77 R/C shifting problems

IP: 63.159.210.168 Posted on July 25, 2003 at 09:19:37 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake

Larry , I have a hard time shifting from Hi -to - Low range. And when I 'm in low range there is a lot of gear noise in first gear for the first 20 feet or so then it quiets down. This is a 1950 Ser.# 333869. Hope you both have been well and getting to those Oliver events, Thanks,Tom

Re(1): 77 R/C shifting problems

IP: 67.2.248.185 Posted on July 26, 2003 at 06:49:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The noise could be about anything. Take the top off the transmission and see what is going on. Possibly the nut on the front end of the bevel pinion shaft has come loose so that it allows the bevel pinion shaft to move back and forth. If this is has happened, you may be able to remove the cover on the front of the bevel pinion shaft and reinstall the nut. This has happened to me on occasion and I have been able to reinstall the nut. Then I spot it with a welder so that it won't happen again. As far as the hard shifting is concerned, if it does not improve after you found out what things look like, I would suspect that you have a worn poppet block on your shifting rails. Another thing that may be loose in the transmission is the counter shaft. There are shims on that cap on the front to adjust it also. I'm not certain that what I mention will solve your problem, but these are things to look for. Let me know what you do find. We are both fine - very busy. We enjoyed the National Show at Penfield IL and are looking forward to the Secondary Show at Albert City - 40 miles from here. We will take several tractors to this one. Larry

Re(2): 77 R/C shifting problems

IP: 63.159.185.118 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 09:51:06 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake

Thanks larry for the detailed diagnosis. I had this tractor at a two day show and just brought it back this afternoon. It shifted perfectly within the low range and no noise either. I'll let you know what I find later on with it's hard shifting inspection. Be Well ,Tom

Oliver 1265 PTO Issue

IP: 216.45.2.66 Posted on July 25, 2003 at 11:35:14 AM by Matt

The PTO on my 1265 won't disengage with the clutch. I can turn it off with the lever by the gear shift lever but thats it. This tractor has a two stage clutch but I've adjusted it all the way in either direction and still nothing is different. I can feel the "second stage" with the clutch pedal but the PTO just keeps on agoing! HELP!

Re(1): Oliver 1265 PTO Issue

IP: 67.2.242.51 Posted on July 25, 2003 at 07:55:53 PM by Larry Harsin

You will probably have to split the tractor to find out what is going on. Those 2 stage clutches are a little touchy. When they work, they are great, but when they don't, they are trouble. Larry

Smoke!

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 25, 2003 at 07:44:57 AM by chris pileski

larry, thanks to your help and the help of others here, this non-mechanic finally got his 770 up and discing some field the other day. however, after about 20 minutes of discing there appeared to be some white smoke coming out of the oil breather tube. the engine was under quite a bit of strain as the ground was not the easiest to till. then engine also seemed to be missing, or chugging on at least one cylinder. i'm guessing there might be an exhaust valve problem? what are your thoughts please. i don't want to damage this tractor. p.s. i stopped discing as soon as i noticed the smoke.

Re(1): Smoke!

IP: 67.2.242.51 Posted on July 25, 2003 at 07:52:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Is the anti-freeze staying in the radiator like it is supposed to? It doesn't sound good. You may have engine coolant getting into the crankcase or you may have severe compression loss around one or more of the pistons. Larry

engine for oliver 1755

IP: 12.105.86.217 Posted on July 23, 2003 at 09:47:38 AM by Hank

Hi Larry I have a 195gku Waukesha engine. It is 310 cu. in. I don't have much about it or the 310 that goes into Oliver tractors. Is it the same block as the 310 that is in the 1755 tractors?

Re(1): engine for oliver 1755

IP: 67.2.248.200 Posted on July 23, 2003 at 07:44:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it probably is. Larry

Oliver/HP 70 cracked block

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 22, 2003 at 08:53:48 PM by Larry

Just bought a '37 HP 70. The block is cracked front to back between each cylinder. Front and back ends look fine. Is it repairable or junk? Also got a line on a 5 gear block out of a '39 70, will that fit in my Hart Parr/Oliver?

Re(1): Oliver/HP 70 cracked block

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on July 22, 2003 at 10:38:17 PM by Larry Harsin

If it's not cracked down in the bottom where the sleeves seal, it is usable. I think that other block may fit. If your original block is cracked only on the top deck between the cylinders, that is not unusual. I would try to use it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver/HP 70 cracked block

IP: 205.188.209.75 Posted on July 23, 2003 at 08:06:48 AM by Larry

Thanx Larry

770 clutch

IP: 208.11.117.87 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 10:19:57 PM by Kraig McMillan

Larry, my 770 will not always shift into or out of gear. Sometimes the clutch works fine, other times not to good. Is this the clutch disc, pressure plate or something else? How big of a job is it to replace clutch and pressure plate if I need to. The tractor does not have a power booster. I have slid the bell housing back as far as I could( about 3 inches) and found some peices of metal in the bottom as well as a lose/broken something that fits under the throw out bearing or maybe pressure plate. Whats left of it is what looks like a thin wall piece of pipe that is on the drive shaft, any ideas? Do you have a parts breakdown of a clutch assembly you could email? As always thanks so very much for your advice, I would be lost with out you. Kraig McMillan

Re(1): 770 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.128 Posted on July 22, 2003 at 06:12:54 AM by Larry Harsin

The clutch bell housing will have to be removed from the tractor. To do this, first of all you must remove the fuel tank and the power take-off drive shaft that goes up to the engine from the rear. After removing the gas tank, remove the cover that has the PTO lever on it. Then you will find three 3/8 cap screws just ahead of the PTO clutch. Remove these. Then you can take a small pry bar and the clutch assembly with the shaft will slide back and out of the tractor. Then unbolt the drive shaft coupling between the clutch and the transmission and slide it forward onto the clutch shaft. Now you can remove the engine clutch housing and be able to see what you need. The piece thats all broken up is the tube that carries the throw-out bearing. While you are in there, unbolt the pressure plate and make sure everything else is o.k. You could very likely need a new clutch disc. Also check the pilot bearing assembly. We don't have a scanner to send the parts breakdown. You should probably have a Service Manual for this tractor. You can get one from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Re(2): 770 clutch

IP: 208.11.117.32 Posted on July 22, 2003 at 06:16:07 AM by Anonymous

Thank you !!! KMcMillan

1600 hydraulic

IP: 68.115.59.131 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 09:53:35 PM by Mike

Larry - I have an Oliver 1600 rice model. There was a light hydrolic leak. I got the tractor running after about 3 years and was going to work it a little and I lost all steering and hydrolic fluid. Is the power steering and hydrolic unit all one tank? Does the tractor have to be split and replace the front seal? How much could I expect to get for it in it's unrepaired condition vs. good working condition? Thanks

Re(1): 1600 hydraulic

IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on July 22, 2003 at 05:54:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the power steering and hydraulic unit is all in one tank. I don't understand what you are asking. Which front seal? I can't give you a value either way. Larry

steering sector

IP: 164.58.223.135 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 09:11:40 AM by mitch

Larry, I removed the steering sector below the steering wheel and replaced all bearing,o-rings and seals. When I replaced the unit and pressured it up oil comes out of the end of the shaft where it tapers from large to small where the steering wheel connects, my manual shows this as a one piece shaft. Also something is put together wrong because I don't have to turn the steering wheel to turn the wheels, just hold pressure to one side or the other. If this is not fixable can you tell me where I could find another sector.

Re(1): steering sector

IP: 67.2.248.138 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 09:48:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You may need another unit. Larry

1750 OLIVER PARTS

IP: 216.184.41.252 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 07:26:09 AM by Stanley

Where can I purchase oliver 1750 parts at a reasonable price. Ours runs great but has some oil leaks and we need a new raidator. I also have some older oliver parts to two old oliver tractors that my dad used.

Re(1): 1750 OLIVER PARTS

IP: 67.2.248.138 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 09:45:54 AM by Larry Harsin

For 1750 parts, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. For a radiator for your 1750, check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

cockshutt 30

IP: 69.43.0.246 Posted on July 20, 2003 at 06:30:54 PM by Larry

I just purchased two old cockshutt 30's and I don't know if they are positive or negative ground. Can you help me out?

Re(1): cockshutt 30

IP: 67.2.249.11 Posted on July 21, 2003 at 08:02:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Your cockshutt 30 is positive ground. Larry

1555 hydrolics and 5100 follow up

IP: 208.10.124.22 Posted on July 19, 2003 at 07:42:20 PM by Larry from MD

I did use my 1555 with the 5100s planter this year.I finally figured that it worked fine if I only moved the markers while the planter was up.That was not a problem just raise the planter first, then the marker,then let the other marker down,then let the planter down.No extra valve needed.

Re(1): 1555 hydrolics and 5100 follow up

IP: 67.2.242.123 Posted on July 20, 2003 at 09:35:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Good for you. That should be part of the instructions in the book that came with that planter. Larry

1800 Servicing

IP: 12.84.237.170 Posted on July 19, 2003 at 00:25:15 AM by Jeff

I was wondering what type of gear lube and how to service the trans and rearend on a 1800B. S/N starts wirth 125XXX if I remember right. I found the two plugs on the left side, below the operators platform. I'm sure these are fill ports atleast I'm guessing for the transmission. I'm also going to guess 80W90 is the lube I want. What I need to know, is there an overflow or level plug for either of these? Is the rearend serviced from a plug below (behind) the operators seat? I posted on the YT site, but the only response I got was... go buy the manuals. I have an IT, and yes I'll get the manuals. I don't have them now and I would like to service these. Thanks.

Re(1): 1800 Servicing

IP: 67.2.248.240 Posted on July 19, 2003 at 04:34:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Use 80-90 GL4. Yes, they are the fill ports and the level ports, meaning to fill them to that level. No. The farther back plug of the 2 plugs takes care of the rearend. If you drain all of the compartments and then fill at those 2 plugs, you will be o.k. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Servicing

IP: 12.47.248.120 Posted on July 20, 2003 at 08:09:19 AM by Jeff

Thank you very much for answering my question. I have another, should the "sign boards" that the 1800 decal goes on be painted white or off-white (greenish) color?

Re(3): 1800 Servicing

IP: 67.2.242.123 Posted on July 20, 2003 at 09:33:17 PM by Larry Harsin

That should be painted Clover White (greenish) before the decal is applied. Larry

1850?

IP: 208.10.124.209 Posted on July 18, 2003 at 08:56:54 AM by Larry from MD

I have my 1850 apart replaceing rear wheel bearings.I found a cotter pin in the bottem and it apparently holds the hydrolic drive gear on its shaft.The pin was an old break and was laying in there for some time.I can't seem to find a reason for it to break.The bearings and everything look fine.Can i just replace the pin or is something else wrong.

Re(1): 1850?

IP: 67.2.248.174 Posted on July 18, 2003 at 07:53:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I doubt if anything else is wrong. I understand what you are talking about and I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Larry

1750

IP: 67.29.219.83 Posted on July 17, 2003 at 09:04:12 PM by J. BEDWELL

LARRY,HERE IS THE SERIAL # FOR MY 1750, CAN YOU TELL ME THE YEAR IT WAS MADE? #186-954-427, LEAVE ME YOUR MAILING ADDRESS, I WOULD LIKE TO SEND YOU A PICTURE-THIS IS ONE NICE TRACTOR! THANK YOU FOR THE SERVICE YOU PROVIDE

Re(1): 1750

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on July 17, 2003 at 10:04:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1750 was built in 1967. Our address is: Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334. We enjoy our website. Larry & Sandy

2-70 Tach Cable

IP: 24.189.147.225 Posted on July 17, 2003 at 04:08:38 PM by Hal S.

I want to replace the tach cable on a White 2-70. I see the engine end is easy to get at. Do I just have to remove the small screws on the instrument cluster to get at the other end? Will it pull away enough to unloosen the cable? Does the cable pass thru any tight spots where it will be difficult to remove/install? Where should I purchase a new cable? Thanks. Hal

Re(1): 2-70 Tach Cable

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on July 17, 2003 at 10:00:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't worked on a 2-70. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will help you and will have the new cable. Larry

Re(2): 2-70 Tach Cable

IP: 152.163.253.8 Posted on July 20, 2003 at 03:16:39 PM by Don-WI

I would only replace the inner cable, slide it through the old outer peice. I made the mistake of replacing the entire thing in my 1755, and yeah, there are a lot of tight places to try to convince it to go. must've pinched the cable in one spot, causing the cable to not turn smoothly, it would bind and then turn really fast. Result was a broken tach needle, but it still keeps track of the hours. It is broken in now so I can't actually hear it bind anymore.

88 diesel looks

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 09:00:44 PM by Todd Brandenburg

I just bought an Oliver from my grandpa and I would like to know what it is suposed to look like and what year it is. The serial # is 3511374, I would like to know if the sides are open by the engine and what colors are used. Also, I think the tractor is a 12V, where can I find an alternator, voltage regulator, and wiring harness for them?

Re(1): 88 diesel looks

IP: 67.2.249.9 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 11:11:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 88 Diesel was built in 1953. No, there were side panels on the sides of the engine. The Green is Maratin Senour 99L-3751. Wheels were red - Martin Senour red 99L-3752. Grills were Fleetline yellow - 99L-11611. You can get an alternator and a voltage regulator from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. You can get a wiring harness from Korves Bros. Email: korves@htc.net. Their website is: www.korvesoliver.com. Larry

Re(2): 88 diesel looks

IP: 66.84.240.35 Posted on July 17, 2003 at 12:31:56 AM by Todd Brandenburg

So, were the side panels fleetline style or just regular panels?

Re(3): 88 diesel looks

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on July 17, 2003 at 09:58:00 PM by Larry Harsin

The panels were Fleetline style. Larry

Lights on RC 88

IP: 64.146.51.98 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 12:32:15 AM by Valerie

I am in the process of restoring my 1949 row crop 88. I just purchased the fender mounted flood lights for it and I was wondering what color was the outside metal casing originally painted. At the national show in Pennfield, IL this past weekend I saw some that were green and others were black. I am thinking they were originally green but I need some assurance. I hope you can help.

Re(1): Lights on RC 88

IP: 209.50.4.225 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 10:40:33 PM by bastar

The lights on the row crop 88 tractors were painted black through S/N 136898 or part way through the 1951 production. After that they were painted green.

770 steering

IP: 63.229.151.115 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 11:11:17 PM by Rod

I have a 1965 Oliver 770 Industrial with a 778 front end loader and backhoe. The tractor came with a house I bought becuase the owner hadn't been able to get it running in years. I have been tinkering with it and have got it running pretty well. One problem I am having is that the power steering pump pumps fluid out through the lid. I have covered this with a piece of rubber but it still loses fluid. Can you tell me what is the problem and where I can get a replacement cap for the pump? Also where can I get a manual for this tractor.

Re(1): 770 steering

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 05:38:16 AM by Larry Harsin

For a lid for the pump, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You can get a manual from the Museum in Charles City IA (where your tractor was built). Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net.

550 thermostat

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 08:10:03 PM by Ricky

Sorry to bother you again so soon but could you tell me what thermostat I need for a 1964 550 gas serial # 147-333-519. Thanks for your help

Re(1): 550 thermostat

IP: 67.2.248.87 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 10:02:35 PM by Larry Harsin

The correct part number from AGCO is 101400A. Larry

Re(2): 550 thermostat

IP: 205.188.208.74 Posted on July 19, 2003 at 09:54:54 AM by Ricky

I also found it at NAPA it is a Thompson part # 55 Thanks for your help

2-70 Problem solved

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 07:03:50 PM by Charles

I solved the shutting down problem, on the return line from the pump, there is a check valve in the first fitting that leaves the pump, returning to the injectors and tank. The spring and ball was a little crusty. This is the first fitting coming out of the pump. Probally building up to much pressure at different times. Just thought I would let you know and thanks for your replies. Charles

Re(1): 2-70 Problem solved

IP: 67.2.248.87 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 10:00:57 PM by Larry Harsin

That's great!! Larry

88 Diesel

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 03:11:04 PM by Bill Fleck

We have an 88 diesel and it needs new batteries is it possible to put just one battery 12 V that will have the amps to start it, if so what is the size and make, we do not use it in winter. Also could it use 15-40 oil as we use in our other diesel 4240. Thank you for the help. Sincerely, Bill

Re(1): 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.87 Posted on July 15, 2003 at 09:59:21 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a single 12 volt battery from your battery supplier. The last one I bought was approx. 970 cold cranking amps. It will be adequate for cranking the engine in above freezing weather. Yes, it can use 15-40 oil. Larry

Need info on 77rc colors

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on July 11, 2003 at 03:00:21 PM by Ron Scott

Hello. We have an oliver 77 Row crop narrow front gasoline tractor. We want to paint it and decals to original. Can you tell me the colors and decals to use and what colors to put where? thanks, Ron

Re(1): Need info on 77rc colors

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on July 14, 2003 at 06:05:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I really need the serial number of your 77, so that I know the year, to give you the correct color scheme. I'll call you. Larry

hydralics

IP: 67.3.53.32 Posted on July 10, 2003 at 11:41:20 PM by steve jacobson

Larrry, I have an oliver oc-3 with a front loader my problem is that I rebuilt the motor and replaced the hydralic lines and had the hydralic pump rebuild but the front loader will only lift at a very slow speed and will not lift at all when there is any thing in the bucket. What should I check next

Re(1): hydralics

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on July 14, 2003 at 06:02:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not familiar with that system. You should check with Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net or 717-738-2573. Larry

770amp light-timing

IP: 208.44.226.76 Posted on July 10, 2003 at 05:58:38 PM by RMiller

Dear LARRY,I have a 59 770 my amp guage light stays on all the time, what is the remedy to fix this problem? What is the best degree of timing to run on this tractor pulling in 5000# class, running a stock motor running 2100 rpm?

Re(1): 770amp light-timing

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on July 14, 2003 at 05:59:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Usually that is simply a problem with the generator brushes sticking. I would take the generator apart and clean it up and replace the brushes if they are worn down. Polish the commutator with some fine sandpaper and reassemble. If the light still stays on, then you will have to take the generator with the regulator to a generator repair shop. I would set the timing as specified in your Operator's Manual. I think it is approx. 20 degrees at full throttle. Larry

Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 08:26:05 PM by Larry

Will the engine frame from an 1850 bolt onto the transmission frame of a 1755 so a Perkins Diesel engine can replase the Waukesha engine? Thanks

Re(1): Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 10:10:20 PM by Larry Harsin Yes. Larry

Re(1): Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on July 8, 2003 at 01:51:34 PM by Shep VA

I have two thoughts for you on that conversion. 1- the 1850 is an open center hydraulic system and the 1755 is a closed, the 1755 will likely have a circulator pump run off a belt on the front left side of the engine. That pump must be moved over on the Perkins engine and mounted or you are going to have problems. 2- you will likely have to take the engines out of the frame before you can take the frames off the transmissions. Go buy yourself about 6 cheap 11/16 12 point sockets from the hardware store because you will break several trying to take the 8 bolts out that hold the frame to the transmission. I used a breaker bar and 4 foot of pipe to get them off and broke 4 sockets on one frame removal. Other than that, its an easy swap and you will have a lot better engine in the 354 Perkins that you had with the 310 Waukesha. Use the 1850 sheet metal and the 1755 side panels and no one will ever know you changed engines.

Re(2): Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 68.155.4.151 Posted on July 12, 2003 at 00:26:22 AM by George Steadman

Buy the impact socket and it will save some time. We welded one to a 3ft. bar save a bunch of parts.

Re(3): Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 02:44:12 PM by Shep

I have never been able to find a 12 point impact socket, I was going to check with my Snap on man the next time he was by, what brand did you get?????

Re(4): Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 152.163.252.68 Posted on July 20, 2003 at 03:21:05 PM by Don-WI

I bought one from Matco, about $11-12. Snap-on wanted about 20-30. Donovan from Wisconsin

Re(4): Perkins diesel into 1755

IP: 68.155.11.77 Posted on July 16, 2003 at 09:53:13 PM by George Steadman

S-K dealer had them in stock.

Oliver 77 hydraulic pump

IP: 204.107.143.182 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 07:55:40 PM by Joe Klein

I was wondering if somebody could tell me where I can check and add my hydraulic pump oil. Any help will be appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 77 hydraulic pump

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 10:08:50 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a breather with a dip stick right on top of the unit. Add the oil where the dip stick is located. Larry

1800b

IP: 208.203.4.140 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 02:50:51 PM by Curt

I recently purchased an 1800b gas and was wondering if this tractor is worth restoring? It needs a new carb (on order) then should run fine. the only other thing wrong with it is it's a little slobery around the engine. Could you give me a rough price of what that might cost as I have never had one restored before. Thanks

Re(1): 1800b

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 10:06:36 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the engine will need at least a set of rings with new head gasket and pan gasket. This will be in the neighborhood of $200. You may need to replace wrist pins and/or rod bushings. Also, check the main and rod bearings and replace if necessary. Rods and Mains will be approx. $250. Another point to be inspected is the valve guides and the valves. Valve guides will cost approx. $125. Valves if needed will cost approx. $15 each. I can help with some of the parts if you email me when you find out what you need. A paint job will cost $1000 to have it done by someone else. This tractor completely restored, would be worth approx. $4000 in our area. Larry

2-70

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 02:20:20 PM by Chas

First a little history> Not started in 6 years. 1700 hrs. Got it started with a new hot battery (almost stuck) Smoke is very clear even with added marvel oil. Tractor well maintained, cleaned system to the injector pump. New filter too. After about 3 hrs running, it shuts down every so often, say every 10 or 15 minutes, no given time, then start right back up as nothing happened. If figure its the injection pump how serious or what do you think it is? Thanks Chas

Re(1): 2-70

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 09:58:36 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is take the fuel strainer out of the bottom of the fuel tank and see if it needs to be cleaned. It sounds like it runs out of fuel after a bit of running. Larry

Re(2): 2-70

IP: 205.188.208.76 Posted on July 8, 2003 at 10:19:23 AM by Chas

I have taken the tank off, cleaned it and the fuel bowl, also screwed the fuel bowl/w cutoff out of the tank, cleaned it with a wire baking soda and vinegar, blowed air from filter back to the feed line too

Re(3): 2-70

IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on July 8, 2003 at 08:18:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know, I'm sorry. You are just going to have to keep checking things and figure it out. Larry

1550 Oliver Front End

IP: 199.131.196.45 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 11:34:51 AM by shawn

I'm looking at purchasing a 1550 row crop with what I believe is a 1610 Loader. I think it's a good deal but I DO NOT WANT the narrow front end. A cousin has a wide front from another oliver (1850 I think). Which wide front ends will switch with the 1550? I'd hate to travel 800 miles to MN from MO to get one that doesn't work.

Re(1): 1550 Oliver Front End

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 03:30:47 PM by Shep Va

The wide front off the 1850 will be the heavy duty oliver wide front end but as far as I know it will switch with the 1550 narrow front with no problem. I would not put the small narrow front from the 1550 on the 1850 though, get the heavy duty narrow front designed for the larger tractors to put on the 1850. Sheps World

Re(2): 1550 Oliver Front End

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 09:54:52 PM by Larry Harsin

We agree with Shep. I also have a wide front if it would work better than a swap. Email me if you are interested. I do not have a narrow front for an 1850. Larry

Re(3): 1550 Oliver Front End

IP: 199.131.196.45 Posted on July 8, 2003 at 08:40:43 AM by shawn

Thanks to both of you, Larry and Shep.

RC 88 Diesel

IP: 216.37.132.20 Posted on July 6, 2003 at 05:20:28 PM by Greg I have a 1953 88 row crop Diesel and i was wondering how can i tell what side panels came on my tractor in 1953 and what color the wheels and grill are orignal bolth are white now is this right? hope you can help.

Re(1): RC 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.240.172 Posted on July 6, 2003 at 06:37:36 PM by Larry Harsin

The 88 gas and diesel both used the same side panels. It is the full louvered panel. The wheels should be red and the grills and the hinged radiator cap are yellow. The bar that holds the grills on is red and if you want to get really fancy, the raised letters on it are yellow. Also the raised letters on the axle housing can be painted yellow. The red is Martin Senour red 99L-3752. The yellow is Martin Senour yellow 99L-11611 or you can use old caterpiller yellow from the Farm Fleet store. It is cheaper. Larry

hydraulic fluid again

IP: 198.81.26.13 Posted on July 6, 2003 at 12:40:14 AM by chris

larry, i'm having a dickens' of a time finding SAE 20. a local supplier says Case Hy-Tran Ultra is about the same. would this stuff be OK for my 1963 770?

Re(1): hydraulic fluid again

IP: 66.82.9.39 Posted on July 6, 2003 at 02:43:33 PM by Phil Dybing

See your previous posting (June 30) for my response.

770 carburator-manifolds

IP: 208.44.226.94 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 04:53:50 PM by r miller

Dear Larry I'm pulling this 58 770 and would like to run a larger carburator,and intake+exhaust manifold.Whatlarger tractor (IE 1550,1650,1750,1850,ETC)Will interchange with my head?I would also like to know the valvle lash for this tractor.I would also like to know if you would have any parts availiable.Thanks r.miller!

Re(1): 770 carburator-manifolds

IP: 67.2.242.92 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 10:16:29 PM by Larry Harsin

1550 is as big as you can go. The 1550 head is the same as is on the 770. You have the biggest manifold that you can put on it. You may be able to do some good with a 1550 carburator. The 1550 uses a TSX 903 carb you can get one from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Your 770 uses a TSX 755 carb, so I think the 903 might be of help. The valve lash is 10 on intake and 18 on exhaust. Larry

Battery boxes

IP: 12.30.157.70 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 07:51:15 AM by Randy

Larry, Do you have a pair of battery boxes to fit a Oliver 1650? And if you do how much?

Re(1): Battery boxes

IP: 67.2.249.150 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 12:58:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I have them, but you just as well get them from T.H.E. Co. at 800-634-4885. They have a website also: www.the-co.com Larry

Re(2): Battery boxes

IP: 12.30.157.32 Posted on July 6, 2003 at 02:20:20 PM by Randy

Thank you !!

Oliver 1600 with Westendorf loader

IP: 68.115.13.108 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 06:26:41 PM by Jessica

I am currently looking for a 20" Hydraulic ram for a westendorf loader that fits on a Oliver 1600 tractor. Where do I find such a thing?

Re(1): Oliver 1600 with Westendorf loader

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 06:03:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien County Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver70rowcrop

IP: 63.155.216.25 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 02:42:05 PM by phil

Where can i get engine kits for these tractors?

Re(1): oliver70rowcrop

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 06:00:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Korves Brothers. Email: korves@htc.net. Larry

Oliver 550

IP: 65.176.137.143 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 09:55:22 AM by Dennis

Larry, I have an Oliver 550 Diesel. I was running it the otherday and it didn't seem to want to stay in gear. It kept poping out. I could run it in second and it would stay in gear. Now all I have is reverse. I can not get it into a forward position! Any suggestions on what might be happening ???

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on July 5, 2003 at 05:59:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd take the hydraulic unit off of the tractor. The poppit springs on the shift rails have a habit of rusting and breaking. It could be something else, but you have to have a look and see what is happening. Larry

Coil Resistor

IP: 66.66.114.172 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 05:10:54 PM by Jim M

I want to replace my coil but I can't find in the manual anywhere what type of coil I need. I know it's 12 volts but is there an external or internal resistor? Are there any specs. for this? Thanks,

Re(1): Coil Resistor

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:13:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Your supplier where you purchase the coil should be able to tell you. You will have to tell your supplier what model tractor you have. Larry

1650 distributer

IP: 216.180.196.30 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 04:39:53 PM by larry

end play in distributor is so bad can't set points any ideas on what to do where can i find replacment or good used distributer thanks

Re(1): 1650 distributer

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:07:35 PM by Larry Harsin

If you can't make that one work, you will have to get a new Mallory distributor for it. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1650 distributer

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:10:36 PM by Larry Harsin

After I posted that answer, I happened to think that Valu-Bilt has had rebuilt distributers. You could check with them. They might do an exchange with you. 888-828-3276 Larry

Re(3): 1650 distributer

IP: 216.180.196.71 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 09:31:43 AM by LARRY

thanks i will check on them. also found genesee products that have electronic ignition for olivers that seems simple to replace what do you think of them?larry

Re(4): 1650 distributer

IP: 67.2.248.191 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 06:16:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know anything about them. It might be worth a try though. Larry

steering sector

IP: 164.58.223.135 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:29:15 AM by Mitch Zimmerman

I have an 1850 1967 model diesel with oil coming out of the steering wheel. I purchased a seal kit for the steering sector. I removed the sector from tractor and snap ring from sector unit according to manuel. The shaft will only move a 1\4 but no more any suggestions on how to get the sector apart so I can replace o-rings

Re(1): steering sector

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:05:00 PM by Larry Harsin

The way I fix them is: I leave the unit right on the tractor with the hoses hooked up. Then I remove the snap ring and start the tractor engine and work the steering shaft with pliers and let the tractor pump the seal out of the unit. When the seal reaches where you can get it out, put the new one in. You will have an oil mess, but that's the way I do it. Otherwise, it is very difficult to get that seal out of there. Larry

1655 / 2-85

IP: 130.76.96.14 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 09:51:52 AM by Pete in Ks

Larry I am thinking of trading my 1655 for a 2-85 or 2-105 white. What is the differences in tub frame width of these tractors as I would like to keep my loader if possible. Thanks

Re(1): 1655 / 2-85

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:00:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I think the loader will be compatible with either tractor. Larry

Re(2): 1655 / 2-85

IP: 208.10.124.11 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 11:16:39 AM by Larry from MD

Be advised the 2-85 has a closed center hydrolic system.If you are just useing from the remotes it wont matter,but if it has a seperate valve then that will need to be changed.

550 oliver

IP: 65.57.24.236 Posted on July 2, 2003 at 08:38:44 PM by Mark

Larry,where could i find a nice 550? thank you,Mark

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.51 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 06:43:38 AM by Larry Harsin

The 550 is a very desirable tractor and many of them were built. Check the ads in the collector magazines like Antique Power and the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine. Watch for farm sales. I don't know of one for sale right now. Larry

1550 Won't Idle

IP: 64.19.82.87 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 08:20:51 PM by Kris

I have a 1550 that will run above about 1200 RPM but stalls below that and will run for a while with the choke almost closed. I have adjusted the idle mixture screw and the load needle per the manual. Could the idle jet be plugged and if so can it be removed to clean it?

Re(1): 1550 Won't Idle

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 11:07:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You probably have a plugged passage someplace in the idle circuit of your carb. You will have to take it apart and clean it out. Larry

cockshutt 1650 hydraulics

IP: 198.174.203.122 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 05:57:37 PM by Dale Owens

My cockshutt 1650 developed a problem today - I was cutting hay, and had added quart of hydraulic oil before starting, and part-way through the day I noticed it getting slow raising the haybine header, and also going up hill it was hard to steer. I added almost 2 gals of hydraulic oil, and resumed cutting, but the same problems soon returned. I do see some oil leaking at the front of the transmission, but don't see any significant hydraulic leak. Is it possible to have an internal leak, so that the hyd oil is leaking into the transmission? And what might be the problem? I appreciate any ideas. Dale.

Re(1): cockshutt 1650 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 11:05:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is possible to be leaking into the transmission. A pump seal may have let go and is dumping oil into the transmission. The oil pan for the hydraulic may have devloped a crack and is leaking oil into the transmission. Larry

Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 198.81.26.13 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 12:26:39 AM by Chris Pileski

Larry, my operator's manual for my 1963 770 calls for 10W oil and Oliver 102 082-A oil additive as hydraulic fluid for this tractor. what would be the modern day equivalent for this? thanks in advance, and thanks for the help in the past.

Re(1): Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 11:01:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You can use a medium weight non-foaming hydraulic oil. Similar to SAE 20. Larry

Re(2): Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 198.81.26.47 Posted on July 1, 2003 at 09:21:25 AM by chris

thanks larry.

Re(3): Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 198.81.26.207 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 02:58:31 PM by chris

larry, i'm having a dickens' of a time finding SAE 20. a local supplier says Case Hy-Tran Ultra is about the same. would this stuff be OK for my 1963 770?

Re(4): Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 66.82.9.39 Posted on July 6, 2003 at 02:31:06 PM by Phil Dybing

Typical hydraulic oil is labeled as ISO 32, ISO 46, ISO 68 and ISO 100. Those are International designations (International Standards Organization) verses SAE. Most straight hydraulic oils use the ISO designation. ISO 46 is about 10 weight equivalent and ISO 68 is about 20 weight equivalent. I use ISO 68 in my Oliver 1600 and 1850. Either Case-IH Hytran or John Deere J20C will work fine. Those oils have higher EP additives to work as both transmission oil and hydraulic oil.

Oliver 1250

IP: 64.246.132.157 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 08:46:09 PM by John Tryon

Could someone give me any info on an Oliver 1250? It has Fiat gauges. When made?, HP?, serial # is 1252132. Any manuals avialable?

Re(1): Oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 00:14:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Your Oliver 1250 was built in Italy by Fiat. We don't have that serial number listed. It should be a number beginning with a 7. The beginning number for 1250's is 705376. The ending number is 742526. They were built from 1965 - 1969. They were 35 HP for the gas and 38 HP for the diesel. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net. There is a small charge. If you find a serial number that fits the numbers I have said, send it to us and we'll tell you the year. The serial number should be on the instrument panel on the lower left side as you sit in the seat. You can get parts from Rick's Agri Parts website: www.ricksagriparts.com or Harold Wolfe at 423-581-5557 or from Danny Bowes in Ontario Canada. Website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1250

IP: 64.246.132.160 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 09:40:41 PM by John Tryon

Actually the SN is 736027, the other number was the model number. Can you tell me any more about the tractor? So is the tractor a Fiat or an Oliver? The side canopy name plate is missing. What about the painting schemes? Re(3): Oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 10:59:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Your Oliver was built in Italy by Fiat for Oliver. It is an Oliver. It was built in 1967. The shipping weight was 3500 lbs. If you get an Operator's Manual, it will show the paint scheme in it. The wheels and grills were white and the rest of the tractor is green. We gave the address for Rick's Agri Parts - he will have the paint. Ask him about the name plate and check with the other addresses we gave you. Larry

Model 70 timing

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 12:03:51 AM by Larry

1938 oliver 70, I pulled the magneto out to change the wick seal. I put the mag back in and cant get it to run. I need to know how to time it. Thank you.

Re(1): Model 70 timing

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 00:03:17 AM by Larry Harsin

You need an Operator's Manual. It will tell you the proper procedure. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at the museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net. There is a small charge for the manual. Remove your #1 spark plug, turn the engine until you have compression on #1 piston, then try to get it on TDC. Now, set your magneto in a vise and put a spark plug wire in #1 spark plug wire hole, then turn the drive coupling until you get spark. Then, back up your drive coupling so that it will fire #1 again and install. This should do it. Larry

wide front end

IP: 216.51.196.70 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 11:14:38 AM by Karl

Will the wide front end from a 1650 fit a 1550?

Re(1): wide front end

IP: 208.10.124.148 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 11:26:14 AM by Larry from MD

YES

Super 55

IP: 24.24.56.188 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 10:38:56 AM by Jim M

Larry, I recently put a new Zenith Carb. on my Super 55. The tractor ran great for several hrs. I was moving some topsoil with the loader when the govenor started changing the engine RPMs to the point where the engine would stall. I had almost no power to move. I checked the service manual for the proper settings of the govenor to make sure they were right with regards to the linkage settings. The engine still did the same thing so I changed the six intake and exhaust manifold gaskets thinking maybe I was getting a lean fuel mixture. Still no difference in the engine performance. Could the govenor need to be rebuilt? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also wondering if you may know where I can get another small 90 degree flange that runs from the exhaust manifold to the muffler. I believe mine is the original and the casting has deteriorated.

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 00:20:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that you could have a bad governor that needs to be reworked. But first, I would remove the fuel line from the carb and check to be sure there is a good stream of fuel coming out of it. Many times on old tractors, the inlet in the fuel strainer coming out of the tank has foreign material lodged there. If possible, I usually remove the fuel strainer to be sure it is not blocked with spiders or other foreign material. You would be amazed at how many spiders I have removed from these. Larry

Re(2): Super 55

IP: 66.66.114.172 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 10:08:21 AM by Jim M

Larry, Thanks for your reply. When I'm stumped with a problem I always know you are there as a "go to guy". I have taken the gas tank off and cleaned it out and then put a new screen on the gas bowl. I get a nice steady stream of fuel coming out of the line going to the carb. I just can't figure out why the machine ran for about 15-20 hrs purring like a kitten and then all of the sudden the govenor started doing crazy things on me. When I checked the condition of the spark plugs they were gas fouled but I figured that was due to the govenor not keeping the idle speed correct. I cleaned and replaced them. I will take your suggeestion and see if I can get a rebuild kit for the govenor. PS..Any luck on the exhaust manifold 90 degree fitting? Agco wants $120.00 for a new one. Thanks again Larry!

Re(3): Super 55

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on June 30, 2003 at 11:12:52 PM by Larry Harsin

I think AGCO is the only place to get that fitting. Larry

Tach Gear

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on June 28, 2003 at 06:02:50 PM by Ricky Snow

The tach gear that fits to the distributor shaft has 2 broken teeth.Any way to fix or find a replacement? thanks

Re(1): Tach Gear

IP: 67.2.249.254 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 07:50:40 AM by Larry Harsin

What model Oliver?? I also need to know the serial number of the tractor before I can even make a guess. There are 4 different ones of those. Larry

Re(2): Tach Gear

IP: 205.188.209.42 Posted on July 4, 2003 at 09:08:17 PM by Ricky Snow

It is a 550 gas 1964 year serial# 147333-519 model #45-0037 Any help will be greatly appreciated

Re(3): Tach Gear

IP: 67.2.248.27 Posted on July 7, 2003 at 08:53:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The tach gear that you need is part number 101709A. I don't have one. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(4): Tach Gear

IP: 152.163.253.33 Posted on July 9, 2003 at 07:30:17 PM by Ricky

Thanks for your help.FYI you can't buy just the gear anymore you have to buy the whole assembly.It is around $70 bucks

Re(5): Tach Gear

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on July 14, 2003 at 06:08:05 AM by Larry Harsin

That's cheap!! I feel that that is not out of line for price. Larry

hydralics 1750

IP: 65.206.79.190 Posted on June 28, 2003 at 07:36:04 AM by elmer yale

when i use the hydralic outlets oil leaks down in the transmission reaend houseing internel leak.does not leak when outlets are not used

Re(1): hydralics 1750

IP: 67.2.249.254 Posted on June 29, 2003 at 07:48:33 AM by Larry Harsin

We posted our answer to this question on June 23. I don't know how this can happen as you discribe. If these outlets leak as you discribe, they would leak all the time, not just when using the hydraulic outlets. I gave you suggestions to look for. As you discribe this, I am stumped. Larry

Farmhand loader

IP: 12.30.157.11 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 10:37:14 PM by Randy

Does anyone know if a Farmhand Model 22 loader, (that came off an Allis Chalmers 190XT),will bolt up to an Oliver 1650?? Would I need different brackets? Thank you.

Re(1): Farmhand loader

IP: 67.2.248.145 Posted on June 28, 2003 at 07:01:01 AM by Larry Harsin I don't know. Larry

550 LUBRICANTS

IP: 63.89.90.86 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 05:58:18 AM by DAN

LARRY, I have a 1965 550 gas,and I have a copy of an original owners mannual, would suggest, following the mannual (as for hydraulic,engine oil ect) or are there more modern lubes that may work better,as a lot of improvment has been made in lubes since 1965.

Re(1): 550 LUBRICANTS

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 07:40:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I would pretty much stick with the Manual. As you say there have been many improvements in lubricants. The multi-purpose lubricants for transmission and the hydraulics work. It has to be your call. Larry

Re(2): 550 LUBRICANTS

IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 09:50:46 AM by stu

I think that I had a problem with going to an improved differential/transmission/hydraulic oil all in on in my super 55 transmission. The manual calls for a SAE 90 or 140, and the all-in-one is much thinner. I suspect its thin particle size/weight allowed it bypass some of the seals and ruin the PTO clutch. The leak started immediately after I updated the fluids when I bought it.

Oliver 1655 Diesel Crankshaft

IP: 67.0.85.128 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 00:14:53 AM by Dean Barker

Larry--The crankshaft broke in my 1655 diesel. It broke through the web between the center main and #4 rod journal. It had been ground .010 US on the rods and .020 Us on the mains approximately 4000 hours ago. I bought the tractor about 1000 hours ago. What would have caused it to break? How far undersized should a 283 crank be ground? I was told new 283 cranks are no longer available from AGCO. Do you know if new 310 cranks are available from AGCO? My block has cast part #166425A which is the same as a 310 block. Can I use a 310 crank with correct pistons in my block? Thanks Larry.

Re(1): Oliver 1655 Diesel Crankshaft

IP: 67.2.248.100 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 00:30:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is possible, but I will have to check in the Parts Manual. There may be a difference in the connecting rods. The pistons will be different. Otherwise, I think it is possible. New crankshafts can be purchased from Steiner Tractor Parts. 810-695-1919. It is my understanding that these crankshafts are made in China. They are approx. $1000. If I could find a good used 283 crank I would be more inclined to use it than a 310. Valu-Bilt catalog 888-828-3276, shows they have a reconditioned 283 crank with bearings for $830. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1655 Diesel Crankshaft

IP: 67.0.84.170 Posted on June 28, 2003 at 07:08:00 AM by Dean Barker

Larry--I found a 283 crank turned .010 on the rod and mains. Thank you for answering.

Re(3): Oliver 1655 Diesel Crankshaft

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:17:05 PM by Larry Harsin

That was a good find. It will be just as good as a new crankshaft. Larry

White 1710 loader

IP: 12.30.157.31 Posted on June 26, 2003 at 11:41:35 PM by Randy

Will a White model 1710 loader fit on an Oliver 1650 wide front?

Re(1): White 1710 loader

IP: 67.2.248.100 Posted on June 27, 2003 at 00:17:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it will. Larry

oliver plows

IP: 66.142.234.171 Posted on June 25, 2003 at 08:10:30 PM by mike bayless

my father and I are restoring an Oliver row crop 88 about 85% done but now looking for an Oliver plow to go with can you help.

Re(1): oliver plows

IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on June 26, 2003 at 05:55:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. I suggest that you put an ad in the HPOCA magazine. It is read by 6000 Oliver collectors. Email Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. I believe it is 35 cents a word. (Free to members) Larry

Re(1): oliver plows

IP: 65.73.163.250 Posted on June 26, 2003 at 10:28:47 PM by k medchill

I JUST READ AN AD FOR ONE A THREE BOTTOM IN MY LOCAL PAPER I LIVE 1HR EAST OF MINNEAPOLIS MN.

leaking hydrolics

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 05:42:32 AM by Fred Greenier

Re; 1955 77 super, Was wondering how to repair hydrolics leaking into the rearend, should I try to get a repair manual or is it a easy fix? thanks alot Fred.

Re(1): leaking hydrolics

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 09:15:09 PM by Larry Harsin

You should obtain a repair manual. The I & T Manual should cover it and it is cheaper. Email Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net and ask for an I & T Shop Manual for a S77. There is a charge. Larry

Tractor serial # local

IP: 68.3.50.190 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 00:34:50 AM by Janet

I would like to know where would I find the model # on my Oliver forklift? I aquired it through an Estate and I am seeking all the information I can find. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): Tractor serial # local

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 09:11:42 PM by Larry Harsin

We don't know what model Oliver you have. Is it a 550 or a 770 or what? The serial numbers were on tags somewhere on that tractor. The serial number will tell you what year it was built. The size of tractor should be on a decal on the hood or somewhere if it isn't rusted off. After we decide what tractor you have, you can email the museum in Charles City to get an Operator's Manual. Email Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net. Let me know what you find on your tractor. Larry

Oliver plow

IP: 66.84.192.180 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:16:17 PM by Amy

My nephew purchased an Oliver plow to use as a lawn ornament & asked me to see if I could find out when the plow was made or any info on it. Anyone have any info on plow with numbers NC23-14SC on it? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver plow

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 11:02:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Email Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. I believe she can answer this for you. Larry

oliver1750

IP: 67.29.210.82 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 05:57:45 PM by j. bedwell

larry what is the approx. weight of an oliver1750 with diesel engine,what year do u think it might be?

Re(1): oliver1750

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 11:00:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Send me the serial number and I can tell you the year it was built. They were built from 1966 throught 1969. The 1750 weighed 8650 lbs. shipping weight. Larry

Re(2): oliver1750

IP: 67.29.210.31 Posted on July 14, 2003 at 10:43:12 PM by j. bedwell

serial # is 186-954-427, send me your mailing address and i will send you a picture, this is one nice tractor

550 Steering

IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 12:45:13 AM by Greg

I have a 550 with a loader and it seems that the steering is very poor. I have a wide front and no power steering which makes the steering seem heavy. The part that concerns me more is that the turning radius is very large. Can the steering be adjusted to increase the turning radius and what is the turning radius of a 550? I'm thinking that someone might have had this done to avoid hitting the loader. I'm also thinking I might get rid of the loader if I can readjust to a smaller radius.

Re(1): 550 Steering

IP: 12.94.184.116 Posted on June 25, 2003 at 11:42:21 AM by Mike B

I don't believe that there is any factory designed way of shortening the turning radius, nor was there a special gear box for those tractors with a loader. Instead, two types of power steering were installed that used less turns of the wheel to accomplish what I think was the same radius. One way to "cheat" would be to modify (shorten by drilling) the front steering arms and remount the tie rod ends closer to the wheels, but this would only increase the turning force needed. Be careful whatever you do as the steering boxes can't handle much torque and fail often including broken sector teeth (or thrust bearings if you are lucky). They are difficult to find and expensive in any condition. The first thing to check is if the pitman arms on either side of the box go through a full sweep when turning left and right. If not, it is likely that the sector shafts and ball nut inside are mis-aligned. This is an easy fix once you have the box on the bench. And yes, you are correct, it is very tough to turn as it is with a manual steering box. Try putting a good sized counter weight on the back end which can help considerably. Or just take to loader off, especially if it is not needed that often.

Re(1): 550 Steering

IP: 63.155.197.117 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 03:21:14 PM by RockinB

The left tie rod should be 2&9/32 longer than the right, with 3/16 toe in

Re(1): 550 Steering

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 11:15:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The turning radius for a 550 with manual steering without brakes is 10 ft. or 9 ft. with brakes. These figures are calculated with a new tractor on a dry concrete surface. If your tractor does not meet these specs, I feel like you that someone has done some changing on it. You should get an Operator's Manual for it. It would tell you if you can readjust it and how to do it. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net to get a manual. Larry

880 Transmission Problem

IP: 63.163.213.242 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:22:45 AM by Steve Merritt

The bull gears on my 880 (helical gears) look like they are made from two pieces, an inner hub and outer gear. I'm not sure but it appears they are welded together is 4 to 6 spots on each side. Have you ever seen slippage between the two parts? If so, can they be repaired. Thanks.

Re(1): 880 Transmission Problem

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:58:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I have never seen slippage. I assume they can be repaired. I have some of these gears on hand. If you need one, email me: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

super 55 pto clutch assembly

IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:12:46 AM by Stu

I posted a URL photo to this question Larry. I have put my Super 55 PTO clutch back together after replacing the disks and the seals. You can see my pto clutch. Nice and clean now, it was all black. My question is in the final steps. Are the fiber disks supposed to be completely inside the clutch spider at all times? Should I make the adjustments so that they stay in side? And I dont know what stage to tighten the allen screw that holds the clutch to the shaft. Given that it was completely apart, how do you know where to re set that allen screw to the shaft? My manual does not cover this stage, only the undo part.

Re(1): super 55 pto clutch assembly

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:55:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they should be completely inside and should stay there. There is a notch in the shaft to seat the Allen screw into. After you get the clutch spider all the way in, the Allen screw should go in there and hold it in that position. Larry

Re(1): super 55 pto clutch assembly

IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 12:33:07 AM by Greg

The fiber disks must absolutely be completely inside the sipder drum or they will shear off. Somewhat recall the allen screw you're talking about (I did a 550 PTO rebuild). There should actually be two based on the tech. note. One serves as a jam nut. Will have to look at my book/notes. Put plenty of anti-seize on the adjusting nut. This is easy to adjust from beneath the tractor. Get it close and thn finish it off through the access port.

Waukesha Crank

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on June 22, 2003 at 08:10:30 PM by Jeremy in Ohio

Anyone ever heard of a part number x192211b It is a big counterbalanced thing, has a keyway and cotter pin. would like to find one

Re(1): Waukesha Crank

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:51:28 PM by Larry Harsin

My information does not show this being used on an Oliver tractor. However, it is a Waukesha number. A lot of Waukesha parts were used in engines other than Olivers.

Re(2): Waukesha Crank

IP: 152.163.253.8 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 06:57:15 PM by Original poster

Do you know how I could get ahold of that crank? I know it will work in the 88 motor, let me explain what I am working on. I am taking the 88 motor with the 880 rear because of the helical cut gears and am building a 5700 super farm pulling tractor to run ORVTPA, for more info on that go to www.orvtpa.com. I know for a fact that that crank will work in an oliver, and will work with the 880 rearend, there is also part number 192211 that does not come with the key way or cotter pin, but x192211b already comes machined, I would also need the rods and pistons that go with that crank, and how much all that would cost

Re(3): Waukesha Crank

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 09:25:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Waukesha sold the rights to these engines to Arrow. I would contact them. I believe they are in Tulsa OK. Sherry Schaefer would have this info. She is the Editor of the HPOCA Magazine and they advertise in there occasionally. Email her at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. I think there is an office for them in St. Louis also. Larry

valueof tractor

IP: 12.163.33.27 Posted on June 22, 2003 at 02:12:55 PM by donnawells

estimated of oliver 1750 diesel wide front end. approx. 30 years old. top condition.

Re(1): valueof tractor

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:47:34 PM by Larry Harsin

A ball park figure: $3000 - $4500. Larry

Steering Drift on 1600

IP: 66.82.9.35 Posted on June 22, 2003 at 01:49:06 PM by Phil Dybing

Hello Larry, I have a 1600 gas with wide front and power steering. During row crop work, the steering drifts to the right and I have to constantly correct by turning more to the left. I checked the steering while stationary and you can turn the steering wheel slowly to the left and the steered wheels remain stationary. When steering this same speed to the right, the wheels turn proportionally as they should. So my questions, could this be a bad seal in the steering cylinder, or do you suspect the steering valve itself needs repair? Also, do you know what company made the steering valve? Was it Vickers or Char-Lynn? Thanks for your help. Phil Dybing

Re(1): Steering Drift on 1600

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:46:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Check the blocking valve on the hydra-motor first. Jack the tractor up, and try to turn the wheels by taking hold of them and moving them (with the engine shut off!). If they stay straight and can't be turned, then your blocking valve and the steering cylinder are o.k. If it still does what you are talking about with the engine running (off the jack). The problem is most likely a bad steering hydra-motor. This is not an uncommon problem especially on a 1600. I would try to replace it with a good used one out of a 50 series (1650, 1750, 1850) tractor. The 50 series hydra-motor had some improvements over the 1600 hydra-motor. You can talk to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. to see if he has a good used one 800-320-6224 or talk to some salvage yards. Saginaw made the whole steering system. Larry

Re(2): Steering Drift on 1600

IP: 207.16.136.21 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 04:36:22 PM by Phil Dybing

Thanks for the info.

77 VALVE SLASH

IP: 66.133.189.15 Posted on June 22, 2003 at 06:50:02 AM by k Medchill

I AM FINALY PUTTING MY 77 TOGETHER AND WAS WOUNDERING WHAT THE CORRECT VALVE SLASH WOULD BE FOR THE INTAKE & EXAUST? THANKS IN ADVANCE

Re(1): 77 VALVE SLASH

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:35:49 PM by Larry Harsin

10 on intake and 18 on exhaust at room temp. Larry

Re(2): 77 VALVE SLASH

IP: 65.73.163.250 Posted on June 26, 2003 at 10:44:39 PM by k medchill

thank you for the help

1855

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on June 21, 2003 at 05:19:39 PM by matt mcferren

hi larry i have an 1855 dsl i have had to to some work on the hydraulics, but now they are working great and i really like the tractor. i would like to rebuild the tractor but alot of people have told me that those motors are not worth rebuilding. i was wondering if you thought the motor would hold up well if rebuilt or if i should look to repower.

Re(1): 1855

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:34:35 PM by Larry Harsin

If the engine is rebuildable, I would be in favor of you doing it. There are some upgrades that you can do that will make it better when you are overhauling the engine. Such as: installing new one-piece rod bushings & new rod bolts, balancing the internal engine parts, deepening the oil pan to give it more oil capacity, etc. Also, do not over fuel this engine to get more power than it should deliver. With these improvements, I think you can expect to get good results from your tractor without spending too much money. Larry

OLIVER 1800

IP: 209.132.164.48 Posted on June 21, 2003 at 02:38:57 PM by MARK RINGLER

I HAVE A OLIVER 1800C MODEL 38-1105 SERIAL# 136875 844 WITH A BAD TRANS. ///I HAVE A PARTS TTRACTOR OLIVER 1800 A MODEL#18 113 SERIAL#118969 886/// WILL ANY OR ALL GEARS BE ABLE TO INTER CHANGE ????//MARK

Re(1): OLIVER 1800

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 10:27:18 PM by Larry Harsin

No, some might, but mostly not. Get an 1800 Parts Book and an 1850 Parts Book and compare them and you will see. You can get them from Mary Ann. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): OLIVER 1800

IP: 209.132.164.61 Posted on June 24, 2003 at 07:23:50 PM by MARK RINGLER

CAN I SWAP THE TRAN. AND RAEND UNIT ALL IN ONE ??? MARK

Re(3): OLIVER 1800

IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on June 26, 2003 at 06:02:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will bolt up. Larry

1750 oliver

IP: 12.172.241.135 Posted on June 20, 2003 at 07:09:19 AM by elmer yale

hydralic oil leaking down in transmission internal leak only when you use the hydralic outlets

Re(1): 1750 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.68 Posted on June 23, 2003 at 11:08:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I am stumped. The most common problem on those 1750's was leakage around the draft control seal on the rod that goes through the bottom of the oil pan into the bull gear compartment. At this point, it would leak all the time. So I am somewhat mystified by your discription of the problem. The only 2 other possibilities would be a crack in the oil pan or a leaky seal on the pump itself. Larry

550 Turf Tires

IP: 198.26.122.13 Posted on June 19, 2003 at 08:02:12 PM by Terry Hoist

Larry, I measured the rim on my 550 and it is 28 " dia. by 13 1/2" wide. Are there different size turf tires that would fit this rim? Thanks for the help

Re(1): 550 Turf Tires

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on June 19, 2003 at 10:05:52 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You have to get the tires that fit your rims. With the 550, you had a choice of at least 3 different sizes of wheels. The tires I have came off a 550, but it had different size wheels than your's does. Larry

1655 fuel in oil

IP: 206.172.173.71 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 08:17:25 PM by scott

Hi Larry, my 1655 is getting fuel in the engine oil.I have replaced the liftpump and now want to replace seals on injection pump drive,my book says this can be done without removing pump. Just wondered how is easiest go through timing cover or remove pump.

Re(1): 1655 fuel in oil

IP: 67.2.242.2 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 08:51:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I would go through the timing cover and follow that procedure. Larry

1655 Diesel Piston and Sleeve Sets

IP: 67.0.80.12 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 07:28:06 PM by Dean Barker

Larry--What would be your choice for new piston and sleeve sets for a 1973 1655 diesel. Thanks.

Re(1): 1655 Diesel Piston and Sleeve Sets

IP: 67.2.242.2 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 08:49:47 PM by Larry Harsin

My first choice would be to go to AGCO to get it. I would try to stick with the original equipment if the cost isn't prohibitive. I think your tractor will have the best life expectancy and performance by sticking to the original equipment. Larry

Re(2): 1655 Diesel Piston and Sleeve Sets

IP: 67.0.85.109 Posted on June 19, 2003 at 06:58:22 AM by Dean Barker

Thanks Larry.

oil reservoirs

IP: 208.30.76.246 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 01:56:38 PM by Joe

I am fixing up a Oliver Super 55, spec # 15-0006, serial #19249-518. I can't seem to find the drain plug for the hydralic reservoir. I have pulled the three under the tractor to change out all the fluids but can't find one for the upper resevior. I was also wondering if I can fill all the reserviors with Cenex Qwiklift HTB, the label says it meets White/Oliver Q1826 HTF Type 55 requirments. Thanks for your time and effort, Joe

Re(1): oil reservoirs

IP: 67.2.242.2 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 08:47:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Your S55 was built in 1955. If you have the external valve to operate a cylinder, you disconnet a hose coupling and run the tractor to pump the oil out of the system. If you don't have an external valve, under the left side of the seat is a plug that is surrounded by 3 bolts. Remove that plug, hook on some tubing and run the tractor and it will pump the oil out. Either way, you pump it out with the tractor. While you are at it, you should change the filter on the hydraulic. The oil you talk about is acceptable for both the trans and the hydraulic. Larry

550 oliver

IP: 171.75.201.6 Posted on June 17, 2003 at 06:25:03 PM by Andy

Larry,where could i find a desent 550 oliver?thanks,Andy

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 07:13:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Antique Power magazine has good ads and lots of auctions listed. The HPOCA magazine is about the best. Larry

Re(2): 550 oliver

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 11:52:20 AM by Joe Shaffer

Where do you find these magazines???

Re(3): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.242.2 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 08:35:49 PM by Larry Harsin

You can subscribe to Antique Power. Their website is: www.antiquepower.com or you can phone: 888-760-8108. The HPOCA Magazine comes with your membership to the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Association. You can get a membership at the same place as they print both magazines etc. Larry

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 63.155.196.110 Posted on June 19, 2003 at 07:26:48 AM by RockinB

Have a 550 Diesel for sale: rockinb@uplinkusa.net

T-shirt or cap

IP: 209.132.168.165 Posted on July 2, 2003 at 09:13:36 PM by walter price

Where can I find Oliver logo clothing

Re(1): T-shirt or cap

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on July 3, 2003 at 11:25:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Several of the Collector Chapters sell T-shirts and hats. Some have denim shirts. Check with the Iowa Cornbelt Chapter at email: bigkbird@netins.net they sell all three things, or Lyle Dumont sells T-Shirts and denim shirts and hats at his museum. Contact him at email: oliver@lisco.com. Larry

550/super 66 head

IP: 206.176.217.55 Posted on June 17, 2003 at 03:31:23 PM by greg

Hi Larry, I am looking for a good cylinder head core for a super 66/660/550/. Don't need valves.Do you know if a diesel head will work? Thanks. Greg

Re(1): 550/super 66 head

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 07:10:38 AM by Larry Harsin

A diesel won't work on a gas tractor. I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-3230-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

1967 oliver 1250 tractor starter

IP: 12.21.155.76 Posted on June 17, 2003 at 01:54:35 PM by jodie tyus

i am looking for a starter for a 1967 oliver 1250 deisel tractor....they sure are hard to come by.

Re(1): 1967 oliver 1250 tractor starter

IP: 67.2.248.98 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 07:07:08 AM by Larry Harsin

Here are 2 places you can contact: Harold Wolfe at 423-581-5557 or Danny Bowes Website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

rider

IP: 206.131.12.176 Posted on June 16, 2003 at 10:03:53 PM by Aaron

We have a 73' hydro 125 Oliver rider with all attachments, and are wondering what it is worth, and where we can get it serviced. Not interested in selling at this point, but wondering how many are out there and what it is worth?

Re(1): rider

IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on June 16, 2003 at 10:41:06 PM by Larry Harsin

They made them only for a couple of years. They are highly collectible. They made a 75, a 105, a 125 and a 145. Look for a Ford lawn care dealer. The Olivers and Fords were made by Jacobson, so usually a Ford repairman can service an Oliver. We don't know how many they made. They are worth several thousand dollars usually. You have to have a good one and be in the right place at the right time. We heard of one that wasn't in good shape at all that brought $3000. Larry

550 Turf Tires

IP: 198.26.122.12 Posted on June 16, 2003 at 08:43:36 PM by Terry Hoist

Larry, Do you know where I might be able to find a pair of 13.6 - 26 turf tires for an oliver 550? Thanks for your assistance

Re(1): 550 Turf Tires

IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on June 16, 2003 at 10:32:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know where there is a pair that size. The ones I have are 16.9 x 24. Larry

noisy brakes

IP: 67.29.209.87 Posted on June 16, 2003 at 02:57:34 PM by steve

Larry, I just recently replaced the brake bands on my 77 row crop because they had a high pitched squeal about like disc brakes on a car. The drums were dry no oil or grease on them. The adjustment is pretty tight as I dont have to press very far on either pedal. But I still have that high pitch squeal everytime I apply either brake, hope you have an answer for me. Thanks Steve

Re(1): noisy brakes

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on June 16, 2003 at 09:15:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Don't worry about it. It is the nature of the beast!!!! :-) If they are not worn down to the rivets, I would leave them alone. If they are worn down, you'll have to put new linings in them. Larry

Re(2): noisy brakes

IP: 67.29.205.249 Posted on June 17, 2003 at 02:16:37 PM by steve

Larry, I have replaced the brake bands on both sides with new. My wife can hear the noise in the house when I am out behind the barn with tractor. Even the neighbors ask about the brake noise. Is there any adjustments other than the spline shaft and spline on the brake pedal itself??? P.S. It is a 49 model. Thanks, Steve

Re(3): noisy brakes

IP: 67.2.242.2 Posted on June 18, 2003 at 08:54:10 PM by Larry Harsin

There's a set screw on each side that is adjustable. It screws up through the casting up to the brake band. Try adjusting them. I believe it is covered in the Operator's Manual. The brakes should not be dragging when you are not using them. Perhaps this adjustment will help. Larry

Re(4): noisy brakes

IP: 12.36.94.217 Posted on June 19, 2003 at 10:31:02 PM by Tim

On my 1949 Oliver 88. I had a set of bands relined at a parts store/machine shop. After I reinstalled them, they squealed something fearce. I went back and they informed me it was in the material that was used.I would need to remove and give a good coating of specifically WD-40.Something about a high silicone content.I did and they quit squealing and work great,even after lubed, go figure.It has been over three years now. Good Luck

1365 Oliver

IP: 24.169.222.178 Posted on June 13, 2003 at 01:45:39 PM by Ken

Hello, my 1365 serial# is 729383,(1971-1975?) Can you tell me the year? I also want to confirm that the Fiat 211ci motor was decent, but known to smoke a small amount and smell like unburnt diesel fuel at idle. thanks!

Re(1): 1365 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on June 13, 2003 at 05:58:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1365 was built in 1975. I don't know the answer to your question. I have never worked on a 1365. Not many Fiat's were sold in this area. Larry

Re(2): 1365 Oliver

IP: 216.201.29.120 Posted on June 14, 2003 at 09:19:07 PM by J. Schwiebert

Larry : I worked for a dealer about the same time you did, 1960-1976. This is not Fiat country either, but we had very little trouble with the 12 & 1355 &65 series tractors we sold. Some are still around.Is that 2655 you have equipped with the optional 800 cubic inch L. P. engine?

Re(3): 1365 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on June 15, 2003 at 05:55:09 AM by Larry Harsin

No. It is a diesel. Larry

Re(1): 1365 Oliver

IP: 68.155.12.43 Posted on June 19, 2003 at 09:29:34 PM by George Steadman

The motor in ours has been exceptional(probably blow tommorrow), it does smoke when first started and smells terrible but it works well and gets great economy. My 02 cents worth.

about 1900 tractor on Ebay

IP: 67.73.132.64 Posted on June 12, 2003 at 09:58:10 PM by ned

There is a 1900 MFD tractor on Ebay. It's transmision is stuck in third gear the owner said it is a three hour job to fix. my shop manual say's that depending what it is it could be a major job. Larry could you give me a guess how big or small of job it could be and a estimate of value now and fixed. Also people have told me the turning radius of the 1900 fwd was fairly wide and they are hard to get around with. Wanted to use around farm is that pratical or is standard wide front a better idea.

Re(1): about 1900 tractor on Ebay

IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on June 13, 2003 at 06:30:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Just sitting here, I would opt to it being more of a major job than not, otherwise, the seller would be repairing it. I can't say value. Value has so many variables. I wouldn't want to spend much on a tractor that is going to have a major outlay of money to fix. It doesn't turn as short, but I wouldn't say it isn't practical. The MFD is a good unit, but it could be very expensive to repair this tractor. I would opt for looking for a unit in better condition. Larry

88 front end

IP: 155.91.6.71 Posted on June 12, 2003 at 12:55:25 AM by Parker

I am looking to put a wide front on my currently narrow front manual steering 1949 model 88. Will any wide front off another 88 or other model fit? What should I look for or stay away from? Would like to trade my narrow front, do you have anything? Thanks for your time!

Re(1): 88 front end

IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on June 12, 2003 at 08:11:15 PM by Larry Harsin

The wide fronts with manual steering from the 77 up through the 880 will fit. I have a WF that will fit your tractor. If you are interested, email me at cobalt@rconnect.com. Larry

serial #

IP: 67.217.167.205 Posted on June 11, 2003 at 01:01:18 PM by Don Varnnes

have a 66 industrial #482165c6 when was it made ?

Re(1): serial #

IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on June 11, 2003 at 09:35:01 PM by Larry Harsin

The closest I can come is that it was made after 1952. In 1952 they used serial numbers 462256 - 462405 on the 66 Industrial. Beginning in 1953, they used a different numbering system that included several models of Olivers. I don't believe there is anyway to unscramble them. Sometimes there is a casting date on the under side of the transmission (cast into the metal). This would be close to the date of the tractor, if you have this. Larry

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