"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - June, 2008 Archives


Oliver 351 sickle mower

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on June 30, 2008 at 09:08:16 PM by Larry Kruse

1. Is an Oliver 351 - 3pt mounted sickle mower a good mower to restore? I have a complete mover but need to buy all new bearings and seals for the drive unit. 2. Was the Oliver 351 sickle mower consided a reliable mover?

Re(1): Oliver 351 sickle mower

IP: 75.104.183.53 Posted on July 1, 2008 at 05:12:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I never had one, but as far as I know, they were o.k. Larry


oliver 1900 pwr steering

IP: 64.139.109.127 Posted on June 30, 2008 at 01:48:59 PM by matt

did the 1900 come with a power steering unit? what would be the best option for putting power steering on my 1900?

Re(1): oliver 1900 pwr steering

IP: 75.104.183.53 Posted on July 1, 2008 at 05:10:38 AM by Larry Harsin

The power steering was an option, so some had it. If your's is a manual steering tractor, you may want to consider a Char-Lynn torque motor type unit, as this would be the simplest and easiest way to go at it. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1900 pwr steering

IP: 75.104.183.53 Posted on July 1, 2008 at 06:15:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I am working on archiving the May posts, this morning. I notice that there is a whole discussion on this on May 10. Scroll down and read those. They will be there til after July 4 and then they will be in the Archives. Sandra Harsin


1850 transmission

IP: 69.179.57.57 Posted on June 30, 2008 at 09:29:18 AM by Brian

Have a problem in the transmission. It started with 4th gear, with a sound of the gears not meshing together. I took the top cover off and everything looked fine-so I thought. Now I've losted all the gears in the top H of the tranny- gears 1-2-4-R1. What should I lok for?

Re(1): 1850 transmission

IP: 75.104.183.53 Posted on July 1, 2008 at 05:08:06 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the gears have come loose on the bevel pinion shaft. A spanner nut might have backed off or a thrust washer may have broken. It is a major operation to repair this, if this is the problem. Larry

Re(2): 1850 transmission

IP: 69.29.242.195 Posted on July 1, 2008 at 07:46:04 AM by Brian

To remove this shaft, does it require taking out the engine? What needs to be dismantled to repair this?

Re(3): 1850 transmission

IP: 75.104.161.75 Posted on July 2, 2008 at 05:41:07 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have to take out that bevel pinion shaft, you have to take out the bull gears and the differential. Larry


1850

IP: 68.217.206.3 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 12:15:25 PM by todd woodfield

Larry my 1850 perkins diesel with over and under only travels at 11 mph on the road is this normal or is their a problem

Re(1): 1850

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 09:29:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It's hard to tell, some of them were made to only go that fast. If the hydraul is working properly, so that it has 3 speeds, then it is probably working as the tractor was set up to work. Larry


880 oliver pto input shaft

IP: 216.220.216.164 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 10:22:41 AM by larry

1958 oliver 880 industrial tractor 12 speed transmission 2 input shafts outer 1 goes in clutch splines other smaller 1 goes in crank hub splines wich I assume is for either pto or hydraulic pump A bearing seized up and locked the center shaft aparently it runs through the transmission top plate so I can't get it out if this shaft is not needed how do I remove it? Pulled engine and tried from front of transmission had no luck.thought about cutting splines off would that work? Grandfather pulls antique tractors so pto and hydraulics are not needed. Please help I'm lost when it comes to oliver tractors

Re(1): 880 oliver pto input shaft

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 09:26:44 PM by Larry Harsin

That PTO Drive shaft is removed from the rear. If you do not need the PTO or the hydraulic, you can run the tractor without them. I would suggest that you get a Shop Manual, if you have to do much work on this tractor. A Parts Manual might also be of help. You can get these from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry


1855 hydraulics

IP: 208.126.3.148 Posted on June 28, 2008 at 07:28:42 PM by Paul

Hi Larry, I was referred to you from another site I visit that deals with Caterpillar equipment. I also live in Iowa as you do. My question is what is my next best step to determine my problem. I lost most of my hydraulic pressure to my remotes. Pulled hydraulic filter and found metal on the top of the filter. Pieces about 1/8 wide and maybe 1/2 to 3/4 long. Is my next step to pull the pump or is there any more testing i should do beforehand? Thanks, Paul

Re(1): 1855 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 06:26:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I would take the pump off and go from there. Larry


Oliver 1850

IP: 67.72.98.45 Posted on June 28, 2008 at 05:34:34 PM by Lloyd

I have a 1969 oliver 1850 gas tractor with over&under and a diesel perkings 354 engine from a white combine. What would I have to do to install the perkins in the gas tractor? Or would this not be worth the troulble?

Re(1): Oliver 1850

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 06:23:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I way I look at it, it will cost more than it is worth. It will take a different, frame, radiator, hood, bell housing and hook up from the hydraul, etc. Besides the cost of parts, it will take up an awful amount of time. I'd search for an 1850 diesel with a bad drive train (transmission) and go that way. Larry


Sickle bar mower

IP: 12.169.16.165 Posted on June 28, 2008 at 02:30:56 PM by Jake

I just got an old sickle bar mower I would like to find out what it is. It as a 7' bar 2 wheels in back that swivel a hydro cylinder looks like it bolts on to a plate and says oliver on the back of it thanks for your help

Re(1): Sickle bar mower

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 06:19:25 AM by Larry Harsin

It is probably a Model 22B. We had one that was built in the early 1950's. Larry


1850 3 point

IP: 68.112.153.43 Posted on June 28, 2008 at 07:43:52 AM by jeremy

I got the o ring to replace the leaky one on the shaft that connects to the 3 point control lever. This is the shaft that goes into the right side of the hydraulic unit.The shaft I am talking about is on page F1-12 Ref. # 19 in my oliver parts book. I disconnected the linkage to the control lever, but the shaft doesn't slide out. Do I have to take the top off the hydraulic unit in order to disconnect something on the inside to let that shaft slide out? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): 1850 3 point

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 06:16:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, You have to take the top off. You will be able to see what's there when you take the lid off. Larry

Re(2): 1850 3 point

IP: 68.112.153.43 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 04:31:02 PM by Jeremy

I have one more question. I have never dug into the hydraulics on the bigger tractors. Is it pretty straight forward? Drain the hydraulic fluid. Remove the seat and unbolt the cover and lift the cover off. Is there anything else I need to know or anything I should look for? Am I going to need a new gasket for the cover? Again thanks for your help.

Re(3): 1850 3 point

IP: 75.104.188.161 Posted on June 29, 2008 at 09:34:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is the way to go about it. You might need a new gasket, but you don't always need one. There are O rings that handle most of the pressure. To remove those shafts, you have to take the forks that operate the valves off. While you have it off, make sure you have the friction disk on the 3 pt. lever, adjusted up so that the lever will stay where you put it. Larry


oliver 880

IP: 74.75.233.159 Posted on June 25, 2008 at 04:28:49 PM by Ron Grother

Hi Larry I bought the 880.will a 88 wheat land front end fit the 880. Thanks Ron

Re(1): oliver 880

IP: 75.104.190.198 Posted on June 26, 2008 at 05:51:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it will. The front frame is different on a wheatland. Larry


550 oliver

IP: 216.231.175.90 Posted on June 25, 2008 at 08:08:32 AM by B Kendrick

My grandfather left me an 550 oliver. I had recently had the motor rebuilt and painted. I am trying to find out the year model. The number on the plate is 80-799-519 and spec 45-0035. I would like also to find out what each number represents if possible.

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 75.104.190.198 Posted on June 26, 2008 at 05:50:48 AM by Larry Harsin

That tractor with serial number 80799 was built in 1959. Larry


88 diesel block

IP: 85.239.31.34 Posted on June 25, 2008 at 00:14:19 AM by Dale K

Larry, Is there any difference between an 88 diesel block and an 88 gas block. I have a diesel 88 running, it has a weld on it, and before I rebuild it, when the times come, I would like to replace the block. There is an 88 gas block available for sale right now and I would purchase it, if it will work for me.

Re(1): 88 diesel block

IP: 75.104.190.198 Posted on June 25, 2008 at 05:35:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they are interchangeable. If you want it to stay as original as possible, check the numbers above the starter to see that the numbers match. For instance: like K100C and 190302. Those 2 numbers should match the other block, and then they will be identical. One is an Oliver number, the other is a Waukesha number. Larry


770 oliver

IP: 71.116.48.24 Posted on June 24, 2008 at 05:39:36 PM by ray gourley

I'm working on a 770. I've read your arcives on the two plugs for power beyond.My problem is on the right side 3/8" plug.If I remove the plug by the transmission fill plug I'm not going to have room for either the the tranny fill plug or the power beyond fitting.I noticed another 3/8" plug up the resivoir by the filter housing can I use this port? Also was getting hydraulic fluid into tranny.I removed the hydraulic pump and found the rear seal had fallen out.I believe it has been apart before because there were two seals installed back to back. The front seal seams to be a one piece seal. Any info would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks Ray

Re(1): 770 oliver

IP: 75.104.190.198 Posted on June 24, 2008 at 09:51:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The 3/8 plug up the reservoir by the filter housing is the one to use. A lot of times the circumstance that forced that seal out, was water got into the hydraulic unit from the tractor setting outside. Then, in cold weather, the water freezes down in the pump and forces the seals out. Sometimes, it also cracks the pump center plate. Where the water gets in is at the rubber boots on the levers. They get cracked and the water gets in there, You can get replacement boots from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681. You can get pump parts (seals, bearings, centerplates) from Nick Fassler 608-897-4993. The 2 seals back to back is the way they are supposed to be installed. That is the way they were originally. The inner seal is "lip-in" the outer seal is "lip-out. If the drive shaft on the pump is showing some wear, then I'd have both seals with lips facing in. Larry


550 adjustable frt. axle

IP: 71.226.129.7 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 07:54:41 PM by ROY FISCHER

I know the center pivot hole is at a slight angle,I need to get it sleeved,do you know what the degree of angle is ?

Re(1): 550 adjustable frt. axle

IP: 75.104.190.198 Posted on June 24, 2008 at 09:39:43 PM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't. You are just going to have to use your own judgement. When the radius arms are attached properly, you should be able to calculate about what it should be. Larry


1650

IP: 216.114.248.122 Posted on June 22, 2008 at 04:54:12 PM by Lyle

Larry i have a 1650 gas with the Holley distributor, I think the advance on it is wearing out rapid acceleration of the throttle leaves it missing really bad until it eventually comes out of it, is there any kind of a fix for this anymore or should i convert it to a electronic ignition thanks Lyle

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 07:08:24 AM by Larry Harsin

The availability of repair parts for the Holley dist. is non-existant. I would put a Mallory distributor on it. They are available through your AGCO Dealer or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. As far as going to a solid state electronic, I'm neither pro nor con. Whatever works for you. Larry


Oliver 1855 Gas

IP: 96.2.130.116 Posted on June 21, 2008 at 09:18:02 PM by john

Larry, I am currently looking at a 1855 with the gas motor. I was wondering do you know if they are rare, as you don't see many of them for sale and if their is any known problems with the gas motor in that particular tractor.

Re(1): Oliver 1855 Gas

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:29:13 AM by Larry Harsin

They are not particularly rare. I have had a few of them. They are a good reliable engine. Larry


Oliver1850 gas tractor

IP: 71.55.52.233 Posted on June 21, 2008 at 08:19:27 AM by James Wilhelm

Something in the main drive range(transmission) seized up in Low Range. I can press in on clutch and engine will still run, but as soon as I let out on the clutch while in gear it kills the engine.I can push in on clutch and still be pulled down the road. Please Advise

Re(1): Oliver1850 gas tractor

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:24:58 AM by Larry Harsin

My first thought is one of the gears on the top shaft in the transmission, is seized to the shaft. Probable cause is lube failure. Larry


oliver 1800

IP: 12.202.112.29 Posted on June 20, 2008 at 09:30:12 PM by jim i

oliver 1800 , when you try to put it in gear it grinds so bad it will hardly go in gear. Is this a clutch problem , what will it cost to fix etc. any help will be appreciated.

Re(1): oliver 1800

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:22:42 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the clutch is not releasing properly. If you can't adjust the linkage to make it release, you will probably have to tear it down. It could still be something simple, or you could spend $500-$600 easily. Larry


1265 3-point hitch problem

IP: 216.255.61.144 Posted on June 20, 2008 at 10:57:03 AM by Mark Huff

Larry, I bought a 1971 1265 Oliver (Fiat built) a couple of years ago. The 3-point hitch will not lift with any load on it. Without a load, it will raise and lower slowly, but if I even step up on it, it comes back down. I have replaced the hydraulic pump and the pressure relief valve, but no change. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1265 3-point hitch problem

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:20:09 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I really don't. I'm sure you probably cleaned the filter. If you don't have a Shop Manual, I believe I'd get one. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City Phone: 641-228-1099. It might help you to talk to the guys at Maibach Tractor. They might be able to help you. 800-808-9934. Larry


hydro pump problem

IP: 71.115.156.200 Posted on June 20, 2008 at 06:38:03 AM by Tom Hamilton

Thanks for the information on the hydro pump problem,but how do i put the pto shaft back in without pulling the engine back out? the tractor is a 1850.

Re(1): hydro pump problem

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:16:52 AM by Larry Harsin

That shaft is installed from the rear of the tractor. There is a little tin cap on the rear of the tractor. It has to be removed using a screwdriver. Then, you can check to see if the PTO shaft is far enough forward. There is a snap ring with a threaded plug, that holds that shaft forward in position. A parts manual and a shop manual would be helpful for you to understand how this all fits together. You can get these manuals from the Museum in Charles City. Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


radiator,governor

IP: 72.71.163.62 Posted on June 19, 2008 at 05:57:59 PM by mark

I have a '70 1550 that needs a new radiator,where can i find one and also there is a rod on the left side of the engine that goes to the governor and as it goes in to the governor there is a seal. Can the seal be replaced without taking the governor apart?

Re(1): radiator,governor

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:10:20 AM by Larry Harsin

No. That seal cannot be replaced without taking the governor apart. Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 or Tim Smith Email: smittytractor@aol.com about a radiator for the 1550. Larry


550 high idle speed 2200

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on June 19, 2008 at 05:56:01 PM by Larry Kruse

I just completed an overhaul with other restoration. I cannot get more than 1900rpm at high idle. On the govenor spring, how many rings should there be in front of front grip and behind rear grip on the large spring? My IT book shows 77 but not 550. Is there anything else I should check?

Re(1): 550 high idle speed 2200

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:06:23 AM by Larry Harsin

On a 77, that is like you are talking about, I usually settle for 19 active coils. I would probably just take out a coil and try it and maybe do the second one. If you have not had the governor off of the engine and inspected it, you may want to do this and check for worn parts there, before changing the active coils on your spring. Larry


REAR AXLE BEARING

IP: 65.116.104.26 Posted on June 19, 2008 at 08:59:07 AM by TYLER STIGGE

Last night I was moving bales out of the field with my 880. When I had a bale lifted and the tractor in motion, I heard a clicking noise coming from, it seemed, the end of the right side rear axle. It sounded like two blocks of wood being smacked together. I think that it may be the axle bearing going out. Is there something else I should check? It only makes the noise when the tractor has weight on the 3 point hitch. It made the noise irregularly at about 2 times per revolution of the wheel. It grew worse as I moved more bales.

Re(1): REAR AXLE BEARING

IP: 75.104.161.176 Posted on June 23, 2008 at 06:01:16 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be the lug bolts where the rim is clamped to the wheel. Also, check the axle U-bolts. Place a jack under the tractor and as you are jacking the tractor up, check for play in the axle bearings. If the first 2 things you checked, don't show anything, your suspicions may be correct. Larry


Drain Plugs

IP: 64.136.26.230 Posted on June 19, 2008 at 00:22:14 AM by Shawn Marvin

Looking for the drain plug for the lift system on an Oliver super 66 gestimated year to be 1954. Any thoughts out there?

Re(1): Drain Plugs

IP: 75.104.182.252 Posted on June 19, 2008 at 05:30:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Open one of the outlets where the hydraulic hoses hook on. Then start the engine and let it pump itself out. The drain plug is on the left side of the hydraulic system toward the back. You should get Operator's Manual from the Museum 641-228-1099. Larry


1800 Diesel Pump

IP: 69.92.97.142 Posted on June 18, 2008 at 07:27:48 PM by Dave

Larry: I have an 1800A Diesel that I want to put an 1800B (310)engine in it. I do not have an 1800B diesel injector pump but I have an 1800A pump. What would I need to do to the pump to make it work in the 310 engine? Thanks!

Re(1): 1800 Diesel Pump

IP: 75.104.182.252 Posted on June 19, 2008 at 05:27:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I do not know. Call Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200. Ask to speak to Bill. Larry


520 baler

IP: 64.111.58.112 Posted on June 17, 2008 at 08:52:33 PM by Luke

I just bought a 520 baler which appears to be in pretty good shape. I ordered an operator's manual, but haven't received it yet. After baling about the first 100 bales I ran into a problem. A shear pin on the gear system running the right knotter broke. The knotter will not turn manually. I've run loose hay through it and the needles will not come up. I'm sure a safety mechanism is preventing the baler from tying, but any suggestion on what could have cause the shear pin to break or where I should go from here. Again, the right knotter will not turn and by looking at it I see nothing wrong.

Re(1): 520 baler

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 18, 2008 at 05:05:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Those knotters can get worn and they will wedge. That is why those shear pins are in there. You will just have to work and see what you can find out. Talk to a mechanic who works on a New Holland or John Deere baler. Those knotters are pretty much the same. Larry


1755 diff.oil

IP: 65.40.251.38 Posted on June 17, 2008 at 11:07:00 AM by rex

WHAT KIND OF OIL AND HOW MUCH TO PUT IN DIFF. HOUSING ON A 1755 WE DRAINED OUT ABOUT 25 GALLONS OF WATER AND A LITTLE OIL

Re(1): 1755 diff.oil

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 17, 2008 at 11:25:45 AM by Larry Harsin

It will hold between 10 and 15 gallons. It takes 80 - 90 transmission oil. Larry


hydro pump prime

IP: 71.115.156.200 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 10:01:31 AM by Tom Hamilton

I have a 1850 that has sat 2 years,with a blown motor,now it has a different motor but the steering or pto,-nothing works!Do i need to bleed the pump?

Re(1): hydro pump prime

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:57:03 PM by Larry Harsin

When they change those engines, sometimes they don't get the PTO drive shaft far enough forward, so that it is in the drive hub. That is the first thing I would check. Larry


1650 hydraulics

IP: 12.47.110.46 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 05:40:53 AM by Kevin

Larry, I have a 1966 Oliver 1650 that I recently bought. I know it sat outside unused a lot before I got it. The problem is that when I start it the hydraulic pump is running all the time even when the two control levers are in the "neutral" position. Hydraulic oil somes out the couplers sort of like a garden hose with your thumb over it and I can hear the pump running. It pumped out a good gallon or two in a few minutes before I looked at the back of the tractor and saw what was happening. I had the top off the unit and replaced all the O rings and made sure everything was operational as far as the valves sliding back and forth in the bores. Also changed hydraulic oil and filter. Restrictor valves? Any ideas?

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 4.249.111.124 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 12:27:47 PM by Larry from M d

This is all most normal. The oil goes to the 3 point after the remote valves and this puts some back preasure on the remote hoses. So you need good couplers or plugs in those lines or oil will get pushed out. You can put male ends in with plugs on them to stop the loss. When the tractors were new and everything tight it was not as big a problem.

Re(2): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 12.47.110.46 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 01:41:56 PM by Kevin

Thanks, Larry I'll stop after work and get two new coupler ends and plugs!

Re(3): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:54:05 PM by Larry Harsin

We agree with Larry from MD. new coupler ends and plugs should help. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 68.243.2.185 Posted on June 15, 2008 at 07:15:47 PM by Justin Smith

I recently perchased an 70, with an odd serial # 256811. Could you help me out? I do think it is a styled rowcrop.

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:50:42 PM by Larry Harsin

That serial number is listed as built in 1946. It would be a styled row crop in 1946, It doesn't look odd to me. Larry


2-105 white trans prob.

IP: 72.172.51.73 Posted on June 15, 2008 at 01:26:25 PM by josh

i'm working on a 2-105 white it has the oliver transmission with the three speed in front of it anyway the tractor will not move fwd or rev. the top transmission shifts will go through all the gears but the bottom trans. will not shift through any of the gears. you can start the tractor but if you let out on the clutch the tractor loads up like its stuck between gears any info. would be greatly appreciated. thanks -josh

Re(1): 2-105 white trans prob.

IP: 24.238.76.174 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 11:50:33 AM by Bill Gethen

Hey Josh, We just sold a 2-105 as you described. Sounds like the problem we had on ours. The shift lever has probably jumped out past the shifting forks. The forks come loose on the rails and then the shifter jumps out. You'll have to tear the top of the trnsmission to get to the problem. Some times the bolts come off of the rail, hope yours didn't drop down into the transmission. Lots of lines to move to get to the top of the transmission. Good Luck, Bill

Re(2): 2-105 white trans prob.

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:47:02 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be the cluster on the top transmission shaft. It may be seized. This is usually caused by a lube failure. Larry


hyd.pump prime

IP: 71.115.156.200 Posted on June 13, 2008 at 02:21:17 PM by tom

I have a 1850 gas that blew a motor 2 years ago. Just got it runnig with another motor, and no hyd. or steering will work,do i need to prime the pump.

Re(1): hyd.pump prime

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:44:14 PM by Larry Harsin

That pump should prime itself. You may have a regulator spool in the flow divider sticking. I'd also check the hydraulic filter and replace it if necessary. Maybe you should check and see that the drive shaft that runs the PTO and the hydraulic is installed properly, so as to turn the units. Larry


Starting Oliver 66

IP: 24.23.235.45 Posted on June 13, 2008 at 01:57:35 PM by Pat

At the local museum we have a oliver 66 that will pretty easily when cold. Sometimes it takes a little ether to get it going. However, once it gets hot, then it won't start unless you give it lots of ether. Had the carb rebuilt twice now and nothing seems to help. Any ideas?

Re(1): Starting Oliver 66

IP: 67.142.130.30 Posted on June 13, 2008 at 08:25:46 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

The first, easiest thing to check would be ignition. Points and condenser are inexpensive to replace. Does it have much for spark hot? Another thing that can cause no or hard start hot is valve lash set too close. Little or no lash cold can hold valves open slightly hot causing low compression.

Re(2): Starting Oliver 66

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:40:36 PM by Larry Harsin

Brian has given you things to check. That is the primary problem - poor spark or tight intake valves. Larry


88 PTO problems

IP: 24.238.76.174 Posted on June 13, 2008 at 01:50:22 PM by Bill Gethen

I have a 88 that when you push in the clutch, both the PTO and the hydraulics stop. How is that possible when the PTO shaft runs right into the flywheel? I had lots of these apart and have talked to other Oliver guys and they can't figure it out either. I haven't pulled it apart yet but I thought I would get your opinion first.

Re(1): 88 PTO problems

IP: 12.189.122.194 Posted on June 13, 2008 at 09:28:36 PM by Larry Kruse

I had that problem before and and the live PTO shaft broke just behind the fly wheel and wedged in the drive shaft. When the drive shift turns, the back end of the PTO shaft will turn. When you disengage the clutch and stop the drive shaft, the pto will also stop. The pto shaft is what drives the hydraulic pump.

Re(2): 88 PTO problems

IP: 24.238.76.174 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 11:44:30 AM by Bill Gethen

Thanks Larry, I thought that something like that might have happened. I will let you know when I tear it apart to confirm your diagnoses. Bill

Re(3): 88 PTO problems

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:37:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Larry Kruse's evaluation. We have been gone to an Oliver Show. Sorry for the late answer. Larry


oliver 70 RC tool

IP: 80.119.137.61 Posted on June 13, 2008 at 01:42:46 AM by CHARPENTIER

bonjour, I live in france and started to renew the oliver 70RC from my grandfather.I'm looking for the tool registed STS39 Pin Puller or to get the caracteristics of this tool to built one. thanks gilles

Re(1): oliver 70 RC tool

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:35:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one of those tools. They aren't available. You will have to fabricate one of some kind. Are you talking about pulling the pin out of the frame to get the engine out.? I just use a piece of pipe that is larger than the diameter of the pin and use a threaded rod to fabricate the puller. I put a big washer over the end of the pipe and it works quite well. Larry


1450

IP: 76.31.1.104 Posted on June 12, 2008 at 08:27:48 PM by Dale

Hi Larry, I recently purchased a 1450 that has a bad starter. I have a new starter but am not sure how to wire it up. The old one was already removed when I got the tractor. Can you point me to a place that I could find a wiring diagram or offer any advice that might help?

Re(1): 1450

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:30:33 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be a wiring diagram in the Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum. 641-228-1099. Larry


1850 3 pt

IP: 68.112.153.43 Posted on June 12, 2008 at 08:15:34 PM by Jeremy

Hi Larry, I have a seal that leaks on the shaft on the left lift arm on my 3 point. Do I just take off the snap ring, pull the arm off the shaft and put in a new seal? Can I drill holes in the seal and use screws to gradually push the seal out? My other question is regarding a leak on the shaft that connects to the 3 point control lever. This is the shaft that goes into the right side of the hydraulic housing. I see in my parts book that there is a little "O" ring in there. Do I just disconnect the linkage to the control lever and slide the shaft out to replace the "O" ring. I am assuming this would be the cause for the leak. I really appreciate all your help you have given me over the past couple years.

Re(1): 1850 3 pt

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 09:28:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes to both of your questions. Yes. That is the way to replace that O ring also. Larry

Re(2): 1850 3 pt

IP: 68.112.153.43 Posted on June 27, 2008 at 12:21:06 PM by jeremy

I got the o ring to replace the leaky one on the shaft that connects to the 3 point control lever. This is the shaft that goes into the right side of the hydraulic unit.The shaft I am talking about is on page F1-12 Ref. # 19 in my oliver parts book. I disconnected the linkage to the control lever, but the shaft doesn't slide out. Do I have to take the top off the hydraulic unit in order to disconnect something on the inside to let that shaft slide out?

Re(3): 1850 3 pt

IP: 75.104.161.75 Posted on July 2, 2008 at 06:49:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is what you have to do. Larry


1800C L.P. charging system

IP: 74.93.81.193 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 05:17:24 PM by Greg

We have a problem with the amp light coming on. When the tractor is running with the lights on the amp light comes on, The generator has been rebuilt and there is a new polarized voltage regulator on it. when the amp light is on and you look inside the back of the generator there is no generating sparks in there, but as soon as the amp light goes off you see the small sparks again. When you turn the lights off the light stays on. Please give me a place to start troubleshooting. Thanks, Greg P.S. do you know how many of these were made, going to restore soon and was just wondering?

Re(1): 1800C L.P. charging system

IP: 75.104.190.154 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 11:04:26 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how many 1800C's were made. Possibly they could tell you at the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. I'm thinking that the amp light needs an adjustment on the regulator. There are 2 sets of points in the regulator. One is the cut-out relay and the other is the actual regulator. I think if you increased the tension on the regulator points, that might fix it. Larry


1850 PTO Leak

IP: 70.242.68.146 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 11:53:55 AM by Kevin

I have a 1850 Oliver Tractor and the pto shaft leaks. It is a fixed speed 540 rpm's. I want to replace the seal as well as o-rings and bearings. I am under the impression that to replace the seal I must remove the pto assembly. Is it as simple as unbolting the housing and pulling the assembly out?

Re(1): 1850 PTO Leak

IP: 75.104.190.154 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 10:59:34 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is leaking on the bottom output shaft, there is an O ring on the bearing. Replacing that might take care of the leak. Otherwise, if you want to do a complete resealing on the unit, you will have to remove the unit from the tractor and take it apart. To take the unit off, you have to drain the transmission oil out of the tractor, then the drive shaft that runs the PTO will have to be removed. You should get a Shop Manual to tell you how to take it apart etc. You can get one from the Museum 641-228-1099. Larry


1850 Hyd. Problem

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 08:35:16 AM by Jared Hoot

I haven't had this tractor very long and I am not sure what year it is. I was using it and the power steering stopped working. I checked the hyd. cylinder and all is good. The only thing I noticed was the hyd. fluid was low. It wasn't even on the stick. I had checked it earlier and it was full. I added more fluid and it took almost a whole 5 gallon bucket this was not normal. I pulled the top plate off thinking maybe there was a hole in the fluid pan. But there was not. However, the hyd. oil had somehow mixed with the gear oil. Any suggestions on how this is happening?

Re(1): 1850 Hyd. Problem

IP: 75.104.190.154 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 10:54:53 PM by Larry Harsin

The most common problem is the seal on the draft control rod that goes through the bottom of the hydraulic oil pan. This is the first place to look. Larry


1900GM

IP: 207.144.232.30 Posted on June 9, 2008 at 07:52:02 PM by Regan Bowman

can you tell me the numbers for all the fuel filters that are in the 1900,thanks

Re(1): 1900GM

IP: 75.104.190.154 Posted on June 11, 2008 at 06:05:42 AM by Larry Harsin

The Primary filter number is: 156289AS. The Final filter is: 740104AS. Larry


super 88 bigger carb

IP: 216.118.216.42 Posted on June 9, 2008 at 03:33:23 AM by JHarrison

Great website! Just wanted to know if I can use a carb off an oliver 1650 on my super 88. Looking for more power, any suggestions on what carb I should use?

Re(1): super 88 bigger carb

IP: 75.104.188.176 Posted on June 10, 2008 at 07:20:19 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to get an 880 intake manifold also. Larry


Oliver 77 and hydraulics

IP: 70.71.113.143 Posted on June 7, 2008 at 05:10:31 PM by Harvey Penner

Larry: I have a 1949 Oliver 77 with no cultivator lift. I also have a 1953 88 with hydraulics. Will the 88 hydraulic unit fit the 77? Will the 88 engine fit the 77?

Re(1): Oliver 77 and hydraulics

IP: 75.105.50.51 Posted on June 8, 2008 at 08:26:48 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic will fit the 77. The engine could be MADE to fit, but I wouldn't recommend it. Larry


Super 55

IP: 216.135.13.34 Posted on June 7, 2008 at 02:49:43 PM by Eric

Hello, do you know how wide a super 55 is. Hoping it will fit on a 6 foot wide trailer. Thanks!

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 75.105.50.51 Posted on June 8, 2008 at 08:25:04 PM by Larry Harsin

If the wheels are set clear in, it will fit. Width over all, with the wheels set in, is under 70 inches, Larry


1755 Hydraulic Oil foams

IP: 96.227.252.26 Posted on June 7, 2008 at 02:18:38 AM by Steve

Our 1755 makes a lot of noise after the hydrolic oil gets warm and when you pull the dipstick the oil looks foamy like there is air in the system. At this time operation is jerky. Situation get worse as oil get hotter. Did change the oil but the situation still exists. Could you tell us what the problem might be.

Re(1): 1755 Hydraulic Oil foams

IP: 75.105.50.51 Posted on June 8, 2008 at 08:23:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I assume that you changed the filter also. If not, I would change the filter. These systems are fussy about the proper oil being used, so make sure you have the proper oil. The oil from AGCO is Type 55 Hydraulic Fluid. I would also tighten all of the fitting on the suction side of the pump and make sure you don't have any air leaks. This is just a few ideas. Larry


1755 brakes

IP: 207.69.139.138 Posted on June 6, 2008 at 07:12:20 PM by Phil DeBoef

I have a 1973 1755D. Brakes are very noisy. (hydraulic noise) It has limited braking ability and PTO disengages when brakes are applied. What should I look for to repair?

Re(1): 1755 brakes

IP: 75.105.50.51 Posted on June 8, 2008 at 08:19:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like it could be something in the valve that feeds the oil to the brakes and the PTO. Does the hydraulic system work properly otherwise. If not, you may have a bigger problem that the brakes and the PTO. It could be a bad pump. Larry

Re(2): 1755 brakes

IP: 207.69.137.24 Posted on June 9, 2008 at 08:37:39 AM by Phil DeBoef

The remotes, 3 point, and steering all work very well. Are the brakes and PTO supplied from a common valve, is there a priority function in this valve, and where is it located?

Re(3): 1755 brakes

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 10:02:32 PM by Larry Harsin

I think they are supplied from a common valve. I would have to look this up. Call Rick at O'Brien Co. Impl. He is the Shop Foreman there. He can straighten this out for you. 800-320-6224. Larry


880 pto

IP: 74.33.151.89 Posted on June 6, 2008 at 08:58:03 AM by Matt Abbas

I recently found an 880 on a sale and needless to say it followed me home. It's my first Oliver so I have a bit of learning to do. Once I got it home I got it running and found it had a very noisy PTO. I took it apart and found the forward most bearing of the three that come out with the pto drive shaft was out. replaced all the bearings using the numbers on the old ones. Put everything back together but that forward most bearing was so tight that I could barley turn the pto after just snugging things up. Does this take a special bearing or a narrower one or am i missing somthing else? Second, it has Gemmer? power steering which does not work. Are these hard to repair as the manual makes it out to be? Lastly, The back wheels are red and I can't find any other color under the red. The fronts I found green and white under the red. Were there ever red wheels on an 880 or were these robbed from a Super 88 or somthing? Thanks for your help. Can't wait to use it to bale and such if it ever dries up.

Re(1): 880 pto

IP: 75.105.50.51 Posted on June 8, 2008 at 08:16:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I think the reason you have a bind in the PTO is that front bearing has to slide farther forward, but the alignment between the PTO housing and the main frame is off slightly. Loosen the 4 1/2" bolts that hold the PTO housing to the tractor and shift it until the bearing slides into the tractor. Then, tighten the 1/2" bolts back and you should be o.k. I repair Gemmer P.S. for customers. If you want it repaired, box it up and send it to me. Normally, it takes $300 - $400 to repair one. Address: Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334. There were not red wheels on an 880. I think you are right in thinking they came from another tractor, Larry


1655 diesel power steering

IP: 69.46.211.213 Posted on June 5, 2008 at 07:30:50 PM by Bob

still cant figure out why power steering dont work spring is good in flow divider took it apart and cleaned front of tractor where steering box is cracked both lines started it turned the steering wheel oil came out anyone have any other ideas what it could be or what to check thank you

Re(1): 1655 diesel power steering

IP: 4.248.218.100 Posted on June 7, 2008 at 07:22:24 PM by Larry from Maryland

I would guess the shaft under the gearbox has broken or slipped down. The the yoke piece could allso be slipping on the same shaft.


Super 77 Gas RC- Grill Name Plate

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on June 3, 2008 at 09:05:32 PM by Terry Allen

My tractor is a 1955 model. Should the name plate colors be green back ground with yellow letters? Should teh grill ge yellow?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- Grill Name Plate

IP: 75.104.161.115 Posted on June 4, 2008 at 05:51:31 AM by Larry Harsin

It should be all green. The letters and everything. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 Gas RC- Grill Name Plate

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on June 4, 2008 at 09:19:27 AM by Terry Allen

Thanks; however, I am really confused. Every picture I have seen has the letters painted yellow.

Re(3): Super 77 Gas RC- Grill Name Plate

IP: 75.104.182.215 Posted on June 16, 2008 at 10:06:08 PM by Larry Harsin

You can paint then any color you like, but on the Supers, the whole strip was green, letters and all. The grills were painted yellow. Larry


Oliver Hart Parr 70

IP: 76.2.75.115 Posted on June 3, 2008 at 07:37:39 PM by Bruce

I have recently purchased an 1938 Oliver Hart Parr 70 row crop no 222288. I was wondering if this tractor is rare and are parts available? Is the engine a Continental or Hart-Parr. Also the fenders are like a clamshell with about 3 inch's of flat on top.

Re(1): Oliver Hart Parr 70

IP: 75.104.161.115 Posted on June 4, 2008 at 05:59:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor is not rare. The supply of parts is good - there are a lot of used parts. Some of the new engine parts are scarce and high priced. Good fenders are hard to find. The rest of the sheet metal is pretty much available. If you can't find good used side panels, you can get reproductions from Richard Lynch 937-456-6686. Korves Bros, has lights and light parts. 618-939-6681. If the fenders you have are nice, you are lucky. Those are the early style fenders and they are hard to find. The engine is a Continental. Larry


Perkins 354 vs 372

IP: 98.223.157.11 Posted on June 1, 2008 at 05:37:28 PM by Noel Putman

Larry, I have a line on a Perkins 372 engine. Will that bolt up to my oliver 1850D in place of my worn out 354 perkins?

Re(1): Perkins 354 vs 372

IP: 75.104.183.148 Posted on June 1, 2008 at 08:29:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if it will or not. Call tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and see what he says. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Perkins 354 vs 372

IP: 74.33.151.89 Posted on June 6, 2008 at 09:09:58 AM by Matt Abbas

I have known of a couple of guys that have replaced the 372 with a 354 in Massey combines and have seen red 354's in 1850 Olivers from massey combines so I would say yes. I think they may be the same block. I will caution you though because I have never heard much good about the 372 but if you already have it and it runs good, why not.


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