June, 2000 "Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Archive

"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" June, 2000 Archives

'77 Engine Removal

Posted by Tom from Alberta on June 29, 2000 at 23:04:03: IP Address: 207.34.71.76

Larry: To remove the engine from my '77, the I&T Manual says to mount a lifting eye on the engine. I am assuming this screws on to the "special stud" about 2/3 of the way back from the front of the engine (manifold side). Is this the only lift point on the engine? Also, is there anything special about the lifting eye, or is this something I can pick up at the local hardware store? Thanks, Tom

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 30, 2000 at 06:34:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.11

In Reply to: '77 Engine Removal posted by Tom from Alberta on June 29, 2000 at 23:04:03:

Hi Tom, Yes, that's the only lift point on the engine. The lifting eye is a special tool that screws on that "stud" you are talking about. You can also take a short piece of chain that fits over that stud, put both ends of the chain over the stud, then put a washer and nut on the stud to hold the chain on, then hook your chain hoist on to the loop in the chain. You can make an eye. Go to your hardware store and see if they have an item that is like a well rod coupling. It will be about 2 inches long, half inch course thread, then you can take an eye and weld onto that piece to make yourself a lifting eye. Of course, you need to be a better welder than I am so the engine doesn't fall off of it. :-) Good Luck! Larry

Posted by chief613 on July 02, 2000 at 19:43:32: IP Address: 209.222.74.115

In Reply to: Re: '77 Engine Removal posted by Larry Harsin on June 30, 2000 at 06:34:37:

Larry I pulled my engine recntly, there was a stud, but it wasnt where the manual indicated. I pulled the bolt that the manual showed as the lifting spot and used a 8" wellded eye and a spacer to snug it up. would some one have moved it for some reason. It was moved toward the front, so it wouldnt have been moved to balance the weight.

Posted by Larry Harsin on July 03, 2000 at 05:18:32: IP Address: 209.163.7.21

In Reply to: Re: '77 Engine Removal posted by chief613 on July 02, 2000 at 19:43:32:

Hi Chief, When the engine was built, it was just back of center. It sounds like someone just didn't reinstall the bolt correctly when they had the engine apart. Larry

880 DEISEL

Posted by ED on June 29, 2000 at 16:12:55: IP Address: 63.20.63.16

HI LARRY, JUST BOUGHT A 880 DEISEL IN NEED OF A CLUTCH AND BRAKES IS THIS A BIG JOB DO YOU RECOMEND ANY SIMPLE STEPS TO TAKE. AND WERE WOULD BE THE BEST PLACE TO LOCATE PARTS. LARRY WOULD YOU HAVE ANY IDEA OF THE OVERALL COST TO DO THIS JOB IF I WAS TO HAVE A DEALER DO IT. EVERY THING ELSE IS IN GREAT WORKING COND. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE ED.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 29, 2000 at 21:54:44: IP Address: 209.163.7.50

In Reply to: 880 DEISEL posted by ED on June 29, 2000 at 16:12:55:

Hi Ed, Does your 880 have a power booster in it? If it does you will have to remove the engine to service the clutch. If your tractor is not equipped with power booster, it will save about 4 hrs. time. Without the power booster you should be able to take care of the brakes and the clutch in about 8 hrs. While you are working on this clutch, I would reccommend you make sure the rear main seal is ok. It takes a little more time but this can cause the clutch to slip. To replace the rear main seal and install new clutch linings only, parts shouldn't cost more than $200. You might get lucky and just clean up the brakes. Otherwise you may need new seals and friction discs which could cost about $100. To clean up the brakes shouldn't require more than an hour and a half. To replace seals add another hour. I have clutch parts. I could also obtain brake parts if you let me know what you need. Larry

Fuel tank rust

Posted by MS in Kansas on June 29, 2000 at 08:41:07: IP Address: 209.242.75.140

Am trying to revive a neglected 1800 (gas) and am fighting recurring rust and scale in fuel tank. Any opinion? The local tractor mech. said DO NOT use any of these commercial liquid tank coatings because they'll peel off and then you're stuck cutting off the top of the tank. (I have no experience with them so am trusting his advice.) He said just keep the tank topped off at all times to prevent rust, but I haven't had much luck with that approach (Yes, after cleaning out the tank.) Any help is appreciated.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 29, 2000 at 11:34:28: IP Address: 209.163.7.24

In Reply to: Fuel tank rust posted by MS in Kansas on June 29, 2000 at 08:41:07:

There are different things you can do. One, you can use a power washer. Take the fuel strainer out of the tank and use a power washer preferably with hot water to blast it out. Secondly, I have taken fuel tanks and put pea rock in them and shook them around to knock that stuff out of them when they were real scaly and bad. I'd go with the power washer first. You don't have to remove the tank from the tractor to do this. Before you reinstall the fuel strainer cut a little piece of pipe about 1 and a quarter inches long and fit it in the neck of the fuel strainer, then reinstall it. This will keep the crud from the bottom of the tank from getting in there. Larry

Posted by MS in Kansas on June 30, 2000 at 07:36:22: IP Address: 209.242.85.119

In Reply to: Re: Fuel tank rust posted by Larry Harsin on June 29, 2000 at 11:34:28:

Thanks Larry and Greg. The problem is I've been there already. Actually it already had about a 3/4-inch nipple on the fuel strainer. I also did the rocks and diesel fuel cleanout--unlike Greg's good idea about rigging up a washing machine, I hung it from the clothesline post and got the kids to swing it around for a while (well, not really...they got bored with Dad's game pretty quick.) Anyhow, the problem is the rust seemed to come back quicker than it should have. That's why I was wondering if putting any kind of sealant inside might be worthwhile. You think maybe I just didn't get it cleaned out completely? (used 3/4-inch gravel instead of pea gravel.) Appreciate all your help.

Posted by Dean on June 30, 2000 at 10:05:57: IP Address: 208.155.28.202

In Reply to: Re: Fuel tank rust posted by MS in Kansas on June 30, 2000 at 07:36:22:

Your local radiator shop might be able to help you. Some of them will clean the gas tank, then swoosh around a sealer that covers the inside of the tank and seals up any leaks as well as prevent any future rust. Not cheap, but it's considered a permanent repair.

Good luck!

Posted by Greg on June 30, 2000 at 08:45:40: IP Address: 209.153.14.30 In Reply to: Re: Fuel tank rust posted by MS in Kansas on June 30, 2000 at 07:36:22:

When you said a 3/4" nipple on the strainer, does it look like that nipple will thread into the tank fitting, and "stick up" 3/4 in. above the bottom of the tank ? or is the nipple on the strainer 3/4 inches long,,,,period. I made a little longer nipple out of a brass air hose barb connector splice, "pressed" it into the strainer/shutoff/sediment bowl opening. I drilled some small holes in the the nipple to act like a poor mans filter, and squeezed the end of the nipple almost closed. It probably sticks up about 1 inch above the tank bottom.

Other than trying to clean it again, I don't know what else you can do. I cleaned mine once, then it looked ok, but I have not looked in it to see if any rust re-developed above the fuel line. Maybe I don't want to look.

Posted by Greg R. on June 29, 2000 at 14:21:04: IP Address: 209.153.14.34

In Reply to: Re: Fuel tank rust posted by Larry Harsin on June 29, 2000 at 11:34:28:

You can also use a piece of small chain to shake and rattle around in the tank. If a guy had an old washing machine, maybe he could make a bracket for the top of the agitator, and strap the tank it and just let it "scrubb" the inside of the tank for an hour or so. Maybe start a tank reconditioning business. Ok,, I guess that is a little far out.

I did this with my 770 tank. It had a real heavy rust crust or layer on the top half. I emptied and removed the tank and got one of those big bottles of "Iron Out" powder, and dumped the entire bottle in, then filled the tank brimm full with water and let it set for a couple days. it seemed to get most if not all of the rough or crusty stuff off. Like Larry mentions, I then made a little "nipple" that I pressed into the tank fitting of the sediment bowl, so it would not draw from the bottom of the tank. I had to make one of those tank nipples for our Coon Creek Jaycees Farmall "H" also, it had some "crap" in the tank that kept pluuging up the sediment bowl fitting. We have a Woods belly mower on the "H" to mow our clubhouse area. Good Luck,

770 hydraulic pump

Posted by Greg on June 26, 2000 at 19:56:44: IP Address: 209.153.14.24

While I was waiting for your parts to arrive, I pushed out the "larger" bearing and seal, actually there were "2" seals back-to-back in the housing with the rubber "lips" facing out, or away from each other, in other words, one seal had the lips, facing towards the pump gear, and the other seal facing the outside of the pump assembly. I also measured how far the brg. was set into the housing, 3/32". Also, I noticed the drive gear, or the hollow one with the splines inside it, can only go "one" way, The splines are flush with the one end [ that points to the front of the tractor,,, correct ?], and the opposite end is large enough to slide over the pto shaft, as the shaft splines then seat into the gear splines. I hope...

p.s.

Now, on your home page, who "really" is that handsome, young couple pictured ?

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 27, 2000 at 05:03:16: IP Address: 209.163.7.51

In Reply to: 770 hydraulic pump posted by Greg on June 26, 2000 at 19:56:44:

Hi Greg! As far as the seals and the position of the lips are concerned use your preference. The way they were is the way I'd reinstall. Be sure to reinstall the drive gear the way it was. Besides the things you mentioned, there is a snap ring groove which should be to the rear. As far as the picture, I don't know how that got in there. Maybe they're trying to scare the mouse away. Larry

Posted by Greg R. on June 27, 2000 at 19:27:36: IP Address: 209.153.14.18

In Reply to: Re: 770 hydraulic pump posted by Larry Harsin on June 27, 2000 at 05:03:16:

Hey, Thanks,,,, I got the pump brgs. and seals today. I think I got it back together correctly. It is pretty stiff, but I can turn the pump with a pair of channel locks on the little stub that sticks out the back of the pump, maybe it will loosen up after it runs a while.

REVERSE-O-TRAC LEAK,CAN I USE A ADDITIVE

Posted by CONRAD on June 24, 2000 at 21:57:30: IP Address: 63.15.112.182

LEAK BEHIND T-CONV.CAN I USE STOP LEAK.ITS 770 INDUSTRIAL WLOADER&HOE HOW DO I CHANGE THE 2 FAN BELTS W A FRONT PTO

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 26, 2000 at 19:43:36: IP Address: 209.163.7.48

In Reply to: REVERSE-O-TRAC LEAK,CAN I USE A ADDITIVE posted by CONRAD on June 24, 2000 at 21:57:30:

Hi Conrad, Go to NAPA and get automatic transmission conditioner that will soften the seals. This may not work but it's worth a try. I wouldn't use Stop Leak. To change the fan belts you are going to have to unbolt the drive shaft from the crank pulley before you can install these belts. This procedure should be covered in your Operator's Manual. If it looks like it would be simpler to unbolt the pump and slide it forward, then do that. Larry

oliver 550 Posted by Ed on June 23, 2000 at 12:30:18: IP Address: 63.11.38.232

I just bought a oliver tractor.The decal said 550 on it,but would like to make sure before I buy a manual for it.The serial numbers are 45-0033 and below that is 144084-519 could you tell me what year and horse power it is.Would appreciate it.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 23, 2000 at 16:56:02: IP Address: 209.163.7.28

In Reply to: oliver 550 posted by Ed on June 23, 2000 at 12:30:18:

Hi Ed! You have a 1964 550. It is 43 hp. Larry

Posted by Ed on June 24, 2000 at 08:50:33: IP Address: 63.11.38.207

In Reply to: Re: oliver 550 posted by Larry Harsin on June 23, 2000 at 16:56:02:

Thanks for the information Larry!Have a few more questions for you.Would like to know the best place to purchase a manual.Also I would like to change all the fluids before working it.Until I get manual could you tell me the best weight oils and capacities for motor,transmition,and power steering.I live in Florida if that would be a factor on the oil weight.Thank You!

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 26, 2000 at 19:50:24: IP Address: 209.163.7.48

In Reply to: Re: oliver 550 posted by Ed on June 24, 2000 at 08:50:33:

Hi Ed. You can get a manual from HPOCA Headquarters in Charles City IA. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net Use 10W-30 in the engine year around. 20 weight hydraulic oil will work in the hydraulic system, or universal hydraulic fluid. I would wait til I got my Operator's Manual before I changed the lube in the transmission and differential. At the present time if it is low, add some 80-90 gear lube. Larry

Diesel Fuel in Oil

Posted by Steve on June 23, 2000 at 12:13:48: IP Address: 216.192.10.1

I have a 1957 Super 55 Diesel Tractor and I have diesel fuel getting into the oil. I noticed it when the valve cover breather with dripping out this fuel/oil mixture. I checked the oil and found it to be about a quart over. I drained it and it was thinned out from the fuel. Could it be the fuel pump leaking internally? Thanks Steve

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 23, 2000 at 16:50:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.28

In Reply to: Diesel Fuel in Oil posted by Steve on June 23, 2000 at 12:13:48:

Hi Steve!The first thing I'd check is the transfer pump on the right side of the engine. It probably has a hole in the diaphram. If this isn't the problem, let me know. Larry

S55 3pt

Posted by DL on June 22, 2000 at 13:15:21: IP Address: 63.75.227.71

I recently bought a Super 55, with a non-function 3pt hitch.

Much to my suprise I found the cylinder broke from the top cover and punched through the hyd. oil pan. What would cause such a thing to happen?? I always figured the lift arms would break before the cylinder mount would (certainly do a lot less damage if this was the case)

Anyone know a source for the following parts: E2081, E2160, and E2002?

Thanks

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 22, 2000 at 21:45:16: IP Address: 209.163.7.22

In Reply to: S55 3pt posted by DL on June 22, 2000 at 13:15:21:

DL. Check with Smitty's Tractor Parts, Dalton OH.330-832-9792. It's best to call in the evening. Another place to check is Central Tractor. 888-828-3276. I don't know the cause of the problem but it could be the linkage to the control valve got out of adjustment or got broken and let the pump keep pushing oil into the cylinder when the valve should have shut it off. In other words something got out of adjustment or broke. Larry Harsin

Spin on Filters

Posted by Richard Skinner on June 21, 2000 at 05:25:05: IP Address: 63.166.22.87

On the 1650D, is there anything special about the spin on filters for the hydrapower and the transmission? I guess what I'm asking is if I go to the filter place and match them up would everything be okay?

Posted by Skinner on June 22, 2000 at 19:16:00: IP Address: 63.166.22.100

In Reply to: Spin on Filters posted by Richard Skinner on June 21, 2000 at 05:25:05:

Thanks for the help.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 21, 2000 at 18:59:19: IP Address: 209.163.7.47

In Reply to: Spin on Filters posted by Richard Skinner on June 21, 2000 at 05:25:05:

Hi Richard, What these fellows are saying is good information. Personally I prefer to get the original equipment filters from AGCO if I can and if I can get them reasonably. Larry

Posted by Dean on June 21, 2000 at 11:53:45: IP Address: 208.155.28.222

In Reply to: Spin on Filters posted by Richard Skinner on June 21, 2000 at 05:25:05:

Your hydraul-shift takes a FRAM PH16 and the transmission/rear end takes a FRAM PH8A. They are available at any Wal-Mart.

Posted by larry wolfe on June 21, 2000 at 11:02:51: IP Address: 207.226.216.136

In Reply to: Spin on Filters posted by Richard Skinner on June 21, 2000 at 05:25:05:

If you get the correct numbers they are fine. In some cases other filters will screw on and not work. I usualy buy them on sale at trax auto and get AC or FRAM. Most auto places stock the PH-20 ,it was used on so maney things.

Float for a 70 carburator

Posted by Wayne on June 19, 2000 at 22:46:51: IP Address: 205.188.198.153

The float in my BS-393-J carb for my 70 was in bad shape. Several pin holes where it sat in water for years. I tried to repair but experance tells me that it won't last. NAPA found the kit but had no idea how to find a float Part number B-7630-B. Need help!! My service manual doesn't include the coil system that my 1948 "70" has. I set the points to 18 and the spark plugs to 25. Is that correct? Thanks. Wayne

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 20, 2000 at 07:13:22: IP Address: 209.163.7.24

In Reply to: Float for a 70 carburator posted by Wayne on June 19, 2000 at 22:46:51:

Hi Wayne! That float is the same float that is used on A & B Farmalls (and possibly B & C Allis Chalmers). Go to your Case/I H Dealer and ask for part number IH 53783D. If this won't work for you, you can order one from Estherville Implement 712-362-5396. Or if you like we can get it and send it to you. It is approx. $20 plus shipping. I ususally set the points at 20. Larry

i have a 60

Posted by clayton on June 19, 2000 at 16:55:21: IP Address: 208.194.204.109

I got an Oliver 60 rowcrop and i have nothing to go on. If someone could tell me a place to get rebuild kits for everything and manuals it would be greatly appreciated e-mail at csellers6@excite.com

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 19, 2000 at 21:09:54: IP Address: 209.163.7.70

In Reply to: i have a 60 posted by clayton on June 19, 2000 at 16:55:21:

Hi Clayton. You can get a manual for your 60 from Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Headquarters in Charles City. hpocacc@fiai.net. Check with Doug Metzger, 5388 Sextro Road, Minster OH 45865-9331. Phone: 419-628-2345. They have had rebuild kits for 60's in the past. And they have manuals also. Another place to check is Don Chandler, P.O. Box 15, Lovell ME 04051 Phone: 207-935-3339. Don's family were Oliver dealers for years and they have a lot of 60 parts. This will get you started. Larry

Cletrac AG (maybe)

Posted by Pat on June 18, 2000 at 19:17:45: IP Address: 209.173.64.61

Hi,we have an old Cletrac with the serial number plate missing .It has the Hercules OOC engine.Does anyone know if the number is stamped in the frame and if so where? Thanks Pat

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 19, 2000 at 05:10:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.36

In Reply to: Cletrac AG (maybe) posted by Pat on June 18, 2000 at 19:17:45:

Hi Pat. I don't know. Contact Landis Zimmerman 1450 Diamond Station Rd. Ephrata PA 17522. Phone: 717-738-2573. He's an expert on Cletrac and has parts etc. Larry

Oliver 70 Block

Posted by Jerry on June 17, 2000 at 16:48:58: IP Address: 152.163.204.56

After cleaning up an engine, I found a crack between the #3 and #4 cylinders and the #5 and #6. These are found on top of the block where the head attaches. The sleeves are in good shape but I fear I might need another block. When I quit running the thing years ago it had a miss which I thought was a valve problem. I had the valves re done and they were in pretty bad shape.

Do you think it would be worth putting it back together and see what happens or look in a different direction?

Jerry

PS I do have another Oliver 70 that I am using for parts but have no idea what kind of shape the moter is in...

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 17, 2000 at 17:31:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.65

In Reply to: Oliver 70 Block posted by Jerry on June 17, 2000 at 16:48:58:

Jerry. I'd put it back together. That crack on top won't hurt a thing. That's common in 70's. Don't worry about it. It's when the crack is on the bottom where the sleeves seal to the bottom that you have trouble. Larry

Posted by Jerry on June 17, 2000 at 18:06:15: IP Address: 152.163.195.207

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 70 Block posted by Larry Harsin on June 17, 2000 at 17:31:35:

Larry, that is the best news I have heard all day. I am not a big engine mechanic so I don't know alot about these things. I could see where the crack imprinted the old head gasket and I didn't know if the gasket itself was leaking in between the cylinders.

Also, do you know a place where I can order the cork to make my own pan gaskets? I know where I can get a full engine gasket set up but was hoping to save a little money in case I decide to play with the other motor that I have.

Again, thanks a bunch.

Jerry

Posted by Dean on June 18, 2000 at 12:36:00: IP Address: 208.155.28.224

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 70 Block posted by Jerry on June 17, 2000 at 18:06:15:

NAPA carries bulk cork sheet gasket material.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 18, 2000 at 05:42:21: IP Address: 209.163.7.4

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 70 Block posted by Jerry on June 17, 2000 at 18:06:15:

Hi Jerry. I don't know where to get cork to cut your own pan gasket. I have some pan gaskets. If you are interested in one of them, email me. Larry

Belt Pulley

Posted by Lindley Clark on June 15, 2000 at 06:48:10: IP Address: 206.160.142.6

I am looking for a belt pulley for my 1944 Oliver 60. I have found a person who has one on a 70 he is parting out. He says it mounts on a splined shaft held on by one bolt in the end of the shaft. This appears to be the same set-up that my tractor has. I can't find anyone who knows for sure if it will fit my tractor. Do any of you Oliver experts know if this pulley will fit? If it won't do any of you have one that will?

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 15, 2000 at 11:44:10: IP Address: 209.163.7.46

In Reply to: Belt Pulley posted by Lindley Clark on June 15, 2000 at 06:48:10:

Lindley. The 70 belt pulley won't work on a 60. I have one I really don't want to sell but I can find one for you. Send me an email as I'm not sure I still have your address. Larry

Posted by Lindley Clark on June 15, 2000 at 12:32:58: IP Address: 206.160.142.6

In Reply to: Re: Belt Pulley posted by Larry Harsin on June 15, 2000 at 11:44:10:

I have tried to e-mail you all morning, I can't get it to go through. I would like for you to find me a pulley for the 60, I will continue to try to e-mail.

1650 3 pt

Posted by Adam on June 14, 2000 at 21:35:45: IP Address: 209.181.177.145

When carring a load the 3 pt bounces on my 1650 nomader the position. This is causing overheating of the oil. It will hold up the cultivator for at least a week with out being started. Is this the servo valve or is there somthing else like the flow divider/priority valve that may effect this?

At what temp is the engine considered overheated? It is the direct injected model.

Also do you know if the factory rops will fit on the 1650 from a 2255? Thanks for any help

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 15, 2000 at 05:43:42: IP Address: 209.163.7.20

In Reply to: 1650 3 pt posted by Adam on June 14, 2000 at 21:35:45:

Adam. I would make sure that the unit is not pumping when the arms are at the extreme top. There should be some free travel at the top of the travel otherwise the unit will overheat from pumping. You can adjust this with the small turnbuckle below the 3 pt. hitch lever. Also there's a draft control lockout on the left side of the unit consisting of a stop bolt and a locknut. Try locking the draft control out and see if that helps. If you need and operator's manual which covers these items, you can get one from the HPOCA Hdq. in Charles City IA. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. That rops off the 2255 might work possibly with a little modification. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on June 15, 2000 at 11:15:03: IP Address: 207.226.216.142

In Reply to: Re: 1650 3 pt posted by Larry Harsin on June 15, 2000 at 05:43:42:

The bolt holes on a rops for a 2255 are too wide frount to back unless there are more holes that can't be seen underneth. I do know I could not get a 1955 on a 1650.

Posted by larry wolfe on June 15, 2000 at 18:22:35: IP Address: 207.226.217.47

In Reply to: Re: 1650 3 pt posted by larry wolfe on June 15, 2000 at 11:15:03:

After adding 5 rollbars to my olivers I can add some info to help others. The tractors below 70hp. have rops that will fit each other,1600,1550,1650,2-70 etc. The tractors above 70hp have rops that fit each other,1750,1800,1850,1955,2150,2-105,etc. But switching between above 70hp and below 70hp does NOT work.

Posted by Adam on June 15, 2000 at 22:09:51: IP Address: 216.161.109.47

In Reply to: Re: 1650 rops posted by larry wolfe on June 15, 2000 at 18:22:35:

Do you have truble getting you tractors into 30" rows with the rops? I ran into trouble with space for the fenders and rops frame on my 2255 that is why it got removed. Is there a way around this?

Posted by larry wolfe on June 16, 2000 at 11:03:56: IP Address: 207.226.216.59

In Reply to: Re: 1650 rops posted by Adam on June 15, 2000 at 22:09:51:

I don't have a 2255. They have large tires that could make it tough. I have added one to a 1950T with 18.4/38 Dual tires. I had to remove fender brakets and reverse and switch to the opisite side. Then redril the fender holes. This was the same on most all I added,1600,1650,1850.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 15, 2000 at 05:42:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.20

In Reply to: 1650 3 pt posted by Adam on June 14, 2000 at 21:35:45:

1600 overhaul

Posted by Don on June 13, 2000 at 20:20:08: IP Address: 205.188.193.28

what is the average cost for a complete engine overhaul and a hydrapower gasket kit? im not looking to do it anytime soon, just getting an idea on the price

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 14, 2000 at 05:02:34: IP Address: 209.163.7.29

In Reply to: 1600 overhaul posted by Don on June 13, 2000 at 20:20:08:

Don. An overhaul kit will run about $1250 and a gasket and seal kit for the hydra-power will run about $75. These are just ballpark figures. Things can vary a lot. If you need clutch parts or valve train parts etc. it will add to the cost. This does not include labor either. Larry

Posted by Don on June 14, 2000 at 08:48:43: IP Address: 152.163.205.10

In Reply to: Re: 1600 overhaul posted by Larry Harsin on June 14, 2000 at 05:02:34:

the clutch in the tractor is fine yet, and im waiting for my dad to build a new workshop and then sometime ill drive it in and go to work. in the mean time ill keep it on the manure spreader and keep it running. right now our 1755 is in the shop having major work done on it so we wont be bale to afford it. they replaced both pumps, put in new injectors, and it still had a miss in #2 and 4 so they pulled the head and sent that in. they also sent in a valve i guess so if it aint running good by the time i get it back, im gonna be pretty mad because the bill is pretty high as it is without the labor.

Posted by Don on June 13, 2000 at 20:21:38: IP Address: 205.188.193.28

In Reply to: 1600 overhaul posted by Don on June 13, 2000 at 20:20:08:

its a 1964 gas

QUESTION ABOUT OVERHAUL KIT

Posted by BRANON HOWELL on June 13, 2000 at 09:11:24: IP Address: 152.163.201.77

LARRY IT'S ME AGAIN. DO U HAVE OVERHAUL KIT FOR A 77? IF U DON'T WHERE CAN I GET ONE AT THE CHEAPEST? THANK YOU BRANDON HOWELL

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 13, 2000 at 17:41:30: IP Address: 209.163.7.35

In Reply to: QUESTION ABOUT OVERHAUL KIT posted by BRANON HOWELL on June 13, 2000 at 09:11:24:

Hi Brandon! Do you need standard bearings or undersized? Do you need valves and guides? Are you doing the overhaul in frame or are you taking the engine completely out and tearing it down? I'm assuming you need rod bushings. I'll check out the prices and possibly I can put a kit together for you. Larry

Posted by brandon howell on June 15, 2000 at 12:04:09: IP Address: 205.188.193.33

In Reply to: Re: QUESTION ABOUT OVERHAUL KIT posted by Larry Harsin on June 13, 2000 at 17:41:30:

I think i need standard bearings don't need valves and guides. i think we r doing and in frame. yes we need rod bushings. I have another question. What about the crank case journels? My manual says that the main bearing journel is 2.250-2.249, and the con. rod bearing journel is 2.000-1.999. What does this mean. I don't even have a clue what a journel is. Help, thanx again Brandon

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 15, 2000 at 18:46:53: IP Address: 209.163.7.20

In Reply to: Re: QUESTION ABOUT OVERHAUL KIT posted by brandon howell on June 15, 2000 at 12:04:09:

Brandon. The journal is where the bearing fits around the crank. On the crank shaft you have 4 main bearings and 6 rod bearings. The measurement 2.250 means that your main bearings are 2.25 inch in diameter. The standard rod bearings are 2 inches in diameter. We are getting a kit put together and will email you. I don't seem to have your email address. Send us an email. Larry

Oliver 70 Cultivators

Posted by Jerry on June 12, 2000 at 10:09:37: IP Address: 152.163.201.61

Hi, I was wondering if there is a place I can get a diagram or something to install the cultivators on an Oliver 70 row crow tractor. I have the cultivators but I need instructions or a diagram to help me out.

Thanks in advance

Jerry

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 12, 2000 at 18:29:30: IP Address: 209.163.7.65

In Reply to: Oliver 70 Cultivators posted by Jerry on June 12, 2000 at 10:09:37:

Hi Jerry! All that we seem to have here is a picture of one on a tractor. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at the Oliver Headquarters in Charles City IA. Her email address is: hpocacc@fiai.net She might have a diagram to send to you. Larry

Posted by Jerry on June 12, 2000 at 10:13:44: IP Address: 152.163.201.61

In Reply to: Oliver 70 Cultivators posted by Jerry on June 12, 2000 at 10:09:37:

Oops, got the wrong email address down.

Here is the right one.

JVITEKDC@aol.com

1850 Over/Under Leaking into motor oil

Posted by Tim on June 11, 2000 at 21:55:21: IP Address: 208.247.254.51

Hi Larry,

I have the transmission together and have planted all my crops.The over/under seemed sluggish so I checked fluid 2qts low. Refilled started mowing hay.Acting strange again.Checked fluid again 2 qts low.Also checked motor oil about 1 gallon overfull.There is only a very little wet area on the bottom of the bellhousing of clutch where there is a 1/4inch hole drilled.The hole is open up to flywheel.My question is how does oil get from over/under into engine crankcase.Can't be past rear main oil seal it should all leak out that 1/4 inch hole in the bottom This is on a 1969 1850 with a 354 perkins.Any suggestions before I tear into it again.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 12, 2000 at 04:35:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.7

In Reply to: 1850 Over/Under Leaking into motor oil posted by Tim on June 11, 2000 at 21:55:21:

Tim. Check where the oil cooler line for the hydraul goes past the dip stick tube for the engine. I've had this happen. The line wears against the dip stick tube then oil goes from the hydraul into the crankcase. Larry

Posted by Tim on June 13, 2000 at 20:40:47: IP Address: 208.247.254.62

In Reply to: Re: 1850 Over/Under Leaking into motor oil posted by Larry Harsin on June 12, 2000 at 04:35:47:

I checked the line it has rubbed through the dipstick tube. I am going to take the line and tube out and get them brazed. I am going to use a piece of rubber to shield the two when I put them back together.Then it can't happen again.

Thanks Larry

Another Problem - 1650D Hydrapower

Posted by Richard Skinner on June 11, 2000 at 07:10:12: IP Address: 63.166.22.99

I just checked the pto hub to make sure she would fit and it does, however I just noticed my input shaft for hydrapower is worn pretty bad. There is at least 0.100" clearance between the shaft and the pilot bearing. The input shaft also has a lot of side to side play, so much that it hits the sides of the throw bearing guide tube. The front and rear seals leak on the hydrapower so I need to reseal it while the engine is out.

How tough is it to find this input shaft and seal kits and how hard is this job? I haven't torn anything down yet.

It appears that the old gal has a lot of wear and tear on her. I hope the tranny and diff isn't as bad as the rest of the driveline.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 11, 2000 at 21:08:58: IP Address: 209.163.7.26

In Reply to: Another Problem - 1650D Hydrapower posted by Richard Skinner on June 11, 2000 at 07:10:12:

Richard. I think I may have that shaft. I'll check and let you know in the morning. We just got home from Charles City from the 3rd annual Oliver Reunion. I ususlly buy the gaskets and seals separate rather than the kit. It helps to keep the cost down as with the kit you're buying parts that you don't need. If you want me to, I'll get the parts that you need and send instructions along on how to do it. The hardest part of the job is to install the output seal on the rear of the unit. There is a spanner nut at this location. You'll probably have to use a hammer and a chisel to unstake this nut and then a hammer and a punch to remove the nut. A special spanner nut tool is the thing to use but not too many people have those. In any case it's common to have the threads ruined on the shaft or the nut after removal. If this happens you will need a new nut and the shaft will have to be rethreaded. Sometimes I take a chisel and cut the nut and remove it so I don't ruin the threads on the shaft. I'll email you in the morning. Larry

Posted by Richard Skinner on June 12, 2000 at 17:06:35: IP Address: 63.166.22.90

In Reply to: Re: Another Problem - 1650D Hydrapower posted by Larry Harsin on June 11, 2000 at 21:08:58:

Thanks Larry, I will tear it down this week or weekend to see exactly what I need. You know, we sleeve pto housing shafts all the time where they go into the pilot bearing. Maybe this may be an option. Anyways, when I get her torn down I will know more about it.

Hope you all had a good time at the reunion.

Richard

OLIVER 55

Posted by KAREN on June 10, 2000 at 18:10:09: IP Address: 205.188.200.28

ANY INFO ON HOW TO PUT THE PTO TOGETHER OR THE CLUTCH-THEY REPLACED THE CLUTCH AND NOW THE PTO'S NOT WORKING AND WE CAN'T CUT OUR HAY THATNKS FOR ANY INFO

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 11, 2000 at 20:50:55: IP Address: 209.163.7.45

In Reply to: OLIVER 55 posted by KAREN on June 10, 2000 at 18:10:09:

Karen. We need more info. Which clutch did they replace - the engine clutch or the PTO clutch? The PTO is driven off of the pressure plate on the engine clutch. If the PTO worked before, apparently something isn't right in the engine clutch. If they worked on the PTO clutch, something apparently was put together wrong there. Do the guys who worked on it have a shop manual? If not we can get the info from our shop manual and relay it to you after you send us some more info. Larry

OLIVER 60 ROW CROP REAR AXLE

Posted by WOODY on June 08, 2000 at 19:17:01: IP Address: 205.188.199.159

I NEED PART NUMBER H 703 REAR AXLE FELT BEEN LOOKING FOR MONTHS NO BODY HAS IT AND NO BODY CAN TELL ME A ALTERNATIVE PRODUCT CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT I CAN DO ! I'M A NOVICE RESTORER

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 08, 2000 at 19:40:08: IP Address: 209.163.7.56

In Reply to: OLIVER 60 ROW CROP REAR AXLE posted by WOODY on June 08, 2000 at 19:17:01:

Woody. Contact Don C. Chandler Jr. P.O. Box 15 Lovell ME 04051 Phone 207-935-3339. He was an Oliver dealer for many years and has sold a lot of 60's and has many new and used 60 parts. Larry

770 hydraulic pump

Posted by Greg R. on June 07, 2000 at 21:31:40: IP Address: 209.153.14.13

Whew,, I need to hire a helper, between going to a Nascar race in Charlotte, then fishin' at Lake Rathbun [ in your state] the next weekend, the pump job is collecting dust. A buddy took that broken center housing piece to his shop, made a jig to hold it in place, and had his "pro rod-burners" tig weld it, thet felt it was good to go,,,,

So, now I am looking at the bearings, they look good, but I noticed you can "create" a gap if you squeeze the rollers "tight" together, at first I thought I may have lost a roller or two, but,,, all four seem to be the same,,, I sure don't think I lost rollers out of all four. So is there always going to be a gap, if you squeeze the rollers tight together [ 1/8-1/4 in. ]?? Or should I just go ahead and try to find new bearings ?

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 07, 2000 at 21:53:19: IP Address: 209.163.7.35

In Reply to: 770 hydraulic pump posted by Greg R. on June 07, 2000 at 21:31:40:

Greg. If you have that much space, you need new bearings. I have these bearings on hand also the seals. Or you can go to your AGCO dealer. Larry

Posted by Greg R. on June 08, 2000 at 05:50:43: IP Address: 209.153.14.22

In Reply to: Re: 770 hydraulic pump posted by Larry Harsin on June 07, 2000 at 21:53:19:

ok,,, I will stop by the AGCO store and see if they have them,, thanks.

power steering pump

Posted by chief613 on June 07, 2000 at 19:02:11: IP Address: 209.222.74.113

Larry thanks for all the advice on replacin the coupling, couldnt get the correct part so had a to get a substitute and take it to the machine shop, but alls well in that area now.

After cleanin up all the grease and oil, i found where one leak is coming from, the power steerin pump. It seems to be leakin out from the shaft, it looks like a rubber seal around the shaft and its lookin a little ragged. Is there a rebuild kit availible or just the seal. Or maybe a little sneakey trick to keep it from dripping

thanks, ur a lot of help

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 07, 2000 at 21:48:55: IP Address: 209.163.7.35

In Reply to: power steering pump posted by chief613 on June 07, 2000 at 19:02:11:

Chief. I need to know more about the year of the tractor and the brand of pump. Can you describe it more. They used 3 different pumps and I need to know which one. Does this tractor have hydro static steering or does it have the steering shaft along side the engine? Larry

Posted by chief613 on June 08, 2000 at 14:24:18: IP Address: 209.222.74.84

In Reply to: Re: power steering pump posted by Larry Harsin on June 07, 2000 at 21:48:55:

sorry bout that wasnt even thinkin. its from a '65 770 ind. its a Cesna pump, hydro static, no steerin shaft.

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 09, 2000 at 21:19:12: IP Address: 209.163.7.50

In Reply to: Re: power steering pump posted by chief613 on June 08, 2000 at 14:24:18:

Chief. Try a new seal but it might not hold it. You may have to get another pump. Let me know if you need another pump and I'll help you find one. Larry

Oliver Super 77 PTO

Posted by Don on June 07, 2000 at 13:48:16: IP Address: 63.75.227.71

Looking at buying an Super 77 + loader.

For some reason the PTO shaft was pulled and the valve appears to be missing or never there.

Was PTO stardard on these machines, or was it an option.

Is it practical to reinstall PTO back in to the tractor? Are the parts easy to find, and install, and reasonable cost?

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 07, 2000 at 21:43:14: IP Address: 209.163.7.35

In Reply to: Oliver Super 77 PTO posted by Don on June 07, 2000 at 13:48:16:

Don. Yes you can reinstall the PTO back into the tractor. I have the parts you will need. Email me and say what you need and I'll quote you a price. Larry

Need help with Oliver 70

Posted by Kevin on June 06, 2000 at 18:29:11: IP Address: 209.173.64.59

Hi I just bought my first Oliver tractor so I don't know where to get all the parts that I need for it. Does anybody know if a mag. off of any other tractor will fit. If so do you know where I can get one. I also need spades for tip-toe rear wheels Any suggestions. Kevin

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 06, 2000 at 22:14:42: IP Address: 209.163.7.70

In Reply to: Need help with Oliver 70 posted by Kevin on June 06, 2000 at 18:29:11:

Kevin. I don't think a mag. off another brand of tractor will fit. You can get a rebuilt mag. for an Oliver 70 at Central Tractor 888-828-3276. For spades for the tip-toe you can try Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332 or Arnie Meyer at 507-372-7788. I have a lot of 70 parts if you need any other stuff. Larry

Super55 Transmission Issue

Posted by John Wilson on June 06, 2000 at 13:19:03: IP Address: 206.190.14.214

Hi Larry. I need your advice. I have a 1957 S55 that has a foaming tranny oil problem. It has been suggested it was due to water in the tranny and that a 3-4 gallon "flush" with kerosene would do the trick. I did that and replaced the fluid with a 140 wt. gear oil this past spring.

Guess what, it still seems to foam but not as much as before. The Tractor is stored inside so no rain or snow has has a chance to seep in. What else could be causing the foaming? I had a thought that it might be the tranny vent cap and filter that might be plugged. I've haven't changed it out yet.

Thanks for your help.

John in Wisconsin

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 06, 2000 at 22:03:10: IP Address: 209.163.7.70

In Reply to: Super55 Transmission Issue posted by John Wilson on June 06, 2000 at 13:19:03:

John. I think I'd be inclined to drain all that oil out of there and put in a transmission fluid such as hy-tran such as Case/IH uses or hy-gard which JD uses. Foaming is usually caused by using incorrect fluid but the Operator's Manual says that 140 is correct. Go ahead and check the vent cap and filter and make sure they are clean. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on June 07, 2000 at 10:47:33: IP Address: 207.226.217.131

In Reply to: Re: Super55 Transmission Issue posted by Larry Harsin on June 06, 2000 at 22:03:10:

In my area some places sell foaming oil. It's used in some gearboxes to get oil to the top. Check your container and see if it say's nonfoaming

need 1600 help

Posted by Nils Rittweger on June 06, 2000 at 04:20:46: IP Address: 24.147.188.129

Hi Larry, this is a message I posted to the ATIS board. I was given your name. Can you please tell me what you think about all this.

Thanks, Nils

After six months of poking around via the internet and phone, I've decided I NEED to ask for help. I'm trying to help my best friend put together his first antique tractor. It's an Oliver 1600 with a Waukeshau F231G, 6 cyl gas motor. This motor needs everything, simple as that. Pistons, sleeves, bearings, valves, springs, guides, cam, lifters, governor and more. And!.....the head has a large area encompassing cyls 3+4 which bears the discolored marks of severe overheating and extensive welding. Perhaps the discoloration is from the welding. But anyhow....

Where I'm at right now is that I have many of the parts new/used already located and in doing so I have become increasingly uncomfortable about this "little rebuild project". I just don't like some of the thing I've found. Very poor parts availability. Sky high prices. Very little experienced advise. And most of all....some respected opinions.

I thought this motor would be a cake walk and maybe it is for other people outside of MA but I'm feeling a little exasperated. These are some of the things I wish I could answer better:

1. Am I wasting my time and money doing this particular motor? 2. Could I possibly find another? Where? Would a diesel be easier to find? 3. Where can I find someone who might know about these things?

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 06, 2000 at 21:47:49: IP Address: 209.163.7.8

In Reply to: need 1600 help posted by Nils Rittweger on June 06, 2000 at 04:20:46:

Nils. First of all you are going to have a lot of money in this engine by the time you get done. Probably more than the tractor is worth. Secondly, the diesel engine in a 1600 is an 880 engine with a Roosa injection system. 880 diesel parts are easier found. However, any engine you find will probably have to have a major overhaul and will be expensive. For another engine, check with Smitty's Tractor Parts in Dalton OH - 330-832-9792. It's best to call Smitty in the evenings. You could check with Maibach Tractor Parts in OH 800-808-9934 or Doug Johnson in IA 319-347-6332. Larry

Front Seal Conversion

Posted by Richard Skinner on June 02, 2000 at 05:30:39: IP Address: 63.166.22.73

Larry,

What is involved in converting the old spring type front main seal over to a standard lip type seal for the 283D? Are there kits available and are they expensive?

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 03, 2000 at 06:42:24: IP Address: 209.163.7.57

In Reply to: Front Seal Conversion posted by Richard Skinner on June 02, 2000 at 05:30:39:

Richard. I have a used cover and a pulley that would work if you want to change to the lip type seal. These would be $100. Larry

Posted by Richard SKinner on June 05, 2000 at 05:12:55: IP Address: 63.166.22.78

In Reply to: Re: Front Seal Conversion posted by Larry Harsin on June 03, 2000 at 06:42:24:

Larry,

Hold off on the cover until I get back with you. We have tons of VRG parts in the scrap bin. Let me see if I can locate a cover and pulley here when I get back in town. PS. Send the Money Order off for the Hub on Wed of last week so you should be getting it soon.

Thanks,

Richard

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 02, 2000 at 17:05:39: IP Address: 209.163.7.57

In Reply to: Front Seal Conversion posted by Richard Skinner on June 02, 2000 at 05:30:39:

Richard. What you need is a different timing cover. I'll go look in my parts warehouse. I may have what you need. I'll let you know. Larry

283D Pistons / Liner kits

Posted by Richard Skinner on June 01, 2000 at 21:13:20: IP Address: 63.166.22.84

Larry, My piston liner kits have been backordered again! Now Arrow is saying it will be towards the end of July before they will have any. They did qoute me $68.00 each since I have to wait which is an excellent price for piston, pin, rings, keepers, and liner with orings.

My question is, Haun industries, which supplies tons of VR parts, stated installing VRD310 or VRD330 pistons and liners is common on these engines. Now I haven't researched it yet, but do you know off hand if this is really an option?

Thanks for the help (and the lead on the PTO shaft).

Richard

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 02, 2000 at 17:02:11: IP Address: 209.163.7.57

In Reply to: 283D Pistons / Liner kits posted by Richard Skinner on June 01, 2000 at 21:13:20:

Richard. I don't know if this is an option or not. I called a place today to check and I havn't gotten a response back from them yet. Probably not a good sign. I also checked with Central Tractor and an overhaul pkg. with bearings and gaskets was a little over $1000. This was the standard bearings not the undersized ones. Larry

Oliver 70 Paint

Posted by Jerry on June 01, 2000 at 09:07:54: IP Address: 205.188.197.27

Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me the colors to paint an Oliver 70 I am restoring. It is a 1940 model with the steel tip toe wheels with lugs and steel front wheels. I am mainly looking for info on what color to paint the wheels...

Jerry

Posted by Larry Harsin on June 01, 2000 at 21:15:57: IP Address: 209.163.7.18

In Reply to: Oliver 70 Paint posted by Jerry on June 01, 2000 at 09:07:54:

Jerry. For the green paint on the 70 this is the number using Martin Senour paint: Green 99L-11513. All of the wheels were red: Martin Senour paint Red 99L-3752. Larry

Posted by don on June 01, 2000 at 20:28:39: IP Address: 205.188.198.33

In Reply to: Oliver 70 Paint posted by Jerry on June 01, 2000 at 09:07:54:

the wheels are red. my grandpa owned one that had spider wheels and it also had rubber tires that could be interchanged and rubber ones on the front. he put it in the shed and didnt run it for 20 some years and then sold it for a couple hundred bux. it was completely rusted over but it was still a nice tractor to just look at

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