1655 Diesel head gasket

IP: 68.220.96.168 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 11:37:15 PM by Cleon Couey

Got a fuel leak just above and behind the starter. No fuel dripping from the fuel lines. None coming from the injectors.Just wet up against the block. Looks just like it's coming from between the head and the block.Could this be coming from the head gasket?

Re(1): 1655 Diesel head gasket

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 31, 2009 at 07:37:46 AM by Larry Harsin

It's possible. You could have a leaky exhaust gasket. If you have been using it for light work, it might just be unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust. I think I'd try doing some work with it and see how it acts before I started tearing into it. Larry

Oliver 77 clutch

IP: 97.87.128.90 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 01:17:01 PM by Jeffrey Sharp

I have a 1950 Oliver 77 that needed a clutch replacement. I want to order the replacement before I tear into it. I burned it out tractor pulling. Should I order the 9.25 or will the 10 inch one fit? Will the flywheel need to be replaced or machined?

Re(1): Oliver 77 clutch

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 10:59:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You can put a 10" clutch in there. It will bolt right in. After you take a look at it, you may have to have it machined. Larry

1450 diesel

IP: 12.175.230.58 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 12:27:11 PM by Bob Fields

My starter does not mesh with the flywheel teeth do they make a different gear for this tractor the starter is a replacement starter,and it came with the tractor, the gears don't seem to match, How do I know if I have the right starter? and where can I get the right starter?

Re(1): 1450 diesel

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 10:56:29 PM by Larry Harsin

You should get a Parts Manual for that tractor, from the museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099 It will tell you what starter that tractor requires. You could also check with Maibach Tractor also. 800-808-9934. You probably know that that tractor was built for Oliver in Italy, by Fiat. Larry

Super 55 Diesel PTO

IP: 74.1.128.135 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 11:57:05 AM by Bruce Smith

I have a super55 Diesel that I have returned to running condition after 10 years of sitting in a field. When running the Pto spins continuously. How do I engage or disengage the Pto? There is a lever / shift arm to the right of the hydrolic control, that I think is the Pto control. It operates a lever into the transmission that must control it or something elce ? The only adjustment I could find is a stop bolt that stops the rearward motion of the lever / shift arm.

Re(1): Super 55 Diesel PTO

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 06:48:54 PM by Larry K

I hope your enjoy your Super 55 Diesel as much as I do mine. When you have the PTO under load does it still turn? If you get a service Manual you will learn how to take the plate under the tractor off and adjust the PTO clutch. If the tractor sat for a long time that clutch could be dirty or the clutch disks broken causing the clutch to lock. Then you will need to Z split the tractor and either clean or replace the clutch disks.

Re(2): Super 55 Diesel PTO

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 10:52:31 PM by Larry Harsin

They tend to get oil in the plates and this makes them run all the time. They tend to get that way when they have set for a time. They are old and the seals get weak. There are 3 drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission housing where you should check for water in the gear oil. It is this gear oil that gets into the PTO clutch. You will have to do a Z split to service the engine or the PTO clutch. If you look back a question or so, on this website, I explained the process for doing the Z split. You should get an Operator's Manual and it will tell you how to adjust it and work on it. An I&T Service Manual would be helpful also. You can get these manuals from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(3): Super 55 Diesel PTO

IP: 74.1.128.135 Posted on February 3, 2009 at 12:21:24 PM by Bruce

Thanks for the input. I haven't had a chance to put the PTO under load yet. It was missing the PTO shaft which has been ordered. I have an old mower that I can hook up and give the unit a try. Will clean off the underside and look for the drain plugs and plate that you mentioned. Bruce

Oliver 1465 Hydraulics

IP: 216.74.237.154 Posted on January 29, 2009 at 08:51:18 AM by Jason Silva

Whenever i first start the tractor the hydraulic lift works fine but after moving it up and down a few times it starts to raise very slow with no lifting capacity. Once it finally does lift it holds weight just fine. The hydraulic fluid did have water in but i have changed it and cleaned the filter. My guess was that maybe something in the reservoir is getting sucked into the suction line to the filter. Any advice i can get would be great. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 1465 Hydraulics

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 05:36:20 AM by Larry Harsin

You saying that it works good when it is cold and gets weak when it gets warmed up, tells me that there is a good chance you have a worn pump. If something is getting sucked into the suction line to the filter, it wouldn't work when it was cold. My experience has been that it would be a worn pump. Larry

SERIAL NUMBER

IP: 71.86.17.234 Posted on January 28, 2009 at 06:10:06 PM by THOMAS

I FOUND AN OLIVER IN A BARN THAT I CAN PURCHASE. THE HOOD SAYS DIESEL BUT IT HAS A GAS MOTOR. I HAVE THE MODEL NUMBER AND SERIAL NUMBER. WHERE DO I GO TO FIND OUT INFO ON THIS TRACTOR. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP TJ BRIDGES

Re(1): SERIAL NUMBER

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 28, 2009 at 09:04:42 PM by Larry Harsin

If you would tell us the model Oliver and the serial number, we can tell you what year it was built. Then, possibly, we can tell you more about this tractor. Larry

Re(2): SERIAL NUMBER

IP: 71.86.17.234 Posted on January 29, 2009 at 08:36:20 PM by THOMAS BRIDGES

MODEL#-355-22102 SERIAL # 206 441 504 THANK YOU VERY MUCH ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT.

Re(3): SERIAL NUMBER

IP: 75.105.57.110 Posted on January 30, 2009 at 10:43:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor is a 1550 built in 1968. You told us that it said diesel on the hood, but the motor was gas. Well, one of them has been changed. Either they have replaced the hood or they have switched the engine at some time or other. It has 53 hp. It weighs 6367 lbs. without fluid in the tires. They were built from 1965 - 1969. Larry

550 clutch replacement

IP: 70.126.118.111 Posted on January 27, 2009 at 10:38:16 AM by bill stephens

What way do you recommend replacing the clutch. I'm told you should split the tractor but the service manual it says pulling the engine is the preferred way. Also what type oil should be used in the rear end - I'm getting conflicting information on that too. thanks again

Re(1): 550 clutch replacement

IP: 75.104.188.122 Posted on January 27, 2009 at 05:06:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Pulling the engine is not the way to do a 550. You will want to do a "Z" split. You will have to put jack stands just ahead of the flywheel on the engine frame rails, to hold the front half up. When you are placing these jack stands, jack up the front of the tractor a little bit, so that you can set your jack stands. While doing this, take the 2, 5/8" bolts out on the wishbone arms on the front axle. Use a floor jack on the rear half, so you can roll it back to get at the clutch. The wishbones will roll back with the rear of the tractor. Unbolt the front frame where it is bolted to the clutch housing. There are 4, 5/8" bolts on the frame. Underneath by the drain plug are some 1/4" stove bolts that hold a little tin pan in there. They will have to be removed. This tractor splits in a "Z". You go back where the top and bottom halves of the clutch housing are bolted together and unbolt them. If your tractor has lights, you will have to disconnect the lights wire. This will allow you to get in there and repair the clutch.You will have to get the parts from AGCO. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. in Sheldon IA 800-320-6224 and he will ship them to you. Larry

pto leak

IP: 68.154.1.40 Posted on January 26, 2009 at 02:51:43 PM by Cleon Couey

Tried to remove pto output shaft from 1655 today.Repair manual says remove lock ring and pull shaft and bearing assembly from the housing. Removed the lock ring but shaft won't pull out.Feels like its stuck or hitting something.Any thoughts?

Re(1): pto leak

IP: 75.104.188.122 Posted on January 26, 2009 at 08:22:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The way the Shop Manual says, is t he way it is done. It might be a little tough, but it will come out of there. That bearing has turned in that housing enough that it wants to stay in there and you are going to have to pull it out. You could lock on a PTO shaft, then you will have something to hit against so you can get it out of there. Larry

Re(2): pto leak

IP: 76.208.15.96 Posted on January 26, 2009 at 05:32:09 PM by 90%ret'd

If it is a dual speed unit try rotatig the shaft while pulling on it, it has to have the splines lined up to slide out.

550 oil leak

IP: 75.104.220.130 Posted on January 26, 2009 at 07:47:37 AM by Tommy

Larry my 550 has been sitting up for about 6 months it ran fine when I parked it, now I'm getting oil out of the exhaust pipe, the tube coming out of the valve cover is clear the tractor starts as soon as you hit the starter so I think the the rings are in good shape. could it be the seals around the valve's.

Re(1): 550 oil leak

IP: 75.104.188.122 Posted on January 26, 2009 at 08:14:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the tractor and put it to work and see what it does. I can't think there is too much wrong....... it probably just needs to do some work. After you get that tractor warmed up and worked a bit, you should change the oil. Larry

770 Seat bushings

IP: 99.196.171.234 Posted on January 25, 2009 at 03:01:05 PM by danoWI

Larry, I have a late 770 with the plastic grill and flat top fenders. The seat is getting a little loose and I was wondering if the bushings are available to rebuild it. If so would you have the contact information for a good source.

Re(1): 770 Seat bushings

IP: 75.104.188.122 Posted on January 25, 2009 at 05:02:59 PM by Larry Harsin

That grill is fiberglass. For the seat bushings, call Korves Bros. Oliver 618-939-6681 Website: www.korvesoliver.com Larry

OLIVER 500 DIESEL

IP: 68.226.213.175 Posted on January 25, 2009 at 10:16:53 AM by nick bailey

WE HAVE AN OLD OLIVER 500 DIESEL, I UNDERSTAND THIS MACHINE TO BE A DAVID BROWN 850 DRESSED UP LIKE AN OLIVER....AT ANY RATE ITS LIKE PART OF OUR FAMILY, ITS IN GOOD SHAPE BUT WE ARE REPLACING HER....I WANT TO HAVE IT RESTORED, WHO IF ANYONE DO YOU ALL RECOMEND AND ARE THERE PARTS AVAILABLE FOR SUCH AN UNDERTAKING?????

Re(1): OLIVER 500 DIESEL

IP: 75.104.188.122 Posted on January 25, 2009 at 05:00:40 PM by Larry Harsin

You didn't say where you are........ I don't know who to recommend. Some parts can be obtained from Case/IH as they have been affiliated with David Brown. Check with them to see what is available. You could also check with Maibach Tractor in Creston OH 800-808-9934 or Ag Parts First in Wooster OH 866-264-9720. See what they have for parts. Larry

trans input seal

IP: 207.162.169.51 Posted on January 23, 2009 at 11:09:15 AM by Tommy

I have the motor out of my 77 and wanted to replace the input seal. I was wondering if I had to take off the belt pulley assembly to get to the seal or would it just slide off the shaft? It was leaking and thought now was the time to fix it. Thanks, Tommy

Re(1): trans input seal

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 23, 2009 at 09:46:21 PM by Larry Harsin

The belt pulley housing has to be removed from the tractor before you can install that seal. Larry

Rod bearing bolts

IP: 71.238.115.32 Posted on January 22, 2009 at 08:28:03 PM by dale

I am rebuilding the engine of our 2-70. should I change the rod bearing cap bolts? been told this is a good idea but have never done this with other engines.

Re(1): rod bearing bolts

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 23, 2009 at 09:44:57 PM by Larry Harsin

It is your judgement call. If you feel that the bolts have been damaged in some way, then I would consider changing them. However, I have learned that they are $23 each. I would talk to the machinist that is doing the reconditioning on the rods and go by what he says. Larry

oliver 45-0033?

IP: 70.126.118.111 Posted on January 21, 2009 at 12:02:26 PM by bill stephens

I have recently pick up an oliver tractor. The id plate says its a model 45-0033 ser# 135 853 - 519 I was trying to find manuals for it but can't seem to get any where using that model number the tractor looks like a 550. Is that what it is?? Where would you recommend I purchase service and operating manual? Thanks

Re(1): oliver 45-0033?

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 21, 2009 at 09:40:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor is a 1963 Oliver 550. You can get all the Manuals from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. They have Operator's Manual, Service Manual and Parts Manual. Larry

pto leak

IP: 68.154.16.156 Posted on January 20, 2009 at 06:50:42 AM by Cleon Couey

Got a pretty serious leak coming from around the pto shaft of my 1655. What could this be?

Re(1): pto leak

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 20, 2009 at 07:58:57 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be an O ring around the bearing or the bearing itself could be leaking. This is a common problem on the 1650 and the 1655. Larry

Oliver

IP: 216.74.237.154 Posted on January 18, 2009 at 11:45:04 AM by James

I have just bought a 1973 oliver model 1465 with the fiat motor. It didnt come with an owners manual and I wanted to know what kind of fluid to put in the oil reservoir on the injector pump and the governor.

Re(1): Oliver

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 18, 2009 at 08:28:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Use regular 15-40 motor oil in the engine. Larry

info request

IP: 72.28.249.28 Posted on January 18, 2009 at 11:20:00 AM by Robin

Larry ... I am restoring an oliver 88 ... It has a spec.# 18-0075 and a serial# 35797-801 on the tag under the dash on the left hand side .... Can you tell me anything about this tractor ... Thanks

Re(1): info request

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 18, 2009 at 08:25:34 PM by Larry Harsin

It was built in 1953. Check with the museum in Charles City and see if they have a Build Card for it. If they do, they will tell you a lot about your tractor, even the original dealership who sold it. The Build Card is an old computer punch card. The computer followed your tractor down the assembly line and they punched the card every time something was put into the tractor. There is a $20 charge for this service. 641-228-1099. Larry

ld Oliver industrial?

IP: 99.196.169.149 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 12:25:32 PM by James Ordal

Serial # 162-959-083 with heavy duty loader-backhoe. Model 55-7121. Has 550 style upper radiator shroud. Anyone have a lead on any literature or manuals for what seems to be an industrial? Has green paint under serial plate.

Re(1): ld Oliver industrial?

IP: 75.104.188.52 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 07:46:37 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a 550 Industrial built in 1965. Call the Museum in Charles City IA and you can get an Operator's Manual for it. They also have Parts Manual and Service Manual. If the loader-backhoe is Oliver brand, they will have manuals for them. You should have the serial number for these things as well as the tractor before you call them. There should be a tag on them somewhere that will tell their serial number. 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 1465

IP: 216.74.237.154 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 10:45:31 AM by Jason

I was wondering what kind of fluid to put in the power steering reservoir on a 1973 oliver 1465. Also what motor oil do you recomend for the engine.

Re(1): Oliver 1465

IP: 75.104.188.52 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 07:41:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Power steering fluid -- ATF would work. For the motor oil, I use 15-40. Rotella would be a good one. Larry

'67 1850 gas leak

IP: 173.23.134.75 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 02:01:23 AM by Brandon Stuckey

Started my 1850 up yesterday and had to pull the choke all the way to get it started(cold weather in Illinois). After it had run for a short time I noticed a steady trail of gas down the left side of the engine block just behind the starter. What would cause this? Bad gaskets? Too much fuel? I shut it down before there was any damage, but I would like to know what it will take to fix this problem.

Re(1): '67 1850 gas leak

IP: 75.104.188.52 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 06:41:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Two different things come to mind. If it has a spark plug that is bad and not hitting on one cylinder, that could cause this. Is the crankcase over full. If so, you could have a fuel pump diaphragm that is cracked and letting fuel down into the engine crankcase. These are 2 possibilities. I wouldn't start replacing manifold gaskets yet. Larry

oil pump repair kit

IP: 65.81.161.154 Posted on January 16, 2009 at 07:37:20 PM by Cleon Couey

Do you know of any oil pump repair kits for Oliver?

Re(1): oil pump repair kit

IP: 75.104.188.52 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 06:32:57 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You'll have to order the parts separately. Larry

power booster ?

IP: 205.188.116.77 Posted on January 16, 2009 at 05:15:25 PM by tractor poperatzi

hello just have question about the power booster in my 64' 770. when the engine starts to lug down significantly I pull the lever back to put the tractor in low range and before it engages (or as it is engaging) the tractor stops for only a secant until it engages then after it is in low it go's again. I would like to know if something is out of adjustment or broken or is this just how it is? It only stops the tractor wail under load. could it be slack in the gears or oil on the clutches ? thanks for your time Dave

Re(1): power booster ?

IP: 75.104.188.52 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 06:31:06 AM by Larry Harsin

If there is a hesitation, where the tractor actually stops, I would quit using the tractor in that manner. The sprag clutch is worn and not working properly. I would quit shifting it on the go, from high to low. You can use it otherwise, but shifting on the go might tear something up. This is if the hesitation actually stops the tractor for a few seconds. Larry

Re(2): power booster ?

IP: 205.188.117.207 Posted on January 17, 2009 at 07:39:52 AM by tractor poperatzi

That is exactly what it is doing. Do you know where I may get parts for the sprag clutch? also just a related question. Is the pto clutch the same as the power booster clutch? they look similar. Thanks again for your time Dave

Re(3): power booster ?

IP: 75.104.189.198 Posted on January 23, 2009 at 09:51:14 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a sprag clutch from your local AGCO Dealer or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 and have him ship one to you. The PTO clutch and the power booster clutch are similar, but they are different. They are made by the same company. Larry

Oliver 550

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 04:41:50 PM by Tommy

Larry I started restoring this tractor about 3 months ago it was running fine. I replaced the fuel filters, installed new injectors. I started priming the fuel system and the plunger pump would spray fuel out around the stem, however it would build up pressure, I have fuel all the way to the injector pump but I'm not getting any at the injectors when I try to bleed them off, I turned the motor over for about 5 minutes all together with the line cracked open at the big nut on the injector. Could the pump have gone bad? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 75.104.189.102 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 11:31:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Anything is possible. Check the little pressure regulating plunger in the transfer pump, where the fuel goes in. That might be sticking. It is a little spring loaded piston. Is this a Bosch or a RoosaMaster? If it is a RoosaMaster, the metering valve may be sticky and you'll have to take the 3 screws out that hold the cap on the pump. You'll also have to disconnect the return line from the top of the pump. The metering valve is at the back of the opening, down in there, you'll see the linkage. See if it is stuck. If it is not turning, put some WD 40 on it and use a little screw driver or something and see if you can get it to work. If you can't get it to work, you may have to remove the pump and take it to a pump shop. Larry

66 diesel engine

IP: 12.148.198.154 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 04:27:19 PM by Mike Herms

I am rebuilding the engine for my 66 diesel and I have a couple of questions. First what is the correct torque for the pre cup plugs that hold the chambers into the cylinder head? second What is the correct torque for the oil pump retaining cap screw? This is a 3/8 x 16 bolt and the normal torque shold be about 32 foot pounds, but I have a gap of about .100" in between the oil pump mount tab and the recessed area of the block. My oil pump mounts in flush with the machined area of the block it is just the spot where the bolt goes through that is recessed. I am worried that i will break off the mounting tab if i tighen this up. I am working with a I T manual, and they do not list torques for either of these.

Re(1): 66 diesel engine

IP: 75.104.189.102 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 11:18:19 PM by Larry Harsin

The torque for the pre cup plugs is approx. 60 lbs. The oil pump - that is the way it is made and DO NOT OVER TORQUE THAT. You can break that as you suspect. That gap is supposed to be there. 30 - 32 lbs is about right on the torque. Larry

Re(2): 66 diesel engine

IP: 12.148.198.154 Posted on January 19, 2009 at 04:53:47 PM by Mike Herms

I was in the process of torquing the pump down, I had my wrench set at 20 foot pounds and I was watching the pump. I was not even to the 20 foot pounds when I seen the crack open up. I had looked in the Oliver 66 parts book to see if I needed a washer or something in that gap. the parts book shows nothing there. could I braze or weld the crack or do I need to search for a replacement pump? can I or should I make a washer to go into the gap?

Re(3): 66 diesel engine

IP: 75.104.161.72 Posted on February 6, 2009 at 05:47:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I think that was probably cracked before you started on it and it just showed up. I don't think you ca fix it with brazing. You'll have to get a different pump. Larry

1650 hydraulics

IP: 72.251.63.26 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 08:31:20 AM by corre

I recently put loader on mine and once in a while when lowering the loader or raising the bucket tips too or if i tip bucket the loader goes up what should I look for it seems to be really slow at these times thanks for any information.

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.189.102 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 11:14:11 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have something going wrong with a coupler or it could be some foreign material that is affecting it. I'd remove the hydraulic filter from the tractor and see if you can see some pieces of rubber or pieces of an O ring or something like parts of a piston packing or something like that. If you see nothing in there, you might see if there is a difference if you change the hoses around on the quick couplers. Larry

engine swap

IP: 216.215.13.252 Posted on January 13, 2009 at 12:25:57 PM by Ron Roduner

Larry, I have 2255 oliver tractor I would like to replace, my 3150 with 3208 engine with a turbo which I have, are there any modifications I need make before placing into tractor? thanks, Ron

Re(1): engine swap

IP: 75.104.189.102 Posted on January 14, 2009 at 06:47:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I haven't done this swap. The last 2255's had the 3208 engine. I don't think there were any major changes. Larry

1600 block governor bushing

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on January 12, 2009 at 07:11:44 PM by Noel Putman

Larry, I got a new block for the 1600. It is a diesel block and mine is a gas but it is the same casting number. Anyway I was pulling components out of the old block to install in the new and I can not get the brass governor bushing out of the old block. Does that come out or do I need a new one. Can I just tap a new one in or does it need pressed in?

Re(1): 1600 block governor bushing

IP: 75.104.161.200 Posted on January 13, 2009 at 06:40:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd get a new one. You can install it yourself with a hammer and a suitable driver (something like a socket or something to hold the bushing with.) Do not drive the bushing in too far. A lot of these new bushings are a different style and are one piece brass. The last ones that I have gotten have instructions with them. These new bushings do not use a brass thrust washer. The depth that that bushing sets in the block is the same as the old bushing with the thrust washer. I mean it will have the same protrusion out of the block. Larry

oliver 60

IP: 142.154.164.66 Posted on January 12, 2009 at 10:15:32 AM by jimmy

Is #1 piston on gear end or pully end ? and how do I know if it is on intake or exhaust stroke so I can set tappets

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.161.200 Posted on January 12, 2009 at 05:42:35 PM by Larry Harsin

#1 is at the pulley end and #4 is at the flywheel end. So you can set #1, you have to watch the valves on #4. Turn it and watch the exhaust close and the intake just starts to open. Then, you are on Top Dead Center #1. Set #1 and turn it half a turn and set #2, then turn it half a turn and set #4, then turn it half a turn and set #3, and you are done. The firing order is 1-2-4-3. Larry

pto shaft plug

IP: 97.112.105.75 Posted on January 11, 2009 at 07:49:29 PM by scott

can anyone tell me how long the plug behind the pto shaft is on an 1800 and are they all the same

Re(1): pto shaft plug

IP: 75.104.161.200 Posted on January 12, 2009 at 07:43:51 AM by Larry Harsin

The plug on the 1800 is approx. 1 1/4 inch long. The ones on the 50's series is longer. Tom at O'Brien will have a plug. 800-320-6224. Larry

1655 engine bearings

IP: 68.154.20.145 Posted on January 9, 2009 at 11:56:40 PM by Cleon Couey

New main and rod bearings came in the other day. Rod bearings have three oil holes instead of one as the old ones did. Everything else looks identical.Why?

Re(1): 1655 engine bearings

IP: 75.105.61.16 Posted on January 10, 2009 at 04:13:47 PM by Larry Harsin

They are fine. There are 2 different styles. I am sure they will be o.k. Larry

1850 diesel clutch replacement

IP: 70.226.239.128 Posted on January 9, 2009 at 11:20:24 PM by Jamie Hahn

I am helping a friend who does not have internet capability. We are working on a 1963 1850 Oliver with a Perkins engine that has a 13" clutch. When we took the torque off the back of the engine, the clutch was completely shattered and now that we have the new clutch and pressure plate we are not sure which way the clutch goes in. Do the knuckles on the clutch go toward the engine or toward you as you are putting it together?

Re(1): 1850 diesel clutch replacement

IP: 97.112.105.75 Posted on January 11, 2009 at 08:00:06 PM by scott

the clutch disc is installed with the widest flange hub toward the rear

Serial no. info

IP: 76.8.96.133 Posted on January 9, 2009 at 08:12:02 PM by Dwight Tyndall

my super 55 s.n.is 35-056-518.What year is it and what do the no.s mean?Also,the pto is slipping some in high grass bush-hogging.Is it adjustable?

Re(1): Serial no. info

IP: 75.105.61.16 Posted on January 9, 2009 at 08:17:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Serial number 35056 was built in 1956. The 518 is a code for the transmission. I don't know what those numbers mean other than that. Larry

550 Oliver

IP: 67.235.183.107 Posted on January 9, 2009 at 05:56:15 PM by Jerrold

Could you tell me what oil goes in the lift of a 550 Oliver? It seem like I read a repair manual a while ago that said it was 10W 30.

550 Oliver

IP: 75.105.61.16 Posted on January 9, 2009 at 08:15:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I use a med non-foaming hydraulic oil that is available at your farm supply store. 10w 30 will work, but I'd rather use a non-foaming hydraulic oil rather than a motor oil. Larry

1850 valve cover

IP: 69.27.192.147 Posted on January 8, 2009 at 09:35:31 PM by Marty

Larry I'am working on a 1850 diesel and need to know another source for a valve cover gasket[has the steel cover] priced one from AGCO and it just about knocked me over with there price believe it or not it was just a little over $100.00 no kidding for a valve cover gasket,thats why i need some advice as to where to find one.

Re(1): 1850 valve cover

IP: 75.105.61.16 Posted on January 8, 2009 at 09:52:08 PM by Larry Harsin

That gasket is made of a special material and it is very expensive. But, you need it or it will leak. Check with Ag Parts First and see what they charge for one. 866-264-9720. Larry

Re(2): 1850 valve cover

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on January 10, 2009 at 03:25:43 PM by lARRY K

The valve cover gasket and the intake gaskets are critical. On my dad's 1850 diesel we had very few hours on a new tractor when the valve cover gasket leaked and softened the intake gaskets. The engine sucked in dirt and trashed the pistons and sleeves.

Muffler for Oliver 88

IP: 70.88.64.13 Posted on January 7, 2009 at 10:42:04 AM by Jeff

I just purchased an oliver 88 that has a straight pipe with no muffler. I would like to know what the proper muffler would be for this tractor. I've seen some pictures with what I guess is the "OL-4" but then I've also seen some with straight pipes and wondered if they have an underhood muffler. I've come across advertisment for an "OL-2" which looks to fit underhood, but I measure my dead space at just under 10 inches and not sure one would fit. I have a 1953 gas. Thanks.

Re(1): Muffler for Oliver 88

IP: 75.105.61.16 Posted on January 8, 2009 at 06:07:38 AM by Larry Harsin

If you want to keep your tractor original, the OL-4 and OL-2 are the two to choose from. The OL-2 is for the 66 and the 77. The OL-4 is for the 88. I think there would be room under your hood. A lot of those tractors have had holes cut in the hoods to accommodate the straight muffler. If you go back to the original, you are going to have to patch the hood. Larry

Re(2): Muffler for Oliver 88

IP: 70.88.64.13 Posted on January 8, 2009 at 10:23:16 AM by Jeff

My hood has already been hacked up to the point it needs a patch regardless if choose an underhood muffler or an above hood unit. I've found that Korves should be able to provide me with the patch. I'm going with the OL-4 then.

1655 hydralics

IP: 134.129.30.22 Posted on January 5, 2009 at 09:19:54 AM by karl

First thanks for your help! I had the hydralic pump replaced by the local dealership. When I got the tractor home, I could hear the engine labor when the loader lift arms were being let down. the engine did not labor when the arms were being raised. The dealership appears to have solved that problem. But now the loader lift arms move slow on the outside (right) control lever. If I only pull the lever back about half way the loader moves faster. Wide open is about 1/2 speed of what I call normal. then one day the hydralics stopped working. I came back later started the tractor and the hydralics worked but the outside lever was still slow. The inside lever moves the cylinders as fast as the always have. Any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it? The dealership had replaced the quick couplers on the hoses.

Re(1): 1655 hydralics

IP: 75.105.57.228 Posted on January 5, 2009 at 10:07:23 PM by Larry Harsin

The quick couplers could be the problem again. There could be some foreign material getting caught in the quick couplers, like packing material. Also, there could be a problem in one of the interlocks, where the oil goes back into the system. These interlocks are in the top casting below the seat. There could be a broken spring in there or foreign material again, in the interlock. Larry

1600 coolant in oil

IP: 98.228.41.145 Posted on January 4, 2009 at 03:01:28 PM by Noel Putman

Yikes, I have coolant in the oil. Pulled the head and the gasket is intact. Any thoughts? Also what should I torque the bolts in the head and the pivot shaft to? I found 100 lbs for head bolt torque in an earlier answer. Is there any specific torque on the nuts that hold the rocker shaft on? Re(1): 1600 coolant in oil

IP: 75.105.57.228 Posted on January 5, 2009 at 10:02:07 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be an O ring on one of the sleeves in the block. Head bolt torque is 100 ft. lbs. and the rocker arm studs are approx. 25 to 30 ft. lbs. Larry

Re(2): 1600 coolant in oil

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on January 8, 2009 at 02:23:37 PM by Noel Putman

I have a crack between the #5 and #6 cylinder. I assume I need a new block?

Re(3): 1600 coolant in oil

IP: 75.104.188.169 Posted on January 11, 2009 at 06:59:17 AM by Larry Harsin

If the crack is between #5 and 6 on the top deck, that is not crucial, but, if the crack is in the lower area of the block, where the sleeves are sealed. Then, you have big time trouble that will require having the block repaired or replaced. Larry

1600 fuel gauge

IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on January 4, 2009 at 04:16:11 AM by shad speer

I was wondering the best way to find out if i have a bad gauge or a bad sending unit when you turn the tractor on the gauge goes to past full

Re(1): 1600 fuel gauge

IP: 75.105.57.228 Posted on January 5, 2009 at 06:17:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Disconnect the wire to the sending unit and then see how the gauge acts. Larry

1555/1655 Distributor

IP: 204.183.215.225 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 08:03:25 PM by Steve Bowser

We have had trouble with finding a replacement distributor for both models listed above. The Holley is not made anymore, and the replacement ($500+) does not work well. Please help. Thanks.

Re(1): 1555/1655 Distributor

IP: 75.104.182.243 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 11:12:11 PM by Larry Harsin

The Mallory replacement is what we have to work with. I agree that they are harder to work with and they are high priced, but they don't make the Holley anymore. Larry

oliver 60

IP: 142.154.164.99 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 03:27:01 PM by jimmy

1942 OLIVER 60 (i can't see any marking on gears) is there marks on cam shaft gear to line it up with crank shaft gear with #1 piston at T D C

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.182.243 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 11:09:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The letter C is on the cam and the crank gear. When they are lined up, you are at Top Dead Center number 1. Larry

Oliver S99 question

IP: 68.47.32.40 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 02:31:25 PM by JDH

I was looking through a few Oliver Heritage magazines and noticed something. It appears to me that the steering gearboxes are different on the S99 Detroit and the S99 diesel and gas models. The S99 Detroits have a more verical steering shaft position than their brother models. Is this true or is it my eyes? Also, was the same tub used on these 3 models of S99's? Thanks for sharing your years of expertise with me more than once.

Re(1): Oliver S99 question

IP: 4.248.218.35 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 03:47:36 PM by Larry from Maryland

I think its your eyes. The s99 detroit used a completely differant frame specially built for it. The blower on the engine needs lots of room. I think the other 2 used the same frame. Re(2): Oliver S99 question

IP: 75.104.182.243 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 11:07:36 PM by Larry Harsin

It is your eyes. The steering gear sets in there the same on all three. However the tub for the Detroit is different from the other S99's. Larry

1755 hydraulics

IP: 4.88.164.182 Posted on January 2, 2009 at 09:00:00 PM by Chris in Mo.

I have a 1755 that makes an intermittant noise from the hyd pump that gets worse when I use the steering,loader or 3 point. It sounds like air in the system? I openedthe bleed port and no air or fluid came out, andthe hydraulics quit working. When I put my finger over the open port I could feel a slight suction.

Re(1): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 4.248.220.221 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 11:12:05 AM by Larry from Maryland

DO NOT OPEN THE BLEED WHEN THE TRACTOR IS RUNNING .

Re(2): 1755 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.243 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 11:05:04 PM by Larry Harsin

As Larry from MD says, that bleed port should not be open when the tractor is running. When the tractor is not running, open that port to let the air out. Then, make sure there isn't an air leak on the suction side of the pump. Check for loose clamps etc. I'm assuming you put a new filter in it. If you haven't, you should. Also, make sure you are using the proper fluid. Use type 55 from AGCO. That is specifically for that unit. Then, if it is still noisy, get a pressure gauge and plug it into one of the outlets and start the tractor and test the pressure. If it doesn't have at least 2000 lbs of pressure, order some shims for the pressure regulating spool, from AGCO. This spool is the one closest to the wheel on that big valve below the pump. But, don't do this until you have done the other things first. Larry

1265 Oliver

IP: 69.69.182.85 Posted on January 2, 2009 at 07:27:20 PM by J. Mash

Hi Larry.I found a nice 1265 down here in N.C. for sale,and was wondering what your opinion of these tractors are? I know its a Fiat any way you look at it, but that meadow green goes a long way with me! How will it stack up against our 550's?

Re(1): 1265 Oliver IP: 75.104.182.243 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 10:56:12 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1265 in my understanding is a real good tractor. If it is in good condition, you may want to consider it. Of course, in my area, the 550 is easier to get parts for. Larry

oliver 60

IP: 142.154.165.130 Posted on January 2, 2009 at 04:12:22 PM by jimmy

can you tell the torque for all engine bolts thanks jimmy

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.105.57.228 Posted on January 5, 2009 at 06:39:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I checked the book this morning. This is the torque specs for a 60 in foot pounds. The cylinder head 77, the main bearing 77, the rods the book says 52 but I say 45, the manifold 23 the rocker arm brackets is 22. Larry

Oliver row crop 77, oil base for oil filter on block

IP: 96.60.205.141 Posted on January 2, 2009 at 10:23:36 AM by Daniel Wade

Looking for info on where I could find the oil base that fastens to the block, that the oil filter screws into. It's a row crop 77 346990C77D Charles City Iowa, also any idea what year this tractor was built.

Re(1): Oliver row crop 77, oil base for oil filter on block

IP: 75.104.182.243 Posted on January 3, 2009 at 10:52:17 PM by Larry Harsin

I have one, give me a call. 712-362-2966. Your 77 was built in 1951. Larry

1655 engine bearings

IP: 72.146.197.129 Posted on January 1, 2009 at 09:55:38 PM by Cleon Couey

Getting ready to replace rod and mains on 1655 I asked you about back in October.Removed one of each and both are showing lots of copper,especially the mains. Replacements on the way. First time doing this job by myself.What do I need to watch out for?

Re(1): 1655 engine bearings

IP: 75.104.161.152 Posted on January 2, 2009 at 05:57:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Just be sure they are correctly installed. After you install each bearing, make sure that it turns freely. Larry

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