"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - March, 2005 Archives


1655 leak antifreeze in cylinder

IP: 198.74.20.75 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 01:52:21 PM by Chad

OK guys, I need some real help on this one. I am looking to buy a 1655 that is leaking antifreeze in one of the cylinders. I will take for a test run later this week or early next and post a follow up. The tractor looks good otherwise. 3600 hours, deisel. What would be a shop estimate to fix the issue. What about a full overhaul while have it apart? I am wondering how much to discount my offer so I don't end up with more in it then it is worth. Thanks for any advice. Chad

Re(1): 1655 leak antifreeze in cylinder

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 03:02:24 PM by Ron

If you and the seller are both serious, get a cylinder leakdown test done by a mechanic. It will help narrow down the cause of the leak and that determines the cost of repair. He can also check compression and that will tell you if it needs rebuilding. If you are told it's a bad head gasket, be very careful. Head gaskets don't go bad, they get torn by the head as it warps from overheating. Usually the repair is to surface the head dead flat, replace the head gasket, and replace the head bolts. However, the cause of the overheating must be diagnosed and corrected or you'll be doing it again, real soon. If the coolant leak is substantial and the engine has been operated with coolant in the crankcase, I'd pass on it. Coolant destroys bearings and therefore the crank and rods and at that point the engine rebuild will cost more than the tractor is worth.

Re(2): 1655 leak antifreeze in cylinder

IP: 198.74.20.74 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 05:15:15 PM by Chad

Ron, I going to go look at it again tomorrow, loosen the plug and see if there is antifreeze/water in the oil. Dipstick didn't show any, just black oil. Chad

Re(3): 1655 leak antifreeze in cylinder

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 06:19:32 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to use your own good judgement, but there are possibilities for some big bucks here! If the problem was leakage around the sleeve seals, I would get an engine overhaul kit and do it all. Larry


1855 Hydraulics

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on April 4, 2005 at 01:03:08 PM by Chuck

I just purchased a 6 row toolbar planter. It has been outfitted with a set of markers from an international 400 planter. These have single acting hyd. cylinders on them. Each one plugs into my remote outlets, but there is nothing to plug into the bottom ones. They don't work. The guy I bought it from said I need to plumb lines from my bottom remote outlets, back into the hydraulic reservoir as a dump. Does this sound right? If so, where is the best place to dump it back in? Thanks,

Re(1): 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 07:22:31 AM by Larry Harsin

There should be a plug on the reservoir on the back of the unit. Your Operator's Manual should show you where it is. It also, should give you more information about the operation that you are describing. Larry

Re(2): 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 08:40:05 AM by Chuck

I looked through the Service Manual last night, (I don't have the operators manual) and didn't see anything in there. I did, however, see that there are two pipe plugs on the back of the unit on the left side. One is up higher, and one is down lower. Should it matter which I use? Thanks,

Re(3): 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 10:13:23 AM by Ron

You'll need the Operator's Manual. There are bypass and relief valves that must be set for single cylinder operation as well. The manual explains all.

Re(4): 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 06:14:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Ron is right. You need to get an Operator's Manual. The Operator's Manual is as important a part of a tractor as any other part. You can get one from the Museum at Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net Larry


Oliver plows

IP: 64.33.153.92 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 10:37:55 PM by Carlton Grambo

Larry, When my parents were farming we had a Oliver plow that could be extended from the three bottom like ours or go out to a five bottom. I have tried to find the model number. The picture of the 4240 but I have seen this in two bottom. My Dad remembers that our was a three bottom at the smallest. Would you know the model by chance. It was hydralic. I see there is a Harvestore in the background of one your pictures. Used to work for them. thanks, Carlton.

Re(1): Oliver plows

IP: 67.2.249.139 Posted on April 4, 2005 at 06:16:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The 4340 was built as a 3 bottom that could be expanded to 4 but not 5. It was strictly a pull-type plow. There was a series of plows built in the late 50's and early 60's, model 4441. It started as a 4 bottom and expanded to 6 bottoms. Then in the 60's, there was a 565 and a 566 plow that was semi-mounted. They went from 3 to 6 or 7 bottoms, depending on how you ordered them. This was the most popular plow that they had at the time I worked for Oliver. You could order them with different backbones and they could be adjustable in width to accomodate 14" or 16" bottoms. Oliver built many, many different plows in many different models, and I am not familiar with all of them. Larry


880 diesel injection system

IP: 216.174.52.50 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 09:27:49 PM by Richard Jefferies

I noticed in my parts book that there are 2 different injection systems for the 880 diesels. I was wondering if you could shed some light on "why" and is one any better than the other. Mine has the Bosch system. Are there any adjustments I can make to gain more power?

Re(1): 880 diesel injection system

IP: 67.2.248.247 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 10:33:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The Bosch system is the earlier type and was the most used. The later system with the Roosa-Master was just used in the last year of production. In my view, they are both good. I do like the governor response with the later system, but both are o.k. The adjustment of the smoke screw on your Bosch pump sets the amount of fuel that your Bosch pump uses. Turn it clockwise to increase the fuel delivery. I like to have access to a dyno when doing this. Larry

Re(2): 880 diesel injection system

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on April 4, 2005 at 05:59:56 AM by Ron

If you decide to play with the "smoke screw" take Larry's advice and use a dyno. Excess black smoke is a sign of less power, not more, and hurts the engine. Actually the first step to get more power is to make sure the injection pump timing is set to the specs in the service manual. Doing these adjustments on a dyno ensures that you have them correct.


Super 44 Three Point Hitch

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 06:43:56 PM by Scott Dehoff

I have a 1958 Super 44 that the three point hitch will not lift. The hydualic cylinder for the cultivators works fine. What do you suggest to solve this problem?

Re(1): Super 44 Three Point Hitch

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 07:21:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not familiar with the hydraulics on a S44. Contact Ollie Schaefer 618-664-3050. Larry


oliver 70 1939

IP: 69.29.231.243 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 11:33:24 AM by RORY

do you know where I can find parts for an oliver 70 standard I am looking for the intake and exhaust manifold gas tank and the piece that the gauge and and throttle bolts to and various other parts

Re(1): oliver 70 1939

IP: 67.2.249.130 Posted on April 3, 2005 at 12:58:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I have some 70 parts including a manifold. Give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry


1250 diesel

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 09:49:56 AM by glenn cornett

what type of diesel engines is in the 1250 tractors and where can I get parts.

Re(1): 1250 diesel

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 09:55:33 AM by Ron

Fiat. Fiat-Allis dealer.

Re(2): 1250 diesel

IP: 67.2.240.161 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 06:03:03 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a direct injected engine built in Italy by Fiat for Oliver. You may have to look around some. Ag Parts First has some 1250 parts. 866-264-9720 Also, Maibach Tractor has some parts 800-808-9932. There is a fellow in Tennessee that we have been told has Fiat Oliver parts. Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557. Also, you may want to check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

Re(3): 1250 diesel

IP: 69.215.51.28 Posted on April 4, 2005 at 02:48:43 PM by H. Deckler

I think you have the 1250 and 1255 mixed, as I recall the 1250 diesel had a pre-cup design {21.5:1 compression ratio] built from 1965 to 1969. The 1250-A [ later the 1255 ] had a 3 cyl. direct injection engine. Compression ratio 17:1, they were built from 1969 to 1970. 1250's used glow plugs for starting, and you had to hold that glowplug switch for 2 minutes period, or it wouldn't start cold. Both were Fiat built.


1850d -105d or110d

IP: 65.199.18.70 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 00:26:07 AM by brian

what are the differences in the engines that i would have to change to make a 354 out of a later model 1850 to a turbo charged 105 or 110 besides the turbo, manifolds and jumping the fuel up. also if you can give me any data for fuel specs. would be great

Re(1): 1850d -105d or110d

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 00:36:01 AM by Larry Harsin

The engines in the 105 and the 110 are different than the one in the 1850. There are lots of refinements and improvements. They're just a new generation of the "old" engine, and they are new and improved all the way through. I would go to a salvage yard and get one of those engines or get one out of a combine and use that, instead of trying to improve the 1850 engine. Larry

Re(2): 1850d -105d or110d

IP: 65.199.18.70 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 09:42:00 AM by brian

thankyou for the quick reply I guess i will rebuild it as a 1850 then


770 Wide Front

IP: 4.143.182.96 Posted on April 1, 2005 at 09:37:51 PM by Mike

I have a 770 with a wide front end and it is loose. (rolls back and forth) can you rebuild these, and where do you get parts,whats it take to do it if it can be done. Thanks

Re(1): 770 Wide Front

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 00:22:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Mainly it's tightening up the yoke where it fits onto the front axle. Replacing worn bushings on the pivots and replacing the worn bushings on the spindles and anything else that is loose. For the parts that you need, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1650 diesel oil

IP: 69.26.16.63 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 08:41:27 PM by Bill Wagner

Since you recommend Mobil One for the 1950T diesel, does that mean you would also recommend it for my 1650 diesel? I have been wondering wheather all properly rated diesel engine oils would be satisfactory.

Re(1): 1650 diesel oil

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 10:20:24 PM by Larry Harsin

That Mobil 1300 Delvac series oil in SAE 30, above freezing temp is an excellent choice. Below freezing, I use Mobil Devac 10 - 30. I am sure that the new synthetics are better, but we have had excellent service with the above. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel oil

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on April 1, 2005 at 06:11:50 AM by Ron

Any oil that meets the grade specification is appropriate. By the way, all Mobil 1 oil is fully synthetic as is the new Delvac 1 oil. Mobil's website covers this.


1950T Motor Oil

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 02:10:19 PM by David Cruise

Hello.....In a recent posting, "Ron" answered that it would be a big benefit to run Mobil 1 synthetic in the 1950T. What grade of oil? and what type. They make a tri-synthetic and a straight synthetic. The tri synthetic is maybe a dollar more per quart. Thank You for your help.......

Re(1): 1950T Motor Oil

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 02:28:38 PM by Ron

Your Operator's manual will have the recommended grade of oil for your diesel engine. Any Mobil 1 oil that meets that grade specification will be an excellent choice. See http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1.aspx for more information.

Re(2): 1950T Motor Oil

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 10:16:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I have not used synthetic oil. I'm sure it is superior, however. I'm sure your Mobil Dealer could make a recommendation for you. Larry


1850 LP gas bearings

IP: 64.33.182.70 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 10:10:20 AM by Jerry Chatleain

Larry, Hi. I am the guy that has the 1850 lpg that you put in sherry's magazine. I finally took the oil pan off the engine and it was full of gunk and quart of water. No.1 main was adhered to crank but did not spin in the block, No. 5 thrust has a razor edge flange to it, most journal bearings are worn from being pushed against by the crank. I took oil filter off and that was full of rust and kinda dry, filter was plugged at top and bottom with metal flakes around the middle. Engine was rebuilt around 1979 from date on bearings. Need to clean up journals and measure them to see how worn crank is. 1. How do you measure crank journals in the engine? 2. What normally cause flange to become razor edge thin? Preassure against crank? Lack of oil? Or just normal wear from years of use? 3. There is rust and corrosion in the front timing gear cover and looks dry up there, There was a pile of corrosion laying on the lip in th bottom there. Do I have plug oil line going up there or water getting in or water from oil system washed it? Thanks, Jerry

Re(1): 1850 LP gas bearings

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 10:29:50 AM by Ron

You don't measure main journals with the crank in the engine. You use a mike with it out of the engine. You can measure bearing clearances with the crank in the engine using the proper type Plastigage. However, this only works if the caps and bearings are perfect and the journals are perfectly round. Rod journals can be measured my mike with the crank in the block but I doubt they are anywhere close to being round. Thrust bearings are designed to absorb linear thrust from the clutch. The kind of wear you are describing is a result of a "no oil" situation. Yes, you have an oil gallery plugged. Wait until you take the head off and see what that looks like! I've rebuilt many an engine and this one sounds like it needs to come completely apart at the machine shop and be evaluated. Don't be surprised if the estimate to repair exceeds the value of the tractor.

Re(2): 1850 LP gas bearings

IP: 67.2.248.101 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 10:59:03 PM by Larry Harsin

If you look on the bearing backs, it should say what size they are; such as std for standard or 010 or 020 etc. If the crank has been ground, it should be stamped such as m20 and r10, for instance. Normally this is stamped at the front end of the crank shaft normally at the number 1 crank throw. The razor edge on the flange is a common problem on worn engines and is sometimes caused by the driver riding the clutch too much. This sounds like the engine has set for sometime since it was used. It will probably have to be completely disassembled and all of the oil galleries cleaned. Sounds like a project. Larry


1600 power steering

IP: 207.69.48.36 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 10:52:26 PM by TJB

The power steering went out all of a sudden on my 1600. Before this happened, I noticed a lot of slop. The steering wheel turns but no wheel movement. When I turn the wheel very far in one direction, it makes one of the hoses move. Fluid level seems to be fine. Is there a power steering pump that is bad? I could not find a belt driving anything like that.

Re(1): 1600 power steering

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 01:23:15 AM by Ron

The power steering is operated by the hydraulic pump, they same one that operates the 3pt. and remotes (loader or whatever). So if the 3pt. doesn't work, it's likely a dead pump. If it does, the steering motor under the dash is likely the culprit.

Re(2): 1600 power steering

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 07:22:47 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like your hydraulic steering is working, but it sounds like something is broken on the wide front under the steering cylinder. Some steering linkage might be broken there, or a pitman shaft. Larry

Re(3): 1600 power steering

IP: 67.32.201.58 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 12:49:55 PM by TJB

The linkage appears to be fine as is the 3 pt and remotes. I think it must be the cylinder at the front or the mechanism under the steering wheel. How do I check to see which needs fixing

Re(4): 1600 power steering

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 31, 2005 at 02:31:25 PM by Ron

It's likely the steering motor under the dash... when they die, they die. If the cylinder under the front of the tractor goes bad most often they leak like the Titanic.

Re(5): 1600 power steering

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on April 2, 2005 at 00:29:37 AM by Larry Harsin

The flow divider may have a stuck regulating spool in it. Check that out. When you say that when you turn the steering wheel a certain way, I still think you need to check some more up on the front. The pitman shaft splines may be stripped under the steering cylinder under the radiator. Larry


66 front main

IP: 216.163.124.187 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 09:40:45 PM by Bobby

1950 66 RC is the front main seal felt, if so are they available and what do they cost?

Re(1): 66 front main

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 10:42:14 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a spring loaded cork and a felt. You have to remove the front timing cover to replace it. They are available. You can get them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1850 diesel (Perkins 354?

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 09:16:00 PM by J. Ulmer

This tractor model was the only one set up to accept the bolt pattern on the Perkins Diesels.(Right?) Massey Ferguson 1104 (?) used same engine? Did Massey use the same engine in any other equipment?(such as 750 or 760 self-propelled combine)

Re(1): 1850 diesel (Perkins 354?

IP: 216.163.124.187 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 09:34:35 PM by Bobby

The 354 was used in the 550 MF combine in the 70's and 80's. I am not sure what the 510 diesel's used. I think the 354 was also used in the 1100 but won't say for sure.

Re(2): 1850 diesel (Perkins 354?

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 10:39:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it was used in the 1850 diesel. Massey used that same engine in a lot of their combines and tractors. It takes quite a bit of changing on different components (oil coolers, water pumps, timing covers, manifolds etc) to go from one brand application to the other. The 354 was used in the 550 and 750 combine and the 1100 tractor, etc. Larry

Re(3): 1850 diesel (Perkins 354?

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 10:06:52 PM by J.Ulmer

So If I can find an 1850 Oliver Diesel tractor that has a terminal case of motor disease a transplant from a donor machine of the bare motor (block assembly, heads and crank) which is in good shape should accept most of the Oliver dictated accessories...verdad? (Right?) There are 60 to 80 MF combines thirty miles from here which wore out the sheet metal threshing stuff, but have only 2500 to 4000 hours on the motors. Keep an eye out for me. Jerry

Re(4): 1850 diesel (Perkins 354?

IP: 67.2.248.101 Posted on March 30, 2005 at 11:02:32 PM by Larry Harsin

I have an 1850 diesel here that has a tired engine. It's complete. If you are interested in it, email me. Larry


Oliver 88 Engine Specs

IP: 199.199.181.141 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 08:17:12 PM by Wide Open

Hey Larry, just picked up a 1951 Oliver 88. Was just wonderin if you could answer a few simple questions I have? First question is: What should the valve clearences be? Second: What plugs would you recommend? also, on the back of the bell housing, where the drive shaft comes through, there is a little round plate that fastens to the back of the bell housing it is supposed to be held on by two rivets or screws? which is it? Thanks for your help, Wide Open

Re(1): Oliver 88 Engine Specs

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 10:32:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Valve Clearances are 10 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust. I like D-16 Champion or 86 Commercial A-C plug. That little plate is held on by 2 screws. Originally there was a felt in there that kept the dust out of the bell housing. It is not real critical if it isn't there. Larry


1655D PTO Fluid Level

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 07:56:29 PM by Tim Paston

My question is, Just above the PTO is a gear housing with a fill plug what is this and how much fluid should be in it, if any?

Re(1): 1655D PTO Fluid Level

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 08:45:11 PM by Ron

Read your Operator's Manual. The PTO gets it's lubrication from the transmission/final drive and there is a very specific procedure to drain/refill the T/FD.

Re(2): 1655D PTO Fluid Level

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 10:27:53 PM by Larry Harsin

The PTO on the 1650 and the 1655 is oiled from the transmission. The level plug for the transmission is on the right side behind the axle housing. The plug on the top of the PTO housing is an access hole to adjust the PTO clutch. Larry


1650 power steering

IP: 69.26.17.174 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 08:25:37 PM by Bill Wagner

I just mounted a used DoAl loader on my 1650 using the tractor hydraulics. The loader works just fine, but now we are having some on again - off again problems with the power steering. Someone said there could be dirt in the unit that controls the hydraulic flow to the power stearing (contamination from the old loader?) Right now it's working fine, but I am wondering if it will start acting up again. I am going to change the filter. Is there anything else I should do? The tractor hydraulics and three point are working fine.

Re(1): 1650 power steering

IP: 67.2.248.237 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 06:47:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Change the hydraulic filter like you plan to do, and it will probably be fine. Larry


1550 Starter Drive or Switch??

IP: 165.138.147.4 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 01:46:55 PM by Jeff

1550 gas. Put in a new battery and started the tractor. The switch would not turn off the tractor. After shutting tractor down, the battery is discharged and the switch does not turn on indicator lights. I can remove the battery cables, charge the battery, reconnect and use the switch to start the tractor but the switch will not turn off the tractor and the battery is dead again. Bad switch or starter drive?

Re(1): 1550 Starter Drive or Switch??

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 02:24:41 PM by Ron

Neither. The condition you describe is called "run-on" and is caused by either a faulty voltage regulator or an associated wiring problem. Keep the negative battery cable disconnected until you find and fix the problem or you may burn the tractor to the ground.

Re(2): 1550 Starter Drive or Switch??

IP: 4.245.46.167 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 05:27:48 AM by Jake

Ron,replace the starter switch.same problem with mine and a new starter swith cured the problem. Jake

Re(3): 1550 Starter Drive or Switch??

IP: 165.138.147.4 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 03:32:59 PM by Jeff

How should I begin to troubleshoot?

Re(4): 1550 Starter Drive or Switch??

IP: 67.2.248.237 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 06:44:58 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is the starter solenoid. It may be sticking. If it isn't the solenoid, I'd replace the ignition switch. Larry

Re(5): 1550 Starter Drive or Switch??

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 07:05:43 AM by Ron

You replaced the battery for a reason. Was it constantly discharging... like it's doing now? If so, disconnect the negative battery lead and place your DMM on the 12V scale between the battery post and cable with the key "off". If there is any voltage reading at all, you have a short in the wiring or the voltage regulator contacts are stuck shut. Most NAPA stores will check voltage regulators for free and new ones are $20. If you have to diagnose a short, you'll need the wiring diagram in the Operator's Manual. I went through this recently with my 1650. I keep an eye on the ammeter so I noticed it right away, did the test I described, and solved it by replacing the voltage regulator. Because I caught it so fast my battery wasn't damaged but if yours has completely discharged several times you might want to have NAPA load test it. The standard "shallow cycle" batteries don't tolerate being fully discharged more then a few times before they go bad.

(6) Solution

IP: 165.138.147.4 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 01:34:40 PM by Jeff

The starter solenoid was bad. Thanks to all who assisted. I appreciate it...


1655D throttle

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 09:50:13 AM by CEB

Hi Larry, The throttle on my 1655 Diesel has started to "drift" on its own. I need to tighten it up. I see a shaft that goes through a couple of castings and then their is a rod hooked to that shaft. The rod goes to the injector pump. It appears the only way to tighten the throttle would be down at the injector pump. What would I need to do? Is there some kind of spring or something else that controls the tension?

Re(1): 1655D throttle

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 10:46:18 AM by Larry from MD

Yes there is someting else.The tighener is inside the sheet metal by the throttle handel.Its a nut on the shaft that is screwed in to tighen the friction discs.Its easy to get to if you have the hood and fuel tank off.Otherwise its hard to tighten.

Re(2): 1655D throttle

IP: 67.2.248.237 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 06:42:21 AM by Larry Harsin

This procedure should be outlined in your Operator's Manual. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net Larry


Oliver 1650 Hydra Power Problem

IP: 205.188.116.9 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 08:37:34 AM by David Cruise

Hello.... I have a 1967 1650 diesel that has a problem with the hydra power. When I switch from high side to low side the hydra power will go out of gear for 5 to 10 seconds and then you will feel it start to grab and then engage. It seems like it does it worse when the tractor oil is hot. It is getting worse, I really need this tractor to rake hay with this summer. Any ideas on what could be wrong with the hydra power? Tracor has 4500 hours and the oil was changed last year in the hydra power unit. Thank You

Re(1): Oliver 1650 Hydra Power Problem

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 09:49:07 AM by Ron

If this problem started to happen after you changed the oil, you may have used the wrong oil. Dexron/Mercon ATF is the correct fluid. Did you also change the filter? Is the ATF level correct? Is the cooler hooked up and working? If the problem only happens when you are ponted downhill, it might be operating normally. It normally takes a couple of seconds, say 2-4 seconds, to "catch up". If it really takes 5-10 seconds there may be a problem. The service manual has a section on diagnosing these types of problems.

Re(2): Oliver 1650 Hydra Power Problem

IP: 67.2.248.237 Posted on March 29, 2005 at 06:38:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say that your sprague clutch is worn and needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you can run it in the high side only. Larry


(Paint)

IP: 66.244.72.175 Posted on March 27, 2005 at 10:51:50 PM by michael keith moore

what years did oliver use the meadow green like the tractors on your webpage was this a shortlived color scheme? thanks michael keith moore

Re(1): (Paint)

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 06:42:28 AM by Larry Harsin

It's the longest lived color scheme that they used. It began with the late Fleetlines to the end of the Olivers. Like from 1952 or up. Larry


super 88 diesel starting

IP: 216.16.57.193 Posted on March 27, 2005 at 09:07:40 PM by Gary Copperstone

Larry I read your answer to Greg Mueller on starting his 88 diesel. I also just purchased a super 88 diesel which has been setting for well over a year with the fuel system drained. Last Friday the guy put fresh fuel in it and started the tractor with very little effort, but he had no control of engine RPM with the throttle lever. Sat. I went to check it out and we took the cover off like you said and it takes some force to move the control rod back and forth. Larry, is this a problem with the plunger sleeve in the injector head or something else in the head rather than on the governor side? If it is in the injector head is there anything we can do without taking the pump apart to free it up? Moving the control rod does control engine RPM and engine runs and sounds real good. Thanks Larry Gary Copperstone

Re(1): super 88 diesel starting

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on March 28, 2005 at 06:40:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You should remove the plunger sleeve from the injection pump and soak it in diesel fuel. Then work with it on the bench until it frees up. It may take some time - such as soaking overnight and working with it afterwards for a day or two. If you get frustrated, go price a new one. :) Or call me, I might be able to find one around here. Larry


88 implements

IP: 63.135.135.92 Posted on March 27, 2005 at 03:47:43 PM by Brian Levezow

I have purchased a 1949 oliver 88 and am looking for implements for implements for it . I am told the tractor will pull a 3 bottom 16 plow and a 10 foot wheel disc . Is this correct ? A 10 foot disc seems kinda big for this tractor . I have heavier ground .

Re(1): 88 implements

IP: 67.2.248.155 Posted on March 27, 2005 at 07:12:03 PM by Larry Harsin

An 88 should handle those 2 implements real well. Larry


crankshaft

IP: 24.8.35.83 Posted on March 26, 2005 at 10:38:54 AM by jerry miller

need crankshaft for 50 60 oliver

Re(1): crankshaft

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on March 26, 2005 at 08:48:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Check with Arnold Meyer at email: almeyer@frontiernet.net or Glen Brink 712-385-8540. If they don't have one, you could check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry


restore

IP: 207.69.138.204 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 02:00:05 PM by greg edwards

i have a 1952 oliver oc3 that I would to get restored would like to have names and # if any body would do a good job i can be called at 15135206976 I live in aurora IN thanks

Re(1): restore

IP: 67.2.249.227 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 07:56:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Check with Landis Zimmerman 717-738-2573 Email: zoc@att.net Landis has a parts and service business for Cletracs. Larry


1650 Engine options

IP: 199.46.199.232 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 12:50:10 PM by Bob Senator

I have a Oliver 1650 Deisel with a thrown rod/ cracked block. I have been having trouble finding a replacement short block. What Engines could I replace the one I have with.

Re(1): 1650 Engine options

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 01:38:49 PM by Ron

Any Oliver/Waukesha 6 cylinder engine, gas or diesel, will fit. Some people have repowered with Cummins diesels but that costs more than the tractor is worth. Ron

Re(2): 1650 Engine options

IP: 65.162.15.53 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 07:09:07 PM by Jon Noe

Larry Are you saying that an 1850, 310 will fit ok? Jon

Re(3): 1650 Engine options

IP: 67.2.249.227 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 07:52:46 PM by Larry Harsin

That wasn't my answer------- I wouldn't put a 310 in a 1650. I have an 880 gas engine that would go in it. It will be a little less HP. A 1655 gas or diesel would work. A 1750 gas or diesel would work. But I wouldn't go any larger than these. The 1850 gas will give you problems with the flywheel and other places. Larry

Re(4): 1650 Engine options

IP: 65.6.20.143 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 09:42:27 PM by George

Put the 1850 in and use the 1650 flywheel. Solves that problem and the pto drive problem. Not an uncommon swap, have seen some in 770s. George

Re(5): 1650 Engine options

IP: 65.162.15.47 Posted on March 26, 2005 at 10:07:16 AM by Jon Noe

Thank you for the info Nice to know what all will fit. I have one more question will the 1850 5" crank fit in the 1600 block? Jon

Re(6): 1650 Engine options

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on March 26, 2005 at 08:44:32 PM by Larry Harsin No, it won't. Larry


1950T Motor

IP: 205.188.116.66 Posted on March 24, 2005 at 10:11:45 PM by David Cruise

Does anyone know if the 1950T motor had any inherit problems like the 55 series did in the 70's. I had read that the added turbo put too much strain on the bottom end of the waukasha motor.I am purchasing a 1950T with 5300 hours and was wondering.... Thank You

Re(1): 1950T Motor

IP: 67.2.248.75 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 06:46:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Compared to the Waukesha engines that preceded it, the 1950T is a short lifed engine. If you do not overload them or overfuel them, they can give satisfactory service. Two important things that I would do is, to make sure that it has the new one piece style rod bushings, and the new style connecting rod bolts. Also, if I were to really put it to work, I would deepen the engine oil pan so that it would hold another 3 qts. of oil. Cut the pan in two and weld in a section to deepen it. Larry

Re(2): 1950T Motor

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 09:49:20 AM by Ron

In addition to Larry's great advice, I'd consider running Mobil 1 synthetic oil. It's good insurance for that very powerful engine.


Plows

IP: 209.247.222.44 Posted on March 24, 2005 at 12:03:07 PM by Mark L. Seaman

I found a set of two bottom pull type Oliver plows in a woods at a place I once worked. They work perfect. I was wondering if you could give me more info on them or where I could get a manual and info on paint and decals. The info on the back of the moldboard is still readable it says Oliver across the top then under that is say RaydeX under that it says NC 234-12M if you could help me out, I would appriciate it thanks.

Re(1): Plows

IP: 67.2.248.242 Posted on March 24, 2005 at 12:31:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I would guess the plow is an Oliver 100. Or it could be an earlier model. From the numbers on the mold board, it sounds like a 12 inch bottom. Talk to Mary Ann at the Museum. She can send you an Operator's Manual for it. The Museum's phone: 641-228-1099. Email: fchs@fiai.net Most of the plows were red with green wheels. Some were green with red wheels. You should be able to see traces of paint in unexposed areas. Maybe that would give you a clue. After you get it figured out (what you have), you could check with Lyle Dumont on decals and their placement. Dumont's email: oliver@lisco.com Larry


EXHUAST

IP: 207.231.118.199 Posted on March 23, 2005 at 12:23:22 PM by CORRE

IAM TRYING TO FIND A PLACE THAT HAS CHROME STACKS IAM LOOKING FOR ONE WITH A THREE INCHES INSIDE BORE THANKYOU FOR ANY HELP ABOUT THREE FEET LONG

Re(1): EXHUAST

IP: 67.2.248.74 Posted on March 24, 2005 at 06:01:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Steiner Tractor Parts. 810-695-1919 Email: sales@steinertractorparts.com Website: www.steinertractor.com Larry

Re(2): EXHUAST

IP: 207.231.118.126 Posted on March 27, 2005 at 07:00:21 AM by CORRE

THANK YOU FOR THE HELP LARRY HAVE A HAPPY EASTER


770 steering

IP: 67.35.185.157 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 04:46:30 PM by Gary

I have a late model 770 with power steering(same as 50/55 series). I am replacing the seals and need to know the location of the o-rings that coincide with teflon seals, there is no groove for them to ride in.

Re(1): 770 steering

IP: 67.2.249.44 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 06:30:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't understand what you are asking. Are you working under the radiator or where? Larry

Re(2): 770 steering

IP: 67.35.185.157 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 06:48:54 PM by gary

Yes, under the radiator. The power steering cylinder has an o-ring next to each teflon seal at each end of the piston. Where, exactly, do these two o-rings go in relation to the teflon seals. I have all manuals for the tractor, but unfortunately, my service manual is from 1962 and the tractor is a 1964. That particular cylinder is not covered. Thank you.

Re(3): 770 steering

IP: 67.2.248.42 Posted on March 24, 2005 at 07:38:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The "O" ring goes in the piston groove and the teflon seal on top of it. Larry


1900 Oliver

IP: 204.96.146.166 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 03:17:46 PM by todd

we have a 1900 oliver 4 cyl. gm diesel, it's for sale and we don't know whats it's worth, all help would be appreciated.

Re(1): 1900 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.44 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 06:28:07 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is in good, running condition and completely there, I'd say it is worth $3000 - $5000. More to the higher end if it has a 3 pt. hitch. Condition of tires, appearance etc. all come into value. Larry


Oliver 55

IP: 63.167.47.111 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 10:07:18 PM by Bailey

How do you interpert the serial number on the super 55 tractors.

Re(1): Oliver 55

IP: 67.2.249.44 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 06:26:33 PM by Larry Harsin

The first 5 or 6 digits are the serial number. The last 3 digits are gearing etc that are put into the tractor. The Museum in Charles City has come up with the "Build Cards" that went along the assembly line with each tractor built. They tell what all was put into the tractor, the date and what dealership the tractor was shipped to etc. For a fee, you can have the Museum look up your build card and see what they can tell you. They havn't figured out all of the codes yet, but are working on it. You can email Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum at: fchs@fiai.net Larry


1855 Steering

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 01:00:28 PM by Shep Va

On my 1855 the steering is getting worse. I have a front end loader on the tractor and it used to be that when I had a heavy bale on the loader the power steering would quit at lower ground speeds. But now even with out anything on the loader the power steering is coming and going a lot. When moving slow it really doesnt have any power steering at all anymore at any rpm. As you start to move faster the steering will start working and when you are out on the highway it works pretty good, although sometimes it will be like it is locked for just an instant and then work again. I have had problems with the steering drifting to the left when going down the road for years and you have to keep turning the wheel slowly as you are driving, I think that is in the steering motor out front, but I havent bothered it yet. Any ideas on where to start?? I wonder if I should pull the steering motor out front. It has been leaking some fluid out of the quad seal on the bottom, and it does have some play up there that is causing about an inch of movement on the wheels. Or should I do something with the diverter valve for the steering by the main hydraulic pump. Any ideas??

Re(1): 1855 Steering

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 01:21:08 PM by J.Ulmer

As your road wheels start rolling faster, the turning resistance is spread out over the greater ground distance lessening the torque necessary to steer the wheels. This accounts for your steering operating when moving. Same as in a geared steering like an old pickup...sitting still is hard to turn the wheels (lots of resistance from ground friction) , but roll forward or backward and it turns lots easier. I'm betting that age and heat have hardened the rubber sleeve in the steering "motor" driven by the steering wheel (your drift was oil seepage around rollers from lack of sealing) I've replaced them in IHC's ('64 706 and '79 1486) and solved all your problems. A sleeve should be available or a complete kit with sleeve, rollers, and a new shaft seal (if your is leaking around steering shaft) Take care during disassembly that you donn't lose any rollers or you will HAVE to get a complete kit (Experience talking) If your rollers are pitted, grooved or rusted go for a complete kit. You can often find the kit from a hydraulic supply/repair place if you can't find a dealer supply as I think CharLynn furnished a lot of them. Good luck!!

Re(2): 1855 Steering

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 03:18:42 PM by Shep Va

Yes, I agree with you that the steering is working when there is the least resistance on the system. It started out that just the hardest of the turning was the problem, like when the loader was full and I was sitting still it was hard to steer. But it is progressing more and more and now it will not have power steering at all unless the steering is easy. I was thinking this was more of a pressure problem somewhere. I can steer the tractor manually when the power steering quits, even sitting still, and the steering motor on the wheel feels good, but it seems as though it loses pressure when the steering is tough. The front motor under the grill is the one that I suspect, it is the one that is leaking and has some play on the main shaft. I need to also check the system pressure, could a drop in the pressure on the entire system cause the steering to lose power?? Now that I think about it the loader has been losing some power too, maybe the entire system is low in pressure?? Good ideas, I will look at the tractor tonight and see what I can find.

Re(3): 1855 Steering

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 05:19:54 PM by Ron

The service manual has pages on all the things that could be wrong. My suggestion is to fix the leaks, change fluid and filter, and then check the pump pressure per the procedure in the manual. If the pump is worn you'll want to know that before you start all the other work as pumps are very expensive.

Re(4): 1855 Steering

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 12:12:17 PM by Shep Va

OK, I checked the system pressure and it was down to 1700psi. So I increased the pressure to 2200psi on the compensator valve and the steering came back some. I still cannot turn the steering when it is sitting still, but as soon as I start to move I have full steering again. So the lack of pressure was part of the problem, but I still think I have an issue somewhere. The pump is only 3 years old and it is the newer high output White pump instead of the Oliver one. I doubt anything is wrong with the pump and the filter was just changed at the last oil change about 60 hours ago.

Re(5): 1855 Steering

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 03:56:57 PM by Ron

I'd be interested in what the pump pressure was 3 years ago when the new pump was installed. If it was 2200 then and only 1700 (before adjustment) now then it sounds like the pump is wearing mighty fast. Certainly there may be more than one problem; even a tiny leak can drop pressure quite a bit and make low pump pressure seem much worse.

Re(6): 1855 Steering

IP: 67.2.249.44 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 06:20:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd get the steering unit under the radiator fixed and make sure that is all o.k. first. You've already raised your pressure.......... While you are working on that front end, make sure all of the bearings and the pitman shaft are all o.k. They can mess things up, also. I'd just proceed working through things and see what comes up. Larry


Oliver 1800 Seat

IP: 66.185.0.212 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 09:33:33 AM by Jim Smith

I just bought an Oliver 1800 C diesel. The seat cushion is gone. Is there an easy way to upgrade to a better seat? I am going to check into retrofitting an IH 56 series seat, but need to guidance on other options.

Re(1): Oliver 1800 Seat

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 09:39:22 AM by Ron

I took the whole deal to an upholstery shop. They made new cusions (seat and back) from high-density polyurethane foam and covered them in black naugahyde. Better than new for about $100.

Re(2): Oliver 1800 Seat

IP: 65.6.57.203 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 08:32:59 PM by George Steadman

Have adapted a few when the metal plates on the oliver originals were complete junk. I personally (don't laugh) like the Belarus seat the best. Probably the best thing I have seen on one of their tractors. Bought the seat off of a junked tractor for 15.00 made an adaptor plate out of scrap. Sits real nice.

Re(3): Oliver 1800 Seat

IP: 67.2.249.44 Posted on March 22, 2005 at 06:11:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I would go to a salvage yard and get a complete seat assembly off of an Oliver 50 series tractor. A complete seat assembly of of the 50 series will bolt right on to the 4 digit tractors. There are lots of possibilities. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 1800 Seat

IP: 64.12.116.202 Posted on March 25, 2005 at 11:14:09 AM by Dave Alvord

I get my all seats from Jerry Stair. He has the original style with the steel backs that go right on. Never a problem with them. They look great as well as being well built. You can go to the old site of Ricks Agri parts or look in the HPOCA magazine for the ad.


88 rowcrop

IP: 207.190.67.9 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 05:55:13 AM by curt

what size engine does a 88 rowcrop have? and how much power do they produce?

Re(1): 88 rowcrop

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 06:45:26 AM by Larry Harsin

The Fleetline 88 was 230 cu. in and 42 HP originally. Most of these have had the S88 sleeves and pistons installed to make them 265 cu. in and 55 HP. Larry


oliver 1250 gas

IP: 170.215.142.47 Posted on March 20, 2005 at 08:34:15 AM by darrell

I am looking at a oliver 1250 gas are parts available. Do you know value Of this tractor. Thanks for any help.

Re(1): oliver 1250 gas

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 20, 2005 at 06:50:25 PM by Ron

It's a Fiat 411 sold as an Oliver 1250. If you have a Fiat dealer nearby, you might be able to get parts for it.

Re(2): oliver 1250 gas

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on March 21, 2005 at 06:41:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Parts for the 1250 gas engine are very scarce. Some are non-existent. I can't put a value on it as I havn't seen any sell in our area. Larry


Oliver loader

IP: 4.143.168.195 Posted on March 19, 2005 at 07:05:10 AM by Greg

I have an Oliver 578 Loader that I removed from my 550 because it was a bit too heavy for manual steering. The unit is fully functional, only needs paint, and I was wondering what the value is? Any help would be appreciated!

Re(1): Oliver loader

IP: 67.2.242.36 Posted on March 19, 2005 at 10:54:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say in the range of $1500 - $2000. Larry


Tightening Harmonic balancer

IP: 207.162.171.68 Posted on March 18, 2005 at 09:23:47 PM by Tommy cannon

On an 1850 diesel with hydrpower how do hold the motor while you tighter the bolt? I put in gear and motor will turn. Evidently we didn't get it tight when we rebuilt the motor and lost the bolt. I didn't realise that it would move in gear. The parts man said it didn't show a lock washer do I need to use locktite? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks , Tommy

Re(1): Tightening Harmonic balancer

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 19, 2005 at 04:54:37 AM by Ron

There's lots of ways. An impact tool is best. You can also put a breaker bar on the wrench and whack it with a hammer. Loctite blue (not red) on clean threads will also help.

Re(2): Tightening Harmonic balancer

IP: 67.2.242.36 Posted on March 19, 2005 at 10:52:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the starter off and hold the fly wheel with a bar. It would be o.k. to use some Loctite on that bolt. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 67.4.151.166 Posted on March 17, 2005 at 11:37:30 PM by elijah quist

hey larry i asked you about a rod for a 70 a while ago and you said you might have one can you email me a price for it and shipping to center city mn i need one thanks

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.176 Posted on March 18, 2005 at 06:43:22 AM by Larry Harsin

Are you referring to a connecting rod? I have those for a 70. I'm emailing you for more info. Larry


77 vs. 88

IP: 207.190.67.9 Posted on March 16, 2005 at 04:54:17 AM by curt

what are the differences between the super 77 and super 88, what were they rated at for power? what size engines did they have? thanks.

Re(1): 77 vs. 88

IP: 67.2.249.116 Posted on March 16, 2005 at 06:45:59 AM by Larry Harsin

The S88 is just a larger tractor than the S77, both HP wise and weightwise. Overall dimensions are nearly the same. The S88 engine was 265 cu. in, 55 HP. The S77 engine was 216 cu. in, 42 HP. Larry


88 rowcrop

IP: 63.155.232.120 Posted on March 14, 2005 at 06:33:58 PM by wayne miley

Hello agian, Thank you for the info on the saginaw tractor parts. I was able to purchase a new 3pt. hitch for my 88 oliver. I now am having some trouble with the hydraulic system. I put all new lines and sylinders on the tractor, but it seemes to run very slow and labored on the up stroke, but very fast on the down stroke. It is equiped with the flow restricting valves on the side of the resavore. What should I do to try and increase my up speed? Thanks for your time. wayne

Re(1): 88 rowcrop

IP: 67.2.249.208 Posted on March 14, 2005 at 07:48:29 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to turn the restrictors out. You should take it apart. You may have a momentary restrictor, which is used for single acting cylinders. This consists of a spring and a plunger, whereas, the regular restrictor has a spring and a plunger that is slotted with a pin through it. If you have the momentary type of restrictor, simply remove the spring and plunger and discard them. That should do it. If you have the regular restrictor, turned in slows the speed of the cylinder. Backed out, increases the speed. Larry


rowcrop88 diesel

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on March 13, 2005 at 03:21:27 PM by Mike Havens

Larry,Would you be able to tell where i can find info on this tractor.What year it was made horsepower etc. Serial# is 4 502 223

Re(1): rowcrop88 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.176 Posted on March 13, 2005 at 08:37:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 88 was built in 1954. You can get an Operator's Manual from the museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net It will tell you all about your tractor. Larry


oliver hubs

IP: 69.4.106.103 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 04:54:25 PM by savin sundstrom

larry can you tell me what nine bolt hubs will work on 1937 oliver hart par 70 thanks savin

Re(1): oliver hubs

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 10:40:43 PM by Larry Harsin

The same 9 bolt hubs that work on the later 70's will work. Larry


S55 governor

IP: 63.188.113.111 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 03:06:24 PM by david

the governor bushing went out cracking the housing I replaced it with one off of a 770 and readjusted the linkage but now can't get it started could something else had happened that I should check(timing)? the parts dealer said the one from the 770 should work.

Re(1): S55 governor

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 10:39:02 PM by Larry Harsin

What caused the governor bushing to crack? Did something go through the timing gears? You are going to have to do some checking and see what is going on. Larry

Re(2): S55 governor

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 06:03:31 AM by David

The connecting rod from the governor to the carb. broke causing the tractor to rev up while I was off the tractor turning the snow plow around.By the time I got to the key to shut down the tractor the bushing went out. The timing question came about because after replacing the housing with one from a 660 or 770 and readjusting the linkage rod(due to the diff. style of housing arm) the tractor will not start. I got gas to the carb. and spark to the plugs but it will do is crank ,crank crank and crank but will not start. I didn't know what else to check every looked ok with the timing chain when replacing the housing. David

Re(3): S55 governor

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 06:05:21 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have damage to something you havn't discovered yet. Remove the valve cover and see if the valves are moving. Check to see if both valves are closed on the number 1 cylinder when top dead center shows up on the flywheel. Larry


1850 remotes

IP: 65.142.17.121 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 09:42:37 AM by mitchell

i just put a loader on my 1850 it's a 1968-9 model. i believe it has the old gear pump valve assembly with electric remotes. i plumbed my loader into the power beyond ports and put the plug inside the port that supplies the loader with fluid per the manual. as soon as i did that it robbed all the fluid for the remotes. is there anything i forgot to do?

Re(1): 1850 remotes

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 10:34:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Are you sure that your loader valve is an open center? You should be able to blow through the valve. Larry

Re(2): 1850 remotes

IP: 65.134.229.16 Posted on March 13, 2005 at 06:46:49 AM by mitchell

hey, larry thanks for the reply. last night i read some of the archives. my valve is a cross joystick valve and it's opencenter. when i bypassed the remotes with the internal 3/8" plug, i bypassed the remotes entirely by pluming into the 1" large port just below the 1/2" port on the side of the tractor facing the fender. i should have plumbed my return into the 1/2" bypass port on the fender side that i shut off with the internal 3/8" plug. keep up the great work larry. thanks for the site!


55 oliver

IP: 65.54.97.192 Posted on March 11, 2005 at 01:46:33 PM by Don Varnes

freind of mine say he has a oliver 55 not a super 55 was there such a oliver?

Re(1): 55 oliver IP: 65.117.137.164 Posted on March 11, 2005 at 05:34:41 PM by RockinB

NO Re(2): 55 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.218 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 07:33:03 AM by Larry Harsin

No. There was the S55 and the 550. Larry


Oliver 60 Standard

IP: 63.163.139.67 Posted on March 11, 2005 at 01:19:55 PM by Jeff Plumb

I am looking for a set of grill screens for a '47 Oliver 60 standard. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, she-the 60 standard-is leaking around the axle carrier up next to the rear end. Any easy way to take care of that or do I have to bite the bullet and remove the housing from the outside all the way to the inside?

Re(1): Oliver 60 Standard

IP: 67.2.248.218 Posted on March 12, 2005 at 07:31:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Arnold Meyer may have a set of grills. 507-372-7788 or Email: almeyer@frontiernet.net As far as the leak on the main frame, make sure the bolts are tight. If they are tight and it is still leaking, you are going to have to take it apart and either make a gasket or use silicone to seal it. Larry


1950 Oliver

IP: 4.159.125.16 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 08:47:10 AM by DON oakes

My 1950 Oliver has lost considerablelifting power on the 3pt and onthe remote cylinders. It is necessary to rev the engine up to lift. Is this an indication my pump is bad?

Re(1): 1950 Oliver

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 05:20:14 PM by Ron

Could be. There's a procedure in the service manual to check it. But I'd replace the fluid and filter first. Cures a lot of problems.

Re(2): 1950 Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.79 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 09:07:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is a good indication that your pump is getting weak. However, you might check the pressure and see if adding shims to the relief valve will help. If it doesn't, you can be sure you will have to take the hydraulic unit apart. Larry


1956 770 Price

IP: 65.110.254.188 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 08:08:07 AM by Jim

Larry, Is $3,900 a fair price for a 1965 770 that has a factory 3 pt, spin-out wheels, ps, power booster. Haven't seen it yet, but was told newer paint and overall pretty good tractor. Seemed just a little high to me.

Re(1): 1956 770 Price

IP: 67.2.248.79 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 09:04:10 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is a real good tractor and you like it, I don't think it is too high. In 1965, some of them were the flat topped fenders. If it is one of those, it is a good price. Even if it was a S77, if it is a nice tractor and you like it, the price isn't out of line. Larry


paint

IP: 209.206.224.39 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 07:47:44 AM by Al Kale

Am looking for the paint codes for a 1950 66 RC Green, Yellow and red Thank you

Re(1): paint

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 08:51:44 PM by j.ulmer

click on the sherry schaeffer link at the side of Larry's home page and click then on the FAQ (frequently asked questions) at the side of the Oliver Heritage Magazine home page and you will find a pretty fair chronology and reference

Re(2): paint

IP: 67.2.248.79 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 09:02:25 PM by Larry Harsin

The green is Dupont Dulux 019. The red is Martin Senour is 99L-3752. The yellow is 99L-11611. Larry

Re(3): paint

IP: 209.206.228.108 Posted on March 10, 2005 at 06:04:51 AM by Al Kale

Thank you very much, it sure helps Al


770 seat

IP: 4.143.179.54 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 08:15:31 PM by Mike

would a 1964 770 have a pan style seat from the factory ?

Re(1): 770 seat

IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 06:25:38 AM by Larry Harsin

There was an option of a pan seat or the deluxe seat. You had your choice. Larry


Super 55 pinion shaft - gear

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 08:13:57 PM by Larry

Several teeth on my pinion shaft are showing some fatique pits and flaking on on the current "drive side." Can I switch the shafts from side to side and drive off the unworn side of the gears? The bull gears still look good. Thanks for your assistance.

Re(1): Super 55 pinion shaft - gear

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 06:37:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, according to the parts book, they are the same on either side. Larry


70 engine rebuild kit

IP: 205.240.43.141 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 01:33:08 PM by Kelvin Olnger

do you know where I can get a engine rebuild kit for a oliver 70

Re(1): 70 engine rebuild kit

IP: 67.2.249.148 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 07:06:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Tom at O'Brien has gasket sets. I think you can get a kit from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 or Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9932. Larry


1963 Oliver 550 grill

IP: 65.186.91.219 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 08:53:30 PM by Richard Bistline

I recently bought a 1963 Oliver 550 gas tractor with no grill. Does the Oliver 550 have the flat fiberglass grill or the slightly rounded metal grill. The owner gave me a slightly rounded grill, but I wish to restore the tractor to the original condition, but I don't know the difference at this time. Thank you.

Re(1): 1963 Oliver 550 grill

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 10:22:19 PM by Larry Harsin

1963 is about the time that they changed and it could be either one. If you want the fiberglass grill, call Lyle Dumont 641-622-2592 or email: oliver@lisco.com I really think that the fiberglass one is the one that it should have. It is the latest style. Larry


block heater

IP: 65.87.41.73 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 01:39:49 PM by mike gooch

Larry my block heater went out. do you know the app. cost. I think i only need the plug part. I have a 1855 diesel. thank you

Re(1): block heater

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 02:53:29 PM by Ron

The last time I bought one it was about $35 for the heater and $15 for the cord from an AGCO dealer. They are supposedly getting hard to find.

Re(2): block heater

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 10:17:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I don' t know the cost. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): block heater

IP: 65.87.43.54 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 04:27:05 PM by mike

ron thanks for the info. I'm going to try the cord first. thanks mike


Oliver swather

IP: 130.76.96.19 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 09:38:33 AM by vernon

Larry I have an Oliver 502 swather. What can you tell me about them? Were they built by Oliver or by someone for them? This one has a rebuilt Wisconsin engine, new canvas and runs very nice.

Re(1): Oliver swather

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 10:15:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know who built them. Ask Sherry at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Sherry will know all about them. You can get an Operator's Manual for it from the museum in Charles City by emailing them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(1): Oliver swather

IP: 206.222.219.203 Posted on March 15, 2005 at 10:56:23 PM by bastar

The 502 swather was built in Canada by Kilbury Industries.


1800 rebuild

IP: 4.224.72.52 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 08:09:55 AM by curt

Larry thanks for all the info you share.... i recently rebuilt an 1800 gas and cant get it to run on all 6, only runs on 3 and 4. It is obvious that there is not enough vaccum to bring the fuel to the other cyls. have good plugs and fire, no fuel. what would cause this or where should i look to find a problem? ps compression is very good on all 6 thanks curt

Re(1): 1800 rebuild

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 09:21:16 AM by Ron

Start it up. Spray carb/choke cleaner directly on the parting line between the intake manifold and head, especially near the 1&2 and 5&6 ports. If the idle speed changes, you've found your vacuum leak. Can be a warped manifold, bad gasket, wrong bolt torque, rarely the head is warped. I'm betting on a warped manifold and it's easily corrected at any machine shop through resurfacing.

Re(2): 1800 rebuild

IP: 67.2.249.204 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 10:11:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Ron. There is a real good chance that the manifold is either warped or not mounted properly. Larry

Re(3): 1800 rebuild

IP: 4.224.72.161 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 08:00:34 AM by curt

Been through all that, manifold is completely sealed. I think the problelm is more serious that that. Just don't know what. Maybe cam not opening intakes soon enough??? Regrind not accurate? Still trying to figure it out..... thanks

Re(4): 1800 rebuild

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 04:52:47 PM by Ron

Pull the valve cover and start it to check to see if the valves are opening and closing on 1&2 and 5&6. Also put a vacuum gauge on it... you should see at least 18" at idle or else you have a leak.

Re(5): 1800 rebuild

IP: 4.252.236.193 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 05:43:05 PM by curt

All valves open and close... good compression on all cyls, guage said 6 to 9 " at idle. i'm stumped !!! thanks ron for your input curt

Re(6): 1800 rebuild

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 08:07:46 PM by Ron

You have an intake manifold leaking vacuum.

Re(7): 1800 rebuild

IP: 65.6.8.106 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 09:01:16 PM by George

Is the distributor firing on all 6. It seems wacky but the last 880 kept doing this, only thing that helped was changing the distributor.

Re(8): 1800 rebuild

IP: 4.252.236.77 Posted on March 8, 2005 at 09:08:55 PM by curt

changed dist. and went to points and back to elec. no help i assure you i don't have an intake leak, tried two diff intakes even sealed with rtv ,and diff carbs also..... thanks for the help

Re(9): 1800 rebuild

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 09:06:56 PM by J. Ulmer

They have directed you and you have been all around the manifold. Your compression was good so the guides should not be bad around stems and seals, but I remember in the late 60's when I worked for my scout master who was a mechanic who rebuilt those BIG 6 cylinder waukesha engines taken out of military equipment and used for irrigation engines that he had a problem (they were on natural gas and not gasoline) which he found by using the carb cleaner around the valve stems with the covers off and he had guides knurled too deepely or bad oil seals or something on newly machined heads. I remembered that was the first time I saw carb cleaner used as a fuel for leak detection and it stuck. Hope you find your problem!


77 & 88 Steering Parts

IP: 206.72.40.189 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 08:04:17 AM by Craig B

Where can i find replacement parts, the steering cast iron bearing holder and bearing that mounts midway on the steering shaft just below the knuckle and rubs the side shield when wore out.

Re(1): 77 & 88 Steering Parts

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on March 9, 2005 at 06:44:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1650 PTO shaft

IP: 216.190.67.113 Posted on March 6, 2005 at 09:44:48 PM by Steve Merritt

I had the hydraulic unit off my 1650. Now that I have the tractor all put back together, I cannot get the PTO shaft to go through the hydraulic pump idler gear. When look in there, everything seems to line up, but it is hard to see. When I stick in the shaft, I can feel the hole in the idler gear and can rotate the shaft to align with splines. Once the shaft is aligned with the splines, I can't turn it. I find it hard to believe, but is it possible when I put the hydraulic unit back on the two gears didn't mesh and they are binding? I don't recall any difficulty as far as the unit not wanting to go down all the way. One other thing, when I get the shaft into position and splines aligned and lightly tap on the end of the shaft with a rubber mallet, the idler gear gouges the shaft on one side. This makes me think the idler gear is crooked. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1650 PTO shaft

IP: 67.2.249.112 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 06:50:45 AM by Larry Harsin

This is a new one on me. Try loosening the bolts that hold the hydraulic unit down on the tractor. If that idler gear is binding, there is extreme pressure somewhere. You'll have to experiment a little. That idler gear shouldn't be bound up tight. If you still can't get it free, you may have to remove the hydraulic unit and see what happened. Larry

Re(2): 1650 PTO shaft

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 7, 2005 at 08:00:43 AM by Ron

This is a case where having a Service Manual handy is a big help. There are three different setups, a 540, a 1000, and a dual-speed 540/1000. The manual has a nice exploded diagram with the differences in parts and procedures noted.


1655 telescoping steering shaft stuck

IP: 67.182.177.244 Posted on March 6, 2005 at 10:36:48 AM by Todd Wiscal

I have a '75 1655 that has the 'push-button' release to telescope the steering shaft vs the earlier screw release center cap. The rubber cap was missing and release 'button' was froze when I purchased it. I have tried penetrating fluid and even light heat and tapping on the button and this seemed to indicate that the wedge or whatever locks the shaft down inside is froze up rather than the button itself. Any advise on what i have to disassemble to loosen it up?

Re(1): 1655 telescoping steering shaft stuck

IP: 67.2.248.53 Posted on March 6, 2005 at 06:39:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I have encountered this myself and have not been very successful at accomplishing this either. I am afraid to get too rough with it for fear of messing up the steering unit. There is a threaded collar below the steering wheel below the collumn. If you can get that unscrewed, you may be able to get some penetrating oil down in there where it will do more good. But use caution that you don't break something. You might check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. as to what they do. 800-320-6224. Larry


oliver 550

IP: 4.159.122.100 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 07:53:55 PM by Russ

Larry, I juat bought a oliver 550 ind, has a busted front frame, Are the super 55 and 550 center and front frames the same, Also would the indrustral model make a difference???

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 09:11:20 PM by Larry Harsin

I think I might have a frame. I'll check in the morning and see if they are the same and I'll email you. Larry


air intake on 1650

IP: 69.26.18.97 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 06:44:21 PM by Bill Wagner

The 1650 I just bought has one of those air intakes that has the pipe to the exhaust stack to suck out dirt. It's big and ugly and resticts forword vision, plus I don't think I will be using it in extreme dust. I am thinking about removing it. Can anyone help me find a simple replacement cap? It is a 3 inch pipe and does not need to be original equipment.

Re(1): air intake on 1650

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 09:08:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have one. Larry


1650 hydraulics

IP: 69.26.17.90 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 01:53:39 PM by Bill Wagner

I am planning on putting a DuAl 320 loader on my 1966, 1650 Oliver diesel. I would like to just use the tractor hyrdaulics for the loader. The loader has a grapple fork and a oil reservoir built into the left upright. Will the tractor hydraulic pump do the job? The pump is working fine. Should I use the extra oil reservoir or bypass it?

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 06:03:09 PM by Ron

I see no reason to use the reservoir. The 1650 should handle it fine. Be sure to set the valves on the pump for loader operation per the Operator's Manual.

Re(2): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 65.6.57.132 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 08:01:10 PM by George Steadman

If you do any work with the three point, I would fill the reservior to be on the safe side. We had to add one to the neighbors 1550 to keep adequate oil to the pump.

Re(3): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 09:05:22 PM by Larry Harsin

The Do-Al loader does take a lot of oil. However, the 1650 should have enough capacity to handle it. If I were doing this, I would install a 2 spool valve using the power beyond port to raise and lower the loader and bucket. And I would use one of the tractor's valves to run the grapple. Now, many of the Do-All users put a pump on the PTO and use the loader's reservoir and run it independently of the tractor's hydraulic system. These are just different things that you can do. Larry


Starting 88D

IP: 199.184.227.2 Posted on March 3, 2005 at 09:39:08 PM by Greg Mueller

Larry, I have purchased a Oliver 88 Diesel which has not been run for over a year. Dealer last ran it and drained the fuel from the engine at that time. I am going to install new fuel and oil filters along with new engine oil. Is there any precautions I need to take before priming the fuel system and trying to crank it? I thought I read somewhere that damage could be done to the injector pump if a calibration fuel is not used when trying to start. Any advice would be appreciated.

Re(1): Starting 88D

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on March 4, 2005 at 07:35:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I would not attempt to turn the engine until I had fuel circulating through the injection pump. Make sure you have fuel going through the injection head and returning to the tank. Then, leave it set for a few hours and try it. If it doesn't pump fuel, you may have to remove the little cover on the side of the injection head (it's held with 2 quarter inch cap screws). Then, check to see if the linkage between the governor arm and injection head is stuck. Sometimes this sticks and has to be freed up. Larry


1650 diesel starting

IP: 69.26.17.93 Posted on February 28, 2005 at 10:07:01 PM by Bill Wagner

I just bought a 1966 Oliver 1650 diesel. It seems to be in good shape and runs good. I have only started it once since I bought it and used a little eather. How effective is that manifold heater? How do I even know if it works? Any tips or tricks I should know? I am very excited about spring coming and getting to use the tractor to develop some wildlife food plots and tree plantings.

Re(1): 1650 diesel starting

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on March 1, 2005 at 02:13:30 AM by Ron

Use the starting procedure in the Operator's Manual and never, ever, use ether. It's very hard on the engine and an engine that has good compression and a good injector pump doesn't need it. If it gets cold where you are, get a block heater for it. It screws into the bottom radiator hose casting at the front of the block.

Re(2): 1650 diesel starting

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on March 1, 2005 at 07:21:27 AM by Larry Harsin

You can tell if the manifold heater is working by taking hold of the housing where the heater is installed. If there is warmth there, you know it is working. Larry


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