for a 1265 oliver? I need a outter tie rodend for this tractor ?

Re(1): parts

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on February 11, 2005 at 10:24:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932 or Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557 or check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry


oliver 70

IP: 63.228.39.127 Posted on February 9, 2005 at 09:20:03 PM by elijah quist

I have a oliver 70 row crop that sat for 20 years i converted it to 12 volts and to electronic ignition. it will start but it shoots flames out of the carb and exhaust i think the timing might be off so could you give me a run through on how to set the timing on it. also i did a compression test after soaking it was #1.70psi #2.100psi #3.96psi #4.86psi #5.90psi and #6.81psi does that sound about right. any info woud be appriciated

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.79 Posted on February 10, 2005 at 09:30:56 AM by Larry Harsin

To set the timing on a 70, with the engine running at slow idle, loosen the 2 clamp bolts that hold the distributor and turn the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. Turn it until the engine labors, then go the opposite way until it begins to run smooth. This is usually where I end up. If you want to use a timing light, with the engine at slow idle, I like for the light to flash when it is a Top Dead Center. Then when you speed up the engine, the mechanical advance in the distributor should put it at approx. 20 degrees when the engine is running at full throttle. You mentioned the engine backfiring through the carb and the exhaust - I would be inclined to check for a sticking valve or possibly a broken valve spring. While you are at it, you may want to adjust the valves. Set them at approx. .012. Larry

Re(2): oliver 70

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 10, 2005 at 01:28:31 PM by Ron

The flames are from bad valves. The compression is way too low, I think it should be closer to 150, check the manual. Even if they are low the engine might run OK if they are all within 15% of each others. Yours are out by 30%. I'd pull the head and see what you are up against.


help with motor rebuild

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on February 8, 2005 at 00:56:19 AM by tom jones

larry iam trying to build a pulling motor for a 77 rc . iwas thinking 3 3/4 overbore kit ,maybe a bigger carb ,and i guess i dont no what eles to do .can you give me any ideas thank you tom , p.s this just for local pulling in my area

Re(1): help with motor rebuild

IP: 67.2.249.45 Posted on February 8, 2005 at 08:49:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I would put on a 770 head and intake manifold. Then you can install a 770 carb also. That should help. I have a 770 head if you need one. Just email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry


Oliver 77 Carb. Adj.

IP: 68.74.45.99 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 10:44:20 AM by Darian E Spiers

I have beeh having toruble with my Oliver 77 Gas. It has been fowling plugs and running rich. It will idle fine but lugs down and will stall out under a load. I cleaned the card. But can't seem to find any Info. on Carburetor adjustments. Please help. Any Information you may have will greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 77 Carb. Adj.

IP: 67.2.248.41 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 11:33:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The load needle should be set at a turn and a half initially. The idle mixture needle should have an initial setting of 3/4 of a turn. After you get the engine running, you will have to adjust these to where it runs the best. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 77 Carb. Adj.

IP: 68.74.45.99 Posted on February 9, 2005 at 04:12:41 PM by Darian E Spiers

Larry, Thank you for the advice on the carb. My tractor is running alot better. But, I had a couple of other Questions about the Oliver 77 gas tractor. The first is, what is the plug gap? And the second is, what is the gap for the points. Thank you again for your time. Darian E Spiers

Re(3): Oliver 77 Carb. Adj.

IP: 67.2.248.79 Posted on February 10, 2005 at 09:33:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The plug gap is .025. The gap for the points .022. You should get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. Email the Museum at: fchs@fiai.net Larry


Coupler chain replacement

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 01:36:16 PM by RB

I have to replace the coupler chain on my 1955. Could you tell me how to do it? Thanks, RB

Re(1): Coupler chain replacement

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 09:18:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Very carefully! :) :) Just go at it and get it done! It won't be easy. You'll have to work mainly from the bottom. It is slow and tedious. When you get the new chain in there, be sure and use a long cotter key to go through both pins on one side of the connector link. Probably, the new chain will have that long pin in it. This is a very important thing to have in there. Larry

Re(2): Coupler chain replacement

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 01:41:18 PM by Larry from MD

One thing is to have the transmission in neutral and hydropower in low.This way the two shafts will turn easy in the direction that the engine turns.Its much easyer than trying to go against all the drag.

Re(3): Coupler chain replacement

IP: 24.187.69.249 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 03:20:59 PM by Hal

Does the cotter pin go on the side of the chain closest to the hydropower or the transmission? Is it important which way the head of the cotter pin faces? Should the head be pointing in the direction of engine rotation or doesn't it matter?

Re(4): Coupler chain replacement

IP: 67.2.248.41 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 11:30:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Either side. It isn't important which way the head of the cotter pin faces. It doesn't matter if it is in the direction of engine rotation or not. Larry

Re(5): Coupler chain replacement

IP: 64.85.217.31 Posted on February 9, 2005 at 00:17:09 AM by Jason Epperson

On my 1800 I found it easier to take the speedometer drive housing off. It gives you a little more room on the bottom to work with


1655

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 12:33:47 PM by Billybob-Ia.

Larry we got the 1655 home, New mains and rod bearings,she holds good oil pressure. It has 4900 hrs. seems to have quite a lot of blowby,no history on tractor. What do you think of in frame sleeves and pistons, and do head ,ball park figure on cost. Wife says 88 diesel will have to be sold. Thank you. Billybob-Ia.

Re(1): 1655

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 09:14:32 AM by Larry Harsin

It's very feasible to do an "in frame" overhaul on this tractor. However, I'd wait and use it a season, to see how it actually is. Some blow-by is not a problem, especially if you do not have excessive oil consumption and starting and performance is o.k. An "in-frame" overhaul will be approx. $1000 - $1500 for the parts plus the labor. Larry


Oliver 70 Tranny

IP: 4.252.192.27 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 01:20:31 AM by Rick

Hi Larry. I have an Oliver 70 that has been in our family for getting close to 60 years. It was my father's and now mine. I am having problems with the tranny. Still works fine in 1st, 2nd, 6th, and reverse, but the other gears don't stay engaged. For example, when I put the transmission in say 4th gear, the tractor begins to move forward ok and then not long after it 'pops' out of gear all by itself. I am having this problem in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. I did take the cover off for the shift lever and notice that the 's' channels that the shift lever ride in are worn some. Do you have any ideas if that is possibly the only problem or do you have ideas about what other problems there may be in the tranny? Is there a way to restore the shifter 's' channels controled by the shift lever? Thanks for your help. Dad always told me our oliver was a 1948. The serial number is 249415. I have since found literature that says that serial number would actually be a 1944 model. Do you agree? Also, can a RC 70 be retrofited with a wide front end without running into problems with the steering linkage? Thanks again Larry for any help!!

Re(1): Oliver 70 Tranny

IP: 67.2.242.117 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 08:36:35 AM by Larry Harsin

According to your serial number, your tractor was built in 1944. One of the first thing I would check, besides the wear that you are noting is, the 2 bearings on the input gear. One is a ball bearing that sits in the front of the front housing that supports the input gear. The other is a small cage type bearing inside the input gear to the trans. shaft. If those 2 bearings are worn, it will get so that it won't stay in gear. It is quite an involved operation to fit a wide front onto a 70. You should talk to Arnold Meyer about putting a wide front onto a 70. Email him at: almeyer@frontiernet.net Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 Tranny

IP: 4.252.192.182 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 08:24:35 PM by Rick

Thanks so much for the suggestions Larry. It's good to make acquaintance with an expert on the Olivers. From what you are describing to me, I should be checking both ends of the main pinion shaft in the transmission. I show those bearings as items #12 and #29 in my Oliver book. It will be the first place I will look later this year when I have time to get into it. Can you further help me with this? It appears to me that the large rear tranny cover is mostly for access to the final drive, the differential and bull gears and such. So where does one start digging to get to the actual gears in the tranny? Are they located directly under the power lift for the cultivators? Does one have to remove the tractor sheet metal and steering box to get into the gears? One other question. You didn't comment if it was possible to get new, what I call 's' channels, for where the shift lever contacts those sliders in the tranny. Getting used parts in that area would probably not gain much. Are those 's' channel parts available new anywhere? Thanks so much Larry.

Re(3): Oliver 70 Tranny

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 09:08:05 AM by Larry Harsin

The items that I am talking about being worn are items # 92 and # 97. Also, that input gear #65 may have to be replaced. It is called a F1023A Pinion. Yes, to get to the gears in the trans, you have to remove the power lift. You will probably have to remove the sheet metal and the steering box. What you are calling "s" channels are the shift rails. It's possible that someone might have new ones. If you can't find better ones, you can possibly have yours built up at a welding shop. They'll tell you if they can do it or not. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 70 Tranny

IP: 4.252.196.225 Posted on February 8, 2005 at 00:15:05 AM by Rick

My Oliver manual shows the 'main drive pinion' as F-1023-A, item #27 in my book. I think we must be looking at different books. I do understand the shaft you are talking about, though. My references to those bearing you talked about that may be worn are the bearing on the ends of that 'main drive pinion' that I refer to above. I am pretty sure we are talking about the same thing. My tranny references only go up as far as item #51. I am looking in an original owners manual for the Oliver 70. Thanks for the welding suggestion on the 'shift rails'. I wish I could find a source for new ones...any ideas? Thanks for the help Larry.

Re(5): Oliver 70 Tranny

IP: 67.2.249.48 Posted on February 11, 2005 at 09:19:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, we are talking about the same shaft, F1023A. I don't know of any place to find new shift rails. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I really don't think the shift rails are causing it to jump out of gear. It is easy to build them up. Larry


Oliver HG 68

IP: 198.81.26.10 Posted on February 4, 2005 at 04:17:56 PM by Mark

I am looking at buying a HG 68, is there a way to hook up a 3 pt hitch to these? Even if it is a manual lift. I would like to be able to run a brush hog and some trencing equipment. Any info will help.

Re(1): Oliver HG 68

IP: 67.2.242.117 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 08:29:09 AM by Larry Harsin Check with Zimmerman Cletrac on this. Their email is: zoc@att.com Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry


Cockshutt 1250

IP: 142.166.235.143 Posted on February 4, 2005 at 03:03:32 PM by Daniel

Hello Larry I have cockshutt 1250 diesel and this is my problem.Last winter the hitch stopped working so this summer I took it apart and found the rubber packing on the piston was torn.I replaced the packing couldn't find the exact same one found one the same size but made of a much stiffer material.Once I had it all together again new oil & filters it worked fine but seemed to jerk a bit.Now this winter again it will not work in the very cold weather and when it does on warmer days when I lay the snow blower down it creeps up and also pushes the lever up.It also seems to come up higher than usual I have to stop it so it don't go up to high.So here's my question do you think maybe the new oil is too thick,the pump is weak a bad valve or even maybe relief valve. I thought maybe some water got in and froze so I added a bit of methyl hydrate to the oil no luck.I don't mind spending a bit of money even if the pump needs to be replaced but I'd like to know how to be sure before I do.Please email me back I'm waiting to here you opinion The motor was rebuilt a short time before I bought it so I think its worth fixing right. Daniel Bourque dcmc@nbnet.nb.ca

Re(1): Cockshutt 1250

IP: 67.2.242.117 Posted on February 6, 2005 at 08:27:17 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like your oil is too thick. Do you have the correct oil?? There is a filter (screen type) that may need to be cleaned. On the gas model, it was near your right foot when you sit in the seat. I think it is probably in the same place on the diesel. You need to get an Operator's Manual. Email the Museum in Charles City to get one: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): Cockshutt 1250

IP: 207.179.161.51 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 05:01:35 PM by Daniel

Thanks Larry.I tend to agree with you but beacuse I asked at a local tractor dealership for the proper oil I was looking somewher else.But in thinking back to the day I bought the oil I'm not sure that I told the guy that the oil is not shared with the transmission.The 1250 has a pump mounted on the front right side near the front of the motor,It's oil is supplied by a reservoir under the seat it is part of the piston housing it probably holds no more than a couple of gallons.I suspect that since the oil is seperate from the transmission the oil he sold me may be too thick.I have an operators manual for a 1255 instead of the 1250 and by reading it the 1255 shares the tranny an hyd. oil so I'm not sure what oil to use. I'll try and get a 1250 book.We have a farm show comming early in march so I'm hoping to get one there.If not I'll get one on the internet(I'm still a little leary about credit card no on the internet).As for the filters there is one inside the tank/piston housing that I cleaned it was a steel mesh one and I seem to remember a smaller wire screen one(approx 3/4"diam x 4"long) but I'm not sure where it was.Daniel

Re(3): Cockshutt 1250

IP: 67.2.248.41 Posted on February 7, 2005 at 11:40:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I really think that you just have the wrong oil in it. I understand about you not wanting to email your credit card no. to the museum. Their phone number is: 641-228-1099.

Re(4): Cockshutt 1250

IP: 208.247.148.12 Posted on February 9, 2005 at 06:49:05 AM by Daniel

Thanks for all your help. I've put your site in my favorites so you'll probably here from me at a later date.I like reading all the posted meesages they are very intersting even if it has nothing to do with my size of tractor.Great work keep it up for us greenhorns.

Re(5): Cockshutt 1250

IP: 67.2.249.48 Posted on February 11, 2005 at 09:23:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad you enjoy the site. We do, also. We enjoy hearing from everyone and helping when we can. Larry


550 Gauges

IP: 63.155.216.161 Posted on February 3, 2005 at 04:00:52 PM by JT

Need repaired or replaced.Guages for 550 oliver.Where can I find this info? Thanks

Re(1): 550 Gauges

IP: 67.2.249.26 Posted on February 4, 2005 at 00:08:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Korves Bros at email: korves@htc.net Larry


parts S55

IP: 66.170.67.52 Posted on February 1, 2005 at 11:37:12 PM by shelly

I want to get a hold of a ball socket cap for a stay rod. Front axle system of a super55

Re(1): parts S55

IP: 67.2.249.247 Posted on February 2, 2005 at 08:11:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1600 Power Steering Cylinder Size

IP: 204.73.103.253 Posted on February 1, 2005 at 06:51:12 PM by P. Dybing

Hello Larry, I am thinking of changing out the power steering valve in my 1600 to a Char-Lynn style to improve the steering. I also have the old style wide front, and would like to speed up the steering (fewer turns lock to lock). My question is, do you know how many cubic inches of oil are required to move the steering cylinder from lock to lock? (i.e. full left to full right turn)? Then I will size the gerotor displacement in the Char-lynn steering unit accordingly. Thanks

Re(1): 1600 Power Steering Cylinder Size

IP: 67.2.249.247 Posted on February 2, 2005 at 08:10:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I have no idea. I don't know where to look that up. Larry

Re(2): 1600 Power Steering Cylinder Size

IP: 204.73.103.253 Posted on February 2, 2005 at 09:24:50 AM by P Dybing

If anyone knows the diameter of the steering cylinder and how many inches it moves left to right in the housing, I can calculate if from there. Thanks

Re(3): 1600 Power Steering Cylinder Size

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on February 2, 2005 at 02:05:54 PM by Larry from MD

I have done a number of thease conversions.At first i would guess on the size needed,now i have more experince.The steering valve out of a massy 510 or 410 combine works great,both in speed and ease of installing.Any steering valve near 4.5cu.in to 5.5 cu.in.will work fine.If you get up near 6 or 7 the wheels will move much faster than any of the other tractors.Go to www.surpluscenter.com and one you want is# 9-5937.


12V - 1850D

IP: 68.145.108.229 Posted on February 1, 2005 at 04:15:40 PM by David

Larry, I am having trouble with my 1850D. I can not get it to crank out more than 12V. I have replaced the alternator and had it double checked, and it makes 13.4 volts on the bench. I have replaced the regulator twice and checked both parts on another tractor, they are fine. What and where should I check next? If I can not fix this primitive and simple set up I may as well turn in my coveralls, wrenches and hay wire.

Re(1): 12V - 1850D

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on February 1, 2005 at 07:06:57 PM by Ron

A Delco alternator should make something closer to 14.0v. The acceptable range is 13.5v to 14.5. But that's not the problem you are having.

I can think of two things, one real easy to check, the other isn't so easy.

1) The belt may be the wrong one, adjusted too loose, or it and the pulleys may be contaminated with oil/grease, etc., causing the belt to slip.

2) You may have a bad connection in the little wiring harness that goes from the alternator to the regulator or one of the wires might be broken internally.

If you check the alternator voltage at the back of the alternator, you should see around 14.0v (use the fat terminal and the case as the ground). If you don't see it, move the "-" probe to mounting bracket, then back to the engine itself. If you see it there, the case is not being properly grounded. Suspect dirt between the bracket/case or engine/bracket.

If you still don't get 14.0v, make up a new set of wires between the alternator and regulator. You don't need the fancy connector at the back of the alternator case, just use an insulated female spade type connector. When you get 14.0v at the alternator, then trace back to the cable connectors themselves on the battery posts; if you don't have 14.0v there you have a bad large ground or positive cable or connection. Then place the probes on the battery terminals themselves. If you don't have 14.0v there, you have corrosion between the battery cable terminals and posts.

Re(2): 12V - 1850D

IP: 67.2.249.247 Posted on February 2, 2005 at 08:08:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you have something bad in your wiring harness or in your battery cables, such as a bad end. Larry


positive ground ?

IP: 64.126.181.64 Posted on January 31, 2005 at 00:57:11 AM by Jack Skille

My Oliver 70 has a 6V positive ground system. I assume that means the (+)post on the battery is connected to the tractor body and the (-) post is hooked to the starter. I hooked it up this way and it starts fine (started the other way around too). Now, do I hook the generator wire (actaully the voltage reg. bat post)to the neg. battery terminal? And if I need to charge this battery do I hook it up backwards in my charger? I did polarize the generator and the ammeter shows charging. How can I be pushing current into a neg. bat. terminal that in it's previous life was pushing current out this terminal? I must be missing something. Jack

Re(1): positive ground ?

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on January 31, 2005 at 08:04:05 AM by Ron

The Operator's Manual should have a wiring diagram; basically in a +G system, every connection is simply the reverse of a -G system. If you hook the battery up to your charger as you suggest, most modern chargers will simply shut-off until you hook it up correctly; that is, + to +, - to -.

Re(2): positive ground ?

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on February 1, 2005 at 00:01:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Ron is correct. The red (or +) wire goes to the ground (or +) terminal on the battery. Larry


Oliver super 77 diesel

IP: 66.211.206.123 Posted on January 30, 2005 at 09:18:17 PM by Ken McChesney

I am restoring a 1955 Oliver Super 77 diesel and plan on pulling this coming season. What is the max RPM for this engine.

Re(1): Oliver super 77 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on January 31, 2005 at 00:47:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't try to run it more than 2500. That's pushing it pretty hard! Larry


Thermostart

IP: 66.210.167.228 Posted on January 29, 2005 at 11:48:18 PM by Jason Stone

can someone tell me where the Thermostart get is fuel from the hose is not connected and i cannot figure out here to plug it back to its a Oliver 1250a Fiat motor

Re(1): Thermostart

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on January 30, 2005 at 00:40:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't understand what you are asking. You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net Larry


oc-3 info

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on January 29, 2005 at 11:20:11 PM by bruce whitfield

i have a oc-3 loader crawler, i can't find where the serial number is on the tractor. does anyone know where it is located, also i need the steering clutches for the right side.

Re(1): oc-3 info

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on January 30, 2005 at 00:37:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Zimmerman Cletrac. Email: zoc@att.net Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry


engine kit for oliver 1250

IP: 209.19.60.17 Posted on January 28, 2005 at 07:13:16 PM by Sam Fox Jr.

Hi, I have an oliver 1250 gas tractor and It needs to have the engine rebuilt. It burns oil really bad, fouls the plugs, and is losing compression. I have been looking for parts but no one has them because it is a rare tractor. Any help would be great. Thank you. Sm Fox Jr.

Re(1): engine kit for oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on January 29, 2005 at 00:30:34 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1250 gas is hard to find parts for, as you are finding out. Here are some places that you can try: Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932, Ag Parts First 866-264-9720, Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557. Also, check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry


power booster

IP: 216.220.249.164 Posted on January 28, 2005 at 11:53:44 AM by Mike

Larry, I am in the proscess of installing a power boster in my 770d. I got a used power boster out of an 880. I tryed to intall the transmision input shaft. the bearings are different,splins are different. Are the input shafts for the power booster different for the770&880 ?

Re(1): power booster

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on January 29, 2005 at 00:25:44 AM by Larry Harsin

If the 880 is a spur gear transmission, the input shafts are identical. If it is not a spur gear transmission, they are different. I have one for the spur gear transmission. You may also need the clutch shaft as the one for a 770 is about 3/4" longer than the 880. Email me if you need these. Larry


hart parr 18-36 question

IP: 63.144.252.82 Posted on January 28, 2005 at 11:51:36 AM by Tom

what material do I use on the friction drive of a 1927 18-36 Hart Parr? Thanks, Tom Mikovsky

Re(1): hart parr 18-36 question

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on January 29, 2005 at 00:19:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't done it, but I've heard that you can take pieces of masonite and grind it down. Check with Dave Preush at email: hartparrtractor@netzero.com. He can answer this better than I. Larry


Oliver 70 oil

IP: 64.126.181.195 Posted on January 28, 2005 at 00:44:04 AM by Jack Skille

Guess I need to buy a manual but in mean time need help. I drained the oil today--- first time for me, probably first time in 25 years for the tractor. Now I can't see where to add new oil. Surely I don't have to get it in thru the dip stick hole? Thanks, Jack

Re(1): Oliver 70 oil

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on January 28, 2005 at 01:13:49 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have a late style 70, the oil fill hole is on the front of the governor housing. It is a pipe cap that unscrews. If you have the older, early style 70, it is on the left front on the generator drive. Larry


Oliver 1800 cyclinder head

IP: 66.94.208.183 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 05:55:41 PM by Chris Conrad

I have an oliver 1800. I broke a plug in the head and once pulled and inspected it had 6 cracks. I am looking for another head but need some help in which casting numbers will work on this tractor. The head I have seems like it goes to an 1850. I found an 1800 head AA222202A and it was too small (length) and no cooling holes on the end. Any help in locating a good head would be great also. I put all the #'s below. A very appreciative Ollie fan.

Tag info - 28-1106 - 134-233-844 - -

Block #'s - 155720A - 221120 - 3293N - -

Head # - AD222502

Re(1): Oliver 1800 cyclinder head

IP: 67.2.248.251 Posted on January 27, 2005 at 11:23:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a cylinder head AD222502 Serial # 134233-844. I will email the info to you. Larry


decal placement

IP: 12.214.170.92 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 11:53:29 AM by jason

do you know where the decals would go for a 1850 oliver tractor such as: Hydra power driver decal; over direct drive under decal; the shift pattern decal; the diesel decal; safety shield decals; the lock bar decal the cold starting procedure decal; and the pto instruction decal

Re(1): decal placement

IP: 67.2.248.153 Posted on January 27, 2005 at 08:10:19 AM by Larry Harsin

The Operator's Manual should show pictures of some of these. The Hydra power drive decal goes on the hood above the numbers 1850. The over direct drive under decal goes on the dash by the lever. The diesel decal goes on the side of the hood directly behind the grill. Do you know someone who has an 1850 you can go look at? Get an Operator's Manual. I'll go look at our 1850. Larry

Re(2): decal placement

IP: 67.2.248.251 Posted on January 27, 2005 at 11:32:17 AM by Larry Harsin

O.K. The cold start decal goes above the choke (stop knob). The Hydra Power Drive decal goes above the control. The gear shift decal goes to the left of the Hydra Power Drive decal. The Hydraul on the instrument panel on the right side of the Tach. Looking down at the PTO Shield, the Be Careful decal goes closer to the tractor with the other one toward you (or below it). Larry


6V generator on Oliver 70

IP: 64.126.180.113 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 04:50:22 AM by Jack Skille

I am reviving a 1945 Oliver 70 and I am having trouble getting the generator to charge the new 6V battery. First, is this system a neg. or a pos. ground? How do I connect the generator to the battery, amp meter, and starter switch. The original wiring is shot. I have the starter wired to the pos. battery terminal through the starter switch and the tractor starts. I also get sparks from "various" terminals on the generator so I know it is trying to generate---because of shot wires the generated electricity is not able to get to the battery. Advice please. Thanks, Jack

Re(1): 6V generator on Oliver 70

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 08:26:02 AM by Ron

Larry might be able to point you at a source for a wiring diagram. You'll need one. Then, remember that every time you disconnect/reconnect the generator it must be polarized. You do so at the regulator. See http://web.utk.edu/~tprather/FoothillsTractorClub/TechTips/PolarizeGenerator.html

Re(2): 6V generator on Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.242.116 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 09:19:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 70 is positive ground. You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. It will have a wiring diagram in it. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net or call them at 641-228-1099. Larry


oliver super 88

IP: 24.3.18.111 Posted on January 25, 2005 at 07:54:42 PM by Ben Janusey

Larry what is the differences between an oliver 88 and an oliver super 88 i am looking for a good clean super 88 gas or diesel to restore and build for pulling i am not always able to get to my e-mails so if you would please call me at (412)997-5722 i would be more than delighted thanks for your time iam from Pennsylvania

Re(1): oliver super 88

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 00:50:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The S88 trans and final drive was built to handle increased power over the Fleetline 88. That is the main difference. The frame is different so that it will accommodate the new style drive-in cultivators (quick tach). Larry


88 diesel side panels

IP: 64.22.217.227 Posted on January 23, 2005 at 01:15:02 PM by Patrick Cavanaugh

how are the skirts on a 49 oliver 88 diesel supposed to look? mine didn't have skirts with it, but i've seen pictures of 77s that have recessed boxes for the injection pump. also, it has an after market power steering pump on it that sticks out into the skirting. how could i change it or fabricate it to accomadate this? thanks. patrick, kirkwood, ill

Re(1): 88 diesel side panels

IP: 67.2.249.221 Posted on January 24, 2005 at 01:00:21 AM by Larry Harsin The 88 diesel uses the same side panel as the gas. The 88 series tractor does not have that little box like the 77 diesel does. On the 88, it is wider in the first place, so the power steering pump shouldn't stick out either. Larry


270 Starter Issues

IP: 64.33.183.226 Posted on January 22, 2005 at 09:21:34 PM by Frank

This is actually two questions in one. First off I have a white 2-70 D that wont start. She's staring hard(normal in a wisconsin winter), but during the past two weeks the old batteries froze, so I repaced the batteries with two new 1000cca batteries. This still didn't help. It started once and now it will not turn over at all. All of the connections are good, the lights turn on bright, and it has a newer key switch. Ive even tried to jump start her with a screwdriver and i can hardly get a spark. I was wondering if its possibly the starter, and if so, will a 1855 D starter fit?? I have a 1730QA loader on it and i guess im trying to cover all by bases before I tear two tractors apart. Thanks for your help in advance.

Re(1): 270 Starter Issues

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 23, 2005 at 03:20:53 AM by Ron

Put your DMM on 12VDC scale. Connect it to an engine ground and the post on the starter solenoid. Turn the key to "start". If you don't see 12v, you have a wiring problem. If you see 12v but the solenoid doesn't "click", it's bad. If your hear a "click", the starter is bad, probably the brushes. NAPA sells the correct replacement starter; you match starters up by their numbers. Just because one "fits", doesn't mean it will work. Most likely there are shops that rebuild starters in your phone book; brush replacement is pretty cheap.

Re(2): 270 Starter Issues

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on January 23, 2005 at 08:59:45 AM by Larry Harsin I would agree with Ron. Check the cables first. Then, I would take the starter to a repair shop and have it checked out. Larry

Re(3): 270 Starter Issues

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on January 26, 2005 at 00:33:55 AM by j ulmer

this may seem redundant, but even though your lights are bright and the connections clean, the much greater amperage required by the starting motor could drop your received voltage if your cables are older and have had that creeping corrosion (with white oxidation stuff) which has gone down past the ends under the cables insulation and you don't see obvious corrosion, but due to acid fumes venting from the batteries they have "rusted away" internally leaving only a small percentage of the copper wires in size or intact. I had some on a machine that didn't look swollen or anything, but after checking everything else, we cut back the insulation on the cables and there was just a powdery mess. Weakened wires then broke apart from vibration and movement. Lots of luck.


1850 diesel

IP: 4.139.12.123 Posted on January 22, 2005 at 08:42:17 PM by mike

larry,enjoy your website.recently bought a 1850 diesel perkins that has about1900 hrs on it. iput it on feed grinder and under load while grindingat about 1600rpms rpms will float up 300 or so for 5seconds then drop back. tractor has done little work before i bought it so naturally ihave already serviced and put fuel conditioner in tank.other than that tractor seems fine any ideas on remedy would gladly be taken thanks

Re(1): 1850 diesel

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on January 23, 2005 at 08:54:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say you have an air leak somewhere in the fuel system. I would check for air leaks on the final fuel filter first. Larry


770 and 950

IP: 69.54.204.188 Posted on January 22, 2005 at 07:24:43 PM by Mike Pylman

Larry, what are the horse power ratings for a 770 and a 950?

Re(1): 770 and 950

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on January 22, 2005 at 07:47:14 PM by Larry Harsin

The 770 = 50 HP. The 950 between 65 & 70. Larry


spare parts

IP: 212.235.53.75 Posted on January 22, 2005 at 06:02:54 AM by lowenthal amos

help i am restoring an 550 oliver tractor and need parts serial no 119595-519 can i use the orginal spare part book? shipment is to an address in new york u.s.a payment by credit card visa

100 611-a isolator 5 - 100 126-a element oil filter 1 - 1k-126 seal crankshaft front 2 - 1ks-129 seal crankshaft rear 2 - 609 689-an element with gasket 1 - 1e-930 seal brake pedal 4 - 1011 431-aa emblem steering wheel 1 - 1e-3377 seal hydraulic cross shaft 2 - 101 430-a emblem front plastic 2 - workshop manuel diesel

Re(1): spare parts

IP: 67.2.249.236 Posted on January 22, 2005 at 09:12:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will ship these parts to you. Larry


loader

IP: 24.153.118.28 Posted on January 20, 2005 at 07:09:16 PM by Adam

We just bought a front end loader made by oliver and was wandering if you had an pics of an oliver with one on or new anything about the oliver front end loader? thanks Adam

Re(1): loader

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 21, 2005 at 06:58:58 AM by Ron

Oliver never made loaders. Some dealers bought locally made loaders, painted them green, and sold them with the tractor. Some people also get confused when then see "Oliver 1610 loader", for example. They were made by Schwartz. Lull and Ware both made industrial loaders for Oliver tractors. This is covered in "Oliver Farm Tractors" by Herb Morrell and Jeff Hackett. Don't know if the book is still in print or not.

Re(2): loader

IP: 67.2.249.236 Posted on January 21, 2005 at 07:18:55 AM by Larry Harsin

In earlier days, Oliver did build a few loaders at Springfield and Shelbyville. You didn't say what number loader that you have. There are pictures of them in the last issue (issue # 5) of Oliver Heritage Magazine. It shows the loaders made by Schwartz, Lull, Ware and Oliver. You can subscribe to this magazine at www.oliverinformation.com To get a copy of this issue, you may have to email Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry


1937 Oliver 70 - need help!!

IP: 4.29.214.105 Posted on January 19, 2005 at 10:32:40 PM by Trisha Heppner

Hi, I have a 1937 Oliver 70 standard, that runs great, and we still use, but I'm trying to figure out what exactly it is. I've been told that it might be an Airport 25, and other people say it looks like an Orchard model. Can you tell me how to tell them apart? Or where I could find pictures of an airport 25 and an orchard model? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Trisha

Re(1): 1937 Oliver 70 - need help!!

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on January 20, 2005 at 00:20:43 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number tag on the engine will tell you what it is. If the tractor is an industrial, the serial numbers will begin with a 4. The airports were numbered with the standards and they begin with a 3. The big green book written by C.H. Wendel, titled "Oliver Hart Parr", shows some pictures of the different versions of the 70. You can get a copy of the book from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net The book costs approximately $40. Larry


PTO clutch question

IP: 64.85.220.47 Posted on January 19, 2005 at 08:22:34 PM by Jason Epperson

I am putting the PTO clutch back together on my Old style 88. I was wondering what the thickness of the friction plates should be? I have an IT manual but it doesn't say anything about disc measurements. Mine measure from .186 to .192 thick. Also my shim packs are all in a pile and was wondering where I should start with them? Than you in advance.

Re(1): PTO clutch question

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on January 20, 2005 at 00:13:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Count your shims out into 3 piles. Then install them in the 3 places in your PTO and go from there. I think the measurments of the disc sound o.k. If the plates aren't cracked and appear o.k., I'd go ahead and use them. Larry


oliver 4wd 1900 diesel 1960,s

IP: 64.135.219.135 Posted on January 17, 2005 at 11:32:21 PM by mark

i am looking ata 1900 oliver with mechanical front drive.--what price range are these and what would you suggest i check out at inspection--thanks in advance---mark HPOCA member

Re(1): oliver 4wd 1900 diesel 1960,s

IP: 67.2.248.86 Posted on January 18, 2005 at 01:39:51 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing, check for oil leaks on the unit. Check out the operation of the unit - see if it drives o.k. etc. Look for worn tie rod ends on the steering cylinders. You might want to jack up each side and check for looseness in the pivots. Check to see that the drop box is not loose where it mounts to the transmission. It's hard to say price range. It depends so much on condition. Also, I havn't seen many of these sell in the last couple of years. Check price range with Kurt Aumman. www.aumannauctions.com Larry

Re(2): oliver 4wd 1900 diesel 1960,s

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 18, 2005 at 09:28:57 AM by Ron If you place an ad here you might find one... http://www.oliverinformation.com/


hay crimper

IP: 66.11.110.152 Posted on January 17, 2005 at 07:10:35 PM by mike

I have a 35 or 37 crimper that the gear box went out of it, I was woundering if I can still get parts for it or a new gear box for it?

Re(1): hay crimper

IP: 67.2.248.86 Posted on January 18, 2005 at 01:31:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1755 throttle

IP: 207.170.23.53 Posted on January 17, 2005 at 02:39:08 PM by Dave

Larry, I have a 1755 diesel with a throttle lever that drifts out of position especially during road travel. Is there a way to tighten this linkage up so it stays in place? Thanks in advance

Re(1): 1755 throttle

IP: 67.2.248.86 Posted on January 18, 2005 at 01:23:50 AM by Larry

Harsin There is an adjustment under the fuel tank, back on the pivot. You can adjust it up here. Larry


1370 white tractor engine overhaul

IP: 142.161.204.137 Posted on January 16, 2005 at 11:18:29 PM by dori

timing marks on the gears in the front cover

Re(1): 1370 white tractor

engine overhaul IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on January 17, 2005 at 04:46:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to get a Shop Manual from Charles City. Email the Museum: fchs@fiai.net Larry


60 RC Oliver

IP: 67.164.2.177 Posted on January 14, 2005 at 06:36:51 PM by Will Hill

I just became owner, and It Started but the clutch will not engage, (sitting to long) any Ideas before I diaasemble

Re(1): 60 RC Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.102 Posted on January 15, 2005 at 09:19:33 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to take it apart and see what is wrong with it. Larry

Re(2): 60 RC Oliver

IP: 67.164.2.177 Posted on January 15, 2005 at 12:15:58 PM by Will Hill

Thanks Larry I will do that and let you know


engine s/n's

IP: 4.254.225.177 Posted on January 14, 2005 at 02:55:31 AM by corey

Just got a 53' 77 RC and I don't think tractor has original engine, suspect engine is out of S77. Is there a specific engine s/n range for each model?

Re(1): engine s/n's

IP: 67.2.248.143 Posted on January 14, 2005 at 09:09:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Most of the fleetline 77's had M100 or M100A blocks. The S77's had M100C on the blocks. These are casting numbers. These are not the tractor's serial number. Larry


880 gas tank

IP: 198.140.195.254 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:08:15 PM by joe wheeler

I have a 59 Oliver 880 that I need to clean the gas tank on. How do I go about doing that? Also, I see a product on Yesterday's Tractors that you can buy to coat the inside of the tank. Does this really work?

Re(1): 880 gas tank

IP: 67.2.240.173 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:21:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I would take it off and take it to a car wash and use hot soapy water and clean it. Then let it set empty in a warm place; have the fuel strainer out and it will dry out. I havn't used the coating. I have read articles about it and it sounds like it might be worth using it. Larry

Re(2): 880 gas tank

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:55:08 PM by Ron

The radiator shop here does a two step deal where they slosh a chemical around in the tank and then slosh a sealer around in it. It's a permanent repair.

Re(3): 880 gas

tank IP: 65.6.20.90 Posted on January 13, 2005 at 11:30:55 PM by George

Put the tank on something to turn it slowly and put marbles or rocks in. Turn it for a day or so and then blow the dust out, put the coating in and plug holes and turn it again, stops any later need for cleaning again.

Re(4): 880 gas tank

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 14, 2005 at 08:24:26 AM by Ron

That will destroy the tank. They are coated on the inside with "terne metal". It's very soft, being made from lead, tin, and antimony. It's purpose is to keep water from contacting the steel tank. Using rocks will also beat the tank seams apart. The coatings used today are intened to be used over the terne metal. That's why they use the chemical cleaner as the first step.

Re(5): 880 gas

tank IP: 65.6.36.70 Posted on January 15, 2005 at 03:38:28 PM by George

Maybe so, but after 25 tanks and no failures I feel fairly confident in what I have done.

Re(6): 880 gas tank

IP: 69.179.34.204 Posted on January 16, 2005 at 07:24:43 AM by Ron

Glad you had success. The folks I know that have tried it each ended up replacing their tanks at a cost far greater than the $60 or so it costs to do the two step cleaner/sealer.


1655 Diesel

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:02:21 PM by Bill Fleck

Larry I was wondering,we are getting new mains and rod bearings.With 4800 hrs. would we be wise to put in a new oil pump while we are in there. Thanks again for all of the help. Billybob-Ia.

Re(1): 1655 Diesel

IP: 67.2.240.173 Posted on January 12, 2005 at 08:18:09 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don' t think you need to do that. I think it will be fine. Larry


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