1650

IP: 71.164.70.110 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 08:19:57 PM by robert lapage

Hi Larry My 1650 stuck in gear while moving and locked up and stalled the engine. I was able to get it out of gear and drove home. Went thru the ranges of gears, seemed to work fine. Went back to using the pto on the rake and it locked up again. This time I can not get it out of gear. I did take the shifter out and looked for the rail aligned. I can not get it to move. Any help!!!! I am guessing I need to tear into the tranny? Thanks. Robert

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on August 3, 2013 at 07:19:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably, the input cluster got hot. Probably, from lack of lubrication. Yes, you will have to take it apart. Has the transmission oil been kept up to the level plug? Larry

1600 Oliver

IP: 64.30.54.171 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 01:00:27 PM by Pat

I have a 1600 with hydraulic oil leaking into the transmission. When this happened to our Super 66 it was a cracked housing in the hydraulic pump. this is a bit different. where should I start?

Re(1): 1600 Oliver

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on August 3, 2013 at 07:15:56 AM by Larry Harsin

It's either a crack in the oil pan or a bad pump seal. Larry

1550 servo valve

IP: 174.20.124.210 Posted on July 30, 2013 at 07:44:15 AM by Floyd Hi Larry:I have my 1550 apart to fix a leak in the hydraulic oil pan.The servo valve pilot spool spring retainer cap was loose, I reseated the cap,What is the correct adjustment for the spring? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1550 servo valve

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 07:17:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know that there is an adjustment. I would put it back the way it was. Larry

Re(2): 1550 servo valve

IP: 174.20.149.133 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 09:40:51 AM by Floyd

Hi Larry: Maybe adjustment is the wrong term. If I replace the spring,how far should the spool stick out of the valve body when the nuts contact the retainer cap.The first part of the valve is even with the body now. Thanks again for your help.

Re(3): 1550 servo valve

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on August 1, 2013 at 06:53:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I think if the first part of the valve is even with the body, that is o.k. I don't think it makes that much difference. Larry

550

IP: 173.113.75.246 Posted on July 30, 2013 at 07:34:31 AM by John Berge

The lever that controls my 3 point hitch is frozen. I have sprayed with penetrating oil and hope it will free up. Can I remove the 3 bolts that hold it to the trans housing and not mess up anything on the inside of the housing?

Re(1): 550

IP: 173.113.34.255 Posted on August 15, 2013 at 11:08:34 AM by John Berge

Larry, somehow I sheared the roll pin on the end of the 3 point lever shaft. So I had to take off the transmission cover. I have tried to find new gaskets but am having no luck. Do you know where I can get new gaskets? Agcopartsbooks doesn't show my transmission, I believe the one they show is for a shuttle trans. Thanks

Re(2): 550

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 07:16:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it will have to be disconnected from the inside also to be able to remove it from the tractor. What I have done is warm up the lever and tap on the shaft to help free it. You have to be careful because the lever is aluminum. I know what you are trying to fix, because I encounter this occasionally. Larry

plugs

IP: 209.170.68.18 Posted on July 29, 2013 at 03:41:41 PM by matt

Hi Larry. What is a good spark plug you would recommend to use in an 1850 with the 310?

Re(1): plugs

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on July 30, 2013 at 07:15:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I use Champion N11Y. Larry

OLiver 1655

IP: 70.194.65.94 Posted on July 28, 2013 at 08:42:27 PM by Jerry Lower

I have a 1974 Oliver 1655 Gas Tractor with a Bendix - Zeinth Carb. after running a short time depending on engine speed or gas intake velocity (5-minutes at idle)the carb ices up and the engines stops, let the carb warm up and it repeats. I know this process is called Throttling when liquids are forced through an orifice the liquid is atomizes into gasses and a change in temperature thus refrigeration. But I don't want it to happen in my carburetor. The cold is in the 1 inch diameter bore between the choke plate and the intake manifold, choke is wide open. I have had the carb cleaned and rebuilt and in the procees of taking it to another mechanic. What do you think is happening.

Re(1): OiLiver 1655

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 30, 2013 at 07:13:47 AM by Larry Harsin

This is something that is pretty hard to combat. Make sure the thermostat is working so that the tractor warms up quickly. Also, you could remove the intake manifold and make sure there is no ash or carbon around the intake. That is supposed to be open so that hot air can get around in that chamber. Larry

Re(2): OLiver 1655

IP: 70.194.74.210 Posted on August 8, 2013 at 07:30:09 PM by jerry lower

Thanks for your suggestions. It must have something to do with the flow and carbon is the only thing that would change that. I will check the thermostat but this thing will ice up in the hottest days.

1650 3pt hitch

IP: 65.123.189.212 Posted on July 25, 2013 at 12:14:19 PM by Neil Paulsen

I've got a gas 1650 tractor with a 3pt hitch issue. The other day I was using the blade on the hitch and the loader to get rid of some small stumps and fence posts. After removing a post, I went to back up and the 3pt had lowered and the blade was resting on the ground, but the lever was in the raised position. I moved the lever back and forth a bit with no results. Finally I moved the lever all the way to the lowered position and the blade rose to the highest position, and the hydraulic pump sounded like it was still trying to pump or was stuck. I raised the lever back to the raised position, and the bladed stayed in that position, but slowly drifted back down to rest on the ground. Again, I moved the lever to the lowest position and the 3pt returned to maximum height. I checked the hydraulic fluid level, and it was slightly down, but still was registering on the dipstick. I parked the tractor for a few days and tried it again. It is still acting the same as it was the time before. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts of what the issue is??

Re(1): 1650 3pt hitch

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on July 27, 2013 at 08:50:04 AM by Larry Harsin

There could possibly a sheared pin on the control linkage. This is my first thought. Also, read in your Operator's Manual about the block out on the 3 pt. hitch linkage for the draft control. It is above the axle on the left side of the unit. Larry

Oliver Super 88 Diesel

IP: 174.238.230.71 Posted on July 24, 2013 at 09:17:34 PM by Simon M

I am going to purchase a fresh painted Oliver super 88 diesel it runs like brand new no use at all on it! The owner had the painter paint the front grill clover white as well as the rims and lettering!!! I was almost positve thats supers only had yellow grills and lettering and all green rims...its a 1955 model...could you please please tell me if i am correct or not!!!????

Re(1): Oliver Super 88 Diesel

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 27, 2013 at 08:46:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Your assumptions are correct. The grills should be yellow and the wheels green. Larry

Super 66 diesel head crack

IP: 108.12.194.206 Posted on July 23, 2013 at 10:59:28 AM by Tom

Hi Larry, I have a crack on # 2 cyl. at the head gasket surface between the exhaust seat and the injector nozzel hole. The machine shop tested for fluid leaks and found none. Is that good news or still bad news? The head came off because the energy cell on # 3 was stuck and normal carbon build up. Should I look for a replacement head or put this on back on once the energy cell issue is resolved. Thanks, Tom in R.I.

Re(1): Super 66 diesel head crack

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on July 24, 2013 at 06:55:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd go ahead and put the head back on. They are very scarce. It's not unusual to have small cracks like that. Larry

Re(2): Super 66 diesel head crack

IP: 108.12.194.206 Posted on July 24, 2013 at 08:48:38 AM by Tom

Thats good news,thanks Larry. So my next question is if I fail on getting the energy cell body out of the head , can I be confident that just the cap and spacer once cleaned will do there job? I'm thinking that the body is fixed and does not move so if the hole is opened it should work as good as if I removed it to clean and polish it.

Re(3): Super 66 diesel head crack

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on July 27, 2013 at 08:45:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't normally remove those heads. I just take a brass rod (it won't scratch any of the metal) and try to get out as much carbon as you can, Then, reassemble it. If you get the engine running, I would put it on a load and let it run for at least a half hour and it will clean that carbon left in there, by itself. Larry

1850 oliver

IP: 74.248.219.33 Posted on July 22, 2013 at 05:59:13 PM by Cedar hayes

Hi Larry we r building a roll bar to match exact with an orginal Oliver roll bar for our 1850 but what I'm asking is would u know the length of the bottom of the roll bar where it bolts to the tractor frame the length from inside to inside all the way across from the bottoming the rollbar insid the tubes all the way across? And the top all the way across inside thanks please

Re(1): 1850 oliver

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 23, 2013 at 07:16:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know those measurements. Call Saginaw Co. Tractor Parts 810-638-5787. They make them. Larry

steering wheel removal and tilt steering fix

IP: 69.197.92.119 Posted on July 22, 2013 at 10:53:13 AM by David McCurdy

Wanted to check to see if there is a video of steering wheel removal instructions. I have a gas 1650 with power steering. the tilt steering column is currently free wheeling up and down. I have ordered a repair manual but thought i would check to see what info was available. Thanks Much.

Re(1): steering wheel removal and tilt steering fix

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 23, 2013 at 07:13:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if there is a video, All I know is that there is a Shop Manual that you can get from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): steering wheel removal and tilt steering fix

IP: 69.197.92.119 Posted on July 23, 2013 at 01:38:40 PM by DAVID M.

JUST RECEIVED MY SHOP MANUAL TODAY.

Re(3): steering wheel removal and tilt steering fix

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 27, 2013 at 08:39:46 AM by Larry Harsin

If you still have problems, give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

1955 hydraulic oil in transmission

IP: 166.181.83.126 Posted on July 19, 2013 at 05:36:18 PM by noel glastetter

my 1955 is leaking hydraulic oil into the transmission, what causes this and what is the solution?

Re(1): 1955 hydraulic oil in transmission

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on July 22, 2013 at 06:54:30 AM by Larry Harsin

Usually it leaks through the PTO clutches. Larry

Re(2): 1955 hydraulic oil in transmission

IP: 166.181.83.71 Posted on July 23, 2013 at 07:47:39 PM by n glastetter

does this mean a rebuid on PTO? or is it just a seal? thanks for your help

Re(3): 1955 hydraulic oil in transmission

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 27, 2013 at 08:37:10 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be either way. It depends on what you find. Larry

550 repair manual

IP: 64.112.212.104 Posted on July 16, 2013 at 02:46:32 PM by mark Where can I buy a legit Oliver 550 motor repair book? I have a motor in pieces that I am trying to rebuild. Short block rebuilt by motor shop 5 years ago. Just getting back to it.

550 repair manual

IP: 64.112.212.104 Posted on July 16, 2013 at 02:46:32 PM by mark

Where can I buy a legit Oliver 550 motor repair book? I have a motor in pieces that I am trying to rebuild. Short block rebuilt by motor shop 5 years ago. Just getting back to it.

Re(1): 550 repair manual

IP: 76.208.29.7 Posted on July 16, 2013 at 03:29:07 PM by 90%ret'd

http://www.floydcountymuseum.org/ They have the best manuals.

Disc Brakes

IP: 174.19.81.67 Posted on July 14, 2013 at 01:46:43 PM by Marlin Smith

I'm trying to put the disc brakes on my 550 oliver. I can get all the bolts to line up but on of the 5/8" bolt on the bottom left. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Does the springs on the activating disc assembly have to be in a grove on both of the brake disc?

Re(1): Disc Brakes

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on July 17, 2013 at 06:57:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I put the 5/8" bolts in before I put the brakes on the tractor. We discussed this on the phone. Larry

Oliver 77 engine block

IP: 205.141.0.1 Posted on July 14, 2013 at 10:15:19 AM by Scott Williams

Looking for an oliver 77 diesel engine block. The block I have now has been welded on at some point in its life. the #'s on the block are 185220 M100. Any help on this or were i can get on will help. Thanks Scott

Re(1): Oliver 77 engine block

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on July 17, 2013 at 07:12:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I have an Oliver 77 diesel engine block. Give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 108.2.194.3 Posted on July 12, 2013 at 08:46:51 PM by Ed Bachman

I replaced the sealed bearing on the pto stub shaft(88128) on an oliver 1850. From my bearing supplier I was told I cannot get the original bearing with felt seal. He supplied me with a rubber sealed bearing of the same part number. I installed it, put oil back in the gear case and I have oil weaping through the bearing. Do you have any suggestions on what to do to seal/replace it with what so that I do not have gear oil leaking externally.

Re(1): Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 17, 2013 at 06:55:16 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a rubber O ring that sits in the housing. It should be replaced when you install the bearing. Larry

Re(3): Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 07:21:42 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have the plug pushed in too far so that the O ring isn't seating on the plug. Otherwise, I don't know. Larry

Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 108.2.194.3 Posted on July 12, 2013 at 08:46:51 PM by Ed Bachman

I replaced the sealed bearing on the pto stub shaft(88128) on an oliver 1850. From my bearing supplier I was told I cannot get the original bearing with felt seal. He supplied me with a rubber sealed bearing of the same part number. I installed it, put oil back in the gear case and I have oil weaping through the bearing. Do you have any suggestions on what to do to seal/replace it with what so that I do not have gear oil leaking externally.

Re(1): Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 17, 2013 at 06:55:16 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a rubber O ring that sits in the housing. It should be replaced when you install the bearing. Larry

Re(2): Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 108.2.194.3 Posted on July 28, 2013 at 08:11:06 PM by Ed Bachman

Hi we did replace the o ring in the housing when we put the new bearing in. The oil appears. To be passing through the bearing.

Re(3): Sealed bearing on pto stub

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 31, 2013 at 07:21:42 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have the plug pushed in too far so that the O ring isn't seating on the plug. Otherwise, I don't know. Larry

351 mower

IP: 75.229.116.200 Posted on July 11, 2013 at 06:21:03 PM by Paul

I have a oliver 351 mower that I am trying to rebuild. The one I have does not have the "harmonic balancer" and I do not have any manuals to refer to for a part number. ANY assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 351 mower

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on July 12, 2013 at 07:07:41 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

1655 Clutch Change

IP: 206.126.209.6 Posted on July 8, 2013 at 08:20:55 PM by kilrbs

I need to change the clutch in a 1655 oliver with direct drive (no hydra power or 2 speed). I have heard that you do not need to pull the engine, but I can't figure out how to get the output shaft separated. I have already removed the long pto shaft. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I can send a photo if it helps.

Re(1): 1655 Clutch Change

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on July 11, 2013 at 07:05:52 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a coupling ahead of the transmission. Remove the bolts and slide the transmission forward. Larry

Re(1): 1655 Clutch Change

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on July 11, 2013 at 07:05:52 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a coupling ahead of the transmission. Remove the bolts and slide the coupling forward. Larry

Oliver 1855 fuel leak

IP: 70.210.68.8 Posted on July 8, 2013 at 10:15:58 AM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. I have a 1855 diesel and when I went to the barn I saw what looked like a good size puddle under the fuel tank. Upon inspection I found the drain #### for water was leaking. Never leaked before so I was surprised. Trying to order one from my Agco dealer but is this just a standard NPT brass plumbing part? What size do you think this thing is? Thank you.

Re(1): Oliver 1855 fuel leak

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 11, 2013 at 07:03:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is 1/8 inch pipe thread. What usually happens is the water in the sump carrodes the sump and then it rusts through and it leaks. You'll have to take the pump off and get it repaired. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1855 fuel leak

IP: 70.194.4.127 Posted on August 16, 2013 at 03:32:12 PM by jerry shannon

Just a follow up Larry. Was not the fuel drain valve on bottom of tank that was leaking. Used the brush hog a few days later and fuel started spraying our formn a pin hole in the bottom of the tank. I drained that tank, cleanded the ourside, sanded it and after it was dry adn clean, I used JBWeld on the spot and smoothed it around the entire area. Let it cure for 3 days and put another small coat on entire area. it is smooth and does not leak. FYI.

1850 Perkins rear main seal

IP: 166.137.100.46 Posted on July 6, 2013 at 04:28:33 PM by Jesse hayes

Larry our 1850 Perkins sweat back front end I was wondering can pull the front axle out and drop ur oil pan and replace up in their the rear main seal is that a easier way of doing it or do u have to pull the engine?

Re(1): 1850 Perkins rear main seal

IP: 99.196.64.56 Posted on July 8, 2013 at 06:29:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm sure you are going to have to pull the engine to replace that rear main seal. Larry

Oliver 550 transmission gets hot

IP: 66.87.124.108 Posted on July 5, 2013 at 12:10:15 PM by Eric

Hey Larry I have a Oliver 550 I use with a brush hog. When using after about 10 minutes the tranny is very hot... Any ideas?

Re(1): Oliver 550 transmission gets hot

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on July 8, 2013 at 06:28:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Does it have the correct transmission grease? It should have 80-90 in it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 transmission gets hot

IP: 66.87.124.8 Posted on July 22, 2013 at 09:06:46 AM by Eric

Thank you Larry, yes I have 80-90 in it it drips out both ends of tranny ( engine side and pto). I always bring the level up before use, any additive to help slow leak? I don't have a lot of money for splitting tractor and putting in new seals... Also new problem, seems when fuel gets to be around 1/4 tank it stalls out on slight inclines... All filters are new, any ideas?

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