1655 brakes

IP: 204.14.61.13 Posted on June 30, 2009 at 01:12:25 PM by Bernard Clement

The brakes on my Oliver 1655 stick often. I take them apart and clean the three ball separators and they work great for a few days then stick again. I have tried never-sieze but no luck. Do you know a solution?? thanks.

Re(1): 1655 brakes

IP: 75.104.190.81 Posted on July 1, 2009 at 09:18:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Are your discs worn down enough that they need to be replaced? If they are worn down, I would put in new friction discs and see if that helps. Also, I would put some of that Never Sieze on the bull pinion splines and make sure those discs can slide freely on the splines. Larry

1550 engine swap

IP: 71.30.24.235 Posted on June 30, 2009 at 04:53:41 AM by Jim Harris

I will be changing out the engine in my 1550 diesel with a 770 engine. Will the injector pump off of the 1550 engine work on the 770 and also the injectors or will I have to get a pump and injectors from a 770. Also will the clutch and flywheel from the 1550 work on the 770 engine. thanks jim

Re(1): 1550 engine swap

IP: 4.249.102.168 Posted on June 30, 2009 at 11:09:39 AM by Larry from MD

To put the 1550 pump on you will have to change the front timeing cover and the plate under it. All the parts will fit. There is usually one drilling missing on the head where the hydro power hose is connected.

removal of lifters and camshaft

IP: 66.51.181.200 Posted on June 29, 2009 at 08:40:57 PM by Roland Gregory

Would like to know how to remove the lifters and camshaft on a continental six cyclinder. Tractor repair manual says to support lifters while removing camshaft how do you suport them? I have a model #52083-Z 12 & ser# 270020 hope these #s help with info also would like to now age of tractor and is it a super 77 or just a 77 oliver. hope to hear from you soon she in pieces in granddads shed !! thanks Roland

Re(1): removal of lifters and camshaft

IP: 75.104.161.2 Posted on June 29, 2009 at 09:42:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the engine out of the tractor and turn it so that it is upside down or on it's side, so the lifters will stay back away from the cam. Then, remove the cam. Your tractor is an Oliver 77 Standard built in 1949. Larry

oliver 1850

IP: 137.146.203.147 Posted on June 29, 2009 at 07:36:57 AM by scott manson

larry i am pulling motor an t/a all at the same time to remove pump shaft do i have to remove rear pto houseing an pull the shaft out the rear. thanks scott

Re(1): oliver 1850

IP: 4.249.102.32 Posted on June 29, 2009 at 10:32:36 AM by Larry from MD

No the shaft comes out the upper hole in the rear. Pry out the tin piece remove the stub shaft and o ring then the snap ring and long shaft.

354 clutch

IP: 97.112.100.170 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 08:42:32 PM by scott

Im installing a perkins 354 into my 1800 and Im not sure the book says I need spacers between the flywheel and pressure plate but it dosnt look like I need them do I ?

Re(1): 354 clutch

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on June 23, 2009 at 06:10:41 AM by Larry Harsin

You may not. There are 2 different flywheels used on these tractors. If your flywheel is flat, you may need the spacers. If it isn't you probably won't. Larry

HYD PUMP

IP: 69.92.5.162 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 08:36:22 PM by MIKE

WHERE IS THE HYDRAULIC PUMP LOCATED ON THE OLIVER 88? CAN IT BE REMOVED AND WILL THE TRACTOR FUNCTION NORMALLY. THIS TRACTOR IS ONLY USED FOR PULLING -THANKS- MIKE- P/S PARTS PICTURES OF THE 88 DIESEL WILL BE SENT TO YOU SOON

Re(1): HYD PUMP

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on June 23, 2009 at 06:08:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic is directly below the casting that holds the gear shift lever. The tractor can be used without the pump. Larry

Oliver 1820 Diesel Injector Pump

IP: 216.249.66.85 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 07:33:16 AM by Ron Hardesty

I have a 1965 Oliver 1850 Diesel. I have noticed recently that when I first start the tractor up and let it idel that the CAV injector pump is spitting fuel out of a small hole in the center of what appears to be a wheel on the front sideof the pump. If I rev the engine up to work the tractor it quits but if I back it off and let it idel it will start again. It seems that it quits all togeather after about 15 or 20 minutes of running. Is this a developing proablem. If it is a proablem whatr is the diagnosis and the fix

Re(1): Oliver 1820 Diesel Injector Pump

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 08:17:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that part will have to be replaced, but call Central Fuel Injection and talk to Bill. 712-362-4200. Larry

1600 trans shift lever install

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on June 21, 2009 at 09:21:53 PM by Noel Putman

I had a new pump installed in my 1600 and received the cover back. Put it on the tractor but am having trouble with the gear shift lever and the silly switch that is under the shift lever. I have 4th gear and R1 only. Something in not lined up. Is there a procedure for how to install that switch and ?collar that is with it and the shift lever?

Re(1): 1600 trans shift lever install

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 06:12:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Look at the Service Manual and the Parts Manual and make sure you have everything lined up correctly. Larry

Re(2): 1600 trans shift lever install

IP: 4.249.108.99 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 10:08:11 AM by Larry from MD

You need all 3 shift rails to be lined up. You have droped the shifter into one rail with no exit to the center rail.

super 55-gear grinding

IP: 71.31.169.112 Posted on June 20, 2009 at 06:41:08 PM by Felix

I have a 1954 super 55 the clutch was replaced before I got it. When I start it and try to put it into gear it grinds and I have alot of trouble shifting, a good friend of mine checked the shift forks and he says they are okay? I need help

Re(1): super 55-gear grinding

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 06:09:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think your clutch is releasing properly. You'll have to recheck the installation of the clutch pressure plate and clutch disc. Larry

1850 3pt

IP: 216.46.211.101 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 09:59:49 AM by RR

Larry, I had the top off the rearend on my 1850 to do some repair on the idler gear and shaft that run the hydraulic pump. While I had it apart,I took the pump and 3 point cylinder/valve out and put new O-rings in there. When I put it back together,the 3pt lever would only move about an inch and the arms wouldn't go down. I took the smaller valve cover off and found that one of the linkages was flipped over. I took the snap rings off and corrected it. The friction disc for the lever is shot,so I suspect that is part of my problem,but I don't think that's entirely it. If I just push the lever ahead,the arms won't go down. I have to move it ahead slowly and let the arms go down as I'm moving the lever. It also seems to go down without a whole lot of travel on the lever. If I let go of the lever,it comes back and the arms come up. The only way to keep it down is to hold the lever ahead. I've adjusted the turnbuckle and I THINK I have that right. When I had that valve cover off,I noticed that the draft control rod was pushed up so far that the spring was bowed like a horseshoe. When I hooked on to the haybine the other day,with a 2 way cylinder plugged into the left outlets,I had to turn the 3 point bypass bolt out down by my right heel. With it in,the haybine wouldn't stay down. As soon as I'd let off the lever,it would cause the cylinder to creep back up quite quickly. Any suggestions? Hopefully that don't involve taking the top back off the rearend?

Re(1): 1850 3pt

IP: 75.104.169.190 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 10:30:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It is working o.k., but the friction disk on the lever needs to be replaced. That is the problem. To fix the friction disk, you will have to take the top lid off of the hydraulic unit. Then, take the lever assembly off of the unit and lay it on your bench and take it apart and put in a new friction disk. While you are doing it, you should put in new seals and O rings in there so it won't leak oil out around those levers. Larry

Re(2): 1850 3pt

IP: 216.46.211.155 Posted on June 18, 2009 at 07:17:57 AM by RR

Why is the remote creeping the cylinder up? This tractor isn't new to me,I've had it for a long time and it's never acted like this before. And when I say "creeping",I don't mean slowly. It'll have the haybine off the ground in 2-3 seconds. The 3pt on my 1550 and 1600 don't act like that either. I can push the lever ahead on those all at once and the arms will drop. I don't have to "feather" those dow

Re(3): 1850 3pt

IP: 4.249.102.188 Posted on June 18, 2009 at 10:51:46 AM by Larry from MD

The creep up of cylinders is usually because the 3 point is blocking the return flow of oil to the tank. The valve may be in a power position or someting is blocked. If you don't want to remove the hydrolic unit again you can use screwdrivers and pry out some clearance where the friction disc goes and stick in a piece of inner tube cut to fit. Put some glue on one side so it stays.

Super 55 won't start.

IP: 65.82.244.127 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 09:14:55 AM by Tom

After I changed the fuel filter on my Super 55 with Diesel engine I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Per the manual i cracked the fittings loose at the injectors and I am getting very little fuel at the fittings. Should it be a large amount at this point or just a trickle?

Re(1): Super 55 won't start.

IP: 4.249.102.44 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 04:50:36 PM by Larry from MD

You need to bleed out all the air before the pump.

Re(2): Super 55 won't start.

IP: 75.104.169.190 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 10:32:59 PM by Larry Harsin

It should be dripping fuel when you turn the engine over. You have an air lock some place. The book will tell you how to bleed the system. Larry

Re(3): Super 55 won't start.

IP: 75.200.84.142 Posted on June 20, 2009 at 05:11:50 AM by Tom

I cracked the fittings at the injectors and I am getting good flow on the back two cylinders but nothing from the first two. I loosened the fittings at the pump and no flow there either. Any advice or is the pump just done?

Re(4): Super 55 won't start.

IP: 75.104.182.161 Posted on June 22, 2009 at 06:00:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know for sure about your pump. We have been gone for a few days. Sorry for the delay in answering. Larry

Re(5): Super 55 won't start.

IP: 75.201.78.220 Posted on June 20, 2009 at 08:48:29 AM by Tom

Thank you for your help, I now have fuel flowing to all 4 injectors but the tractor still will not start. It runs off of starting fluid and the lever on the side of the pump (shutoff??) is fluctuating as tractor tries to run.

Re(6): Super 55 won't start.

IP: 75.201.138.130 Posted on June 20, 2009 at 03:48:31 PM by Tom

Lesson learned, don't let mother in law buy gas meaning gasoline for diesel tractor.

Servo Valve

IP: 65.170.214.78 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 08:30:22 AM by Lynn

I posted the message about the stuck spools. We determined the two metals must have somewhat welded themselves together. (I guess this is correct?) I was wondering if anyone knows where I could find a new valve and maybe an idea of the cost. This is a 1950T. I was also wondering if a servo valve from an 1800 would work?

Re(1): Servo Valve

IP: 75.104.169.190 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 10:37:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I think a servo valve from an 1800 will work. I have a new old stock valve if you need it, but if you have one from an 1800 it will work. Larry

oliver 70 water pump

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 06:48:35 PM by paul

I'm trying to find parts to rebuild my water pump. do you know who might have them or where i can find a rebuild?

Re(1): oliver 70 water pump

IP: 75.104.161.79 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 09:01:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276, for a rebuilt pump. Larry

Re(2): oliver 70 water pump

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 04:40:52 AM by Don

Larry how close would a 60 water pump be to a 70? Jerry at agparts first has them.

Re(3): oliver 70 water pump

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 09:00:09 AM by paul

thanks larry, the best price i have found is at R C Reman. i think i could fix it much cheaper if the parts were available. i will try your source.

Re(4): oliver 70 water pump

IP: 75.104.169.190 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 10:35:46 PM by Larry Harsin

A 60 pump is totally different and won't work. As I said, check with Valu-Bilt. Larry

Re(5): oliver 70 water pump

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on June 19, 2009 at 11:48:29 PM by paul

i was able to get a seal kit from montes equipement co. montes@flash.net i didnt see one on valu builts site but i didnt call as i already ordered the seal kit and have done some machine work. montes seems to specialize in continental parts. thank you for the help.

2 spd conversion

IP: 74.44.98.151 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 06:35:58 PM by Scott

I have a 1975 1555 w/the hydra drive, have you or anybody else taken the 3 speed over/under system off a bigger tractor & converted a hydra drive to a 3 speed? Is there something i should be aware of?

Re(1): 2 spd conversion

IP: 75.104.161.79 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 08:59:31 PM by Larry Harsin

I haven't done this. The hard thing is going to be to find a good unit. The hydra power unit that you get will be from a 1550, a 1555, a 1650 or a 1655 as that is the ones that will fit. Larry

Re(2): 2 spd conversion

IP: 4.249.102.44 Posted on June 17, 2009 at 04:43:52 PM by Larry from MD

The tractors above 70 hp have larger input shafts so they will NOT fit. A 3 speed from a 2-70 would fit allso.

1800B

IP: 66.226.47.215 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 06:12:04 PM by DAVID CARTER

1800 LIFT AND POWER STEERING WILL NOT WORK AT IDLE, REMOTE PRESSURE IS ABOUT 500 PSI IDLE IT UP 1200 RPM AND EVERYTHIG WORKS WITH REMOTE PRESSURE AT 1500 PSI. IS THIS NORMAL OR IS MY PUMP SHOT?

Re(1): 1800B

IP: 75.104.161.79 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 08:57:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Your pump is probably getting a bit weak, but you probably won't gain a lot by putting a pump into it yet. This is a common complaint about losing hydraulic at low speeds. When you idle it up, it is about right. Larry

engine swap 1550 diesel

IP: 75.91.67.13 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 04:34:56 AM by jim

will 880 or 770 engine fit in the 1550 and if so will the 1550 engine parts [starter, bell housing, water pump etc] fit the 880 or 770 engine thanks jim

Re(1): engine swap 1550 diesel

IP: 75.104.161.79 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 06:23:56 AM by Larry Harsin

The 770 engine is the same family as the 1550 engine and it will work. The interchangeability is good. But, it isn't so good with the 880. I have a 1550 gas engine, complete and ready to install, if you are interested in it, email me or call me. Larry

SUPER 88 "D"

IP: 69.92.5.162 Posted on June 15, 2009 at 08:22:29 PM by MIKE

WHERE IS A GOOD PLACE TO POST AND SELL THE HEAD AND ALL THE FUEL INJECTION PARTS OFF MY 1953 SUPER 88 "D" I PLAN ON USING THE BLOCK WITH NEW PISTONS AND LINERS AS A GAS MOTOR. WHAT ARE THE LARGEST PISTONS I CAN GET AND WHAT WILL THE "ci" BE WITH A STOCK CRANK -----M

Re(1): SUPER 88

IP: 75.104.161.79 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 06:19:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I would recommend the M&W 3 7/8 inch piston, available from Korves Bros. Oliver. This will make your engine a 283 cubic inch. Korves: 618-939-6681 Website: www.korvesoliver.com If you would email me your location and a description and condition of the parts you want to sell, I might be interested in them. harsinoliver@ilechsi.com Larry

Stuck spools.

IP: 65.170.214.78 Posted on June 15, 2009 at 05:42:12 PM by Lynn

Hi, I added a wrong fluid (maybe a herbicide) to the hydraulic system on my 1950T. It gummed everything up inside the hydra-electric unit and the servo valve. It turned to a very thick white paste. We disassembled most of the parts in the hydraulic system under the seat. I can't remove the flow control spool and the snap spool from the servo valve. We had an engine shop soak it in a hot bath of oil, but this did not loosen them at all. Do you have any suggestions? I didn't remove any of the steering units yet. I'm hoping the material didn't reach them. Thanks for any help you can give me. Lynn

Re(1): Stuck spools.

IP: 75.104.161.79 Posted on June 16, 2009 at 06:15:00 AM by Larry Harsin

That is one of the worst things that can happen - the wrong stuff in and then it turns thick or solid. If you know what you put in there, I would call the manufacturer's technical department and see if they had a suggestion as to what would dissolve it. Larry

Hydra-power

IP: 69.26.13.38 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 09:52:45 PM by Bill Wagner

I have a 1966 1650 diesel with hydra-power drive. The hydra power works fine when I first run the tractor, but after it is completely warmed up and I pull the hydra power knob (for more power or to slow down) it is like putting it in neutral or depressing the clutch. If I push it back in everything is fine, so mostly I don't use the low range. Any ideas? The oil is up to full.

Re(1): Hydra-power

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 13, 2009 at 06:30:09 AM by Larry Harsin

The hydra-power drive sprag clutch is slipping. You will have to tear the tractor down and replace that sprag clutch. It won't hurt to use it in direct drive, you won't damage anything. Larry

1650 gas

IP: 165.139.19.36 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 09:15:13 AM by stan e

i bought this 1650 a year ago from a older gentleman who quit farming about 25 years ago this tractor sat idle inside. i had the carb cleaned by a mech. i re-coted the gas tank after re-installing everything i ran the engine and ran great then drove down the road going down a slight de-cline engine started acting like starved for gas but kept running then ok flat land started acting the same re-set needle valve made it worse it dies let it set for a couple of minutes start runs good then dies again this tractor is in really good mechanical shape and the previous owner never overloaded or railroaded his equipment. any ideas would be apppreciated thanks stan e.

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 70.187.30.74 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 07:53:23 PM by Larry K

Did you replace the fuel line? The old rubber lines can delaminate on the inside and cause problems.

Re(2): 1650 gas

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 13, 2009 at 06:26:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like there is a fuel problem. Somehow or another, it is not getting enough fuel. Make sure you are getting enough fuel into the carb. Larry

Re(3): 1650 gas

IP: 98.115.66.158 Posted on June 14, 2009 at 08:22:20 AM by Steve Weller

I have an Oliver 1650 pulls handles a New Holland 492 haybine like a champ, but I have been experiencing the same problem. I have replaced the fuel lines, rebuilt the carb, cleaned the tank, and finally called in an old Oliver tractor machanic. He suggested I give the old girl a complete tune up and replace the coil. He thought I had the orginal coil installed. I am hoping this is it. I will let you know.

Re(4): 1650 gas

IP: 98.115.66.158 Posted on June 15, 2009 at 12:27:56 PM by Steve Weller

It did the trick. I cant really mow a lot of hay today with the weather forcast but the old girl is running like new.

Re(5): 1650 gas

IP: 165.139.19.37 Posted on June 24, 2009 at 11:09:51 AM by stan e

thanks for the help re-adjusted carb cleaned tank and lines again runs great. will try tune up and coil if happens in the future

77 Diesel

IP: 74.205.199.160 Posted on June 11, 2009 at 07:40:44 AM by Eric Allen

A couple years ago, the diaphram pump went out and I was getting diesel in the oil. I had a mechanic change it out to a electric pump and change the oil. The tractor has been in storage for a while and only run a dozen hours since. I checked the oil last night and saw it was way over full. It does not foam, but I dont know if diesel is in it or not. Is there any other way for it to get into the crankcase or did my mechanic just overfill it?

Re(1): 77 Diesel

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 05:55:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd drain it out and start over. Fuel can get in there through the injection pump also. Larry

Re(2): 77 Diesel

IP: 4.249.102.253 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 06:19:55 AM by Larry from MD

You could drain out the oil and turn on your fuel pump and see if fuel comes pouring out. That way you would know its the injector pump thats leaking. There is an oring that goes bad in there it seals a small screen/plug. It can be replaced without removeing the pump.

1655 transmission input shaft

IP: 64.136.26.231 Posted on June 11, 2009 at 06:29:27 AM by Robert Rogers

I recently put in a new clutch kit in my 1655. While motor and hydra unit were out, I replaced both sprockets that couple together but noticed major wear on the transmission input shaft. I was told to replace this shaft would be a big job because you have to undo shaft from inside the transmission. 2 "cheap fixes" were suggested. 1 - slice off part of old sprocket and weld on new sprocket so that you could reach back into some good splines (there are 3/4" of good splines behind where sprocket normally sits). 2 - weld sprocket on shaft where it normally sits. What do you recommend

Re(1): 1655 transmission input shaft

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 05:53:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I would not weld. That will be a disaster! It is a big job, but I would replace the shaft. Larry

Re(1): 1655 transmission input shaft

IP: 67.244.158.232 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 08:19:30 AM by Cas

I tried that welding idea one time. It seemed to cause a lot harmonic vibration I think. The coupler chain got extremely hot and the cotter pins came out. Cut off the extension and about 2500 hours later it is still going fine

880 Power Booster

IP: 208.54.14.18 Posted on June 10, 2009 at 11:36:42 AM by Don

I have a 880 with power booster. Is there a way to remove the power booster and go direct to the transmission? My original thought was to drill through the plates on the booster clutch and bolt it direct. I'll still need to contend with the input shaft every time I want to change the clutch. Any ideas?

Re(1): 880 Power Booster

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 10, 2009 at 06:38:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the power booster entirely and put a different input shaft in the transmission. then I would put in the correct clutch shaft for a regular transmission. In other words, set it up the way it was intended without the power booster. The manual should show the parts that you will need. Larry

Re(2): 880 Power Booster

IP: 208.54.14.93 Posted on June 10, 2009 at 09:42:30 PM by Don

My original intent was to do just what you suggested. If I pull off the Power Booster, will there be a cover plate and seal that needs to be placed over the hole for the input shaft? Does your company have the parts that I would need for this?

Re(3): 880 Power Booster

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 11, 2009 at 06:05:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Whether we have them depends on the serial number of your tractor. Email the serial number to us: harsinoliver@ilechsi.com We need to know if your tractor is a spur gear tractor. Larry

550 black soot flakes

IP: 70.187.30.74 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 09:17:13 PM by Larry K

My 550 (recent overhaul, valve job, and rebuilt carb)blows small flakes of black soot the spot the hood. What can cause this? What is the cure?

Re(1): 550 black soot flakes

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 10, 2009 at 06:21:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The carb is probably a little rich. The fuel is probably adjusted a little rich. It probably just needs to work a little bit. Do something where the engine has to work a little harder and see if that fixes it. Larry

Super 55 Leaking Gear Oil

IP: 165.138.147.155 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 12:47:11 PM by Jeff

My Super 55 is leaking gear oil from an inspection plate in the center of the tractor under the clutch and brake pedals. I understand that area should not have any fluids. Where would the leak come from? Can you tell me how to do a Z split of the tractor? Thanks..

Re(1): Super 55 Leaking Gear Oil

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 06:19:40 PM by Larry Harsin

The Z Split starts at the bottom at the back of the engine and goes up to that seam that runs horizontally and then up to the top at the back. This allows you to split the tractor in 2, easily. The only thing you have to disconnect is the light wire. You'll have to disconnect the radius rods where they attach to the front axle. I usually put 2 jack stands beneath the 2 frame rails on the side of the engine. Then, use a floor jack to support the rear part and roll it away from the engine. You'll have to go in and reseal the front of the transmission where the PTO clutch is and where the input shaft goes into the transmission. You really should get a Shop Manual to do this. You can get it from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. The leak is probably coming from where the PTO is hooked on to the front of the transmission. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Leaking Gear Oil

IP: 165.138.147.155 Posted on June 10, 2009 at 06:24:13 AM by Jeff

Thanks Larry, I have the manuals but the Z Split had me confused. Many thanks for this wonderful site and help. I'm headed to the garage. God bless you and your family.

770G

IP: 24.236.152.149 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 12:07:52 PM by steve tower

Hi Just popped the head on my 770, it appears the valve seats in the two center cylinders have disappeared, Are they replaceable ? I have not been able to find any source, what are my options? Other than that, cylinders, valves seem to be in excellent condition,I've used this tractor almost daily for years..........

Re(1): 770G

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 06:12:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the head to an automotive machine shop and they will recondition it. The seats are gone and they will install them and grind them and get it all back in shape. Larry

S55 hydraulic cover plug

IP: 207.194.36.232 Posted on June 8, 2009 at 11:15:26 PM by Jake

Larry there is a 3/8" pipe plug in the top & front of my super 55 hydraulic cover. Its near the drain pipe cover in front of the seat. Inside that plug is another pipe plug behind some passages. Whats that all about and whats that for.

Re(1): S55 hydraulic cover plug

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 00:08:47 AM by Larry Harsin

The first pipe plug is to pump the oil out of your tractor. Remove the plug and hold a container up there with the tractor running and it will pump the oil out. The second plug is removed when you install a remote control valve. Larr

Re(2): S55 hydraulic cover plug

IP: 198.162.133.102 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 10:28:17 AM by Jake

So to make a remote control valve work this smaller plug has to be 100% removed? Then replace the outer one, correct?

Re(3): S55 hydraulic cover plug

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 06:08:42 PM by Larry Harsin

No, that isn't right. I'm wondering if we are talking about the same place. The place I am talking about is on the right side of the unit (on that flat spot), below the seat. You really should get an Operator's Manual and a Shop Manual for your tractor. You can get them from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Today I am thinking you are talking about the oil channel that goes back to the valving from the pump. Those pipe plugs are there and I'm not sure what the use for them is. If you wish, you can call me 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(4): S55 hydraulic cover plug

IP: 198.162.133.102 Posted on June 12, 2009 at 08:24:19 AM by Jake

I have all of the manuals. This part and area doesnt seem to be mentioned. The plugs I mean are on page 10-2L of the manual Charles City master shop manual, and in the image, they are above and to the left of the word 'Housing'. I will give you a shout this weekend Larry, thank you!

Mist Green 880

IP: 69.66.221.70 Posted on June 8, 2009 at 01:18:22 PM by Lisle Dunham "Lyle"

I have a Mist Green 880 Oliver narrow front with a Koyker K2 loader, no power booster. The power steering is out, i.e. won't power turn to the left, but you can turn it using muscle, and the front end is sloppy and wanders approx. 30 degree free (trick to drive it), when you raise the front and move the front wheels. The drive clutch just went out too. The engine rear main seal leaks some. The engine runs well and has power, some blue smoke when backing off on the throttle. I bought it at a farm sale at few years ago. The air cleaner hose had a small hole in it, so the engine could be dusted.

My questions are: Is there any more value to a mist green version Oliver 880? I understand there were only a couple hundred made. Given all of the issues, would it be worth restoring? What would the value be as is? What could the restored value be?

I have a wide front 1958 880 in excellent shape so I could use the mist green one for parts. I have kind of retired the tractor and have other Olivers that have been in the family for years, trying to figure out what to do with this "out of commission tractor" that was not part of our farm family heritage. I work full time off the farm, so my mechanical skills are spread thin. Thanks for your insights. Lisle "Lyle"

Re(1): Mist Green 880

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 8, 2009 at 11:58:19 PM by Larry Harsin

There seems to be a bit more value to the mist green 880's than the regular ones. I would restore it. I would say it is probably worth $1000, You didn't say what the tires were like, they are a big item. Restored value? I'd say $5500 to $7000. Larry

1850 narrow front

IP: 207.119.121.76 Posted on June 6, 2009 at 09:35:22 PM by Bruce

Did some Oliver 1850s have a narrow front end from the factory? Is there any differeence between a 1650 narrow front end and an 1850s? I would like to put my 1850 on a Oliver corn picker.Do you have a narrow front with rims?

Re(1): 1850 narrow front

IP: 75.104.188.196 Posted on June 7, 2009 at 11:07:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they did. The 1650 narrow front is wider. Yes. I have a narrow front for an 1850. I'm not sure if I have the rims. Give me a call. Meanwhile I will check. 712-362-2966 Larry

hp

IP: 98.26.147.7 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 06:52:57 PM by oliver super 88

Hi again I was wondering how much drawbar hp does the s88 diesel and the s77 diesel have?

Re(1): hp

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 07:52:50 PM by Larry Harsin

The S77 has 37 - 38 hp on the drawbar. The S88 has 50 hp on the drawbar. Larry

1555 - More Power

IP: 70.169.108.157 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 05:50:18 PM by Robert

I have a 1555, is there a bigger motor that could be put in easily to gain more power? How much Horse power can that tractor handle

Re(1): 1555 - More Power

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 07:51:11 PM by Larry Harsin

If I had a 1555 that I wanted more power out of, I would put 3 3/4 pistons in it. Contact Korves Bros. and see what they say. 618-939-6681. Larry

1755 Diesel

IP: 76.1.6.156 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 04:26:59 PM by Logan

My 1755 has an issue. It starts up and runs great but then at a random time it will cut cylinders out and blow excessive white smoke. Then if you shut it down, you can start it right back up and it will run like a dream. Then it will do it again. Sometimes it runs for 5 minutes, other times 25. I was wondering if you had any idea what might be going on. Thanks

Re(1): 1755 Diesel

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 07:49:12 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a problem with not enough fuel getting to the injection pump. Or, it could be not getting enough oil on the valves. Pull the valve cover and make sure the rocker arms are getting enough oil. Larry

Super 88 w/ GM straight 6

IP: 24.177.128.131 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 10:06:51 AM by Schimko

I recently bought a 1955 Super 88 with a 250 c.i GM inline 6 in it. The motor spins at right around 4000 rpms or more. So that means that the tractor does right around 30mph. I want to make sure that my rear end gears stay cool and lubed. Do you think i should put in some lighter oil in the back or maybe heavier? What weight do you think would be the best? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Super 88 w/ GM straight 6

IP: 4.249.108.174 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 10:25:35 AM by Larry from MD

You should add a govenor those engines only turned 2100 going 60 in pikups. They do make belt drive ones for combines that will work.

Re(2): Super 88 w/ GM straight 6

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 07:46:31 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use 80-90 transmission lube. That should be adequate. Larry

770 cracked sleeves

IP: 205.188.116.207 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 06:39:54 AM by Tom

Hello, I have a 770 oliver that I put a 3.75 piston sleeve kit in and after a short time several sleeve cracked 1/4 inch from top. Tried again with 3.625 and it blowing water out the radiator again. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Re(1): 770 cracked sleeves

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 07:43:26 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the sleeve height above the deck of the block is not correct. Also, the proper head gasket has to be used and the proper tightening sequence on the head bolts and the proper torque is quite important. The sleeve protrusion is .001 - .004. You may want to have a machinist check the top of the block and see if it is straight. It may be out of specs. Also, have the head checked. Larry

1855 Fuel System

IP: 208.69.166.119 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 08:59:31 PM by Ross Rieckers

Hello, I have an 1855 with the square, glass style of fuel filter. It seems that the fuel does not always want to run into the filter as fast as the tractor uses it and the tractor will die. Also, I noticed in the shop book that some of the 17/18/1955's had a low pressure fuel pump driven by the cam and mine does not. Was this pump only for the fender fuel tanks? If so, what can I do to make my fuel run correctly. I have had the fuel system apart and cleaned it, fresh fuel and blown out the lines and still this problem occurs. When I put a new filter on it fills up quite easily with the bleed plug out but after running it does not. What should I do? Is this a common problem?

Re(1): 1855 Fuel System

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 06:13:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm wondering if the transfer pump on the back of the injection pump might be weak. You could buy a small electric fuel pump from NAPA and try that. Larry

Re(2): 1855 Fuel System

IP: 4.249.108.174 Posted on June 3, 2009 at 10:59:17 AM by Larry from MD

I would check the tank again if you allready have. It sounds like its not running out fast enough.

Re(3): 1855 Fuel System

IP: 208.69.166.119 Posted on June 7, 2009 at 08:49:52 PM by Ross Rieckers

Thanks! I ended up having the pump rebuilt as the problem was the internal govenor. The injection shop said this will cause symptoms similar to a weak pump.

Re(4): 1855 Fuel System

IP: 208.69.166.119 Posted on June 14, 2009 at 09:08:37 PM by Ross Rieckers

Today I discovered the problem. I believe the fuel tank cap is incorrect. On tractors without the fender fuel tanks the main tank cap is vented, correct? Mine is the non-vented and it is creating an airlock when the rubber seal expands in the sun. I went to put fuel in it and it let out a "whoosh" as I broke the seal. Then fuel starts flowing freely. Are the vented caps for this tractor the same as on all the others 77's, 1650's, etc.?

Have a oliver want to know model #

IP: 75.100.181.185 Posted on June 1, 2009 at 09:31:01 PM by Dane Melin

We have a old Oliver that my grand father had. we started it last night. it runs great for not running in 20 years we want to know what it is and how old. i have this info Model ID # 18-0041 Ser# 10136-801 hope you can help me i think we will want to restore it

Re(1): Have a oliver want to know model #

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 06:01:36 AM by Larry Harsin

We need more info. Is it a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. Is it a Utility type (like a little Ford)? Could you email a picture of it to us? Our email address is at the top of the page. Larry

Re(2): Have a oliver want to know model #

IP: 209.50.18.63 Posted on June 9, 2009 at 11:42:37 PM by B A Star

Your tractor is a Super 88 built early in 1955.

engine running rough

IP: 71.28.205.126 Posted on June 1, 2009 at 07:06:48 PM by chris

my 1850 oliver is smoking terrible we bought the motor out of a combine and have just got it to start a lil bit ago but we have let it run hopefully let it clear itself out but to no avail, we unhooked the turbo from the motor to make sure that we didnt have a turbo problem but we still have a bad smoke problem and a lot of black wet soot,the smoke is so bad u cant hardly sit on the tractor, could we have an injector problem, or a injector pump problem ? any help would be appreciate.

Re(1): engine running rough

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 05:54:41 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have more smoke with the turbo disconnected. You need to hook up the turbo before you do anything. You aren't giving the engine enough air. Without the turbo, the engine isn't breathing right. The best thing to do is put that turbo on and put the tractor to work. It might clear itself out. Then, you can do your adjustments. Larry

Re(2): engine running rough

IP: 4.249.102.30 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 06:55:08 PM by Larry from MD

Have you checked for a stuck open valve. If the combine sat for a while its common. Unburned fuel in the exhaust will mix with the soot and make an oily mess.

1600 utility

IP: 4.225.145.97 Posted on June 1, 2009 at 00:02:44 AM by Jason

We are debating on buying an oliver 1600 gas utility. I know there were only a few hundred made and I was basically wondering what the main differences are between a 1600 utility and a standard model.

Re(1): 1600 utility

IP: 75.104.190.76 Posted on June 1, 2009 at 05:45:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think they built a 1600 Standard. However, the 1600 Utility will have adjustable wheel width tread, where the Standards are more of a fixed setting. Larry

Re(2): 1600 utility

IP: 205.218.69.193 Posted on June 1, 2009 at 07:58:58 PM by Jason

I also understand that the rear end is geared higher. If this is right, what is the ratio, and what might a top speed be?

Re(3): 1600 utility

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 05:50:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know the ratio, but it will run approx. 20 mph on the road. Larry

Re(4): 1600 utility

IP: 205.218.69.84 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 08:27:25 PM by jason

I also have one more question. will the head off of a super 99 (gas) fit on a row crop 88(gas)?

Re(5): 1600 utility

IP: 75.104.188.196 Posted on June 6, 2009 at 06:22:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it would bolt on, but I have never done it. I don't know how it would work, but I think the bolt patterns are identical. Larry

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