"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" July - August, 2000 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" July - August, 2000 Archives
Oliver 60 RC Wide Front End Posted by Dusty M. Erickson on August 30, 2000 at 11:12:39: IP Address:
208.198.102.129
Larry...I have been searching for nearly 6 months for a wide front end assembly for
an Oliver 60 Row Crop. No leads. Do you have any suggestions, help, etc. Dusty
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 30, 2000 at 12:29:34: IP Address: 209.163.7.40
In Reply to: Oliver 60 RC Wide Front End posted by Dusty M. Erickson on August
30, 2000 at 11:12:39:
Dusty, Call Don Chandler, P.O. Box 15,Lovell, ME 04051, 207-935-3339. Larry
Harsin
1755
Posted by Jerrold on August 29, 2000 at 12:49:36: IP Address: 12.21.154.197
I HAVE A 1755 WHEN I AM GOING DOWN THE ROAD IT WILL
VIBRATE WHEN IT GET ABOUT 1500 RPM IT WILL DO IT IN THE FEILD
IF YOU GET OVER 1500RPM COULD THIS BE THE OVER-UNDER
GIVING TROUBLE .
THANKS
Posted by larry wolfe on August 29, 2000 at 17:13:29: IP Address: 206.15.134.25
In Reply to: 1755 posted by Jerrold on August 29, 2000 at 12:49:36:
Do you have the vibration when the tractor is not moveing and the engine is speeded
up.
Posted by JERROLD on August 29, 2000 at 23:25:45: IP Address: 12.21.154.76
In Reply to: Re: 1755 posted by larry wolfe on August 29, 2000 at 17:13:29:
YES I HAVE THE VIBRATION WHEN THE TRACTOR IS NOT MOVEING
AND THE ENGINE IS SPEEDED UP
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 30, 2000 at 05:33:00: IP Address: 209.163.7.41
In Reply to: Re: 1755 posted by JERROLD on August 29, 2000 at 23:25:45:
Jerrold, Check the alignment between the hydraul and the transmission in the chain
coupling. If the hydraul is low, put a jack screw in the threaded hole in the frame, then
slide a plate underneath hydraul for jack screw to push against. Then adjust it so the
sprockets are more in line. Ususally it doesn't take very much. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on August 30, 2000 at 10:51:31: IP Address: 206.15.135.245
In Reply to: Re: 1755 posted by Larry Harsin on August 30, 2000 at 05:33:00:
While you are under there looking, take off the 2 bolts and the piece under and in frount
of the flywheel. See if the flywheel is loose or wobbles when turned.
1365 4wd oliver ( fiat )
Posted by chuck on August 28, 2000 at 19:39:51: IP Address: 208.27.26.226
I'm looking for a steering box for a 1365 4wd oliver ( and I think Fiat made this one
). Will anything else work. I'm not sure of the year 72 or 73.
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 28, 2000 at 20:36:05: IP Address: 209.163.7.23
In Reply to: 1365 4wd oliver ( fiat ) posted by chuck on August 28, 2000 at 19:39:51:
Chuck, I don't know of anything else that will work. Call Farmersville Equipment at
Ephrata PA
717-354-2150 They may be able to help you. Larry
Oliver 70 Question
Posted by Jim Warren on August 24, 2000 at 07:45:33: IP Address: 208.31.144.247
Larry,
I see as I am sitting on the
> oliver there is another PTO by my right foot on the RR
> of the moter.. It turns all the time but I can stop it
> with my hand. How do You engage this? I figured out
> the lever for the rear spline above the gear shift but
> it dont seem to do anything for this other PTO. I have
shifted and pulled everything I can think of.
This is a 1946 Wide front serial 25XXXX It has the original moter and the 6 speed
double H trans. The spline in the back does work and goes in and out with the lever
above the shifter.Any Ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim Warren in Olympia
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 27, 2000 at 19:45:57: IP Address: 209.163.7.17
In Reply to: Oliver 70 Question posted by Jim Warren on August 24, 2000 at
07:45:33:
Jim. That "PTO" by your right foot is the drive for the belt pulley. It is engaged by
the lever in front of the gear shift. If the pulley drive doesn't work when this lever is
engaged, there is a key sheared in front of the transmission. To replace this key, you
will have to remove the fuel tank then the steering unit. Sorry we didn't answer right
away, we just returned from the National Hart-Parr Oliver Collector's Show. Larry
565 oliver plow wheel bearing
Posted by dan godwin on August 24, 2000 at 06:24:00: IP Address: 208.130.184.2
I have a 4 16 565 oliver plow and the inside wheel bearing is completely gone
(nothing left with a number on it). Do you know the bearing number so I can
purchase one?
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 28, 2000 at 08:19:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.18
In Reply to: 565 oliver plow wheel bearing posted by dan godwin on August 24, 2000
at 06:24:00:
Dan, I don't have the numbers right at hand. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl.
800-320-6224. They will know immediately and probably have the part to send to you.
Larry
weight of 1655,1855,2255
Posted by Dave on August 19, 2000 at 20:21:29: IP Address: 216.127.195.203
Larry,
Could you tell me what the weights of a 1655,1855&2255 are with a standard wide
front end and without cabs. I am thinking about using one for a pulling tractor.
Thanks,
Dave
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 19, 2000 at 21:18:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.49
In Reply to: weight of 1655,1855,2255 posted by Dave on August 19, 2000 at
20:21:29:
Dave, The 1655 - Approx. 6000 lbs.
The 1855 - Approx. 8000 lbs.
The 2255 - Approx. 11,000 lbs.
This is with tricycle fronts on the 1655 and the 1855. The 2255 was built with the wide
front. This is my guess on these weights. It can vary a lot with equipment, tire sizes etc.
Larry
1755
Posted by David Blackford on August 19, 2000 at 10:03:30: IP Address:
207.177.90.10
MY father in law has a 1755 diesel that we tried to pull start the other day and when
you let the clutch out the transmission will turn but the engine won't. We tried to
jump start it and got the engine to turn a little so it's not seized up. Any suggestions
on what to look for would be greatley appreciated.
thanks in advance
David Blackford
Posted by larry wolfe on August 20, 2000 at 09:08:22: IP Address: 206.15.134.4
In Reply to: 1755 posted by David Blackford on August 19, 2000 at 10:03:30:
The hydro power won't lock up unless the engine is turning over some. Its safer to pull
forward with a battery good enough to turn the engine over. Start pulling ,let out the
clutch,crank the engine,while pulling.
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 19, 2000 at 11:08:10: IP Address: 209.163.7.40
In Reply to: 1755 posted by David Blackford on August 19, 2000 at 10:03:30:
David. How long has it been since this tractor ran the last time? Was there a problem
then? If the engine is not siezed and you think it should run, you can try pulling it
backwards. Put it in Reverse 2 and put the hydraul lever in the middle or high position
and see what happens. Let me know. Larry
grill for 1755
Posted by DeWayne on August 17, 2000 at 12:25:46: IP Address: 152.163.197.62
Larry, I have heard that there is a fiberglass radiator grill available for the Oliver
1755. Would you have any information on this? Thanks, DeWayne
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 17, 2000 at 12:57:16: IP Address: 209.163.7.21
In Reply to: grill for 1755 posted by DeWayne on August 17, 2000 at 12:25:46:
No, I havn't any information on this. Larry
1550 Gas
Posted by Julius on August 13, 2000 at 18:06:49: IP Address: 209.253.186.35
Can you help me with a few pages of the 1550 gas shop manual. All I need is the
diagrams for or an Idea of where the timing marks on the chain gears should line up.
I think Mine has jumped time, and I also need to know the correct Firing order. the
manual says it is:
1-5-3-6-2-4, however this crosses two or more cylinders. If you have the correct
order it sure will save me a lot of time. I am sorry I don't know the exact model year
of the tractor. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide.
julius
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 13, 2000 at 21:01:01: IP Address: 209.163.7.59
In Reply to: 1550 Gas posted by Julius on August 13, 2000 at 18:06:49:
Julius, The timing gears have a "c" marked on the cam shaft gear and the crank shaft gear. Those "c's"
should line up together. I can't figure how this has jumped time. If it has you have more troubles than you've
found so far. The timing arrangement for all the Olivers like the 88, 880,1550 and 1650 etc. are all the same.
That firing order is correct. Larry
1959 Oliver 550
Posted by Phil on August 13, 2000 at 07:08:51: IP Address: 152.163.206.207
I did a rehab on the steering,(manual) is there a certain procedure to follow when reinstalling the shaft
and ball nut placement? The steering wheel will rotate 3/4 turn before the wheels start to turn. Also the
shaft rides up about 1/4". Thanks Phil
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 13, 2000 at 20:13:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.59
In Reply to: 1959 Oliver 550 posted by Phil on August 13, 2000 at 07:08:51:
Phil, First you have to back the 2 sectors off, then get the bearings adjusted on the steering wheel shaft. Then adjust the first
sector to that and then the second sector to that. It has to be done in this order. Larry
oliver 60 muffler/stackpipe
Posted by randy on August 09, 2000 at 06:22:06: IP Address: 63.89.2.100
larry, i posted a question here a while back about the muffler on my 60. originally the muffler on the 60 was wedged down
in to the manifold at the factory. no bolts or mounting brackets or anything. my muffler/stack piece is now kind of loose
and will come out sometimes if i hit a bump. i also do not have a good exhaust seal around the muffler/manifold joint as a
result.
question for you...... there must be some way to rig up a muffler/stackpipe to my manifold that will give a tight, secure
seal. how could i do that?? could i take the manifold off, have a piece of pipe welded to it, and mount a muffler to it,
similar to a farmall??
what would you suggest, larry??
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 09, 2000 at 19:55:46: IP Address: 209.163.7.73
In Reply to: oliver 60 muffler/stackpipe posted by randy on August 09, 2000 at 06:22:06:
Randy, You might have to take piece of tubing that will fit onto the muffler and drive it down into the manifold. Then drive
the muffler down on it. If you start welding pipes into the manifold, you will ruin the spacing and run out of room under the
hood. Larry
1600 Oliver steering problem
Posted by Bill Fruit on August 06, 2000 at 18:32:29: IP Address: 172.146.153.243
I have two problems with my 1600. First, the steering will not release to tilt. Second, the steering will wander. That is to
say I can continue to slowly turn the steering wheel around without turning the wheels. It's not a problem unless I'm on the
road. Do you have any sugestions where I should look first.
Posted by larry wolfe on August 08, 2000 at 11:07:36: IP Address: 206.15.134.111
In Reply to: 1600 Oliver steering problem posted by Bill Fruit on August 06, 2000 at 18:32:29:
Removeing the hood and fuel tank will give access to all the parts. It can be expensive to replace the hydromotor and you can
end up with mismatched parts.Many parts are hard to come by. You can try to tighten the screw by the steering coloum. You
can try some tests to see if the cylinder is leaking,but niether helps most of the time. If its not too bad, drive it as long as you
can.
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 06, 2000 at 21:11:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.33
In Reply to: 1600 Oliver steering problem posted by Bill Fruit on August 06, 2000 at 18:32:29:
The problem in a 1600 that does that is usually in the hydro-motor on the bottom of the steering wheel. The usual fix is to
install a different hydro-motor. The inability to tilt the steering unit is with the mechanism on the bottom of the hydro-motor.
The hydro-motor will have to be removed to fix this mechanism. Larry
Blown head gasket
Posted by Fred Byers on August 03, 2000 at 12:45:57: IP Address: 12.13.226.16
Can anyone tell me the head bolt torque sequence and the torque
value for the head bolts for a 1966, model 1250, 4 cylinder, gas,
Oliver tractor?
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 03, 2000 at 19:48:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.30
In Reply to: Blown head gasket posted by Fred Byers on August 03, 2000 at 12:45:57:
Fred, You work from inside out. Start at the center bolt in the tappet chamber and work from the inside out adjusting at 30
foot pounds. From the center bolt go across diagonally to number 2 on the outside of the tappet chamber. Number 3 is the
one next to 2. 4 is back beside number 1. 5 is on the other side of number 1. 6 is diagonally across and next to number 2. 7 is
on the other side of number 3. 8 is on the end between 7 & 4 and 9 is at the other end. Looking down from the top it is in a
clockwise order working from inside out. After all are at 30 ftlbs. begin adjusting at 10 ftlbs. each until they are 65 ftlbs. each.
After they are all torqued, I would run the engine and warm it up, then let it cool back down and retorque them. Larry
1800 which engine
Posted by Don Gustafson on August 02, 2000 at 15:28:09: IP Address: 204.60.224.34
Hi Larry, Perhaps you can help me identify which diesel engine I have. I bought an Waukesha diesel engine to fit an oliver
1800. When I picked it up it was a orange color but under this paint it was Oliver green. How do I tell if I have a VRD 283
or a VRD 310?
I'm sure it came out of a Cocksutt. The junk yard claimed it was a 310 but I would like to know for sure. I need to replace
the head gasket, valve cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Thanks Don
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 02, 2000 at 17:09:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.23
In Reply to: 1800 which engine posted by Don Gustafson on August 02, 2000 at 15:28:09:
Don, When you change the head gasket, you can measure the engine stroke. If you have a 283 it has a 4 inch stroke. If you
have a 310 it will be larger than that - 4 3/8ths I think. Larry
OLIVER 77
Posted by ALFRED on August 01, 2000 at 20:10:48: IP Address: 207.205.219.36
DOES ANYONE HAVE A DIAGRAM ON THE FUEL INJECTOR PUMP ON A OLIVER 77D
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 02, 2000 at 04:36:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.66
In Reply to: OLIVER 77 posted by ALFRED on August 01, 2000 at 20:10:48:
Alfred, I might have one I'll look. What is the problem with your injection pump? Larry
1650 oliver tractor
Posted by John Adams on August 01, 2000 at 18:11:44: IP Address: 63.14.142.181
Larry,
I know very little about tractors and even less about the
Oliver tractor.
I found what seems to be a sound 1650 Oliver Tractor and the
person selling
it is asking $6500.
I do not know if this is a good price or not. The tractor seems
to shift
in and out of gear OK.
There is not much play in shifting, everything seems tight.
Engine starts easily, no smoking,
no knocks,engine seems strong. Hydraulics work, it has a few
leaks, nothing major, all gauges
seem to work, appr.7000 hrs showing, not that this represents
a true picture of the hours however. Is $6500 a fair price and
what should I look for with this particular model. Can I put a loader
on this model
and expect to move a lot of dirt or rocks. I live in the
hill country in central Texas, lots of rock. We will be clearing appr.15 acres,
dirt,rock, and cedars. Will the Oliver 1650 handle this type of work or will I be pushing
the tractor beyond what it was entened to do?
Posted by Larry Harsin on August 02, 2000 at 04:41:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.66
In Reply to: 1650 oliver tractor posted by John Adams on August 01, 2000 at 18:11:44:
John, We have spoken on the phone but in answer to your questions. See if you can find out some recent history on this
tractor, maybe from a previous owner. Yes, a 1650 is adequate for the job you have discribed. Larry
Posted by Skinner on August 02, 2000 at 04:30:15: IP Address: 63.166.22.88
In Reply to: 1650 oliver tractor posted by John Adams on August 01, 2000 at 18:11:44:
Yes, a loader will work fine on this tractor. KD offers a loader, and bolt up brackets for the 1650 for about $3500.00 New.
She has about 68 hp. As far as the price, that's about what the going rate is around here Goliad, TX. I gave 2500 for mine
then spent about another 2500 on tires and an overhaul, but I know exactly whats in her. I think mine had 8600 hours on it
when I overhauled it. She still ran good but someone kept spraying ether in her instead of fixing the original problem so it
had some busted rings.
Oliver seat
Posted by Chad Fannin on July 23, 2000 at 13:13:23: IP Address: 206.230.103.96
Larry,
What color is the Monroe E-Z ride seat supposed to be for my Oliver 70. While cleaning it it looks like it has a coat of
green, then red, then primer. What would it have originally been?
Thanks,
Chad
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 23, 2000 at 19:40:20: IP Address: 209.163.7.7
In Reply to: Oliver seat posted by Chad Fannin on July 23, 2000 at 13:13:23:
Hi Chad, I think originally it was probably red to match the wheels. You can paint it either color you would like it to be and it
will be fine. Larry
Time to paint, the 770
Posted by Greg on July 18, 2000 at 17:30:06: IP Address: 209.153.14.14
I do not know if you have done a lot of paintin', Larry, so if you haven't, maybe someone else here has. I can get some
paint at the AGCO shop. My question is,what is the best thing to thin the paint with: reducer, Naptha, or just plain old
paint thinner ? And is there a rule of thumb for thinning enamel, 50/50 mix 60/40, etc,,,etc,,. I have a friend who does a lot
of auto painting, he said he would give me a hand, but he uses auto acrylic paints, he does not know much about the old
fashioned "tractor paint" I ordered a top feed sprayer this spring from Harbour Frieght.
thanks once again,,
Posted by Chad on July 23, 2000 at 20:29:28: IP Address: 206.229.46.12
In Reply to: Time to paint, the 770 posted by Greg on July 18, 2000 at 17:30:06:
Greg,
I have been painting my Oliver 70 with enamel and been having really good luck. To thin it I have been using 100% mineral
spirits. The mix, I don't have an exact ratio, but I like it kind of thick. Maybe 2 parts paint, 1 part thinner. You just have to
play with it until you get what you want. I also use a catalist hardener for enamel paint. It claims to reduce the drying time,
increase hardness and make it up to 10% shinier. You really can tell a difference in the shine. I get the hardener at Farm and
Fleet.
Hope this helps,
Chad
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 21:45:46: IP Address: 209.163.7.71
In Reply to: Time to paint, the 770 posted by Greg on July 18, 2000 at 17:30:06:
Greg, I am not a painter! When I get them restored, I have someone else do the painting. I would probably follow the
directions on the can. Good Luck. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on July 19, 2000 at 06:43:26: IP Address: 207.226.216.110
In Reply to: Re: Time to paint, the 770 posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 21:45:46:
For spraying enamals I like xylol(spelling wrong). IT disolves quik and stays mixed and dries quik. Dont buy the new
replacement for turpentine its the oppisite of above.
Posted by greg on July 19, 2000 at 11:38:19: IP Address: 209.153.14.31
In Reply to: Re: Time to paint, the 770 posted by larry wolfe on July 19, 2000 at 06:43:26:
Hey thanks,,, I will look for something that is almost spelled like that. What is your preffered mix ratio ?
I used some Farm & Fleet paint on my Super 88,and had some runs on the fenders,,, did not know if it was a bad mix,,,, or a
"BAD" painter. I bought a new top feed squirter, to paint the 770.
Posted by larry wolfe on July 19, 2000 at 20:21:30: IP Address: 207.226.216.165
In Reply to: Re: Time to paint, the 770 posted by greg on July 19, 2000 at 11:38:19:
The name of the bad paint thinner is t.r.p.s its billed as a new replacement for turpentine. Sometimes it was evan cheaper. But
it was offull to use hard to mix and caused runs. The paint seemed oilyer not thinner. Dryed very slow.
1650 Parts
Posted by Skinner on July 17, 2000 at 19:48:15: IP Address: 63.166.22.17
Hello Larry,
I'm looking for a couple of odd parts for my 1964 1650-D.
Right hand Lift arm has a adjustable link, I'm looking for the thin sheet metal bottom cover to that little gear box.
Also, there is a knob in the center of the steering wheel to allow the telescopic steering column to extend, I'm looking for
that knob
and possily the center shaft.
Next, several people told me AGCO made a top link adapter that replaces the bail (with built in top link). I went to AGCO
and they had no idea what I was talking about. It converts the 1650 to a normal style top link so one could use a post hole
auger. Any clues?
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 05:11:19: IP Address: 209.163.7.28
In Reply to: 1650 Parts posted by Skinner on July 17, 2000 at 19:48:15:
Richard, I have the knob and the shaft for the steering column but I don't have the other stuff. I don't know about the top
link adapter that replaces the bail either. Larry
More on self shifting hydro power
Posted by larry wolfe on July 16, 2000 at 18:38:05: IP Address: 207.226.217.49
I finally got time to drill out the stuck plug and disasemble control valve. Forgot to add this is the hydro power refered to
in may 16 post(in archives) I still cannot find any visible problem. Valve is perfect,no pluged holes,no scraches,springs
test ok,relief holds,presure regulator installed corect. I have been testing with air and it seems that nearly all air is dumped
into the filter regardles of valve position. The filter then puts the oil(air) into the lubrication tube. Aparently all that oil won't
go there and I end up with enough presure to engage the clutch. How do I fix this? My only thought is the presure
lowering spring used on the 3 speeds,But this unit shifted on it's own with NO spring!
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 17, 2000 at 05:31:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.45
In Reply to: More on self shifting hydro power posted by larry wolfe on July 16, 2000 at 18:38:05:
Larry, I'd be inclined to replace the whole side cover assembly on that unit and see if that makes any difference. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on July 17, 2000 at 17:06:08: IP Address: 207.226.216.131
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by Larry Harsin on July 17, 2000 at 05:31:31:
Today I worked on getting my other spare hydro-power apart. I found it had more water than oil inside. It was stored inside
but must have gotten water before i got it. The valves don't look useable. The clutch was above the water. I did more testing
on the first unit. with valve in low I can get some air out the clutch preasure hose,if I block return hole I get lots of presure at
clutch hole.
Posted by larry@yahoo.com on July 18, 2000 at 16:04:33: IP Address: 207.226.217.134
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by larry wolfe on July 17, 2000 at 17:06:08:
Did more testing today. I found it only takes 10lbs preasure to activate the clutch. So when I had 40 psi lube presure its no
wonder it would shift to high. I have nearly 1/8 freeplay with no preasure and it turns free in low. Yet 10 psi it shifts to high,I
have already replaced the return spring. With everything instaled correctly and shift lever in low, adding preasure to pump
hole I get some air flow at shift preasure hose. The only way to make it work is to add a shutoff valve in the hose. Do
working units do this?
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 21:50:22: IP Address: 209.163.7.71
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by larry@yahoo.com on July 18, 2000 at 16:04:33:
Larry, I don't think so. In the Oliver Shop Manual there are diagrams of the oil flows in the high and low ranges. Check these
out. Larry
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 21:55:06: IP Address: 209.163.7.71
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 21:50:22:
Larry, Check that spring and plunger for your lube circuit. On some of those units the plunger pounded through the seat and
then the unit would over heat. I don't know if this has anything to do with your problem but there is a repair package to repair
the seat in the housing if that plunger has worn it out. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on July 19, 2000 at 06:35:03: IP Address: 207.226.216.110
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by Larry Harsin on July 18, 2000 at 21:55:06:
The plunger,spring and seat appear perfect. I changed the spring twice and instaled a smaller one. It worked better with small
spring and evan better with no spring. The lube presure would drop to near 0 if you idled engine then it would stay in low. If
engine speed increased it shifted to high. With correct spring it would stay in high. I have three IT. manuels plus some stuff
from oliver,I have studied them all. None show a hydrolic diagram. The biggest problem with tractor was you could not shift
main transmission when unit was stuck in high and on a hill.One day i shut off engine and could not restart because
transmission was stuck. With no lube spring preasure would drop and you could shift.
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 19, 2000 at 18:03:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.10
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by larry wolfe on July 19, 2000 at 06:35:03:
Larry, I never had a situation like this and I don't know except that I would put a different side cover on it and see if that
makes a difference. Larry
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 19, 2000 at 18:03:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.10
In Reply to: Re: More on self shifting hydro power posted by larry wolfe on July 19, 2000 at 06:35:03:
Larry, I never had a situation like this and I don't know except that I would put a different side cover on it and see if that
makes a difference. Larry
Serial Number
Posted by Clayton on July 16, 2000 at 14:35:24: IP Address: 204.30.230.134
i Have an Oliver 60 Rowcrop and i believe that the Serial Number is 609541 but everything i have found doesn't have that
number if you could please help
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 16, 2000 at 18:24:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.22
In Reply to: Serial Number posted by Clayton on July 16, 2000 at 14:35:24:
Clayton, You have a 1944 6O Row Crop. Larry
Filter Sizes
Posted by Skinner on July 15, 2000 at 08:07:30: IP Address: 63.166.22.67
I'm looking for a few more Filter numbers that I can pickup locally, like NAPA.
1965 Oliver 1650-D
Engine Oil Filter - Sock type
Primary Fuel Filter - Sock Type
Secondary Fuel Filter - Cartridge Type, Looks like a spin on but has a screw down top cover.
Thanks for the assistance.
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 15, 2000 at 19:59:30: IP Address: 209.163.7.55
In Reply to: Filter Sizes posted by Skinner on July 15, 2000 at 08:07:30:
Richard, I don't have the NAPA numbers for those filters. I use AGCO's filters. If you call NAPA they'll know the
numbers. Larry
77 Oliver Engine Numbers
Posted by Dick on July 13, 2000 at 20:21:09: IP Address: 205.188.197.24
I have an Oliver engine with casting numbers 189220 M100. I have been told that the first number was a Waukeshau
number. The second was for a 77 series tractor.I don't have the rest of the tractor. It is a six cyl. I would like to know what
year, model,bore, and any other information I can use to buy parts to rebuild it.
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 14, 2000 at 05:01:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.41
In Reply to: 77 Oliver Engine Numbers posted by Dick on July 13, 2000 at 20:21:09:
Hi Dick, What you have is a Fleetline 77 block. That particular engine was used in the early 50's in the Fleetline series. Larry
oliver 70
Posted by Chad on July 12, 2000 at 20:23:30: IP Address: 208.29.73.9
Hope you don't mind but I have another question to ask. I just found your sight and it's great because I always have
questions about my Oliver 70. Is it supposed to have a muffler? Right now all it has is welded schedule 40 pipe for an
exhaust. If it is supposed to, where would I get one?
Thanks,
Chad
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 13, 2000 at 06:22:11: IP Address: 209.163.7.21
In Reply to: oliver 70 posted by Chad on July 12, 2000 at 20:23:30:
Chad. It is supposed to have a muffler. I think you can get a muffler from your AGCO dealer or a Stanley muffler from your
fleet store. If you can't find one, let me know and we'll get one and send it to you. Larry
what year 70?
Posted by Chad on July 11, 2000 at 19:41:11: IP Address: 206.230.103.180
Larry,
I have an Oliver Rowcrop 70 and am wanting to know your opinion to what year it is. The serial # is 249566. I have found
that it is a 1944 but the tractor has an alluminum hood (side skirts gone) and the throttle is mounted on the stearing
column. These are 47 or 48 features. What is your opinion?
Thanks,
Chad
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 12, 2000 at 06:16:42: IP Address: 216.248.92.40
In Reply to: what year 70? posted by Chad on July 11, 2000 at 19:41:11:
It's a 1944.
That throttle business is an after market option that Oliver produced to upgrade the older tractors. It was probably put on in the
late 40's or later.
The tractor may have come original with the aluminum hood. Because of the scarcity of sheet metal near the end of the war
they used whatever they could get. There were actually tractors built from the parts bins because that was the only way to get a
tractor during those years.
It's more likely that hood was replaced at some point. 1947 and 48 were the years where aluminum was really used a lot.
Larry
Posted by Chad on July 12, 2000 at 20:06:07: IP Address: 208.29.73.9
In Reply to: Re: what year 70? posted by Larry Harsin on July 12, 2000 at 06:16:42:
Thanks Larry.
I have thought since I got it that it was a later model than a '44. But now I know the right year.
Thanks again.
8 hole hub 770 industrial
Posted by chief613 on July 10, 2000 at 17:38:50: IP Address: 209.222.74.181
Larry,
Heres the problem, when i first got the tractor i sheared the key, moving sand. Wasnt really workin it hard, so i assumed
that who ever had it before did, and this was the staw that broke the camels back. So i replaced the key, but found that the
keyway was worn, worse in the hub itself, slightly on the spindle. After replacing the hub was real sloppy(probably just
hadnt noticed before) After lookin closer i see that the other side had about a 1/4" spacer/washer, besides the fold over lock
washer. I can slide the hub up tight to the spindle housin and cant seem to get it tight to stay. My thought that either or both
the tappered hub and or spindle is worn. Im scarred of what the price would be to replace one or both, got any suggestion,
or prices:-(
thanks for any help
steve
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 12, 2000 at 06:07:57: IP Address: 216.248.92.40
In Reply to: 8 hole hub 770 industrial posted by chief613 on July 10, 2000 at 17:38:50:
Sounds like it's probably run loose long enough that the hubs are worn. Get the part number off that hub and contact your
AGCO dealer for availability. If you can get a new hub, that will probably do it even though the keyway in the axle is
worn. If it doesn't you'll have to replace the axle as well. I can try to help you locate one of those if you want, but those are
hard to find. You just don't find 770 industrials laying around for parts very often.
If you can't get a new hub, you might be able to take it to a good machine shop and get that hub rebuilt. But that will cost a
ton of money and you'd just as well pay for a new hub if you can get one.
Posted by chief613 on July 12, 2000 at 18:31:55: IP Address: 209.222.74.181
In Reply to: Re: 8 hole hub 770 industrial posted by Larry Harsin on July 12, 2000 at 06:07:57:
The only place i checked so far was Maibach Tractor, and they sent me right to used parts. I dont know if that means u cant
find a new one or what. Anyways they couldnt find a used one. They suggested shimming the axle with thin sheet metal
,about the thickness of a soda can. Gonna check around a bit more. If i cant find one, then maybe have the keyway milled
larger in the hub (have a stepped key) and shim, does that sound like an exceptable route? Thanks for ur help, its been great!
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 13, 2000 at 06:16:21: IP Address: 209.163.7.21
In Reply to: Re: 8 hole hub 770 industrial posted by chief613 on July 12, 2000 at 18:31:55:
Hi Chief, I don't think putting a shim in will hold. If you send me the number off the casting on the hub, I'll try to locate a hub
for you. Larry
Oliver 1800
Posted by Ryan on July 07, 2000 at 21:32:19: IP Address: 137.118.30.24
I just bought my first Oliver, I love it. It is an 1800 (A series).
I understand that some of the A series engines are hard to find parts for. How can I tell
if I am going to have a promblem? I would greatly appreciate any and all information you may
provide on this wounderful peice of history!!
Thanks,
Ryan
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 07, 2000 at 23:35:01: IP Address: 209.163.7.35
In Reply to: Oliver 1800 posted by Ryan on July 07, 2000 at 21:32:19:
Hi Ryan, Do you have an Operator's Manual for your 1800A? You can get one from HPOCA Headquarters in Charles City
IA. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net How does your 1800A act? Does it leak or use oil? Is it a gas or a
diesel? Is the engine noisy? If you are going to use the tractor and think it needs something, start by checking the bearings on
the lower end of the engine. (Do an underhaul) Let me know what you find out. Some parts are hard to find but I can
probably find what you need. Larry
770 front spindle
Posted by Greg on July 07, 2000 at 15:33:14: IP Address: 209.153.14.33
Rats,,, after I removed the power steering unit from my 770, I discovered that the top bearing on the main spindle or shaft
or, whatever it is called;, was,,, well junk ! I got the retaining nut off, and after jacking up the tractor, I was thinking the
shaft would just drop down, it does not seem to want to do that, I know there is another bearing at the bottom of the front
housing. So,,,, this is where I am bogged down at. Do I need to unbolt the front housing, to remove the front shaft, to get
this old bearing out ? I am sitting here now with a cool beverage trying to figure it out,,,
I have the power steering unit on a bench next to the 770 still hooked up to the pump, it may just be the top seal, but I will
play with that a little more. I am going to rig up a cooling system with the garden hose, I guess somehow hose up the
garden hose to the top radiator connection on the head, and just put a drain hose on the bottom with some kind of
restriction on it so I can run the engine and see if I can eyeball which one of the power steering seals leaks.
Thanks again in advance for all your help,,,
greg
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 07, 2000 at 23:16:16: IP Address: 209.163.7.35
In Reply to: 770 front spindle posted by Greg on July 07, 2000 at 15:33:14:
Hi Greg, Go ahead and unbolt the front housing and drop it down out of there. Take the front housing off the post and take
your bearings and races out. The new bearings I received last time were Timkens to replace the Hyatt bearings. I think I
may have the parts you need on hand. Let me know if you want them. Larry
Posted by Greg on July 07, 2000 at 22:23:25: IP Address: 209.153.14.32
In Reply to: 770 front spindle posted by Greg on July 07, 2000 at 15:33:14:
OK,,, using a big brass punch, and a bigger hammer, I got the spindle shaft removed, Man is it ever "gunky" inside that
housing. The top bearing was completely gone, and it looks like there is suppose to a seal on top of, and just underneath
the top bearing. Now on the bottom, there was one "shim" that came out with the spindle. I am wondering how many
shims are suppose to be there, or if this "one" is just worn thin. The hubs were rubbing on the spindle housing a little. I do
not see any way to grease or lubricate this front end after it is re-assembled, but that just must be the way it is,,,
p.s.
that retaining nut on the top of the spindle had a "tab" on it in a notch in the spindle, I just used a small chisel and nipped
the tab off, did I screw up, and now do I need a new nut ?
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 07, 2000 at 23:26:04: IP Address: 209.163.7.35
In Reply to: Re: 770 front spindle posted by Greg on July 07, 2000 at 22:23:25:
Hi Greg, That thing you are calling a shim is a washer retainer for that felt. You can hammer it out and reuse it. This is on
the bottom. On the top bearing, below the race in the housing, there's a washer that acts as a retainer to hold grease up in
the top bearing. This whole business is fed grease up in the top bearing. There's a grease zerk on the back side of the
bearing. The grease works out of the top bearing and on down the post to the bottom bearing. I have the bearings and seal
for the top if you need them. You adjust the bearings with the big top nut. It doesn't hurt if the flanges are broken off.
Don't replace it unless you have to, it is very expensive. When you are assembling it, pack those roller bearing with grease
as you go. Larry
Hydrapower drive
Posted by Richard Skinner on July 06, 2000 at 05:03:18: IP Address: 63.166.22.102
Larry,
How much slack should there be in the countershaft output gear? The shaft running through the center looks good with no
wear and the countershaft itself fits good without excess slack, the front countershaft gear and sprag (one way clutch)
seems fine, but there is a little axial play on the rear countershaft gear. With the entire Hydrapower assembled, I can rotate
the input shaft clockwise and then go counter clockwise and I can see a slight (maybe a 1/16") axial movement in the
above mentioned gear. (next to the oil pump drive gear). Is this gear splined to the shaft? How tight is she suppose to be?
I used the new spanner nut on the main output shaft and tightened it up, of course this kit came with everything one could
imagine except shims, so I re-assembled with the old shims, I have "Zero end-play" on the output shaft but she rotates
freely without binding. To me the preload feels fine. How important is the .001"
end play that she is calling for?
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 06, 2000 at 21:14:12: IP Address: 209.163.7.48
In Reply to: Hydrapower drive posted by Richard Skinner on July 06, 2000 at 05:03:18:
Hi Richard,
It sounds like you have it just right! I wouldn't worry about that little bit of slack in the spline. I've been wondering how you
were doing. Larry
880 Brakes
Posted by HD on July 04, 2000 at 18:12:24: IP Address: 209.153.9.83
Put new disks in our 880. Right brake seems to work fine. Left side grabs and locks when energised. Sometimes locks so
tight that tractor must be put in reverse to unlock. This side also squikes. Sometimes I back up with brake energised for a
short distance and then it may act more normal for awhile. Help! Don't know what to do.
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 05, 2000 at 20:15:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.61
In Reply to: 880 Brakes posted by HD on July 04, 2000 at 18:12:24:
HD. There are 3 springs on the energising assembly. These should be replaced. Before you reinstall the new springs, take the
energising assembly apart and clean the balls and ramps and then put a light coat of new grease on them. Also make sure
there is no binding on the linkages to the cast energising discs. Larry
770 Power Steering
Posted by Greg on July 03, 2000 at 17:29:43: IP Address: 209.153.14.32
Hey, Thanks Larry for all your help with the hydr. pump. I got it back in, it seems to work ok, and has not leaked any fluid
yet. So,, now I am maybe going to look at the power steering unit under the radiator, it works ok, but "puddles" fluid on
the floor overnight. What am I looking at for a "ballpark" repair cost ?
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 03, 2000 at 21:45:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.61
In Reply to: 770 Power Steering posted by Greg on July 03, 2000 at 17:29:43:
Hi Greg. If the thing leaks, I am guessing that you will need to replace the top and bottom seals on the sector in the center of
the unit. The top seal, you'll have to remove the snap ring then start the tractor and let the pressure blow the seal out. If you are
sure that's the only one leaking, you have an easy fix. If you determine that you have to replace the bottom seal, the unit will
have to be taken out of the tractor. I would leave the Power steering hoses attached at this time. Simply lay the unit on a stand
or table along side the tractor. Now remove the nut that screws into the bottom of the unit. It's kind of a spanner nut that has
lots of holes in it. Put punches in the holes and use a bar to unscrew that nut out of there. After you get the nut out, start the
tractor and let it idle at 1000 rpm. Put a vice grip on the input shaft of the steering unit and go from extreme right to extreme
left until that seal pops out of that unit. Use caution around the engine fan while doing this. I wouldn't monkey with the ends
of the unit unless I knew they were actually leaking. Larry
Posted by Greg on July 04, 2000 at 14:25:38: IP Address: 209.153.14.24
In Reply to: Re: 770 Power Steering posted by Larry Harsin on July 03, 2000 at 21:45:56:
ok,,,I will print out your note and maybe tear into that next. It does not sound to expensive if it is just a couple seals. After
that, I may paint it and then later try to convince my wife I need the two gauges, they are about 300$ for the pair from AGCO.
And the power boost, well I have a six speed, just like the Super 88, so I am used to that. When I pull the lever to the "low"
side, it does work for a few feet, then just sorta' coasts to a stop. Maybe next summer I will repair that.
Did you tell me once you may know who would have the PTO shield for a 770 ?
Thanks again,,
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 05, 2000 at 20:10:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.61
In Reply to: Re: 770 Power Steering posted by Greg on July 04, 2000 at 14:25:38:
Hi Greg, You can get a new 770 PTO shield from Doug Johnson 319-347-6332. Larry
PTO Smoking
Posted by Frank Root on July 03, 2000 at 11:53:05: IP Address: 209.37.179.3
I have an Oliver 55 (gas) and while cutting high gras this weekend the PTO stopped & was smoking. After cooling off,
the PTO is stuck engaged. Is the clutch smoked? can I adjust the PTO open, unstick it, then readjust it to working again or
must I replace the plates? (I am not a machanic, but I do have a service manual. Is this a difficult task for an amatuer?)
Posted by Larry Harsin on July 03, 2000 at 21:32:53: IP Address: 209.163.7.61
In Reply to: PTO Smoking posted by Frank Root on July 03, 2000 at 11:53:05:
Hi Frank, You are right! You smoked your clutch. You'll need all new plates.You can do this job with a shop manual and
a few regular tools. You'll need an overhead hoist and a floor jack to roll the back end away from the front, or the hoist to
roll the front end away form the back. Larry
Posted by Frank Root on July 05, 2000 at 06:25:11: IP Address: 209.37.179.3
In Reply to: Re: PTO Smoking posted by Larry Harsin on July 03, 2000 at 21:32:53:
Thanks Larry. I got into the access panel over the 4th, and you're right. There's no disguising the smell of clutch plates gone
bad. I'm gonna tackle this myself partly for the knowledge partly for the cost. Either way, I'll come out ahead.
Thanks
Frank Root