"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - June, 2011 Archives


Hart Parr

IP: 69.214.9.9 Posted on June 30, 2011 at 05:33:51 PM by Steve

my 1929 12 24 won't stay running, unless I choke it with my hand. The carb is clean and quite simple with a cork float. Any thoughts?

Re(1): Hart Parr

IP: 75.104.169.243 Posted on July 1, 2011 at 07:11:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any experience with that model. Call Don Hoover 712-838-4853. He has a lot of experience with Hart Parrs. Larry


1555 overheats, No Power

IP: 74.103.153.21 Posted on June 29, 2011 at 07:55:37 PM by Steve Moyer

Larry- Have 1555 been running good. Recently started to over heat and had no power. Radiator was recored 2 years ago with new Thermostat. Question - Someone told me there were some problems with the original Delco Remy vaccum advanced Distributors. They have been changing them out. Could running that engine in a retarded degree cause overheating ? What are they recommending to replace that Dist.? Or do we need to look somewhere other than timing ?

Re(1): 1555 overheats, No Power

IP: 75.104.169.137 Posted on June 29, 2011 at 08:11:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it sure could. If you run that engine with the timing retarded, it will cause the engine to overheat. If your vacuum advance is not working, simply set the timing at 22 degrees with the engine at full throttle and see if that helps. Otherwise, you are going to have to install a Mallory distributor, which does not have a vacuum advance either. Larry

Re(2): 1555 overheats, No Power

IP: 74.103.165.222 Posted on July 4, 2011 at 06:55:13 AM by Steve Moyer

If we find the distributor is the problem do you have a reliable source for Mallory Distributors ?

Re(3): 1555 overheats, No Power

IP: 75.104.182.35 Posted on July 8, 2011 at 07:43:54 AM by Larry Harsin

A good place to get a Mallory Distributor is O'Brien County Impl. in Sheldon IA 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First in Wooster OH 866-264-9720. Larry


1755 engine sluggish

IP: 74.103.153.21 Posted on June 29, 2011 at 07:49:41 PM by Steve Moyer

Larry - have 1755 - S/N 231-510-676. Engine is slow to accelerate. Best way to describe is that when throttle is maxed- RPM slowly climbs and does not even reach PTO speed. What has been done. Removed Air Cleaner / Muffler to remove any obstructions. No difference. Removed Return line to tank. There is fuel coming through to tank. Filters - Primary and Secondary have been changed. All of this made no difference to RPM. Wondering if fuel pump could be bad? - lever action fuel pump by filters? What would be the symptoms of that. Or could it be the Injection pump? Would like to know what you think. Thanks

Re(1): 1755 engine sluggish

IP: 75.104.169.137 Posted on June 29, 2011 at 08:08:18 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is make sure the lift pump is working properly. If that checks out, you are probably going to have to have the injection pump worked over. If you don't have a place to work on it, call Central Fuel Injection and talk to them. 712-362-4200. Larry

Re(2): 1755 engine sluggish

IP: 74.103.165.222 Posted on July 4, 2011 at 06:58:06 AM by Steve Moyer

We checked the lift pump as you suggested and in the process found a defect in the shut off cable, which was not allowing the shutoff lever to return fully on the injection pump and in effect was starving the pump for fuel. Thanks for your input.


550 pto

IP: 184.156.30.253 Posted on June 28, 2011 at 08:53:04 PM by michael cobb

checked out your archives I found lots of info. My pto clutch spider is broke besides the normal danger of constantly engaged pto can i tighten the nut so i can use the pto without causeing more damage. I have to split the tractor later to fix shifting problems. just have first & reverse lowrange. thanks your archives are a great teacher.

Re(1): 550 pto

IP: 75.104.169.137 Posted on June 29, 2011 at 07:06:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it would be o.k. You have to use your own judgement. It's pretty hard to use a PTO without a PTO clutch. Larry

Re(2): 550 pto

IP: 75.120.229.127 Posted on June 29, 2011 at 09:06:03 AM by michael cobb

thanks confirmed what i was thinking


1650 smokes

IP: 76.3.40.17 Posted on June 27, 2011 at 12:34:24 PM by Justin Gravitt

I have a 1650 diesel that smokes a white/dark gray smoke under moderate throttle, smoke seems blue at idle, but it does not seem to have much blow by out of the puke tube. It is fairly hard to start so I thought I would crack the lines on the energy cells, all have fuel driping from them but seems to still idle rough. Could you tell me your method of bleeding the lines, and how will I know if the nozzles are clogged.

Re(1): 1650 smokes

IP: 75.104.182.30 Posted on June 28, 2011 at 06:52:01 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds to me like you are doing the bleeding properly. You could pull the caps off of the energy cells and see if they are plugged with carbon. If they are o.k., I would remove the injectors and have them checked. It is not unusual for this particular engine to act like this. Make sure the thermostat is working properly. If everything you do, as above, does not improve the way the tractor works, you may have just a tired engine. Larry


1855 injection pump

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on June 26, 2011 at 09:07:59 AM by dan

Looks like the plastic ring is shot in my 1855's inj pump. It was running then lost power. Now it will only run a few minutes at a time. I changed the filters and tested for flow att he lift pump. Pulled the timing cover off and there are the little bits of plastic in there. I was thinking of tackling this myself or, should I send to an pump shop? Is there anybody that you would recommend I can send it to if I go that route?

Re(1): 1855 injection pump

IP: 75.104.169.144 Posted on June 27, 2011 at 06:36:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You should send it to a pump shop. Our local pump shop is very good. Central Fuel Injection. 800-548-9464. Larry


550 Pressure Plate adjustment

IP: 50.90.101.76 Posted on June 25, 2011 at 11:37:58 AM by Jeff

Had tractor apart and put in new clutch. The clutch didn't release fully. I split it and check finger height on the pressure plate. Of the three, none the same. I attempted to set it following the book, but I made no improvement. Before I split again and try I want to know at which point on the finger should I measure to and how should I have the plate? I had mine face down, shim stock underneath and I measured from the tip to the top of the stock. Should I have done this face up?

Re(1): 550 Pressure Plate adjustment

IP: 75.104.168.20 Posted on June 26, 2011 at 06:56:43 AM by Larry Harsin

One thing that I have found is when you have the clutch assembly bolted up to the flywheel, check to be sure that there is a bit of room between the PTO drive hub on the pressure plate and the clutch disk hub. I have had to grind some of the pressure plate hub away so that the clutch disk can back away from the fly wheel. Larry


2255

IP: 81.241.154.107 Posted on June 25, 2011 at 03:22:22 AM by Claude D'hont

can you tell me if the 2255 CAT was ever build original with turbo aspiration? Kind regards, Claude

Re(1): 2255

IP: 75.104.168.218 Posted on June 25, 2011 at 08:21:26 AM by Larry Harsin

No 2255 was ever built with a turbo, at the factory. Possibly someone added one later. Larry


Super 55 PTO clutch

IP: 99.196.160.56 Posted on June 23, 2011 at 08:45:36 PM by David Westbrook

I have the PTO clutch on my Super 55 apart and need to replace the seal on the spider where it comes out of the transmission. My manual says to use a special spanner wrench and gives a part number for it. Do you know of any place that might have one or something else that would work to get it apart? Thanks for your help!

Re(1): Super 55 PTO clutch

IP: 75.104.169.32 Posted on June 24, 2011 at 00:19:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if you can buy one anymore. You will probably have to make one using a piece of pipe and weld on some pieces. I use an air chisel and a punch. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 PTO clutch

IP: 50.90.101.76 Posted on June 25, 2011 at 11:29:47 AM by Rexalot

I made one myself. I think the nut is 2 inches across the face if I remember right. I bought a "socket" wrench that is used to remove the hub on a Chevy 4X4, except the socket extends in rather than out and blocks its use "as is". I just cut the center out, rewelded in back on and I had my tool. Cost $22.00.


oliver 1365

IP: 69.54.134.14 Posted on June 23, 2011 at 08:35:33 AM by gail

leaking oil at left side of engine at rear appears right at the oil galley line at vertical line where engine bolts to clutch housing...maybe a softplug on rear of engine?...was sitting for 10 years...runs great otherwise ...is a dsl fiat engine

Re(1): oliver 1365

IP: 75.104.169.32 Posted on June 24, 2011 at 00:16:37 AM by Larry Harsin

That could very well be the problem. I am not that familiar with that engine. There weren't many sold around here. Talk to Rick at Rick's Ag Parts 330-466-2164. They have parts for the Fiats. Larry


770 Carb Rebuild

IP: 163.205.76.85 Posted on June 21, 2011 at 08:24:02 AM by Phil

Just rebuilt my Oliver 770 Gas Carburetor.Could you please tell me what the needle valves need to be set at ?

Re(1): 770 Carb Rebuild

IP: 75.104.169.97 Posted on June 21, 2011 at 09:15:21 PM by Larry Harsin

One and a half on the load and three fourths on the idle. Larry


1800B improvements

IP: 173.210.167.184 Posted on June 21, 2011 at 01:45:11 AM by Lee Samuelson

1. will an over/under from a 1755 fit our 1800B? (I think so...) 2.can i use/modify the 2-speed from the 1755 to work in the 1800? 3. where can I find the lube circuit used with the accessory front-mounted transmission lube pump

Re(1): 1800B improvements

IP: 75.104.183.128 Posted on June 21, 2011 at 07:13:16 AM by Larry Harsin

1. I think that will work. 2. That would probably work. 3. I have the instruction pages (14) about installing it etc, but it doesn't show the circuit. Larry


1855 lift pump kit

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on June 20, 2011 at 09:29:03 PM by Dan

Larry, can I get a diapragm kit to repair the lift pump on an 1855D? Is it wort repairing the pump or replacing?

Re(1): 1855 lift pump kit

IP: 75.104.183.128 Posted on June 21, 2011 at 07:02:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I would probably replace the pump. But, check with Korves Oliver 618-939-6681, and see if they have a diaphragm. Larry


Fuel issue on 770

IP: 174.125.91.74 Posted on June 17, 2011 at 08:37:01 PM by Greg Arnett

First off I'll say that this 61' Oliver 770 is new to me from somebody who wanted their dad's tractor to go to somebody who would give it a good home. Ever since I've had it there have been fuel issues. I started out by rebuilding the carburetor, making sure the air filter was unobstructed and replacing the spark plugs. That didn't take care of it. Then I found out about the screen above the fuel bowl. When I took that down it was packed with junk above it. I figured I had it, but it still wouldn't run without the choke way out (especially if I was running at full throttle for a time). I checked the fuel flow and it still seemed light. I then found some junk in the gas tank and also up in the shut off valve assembly. I removed that and cleaned it out completely, removed the junk from the gas tank, blew out the fuel line with compressed air to make sure it wasn't blocked, and put it all back together. Again it seems like the choke needs to be way out for it to run properly. I'm wondering if in the whole process junk moved forward into the carburetor and I need to clean it out again. It also seems like the idle mixture screw and high speed adjustment just don't do much. I'm pretty stumped at this point, every time I think I've got it...I don't. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Re(1): Fuel issue on 770

IP: 75.104.182.88 Posted on June 17, 2011 at 10:10:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I would take the fuel strainer assembly clear out of the tank and make sure it is unobstructed. Sometimes there is something as small as a lady bug or a bundle of spider web that is in there. Very hard to find. Larry

Re(2): Fuel issue on 770

IP: 69.72.27.94 Posted on June 18, 2011 at 12:11:39 PM by Larry from MD

I agree, but also check the carb gasket nose area between the 2 floats.This needs to seal good or the running circuits will not draw gas like they should and you will have to use the choke.The tractor will act up right away with this problem.With a slow flow the tractor will actup when it needs power.

Re(1): Fuel issue on 770

IP: 174.124.241.251 Posted on June 28, 2011 at 08:02:40 PM by Greg Arnett

I just thought I would give an update on this issue. Tonight I went back through it all again to hopefully get the issue resolved. Made sure the gas tank, valve assembly, fuel screen, and fuel line were all clean. Didn't find anything there. However, when I opened up the carburetor I had sucked a few small pieces (which I think were previously what I had seen above the screen way back when) into it. After cleaning out the carburetor and reassembling it all back together the ol' 770 ran like a champ. I pushed some stuff out in the woods and even opened it up at full throttle and went down the road just to make sure. Sure is nice to have it running properly!


1850 Diesel losing prime

IP: 69.168.144.151 Posted on June 15, 2011 at 07:12:59 PM by Todd D

My 1850 is losing the prime in the injection pump. I have changed filters this spring. When I go to start in the morning the tractor will start good as usual and run for 2-3 seconds then run out of fuel. I have no visable leaks in any lines or filters. There is good flow from the tank. I can prime it easliy with the fuel pump. It has the CAV pump. After I reprime the pump it seems to run good although the other day it had been running for 1/2 hour at about 1200 rpm and it started to sputter and miss and eventually died out. I reprimed later and it ran fine. Does not seem to be short of fuel when under a load. SHOULD I START BY CHANGEING THE FUEL PUMP?? Is there a one way check valve in this system?

Re(1): 1850 Diesel losing prime

IP: 75.104.168.15 Posted on June 16, 2011 at 06:17:46 AM by Larry Harsin

The fuel pump or "transfer pump" on the right side of the engine may be at fault there. It may have a check valve that isn't doing it's job. Also, make sure that adequate fuel is coming through the fuel strainer on the bottom of the tank. Larry


1755 Hydraulic Lines

IP: 70.104.94.249 Posted on June 15, 2011 at 05:46:09 PM by Mike

Larry, bought an one owner, 1755 cab tractor and went to change the hydraulic lines and couplers. Well, the capscrew from axle housing to rear won't let the new hydraulic line fit. Have a piece of ready bolt installed. Trying to change the hydraulic filter and the screw won't hardly budge. My manual says turn the filter counterclockwise. Before I break something wanted to check. Does this stuff happen to anybody else? Thanks!

Re(1): 1755 Hydraulic Lines

IP: 69.72.27.156 Posted on June 15, 2011 at 05:54:13 PM by Larry from MD

Yes all the time.That filter is hard to get loose,evan if its not tighted real hard when put on.

Re(2): 1755 Hydraulic Lines

IP: 70.104.94.249 Posted on June 15, 2011 at 06:15:43 PM by Mike

Appreciate it. I was fixin to lose my mind. Missed working ground for corn due to this long story but hope to drill beans behind wheat here in a little bit.

Re(3): 1755 Hydraulic Lines

IP: 75.104.168.15 Posted on June 16, 2011 at 06:13:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It starts real hard. Larry


1966 oliver 1850 diesel

IP: 152.121.17.254 Posted on June 12, 2011 at 05:45:09 PM by Justin Stanley

The tractor currently has Napa All-Purpose Tractor fluid P/N=NHF 85405 in the Hydro power with a napa filter, and it is working fine, other than a drip or 2 from the rear seal. I am going to change the fluid and was wondering the best course of action to give the unit the longest life. I know the manual says type A tranny fluid, so should I go back to dexron III or IV auto trans fluid? Please let me know what type and brand fluid and filters you recommend I use.

Re(1): 1966 oliver 1850 diesel

IP: 75.105.54.160 Posted on June 12, 2011 at 09:42:40 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd stay with the NAPA fluid and the NAPA filter should work fine. Larry


Hydraulic Valve 55 Oliver

IP: 98.168.213.200 Posted on June 11, 2011 at 03:29:12 PM by Larry K

How do you replace the O rings on the selector valve (slow - Fast) on the hydraulic control valve. I have the manual and the parts book and it does not show how to replace the seals on the rotating vertical shaft. It leaks oil on top if the valve body.

Re(1): Hydraulic Valve 55 Oliver

IP: 75.105.54.160 Posted on June 12, 2011 at 09:41:01 PM by Larry Harsin

It appears that there is a roll pin that is 1/8 inch x 1 1/8 inch long and fits in a slot in the valve that is leaking. You'll have to remove the main valve body from the tractor before you can remove the roll pin. After removing the roll pin, it should slide right out of there. Then, you can replace the O ring which is a 1/16" by 5/16ID. Larry


Oliver restoration

IP: 99.95.250.192 Posted on June 11, 2011 at 03:22:30 PM by Jake

Hi, Larry I am restoring what I think is a 1800 Oliver tractor. The engine plate is gone so I have no idea what kind of engine is in it other than I know it is diesel and it's a six cylinder. Here is the serial# 110644-886 and here is the spec# 18-2201. If u could help me figure this issue it would be greatly appreciated. thank you jake

Re(1): Oliver restoration

IP: 75.105.54.160 Posted on June 12, 2011 at 09:31:27 PM by Larry Harsin

You have an 1800A series tractor. A means it is an early one 1960. It has a Waukesha engine 283 cubic inch. Larry

Re(2): Oliver restoration

IP: 99.95.250.192 Posted on June 14, 2011 at 10:51:23 PM by Jake Sweeney

Where is the best place to get restoration parts? Where do I find the original paint and Decals? Thank you Larry for everything. Very much appreciated.

Re(3): Oliver restoration

IP: 75.105.44.50 Posted on June 16, 2011 at 11:50:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Talk to Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. I'd recommend the Meadow Green and Clover White paint from AGCO. You can get decals from Lyle Dumont 641-622-2592. You can also talk to Lyle about paint. If you have to do very much to the engine, you should probably talk to Maibach Tractor, after you talk to Korves. 800-808-9934. Larry


1755 diesel

IP: 69.26.12.37 Posted on June 9, 2011 at 04:03:12 PM by Bill Wagner

I am looking at a 1755 and wondering who built the diesel engine for that tractor? Does that engine have a good reputation for durability and over all quality?

Re(1): 1755 diesel

IP: 75.105.54.160 Posted on June 12, 2011 at 09:27:34 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a Waukesha engine and it is o.k. Larry


1750 Valve Lash

IP: 166.233.55.246 Posted on June 8, 2011 at 11:13:34 AM by Spencer

What is the cold, intake and exhaust valve lash for a 1750 Oliver, with a 310 Wakasah gas motor.

Re(1): 1750 Valve Lash

IP: 75.104.169.176 Posted on June 8, 2011 at 08:20:21 PM by Larry Harsin

15 & 24. Larry


Super 55 brakes

IP: 69.5.128.118 Posted on June 7, 2011 at 09:48:53 AM by Super m

I put new brake pads on my super 55, and now with the adjuster bolt back all the way out, the brakes are still so tight I can't turn the axle, i have taken them back apart and made sure evrything is lined up and not binding, i double checked and the brake pads are the correct ones, any ideas?

Re(1): Super 55 brakes

IP: 69.72.27.159 Posted on June 7, 2011 at 11:29:02 AM by Larry from MD

Sometimes new pads are just too thick.You can add shims between the cover and houseing or use one new and one old disc for awhile.

Re(2): Super 55 brakes

IP: 184.0.10.118 Posted on June 7, 2011 at 11:47:19 PM by J.Mash

If you have the bolts too tight that hold the drums, that will cause your problem. It distorts the drums.Only tighten them enough to flatten out the lock washers and try that. I can not remember the torque, But is is not very much.Keep at least 2 inches of free travel in your pedals at all times. Put parking brake on when tractor is not in use. It keeps the drums and expanders from rusting up and being grabby. It tells you this in the owners manual. But i learned all this the hard way. If that does not work for you, shim it like Larry said.

Re(3): Super 55 brakes

IP: 75.104.169.176 Posted on June 8, 2011 at 06:41:47 AM by Larry Harsin

These guys have it right! Especially with the bolt being tightened too much. It's a big bolt, but it doesn't have to be very tight. Larry


1953 Oliver OC-46-3C

IP: 74.124.102.18 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 11:04:03 PM by Thomas Blazy

Have a 1953 Oliver OC-46-3C Ser 3 5WR-672 Oliver Crawler Gasoline. Looks like number above block is 53E. Where can I find Shop Manual. Owned this since 1959 Homesteaded in Alaska with it, still use it but cant get it started. Got Gas, set points at 20,000. Any Ideas??? Amazing I could find any info. on this ever. Internet is great, thanks to my wife. Thanks for any information or help. Tom

Re(1): 1953 Oliver OC-46-3C

IP: 75.104.169.176 Posted on June 6, 2011 at 08:07:50 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual, a Shop Manual and/or a Parts Manual from the Floyd Co, Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099 Website: www.hartparroliver.org/store.html Landis Zimmerman, Ephrata PA is the expert on repairing the Cletracs. Check with him on parts and service. Website: www.olivercletrac.com Email: zoc@pcfreemail.com Phone: 717-738-2573. Larry


oliver tractor

IP: 66.242.207.136 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 10:50:12 AM by walter

Is it ok to put oliver tractors for sale on this site?

Re(1): oliver tractor

IP: 75.104.168.181 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 07:27:58 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You should run an ad in the Oliver Collector magazines. These magazines are read by over 6000 Oliver Collectors every month. Oliver Heritage magazine email: ads@oliverinformation.com HPOCA magazine email: hpocaeditors@gmail.com Larry


S88 engine rebuild

IP: 207.118.106.189 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 09:47:46 AM by joe stratte

My Oliver 88 gas engine threw a rod, made a small hole in the block and broke the camshaft in 2 places. Is it worth rebuilding and are all the parts including the camshaft still available?

Re(1): S88 engine rebuild

IP: 75.104.168.181 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 07:24:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I have used parts that you would need. You have to decide if it is worth fixing or not. 712-362-2966. Larry


1650 Hyd remotes

IP: 76.182.138.243 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 01:12:36 AM by Doug

Recently bought a 1650. Has two remote levers and is plumbed up on the left side only. I need the other set so I pulled the plugs opposite the others, but they have pressure on them all the time! I assumed these would not be power beyond, but I'm stuck! Thank you

Re(1): 1650 Hyd remotes

IP: 75.104.168.181 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 06:33:21 AM by Larry Harsin

That's the way they are. You need to get an Operator's Manual and it will explain all of this, You can get one from the museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Hyd remotes

IP: 69.72.27.8 Posted on June 5, 2011 at 07:17:56 AM by Larry from MD

After going to the remotes the oil goes to the 3 point hitch,so there is allways some back preasure on the remotes.I have measured anywhere from 60 to 650 psi,lowering the 3 point to the bottem usually lowers the psi.Hook them up and see if it works.They might be ok, or they might blow apart your cylinder.


60 charging system

IP: 216.51.160.168 Posted on June 3, 2011 at 10:16:56 PM by Gary

Hi Larry, I purchased a Oliver 60 last week. I noticed that it has a fresh generator on it but the field is not hooked up. It doesn't have a light switch in it to hook up to. I was wondering if a regulator for fleetline tractor would work with the 60 generator? Thanks Gary

Re(1): 60 charging system

IP: 75.104.168.181 Posted on June 4, 2011 at 06:53:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. It might work, but I can't say for sure. Larry

Re(2): 60 charging system

IP: 209.50.26.175 Posted on June 7, 2011 at 09:43:06 PM by B A Star

The original generator on the Oliver 60 was a third brush generator. The field circuit got it's current from the third brush on the commutator and went to ground through the light switch. When the switch was pushed all the way in the ground circuit went though a resistor for low charge. Pulled out one stop the circuit went directly to ground for high charge. Rate of charge was regulated by the position of hte third brush on the commutator. Yes you can use a regulator by wiring the field terminal to the "F" terminal on the regulator. If the holes don't line up on the generator you can mount the regulator remotely anywhere on the tractor.


1850 Perkins Diesel injectors

IP: 161.130.20.229 Posted on June 3, 2011 at 08:51:54 PM by Kevin

I have a 1968 Oliver 1850 with the Perkins diesel. The injectors have never been repaired/replaced. The old girl is getting hard to start - is used daily, so fresh fuel, filters, all the usual. I am having the clutch replaced this week and am curious as to your thoughts on replacing the injectors. The injector pump is new and working wonderfully.. Thank you in advance for your time - much appreciated... Kevin

Re(1): 1850 Perkins Diesel injectors

IP: 75.104.168.181 Posted on June 4, 2011 at 06:51:22 AM by Larry Harsin

If they have never been checked, I'd sure have it done while it is in there. At least have them checked. Larry


super 77

IP: 75.121.135.77 Posted on May 31, 2011 at 09:38:16 PM by Scott

Larry I have oil leaking out of my counter shaft. I have been using 303 in both the hydraulic system and transmission. I have to add fluid to both. Witch is likely to be leaking out the counter shaft? Could I use a heavier oil? Can I buy an overhaul kit for the counter shaft or do I have to buy seals individually?

Re(1): super 77

IP: 75.104.169.75 Posted on June 1, 2011 at 09:53:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I would put 90 w transmission oil in the transmission, to start with. It takes about 4 or 5 gal. That might stop it. What you are using is pretty light. If this doesn't work, then I would try the seals. Larry


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