"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - January, 2015 Archives


Oliver 1650 brake seals

IP: 65.0.100.163 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 10:37:11 AM by Aaron Mowry

Oliver 1650 is leaking hyd. fluid out of the right brake. Remove cover and pads. Is there a seal? Tried to remove the brake housing (only found three bolts), but it will not come loose from transmission housing. Need help! Tks, Aaron

Re(1): Oliver 1650 brake seals

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on February 2, 2015 at 07:13:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Do not try to remove that brake housing to remove the seal! You have to pull the seal out to replace it. I drill a small hole in the seal and use a small screw to remove it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650 brake seals

IP: 205.132.119.9 Posted on February 11, 2015 at 06:22:39 AM by Aaron Mowry

took the other side apart, can see where the seal is suppose to be. Took what was left of the seal out and have new seals on order. TKS, Aaron


Fuel gauge/sending unit 1650 gas

IP: 72.171.192.120 Posted on February 8, 2015 at 05:06:04 PM by Jeff Dier

Hello Larry- The 1650 gas tractor I bought came with a suspect fuel gauge. I tested the gauge and sending unit per your instructions in a previous post which indicated a bad sending unit. Replaced the sending unit. The new sending unit has a seperate connection for a ground. The old unit had only the single wire from the gauge. I improvised a ground and connected it to the frame. Now the gauge reads full all the time and does not move. It goes to empty when the engine is shut off and when the wire from the gauge is disconnected. The gauge does not come off empty when the switch is on, only when the engine is running. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Re(1): Fuel gauge/sending unit 1650 gas

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on February 12, 2015 at 08:19:14 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have assembled the gauge wrong. Recheck the instructions that came with the sending unit. Larry


carburetor

IP: 67.149.26.149 Posted on February 6, 2015 at 04:20:35 PM by steve fraus

I have a 1938 Oliver 70 row crop with a gas engine (ser#218155).I bought it to restore.It does not have a carb on it. Do you have or know what carb was used on this tractor? Any info would help. Thanks Steve

Re(1): carburetor

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on February 12, 2015 at 08:16:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Check this out with Valu-Bilt in Indianola IA. 888-828-3276. Several different carbs were used on the 70 row crops. Larry


oliver 550

IP: 24.100.121.194 Posted on February 5, 2015 at 02:58:51 PM by Brandon Dilliner

I'm needing some help in identifying a tractor. Marked with the oliver 550 decals but the serial number search has been questionable. Tag is tough to read but I think i've made out a spec# 45-0037 and ser.#75653 519 cant tell if a number is missing between the 3 and 5.Any input?

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on February 12, 2015 at 08:13:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Your serial number is 75 653. The 519 has to do with gearing etc. that was put into your tractor. I do not know the codes for this. This tractor was built in 1959. You could call the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City and get a copy of the Build Card that moved down the the line with the tractor. It will tell you several things about your tractor, including the first dealer that sold it. Not sure, but I think it may cost $20 for a copy. 641-228-1099. Larry


Oliver 1650 brake seals

IP: 65.0.100.163 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 10:37:11 AM by Aaron Mowry

Oliver 1650 is leaking hyd. fluid out of the right brake. Remove cover and pads. Is there a seal? Tried to remove the brake housing (only found three bolts), but it will not come loose from transmission housing. Need help! Tks, Aaron

Re(1): Oliver 1650 brake seals

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on February 2, 2015 at 07:13:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Do not try to remove that brake housing to remove the seal! You have to pull the seal out to replace it. I drill a small hole in the seal and use a small screw to remove it. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 1650 brake seals

IP: 205.132.119.9 Posted on February 11, 2015 at 06:22:39 AM by Aaron Mowry

took the other side apart, can see where the seal is suppose to be. Took what was left of the seal out and have new seals on order. TKS, Aaron


rear hub for Oliver 770 Ind.

IP: 69.145.197.86 Posted on January 28, 2015 at 09:49:14 PM by Rod

I am looking for a right rear hub for the 770 Industrial Backhoe, I believe 1966 year model. The Part # (I beleive) is 156114A do you have anything along this line

Re(1): rear hub for Oliver 770 Ind.

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 08:43:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Larry Svelak in Austen, TX. 512-633-5014. Larry


Oliver 1955 MFWD Parts

IP: 74.32.250.101 Posted on January 26, 2015 at 09:49:09 PM by Austin I have a 1955 MFWD And I am Looking for the Rear MFWD support. We have tried Larry Svehlak, Maibach Tractor is checking to see if they have one at the moment. Is there anyone Else that might have one? The part number is 107816A. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1955 MFWD Parts

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 08:41:25 AM by Larry Harsin

We answered this on email. Call Ken Guile in Davison, MI. Shop number: 810-653-1860. Larry


Valve Adjustment

IP: 69.35.201.183 Posted on January 22, 2015 at 11:35:52 PM by G-Mo

I have been trying to find the procedure for adjusting the valves on an Oliver 77. I know you always adjust the valves on the cylinder when it is at the top of the stroke but on each cylinder, which is intake and which is exhaust?

Re(1): Valve Adjustment

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 08:56:48 AM by Larry Harsin

This is all outlined in the Operator's Manual. You can get one from the museum in Charles City, IA. 641-228-1099. From the front of the engine, it is e-i-i-e-e-i-i-e-e-i-i-e. Look down from the top of the engine and you will see where the ports are on the manifold and you will see how it goes. Set both valves when it is on TDC, on that cylinder. Larry


oliver 77 injector pump

IP: 207.190.65.21 Posted on January 21, 2015 at 07:52:30 PM by Rick

Bought a 77 oliver diesel and I think I need to increase fuel.How do I turn up the fuel on thebosch pump?

Re(1): oliver 77 injector pump

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 08:39:29 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a 7/8 nut on the back of the governor housing. Remove that and turn the adjustment inside, clockwise to increase the fuel. Larry

Re(2): oliver 77 injector pump

IP: 207.190.65.21 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 09:28:30 PM by Rick

The pump does not have the 7/8 nut on it.Pump number on my pump isPSB-6A-707-2309B1F.It has an adjusting screw and jam nut on the back side where that nut should be located


1755 draft control

IP: 174.239.33.234 Posted on January 20, 2015 at 10:22:48 PM by Jeremy

Hi Larry , what is the function of draft override spring . It's left and below drivers seat on draft sensing linkage. Noticed spring was broken the other day. Thank you

Re(1): 1755 draft control

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on January 30, 2015 at 08:38:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It sends the message into the unit about what the 3 pt. arms are doing. I would replace it. Sorry to be so slow in answering, we have been gone. Larry


axle carrier leak on Oliver 77

IP: 97.121.8.82 Posted on January 12, 2015 at 03:00:56 PM by Jim Hyslop

I removed a mounted 2-row corn picker from my Oliver 77 and found the right axle carrier (housing) bolts were very loose. There seems to be no seal to replace. Tightening the bolts has not stopped the leak. I assume the castings are badly worn. What to do? Thank you, Jim

Re(1): axle carrier leak on Oliver 77

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 12, 2015 at 08:04:36 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be a gasket in there, but possiby the oil level is too high. Larry


1755 oliver hydrolic problems

IP: 67.142.161.23 Posted on January 10, 2015 at 02:25:00 PM by kenny

Used my 1755 Oliver to bale hay this year everything worked great when got done went to bring home and had no hydraulics 3point would not come up took 3 miles for it to come up all the way. Remotes would not open the baker, and steering was really hard to turn. Pump makes same am out of noise like it always has and hoses feel warm like usual. Oil is full and filter was changed before baling season.

Re(1): 1755 oliver hydrolic problems

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 12, 2015 at 08:01:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to tell you. You should contact your AGCO dealer about this. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


Oliver 770 engine compression and firing

IP: 70.209.71.25 Posted on January 9, 2015 at 02:47:56 PM by Kent

Just picked up a 1958 Oliver 770 row crop. Trying to get the engine running but cannot figure out appropriate engine compression or the order of piston firing...any help? To clarify...I am trying to figure out if the cylinders go in order from 1-6 from the front of the engine to the back, and what is the corresponding order on the distributor cap.

Re(1): Oliver 770 engine compression and firing

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 12, 2015 at 07:59:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is from the front of the engine. Normally it is the wire that comes out of the cap and is closest to the cylinder. #1. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 770 engine compression and firing

IP: 76.208.9.4 Posted on January 10, 2015 at 08:46:52 AM by 90%ret'd

#1 is the front, firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.


70 front hubs

IP: 70.15.65.3 Posted on January 8, 2015 at 03:04:44 PM by Codie

I have a rough Oliver 70 that I am working on making a puller out of. It currently has a large pattern 6 lug hub on it. Is there any other hub that will fit on it? I would like to be able to put the more common 6 lug style hub on it and be able to use a smaller 15 or 14 inch pressed steel wheel to lower the front end.

Re(1): 70 front hubs

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 9, 2015 at 07:29:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Not that I know of. Larry


Cockshutt 550

IP: 74.42.167.122 Posted on January 8, 2015 at 12:27:42 PM by Marty Gottwald

Larry, I recently started working on a '58/'59 ####shutt 550. I bought it at auction, and initially did not notice a "Clatter" in what sounds like the rear hydraulics. The tractor starts and runs well, after a few minutes running it sounds like gravel in the rear end. I haven't received my IT Manual yet, so I haven't removed the top of the hydro unit. Any common problems with this tractor? Also, what is the equivalent Oliver tractor number (1550)? We farmed with Olivers when I grew up, but I have no experience with the cockshutt.

Re(1): Cockshutt 550

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 9, 2015 at 07:28:32 AM by Larry Harsin

The equivalent Oliver tractor would be a 550. A Cockshutt 550 and an Oliver 550 are the same tractor. If yours isn't the same, I don't know anything about it. Larry


Oliver 1650

IP: 139.55.41.246 Posted on January 4, 2015 at 11:21:36 AM by Jimmy

the 3 pt hitch quit working but remotes still work. any idea what the problem could be?

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 5, 2015 at 08:35:12 AM by Larry Harsin

The overload relief valve on the 3 pt. hitch cylinder may have broken off. When the tractor was built that relief valve was attached to the 3 pt. hitch cylinder using a 1/4 inch pipe elbow. Now a steel elbow is used. This is not subject to breakage. If you determine that this is what happened, the complete hydraulic system must be removed from the tractor to make this repair. To help with diagnoses, I would pump the oil out of the system and then remove the hydraulic lid so that you can see down in there. Larry


Oliver 1650 suddenly runs terrible after warm up

IP: 67.142.180.21 Posted on January 3, 2015 at 07:07:09 PM by Ryan

Okay, It's going to snow in a couple days so I'm getting desperate to get my Oliver 1650 running again and need help. I live in Minnesota and I had not used the tractor for about a week, went to start it up and it would not start. I cranked it over many times to no avail. Foolishly I had simply forgotten to turn the fuel on. Once on, the tractor started up and seemed to run fine. Once it warmed up though it died and would not start again. I let it sit for about a half hour and it started again, but ran only well enough to get it back in the shed. Now it will start and run okay for about 10 minutes then dies if you throttle up too quickly, put it under any load or drive it up an incline (maybe the same as being under load). After it dies it can be hard to get it started again if at all. It is now unusable. I rebuilt the carburetor last summer and installed a pertronics electronic ignition. Up until 2 weeks ago it ran really well. After it stopped running, I pulled the carb drain plug and fuel runs out in a constant stream, but not a stream the diameter of the hole. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel bowl screen and sprayed carb cleaner through the fuel bowl into the tank and through the fuel lines to the carb to make sure there was no obstruction. This did nothing. I pulled the center wire from the coil to check spark both after start up and after it starts running bad and the spark is blue. I replaced the coil anyway and it did nothing. The plug wires are fairly new, and I checked 4 of 6 plugs and they look good. The distributor cap is about a year and a half old and looks okay to me... I haven't pulled the carb apart yet to see if there's anything stuck. Need advice!

Re(1): Oliver 1650 suddenly runs terrible after warm up

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 5, 2015 at 08:28:20 AM by Larry Harsin

If you havn't done this, I would take the fuel strainer out of the fuel tank and make sure there isn't a plug in the neck of the strainer. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650 suddenly runs terrible after warm up

IP: 67.142.180.26 Posted on January 5, 2015 at 07:36:13 PM by Ryan

Okay, I will try that next. I have pulled the fuel line from the carb and opened the pet####. It seems like there is descent fuel flow, do you still think there may be an obstruction? Also, I went ahead and pulled the carb yesterday to look for any obstructions and to blow out all the ports with carb cleaner. I didn't see anything but I thought the float looked weird so I adjusted it to 1/4" with the gasket installed (I know this wouldn't explain the sudden performance issue anyway). Is that the correct float setting? I put it back on and the tractor wont even kick over now... That said, it's -15 outside tonight.

Re(3): Oliver 1650 suddenly runs terrible after warm up

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 8, 2015 at 07:36:23 AM by Larry Harsin

That float setting sounds right. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 1650 suddenly runs terrible after warm up

IP: 68.69.83.97 Posted on February 1, 2015 at 03:39:12 PM by Justin

I had a similar problem last summer with my 1650 diesel. Tractor would idle forever but die shortly after throttling up. I cleaned the bowl and screen plus replaced filters. No change. I finally noticed a drop in fuel level in the bowl when engine was revved up. Turns out there was sludge built up in the line and valve coming out of the tank. Ran a wire up it a few times and problem solved. Look for air bubbles or a drop is fuel level in the bowl when increasing demand for fuel. Hope this helps.


Oliver 550 parts

IP: 70.189.80.225 Posted on January 3, 2015 at 02:44:46 PM by Andrew Draugel

While attending the HPOCA summer show in summer of 2013, I ran across a vender that specialized in nothing but original 55 and 550 parts. I thought I grabbed his business card to keep his information. Does this ring a bell with anyone for his contact info? Looking for a good governor for a late model 550.

Re(1): Oliver 550 parts

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on January 5, 2015 at 08:24:53 AM by Larry Harsin

That is Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349. OrLarry Svelak in Austin, TX. 512-633-5014. Larry


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