"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mar., 2002 Archives


Rated Horsepower

IP: 4.21.92.3 Posted on March 28, 2002 at 06:27:33 PM by Steve Mefford I have a 66 RC, ss#426273C66C. As near as I can find it was made in 1951, and has the 4cyl. gas engine. Do you know the rated horsepower? Thank you!

Re(1): Rated Horsepower

IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on March 28, 2002 at 09:19:05 PM by Larry Harsin Your 66 was built in 1951. The horsepower is 21 on the drawbar and 25 on the belt. Larry

Oliver 550 IP: 64.12.101.178 Posted on March 28, 2002 at 04:12:59 PM by Virgil Leach Hi Larry, Really enjoy your site. Got a 59 550 ; tore up some gears in both bevel pinion shaft and counter shaft.Got things tore down to removing the shaft clamping nut. The problem is ;someone has been in there before me stumbling around and buggered the nut some.Not totally ruined yet.I would like to aquire the proper spanner wrench for the job. Is there an after market supplier for these wrenches. I could make something but not real sure what the wrench looks like. Any help will be greatly apprieciated. Thanks VP

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on March 28, 2002 at 09:16:57 PM by Larry Harsin I suggest that you get an I&T Shop Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net The manual you will need is O - 11. It will tell you what you need to know. You can get a spanner wrench from Owatonna Tool Co. at Owatonna MN. You want wrench number ED3434. Larry

Oliver 770 Seat

IP: 66.212.4.152 Posted on March 27, 2002 at 07:24:43 PM by Mike Renner Hi Larry, I have a 1965 Oliver 770. It came with a pan-style seat, but I would like to get a padded seat for it just like you could as optional equipment. I also need the rubber torsion springs and bushings for the frame of the seat. Could you please give me an idea on where to start looking for these items. I appreciate your help very much. Thank you, Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver 770 Seat

IP: 209.163.7.89 Posted on March 27, 2002 at 07:53:06 PM by Larry Harsin Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 770 Seat

IP: 216.178.90.158 Posted on March 27, 2002 at 08:27:36 PM by Mike Renner Larry, Thank you for your help. Mike Renner

77 switch

IP: 216.138.55.85 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 04:40:39 PM by oliver farmer i would like to know if i can take off a series 3? hydrolic unit and replace it with a trip lift unit. do i have to go into the trans. and change gears or just change to units? thanks

Re(1): 77 switch

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 06:16:18 PM by Larry Harsin Yes, you'll have to go into the trans. You'll have to install the old K616 shaft, which is longer, to drive the power lift unit. Larry

Re(2): 77 switch

IP: 216.138.55.88 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 08:06:17 PM by oliver farmer thanks larry for the feed back.

Oliver 550 PS Specifications

IP: 12.78.183.137 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 12:37:42 AM by Mike B Hello Larry, Perhaps you or one of the message board readers can help. I am presently trying to rebuild the Char-lynn PS unit on my 1959 550 Oliver. It is the type that is direct coupled to the steering box (part S105-D). Trouble is, I am missing the input and output shafts inside of the gearmotor (someone had created a shunt shaft). One of the needed "dogbones" has splines on both sides, the other has a spline and a slot on the other. I have researched and spoke to several sources including Force America, but none can provide detailed specifications such as the length and number of and diameter of the splines of the original parts so I can try to match them with modern parts. Thus, I am hopeful that someone has these old parts laying around, or has some direct experience in crossing them with modern parts. Any help would be extremely appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 550 PS Specifications

IP: 207.16.136.22 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 02:05:47 PM by Greg S. Try Korves Bros. or McFarlane's. Both have sites on the internet.

Re(1): Oliver 550 PS Specifications

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 06:12:56 PM by Larry Harsin I have never been into one of these. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may have some of this stuff or will probably know who does. If you need Korves Bros. website as Greg suggests, it is: www.korvesoliver.com Larry

1465 3-PT Parts!

IP: 199.148.107.106 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 11:15:24 AM by richard hoffpauir "Ole Bessie" needs a little work. Managed to break the internal linkage on the three point lift. The linkage, which looks to have some type of set screw, broke in three pieces. When it broke the three point actually rose to a level higher than normal. Can anyone tell me where to find parts for this 1465 Oliver. I don't think I can even have the part machined. Any suggestions on finding parts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): 1465 3-PT Parts!

IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 12:52:16 AM by Larry Harsin For parts, contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224. Another possibility is Maibach Tractor at 216-939-4192. Larry

Head Bolt Socket

IP: 209.132.168.139 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 10:44:02 AM by jld Believe I have seen an 3/4" offset socket that lets you torque the cyl head bolts on a Fleetline engine without removing the rocker shaft. I've been looking around for one but no luck as yet. Do you have one? If so, could you provide the brand and possibly the part #. Thanks.

Re(1): Head Bolt Socket

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on March 26, 2002 at 05:31:19 PM by Larry Harsin My 3/4" offset socket is a Snap-On. Order number S 9513 C. Larry

1755 overhaul cost

IP: 207.177.89.161 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 06:40:22 PM by alan larry, i have a 1755 diesel with just less than 3000 hrs. getting alot of oil smoke out of blow-by and won't start without pulling. it's obvious to me it needs an overhaul but what's your opinion on what it will need to have done to it and approximate cost including labor? i'd like to keep the tractor if i can as i don't put many hrs. on it in a year's time (less than 100) but don't know if it's economically the smart thing to do. thanks for any advice you might offer. alan

Re(1): 1755 overhaul cost

IP: 205.188.199.156 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 08:56:10 PM by Don I'd say go for it. had justa top overhaul done on it along with A LOT of fuel pump work that needed to be done, and it was about $2000. Most of it was because of the primary fuel pump and injection pump/injectors. Now if it had good batteries it would start up right away with the engine heater plugged in. Too bad that tonight when i was done moving the manure pile i took a short cut that ended up snapping another axel pin(3rd time a pin snapped, 1sttime on this side) and snapped the tie-rod ball joint by the spindle. now i gotta figure out a way to get it out of the mud and ice to fix it. MY HEAD IS SPINNING, but don't seem to be going very far. i guess i got a few days to figure it out before i have a chance to go in after her. Don

Re(1): 1755 overhaul cost

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 11:02:55 PM by Larry Harsin It would be my guess that it is in the need of an overhaul. I would say that the overhaul kit would be in the neighborhood of $1000 and the labor would also be in the neighborhood of $1000. This will be the price for an inframe overhaul, without having to remove the engine. This price will probably take care of the bearings, the sleeves and pistons, the grinding of the valves and checking the injectors. If the crank shaft is bad and has to be reground, you can add another $1000. Hopefully, you won't have to do that. Larry

pto

IP: 64.12.103.166 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 12:36:43 AM by alan i have two pto units and was wondering if you have any idea what they are off off, they have a side casting number of H 1570 and have oliver paint on them , with the engageing lever in the middle of the top, thanks

Re(1): pto

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 10:56:55 PM by Larry Harsin Those are for Oliver 60's. Larry

550 PTO spider gear

IP: 207.16.136.22 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 12:17:37 AM by Greg S. Per my other post "550 PTO clutch removal" I've finally, with Larry's excellent advice, been successful in removing the clutch assembly. Now I need to get the spider gear off to restore it and can't quite make out the parts because of the rust. Manual suggests a retaining nut and two oil seals. There are no seals on the backside of the clutch hub. Seems there is one seal on the PTO shaft, but almost seems that it's part of the nut as well. Any help in clarifying that would be great. I'm assuming the spider gear is not threaded onto the shaft as well, can you confirm that? Do I have to make a tool (~4 tab spanner) to remove the retaining nut or is there a place to buy one? Can get heat in there, but not a drift and I'm not certain I'll be able to remove with pneumatic and spanner tool. Is this nut pricey or shall I cut it along with the oil seal(s)? This is my last major stumbling block. From here on out it's downhill. Would like to order parts soon and per your advice I should contact yourself. I have over a dozen parts would email be better? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 550 PTO spider gear

IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 10:55:11 PM by Larry Harsin There is a seal behind the PTO clutch spider. There are also 2 "O" rings behind the clutch spider. You will have to make a spanner wrench or otherwise use a punch to get that spanner nut off. I know of no place to buy a spanner wrench. It's best not to destroy the nut but you may have to. I don't know the cost of a new one. The spider (or the drum) is not threaded onto the shaft. I believe it is splined onto it. I don't have any of the parts that you will need. Get them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800 320-6224. It would be a good idea to ask Tom for his opinion about removing the spanner nut and the cost of replacing it before you do it. Larry

misterious tractor

IP: 199.174.220.53 Posted on March 23, 2002 at 10:32:01 PM by mike lawson I just aquired an Oliver...my first. I can't find an I.D. tag on it; the best i can do is the motor #: 180220E iL100B? Any ideas on year and model? Its got a square adjustable front axle, 3-point, but no grill or decals.

Re(1): misterious tractor

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on March 24, 2002 at 01:41:06 PM by Larry Harsin I think you have a Super 55. For further verification, send a photo to: Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville, IA 51334. The serial number tag on these tractors was located on the side of the tractor mainframe near the footrests. Larry

1250

IP: 209.209.193.128 Posted on March 23, 2002 at 08:44:11 PM by billy brumfield Larry I have a 1250 I would like to have a manuel but I don't know which 1250 it is. The Model # is 125 22 45 the serial # is 729 580. Could you tell me the manuel I need . Thanks For Your Help.

Re(1): 1250

IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on March 23, 2002 at 09:24:23 PM by Larry Harsin Your 1250 is a 1967 model. If you give Mary Ann Townsend your serial number, she will know which manual you should have. hpocacc@fiai.net Larry

Oliver 1600

IP: 206.152.102.161 Posted on March 23, 2002 at 08:18:19 PM by Ken Butler Hi, I have an Oliver 1600 diesel that runs fine except when in 6th gear. When you are running down the road it will suddenly blow black smoke out and lose power rapidly. Its's almost like you stood on the brakes real hard. It will pull the engine right down to the point of killing it if you don't put in the clutch. It runs fine in all other gears and will operate a grinder mixer with no problem. It only does it in 6th gear. I have replaced the fuel filter. It also has a high pitched whine when running that sounds like the hydraulics. Everything seems to be where it is supppose to be and jiggleing the controls do not seem to have any effect. If you shut the engine down to an idle the whine will stop. I have checked the hydraulic fluid level and it is ok. I'm stumped on this one also. It seems to be able to lift the hay bales to feed the sheep with no problems, but the steering will be kind of stiff if you don't keep the engine running at a decent speed. Any ideas would be appreciated VR Ken Butler

Re(1): Oliver 1600

IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on March 23, 2002 at 09:21:47 PM by Larry Harsin There is a good chance that the gears are binding up in the transmission. Check the level of the oil in the transmission and differential. It uses 80-90 transmission grease and the test plug is on the right rear of the final drive housing, behind the right rear axle. Also, it could be that the transmission lube pump might not be working. Refer to your Operator's Manual and check the lubrication circuits and filter. If you need an Operator's Manual, contact Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Hdq. hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry

oliver super 77

IP: 216.182.20.142 Posted on March 22, 2002 at 03:33:07 PM by Jim Between 1954 and 1958 .. I would like to know if there were any changes in the physical apperance of the tractors or do you actually have to go look at the serial #'s ?

Re(1): oliver super 77

IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on March 22, 2002 at 05:57:28 PM by Larry Harsin The early Supers had a battery door like the fleetlines. The later Supers had a battery door that was larger to accomodate a larger battery and was fastened with 4 screws. Also the later Supers had Oliver embossed on the fenders where the earlier Supers did not. Approx. 2 years of each style. The early Supers had green wheels and the later Supers had red wheels. However, to get the actual year, you should go by the serial number as other things may have been changed. Larry

Oliver 70

IP: 24.48.17.130 Posted on March 22, 2002 at 11:17:16 AM by Dan Supplee Would rear fenders for an Oliver 70 have Oliver embossed into the fender or would these be for a later series Thanks, Dan

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on March 22, 2002 at 02:02:37 PM by Larry Harsin Those are later. The late Super series tractors had those. They were continued through the 3 digit series. Larry

Oliver 99

IP: 66.181.128.14 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 07:21:30 PM by Bob Adamson Larry, I am having a hard time finding a head gasket for a 1948 oliver 4 cly. 99. Would you know where we might find one? Also what should the head be torqued at? Is it a waukesha. Thanks.Bob

Re(1): Oliver 99

IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 08:40:44 PM by Larry Harsin Contact Ollie Schaefer about where to find a head gasket. olliesch@papadocs.com Your engine is a Waukesha. I don't know what the head should be torqued at. Ask Ollie. He will know. Larry

Oliver 88 Diesel

IP: 216.163.54.20 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 07:20:38 PM by Michael Larry, Awhile back I e-mailed you about this tractor and it being hard to start. Could you tell me where to get some energy cells for this tractor the serial number indicates that it is a 1954? Also what temp thermostat should it have. Thanks, Michael

Re(1): Oliver 88 Diesel

IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 08:34:56 PM by Larry Harsin Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl for energy cells. 800-320-6224 It should have a 180 degree thermostat. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 Diesel

IP: 216.163.53.206 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 08:46:51 PM by Michael Thanks Larry, Do you have any idea of the cost??? Thanks again, Michael

Re(3): Oliver 88 Diesel

IP: 209.163.7.14 Posted on March 22, 2002 at 07:10:07 AM by Larry Harsin No, I don't. If he has used ones, they won't be so high, but I believe new ones are sort of spendy. He has an 800 number, you'll just have to check. Larry

1930 Oliver / Hart-Parr Row Crop

IP: 207.44.56.96 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 07:11:09 PM by Larry I Larry. I have an 1930 Oliver/Hart-Parr Row Crop with a serial # 100157. I can locate all the parts I need to restore it. Things like fenders, hood, manafolds, and gaskets. The tractor is 72 years old this week! It has no paint on it at all, right now it looks like your Thanksgiving turkey right out of the oven. I am looking for an opinion and some input from your readers. Should I restore it and paint it the proper color green or leave it the rust color it is now. Some people tell me I will lose the antique value if I paint it. But I like paint better than rust. Maybe you and your readers would like to discuss this. I like your site and read it almost every day. Thanks Larry

Re(1): 1930 Oliver / Hart-Parr Row Crop

IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 08:31:59 PM by Larry Harsin It is strictly up to the person who is doing it. I like to leave them original as much as possible, but if it has completely gone to rust, I'd probably paint it. (Sandy prefers them painted.) :-) I appreciate a nice paint job, but I appreciate also seeing a tractor in it's original state. Larry

Oliver 1950-T

IP: 206.23.246.79 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 12:22:59 AM by Brad I am almost finished with my restoration and I am wondering about how much my tractor would be worth. I don't won't to sell but I would just like to have an idea about it. It is a 1968 Oliver 1950-T. The engine has been rebuilt and the turbo has just recently been overhauled. Tires are all practically new. The paint looks like it did when it rolled off the factory. All guages work, lights, everything on tractor. If you would give a figure I'd appreciate it Larry. Thanks Brad

Re(1): Oliver 1950-T

IP: 209.163.7.58 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 05:30:10 PM by Larry Harsin A tractor like that all restored, give or take $1000, I'd say it's worth in the neighborhood of $10,000. Larry

Super 55 Oil Pump

IP: 209.254.245.232 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 06:39:37 PM by Tom Somehow in the process of freshening up my Super 55 I managed to lose the two little vanes and spring inside the oil pump. Does anyone sell these parts in a oil pump rebuild kit? Does anyone have a used oil pump they want to get rid of? I replaced the oil pump a year ago so I hesitate to get another due to the cost. Thanks in advance

Re(1): Super 55 Oil Pump

IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 09:49:12 PM by Larry Harsin Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Imp. 800-320-6224 He just might have vanes and springs. Larry

specifications

IP: 206.159.156.109 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 06:10:33 PM by Tom Bean Im working on a hercules engineJXD Model BGSH serial 9C160. I need the valves clearance setting for the exhaust, intake. Do you know where I can find these? Any information you can give me I would be grateful. Thanks !

Re(1): specifications

IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 09:47:05 PM by Larry Harsin Contact Landis Zimmerman at: ZOC@att.net He is the expert on Cletracs. Larry

Re(1): specifications

IP: 208.10.124.163 Posted on March 21, 2002 at 12:00:39 AM by Larry from Maryland The book i have says see plate on the side of the engine. But most of the other similar engines say intake.010 and exhaust .016.

oliver 770 manual

IP: 24.222.57.20 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 05:55:49 AM by Scott Cudmore I have an old oliver 770 and the manual was burned in a house fire. I'd love to get a manual or a copy of one. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

Re(1): oliver 770 manual

IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 06:45:17 AM by Larry Harsin You can get an Operator's Manual at Oliver Headquarters in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net and tell her what you need. Larry

Oliver 80

IP: 152.163.204.184 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 09:31:10 PM by Chad Carlson Hi Larry, My dad is putting the finishing touches on the restoring of a 1947 Oliver 80 Row Crop. We are a little stumped on one thing though, what color should the paint be on the word "Oliver" on the very front of the tractor. We have seen it in red and yellow, but my dad is pretty sure that is supposed to be "Caterpillar" yellow. Do you know for sure what color we should paint it? Thanks, Chad Carlson, Altoona, IA

Re(1): Oliver 80

IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 10:54:59 PM by Larry Harsin I think they should be yellow. If you scratch through to the paint that's on there, I think it will show you. Larry

Oliver 80

IP: 205.188.199.163 Posted on March 19, 2002 at 08:05:18 PM by Chad Carlson Larry, Thanks for the input on the Oliver 80 and the yellow paint. Apparently my dad had Bill Kane call you and ask you the same question. Dad is the retired Coop manager in Prairie City and he drinks coffee with Bill out at the shop where a lot of restoration work is going on. Fortunately Dad is bringing a little class to the shop with the Oliver. Thanks again, Chad Carlson

Re(1): Oliver 80

IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 06:42:26 AM by Larry Harsin Glad to hear from you. Larry

HORSEPOWER

IP: 64.246.2.173 Posted on March 19, 2002 at 06:34:47 PM by ROLAND ARRISOLA I PURCHASED A OLIVER 1850 AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT THE HORSE POWER THE TRACTOR HAS, HERE ARE THE MODEL AND SERIAL #'S. MODEL #285-24230 SERIAL #192 278-427

Re(1): HORSEPOWER

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on March 19, 2002 at 07:23:48 PM by Larry Harsin Your 1850 was built in 1967. It is certified to have at least 92 horsepower. Larry

oliver 60 owners manual

IP: 208.155.75.4 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 07:46:22 PM by Laikens need owers manual and wiring diagram of the oliver 60 tractor.

Re(1): oliver 60 owners manual

IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 10:51:26 PM by Larry Harsin You can get an Operator's Manual for your 60 from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net. There will be a wiring diagram in it. Larry

tire & wheel sizes 66 Orchard

IP: 64.197.152.101 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 07:38:26 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake Larry,I've removed the way-oversized rear tires/wheels from my 66 Orchard.[14.2 X 26]tires and the wheels are at least 12 X 26 rims. They had to cut out some of the inner fender braces to make the tire lugs clear. Do you have any specks for the right wheel/tire sizes. Thanks, Tom Tom in R.I.

Re(1): tire & wheel sizes 66 Orchard

IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on March 19, 2002 at 08:08:05 AM by Larry Harsin Oliver shows wheels for an Orchard 66 to mount a 10" or 11" tire, the rims will be 9" or 10" wide on a wheel that is 24" tall. They also a 12" width tire on a wheel 26" tall with a rim 10" or 11" wide. Larry

Re(2): tire & wheel sizes 66 Orchard

IP: 64.197.151.210 Posted on March 19, 2002 at 07:29:27 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake Thanks Larry. the info is most helpful.Tom

manuals

IP: 24.161.25.26 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 01:11:17 PM by keith I am interested in service manual for the 550, which manual would you recemend the operators manual or the shop manual.

Re(1): manuals

IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 10:47:35 PM by Larry Harsin I reccommend that you get them both. You should get an Oliver 550 Operator's Manual. I think an I & T Shop Manual will be good enough and cheaper. You can get them both from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry

Oliver 88 diesel

IP: 168.216.124.199 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 08:05:16 AM by Brandon Howell Hey Larry. I have decided to hold off on Overhauling my 77 in lew of a what i think is a great deal. I have the oppurtunity to buy an Oliver 88 diesel tractor for $750. The only problem is that it has a knock. It is either the rod bearings or the 2 x 3 inch whole in the bell housing. The oliver is ugly and has an after market wide front like the one used one Farmalls. What is your advice to me about this machine. It does run it just has the knock. Can i get oversized rod bearings? For the 88 and new manifolds? Thanks ahead of time. Brandon Howell Charleston WV

Re(1): Oliver 88 diesel

IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 10:43:53 PM by Larry Harsin There are some undersize rod bearing available. If it runs and is fairly complete, it is worth $750. Your knock could be a bad wrist pin bushing or a broken piston. It could be broken rings. I have a manifold for an 88 diesel. Email me if you want it. Larry

Oliver 66RC

IP: 12.13.248.3 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 07:33:55 AM by Pete Peterson Larry, I have a 66RC with the power lift. I was wondering if the hydraulic units from a 77 would fit it or is there one for a 66? Do you have one and how much?

Re(1): Oliver 66RC

IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 10:39:08 PM by Larry Harsin I do not have one. They are different from a 77 hydraulic unit. You might check with Doug Johnson to see if he has one. dougolpt@cnsinternet.com. Larry

combine

IP: 152.163.206.206 Posted on March 17, 2002 at 08:56:31 PM by nick i have found a oliver sp model 25 combine but don't know how to work it? could you help me? how do i drive it?

Re(1): combine

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 07:05:44 AM by Larry Harsin I would reccommend that you email Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Headquarters in Charles City IA at: hpocacc@fiai.net Get an Operator's Manual for your combine from her, and it will tell you everything you need to know. Larry

1465

IP: 67.225.118.23 Posted on March 17, 2002 at 07:05:41 PM by Matt I need to know pto hp of 1465 Oliver Thanks.

Re(1): 1465

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 07:01:51 AM by Larry Harsin It is approx. 70 horsepower. Larry

1800 Oliver engine

IP: 64.12.104.37 Posted on March 17, 2002 at 06:07:30 PM by sam Larry I would like to know if any other engine will interchange. I have a 1800 Oliver six cyclender gas. Thank you!!

Re(1): 1800 Oliver engine

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 07:00:41 AM by Larry Harsin Yes. A 1650 or 1655 engine would bolt in. A 1750 or 1755 engine would bolt in. The 1750 or 1755 would be the least problem to hook up, as far as the drive line and the radiator hoses etc. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Oliver engine

IP: 205.188.197.161 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 09:16:10 AM by sam thanks for your information!!

oliver 550 Governor

IP: 209.240.222.131 Posted on March 16, 2002 at 10:14:44 PM by Peter I removed the governor to replace the bushings on the shaft. When I did, the bronze bushing fell into the timing chain cover. An Oliver mechanic told me not to worry as it would fall into the pan and not do any damage. Is this correct? And if not, would I need to pull the pan or timing chain cover? Thanks! Peter

Re(1): oliver 550 Governor

IP: 209.163.7.12 Posted on March 17, 2002 at 06:40:21 AM by Larry Harsin That is correct. You need not worry about it. Larry

Clutch on 1650 Won't Release

IP: 152.163.194.203 Posted on March 16, 2002 at 10:34:29 AM by Bill Brandt Larry: My brother with the 1650 diesel had a little incident the other day. Seems he was backing out the carport, stepped on the clutch pedal and she kept on backing up. Just about put his Jeep Cherokee on the bale spears. He got it stopped by pulling the fuel stop. The clutch will not release. Do you have any suggestions as to what could be wrong, other than the clutch just being gone?

Re(1): Clutch on 1650 Won't Release

IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on March 16, 2002 at 11:49:47 AM by Larry Harsin It could be one of several things. A clutch lining may have come loose and doubled up in there. Or the throwout bearing has gone through the fingers. Or something broke in the pressure plate so it doesn't release. You are going to have to tear it down. I would reccommend that when you go to get parts for this job, I would buy all new parts instead of rebuilt. Larry

Re(1): Clutch on 1650 Won't Release

IP: 66.43.193.206 Posted on March 17, 2002 at 10:22:16 PM by gary Bill-i would visually check the condition of the throwout fork, throwout bearing,and pressure plate levers by removing the inspection plate on top of the clutch housing-use a mirror and light-gary

oliver 1250

IP: 206.228.243.96 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:37:48 PM by michael mccloud tractor is getting some moisture on inside of oil cap, this dosenot seem normal any ideas of what could be wrong

Re(1): oliver 1250

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:54:05 PM by Larry Harsin The thermostat is probably not working to warm the engine up to drive that moisture out. Larry

HOOD

IP: 67.217.167.112 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 06:31:43 PM by DON VARNES DOES A ROW CROP HOOD FIT A IND TRACTOR 66 YEAR 1950 1954 ? LUCKY

Re(1): HOOD

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:52:24 PM by Larry Harsin Yes, they are all the same. Larry

no turn over engine

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 04:04:20 PM by polk crawler after having the Herc engine on the OC3 up and running a lot, suddenly it would not turn over more than once or twice, never start; had starter completedly rebuilt and it needed the job done; reinstalled it this AM, engine still won't move; bypassed the starter switch thinking maybe it was bad; still no start; batt is brand new, fully charged; is problem electrical or am I missing something real simple? appreciate any advice. Thanks PC

Re(1): no turn over engine

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:51:16 PM by Larry Harsin Try to turn the engine manually by hand. You may have a bearing siezed up or a scored piston. Larry

Re(2): no turn over engine

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 11:37:33 PM by polk craawler turned engine over manually, heard mag impulse click; still no response; is it possible old cables between batt, starter switch and starter are so internally corroded current isn't getting thru? OC3 is a '53 model, I suppose cables are OEM PC

Re(3): no turn over engine

IP: 209.163.7.93 Posted on March 16, 2002 at 06:46:00 AM by Larry Harsin That is very possible. Your starter switch may be bad also. Larry

Re(4): no turn over engine

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on March 18, 2002 at 06:56:47 PM by polk crawler can turn engine by hand; removed plugs to relieve all compression; starter still will not respond; had mechanic who did the rebuild, (best ag tractor repair shop in the county)check the starter again; he took it apart to check his work, just called and said he could find nothing wrong with it. tested it under load and it was OK BUT..I get no response out of it; bypassed all cables, starter switch etc, direct from fully charged battery to starter; I see fan blade/belt move maybe 1/2 inch evidence starter has engaged but engine will not turn over. What is my next move? Sorry to keep bothering you but am getting a little desparate and discoured. PC

Re(5): no turn over engine

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on March 20, 2002 at 10:26:19 AM by polk crawler Larry: Cause was traced to faulty battery I bought new 1-16-2002. Test showed it was delivering less than 50% of cranking amps needed to turn the engine over. Wish I had checked batt first and saved myself the cost of a starter rebuild but..never have to dink with the starter again. Thanks PC

Manufcturer's Numbers/dates/models

IP: 195.147.147.7 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 03:23:59 PM by Tony Hooton I am compiling a website and wish to develop the page on tractor registration with dtes, models and manufactures numbers and models. Can you help?

Re(1): Manufcturer's Numbers/dates/models

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:47:39 PM by Larry Harsin I don't have the time to devote to this project. You will have to get books on this subject. There are lots of them. Larry

Re(2): Manufcturer's Numbers/dates/models

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on March 19, 2002 at 08:49:46 AM by polk crawler Go to YTMag website; in menus on LH side you will find plenty of sources for the information you want. Good luck. PC

1265 Oliver

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 11:49:46 AM by Chuck Griffith I am looking at a 1265 Oliver with a loader this afternoon. I am not familiar with these newer Oliver (Fiat) tractors, other than most people say that one would have trouble getting parts. I have found a company in Canada that is marketing a "Universal" tractor, that is supposedly the exact same thing. Do you know much about these? It is a clean tractor with only 2000 hours on it. The loader and bucket are in good shape as well. Any insight would be appreciated. I really do like your website! Thanks.

Re(1): 1265 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:45:01 PM by Larry Harsin The 1265 was introduced in 1971 and was built til 1975. This same tractor was manufactured as the Minneapolis-Moline G-350. The engine was 3.94 x 4.33 bore stroke. Displacement was 158.1 cubic inch. I don't know anything about the Universal tractor. Larry

oliver continental cab

IP: 65.161.160.183 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 09:12:19 AM by Darrel we have a 1950 T with a oliver continental cab we are looking for a filter for the air intake of the cab do you have anything like this or have a part # dimensions are 33" long 3 3/4 " wide and 7/8" thick thank you

Re(1): oliver continental cab

IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 10:38:55 PM by Larry Harsin I don't have anything like this. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may be able to help you. Larry

1850 pto brake and front wheel width adjustments

IP: 66.43.193.171 Posted on March 14, 2002 at 10:09:43 PM by gary nuhn Larry - My 1850 PTO will not stop turning. Adjusting the linkeage to the lever (right hand) will not completely stop PTO rotation. I see no "brake" in the exploded view of the Pto in my IT manual. How do I adjust the brake? The clutch works fine. Also I have been unable to adust the front tire tread width (wide front end) it apparently has rusted. What do you recommend? Thanks!!! Gary

Re(1): 1850 pto brake and front wheel width adjustments

IP: 209.163.7.49 Posted on March 15, 2002 at 07:24:23 AM by Larry Harsin On the PTO clutch, it has a big washer in it that acts as a brake. When the lever is in the "off" position, it has to be locked back tightly. The linkage adjustment is what you do to accompolish this. If it cannot be adjusted to stop it from turning, you may have to install new clutch plates in the PTO as they may be warped. On the tire tread width, you will have to "Heat and Beat"!! Heat up the outer tube of the wide front with a torch then take a big hammer and pound it to knock the rust loose. This can be a big job. It takes a lot of hard work and a lot of patience. Larry

REBUILD

IP: 207.218.204.10 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 10:23:26 AM by KIM HELLO LARRY WHAT IS YOUR OPINION IF I PULL THE HEAD AND OIL PAN TO REPLACE THE RINGS ONLY AND GET BY WITH THAT THE ENGINE DOENT HAVE ANY KNOCKS AND THE SLEEVES LOOK GOOD. WHAT IS THE RUN OUT ON THE SLEEVES AND HOW DO I TEST THAT. I DONT HAVE ANY BLOW BY EITHER, SO COULD THE VALVES CAUSE A LOW COMPRESSION READING IF NOT ADJUSTED RIGHT! THE OIL PRESSURE IS A STEADY 30 PSI. GLAD TO SEE YOUR BACK!! THANKS KIM

Re(1): REBUILD

IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 09:03:25 PM by Larry Harsin Go ahead and tear it down and start looking for wear. I feel that there is a good chance that you will find some broken rings or some badly worn top ring grooves in your pistons. The run out or taper in the sleeves can be determined by inserting a feeler guage between the piston and the sleeve. If you find more than .004 taper from top to bottom, the sleeves have excessive wear. Yes, the valves could cause a low compression reading if not adjusted right. We enjoyed our trip, missed some bad weather and are glad to be back home. Larry

1800 hydrualics

IP: 216.106.45.60 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 09:32:36 PM by doug I have a 1800c that has the later style hydrualic pump. Is there a way to tie my loader hydrualics directly to the pump without going through the remote valves? thanks

Re(1): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 06:29:20 AM by Larry Harsin Yes. You have to plumb into the tractor hydraulic system in the upper left hand portion of the unit, just to the left of where the dip stick is. A half inch pipe plug has to be removed. Then a three eights plug has to be installed back in the threaded passage to block it. Then you install a fitting where you removed the half inch plug to bring oil out and to your remote valve. Then the exhaust side of the remote valve will be reconnected where a plug is located behind where you blocked the passage. This oil route has to be connected at all times either through the remote valve or with a hose to maintain the circuit. Larry

Re(2): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 216.76.116.114 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 08:42:43 AM by Shep Is that the same procedure on a 1655??? I am thinking of putting a loader on my 1655 and want to plumb it up the same.

Re(3): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 08:57:41 PM by Larry Harsin Yes. That is the same way to do it. Larry

Re(2): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 216.106.45.19 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 09:04:30 PM by doug Larry, I understand about the pressure side,but I'm not to clear which plug I should take out for the return oil. Also should my loader valve still be set for closed center? Thanks for the help.

Re(3): 1800 hydrualics

IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on March 14, 2002 at 08:26:48 PM by Larry Harsin Where the return is, is just behind where the 3/8 plug was screwed into the housing to block the passage. You have to use an open-center valve in this hydraulic system. Larry

oliver 550 IP: 209.240.222.131 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 09:05:43 PM by peter I have recently purchased a 550 which had the motor rebuilt and looked to be in good condition. I have replaced several seals and it is now fairly dry. There is a leak on the linkage side of the governor. How difficult is it to relace that seal? Does the governor have to come out? If so, how complicated will that be? I don't know if the main bearings were replaced. What is sufficient oil pressure? I just put in a new temperature gauge, after working the tractor (climbing hills) the gauge went up to 195 degrees.Is this OK? I was told that because it was a newly rebuilt motor it would run on the warm side. Is this true? THanks for your help! Peter

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 06:23:22 AM by Larry Harsin The governor housing will have to be removed from the engine to remove that seal. You have to take the operating lever out of the housing and replace the seal. You may have to renew the bearing also. Oil pressure at 15 - 20 lbs. is sufficient at operating temperature. If the temp does not exceed 200 degrees, it should be o.k. Otherwise, you may have to replace the thermostat. Larry

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 12.78.140.132 Posted on March 16, 2002 at 05:00:47 AM by Mike B To remove the governor shaft, there is a drift pin that goes through the fork and shaft inside of the cover. It is accessed through a small brass plug (about 3/8") on the front of the cover. Make sure that you have a new plug first because it will be destroyed getting it out. Another method to replacing the seal is to carefully grind the weld off of the end of the shaft and remove the linkage arm. You can then pry out the old seal and drive in a new one around the shaft. It will then have to be re-welded. Make sure that you clamp a vice grip on the shaft as a heat sink and use a quick heating welder like an arc or mig or else you'll melt the seal that you just installed!

70 RC engine questions

IP: 205.188.196.41 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:54:39 PM by Dan S I have disassembled the engine on my 1946 70 RC. According to the book this should have 3 1/8" pistons and sleeves. Mine looks like it has 2 1/4" pistons and sleeves. I can get an .008 feeler between the pistons and the sleeves. The bores look good, no scoring. Most of the wear appears to be in the sleeves as the pistons measure pretty close. Can I get away with new rings or do I need to replace liners and pistons. Were would I start looking for piston and liner kits, would rather not spend $6 or $700 if I can help it. Tractor will be used for fun and shows not heavy work but I don't want it to smoke. Also will the standard head gasket set work with this bore or do I need a bigger gasket. Thannks - hope you enjoyed you trip Dan

Re(1): 70 RC engine questions

IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 06:17:26 AM by Larry Harsin What that is, was commonly done. I think what you have is that the sleeve was bored out one eighth of an inch and Plymouth pistons were installed. At least in our area, this was a common practice. If the tractor is not going to do heavy work, it will probably be satisfactory to re-ring it. Be sure the top ring groove is not too badly worn. That could be remedied by cutting out the top groove and installing an over sized ring or you may want to consider buying new pistons and installing them in the old sleeves. Automotive supply stores may have the pistons. Your regular head gasket should work on that set up. We had a GREAT time on our trip! Larry

70rear axel

IP: 63.11.13.49 Posted on March 9, 2002 at 09:56:31 AM by ken I am replacing the rear end on my 70 RC Can the Axels and housing be removed as one peice to keep from changing wheeles . The replacement wheeles have been on for awhile. Thanks Ken

Re(1): 70rear axel

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:47:27 PM by Larry Harsin Yes, that is possible if you have a good hoist to handle the parts. Larry

Re(1): 70rear axel

IP: 63.11.13.143 Posted on March 14, 2002 at 09:46:17 PM by Ken I now have one off are all 70 RC rearends the same . r whate are the Diff.Thanks Ken PS Great page good I found It

COMPRESSION

IP: 216.12.217.243 Posted on March 7, 2002 at 08:38:10 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY WELL I PULLED A COMPRESSION TEST ON THE ENERGY CELL SIDE SIDE I GOT 3 READINGS OF 180 PSI. OFF #'S . 6 , 5 , AND 4 CYLINDERS AND STOPPED THERE BECAUSE I BELIEVE THAT ANSWERSD MY QUESTIONS OF WHY I HAVE TO SHOOT EITHER IN WHEN STARTING. YEE HAA! WHAT DO YOU THINK , IT IS ENOUGH COMPRESSION TO RUN BUT NEEDS A BOOST OF ETHER TO START!!??? IT SOUNDS LIKE LOW COMPRESSION TO ME AND THATS WHY IT WON'T START? WHEN I BOUGHT THE TRACTOR I WAS TOLD THE COMPRESSION CHECKED OUT FINE!? OH! WELL, SOMETIMES PEOPLE CAN LOOK YOU IN THE EYE AND STILL LIE!! I GUESS THATS MY FAULT! SHAME ON ME THE FIRST TIME. TANKS,KIM

Re(1): COMPRESSION

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:49:25 PM by Larry Harsin That's Great! Good Luck! Larry

Super 88 hydraulic pump

IP: 209.216.148.165 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 07:26:01 PM by Matthew Labadie Hi, I have a 1956 Oliver Super 88 and it's been parked for years because the hydraulic oil from the hydraulic pump is leaking in the rear differential of the tractor, the pump is a single lever pump, I was told that it was an O-ring. Could you help me out on this? Thank You.

Re(1): Super 88 hydraulic pump

IP: 208.10.124.193 Posted on March 7, 2002 at 11:51:54 AM by Larry from Maryland Those seals are more than orings.You will have to remove the entire hydrolic unit and the long pto shaft that drives the pump.This is a common problem and if the pump is otherwise ok you can try just replaceing the seals.Often the whole pump will need replaceing.

Re(2): Super 88 hydraulic pump

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:45:38 PM by Larry Harsin My experience with this problem usually is corrected by replacing the needle bearings and the seals if the rest of the pump parts are o.k. Larry

oliver standard 88

IP: 64.119.97.210 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 05:14:43 PM by Greg I am restoring an oliver standard 88 that i pulled out of an old barn. It is in pretty darn good condition but is missing the engine side panels. I am looking for info on where i may be able to get these panels. Also i am looking for a good picture and/or discription of the paint scheme as my tractor was painted once before and not painted as orignal. Any help with this will be a great help to me. Thanking anyone in advance for their help. Greg

Re(1): oliver standard 88

IP: 208.10.124.193 Posted on March 7, 2002 at 11:45:57 AM by Anonymous I would go to yesturdays tractors site and look through their photo section for a picture.There is a link to their boards on the bottem of larrys home page.When you get there just click on photos on the left of the page.If your tractor is a 56 then you have the color scheme that was used for only 2 years or so.This featured green wheels and yellow grill with no red anywhere.

Re(2): oliver standard 88

IP: 68.2.144.88 Posted on March 10, 2002 at 09:14:56 AM by Ken Williams Greg, You can find reproduction engine panels at Lynch Farms, 1624 Alexander Rd. Eaton, Ohio 45320. 937-456-6686

Re(3): oliver standard 88

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:42:25 PM by Larry Harsin If you need more information, email me. I can give you the numbers for the paint colors etc. and help you find decals. Larry

OLIVER SUPER 77

IP: 216.234.124.101 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 09:19:21 AM by Dan Larry,Hope you have a good time at show.I went back and looke at what I thought was super 88,opps,it's a super 77.What would be the H.P. and weight on this one.Also what High Proformace tricks can be done for pulling? Thanks Dan

Re(1): OLIVER SUPER 77

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:38:33 PM by Larry Harsin The way they were built, the horsepower was approx. 33 and the tractor weighs approx 4000lbs. Oversized sleeves and pistons are available to get the cubes increased. I have a good friend who has a S77 that has 3 and five eights bore and it is very competitive. There are sleeve sets available that are bigger than this. Like the S88, the S77 is a strong little engine. Larry

1655 Stuck in Gear

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 06:06:54 AM by Chuck I have a 1655 Diesel that stuck into 1rst gear last night. Any thoughts on where I should start?

Re(1): 1655 Stuck in Gear

IP: 208.10.124.141 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 11:25:26 AM by Larry from Maryland Remove the 4 bolts that hold the gearshift in and move the shift rails with a big screwdriver.

Re(2): 1655 Stuck in Gear

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:33:58 PM by Larry Harsin I agree with Larry Wolfe. Larry

88 hydraulics

IP: 216.138.29.86 Posted on March 5, 2002 at 11:21:20 PM by Andy Larry i have a 88 with mechanical lift and would like to get rid of that , and install hyd can you shed some light on this (do's and don'ts) many thanks

Re(1): 88 hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:32:44 PM by Larry Harsin Take the power lift assembly off. Then you'll have to remove from the input shaft the little gear that runs the power lift. Also there is a hanger bearing for the PTO shaft, that you will have to eliminate. Now the end of the input shaft where the little gear was splined on, will have to be cut off. You can do this in the tractor or you can remove this shaft from the tractor, whichever you prefer. To do this in the tractor, you will start the engine and hold a hacksaw blade with a Vise-Grip to cut the shaft off immediately behind the back bearing. (As close as possible to the bearing) When you get done, you will have some filings and cuttings from the operation that will have to be flushed and drained out of the housing. If you need a hydraulic system, I have them. Larry

Re(2): 88 hydraulics

IP: 216.138.29.67 Posted on March 13, 2002 at 10:23:21 PM by Andy Larry thanks for the info, would you suggest the #3 style hydraulics( the type on the supers with levers on top) i don't know a lot about just asking questions . What do you get $$$ out of these units?

550 PTO clutch removal

IP: 63.65.244.222 Posted on March 5, 2002 at 12:45:11 AM by Greg S. I have a 1961 oliver 550HC, gas. Can't get the PTO clutch assembly removed... I just split the tractor to work on the PTO and drive clutch. PTO clutch is inoperable due to ten years of rust. Aside from the cotter pins all the components appear to be in decent shape after a thorough cleaning. I've been able to get both release forks and tube support off. It's my understanding an allen screw needs to be loosened/removed in order to pull off the PTO clutch assembly. However, it appears that the allen screw is behind the locking Pin and thus inaccessible. I've tried to turn the PTO Adjusting Nut (lock pin pushed in), but it too is rusted tight. Can't seem to budge it using a brass drift, penetrating fluid and a propane torch. I think if I can get the thing off I could get it acid pickled to remove all the rust and work the parts free. Can the PTO shaft and clutch be removed in one assembly somehow? What if I deliberatly destroy a portion of the clutch assembly to get it removed, say drill through the floating plate and on into the allen screw. Are these parts incredibly expensive? What would you do??

Re(1): 550 PTO clutch removal

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:25:41 PM by Larry Harsin I think I would use a torch and heat those parts and then pour thread cutting oil on these parts to help them to loosen. Thread cutting oil takes more heat than ordinary penetrating oils. Patience is going to be required. I mean heating, soaking, reheating, using your brass drift to try to turn that adjusting nut. Parts for this clutch are expensive. Don't destroy it unless it is just the LAST RESORT. If you need parts, call me and I'll help you find some good used ones. 712-362-2966 Larry

Re(2): 550 PTO clutch removal

IP: 207.16.136.21 Posted on March 25, 2002 at 12:02:24 AM by A happy Greg S. Larry; Your advice on thread cutting oil was a good one. Was able to break the adjusting nut free. Used a gear puller to remove the floating hub abd saved myself ~$500. Clutch plates were shot as you'd expect after ten years. Now for the spider...will post separately. Thanks again

2255 Cab

IP: 206.74.126.214 Posted on March 4, 2002 at 02:26:14 PM by Wm. Scott Saw one or two 2255's on your site with what appears to be early model White cabs on them. Looks a lot neater than the ole square cab on mine. Does this retrofit require a lot of modifications? Thanks Wm.

Re(1): 2255 Cab

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:19:27 PM by Larry Harsin It is doable. I have not done it. But it does take some work and some modification. Larry NOT STARTING

IP: 207.218.204.152 Posted on March 3, 2002 at 11:50:14 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY CAN YOU PULL A COMPRESSION CHECK ON THE ENERGY CELL SIDE OF A 1966 - 1650 WITH SOME TYPE OF ADAPTER OR DO I HAVE TO PULL THE INJECTORS AND TEST FROM THAT SIDE WITH SOME TYPE OF ADAPTER. AND DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN PURCHASE ONE OR THE OTHER THANK YOU, KIM

Re(1): NOT STARTING

IP: 208.10.124.73 Posted on March 4, 2002 at 11:35:04 AM by Larry from Maryland Yes you can check compression from the energy cell side just use the cheapo testers that have rubber cone type ends on them.Its a 2 person job and you have to be carefull not to get injected with diesel fuel.Pull the shutoff lever so no fuel comes.If preasure is real high it is hard to hold them in but you can get a good idea of what you have.Most auto places have this type for sale.

Re(2): NOT STARTING

IP: 208.10.124.73 Posted on March 4, 2002 at 11:38:07 AM by Larry from Maryland What are your symtems other than not starting? Are you shooting fuel out the energy cells,is the oil leval riseing?

Re(3): NOT STARTING

IP: 207.218.223.203 Posted on March 4, 2002 at 03:17:15 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY THE OIL PRESSURE IS READING A STEADY 30 PSI WHEN RUNNING, SOMETIMES MORE WITH INCREASED THROTTLE. THIS TRACTOR HAS TO HAVE A SHOT OF EITHER WHEN FIRST STARTING UP. ONCE WHEN IT GETS WARMED UP IT SEEMS TO RUN OK. IT DOES PUFFS A LOT OF SMOKE WHEN TRYING TO START UP LIKE IT IS GETTING TO MUCH FUEL. I HAD THE INJECTORS WORKED ON AND WAS THINKING THEY MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED. IT WAS AROUND 30 DEGREES HERE YESTERDAY AND IT WOULD START AT ALL. I SPRAYED ETHER IN AND SHE SEEMED TO WANT TO START BUT NO LUCK. THE BATTERY STARTED TO DRAG SO I CONNECTED BOOSTER CABLE TO JUMP IT AND HELP IT OUT BUT STILL WOULD'NT START I RAN THE TRACTOR THE BEFORE AND IT RAN FINE??!! I AM GOING TO TRY TODAT SINCE ITS WARMER AND WE WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS. THANK YOU LARRY FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP, I REALLY APPRECIATE WHAT YOU ARE DOING FOR EVERYONE KIM

Re(4): NOT STARTING

IP: 208.10.125.238 Posted on March 4, 2002 at 05:27:01 PM by Larry from Maryland This has been Larry Wolfe replying so don't blame Larry H.If the injectors where set in the shop they should not need any other adjustment.My guess would be the pistons rings and sleeves and valves all have some wear,just enough to make starting a little harder.

Re(5): NOT STARTING

IP: 216.12.216.110 Posted on March 4, 2002 at 11:39:54 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY THATS WHAT I AM THINKING OH BOY !! THIS WOULD BE MY LUCK DO YOU KNOW IF YOU CAN PULL THE HEAD OFF AND DROP THE OIL PAN TO CHANGE PISTONS , RINGS AND THE SLEEVES INSTEAD OF PULLING THE ENGINE. OR MAYBE JUST REPLACE THE RINGS?? I HAD A VALVE JOB ON THE HEAD ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO AND THE SLEEVES DID NOT SHOW MUCH WEAR AND I DID'NT SEE ANY VERTICAL LINES IN THE SLEEVES SO MAYBE I COULD TAKE A SHORT CUT. I APPRECIATE YOUR INFO VERY MUCH THANK YOU, KIM

Re(6): NOT STARTING

IP: 208.10.124.88 Posted on March 5, 2002 at 01:30:24 PM by Larry from Maryland Yes you can do an in frame overhaul.There is room to remove all the parts.I once saw 2 guys replace a crankshaft without removeing the engine,of course this engine had no hydro-power.If everything looked good and the compression is ok and there is not much oil use.Then it might be a wasted effort to replace those rings.I would look real good at other parts of the engine if thats the case.

Re(7): NOT STARTING

IP: 207.218.213.57 Posted on March 5, 2002 at 08:05:33 PM by KIM HELLO LARRY I HOPE THATS NOT THE CASE?? ONCE I PULL A COMPRESSION TEST I WILL HAVE A BETTER CLUE OF WHATS GOIN ON. I AM GOING TO SEARCH FOR THE MATERIALS I WILL NEED TO RIG A TESTER TO THE ENERGY CELL SIDE. I HAVE NOT NOTICED ANY USE OF OIL, BUT THEN AGAIN I REALLY HAVEN'T HAD THE CHANCE TO RUN ALL DAY AFTER I HAD THE VALVE JOB. DO YOU HAVE AN IDEA OF WHAT THE COMPRESSION SHOULD BE, OR WHAT IS THE LOWEST READING THE TRACTOR COULD GET BY WITH ?? I KNOW THE MANUAL SAYS 350 PSI AND I WOULD THINK THAT WOULD BE A NEW ENGINE??BUT WHAT ABOUT AN ENGINE THAT HAS 5,000 HRS ON IT?? THANKS, KIM

Re(8): NOT STARTING

IP: 208.10.124.141 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 11:20:51 AM by Larry In this case the manuel would be the best that I know.I do know if I use the rubber end compression testers and use 2 hands I can only get readings up to 140 or so, because thats all I can hold in.Any more psi and it just blows past the tester.If you can find a spare energy cell cap you can drill and tap a hole and screw a tester right in.I made one to change valve springs.

Re(9): NOT STARTING

IP: 207.218.215.196 Posted on March 6, 2002 at 02:14:24 PM by KM HELLO LARRY THATS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS THINKING ABOUT DOING!! I ALSO WAS GOING TO THE HARDWARE STORE IN THE PLUMING SECTION AND LOOK TO SEE IF THE PIPE REDUCER WILL FIT ENERGY CELL THREAD PATTERN??!! EVEN IF THERE A LITTLE OFF I WILL WRAP SOME TEFLON TAPE AROUND TO MAKE UP THE DIFFERENCE? I WILL LET YOU KNOW!! HAVE A GREAT DAY AND THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

Re(10): NOT STARTING

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:16:52 PM by Larry Harsin It sounds like low compression. Have you checked the condition of the batteries and the starter? You must have good cranking speed to get these things to start. Larry

Value and sale of 1775-oliver

IP: 208.136.125.250 Posted on March 2, 2002 at 04:17:04 PM by Gary Schaff Checking around for buyers and approx. value to a Oliver tractor with cab, duals, hydroshift-over/under, 6033 hours and it also has a 10'Renn blade attached to it. The model # is 675-22803 and serial # 260-287-676.. any historical information is also welcome. Thanks..

Re(1): Value and sale of 1775-oliver

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:08:27 PM by Larry Harsin You have a 1755 built in 1975. I would say the approx. value is $4750 to $6000, depending on the condition of the engine and tires etc. Larry

Rowcrop 88

IP: 198.146.112.164 Posted on March 1, 2002 at 09:21:29 AM by Brad I have an 88. We put a fuel pump on it and now it's getting gas in the oil. Is the pump just to much and should I go back to the original way. Also when I am pulling the tractor it just boggs down instead of spinning like all the other guys do. What's wrong????

Re(1): Rowcrop 88

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:05:36 PM by Larry Harsin I believe I would remove the pump and see how it acts then. It may be developing too much pressure. It looks like it will take some experimenting. Larry

oliver 70

IP: 156.63.45.163 Posted on February 28, 2002 at 10:50:48 AM by stepen I need to know torques and valve angels for my 70 row crop

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on February 28, 2002 at 12:43:51 AM by Larry Harsin The torques are about 80 on the main head bolts and 75 on the 2 short corner head bolts. Set the valves at about .012 and the exhaust valve seat angle is 45 and the intake valve seat angle is 30. Larry

Re(2): oliver 70

IP: 156.63.45.164 Posted on March 7, 2002 at 10:53:51 AM by stephen Thank you verry much. I live in southeastern ohio where olivers aren't verry popular and I have been having a hard time finding any information. Even the old Oliver dealer woulden't help me. I am 18 and this is my first tractor. So far it has been a very fun experience.

Re(3): oliver 70

IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on March 12, 2002 at 08:02:33 PM by Larry Harsin Good Luck! Let us know if we can help. Larry

1950-T

IP: 207.44.55.227 Posted on February 27, 2002 at 08:51:02 PM by kevin I just read the discussion about the person that wants to get more horse power from his 1950-T, posted on 2-19-02. Here is what I did to get about 500+ HP. I started with a 1650 rear end & frame. Then moved forward and put in a cower 3 disc slipper clutch. I still use the stock 310 engine, but have a Bosch A pump capable of 750cc. Then we have a Holeset 3" in & 3" out turbocharger.Thats about all was done last year (2001). This tractor pulls in the Limited Pro class on the ATPA circuit in Pa. It runs in the 8500# class. Pulls in 5th gear with NO hydro-power,tires are cut 20.8-38 & turns at approx 4500 to 5000 RPMS. No problems and no breakages at all, for two (2) pulling seasons. Have fun !!!

Re(1): 1950-T

IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on February 28, 2002 at 06:05:23 AM by Larry Harsin Sounds like you are having fun!!! Hopefully those boys will see this message. Larry

Re(2): 1950-T

IP: 207.65.178.4 Posted on February 28, 2002 at 06:51:25 PM by Brad Please post your e-mail Kevin. I would like to talk to you about your T. Thanks, Brad

Trans oil level 70 RC

IP: 24.48.17.130 Posted on February 27, 2002 at 02:18:55 PM by Dan S Does the rear and transmission share the same oil level in a 1946 70 RC. If so why do they have a level plug for the rear and another for the trans on a different level. The trans level plug I'm referring to is on the r/s ahead of the brake housing, and the rear plug is on the same side at the rear. Thanks, Dan

Re(1): Trans oil level 70 RC

IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on February 28, 2002 at 06:01:47 AM by Larry Harsin Yes, they do. The rear is the one to go by. I don't believe the other one is really a transmission level plug. I'm not sure what it is for, really. Larry

oil pressure

IP: 216.134.12.253 Posted on February 27, 2002 at 11:26:45 AM by kraig mcmillan How much oil pressure should a Ollie 770 have? At idle I have 25lbs and at full throttle I have 30 lbs.

Re(1): oil pressure

IP: 209.163.7.69 Posted on February 28, 2002 at 05:58:00 AM by Larry Harsin That is plenty! You are in good shape. Larry


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