"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" July thru Mid-August, 2002 Archives



OLIVER 1865

IP: 157.134.168.92 Posted on August 15, 2002 at 03:09:37 PM by RON MCDOUGALL

DEAR SIR: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHEN OLIVER MADE THE MODEL 1865. THIS MONTHS ISSUE OF THE FASTLINE (OHIO EDITION)HAS A PICTURE OF AN OLIVER MODEL 1865 TRACTOR. IS THIS A MISPRINT OR DID THEY ACTUALLY MAKE A MODEL LIKE THIS. WHAT ENGINE DID THEY USE IN THIS MODEL THANKS RON

Re(1): OLIVER 1865

IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on August 15, 2002 at 11:44:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they made this model. It was actually a Minneapolis Moline in Oliver paint. They built them one year - 1971. They made 413 of them so it is a rare tractor. The engine was a 4 and a quarter by 5 inch bore and stroke Minneapolis Moline engine. In the MM tractors they were called a G 950. Larry


s88 diesel

IP: 64.12.107.37 Posted on August 14, 2002 at 12:25:17 AM by tom lemle

hello larry enjoy your site, have a s88 diesel 1955 , tractor is in good cond,an motor sounds good ,but has a slight knock in rear end (underneath hyd unit ) when ideling , an especially when cold . hyd unit also looses fluid in to rear end ,suppose this would be a seal in hyd unit(top half)? also how many pounds oil pressure should this tractor carry when working on hot day

Re(1): s88 diesel

IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on August 15, 2002 at 05:22:02 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to take your pump apart and put in a new seal and probably new bearings. While you have your pump out, you can check out your transmission noise. Your tractor should carry 12 - 18 lbs of pressure. Larry


damage to elec system

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on August 13, 2002 at 08:29:57 AM by Polk Crawler

I read if battery cables are attached to wrong terminals in a postive ground system damage will occur. Please explain what damage occurs and how serious it is in the system. Thanks PC

Re(1): damage to elec system

IP: 209.163.7.23 Posted on August 14, 2002 at 05:28:21 AM by Larry Harsin

For one thing, you can burn out a voltage regulator. Or you can burn out diodes in your alternator. Sometimes this can be pretty serious. On these newer vehicles, with more of the electronic componets where they give you readouts on the dash etc. it can really mess you up. Make a determation as to whether your situation is negative or positive ground. As a general rule, all alternator-type systems are negative ground. And, as a general rule, all Oliver Equip. with generators that are Delco-Remy systems are positive ground. Always refer to your Operator's Manual before you start servicing your electrical componets. Usually, right by the battery or the starter, there is a decal that tells you if it is negative or positive ground. Larry

Re(2): damage to elec system

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on August 14, 2002 at 09:10:14 AM by Polk Crawler

Should have included info the system is 6V, postive ground, on OC3 Herc engine. no alternator, generator only with reg. Crawler had an 8V battery when I got it; battery people here advise generator in a 6V system cannot keep an 8V battery charged up. Only advantage is quicker starter spin and faster start, feature not important to me. Also, am told to use 8V battery the regulator needs to be cranked up to feed the 8 V battery?Going back to 6V battery but maybe the voltage regulator burned up as you suggest. Thanks for the advice. PC


rusty gas tank

IP: 209.240.222.131 Posted on August 11, 2002 at 08:38:32 PM by Peter

I have a 550 that I purchased about six months ago. I have just started to use it frequently. It started to run rough. I first tried carburetor cleaner in the gas tank. When that didn't work, I rebuilt the carburetor, put in a new coil,condensor,and an in line gas filter. It runs good now but stalls while idling. In an 8 hour day, I emptied the sediment bowl of rusty sediment 6-8 times. This was after I had taken the tank off and flushed it out with a high pressure washer,than gas.Is there any way to get the tank clean with out having to have it done professionally, as they want a minimun of a $100.00 to do it. Thanks Peter

Re(1): rusty gas tank

IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on August 11, 2002 at 09:46:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the gas tank off and put about a pint or so of pea gravel in it and shake it all around and then rinse it out. That will take out scale. If it is varnish, use something like carburator cleaner or paint stripper or something to dissolve it. Larry


oliver

IP: 205.188.200.38 Posted on August 11, 2002 at 12:45:05 AM by jake piser

I have a major oil leak coming out of the steering wheel column. The dealer I talked to says I will be opening up a can of worms. Is it really that hard to fix or is there some place I can take the pump off and send it some place to fix it. Thanks, Jake Piser

Re(1): oliver

IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on August 11, 2002 at 09:42:51 PM by Larry Harsin

What model tractor is it? It may not be that bad. It's a seal that has gone bad. If I know what model tractor it is, I may be able to tell you how to fix it. Larry


77 row crop

IP: 205.188.197.187 Posted on August 10, 2002 at 06:07:11 PM by kirk strong

I bought this 77 but I can't get it to run.Iput on a new sentiment bowl, cleaned the carb. Put on new wires,cap rotor,points and condensor and coil.It will turn over but it will not fire.Can you help me? thanks larry

Re(1): 77 row crop

IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on August 11, 2002 at 06:37:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Check and make sure you are getting current down to the coil and distributor. Make sure you are getting spark. You may have to use a jumper wire from the battery down to the coil to give it a try. Larry


rebuilding hercules engine

IP: 216.76.206.28 Posted on August 9, 2002 at 06:45:54 PM by Glen

Sir, I need to do a rebuilding job on my little 4 cylinder hercules. Need to find a rock bottom price on kits, because I would like to build at least a half dozen more of these. Also ,if you could recommend a shop that may do a professional job rebuilding at a very fair price.Thank you very much, Glen

Re(1): rebuilding hercules engine

IP: 209.163.7.80 Posted on August 10, 2002 at 06:16:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Landis Zimmerman 717-738-2573 or zoc@att.net. Larry


Oliver 70 timing?

IP: 206.40.96.14 Posted on August 9, 2002 at 02:55:15 PM by Willie

I just rebuilt a Oliver 70.The motor is only firing on the middle 2 cyl.the timing marks are correct,and the gears are shimmed correct.all wires have spark,and 145 lbs.of compression in each cyl.the valves are all set to .011,what am I missing that this thing won't run??!!thanx alot.

Re(1): Oliver 70 timing?

IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on August 9, 2002 at 10:15:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Check to see that the spark plug wires run to the proper cylinders. Larry


REBUILD

IP: 207.218.210.60 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 09:23:04 PM by KIM

HI LARRY I AM GOING TO DO A REBUILD WITH LEAVING THE ENGINE IN THE TRACTOR 1650 DEISAL I WILL DROP THE OIL PAN ECT. WHEN I PULL THE SLEEVES OUT WILL THERE BE ANY PROBLEMS GETTING THEM OUT SINCE THEY HAVE BEEN IN THERE FOR OVER 30 YEARS THANKS,KIM

Re(1): REBUILD

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 09:50:09 PM by Larry Harsin

There shouldn't be. I'd reccommend that you use a sleeve puller. Larry


Oliver Model Recommendations?

IP: 12.152.116.130 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 11:02:38 AM by Ed

I'm not Oliver savy, but certainly enjoy the "look" of these tractors. This fall I will be purchasing a small farm. I want a general purpose farm tractor, gas or diesel, over 30 HP. I prefer a 3 point, PTO, and for sure an independent belt drive. Like everyone, I need dependability. Tractor will be used for light farming (under 6 acres) and for stationary antique equipment. What models should I be on the lookout for? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): Oliver Model Recommendations?

IP: 205.188.196.47 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 09:11:58 PM by rwh

Hard to go wrong with a 550 for that size.

Re(2): Oliver Model Recommendations?

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 09:48:16 PM by Larry Harsin

My first choice would be a S55 or a 550. A 1250 or a 1355, any one of those utility tractors built for Oliver by Fiat would be good choices. A S66 or a 660 would have 30 hp and may be easier to find with a belt pulley (or one for it). They are hard to find for a S55 or 550. Larry


Butane mixing chamber

IP: 68.129.19.49 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 06:27:29 AM by Tom Nelson

I have been wrenching on Jeeps,Trucks,Motorcycles,and now Tractors. I am a new owner of a Massey Ferguson MDL#202 with a MDL#220 Back hoe attatched.I enjoy working on it almost as much as my harley.I have no complaints"yet" with the massey,But my father in law owns an Oliver about the same size as massey 202 with loader,and gannon attachments,maybe a 1960's model.It runs on Butane,he can not find anybody in this town that seems to know anything about the mixing chamber unit that converts the butane from liquid to gas.Would it be impossible to find something comparable to what I'm trying to explain. I'm wondering if Oliver ever used butane as fuel, if so where to get the parts needed. Thank anybody and everybody for any help given, TCN.

Re(1): Butane mixing chamber

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 09:41:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Oliver had LP Gas tractors. For parts etc. check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If Tom doesn't have them, he'll know where to send you. You can get an Operator's Manual for the Oliver at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry


Oil pressure Super 55 Diesel

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on August 7, 2002 at 10:08:36 PM by Larry

My Super 55 D pegs the oil pressure guage. I put in another guage and it still pegs the needle to the far right. Is this pressure adjustable. What could be the cause? The former owner had backhoe on it and may have idled the engine for long periods of time. Maybe he set up the pressure.

Re(1): Oil pressure Super 55 Diesel

IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 05:57:04 AM by Larry Harsin

The relief valve on the right front corner of the crankcase is probably stuck. Larry


oliver 70 sleeve

IP: 65.178.232.221 Posted on August 7, 2002 at 09:47:17 PM by Rodger Gingerich

I have an oliver 70 with standard size sleeves. A wrist pin clip came off and scored the sleeve. I have a parts tractor that I am trying to get a sleeve out of, seems impossible,any ideas, or would you have a good used sleeve to sell? thanks. Rodger

Re(1): oliver 70 sleeve

IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on August 8, 2002 at 05:55:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the old engine block to an engine machine shop and have it cleaned in a cleaning tank (cook it out) before you try to disassemble it. Then it will come right out. I do not have a used one. Larry


1650 Steering

IP: 66.119.34.39 Posted on August 6, 2002 at 09:35:47 AM by Matt Fetcho

My 1650 lost its steering a few years ago and I had it worked on by a local shop. The spline on the end of the main shaft stripped out, so to fix it, they cut a keyway in the shaft and collar. This fix lasted a couple years, but it went out again. Instead of spending big money to have it fixed again, I decided to do it myself. After getting it apart I found what appeared to be a sheared key, although, holding the two pieces together you wouldn^(1)t think it used to be one. My first thought was that the shop kind of jerry-rigged my tractor back together. I bought a new key and put it all back together and it worked great, the steering was tighter then when I first got it. I made it through second cutting and I^(1)m starting to get more slop in my steering again. Is this a common problem for this type of steering? My next thought is to tear it apart and cut two more keyways so that I would have three keys instead of just one. Is there a better fix?

Re(1): 1650 Steering

IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on August 7, 2002 at 06:05:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it gets to be a problem. You need to get a new shaft and pitman arm for that steering. The best fix is to put in new parts. You can cobble about so long and then you had better fix it correctly. There is an aftermarket place that is building these parts now and they are more reasonably priced. You'll have to call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The parts today are approx half of what they originally were. I would definitely put new parts in there instead of trying to cobble it. Larry


550 oil pressure

IP: 165.139.71.1 Posted on August 6, 2002 at 09:09:14 AM by Monte McIntosh

Larry, I just purchased a 550 gas. and was wondering what the operating oil pressure was suppose to be. I read that the pressure relief valve is set at 15 lbs. Is that correct? I don't want to damage anything by running to low of oil pressure. Your help would be very much appreaciated. Monte McIntosh

Re(1): 550 oil pressure

IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on August 7, 2002 at 05:57:58 AM by Larry Harsin

12 - 18 lbs is the normal operating oil pressure for that engine. The 15 lbs. is correct. Larry


1550

IP: 63.114.86.231 Posted on August 5, 2002 at 11:54:52 AM by mark shane

larry,im going to service my 1550.the book says to use type A automatic trasmission fluid in the hydra power and i cant find it around here anymore.is there a subsitute that i can use?thanks,mark.

Re(1): 1550

IP: 209.163.7.43 Posted on August 6, 2002 at 07:47:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Use Mercon. That replaces type A fluid. Larry


need more power

IP: 169.207.67.19 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 05:33:48 PM by Harvey Simdon

I own a 1952 Rowcrop 88,it looks and runs great. I take it to horse pulls but don't do very well, I run the same weight setups as other Olivers but do not share their success. What can I do for a little more power without breaking the bank, if possible. I already tried higher octane fuel, new plugs(hotter) new wires, hotter coil. Any info you can provide would help. Thanks

Re(1): need more power

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 08:08:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You have probably done all you can do without spending some money. Larry

Re(2): need more power

IP: 169.207.81.23 Posted on August 5, 2002 at 06:21:22 PM by Harvey Simdon

is there any way to get a little more rpm's out of the engine? It already has been bored, and had new domed pistons installed. This happened a while back, but the tractor was barely used. How many rpm's is too many? I'm pretty sure the crank, and cam are still stock. Thanks for your time, Harvey

Re(3): need more power

IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on August 7, 2002 at 05:55:40 AM by Larry Harsin

You could run it up to 2500 RPM without wrecking it, I think. You'll have to take active coils out of the governor spring or lighten up the governor weights. I really don't like to give advice to tractor pullers as you can tear something up so easily. Larry

Re(4): need more power

IP: 169.207.81.10 Posted on August 7, 2002 at 08:52:58 PM by Harvey Simdon

Thanks for the help Larry, I don't plan to twist the engine too hard. I just need a little more power. I pull in the antique classes at low speed, but some of the fellow pullers seem to have one up on me always. We all basicly run the same type and horsepower tractors. Thanks for your help!


Early 770 Side Tin

IP: 167.142.250.249 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 10:56:45 AM by Jake Bailey

I'm looking for a super straight set of both front and rear left and right early (Red Letter) 770 sheet metal. Anyone with any tin fitting this description, please call (641) 236-0540. Thank You.

Re(1): Early 770 Side Tin

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 08:06:18 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get new unpainted ones from Richard Lynch, 937-456-6686. Larry


S55D Transmission

IP: 216.40.192.110 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 07:27:44 AM by Jim Eberle

I have a S55D which makes a "knack-ah-knack-ah" sound in 2nd and 4th gear. Are transmission parts still available thru dealers or will I have to find used parts? Also, how difficult is this repair and any guesses on the cost if I did this myself?

Re(1): S55D Transmission

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 08:02:51 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get the parts through dealers yet. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. This is a fairly difficult job & I don't know about the cost. You should get an I & T Shop Manual before tackling it. Tom may have one or Mary Ann may have one at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net Larry


tractor and parts

IP: 67.250.198.164 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 00:34:30 AM by Jeff Kartman

larry and sandy, i have been shopping for engine panels for my 88(31462c 1950yr). do you have any? also what are you asking for the 88's you have for sale (g or d)? Thanks Jeff

Re(1): tractor and parts

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 06:21:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I do have a pair of engine panels for a 1950 88. I have $3250 on the 88. It's original, good tin, fender extensions, excellent mechanical condition, tires are original. If you are interested in these, email me. Larry


S55 Gov

IP: 63.27.103.164 Posted on August 3, 2002 at 07:55:53 PM by Noel

Larry, I took the govenor off the Super 55 to replace the seal. It was throwing oil over the front of the engine. When I replace it do I put any oil in it or will it be lubricated by the engine oil? Thanks, Noel

Re(1): S55 Gov

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 06:17:31 AM by Larry Harsin

You don't have to oil it. It feeds oil up to it. Larry


77 RC dsl won't start

IP: 155.80.89.13 Posted on August 3, 2002 at 03:24:58 PM by shannon phelps

I just bought a 1952 77 RC dsl that had been setting for years with fuel in it, but it started and ran fine when I bought it. After hauling it home, I got it to start right off but then it refused to start again. I drained the old fuel and cleaned the sediment bowl then refilled it. I then loosened each injector connection and cranked until fuel leaked out before tightening. I gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired right up so I made a lap around the hay field and then shut it off in the barn. I haven't been able to get it started since. Any suggestions Larry?

Re(1): 77 RC dsl won't start

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 06:15:35 AM by Larry Harsin

When you cleaned the sediment bulb, did you replace the fuel filter or filters? Some of them had 2 filters. If it has had old fuel in it, I would drain that all out and make sure there are no obstructions in the fuel tank before putting in new fuel. Then check the filters again. Larry


770 3pt hitch

IP: 161.184.19.159 Posted on August 2, 2002 at 10:24:32 PM by David Wells

Larry: Thanks for pointing me to the source for manuals etc. The 770 is now running well. What is the availability of a 3 pt hitch? Thanks David

Re(1): 770 3pt hitch

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on August 4, 2002 at 06:10:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Saginaw Co. Tractor Parts is building a new 3 pt. hitch for them. It comes with dual cylinders, center link and stabilizer arms $650. Phone 810-638-5787. www.saginawcountytractor.com Larry


Rubber torsion springs

IP: 209.92.255.18 Posted on August 2, 2002 at 10:42:48 AM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. I am about to buy a set of rubber torsion springs. I have the choice of American made springs at $110 with core exchange or Foreign made at $80 without exchange. Which set would you recommend? I don't know if the Foreign ones are made of rubber or what. Thank you very much for your help. Mike Renner

Re(1): Rubber torsion springs

IP: 209.163.7.43 Posted on August 2, 2002 at 09:54:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I would get the American made springs. The Foreign made springs have been breaking up for guys. Larry

Re(2): Rubber torsion springs

IP: 208.165.192.12 Posted on August 3, 2002 at 01:45:54 AM by Joe

Korves Oliver have a new batch of the Foreign Rubbers in. I bought a pair about a month ago and so far so good. If you are not using the tractor in the field I would save my money and go with the Foreign ones. If you are still putting quite a few hours on it I would stick with the American ones.


oliver vulcan brazer

IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 05:18:09 PM by jim

Hi, I have a" vulcan brazer " made by Oliver Co. and was wondering what it was used for. Thanks, Jim

Re(1): oliver vulcan brazer

IP: 209.163.7.45 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 09:22:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Oliver did build some tools or bought out a company that made tools. I think they were made at Shelbyville IL. This sounds like a blacksmithing tool or some such tool. I never got into the tools and what they made. Larry


Oliver 620 hay baler parts/manual

IP: 209.151.96.69 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 10:28:20 AM by Thomas Prather

I am looking for Oliver 620 hay baler parts and a service manual for the same. Help!! Also, who bought out Oliver and who handles parts now?

Re(1): Oliver 620 hay baler parts/manual

IP: 209.163.7.12 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 09:08:58 PM by Larry Harsin

AGCO handles some of the parts now. They don't have all parts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, for your parts. You can get a manual at Charles City. Email at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry


TIMING

IP: 207.218.202.53 Posted on July 31, 2002 at 09:10:36 PM by KIM

HI LARRY I PUT MY NEW INJECTOR PUMP ON MY 1650 DEISAL TODAY I HAVE ONE PROBLEM? I NEED TO LINE UP THE TIMING OF THE PUMP WITH THE ENGINE I HAVE THE MARKS LINED UP ON THE INJECTION PUMP BUT I AM NOT TO SURE ABOUT HOW TELL IF THE PISTON ON NUMBER ONE CYLINDER IS AT TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE AS THE MANUAL SAYS YOU MUST DO COULD YOU GIVE ANY TIPS ON THIS?? THANKS KIM.

Re(1): TIMING

IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 06:04:36 AM by Larry Harsin

If you took the old pump off with the marks lined up, the engine will be timed on TDC number 1. Larry

Re(2): TIMING

IP: 207.218.209.190 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 10:49:59 AM by KIM

WELL I DID NOT DO THAT??? AND NOW I KNOW I SHOULD OF ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!! KIM

Re(3): TIMING

IP: 208.10.124.213 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 11:11:12 AM by Larry from Maryland

Well you can remove the energy cell on the opposite side of the engine for the number one cylinder .Then crank the engine and feel the compression with your finger(make sure the pump wont squirt fuel).Or remove the valve cover and watch the valves.Or hook it all up and see if it starts,if it wont hit the fuel will leak past the rings into the oil pan.If you crank it with the energy cell out you should be able to see compression escape before the injector fires,don't stand in front of the hole.Now you know why I mentioned lining up the marks before removal in my other reply.

Re(4): TIMING

IP: 216.12.217.73 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 03:12:28 PM by KIM

HI LARRY I AM ON MY WAY TO TRY THAT WISH ME LUCK AND NOW I KNOW WHY MY WIFE SAYS I DONT LISTEN THANK YOU, KIM

Re(5): TIMING

IP: 207.218.200.191 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 10:13:21 PM by KIM

HI LARRY IT TOOK ME 6 TIMES AND 4 HOURS LATER BUT I GOT IT AND SHE.S RUNNING GREAT!!! THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP!!


parts

IP: 66.133.132.218 Posted on July 31, 2002 at 12:35:12 AM by Paul

Do you know where i can get a knob connecter tractor lamp switch for a 550 oliver tractor cerial # 60510-. thank you

Re(1): parts

IP: 209.163.7.43 Posted on July 31, 2002 at 07:38:22 PM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't know. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(1): parts

IP: 208.165.192.69 Posted on July 31, 2002 at 11:15:09 PM by Ken

You might try Korves Oliver. www.korvesoliver.com


Oliver 500 Diesel

IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on July 31, 2002 at 11:49:49 AM by Paul C

Looking for engine parts rings, valves(intake and exhaust), motor overhaul gasket set etc. I am coming to the Summer Show in Cedar Falls in Aug. Any information would be helpful.

Re(1): Oliver 500 Diesel

IP: 209.163.7.43 Posted on July 31, 2002 at 07:36:25 PM by Larry Harsin

That's was built by David Brown. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


PUMP

IP: 207.218.202.214 Posted on July 29, 2002 at 10:35:51 PM by KIM

HI LARRY I WROTE LAST WEEK ABOUT MY 1650 DEISAL WITH THE COFFEE LOOKING GRINDS IN THE FUEL AFTER I TOOK OFF THE TIMING COVER ON THE INJECTION PUMP. I ORDER A PUMP FROM THE COMPANY YOU HAD SUGGESTED. MY QUESTION IS IN THE BOOK IT SAD TO TAKE OFF THE TIMING GEAR COVER AND REMOVE THE THRUST BOTTON AND SPRING FROM THE END OF THE DRIVE SHAFT . WELL I DID'NT HAVE TO DO ANY OF THAT!? THE DRIVE SHAFT GEAR AND HUB CAME RIGHT OUT! I WAS SUPRISE HOW EASY IT CAME OUT AND WAS WONDERING IS THIS NORMAL.?? ANYWAY, I AM GOING TO PUT THE NEW PUMP ON TOMMOROW AND HOPEFULLY EVERYTHING WILL GO AS SMOOTH AS IT DID TODAY!! THANKS, KIM

Re(1): PUMP

IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on July 30, 2002 at 07:45:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, That comes apart very easily. However, when you go to reassemble it, you will have to be very careful when installing the pump drive shaft to insure that the seal installs properly. Also, you will probably have to unbolt the gear from the pump drive hub in order to properly time the pump. Larry


77 DIESEL

IP: 12.87.141.55 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 07:57:56 PM by DAN LONG

I HAVE A 1951 77 DIESEL I PULL AT TRACTOR PULLS. IT RUNS WELL BUT NOT POWERFULL ENOUGH. RUNS OUT OF POWER AT 150 FT MARK IN 4500# CLASS HAS GOOD COMPRESSION 350-400 PSI. ANY IDEAS? ANY CHEAP POWER SECRETS WOULD BE VERY HELPFULL THANKS DAN

Re(1): 77 DIESEL

IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 09:20:12 PM by Larry Harsin

The best thing I would know to do is put in 3 and 5/8 inch pistons. I'm not into tractor pulling. That would increase the displacement of the engine. Possibly you could upgrade the head to a S77 or 770 head. Larry

Re(1): 77 DIESEL

IP: 12.87.141.13 Posted on August 1, 2002 at 08:33:45 PM by DAN LONG

DO YOU KNOW IF 770 DIESEL PISTONS AND SLEEVES WILL FIT THIS ENGINE WITH NO TROUBLE. AND WILL A 770 HEAD BOLT RIGHT ON.

Re(2): 77 DIESEL

IP: 209.163.7.43 Posted on August 2, 2002 at 09:57:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they will both fit. Larry


purchasing a 770

IP: 209.240.228.238 Posted on July 27, 2002 at 10:36:26 PM by john wesely

I have the opportunity to purchase a 770 wide front with a Paulson all hydraulic loader for $2800. The man selling it is as honest as they come and says it is a great tractor. The problem is that it doesn't have a 3point or power steering, if it did I would haver purchased it right away. Can these 2 items be added and if so is it cost efficient. Thanks for your time.

Re(1): purchasing a 770

IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 06:57:37 AM by Larry Harsin

They can be added and it is cost effective. If it is a nice tractor, it is definitely worth $2800. Larry


550

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 27, 2002 at 10:05:57 PM by paul

larry i was going to buy a 550 when i drove it i had to choke it to keep it runnin. it ran good pulling a 6 foot 3pt mower in 1-2-3 but when i put it in 4-5 it would fall flat on its face like it had no power. it didn't blow smoke or run hot after half an hour. what do you think? how munch do you think it would be worth thanks paul.

Re(1): 550

IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 06:54:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd try to buy it. It depends on how complete and what the overall appearance is and what the tires are like. I like to get them bought for under $4000, but they are getting more valuable every year. It sounds like the fuel system needs to be cleaned up on it. Larry


Original ollie manuals

IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on July 27, 2002 at 08:26:38 PM by Don

Hi Larry- I have recently found 2 oliver manuals, one for a hart part 70, the other a 77. 70 is a little rough, cover is ripped off but is there, and the 77 is in perfect, mint condition. How much would you think them to be worth? Don

Re(1): Original ollie manuals

IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 06:51:05 AM by Larry Harsin

The 70 Manual is probably worth $15 and the 77 Manual is probably worth $25. I'll buy them both if you want to sell them. Larry

Re(2): Original ollie manuals

IP: 205.188.208.105 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 10:31:33 PM by Don

I'm not selling, I'm just saving them and I was just a little curious about their current value. the rest are for JD planters and Gehl implements.


oliver1250 for sale

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 27, 2002 at 06:56:26 PM by frank gilbert

I have a oliver 1250 diesel runs no rust complete needs fuel injector pump repair 750.00 location new orleans area

Re(1): oliver1250 for sale

IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 06:44:07 AM by Larry Harsin

If we weren't so far away, we'd buy it. Larry


1550 oliver diesel tractor

IP: 142.166.243.170 Posted on July 26, 2002 at 11:11:43 AM by kim

Looking for some help. My husband and I have a chance to purchase a 1550 diesel oliver for $5000. I need to know if you think this is a good value for the tractor. Itss in running condition. I guess its from the mid-fiftys. This is our first tractor and I am trying to find info on it and having a hard time. Can you still find parts pretty easy also. Thank You for any advice you could give...Kim

Re(1): 1550 oliver diesel tractor

IP: 209.163.7.14 Posted on July 26, 2002 at 08:51:22 PM by Larry Harsin

1550's are a real high demand tractor. There is more demand than there is tractors. As far as I know parts are available. The 1550 is a good tractor. I think 1550's are over priced compared to 1650's. With the 1650 you get more value for your dollar. I have 2 1650's that you can have choice for $4500. One has a new motor in it. The other one has all new tires. They are both excellent tractors. If you purchase the 1550, you should get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend, if one doesn't come with it. You can email her at: hpocacc@fiai.net. This would give you the info that you need. If you send the serial number to us, we can tell you the year it was built. The 1550 was introduced in the fall of 1964 and were made up into the 70's. In the 70's, they began making the 1555. Larry


S55 sputtering

IP: 63.27.103.66 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 08:33:28 PM by Noel

Thanks much for the help. It was a large piece of dirt in the fuel line. As you said, the dirty fuel tank was the culprit. Thanks again, Noel

Re(1): S55 sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 10:18:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Great!! Glad you found the problem. Enjoy your S55. Larry


Starter / Battery

IP: 216.95.136.203 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 06:26:33 PM by Richard E. Turner

I have a 66 that is hard to start. Its a 6 volt system and its very rare that the starter will start it. It seems you have barely enough battery to turn the starter over. I can pull it and it starts within 5 or 6 feet. Any suggestions?

Re(1): Starter / Battery

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 10:16:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I would reccomend that you change it over to a 12 volt system. All you will need to buy is a resistor for the ignition coil, a new 12 volt regulator and 12 volt light bulbs if you want to use your lights. Larry


1650 DIESAL

IP: 207.218.209.173 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 05:39:36 PM by KIM

HELLO LARRY'S I PULLED THE COVER OFF THE PUMP AND SURE NUFF THERE WERE THE COFFEE GRINDS?!! SO DOES THIS MEAN I SHOULD REBUILD THE PUMP OR REPLACE THE GOVONER RING?? IF I NEED TO REBUILD DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA OF THE COST AND WHO COULD I SEND TO FOR REPAIRS THANKS AGAIN,KIM

Re(1): 1650 DIESAL

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 10:14:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I would send the pump to be repaired. There is a place in Estherville IA that does good work and they are reputable. It will cost approx. $450 exchange. It is Central Fuel Injection Service Co. Their website is: www.centralfuelinjection.com or their phone is: 712-362-4200. Larry

Re(2): 1650 DIESAL

IP: 207.218.215.179 Posted on July 24, 2002 at 01:47:12 PM by KIM

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP KIM


Should I buy a 880D?

IP: 165.200.92.58 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 09:28:46 AM by doug

We've got 120 acres of crp and trees to maintain. My ford 8n just ain't enough tractor and the local dealer is getting a 880d with a loader in on trade. Is the oliver 880D a good tractor? Are there any known problems inherit to 880D? What are some areas I should pay attention to when considering to buy or walk? What would be a fair price for a 880D with a loader? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Lastly, is the diesel engine a good choice for a tractor that is only going to see around 40 hours of infrequent use each year and no winter use?

Re(1): Should I buy a 880D?

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 10:05:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The 880D is a good tractor. With a loader and if it is in good condition, I would say it is worth $2750 - $4500. There are so many variables that it is hard for me to put a value on it sight unseen. I would reccomend that you try the tractor on approval and see if you like it. The diesel would be a good choice for the amount of work that you want to do. Larry

Re(2): Should I buy a 880D?

IP: 68.115.115.142 Posted on July 24, 2002 at 07:26:17 AM by Doug

I don't know if this changes the value, but this tractor has the factory 3 point hitch. Their asking $4500. I'll inspect and drive the tractor on Friday. I appreciate the information and opinion.

Re(3): Should I buy a 880D?

IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on July 25, 2002 at 06:20:40 AM by Larry Harsin

With a 3 pt. it will be worth more than what I quoted. I hope you like the 880. Larry


Oil Additive?

IP: 64.19.85.106 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 04:38:22 AM by kris

I just purchased an 880 gas and was reading the manual and noticed everything requires an oliver additive to the oil.Is this really required and still available?I also noticed 4 small cracks around the transmission cover at each corner of the hump in front of the seat..any thing to get excited about?I plan on fixing them just wondering what might have caused this.Thanks

Re(1): Oil Additive?

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 06:28:43 AM by Larry Harsin

The additive is no longer available. You don't need an additive. The cracks are an 880 thing. You can just weld them. When they were made in the first place the metal was stretched too far causing them to be weak. Larry


RC60

IP: 12.92.46.94 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 08:29:17 PM by Richard

I have what I believe is a 1948 RC60 and would like to restore it.I am looking for a engine rebuild kit.I also need a wire diagram or a good repair manual. thanks

Re(1): RC60

IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 09:31:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Mary Ann at Charles City and ask for a Shop Manual and an Operator's Manual. hpocacc@fiai.net I think Korves Bros. have rebuild kits for a 60RC. Their website is: www.korvesoliver.com or their email is korves@htc.net. Larry


Carborator Venturi

IP: 209.206.228.162 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 03:09:21 PM by Gary Riecke

Hi Larry Took the carborator off my Oliver 70 this morning to rebuild it. When I opened it up discovered the venturi was not there. Even since I got this tractor running it has run "uneven". I've replaced all the electrical side of things with no improvement. This probably explains why. At any rate, any suggestions on where I obtain a new venturi? This is Oliver 70 SN 261952. Manufactured in 1947. Zenith carborator BS-393-J Another carborator number - 10002 I see from my service manual for this tractor Oliver used a number of Zenith carborators over the years on this tractor. Can I assume any venturi from a similar Zenith would probably be ok or should I try to get one from this exact model. Thanks again. Gary

Re(1): Carborator Venturi

IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 09:27:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I might have one for a B-393-J. I'll check my parts and let you know in the morning. Larry

Re(2): Carborator Venturi

IP: 209.163.7.67 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 07:18:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Hi Gary! I guess I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1650

IP: 207.218.201.140 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 10:16:29 PM by KIM

HI LARRY I RECENTLY WROTE YOU ABOUT MY 1650 DIESAL THE TRACTOR WILL START AND RUN FINE AND THEN IT SEEMS TO LOSE POWER AND DIES OUT AFTER ABOUT 1 MINUTE OF RUNNING. I RAN IT ABOUT HALF THROTTLE AND SHE SLOWLY DIES OUT. I CAN WAIT AROUND 30 SECONDS OR SO AND SHE WILL START BACK UP AND DOES THE SAME I CHECK THE OIL AND IT IS FINE AND THE VALVES ARE FINE ALSO THE FUEL PRESSURE IS OK , THIS TRACTOR HAS LOW COMMPRESSION AND I HAVE TO SPRAY EITHER TO GET IT STARTED BUT AFTER SHE WARMS UP THEN I DONT HAVE SPRAY EITHER!! THE INJECTORS HAVE BEEN CHECKED ALSO I DID NOTICE ON THE EXHUST SIDE THE PIPE ON THE LAST THREE CYLINDERS SEEM WET? I ALSO CHECK THE RETURN FUEL LINE AND IT SEEMS FINE. GAS CAP ECT. I WOULD APPRECIATE YOUR HELP THANK YOU,KIM

Re(1): 1650

IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 10:23:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Check your fuel filters to make sure you are getting a good supply of fuel. Check your fuel tank to make sure there isn't something in there obstructing the fuel flow. If all these check out, you may have an injection pump that has a governor ring that is breaking up internally. Larry

Re(2): 1650

IP: 216.12.217.10 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 09:29:10 AM by KIM

HI LARRY YES SIR, I HAVE DONE ALL THAT AND I RECKON I WILL PULL THE INJECTOR PUMP OFF AND HAVE IT REBUILT WHAT TEST COULD I PULL TO MAKE SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM IF ANY AND DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT COST ARE INVOLVED THANK YOU VERY MUCH,KIM

Re(3): 1650

IP: 208.10.124.249 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 11:33:47 AM by Larry from Maryland

The test for a broken govener ring is to remove the small timeing window on the side of the pump,fuel will run out.Try to catch it in something and crank the engine,if coffie ground looking chuncks come out with the fuel then its broke.You will need to open this window and aline the timeing marks anyway to remove the pump.You could have a plugged safety screen or a plugged return line or fitting so don't rush to remove that pump.

Re(4): 1650

IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 09:22:53 PM by Larry Harsin

These are very good suggestions. I don't have a thing to add to them. Larry

Re(4): 1650

IP: 207.218.215.36 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 02:13:34 PM by KIM

HI LARRY YOUR RIGHT AGAIN I TOOK OFF THE COVER AND WHEN THE FUEL COME OUT THE GRANUALES WERE THERE!! SO DOES THIS MEAN I SHOULD REBUILD THE PUMP OR JUST REPLACE THIS GOVENOR RING?


super 88 power steering

IP: 207.40.123.80 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 08:47:31 PM by gene bustle

i have 57 s88 with steering problems. steering was sloppy but easy,but as i try to adjust slop from steering gear it gets hard to steer.local dealer thinks i may have preasure problem,do you have any thoughts or should i change to manual steering

Re(1): super 88 power steering

IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 10:18:52 PM by Larry Harsin

What kind of power steering unit do you have? Is it a factory p.s. or a Char-Lynn or other? I can repair some of the factory power steering units. I can repair the unit under the radiator. Larry

Re(2): super 88 power steering

IP: 207.40.123.143 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 09:30:04 PM by gene bustle

my power steering unit is under the radiator. i have been told it is a saginaw. can you give me a close price to repair? do you have the sliding shaft for an oliver70rc that the gear shift moves up and back to select the upper or lower gear pattern? what is this shaft called and how much is one if you have any.

Re(3): super 88 power steering

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on July 23, 2002 at 09:59:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I can't tell you the cost without taking it apart and checking it. I could do an exchange for $300 or I could repair yours on a time and material basis and it would probably be less than that. This shaft is called the center shifting rail. I might have a used one. I will need to know the serial number of your 70 to know if the one I have is right. If I have one, it will be $30 plus shipping. Larry

Re(4): super 88 power steering

IP: 207.40.123.158 Posted on July 25, 2002 at 03:44:51 PM by gene bustle

thanks for the info on my power steering problem, i think i will ship mine to you. as you go through the unit do you replace seals and/or gaskets? the serial number on my 70 is 229293 if you the center shifting rail i want to buy one

Re(5): super 88 power steering

IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on July 28, 2002 at 07:06:04 AM by Larry Harsin

That's fine. I replace anything that I think needs replacing if I am able to find it. Some parts are getting hard to find. Your 70 is a 1939 model. I do have the center shifting rail. Our address is: Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334. Phone: 712-362-2966. Larry


1800 clutch

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 12:49:50 AM by nat

on my 1800a the throwout bearing pilot tube came out of the bellhousing. i replaced the tube , bearing and sleeve. when reassembling the driveshaftthe chain coupler has enough play to allow the driveshaft to scrape on the inside of the pilot tube. is there supposed to be anything besides the chain to keep the sprockets in the coupler lined up. thanks.

Re(1): 1800 clutch

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 04:51:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. You will probably have to get a new chain coupler. If that doesn't fix it, you'll have to get new sprockets also. Larry


oliver cultivator

IP: 65.82.173.81 Posted on July 20, 2002 at 10:08:52 AM by Frank Dodson

I am restoring an Oliver two row cultivator model 372 serial 3593. I need the following: Year of production Color entire cultivator green or were the shanks and spring feet black? Thanks

Re(1): oliver cultivator

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 04:57:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I would guess that the cultivator was green with black spring feet. They were both ways so which ever way you like it is o.k. Possibly you could detect some paint spots someplace to tell you what it had been. Our information doesn't pin point year of production. I would guess the early 60's. Contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. Possibly she can tell you more accurately. Larry


770 Front End Conversion

IP: 24.171.65.170 Posted on July 19, 2002 at 03:51:08 PM by Mike Brandt

I was wondering if it is possible to convert an Oliver 770 with a narrow front end to a wide front end. If possible to you have any helpful hints for the conversion.

Re(1): 770 Front End Conversion

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 04:48:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can put a Wide Front end on it. Does it have factory power steering? You will have to know that to get the proper front end. I have a wide front for a manual steering 770. Email me if you can use it. Larry

Re(2): 770 Front End Conversion

IP: 24.171.65.170 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 06:46:53 AM by Mike Brandt

Yes, it has factory power steering. What do you want for the wide front with the manual steering? Mike

Re(3): 770 Front End Conversion

IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on July 22, 2002 at 09:18:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I sent you an email today. Larry


Oliver 1655 Over/Under

IP: 68.102.104.205 Posted on July 19, 2002 at 10:34:30 AM by Larry Hagedorn

I just bought a Oliver 1655 that runs real good. It has a Dual front end loader with a PTO pump. I have two questions. With the PTO pump attached, I am not able to hook up a PTO implement. Is there an PTO adapter that will allow both the pump and another implement to work? Also, there is a note attached to pump that says "Do not attach PTO adapter to this pump without being shielded." A post hole digger's third point cannot attach to the stabilizer, because it is turned the wrong way. As you probably know, thCere are two arms that is shaped like a "C" on the back of the tractor. Is there a way to change this to use a post hole digger? Thanks, Larry

Re(1): Oliver 1655 Over/Under

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on July 21, 2002 at 04:56:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it is possible to buy an adapter to use PTO implements with the pump installed. However, you will have to allow for the change in the distance where you attach the implement. Implement Supply Stores such as Tom Hassenfritz Equipment (T.H.E.) should be able to supply you with an adapter. 800-634-4885. For the post hole digger, you may have to go to a welding and machine shop and have them fabricate the necessary bracket so that you can use your post hole digger on that tractor. Larry


1250 A clutch

IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 05:42:44 PM by Kevin Doyle

I have been advised to purchase a new clutch for my Oliver 1250 A diesel. It is a 10 inch double clutch. I don't know if anyone makes a new clutch for the 1250 A. Will a rebuilt clutch last? what about a resurfaced pressure plate? thanks, Kevin

Re(1): 1250 A clutch

IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 10:22:52 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not experienced on the 1250 A but there are parts available. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Or check with Danny Bowes in Canada. He has parts for Fiats. I believe his website is: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry


1650 Clutch

IP: 66.119.33.167 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 04:10:10 PM by Matt Fetcho

The clutch on my 1650 squeals when its let out in low gear. It also recently started staying in gear when the clutch is pushed in. Is there a simple solution, or a clutch rebuild?

Re(1): 1650 Clutch

IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 10:18:12 PM by Larry Harsin

You are just going to have to take it apart and see what is wrong. The facings could be breaking up or the fingers on the pressure plate could be bad. You could have a bad throw-out bearing for a few suggestions. Larry


S55 Ignition switch

IP: 63.26.248.110 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 09:50:13 PM by Noel

Alright, I figured I'd start a new page for this question. The ignition switch on the 55 with the sputtering problem will not turn off the engine. It will start and run, but when you turn the key off it still runs and I have to turn off the gas to get it to stop. I did put new gauges in the dash and think I must have caused an ignition short. Can you tell me where the wires on the ammeter should hook up to. This tractor has an alternator in place of the generator. One wire comes out of the back of the alternator and runs to the ignition switch terminal. On this same terminal another wire is attached that goes to the coil. A second terminal is connected to the top terminal on the solenoid. And a third terminal on the ignition switch runs to the solenoid where the positive wire from the battery connects. I have the ammeter hooked to the alternator on one terminal and the positive pole of the battery on the other terminal. Do I have this thing wired right? Thanks, Noel

Re(1): S55 Ignition switch

IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 10:15:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not positive and I can't send you a diagram as that is not the way the tractor was built. Our conversation on the phone this morning pretty much hashed this out for you I think. Larry


1655 Power Steering Leak

IP: 207.190.93.41 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 08:15:46 AM by Mark

I have a pinhole leak in the pipe that runs from the flow diverter valve on the hydraulic unit to the power steering hydromotor. Leak is located where the pipe makes a 180 degree bend coming from under the platform up to the steering column. What is the best way to replace/repair this?

Re(1): 1655 Power Steering Leak

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 09:06:19 PM by Larry Harsin

If the pipe is not rotten, you could take it to a welding shop and have it brazed. Otherwise, you can have a new one made or get one from your AGCO dealer. Larry


550 Oliver front main seal

IP: 166.82.52.182 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 04:53:29 PM by Randy Plyler

I had my motor rebuilt.He gave me a seal that looks like a metal ring with a cork seal glued to it. He told me this slid over the crank shaft and then the pully goes on.If I put this on, then the pully won't go on enough to start the bolt.Is this the right seal, or am I putting it on wrong? There is a felt seal behind the timeing cover already.If you can help, email me at raneply@vnet.net

Re(1): 550 Oliver front main seal

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 08:33:00 PM by Larry Harsin

The cork seal sits inside the cover and rubs against the cover. Before installing this seal, check to see that the seal will slide over the hub of the crankshaft pulley. If it binds, you will have to use some emery paper or sand paper and emery out the inside bore of that seal so that it will slide freely on the crankshaft pulley hub. Then install the seal onto the crankshaft. The seal will sit against the timing gear. Then install the timing cover and place the felt in the groove in the cover, install the crankshaft pulley and insure with the cap screw. Larry


S55 Sputtering

IP: 63.27.103.194 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 05:29:40 AM by Noel

Alright, Got the old girl out of the garage last night to use the finish mower. When cold, she pulled the mower just fine for about 30 feet, then she seemed like she was running out of gas, sputtering under the load of running the mower, RPM's would then start to swing between fast and slow without touching the control lever under the steering wheel. I have a hunch it is the governor. Any thoughts as to the cause and solution? Thanks much, Noel

Re(1): S55 Sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 06:12:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't believe it's the governor. It's either not getting enough gas or the spark is getting weak. Possibly there is some dirt in your gas tank. Larry

Re(2): S55 Sputtering

IP: 208.196.35.15 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 08:55:58 AM by Noel

There is a ton of crud coming out into the sediment bowl. I'll clean that out. How do I get more spark to the plugs, and what type of new plugs should I put in it? Thanks, Noel

Re(3): S55 Sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 01:02:23 PM by Larry Harsin

You could put in a C86 AC plug or a UD16 Champion plug. If you get all that crud out of the gas tank and sediment bowl, you may not need spark plugs. Larry

Re(4): S55 Sputtering

IP: 67.241.79.243 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 08:27:30 PM by Noel

I washed out a respectable 1 cup of various solids from the fuel tank. However I am still having the sputtering after the tractor runs for about 15 minutes. It does seem as if it is running out of fuel. Now I still have to clean the carb before I am done with the fuel system being the problem. However when I was checking the spark plugs I noticed that the coil is extremely hot after running the tractor. Is this normal? Plugs look good, wires are good, disributor looks fine inside. Any thoughts? Thanks, Noel

Re(5): S55 Sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 08:35:35 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have a bad coil. Larry

Re(6): S55 Sputtering

IP: 63.27.103.251 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 05:45:56 AM by Noel

The one that is on there is badly rusted. This tractor has an alternator on it. Is there a specific coil I should ask for at the parts counter? Thanks, Noel

Re(7): S55 Sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.45 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 05:58:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Just get a 12 volt ignition coil. Larry

Re(8): S55 Sputtering

IP: 208.196.35.15 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 07:14:09 AM by Noel

I took it off this morning before I left for work and noticed it is full of fluid. Is there supposed to be fluid in there? Thanks, Noel

Re(9): S55 Sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 09:03:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is oil filled. Larry

Re(9): S55 Sputtering

IP: 208.10.125.77 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 11:26:53 AM by Larry from Maryland

You should get a 12 volt coil with an internal resitor,or you will need to add a resitor to a plain coil.The napa number is Ic14 for the coil,or ICR13 for the resitor to use with a Chevy type coil.You get much less heat and less burning of the points and condenser if you use thease parts.

Re(10): S55 Sputtering

IP: 63.26.248.110 Posted on July 17, 2002 at 09:30:18 PM by Noel

New internal resistor coil, points and condenser installed. Still sputters. So I started messing with the throttle/govenor linkages. I have set the low throttle setting as the service manual states, but when it comes to setting the full throttle setting to 2200 RPM, I can not adjust the linkage so that the engine will stop at 2200, it wants to race much past 2200. But, not it does not sputter under load. The problem now is that a small change in the throttle lever under the steering wheel leads to a large increase in engine RPM. I have to gingerly bump it in order to get the right engine RPM, and frequently after I get to to a 540 PTO speed it will increase on it's own. Any thoughts? Thanks, Noel

Re(11): S55 Sputtering

IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 10:27:11 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to get the governor syncronized with the carburator. You have to set it with the throttle lever in the wide open position. Then adjust the length of the threaded rod between the governor arm and the carburator so that the threaded rod is about an eight of an inch longer than the distance between the two. Larry

Re(11): S55 Sputtering

IP: 67.241.79.6 Posted on July 18, 2002 at 09:36:45 PM by Noel

OK, That made all the difference. My I&t manual says to set opposite of the way it should be set. It even shows a picture of setting the lever in the forward position! Anyway, I am well on the way to getting it working with a little more adjustment tomorrow. Thank you very much for the help. It is greatly appreciated. Noel Putman


Olver 70 Generator Cutout Relay specs.

IP: 209.206.226.174 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 04:18:19 PM by G.Riecke

Need to adjust the Air Gap, Point Gap and Closing Voltage on the Delco Remy generator cutout relay. Need the specifications. Delco Remy Cutout number is - 1116809. Thanks Gary

Re(1): Olver 70 Generator Cutout Relay specs.

IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 07:03:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Hi Gary. Thanks for signing our Guest Book. Good to hear from a "local". Yes, I have heard of your Dad. I will need to check the info for your question in my Shop Manual in the morning. I will get back to you on this. Billie Hoekstra is my Aunt. Larry

Re(2): Olver 70 Generator Cutout Relay specs.

IP: 209.206.224.53 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 09:12:22 PM by G.Riecke

Thanks Larry There's no big rush on the info, I'm just doing this restoration in my spare time. The only Hoekstra I knew was Jake Hoekstra who was a teacher in Ruthven when my dad was in school. Is this any relation? Gary

Re(3): Olver 70 Generator Cutout Relay specs.

IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 06:09:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the info that you need. You need to talk to a Delco Remy place. Check with Johnston Automotive at Spencer. 712-262-1170. Jake Hoekstra was Billie's husband. She was also a teacher. Larry

Re(4): Olver 70 Generator Cutout Relay specs.

IP: 209.206.229.148 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 08:54:53 AM by G.Riecke

Larry I have found some cutout relay specs for a Delco Remy cutout whose part number is 1116807. The number on my cutout is 1116809. Do you feel the specs for 1116807 would be the same for 1116809? Thanks again. Gary

Re(5): Olver 70 Generator Cutout Relay specs.

IP: 209.163.7.85 Posted on July 16, 2002 at 01:04:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. You will have to ask a Delco Remy guy. Larry


buying a tractor

IP: 208.15.26.133 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 12:30:45 AM by Jazmin

I've fallen in love with the Oliver tractor.I'm thinking about buying one what one would you recomend for me?I would like an old Oliver.

Re(1): buying a tractor

IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 07:00:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what age you are or what you plan to do with the tractor, but a good place to start would be with a 60, a 66 or a 77. They aren't high dollar tractors to buy and the parts are plentiful. Larry


550 pto clutch

IP: 209.248.7.61 Posted on July 14, 2002 at 08:09:21 PM by Dennis

Larry i have a OLiver 550 diesel. Is there any way to adjust the clutch for the pto? And if so whats the easiest way? It runs all the time and slips while mowing tall grass. Thanks

Re(1): 550 pto clutch

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 06:25:21 AM by Larry Harsin

It's probably going to require more than an adjustment. It sounds like the metal plates are warped. You may have to split this tractor and replace the clutch plates. If you need a Shop Manual, contact Mary Ann at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry

Re(1): 550 pto clutch

IP: 207.16.136.21 Posted on July 26, 2002 at 12:03:43 AM by Greg S

This is a pretty big job. Just going through it on my 550. You can try adjusting through the bottom of the center frame through the access plate. Take a good look through the access hole with a mirror and a flashlight. Clutch is very unique as it's a multiple disk inside a spider gear. It'll be hard to see much, but if it's real cruddy in there then that could cause the same problem as warped plates. You'll need 5 driven plates (clutch discs) and 4 driving plates (steel plates). These go for about $25 ea....try Korves Brothers. Be very careful on the disassembly of the clutch pack. The scalloped adjusting nut goes for $170, the hub $340, etc. etc. Retaining nut on the PTO shaft is staked on so you'll have to cut it. Be very careful not to slice into the PTO gear! Good luck


S55 Steering Box

IP: 63.27.103.238 Posted on July 14, 2002 at 08:32:06 AM by Noel

Which bolt on top of the steering box is the one through which I fill the lubricant on a Super 55? Thanks, Noel

Re(1): S55 Steering Box

IP: 208.10.124.235 Posted on July 14, 2002 at 09:13:41 AM by Larry from Maryland

You fill it from the bottem bolt hole.Its one of the ones that hold the arm bearings in.If your seals are leaking use deere cornhead grease.Just unscrew the tip of your grease gun and stick it in the hole.

Re(2): S55 Steering Box

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 06:26:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I concur. I have to do this to the S55 that Sandy just purchased. Larry


880 , runs rough

IP: 12.161.110.40 Posted on July 14, 2002 at 00:39:56 AM by John Journell

Larry , I asked you last month about an 880 gas that was stuck , I have it unstuck , and running , I have checked the the points , set them , put in new d-21 champions , new plug wires , flushed the gas tank , cleaned the sediment bulb and screen , had the carb rebuilt , then took it apart and checked the work myself , ( after it would not run right } , changed the oil in the breather . I had the manifolds trued and milled , new copper sealing rings , but this tractor still will not idle correctly , kind of miss fires with no load , will not start with out pulling the choke , BUT runs like a champ under any kind of a load . And yes I have run a compression test , and checked and set the valve clearances . What is wrong with this tractor ? My neighbors are teasing me , trying to tell me that it is a racing Oliver , that is kind of what it sounds like . I am baffled . Any ideas ? Thanks , John

Re(1): 880 , runs rough

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on July 15, 2002 at 06:21:29 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the idle circuit in the carb is not working. That would be the first thing I would check. Another possibility would be worn valve guides on the intake side causing it to have enough air leakage to upset the proper air to fuel mixture. Finally, it might be that one of the intake valves is not seating properly and this would make it run poorly at low speeds. If this were my tractor, I would be tempted to remove the cylinder head and give it a valve job. Larry


Transmission S55

IP: 63.26.248.170 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 09:12:42 PM by Noel

OK, got the tractor back together. Now the transmission is really shifting hard. It is difficult to get the tractor in and out of gears. The clutch was stuck before hence the tractor split and new clutch parts. I'm worried that the gears were grinding for the previous owners for too long and there is some gear damage. Any thoughts as to the cause? Thanks much for helping me get the old girl back to work.

Re(1): Transmission S55

IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on July 13, 2002 at 05:53:11 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds to me like your clutch isn't releasing properly yet. Larry

Re(2): Transmission S55

IP: 63.27.103.219 Posted on July 13, 2002 at 08:12:47 AM by Noel

OK, I'll readjust. Thanks, Noel


70 pulley

IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 08:18:41 PM by paul vandergraft

larry i have a 1948 70 the belt pulley spins freeley by hand. but dose not work when i use the pto the splined shaft is installed and i know the pulley is good i have yet to pull up the floor bord to see whats wrong i have looked at junkyard tractors and saw the aluminum ring under the floor board could it be broke

Re(1): 70 pulley

IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 08:51:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I would suspicion that the half moon key on the front of the drive shaft where it is connected to the bevel gear might be sheared off. Do the PTO and the Power Lift work? If they do, then that key is probably sheared off. Larry


Thank you

IP: 129.93.89.157 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 01:02:59 PM by Eric A. Shruck

I do not have a question but I want to say that this is a GREAT SITE, I have enjoyed reading your questions and answers. I am a Agricultural Engineering Student at the University of Nebraska Lincoln but orginally a dairy farmer from central wisconsin, where the the whole farm is run by white and Oliver. I pull an oliver 1650 gas tractor and love it again thanks Eric

Re(1): Thank you

IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 08:48:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Thank you for your compliments. We are glad you enjoy our website. Larry and Sandy


Oliver 77

IP: 172.150.155.59 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 11:43:20 AM by Rich

I have an old Oliver 77 that I have been trying to us to pull a New Holland 850 round baler it pulls it ok but I can only make 1 bale before it gets hot Is it that I don't have enough tractor or is it some thing else I have flushed to cooling system but that didn't help much help

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 08:46:55 PM by Larry Harsin

You need a bigger tractor. One that is at least a 60 horsepower. Larry


Oliver Drill

IP: 206.31.141.250 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 10:25:00 AM by David Gass

Looking for information on Oliver Grain Drills. Looking for information to match Serial Number with year and other info.

Re(1): Oliver Drill

IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 08:44:56 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net They also have records as to serial numbers etc. Larry


tractor split

IP: 63.26.248.218 Posted on July 11, 2002 at 09:12:25 PM by Noel

OK, I'm making progress. New clutch and pressure plate installed, however when I try to push the tractor halves back together it won't seem to go. I have a sneaking suspicion that the shaft is getting hung up possibly on the clutch disc splines. Any good way to get the halves back together? Thanks, Noel

Re(1): tractor split

IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on July 11, 2002 at 10:39:44 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to keep working at it. Bump the starter to turn the engine slightly and keep working and it will pull together. There are two sets of splines that have to fit together at the same time. Keep wiggling and working. Larry

Re(1): tractor split

IP: 12.89.129.30 Posted on July 12, 2002 at 01:00:00 PM by Mike B

Try to make the tranny case halves parallel and square to each other as much as possible. Also make sure that you first used a clutch alignment tool. It puts the clutch disk in perfect center (it is held in place by the pilot bearing) before you tighten up the pressure plate. Otherwise, it may never line up since you have two splined shafts as Larry says. The tool is less than $15 at any auto store. Don't under any circumstances force the two halves together by using the bolts to bring it home. If things are aligned, it should go together with a little bit of rocking. And keep those fingers and toes out of the way!


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