"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - July, 2016 Archives


Oliver tractor id

IP: 199.68.105.229 Posted on July 31, 2016 at 09:27:39 PM by Greg

I have just purchased a Oliver with a Dave brown 6 cal diesel SN 462491 Spec # 990/OA Any ideas? I am trying to figure what model and year to buy parts. It needs a crankshaft. Thank you, Greg

Re(1): Oliver tractor id

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 1, 2016 at 07:13:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Can you email a picture and the serial number to us? Our email address is at the top of this page. A picture would help us tell what model you have and the serial number will tell us what year it was built. Sandra Harsin

Re(2): Oliver tractor id

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 2, 2016 at 07:20:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor is an Oliver 600 built in England by David Brown. After you dig it out of the vines and you know what you will need, you will probably have to find someone who has David Brown parts. Check with Elmer Landman in Canada 519-363-2663. He may have advice on looking for parts. Another place to check for parts might be Carmichael Tractors in TN. Ask for Buck. 865-674-2229. Larry


Super 55 oils question

IP: 75.154.246.138 Posted on July 31, 2016 at 04:09:05 PM by Stu

Hi Larry, one more Super 55 gas question. In my gas engine, is it safe to use 15-40 rotella diesel engine oil. I'm trying to reduce oils on the shelf. How about 15-40 oil in the hydraulics as well. Can I substitute 10-30 to 15-40.

Re(1): Super 55 oils question

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 2, 2016 at 07:01:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The 1540 should work fine in the engine. I would use a medium non-foaming hydraulic oil in the hydraulic, such as a 20 weight. Larry


Super 55 3ph lift

IP: 75.154.246.138 Posted on July 31, 2016 at 11:22:28 AM by Stu

Hi Larry, great site. I have a Super 55 gas, and I want to get a rotary rake for haying, it's suited for 25 hp. It's just under 600 pounds. What would be the lifting capacity of the S55 3 point hitch assuming the mechanical aspects are in good shape.

Re(1): Super 55 3ph lift

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 2, 2016 at 06:59:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It should work good with that application. Larry


550 industrial

IP: 70.198.34.25 Posted on July 30, 2016 at 10:26:51 PM by G wegner

Has Been starting okay.Hear click sound near starter when attempting to start it. Battery is good. Could it be a bad starter or the device mounted on top of the starter? Could that be kind of a solenoid? Thanks

Re(1): 550 industrial

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 2, 2016 at 06:57:59 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be a bad starter solenoid, or it could be a bad starter. Larry


1650 steering

IP: 172.242.146.50 Posted on July 28, 2016 at 10:05:32 AM by corre

I have been slowly loosing steering while driving wheel is steady needed to be turned to keep tractor straight where would be the best place to start to get it tighten back up On a trip to a field wheel made it around 5 times in a 10 mile trip

Re(1): 1650 steering

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on August 2, 2016 at 06:56:14 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to determine if the problem is with the unit of the steering wheel or if it is down in the unit under the radiator. Read in your Operator's Manual about the Blocking Valve. If the Blocking Valve is in the up position and you can move your wheels left or right, there could be a problem in the steering cylinder. Otherwise the problem could be in the steering hydra-motor. Larry


Fuel Tank

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 27, 2016 at 09:24:16 PM by Don Andrew

What do you recommend for an in-tank gas filter/screen? We use a gas, Oliver 1650. I constantly get junk stuck above the sediment bulb, and have to drain/dismantle the lines. Thank you--Don Andrew

Re(1): Fuel Tank

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 27, 2016 at 09:26:48 PM by Larry Harsin

You have a dirty on the inside, fuel tank. Remove the fuel strainer from the tank and power wash the inside of the gas tank. Dry it out good and clean the filter. You can do this without removing the tank from the tractor. But it is o.k. to remove it also. Whatever works. Larry


Oliver 1650 ring gear

IP: 99.196.250.32 Posted on July 26, 2016 at 12:08:05 PM by David Risser

On our 1650 gas the teeth on the ring gear are wore and the starter doesn't turn the ring gear right. Can we flip the ring gear over or do we need to get a new ring gear?

Re(1): Oliver 1650 ring gear

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 27, 2016 at 08:08:51 AM by Larry Harsin

You can flip the ring gear or you can get another one. Whichever works for you. Larry


Oliver 1600

IP: 97.82.186.206 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 03:46:39 PM by Josh

Hello I am having trouble finding info on a 1600 Oliver. Is the battery a positive ground or neg ground system?

Re(1): Oliver 1600

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 27, 2016 at 08:07:03 AM by Larry Harsin

If the 1600 has a generator, it is positive ground. Larry


PTO clutch parts - 550

IP: 68.207.179.150 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 12:32:18 PM by Mark Osgood

I have an Oliver 550 with a 588 loader. The tractor is one of the models with 6 fiber discs in the PTO clutch. Upon disengaging the clutch while bush-hogging, I felt a small amount of grinding. After that, the PTO would not engage. I did not split the tractor, but followed the suggestion of a guy who calls himself the Canadian Redneck. I took off the steering box, etc. and opened the tractor from the top. The pressure plate and the sleeve were broken into several pieces. The clutch actuating fork was worn in the top middle as if it had been rubbing against the spinning shaft located above it. I had pushed the PTO engaging lever far forward and tied it forward since the locking mechanism on the lever did not work. Could this wear on the fork be caused from tying the lever too far forward? Could this cause too much stress on the linkage between the pressure plate and the sliding sleeve causing it to fail? If the fork was being rubbed by the spinning shaft above it, could the heat have caused a parts failure? I saw the pressure plate for $250. I would like to find a lower price. Do you have any more suggestions of places for parts? Can you help me find the sliding sleeve? Thanks

Re(1): PTO clutch parts - 550

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 27, 2016 at 08:05:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure that I can analyze your problem, but you will have to split the tractor in order to repair it. I think after you get it apart, you will be able to determine what caused the problem. I recommend getting a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City, IA 641-228-1099. You will want to do a Z split. You can get parts from Kent Gordon in Palestine TX, 903-729-8349. Larry


1650 oliver tractor

IP: 67.44.208.64 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 06:26:12 AM by lawrence day

will a 1650 wide front end be able to be put on a 1800 oliver, and would it be possible to use the 1800 engine on the 1650 gas would they bolt up. thanks for any help

Re(1): 1650 oliver tractor

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 08:20:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is possible on both counts. Larry


1900 rear end

IP: 107.77.111.26 Posted on July 23, 2016 at 03:50:03 PM by Paul Bartlett

Will a 1955 rear end bolt to a 1900 tub

Re(1): 1900 rear end

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 08:18:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will. Larry


Rubber Seat springs

IP: 108.16.209.82 Posted on July 23, 2016 at 02:44:01 PM by Steve Moyer

We have been having trouble with the new rubber seat springs we are installing on the 770 and 88. They do not hold up. Tear the rubber quickly. Do you have any suggestions to make them last longer with adjustment or type to use. Been getting from Tractorparts asap. All States Ag parts

Re(1): Rubber Seat springs

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 08:16:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Korves about this problem. 618-939-6681. They may have a different supplier. Larry


1855 Gas Governor Issues

IP: 173.242.87.11 Posted on July 21, 2016 at 09:19:41 PM by Dan Pate

Have a 1855 gas tractor, bought with a broken governor, weights were sheared off from the shaft. I bought a used governor, installed it, but haven't been able to get it operating. I set the linkage up according to the service manual, but the engine rpms take off well over the max just by moving the throttle lever a little past idle. Any ideas would sure be appreciated. Thank you.

Re(1): 1855 Gas Governor Issues

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 25, 2016 at 08:15:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should take the governor apart again and inspect it for broken parts. Larry


1800 hydraulic oil leak

IP: 184.169.56.187 Posted on July 20, 2016 at 06:55:31 AM by Grant b

I have an 1800 with a hydraulic oil leak. The oil leaks into the rear end. I removed the hydraulic housings and re sealed the oil pan to the rear end and the oil pan to the hydraulic housing, but I continues to leak. What would my next move be?

Re(1): 1800 hydraulic oil leak

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 21, 2016 at 07:50:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Did you replace the seal on the draft control rod? If it isn't that, the pump seal is probably leaking. Larry


1550 Oliver carborater

IP: 107.195.86.168 Posted on July 17, 2016 at 12:15:03 PM by Mike Heuker

Why would the carburetor not get fuel when fuel is in the line going to the carburetor?

Re(1): 1550 Oliver carborater

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 18, 2016 at 08:08:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. There must be some foreign material n there plugging the line. Larry

Re(2): 1550 Oliver carborater

IP: 66.230.245.170 Posted on July 19, 2016 at 09:45:28 AM by arnie

A long time ago I had a similar problem. Someone had installed an inline filter and used rubber fuel line to make the connections. When they pushed the rubber line onto the steel line they had cut to make room for the filter, the sharp edge partially cut the inside of the line in such a way that allowed fuel to freely flow thru it when disconnected but would block fuel flow when reinstalled. Worth a look. Arnie


Oliver 770 Diesel Dipstick

IP: 207.194.245.202 Posted on July 16, 2016 at 10:42:52 AM by Todd Hinton

I have an Oliver 770 Diesel. The engine oil dipstick is missing from the cap and I am going to make a new one. I need to know the length measurement from the bottom of the inside of the cap to the end, and at what length the high and low mark is on the stick. Thank you in advance!

Re(1): Oliver 770 Diesel Dipstick

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 18, 2016 at 08:06:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Give me a call, 712-362-2966. I have a dipstick for you. Larry


Oliver 66 diesel

IP: 38.104.212.14 Posted on July 13, 2016 at 08:35:53 AM by Chad

Hi Larry I have a 66 diesel that is getting fuel in the oil. I drove it in the forth of July parade and by the time I got done fuel was boiling out of the dipstick and running out of the valve cover. I shut the engine down. I pulled the fuel pump off and the diagram looked great. ( I changed it last year) what else could be wrong?

Re(1): Oliver 66 diesel

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 15, 2016 at 07:22:28 AM by Larry Harsin

There must be fuel getting in through the injection pump itself some way. Give me a call so we can discuss this a little. 712-362-2966. Larry


1755 carb.

IP: 72.169.96.97 Posted on July 12, 2016 at 03:53:39 PM by frank learned

Hello Larry, I am at war with this. It has been the rounds and now i get a shot at it. It runs rich at all rpm,s.Here is some of what i have done. Checked the jets for their proper location,set the float per oliver shop manual, the person before me had installed new kit including needle and seat as well as diaphrame. I did the vaccume test on the accel. check valve but my 78 yr. old ears did not allow a good result. The engine will maintain full rpm with the load needle bottomed out, ditto on idle with adj screw bottomed.Thanks in advance for council.

Re(1): 1755 carb.

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 15, 2016 at 07:19:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to suggest, if you have done all of that! Check them all over again. Larry


Oliver 550 countershaft

IP: 107.77.169.10 Posted on July 11, 2016 at 11:06:19 PM by Billy A.

Pulled the PTO shaft on my '63 550 while replacing the PTO clutch discs, so I could replace the rear PTO seal, oring, and bearing while I was in there. I noticed that some of the needles fell out of the 4 bearings that go around the PTO shaft. The 2 in the front gear and the front one in the countershaft shouldn't be a problem to replace, the rear one in the shaft is a different story. Any tips on replacing that bearing without disassembling the transmission? Will the countershaft come out without taking off the top? I've taken off the middle lower frame section to get to the front of the countershaft, but can't tell if any further disassembly would be in vain from that end. Thank you in advance. Billy

Re(1): Oliver 550 countershaft

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 12, 2016 at 06:53:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if it is possible to put that bearing back in without disassembling the transmission. Larry


2-110 hydra power

IP: 206.72.53.199 Posted on July 8, 2016 at 03:20:18 AM by Ross Swyter

i have a noticeable rattle when the tractor is warm and idling. i think it was doing this in over, but if i shift to the direct or under position, the rattle goes away. is this anything to be concerned about? i have the 3 speed out now since i am replacing the clutch.

Re(1): 2-110 hydra power

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 9, 2016 at 07:26:31 AM by Larry Harsin

No it is not anything to be concerned about. Larry


2-110 clutch finger adj.

IP: 206.72.53.199 Posted on July 8, 2016 at 03:11:41 AM by ross swyter

installing new clutch and pressure plate assembly from north american clutch and driveline company (nacd). rockford il. my white mech. told me he adjusted the fingers even with the outside on the pressure plate housing. on this unit, the fingers wont adj to that point. should i just adj to correct free travel on the clutch arm? if so, what should the travel on the clutch arm be? i wonder if the correct finger position is different depending on the manufacturer, and arm travel is what to go by.

Re(1): 2-110 clutch finger adj.

IP: 206.72.53.199 Posted on July 8, 2016 at 10:28:25 AM by Ross Swyter

new info. i called the mfg. clutch was set at factory and lockdown bolts installed. i did not know this so i got the factory settings messed up. supposed to be 2.563" now i just have to figure out how to do that. my white mech. said to set fingers flush with housing. maybe that us good starting point.


Oliver 550 w/Waukesha D155 diesel

IP: 99.44.1.111 Posted on July 6, 2016 at 02:29:40 PM by Mike Henderson

What parts go behind the lifter which operates on the fuel pump lobe of the camshaft?

Re(1): Oliver 550 w/Waukesha D155 diesel

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 7, 2016 at 08:40:27 AM by Larry Harsin

There is nothing behind the lifter. The arm runs directly on the cam shaft. Some of the older models had a saddle that ran between the arm and the cam shaft. Larry


Oliver 1650 Hydrapower

IP: 69.24.118.244 Posted on July 6, 2016 at 11:23:13 AM by Jon

Larry, I purchased an Oliver 1650 that someone had removed the hydrapower unit and installed a delete kit. I was able to find a hydra-power unit and got the different coupler chain and sprockets and I believe everything I need to install it. I was wondering how to make sure that the unit is good out of the tractor so I don't waste time removing the engine twice if the unit is bad. I made a socket out of a used clutch disc to be able to turn the input shaft, but I didn't notice a speed change as I shifted. Is that bad, or am I doing something wrong?

Re(1): Oliver 1650 Hydrapower

IP: 66.230.245.170 Posted on July 6, 2016 at 02:13:50 PM by arnie

I have a good Hydrapower taken from an 1850 gas if the one you have doesn't work out.

Re(2): Oliver 1650 Hydrapower

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 7, 2016 at 08:38:12 AM by Larry Harsin

What you are doing is the logical thing to do, but if there is very much doubt, I would take it out. You can check the pressures, but as far as the low side and the sprague clutch. I don't know how you are going to figure that out. Larry


Oliver 70

IP: 76.5.98.2 Posted on July 4, 2016 at 04:02:51 PM by Jim Surber

I have a 1936 Oliver Hart Parr 70 and can't figure out how to remove the right-rear side shield from around the belt pulley shaft. I'm sure you will have the answer. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 184.21.143.147 Posted on July 7, 2016 at 08:33:34 AM by Larry Harsin

You will either have to cut the panel or remove the belt pulley before you can remove the panel. Larry


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