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"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" March, 2003 Archives
Oliver 1600
IP: 65.59.8.184 Posted on April 5, 2003 at 05:38:25 PM by Jim Johnston
Hi Larry,I have a chance to buy a 1962 Oliver 1600 Diesel.This tractor looks orginial with 7358 hours,tin is nice and straight.I ran this tractor and it runs great,I am a little new at this.What would this tractor be worth?Also I have tried to read all the disussion about Olivers,but I don,t see much on the 1600s,why is this? Thanks Jim
Re(1): Oliver 1600
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:51:37 PM by Larry Harsin
There aren't an awful lot of 1600's, maybe that is why you don't read much about them. The 1600 diesel is a well liked tractor. I would say it is worth from $3500 to $4500 providing it's all there and all in operating condition. Larry
One-way cylinders Setup
IP: 64.33.181.28 Posted on April 5, 2003 at 05:21:23 PM by Paul A. Ramey
I looked at a loader for my 770 today. It has a two Cylinder for the bucket that is hooked to the right side of the pump. The lift Cylinders for the main part of the loader are one-way/single action cylinders that are into one of the ports on the left side of the pump. It also has a hose that comes out for the return line and back into the pump to a port beside it. Is this a standard way to hook up single action cylinders to a Oliver 770? If not how do you set up for one way cylinders? Thanks Paul in WI
Re(1): One-way cylinders Setup
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:48:06 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes this is the way to hook it up. Larry
1855
IP: 209.166.136.19 Posted on April 5, 2003 at 02:08:45 PM by william e wingrove
Larry I just bought a 1855 oliver 1st question I think one of these may be a serial # 225 599 685 or 585 22411 what year and what motor would it have #2 the pto engages but wont stay engaged and it will keep turning you can stop it by pulling back hard on the lever is there an adjustment to keep the pto engaged #3 the 3pt. lift arms raise but very slow up #4 is there a depth control lever for the 3 pt or just the up down lever #5 where can i get parts for this tractor when needed
Re(1): 1855
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:45:56 PM by Larry Harsin
Your 1855 was built in 1971. The motor is a Waukesha 310. You will need an Operator's Manual. If you don't have one, you can get one from Charles City at email: fchs@fiai.net. 2. In the PTO, you may have to adjust the linkage from the lever to the control valve. If that doesn't fix it, you may have to get a mechanic to repair the PTO clutch assembly. 3. I would drain the unit and change the hydraulic filter. Be sure to read the Operator's Manual before you do this! And be sure to use the proper fluid as specified in the Operator's Manual. 4. That one lever does it all. 5. You can get parts from Tom at O'Brien Co. Imp. 800-320-6224. Larry
1750 special
IP: 216.51.171.135 Posted on April 4, 2003 at 11:50:08 PM by Duane
I got it bought need any and all info. Thanks Duane
Re(1): 1750 special
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:35:39 PM by Larry Harsin
Congratulations!! I've been wondering if you got it bought!! Contact Charles City and get an Operator's Manual for it. fchs@fiai.net Then get back to me. Larry
770 Oliver
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on April 4, 2003 at 07:43:54 PM by C. Neumann
Can you tell me what a RC 770 L.P. is worth. It has been shedded for years,the tires are shot,the hydralic pump is dry, sheet metal is rough and look like it has been run hard.
Re(1): 770 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:33:11 PM by Larry Harsin
I would not want to give more than $700 or $800 for it. Larry
1650 hydraulics
IP: 67.2.242.37 Posted on April 4, 2003 at 07:35:57 PM by Ken Tanner
Larry, I just installed a Westendorf WL30 loader on my recently purchased 1650. The right control lever is not working properly. When I pull it back it raises the loader fine. When I push it forward it will let the loader down very slowly. I have to rev the engine way up to get the loader to go down. The lever also seems to rotate too far in both directions compared to the left hand levcr. Where do I begin?
Re(1): 1650 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:31:43 PM by Larry Harsin
That right hand lever (valve) is probably set for one-way operation. Look at your Operator's manual to see what to do. You will have to turn the screw up on the valve body in. For the rotation problem, you probably have a key sheared inside where the lever moves the control valve. You will have to remove the top cover where the seat is bolted on. Unbolt that casting and lift it off and you will see what is broken. Larry
550 price?
IP: 216.106.56.17 Posted on April 3, 2003 at 08:08:37 PM by Jason Epperson
I found anld 550 today. I looked up the serial number and it is a 59 model. It is sitting in a weed patch and has been there for several years. The tires need replacing and the back rims are shot. I don't think it is stuck but would need some attention to get it running again. The sheet metal is all there including the emblem above the grill but everything is starting to get weathered looking. What do you think a tractor like this would be worth? Thank you.
Re(1): 550 price?
IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on April 4, 2003 at 06:23:01 AM by Larry Harsin
As it sets, $1000. Larry
1800 hydraulics
IP: 216.106.56.36 Posted on April 2, 2003 at 08:33:46 PM by Jason Epperson
Larry, I just purchased a 15 FT. Batwing mower with single acting cylinders on the wings and main lift both. Is there a way I can use both outlets an my 1800 C for single acting cylinders? The manual says just one side only. Why?? Thank you.
Re(1): 1800 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on April 2, 2003 at 09:54:01 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think you can. I can't explain why, but the book is correct. Larry
Re(2): 1800 hydraulics
IP: 216.106.56.17 Posted on April 3, 2003 at 08:10:59 PM by Jason Epperson
If I were to plumb a two-way valve with float positions into the power beyond circuit would this do me any good?
Re(3): 1800 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on April 4, 2003 at 06:21:29 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it would work. Larry
Re(4): 1800 hydraulics
IP: 68.155.12.22 Posted on April 4, 2003 at 09:42:50 AM by George Steadman
Jason, you can take a short hose and hook the couplers that you are not using together this will complete the circuit. It has worked on our 1650 and 1850 to make dual single acting work.
1850
IP: 65.58.68.111 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 07:41:47 PM by john bedwell
larry, i also have an 1850 with perkins diesel in it. just fired it up today and it showing a little oil at the top of the muffler and a little around exhaust manifold. it this a bad sign?
Re(1): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 10:27:25 PM by Larry Harsin
Not necessarily. If it hasn't been worked very hard and warmed up thoroughly it is not unusual for this to happen. Larry
550 Brake Crossover shaft
IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 12:20:45 AM by Greg
My I&T manual says nothing about my brake crossover shaft. I'm trying to heat & beat off the brake activator casting on the left side where my seal leaks. Does this shaft just pass through the transmission case with no engagement into anything else? If I can't work loose the casting, I'm thinking I'll have to pull the entire shaft through after removing all the stuff on the right side of the shaft. I'm thinking I can just pull it through without taking off the PTO case top half. Am I correct? Greg
Re(1): 550 Brake Crossover shaft
IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 10:25:35 PM by Larry Harsin
You should be able to get the activtor off the left side. It is keyed on there. Loosen the bolt and that piece should slide off. Then you can replace the seal. If you can't get it off, go over to the right side and remove those pedals. The pedal for the left brake is keyed onto that shaft. You will have to take the key out of that shaft before you can slide the shaft out of the housing. Larry
What is it????
IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 09:51:51 AM by Joe Shaffer
Hi I just bought a oliver tractor and have no clue what it is(size) or year. the numbers that I got off the plate on the left side of the tractor are. 415-21003 217-889-019 I don't have a clue what it is and it has been repainted a bad green and white and I think they brushed it on.. Thank you for your time. Joe P.S. This is a great web site...Keep up the good work.
Re(1): What is it????
IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 10:17:51 PM by Larry Harsin
We would like more discription of the tractor. Is it a Row Crop style or a Utility? Is it a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder? With the 217889 serial number it could be a 70RC. 70's had the tag on the engine block on the left, so did 60's. Is this tag on the engine block? Does the tag say which number is the serial number? If it is a 60 or a 70 it would say so on the tag. Larry
Re(1): What is it????
IP: 209.50.4.212 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 11:28:18 PM by B A Star
Your tractor with a specification number of 415, is a 550. It was built with an adjustable front axle and had a gas engine. It was built in 1969.
Re(3): What is it????
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on April 2, 2003 at 12:31:56 AM by Larry Harsin
Duane Starr has this identified for you. A 1969 550 has live PTO. If you have a lever on the rear right of the seat, you push the lever back to engage the PTO. You can get an Operator's Manual and/or a Service Manual from Charles City. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(4): What is it????
IP: 68.103.104.91 Posted on April 3, 2003 at 11:38:23 AM by Joe Shaffer
Once again you guys have helped... Thank you...Joe
plow
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 07:07:57 AM by mm
Larry: Do you think a 5-16 plow on a older 1850(D) would be to much on a silt loom type soil. Would a 4-16 be better even though I have a good buy on a 5-16. Can you remove one of the blades to make a 4-16 Thxs
Re(1): plow
IP: 209.163.7.18 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 10:08:02 PM by Larry Harsin
You may be able to cut it down to a 4 bottom. But I think that 1850 will handle the 5 bottom o.k. Larry
oliver row crop 60
IP: 207.221.253.196 Posted on March 31, 2003 at 08:38:45 PM by allen meyer
i'm haven proablems with it it runs but dies after a while running like 15 to 20 minutes its got fire to the plugs and seems to be getting gas but i think the proablem is in the carb
Re(1): oliver row crop 60
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:42:26 AM by Larry Harsin
It could be electrical or it could be fuel - either one. You could have an ignition coil that breaks down after it gets warmed up. You could have foreign material (dirt or it usually is spiders or webs) in the neck of the fuel tank - this is a common problem. If you find these things o.k., remove the carb, disassemble and blow it out with compressed air. Larry
1750 tire size
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on March 30, 2003 at 08:49:58 AM by Phil
What size tires came on the 1750 from the factory?
Re(1): 1750 tire size
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:37:49 AM by Larry Harsin
For our area the most popular size was: 18.4x34 for the rear and 7.50x16 for the front. Larry
Re(2): 1750 tire size
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 01:33:27 PM by Carl
Larry, I have found that 11L-15 front tires are a nicer fit than the factory original 7.50-16's for this tractor. I think you get better flotation and in my opinion I think 11L-15's look better to. Of course some guys are into original restorations for shows, but if this is a working tractor, go 11L-15's!
Re(3): 1750 tire size
IP: 64.12.96.45 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 09:46:03 PM by Phil
Carl, I've got 7.50=18's on the front. but I'm going to 11L-15. Like you say, I think they look better. Phil
electrial
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on March 29, 2003 at 06:15:38 PM by doug
I just got a 1941 oliver 60 row crop is it a positive ground or negtiave ground and also is it a 6 volt system. how much horse power is it.
Re(1): electrial
IP: 143.115.159.53 Posted on March 30, 2003 at 11:07:15 PM by Larry
Almost all 6 volt systems are positive ground. As for horsepower and other data, I recommend a website www.tractordata.com. It has all that information on almost every tractor.
Re(2): electrial
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:36:03 AM by Larry Harsin
The tractor is 6 volt postive ground. When new it had 16 hp. Larry
1250 Oliver
IP: 216.111.20.122 Posted on March 28, 2003 at 08:05:36 PM by John
My family currently owns and uses a 1250 Oliver that belonged to my grandfather. He wrote in the owners manual; it is a mod.#125-2212, ser.#714795. Can you give me information such as year manufactured, worth, specs., and if you have replacement parts.
Re(1): 1250 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:34:09 AM by Larry Harsin
Your 1250 was built in 1966. Worth is hard to say. It depends on condition and the options that came on it. Also if it is complete with all the tin etc. It could be worth from $1500 to $3000. This tractor was built by Fiat. The engine had 35 hp. It weighed approx. 3600 lbs. and originally sold for approx $3750 (new). You may find parts at: www.ricksagriparts.com or you could check with Danny Bowes at: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry
White 2-70
IP: 216.74.205.222 Posted on March 28, 2003 at 08:32:31 AM by Roger
Larry, to change the clutch and pressure plate on a white 2-70, does one have to pull the pto shaft?
Re(1): White 2-70
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on March 28, 2003 at 04:23:24 PM by Carl
Roger, you don't pull the pto shaft itself, but instead there is cover directly above the PTO shaft. Take that cover off. You will see a shaft under this cover. This is the shaft that you must pull. The snap ring that you see right away is not the one you remove. There is another snap ring kind of "underneath"(hard to describethe location). That is the one you pull off to get the shaft out. You will need a good snap ring pliers. The shaft you pull out is quite long, I think maybe six foot or so. Maybe Larry can do a better job of describing which snap ring you need to pull.
Re(2): White 2-70
IP: 12.172.241.88 Posted on March 28, 2003 at 04:59:41 PM by m kuhns
The first C-clip snap ring you see just holds on the clutch hub. The hub has two ovals in it. You may have to turn the hub to see the ends to squeeze them together. Just pull the snap ring back and leave it there and pull the shaft.
Re(3): White 2-70
IP: 216.74.205.60 Posted on March 28, 2003 at 05:44:41 PM by Roger
Thanks for the info guys.
Re(4): White 2-70
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:27:17 AM by Larry Harsin
They have given you the correct information about the snap ring. The thing I would do besides this is to engage the PTO clutch before removing the shaft assembly, so that the clutch plates will remain lined up as you remove it. Sorry to be slow in answering. We have been gone to the National HPOCA Meeting in St. Louis. Larry
Re(5): White 2-70
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 01:22:04 PM by Carl
Larry that is an excellent idea, I wish I had done that when I pulled the shaft out of my 1655. I had to line up all the ears on the plates and stuff them in the hub. Its like doing a jig saw puzzle.
1750 oil presure
IP: 65.58.67.209 Posted on March 27, 2003 at 07:08:53 PM by john bedwell
oil presure in 1750 diesel is running about 40lbs, either at idile or fast throttle, is that normal?
Re(1): 1750 oil presure
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:22:17 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, that is normal. Larry
77 radiator
IP: 63.160.15.131 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 11:56:41 AM by Wade (PA)
Will a radiator from a 77 diesel work in a 77 gas tractor? Thx.
Re(1): 77 radiator
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 01:07:53 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it will work. Larry
770 loader
IP: 209.143.34.35 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 08:28:34 AM by Doug Fark
Hi Larry, What make and model of loader would you recommend for a 770 wide front? We would prefer a later model loader that is quick attach. Also, this loader may go on a 4020 in the future, so I would like to buy one that fits both models except for brackets, etc. Is there anything else I should know before attempting to put a loader on a 770? It has dual hyd. Thanks, Doug
Re(1): 770 loader
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 01:06:46 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Westendorf and Allied. I don't know if you can get a loader that will fit both of those tractors and still be quick attach. You'll have to check around your area and see what is available. In our area the Westendorf is the loader of choice, but I'm not knowledgeable on the newer loaders and if they'll fit these 2 tractors. For the 770 I reccommend using a 2 spool control valve and plumbing into the power beyond port for the loader. Larry
Re(2): 770 loader
IP: 209.143.34.120 Posted on March 27, 2003 at 08:30:27 PM by Doug Fark
Where is the power beyond port? You're talking about a different port than the remotes? What about the return line? Thanks, Doug Fark
Re(3): 770 loader
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:21:10 AM by Larry Harsin
The power beyond port is on the left side of the hydraulic unit just ahead of where the front port for the remote cylinder is. It also will be plugged with a 1/2" pipe plug. After removing this plug, you will find a threaded passage that requires a socket headed 3/8" pipe plug. This will cause the oil to come out to a remote valve then the remote valve oil should be returned to a port on the front of the casting where the hydraulic filter is. This is a 3/8" inlet port. You may have to loosen the dash on the tractor and shift it forward slightly to be able to remove this plug. That should do it. Larry
super 55 lift
IP: 24.159.35.152 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 07:40:47 AM by michael mccloud
my super 55 is leaking oil around the lift arms, how big of a job is this to replace oil seals and possible bushings?
Re(1): super 55 lift
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 01:00:52 PM by Larry Harsin
It's a big job. You have to take the top off the tractor with the arms attached. Then disassemble the arms and put in your new parts. Larry
trans fluid
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 06:56:15 AM by jj
What type/brand transmission fluid do you recommend. On the dip stick mine say use type A transmission fluid. On a 1850(D) Thank You in advance
Re(1): trans fluid
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 12:59:04 AM by Larry Harsin
Just use Mercon or Universal Automatic Fluid. They supercede type A. Larry
Re(2): trans fluid
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 01:57:57 PM by jj
Is universal trans/hydralic fluid ok
Re(3): trans fluid
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:15:36 AM by Larry Harsin
It probably is. Larry
77 starting problem
IP: 63.205.26.206 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 03:42:45 PM by rob
I am attempting my first tractor restoration with a '50 77 RC, gas. The problem is, if I were to shut if off,if it dies or run out of gas it will not restart.... for several hours. Just cranks until the battery runs down. I it will start once and sounds great but does seem to be under powdered though. I am just learning to work on tractors so I hope someone can point me in the right direction. Thank very much for your help.
Re(1): 77 starting problem
IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:43:58 PM by Larry Harsin
You may have bad ignition points or a bad coil. If those check out o.k. you may have a problem in the wiring where you aren't getting good current to the coil. Check the spark plug and coil wires and make sure they are good. Is there plenty of gas at the carbeurator. Larry
'51 Oliver 66 clutch
IP: 136.160.129.193 Posted on March 24, 2003 at 06:13:18 PM by Clint
Larry, I've been reading several post about RC66 clutch replacement and some say it can be done with out removing the engine. The IT book I have says it has to come out. It looks like I'll put both the throw out bushing and the clutch assy in at the same time. Can it be done both ways? I have to do mine. I have PTO and mech lift on this tractor.. thanks
Re(1): '51 Oliver 66 clutch
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:57:22 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, you can do the clutch without removing the engine. The 66 is easy. You do have to remove the long PTO drive shaft first. Then unbolt the couppling on the engine drive shaft and unbolt the clutch housing and just slide it back and then you can do your clutch job. Larry
Re(2): '51 Oliver 66 clutch
IP: 136.160.129.193 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 11:28:09 AM by Clint
I forgot to mention I also have a belt pulley in this 66. Will that make a difference?
Re(3): '51 Oliver 66 clutch
IP: 209.163.7.15 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:39:41 PM by Larry Harsin
No. You don't have to worry about the belt pulley. Larry
Oil seals - Super 55, 3 ph
IP: 192.219.127.235 Posted on March 24, 2003 at 10:12:14 AM by Stu
Larry, Where can I get the oils seals and bushings for the 3 ph cross shaft in the hydraulic system of my Super 55 HC? Mine leak badly, its a mess. I want to stop the leaks so I can clean it up to paint.
Re(1): Oil seals - Super 55, 3 ph
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:54:27 AM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 Larry
1855 stalling
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on March 23, 2003 at 01:15:50 AM by matt mcferren
i own 2 olivers one is a 1950 and the other an 1855. i have had alot of trouble with the 1855, but my most recent question is about the tractor stalling. it will start up okay but it will only run for a short time. it seems to be running out of fuel but if i pull the line to the pump there is fuel there. i was wondering if you have any ideas on what might be causeing this. i have already changed the filter. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Re(1): 1855 stalling
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:50:19 AM by Larry Harsin
I think there may be a screen in the pump where you disconnect that line. Check that to see if it is plugged. The next thing to check is to see if there is a restriction in the fuel strainer where it comes out of the tank. I would remove that strainer and clean it out. It might have something in there. Is the transfer pump on the right side of the engine working properly to keep the fuel pressurized to the injection pump? Larry
70RC Distributor timing
IP: 209.163.99.65 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 09:41:04 PM by Keith
I'm working on restoring a '38 70RC (5 gear engine) and it has a distributor rather than a magneto. The service manual I have only has instructions for timing a magneto to the engine. What is the proper procedure for timing the distributor? There is a timing mark on the flywheel which currently seems to correspond to TDC on the #6 cylinder. The only other marks I can see are labeled "oil ign" and I've read those are for the KD engine and this has the HC engine.
Re(1): 70RC Distributor timing
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:53:12 AM by Larry Harsin
I would have it timed so that spark occurs at TDC when the engine is idling. Then as you speed the engine up, the distributor should advance and come out somewhere at ign on the flywheel with the engine running at full throttle. Larry
Replacing Clutch in 88 -- What else to check?
IP: 207.230.193.55 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 05:49:52 PM by Kilian
I will be replacing the clutch in my RC 88 in the near future. What else should I check out/replace while in their? I plan on replacing the throw-out bearing. What about the hydraulic pump/unit, since I will be taking off the unit to get to the clutch--how hard is it to replace seals, etc.?
Re(1): Replacing Clutch in 88 -- What else to check?
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:46:38 AM by Larry Harsin
I would make sure the rear crankshaft seal is not leaking and replace if necessary. Also, make sure the pilot bearing is good and probably replace it. Check to see if the flywheel is nice and smoothe, if not have it resurfaced. If the pump is working good and not leaking oil, I would not touch it. You don't have to disturb the hydraulic unit to work on the clutch. Larry
Re(2): Replacing Clutch in 88 -- What else to check?
IP: 207.230.193.11 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 07:46:33 AM by Kilian
Thanks for the information.
1750 Running Problem
IP: 65.124.18.174 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 09:25:35 AM by JB
Hello I am working on a 1750 Diesel Engine That has been Overhauled and Has Trouble Starting and Runs Rough for aprox 1 Min after Startup . It has new Piston,Sleeves,Rings,Bearings(crank ground) New Exaust Valves.Springs Ect. Has Rebuilt Injectors and Rebuilt Pump. Engine has had Block Replaced With 1800 Block. Compression is around 320-340 all Cylinders at Cranking Speed. I have Tried Changing Spacers under Injector but no Help. Tractor Exaust stays Gray even after warming up but will clear up under load and runs good. But engine should run clear after Starting. Tractor Starts Very Hard. Question? Is Compression High Enough? Oliver Dealers are telling me this is good enough but I am not so sure. Any Ideas? Thank you for your Time. JB
Re(1): 1750 Running Problem
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:40:16 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it probably is good enough. I'd go back and recheck the timing for the first thing. Also, try some fresh fuel. You might have some stale fuel in it. Larry
Re(1): 1750 Running Problem
IP: 65.124.18.140 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 03:34:05 PM by JB
I have Found the Problem after taking Running Compression Test I found Low Compression on all Clys After Dissasembly of Engine it was found that pistons are manufactured Incorrectly Valve Resses are two deep and Combustion Cup two deep . Thanks
Re(2): 1750 Running Problem
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on March 25, 2003 at 06:42:11 AM by Larry Harsin
Glad you found the problem!!! I wonder what those pistons you had in there were for!!! Larry
Oliver HG Crawler
IP: 67.3.62.222 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 09:05:43 PM by Philip Lord
Hi Larry, I have a 1942 Oliver HG crawler that is in good condition except that I noticed The right track idler was worn to a knife edge. Now that I've replaced discrepant idler I see the tracks seem to be causing excessive wear[paint removal & metal flakes] to the new idler I installed. The left side looks to be factory original and shows none of the same wear patterns. Do you know of an adjustment I can make? Thanks, Phil
Re(1): Oliver HG Crawler
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 05:36:52 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Landis Zimmerman at zoc@att.net. He can help you with that better than I can. Larry
oliver1750
IP: 65.56.10.130 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 08:41:55 PM by John Bedwell
im in the final stage of restoring my 1750, and thinking about putting a loader on it, what would be the best available loader to use?, and where to get it. Indianapolis-Indiana
Re(1): oliver1750
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 05:34:32 AM by Larry Harsin
There are lots of choices. It depends a lot on what you plan to do with it and how much money you want to spend. In our area (NW Iowa) Westendorf loaders are the most popular. A good used one with the correct brackets and mounted will run approx. $3000 - $3500. I have contacts with a manufacturer who can furnish a NEW Vaughn loader for approx. the same money. I feel for the money it is a good unit. Good used loaders are hard to find. Larry
Re(2): oliver1750
IP: 65.58.71.120 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 07:26:23 PM by john bedwell
hello larry, can u send me the info on the westendorf and vaughn loaders? would be interested in new or used, maybe a dealer closer to indianapolis, thanks- whats the story on that 2655, ive never scene one before, how much$
Re(3): oliver1750
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:49:31 AM by Larry Harsin
For Westendorf, call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. He is a dealer and can tell you how to contact Westendorf for a dealer nearest you. For the Vaughn loader call Langer Mfg Co at 507-835-2197. There were 700 2655's built in 1971. Not many have survived. I want $8500 for it. Larry
550 Clutch saga
IP: 205.184.103.65 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 07:37:28 PM by Greg
Per the posting earlier... 550 clutch repair that grinds when I try to shift into gear. I adjusted pedal travel to zero inches and she still grinds. Then opened PTO access plate and watched fork press fingers in and could see pressure plate move away from disc. I then pulled the coil wire, blocked the wheels and cranked it while in gear. She lurched forward, then in reverse she lurched rearward. Did this fore and aft twice to break a sticky situation. Still grinds. I then decided it was time to split her open. Everything looked good. Removed the pressure plate and the disc was loose (not rusted tight). The long portion of the clutch hub was toward the flywheel as it has to be. So I'm thinking that the pressure plate (original) does not work with the new clutch disc I replaced it with. I bought this new from Korves. The old disc was rotted terribly bad and I do not know what the thickness was. The new clutch measures 0.336" thick and is riveted design. Seems that my fork will travel about 1/2" and that might be insufficient to disengage clutch. Pressure plate is adjustable, but I don't know what to set it at. I&T says 1 15/16" with 0.285" spacer instead of disk....measured from where to where? Can anyone help??
Re(1): 550 Clutch saga
IP: 207.192.238.21 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 09:42:16 PM by William Wagner
I have a 550 split right now and have not removed the clutch and pressure plate. I'am about to put it back together after a trans. overhaul. The clutch worked fine and the disc has a good thickness left. Is there anything I could look at or measure for you on my unit before I assemble it?
Re(2): 550 Clutch saga
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 05:29:23 AM by Larry Harsin
Greg, You are going to have to get some keystock that measures .330 and space 3 pieces of that keystock between your flywheel and your pressure plate and bolt it down. Then measure from the surface on the finger that contacts the throwout bearing, to the flywheel hub. This distance is 3 11/16 inch plus or minus 1/32 inch. This specification is to the flywheel hub and this for instance would be if the flywheel is laying on the bench and you bolted the pressure plate to it. Now, if you have the flywheel still installed in the tractor. To do this you measure from the flywheel face (where the clutch disc contacts the flywheel) to the same point on the clutch finger as before. This measurement is 1 15/16 inch, plus or minus 1/32 inch. I have found that these fingers are often out of adjustment due to normal wear. However, something could be broken in one of those finger assemblies on the pressure plate. Look these over thoroughly. There are metal clips that connect the finger to the cast iron plate, these help to pull the plate back as the clutch is released. They are called return clips. You may have to remove those return clips to adjust the fingers. So be certain that these are not broken and are properly installed after you make your adjustments. Larry
1800 C Gas
IP: 216.106.56.24 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 04:37:43 PM by Jason Epperson
I just finished rebuilding the engine and power steering on my 1800 C series gas tractor. The engine sounds real good but the hydra-power is making an awful lot of noise. While I had it out, I put in new seals on the input and output shafts along with new drive sprockets and chain for the coupler. Now when I have the clutch engaged there seems to be a vibration coming from the hydra-power and going into the transmission. When I put the hydra-power in the low side it isn,t as bad. I changed the fluid and filter and it is at the correct level. Do I need to split this thing apart again? Also I noticed oil coming from the power steering cylinder. It is coming out of the little hole that allows access to the snap ring so you can get it out. I put in new seals and o-rings. Is there a special way of putting the end cap on that I don't know about? Thank you
Re(1): 1800 C Gas
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 05:07:28 AM by Larry Harsin
You may have a loose out put shaft. You may not have gotten the bearings set up properly so that they are loose. If this is the case, you'll have to remove that unit and start over by pulling the engine and the hydra power back out. If the unit is vibrating, something is screwed up. If you take it apart again and find some worn parts, I do have some hydra power parts. Email me about these if you need them. There isn't a special way of putting the end cap on, but you have to be real careful with the "O" rings. If they are twisted it will leak. Larry
Re(2): 1800 C Gas
IP: 216.106.56.57 Posted on March 21, 2003 at 06:41:01 PM by Jason Epperson
I am going to pull the engine and hydra-power back out. I didn't have the grill or sheetmetal back on yet so it won't be so bad except for that darn chain coupler. That thing is a pain to get at. Thank you for your help.
oil pressure
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 06:36:12 AM by mm
What is acceptable oil pressure on a 1850 (D). Mine start at 40psi and then increases to 50-55 and constant at all speeds
Re(1): oil pressure
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 06:59:06 AM by Larry Harsin
That sounds good to me!! Larry
hydraul removel
IP: 165.247.132.166 Posted on March 19, 2003 at 11:28:51 PM by glenn perry
Mr. Harsins: Oliver 1950T I have it half into,fuel tank removed,lines and other parts removed.Question--can I remove the hydraul without removing the engine from the frame?also in looking at oliver parts on the web I don't see any rebuilt hydrauls offered nor kits to rebuild one am I looking at the wrong places?what is the horse power of the oliver 1950T six cylinder diesel and what does the (T) stand for? I would assume (turbo charged)but other olivers have turbo chargers and not labeled with the (T) Thanks for your time Glenn Perry Wendell,North Carolina
Re(1): hydraul removel
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 06:57:40 AM by Larry Harsin
No, you'll have to remove the engine. Pull it all out together. Before you start to lift the engine, be sure you remove the long drive shaft that runs the PTO and the hydraulic. Be sure to remove the coupling chain also before you try to move the engine. Check with you AGCO Dealer for hydraul parts or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The horsepower is 105. The "T" does mean turbo charged. They labeled it that way as that was the first model that had a turbo. Larry
550 oliver trans. bearing
IP: 207.192.238.108 Posted on March 19, 2003 at 07:52:56 PM by William R. Wagner
I'am rebuilding the transmission in a 550 oliver and have found that the thrust bearings between the bullgear pinions and the ring gear hub are no longer manufactured. The bearing in question is a ball type with the washer parts of the assembly banded thus sandwiching the balls in the middle. The part# from my local dealer is ES- 5020, and the bearing #/manufacturer is AETNA-2298 which is no longer making this bearing and has no replacement. I need two. Can you help me?
Re(1): 550 oliver trans. bearing
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on March 19, 2003 at 07:57:34 PM by Larry Harsin
No, I don't have much for 550 parts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
1655 diesel
IP: 216.28.211.238 Posted on March 18, 2003 at 07:22:06 AM by larry hardin
trying to check on value and costs of a 1655 diesel I found. It needs a clutch, and probably an overhaul. It starts and sounds good, but it has a little oil running down the exhaust manifold under the muffler. Owner says he bought it at an auction from original owner, and says it has 8000 hours on it and never been apart. Is this possible? It has an over/under, 95,8.4/34 rears, and 50% fronts. good sheetmetal, but rusted fenders from the mounts( the usual rust spot) I can buy it for 3500.00 What do you think? Thanks
Re(1): 1655 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on March 18, 2003 at 10:21:04 PM by Larry Harsin
You are going to have to put a clutch and overhaul into it right away. That will cost approx. $2000 - $3000. So you will have approx. $5000 - $6000 in it. Also, while you have the engine out, you should check out the hydraul. That could be another $500 - $1000 for that if it needs work. Larry
1750 hydraulics
IP: 65.58.126.214 Posted on March 18, 2003 at 05:50:02 AM by Ron Hansen
I enjoy your website very much. Is there any way I can operate my crop sprayer with a single action cylinder on each side of the boom using my 1750 w/hydra electric setup? My problem is that when I activate one of the cylinders to raise the boom, both cylinders get pressurized and both booms go up. Is this normal and if so, is there any way to modify the system to make this work?
Re(1): 1750 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on March 18, 2003 at 06:41:12 AM by Larry Harsin
You will have to plumb a remote external valve into the hydraulic system and operate these cylinders with an external valve. We have explained how to do this in a former archive. If you can't find it or if you don't already know how, let us know and we will explain again how to do it. Larry
oliver1855
IP: 65.58.70.35 Posted on March 17, 2003 at 07:44:45 PM by john bedwell
i recently purchased an oliver1855, and i have been reading info on the perkins engine in this model not having an oil cooler, i read most still in operation should have had been updated with an oil cooler, i noticied where the oil filter is there are 2 hoses coming of the filter base, and go into other coolant lines on the engine, are these factory installed lines? or was this the update? it has 3000hrs on it and runs good, should i be cocerned about anything else on this tractor?
Re(1): oliver1855
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on March 18, 2003 at 06:35:07 AM by Larry Harsin
That was a later upgrade which helped cool the oil. If the oil pressure is normal, I wouldn't be concerned. But if the oil pressure is lower than normal, I would remove the oil pan and check the crankshaft bearings. Larry
Re(2): oliver1855
IP: 205.188.208.37 Posted on March 19, 2003 at 08:41:33 PM by Don-WI
Also note, the 1850 had the perkins, which was a very good engine. the 1855 had the waukeshaw 310 that had some problems at first. Donovan
Oliver 88 Diesel
IP: 165.128.0.52 Posted on March 17, 2003 at 04:00:11 PM by Benjamin Harrison
Hi I have a Oliver 88 Diesel Row Crop. And I need to replace the Clutch plate and pressure Plate. How easy or hard of a task is that going to be??
Re(1): Oliver 88 Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on March 17, 2003 at 06:32:24 PM by Larry Harsin
First of all you have to remove the long PTO drive shaft that goes up to the engine. You'll have to remove the hood and the fuel tank. I would unbolt the dash from the frame and unhook the light wires and then lay the dash up over the top of the engine and tie it. Then you'll have to unbolt the coupling between the clutch shaft and the transmission input shaft. If the tractor does not have a belt pully, you will simply have to unbolt the clutch bell housing and there you are. However, if the tractor is equipped with a belt pulley, you need to remove the belt pulley drive assembly before you can get to the clutch. Larry
880 diesel
IP: 169.207.45.145
Posted on March 16, 2003 at 01:41:19 PM by Mark Larry I just had the injectors and pump rebuilt for my 1962 880 diesel. I installed the pump at the timing mark with the flywheel at 26 degrees BTDC or 2 63/64" BTDC, or at least as close as I could to that. I have reinstalled the injectors and clean energy cells. The filter will be replaced and lines blown clean. Before I bleed the lines I would like to know if this all sounds correct and is there anything I should do or change. Also, is there some fine tuning to do after the initial start (providing it does start)? Thank you sir.
Re(1): 880 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on March 17, 2003 at 06:33:05 AM by Larry Harsin
It sounds o.k. to me. After your initial start of the tractor, you could recheck your timing. If that is o.k., I'd say you have it. Larry
Re(2): 880 diesel
IP: 169.207.45.82 Posted on March 19, 2003 at 11:23:32 PM by Mark
Larry, I retimed after an initial start to correct. It was only slightly off and I suspect the movement is attributable to not having the pump gear aligned exactly with the 2 attaching bolts. Regardless, the tractor will not remain running on its own without starting fluid. I found another manual at home that suggests the timing should be 25 degrees vs. 26 in the other manual. I have the governor pulled down and the fuel stop pushed in. After a spray of starter fluid it will start, then slowly reduces to low idle and dies out. It smokes quite a bit the whole time, but I suspect that is because it is still cold. I bled the low pressure side initially and then the high side, but that drains out after I open the pump time window. I havcn't bled the high side again hoping the starting fluid would allow it to run long enough to suck the fuel up to the injectors. What other information can I provide you? Thank you very much. Mark
Re(3): 880 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.43 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 07:39:49 AM by Larry Harsin
In my Shop Manual it says that the timing should be set at 6 degrees BTDC. Larry
Re(4): 880 diesel
IP: 169.207.45.107 Posted on March 20, 2003 at 07:30:51 PM by Mark
Larry, I tried the 6 degrees and still doesn't work. Let me explain what I am doing and please correct the mistakes I must be making. On the compression stroke of #1 cylinder I am lining up the BTDC mark on the flywheel (above the TDC mark as viewed through the access hole in the right side of the bell housing) to the pointer on the bell housing. I can make out the TDC mark very well. There is no FP mark and the rest of the marks are barely visible on the tape applied to the flywheel. My I&T manual says Super 66, 770 & 880 diesels FP mark is located 25 to 26 BTDC. I measured 2 63/64" and put a mark to identify 26 degrees. That setup didn't work. After you told me 6 degrees I counted 6 of the visible hash marks and marked that point. I removed the injector pump drive gear cover plate and removed the gear and hub. The Rossa Master pump timing window cover was unscrewed and the timing marks lined up. The hub gear was separated from the hub and the hub reinstalled, lining up the offset dots on the keyed end of the hub with the one in the pump. The hub gear was then reinstalled and bolted to the hub making sure the timing marks had not moved on either the pump nor the flywheel. The pump gear cover plate was reinstalled and I attempt to start (I will wire the bolt heads of the drive gear once I find the settings are correct). The engine starts with starting fluid, but will not remain running. There is no port plug on the timing cover on this model above the pump drive gear. Would it help to send you digital images of this setup? Thank You for your patience with me. Mark
Re(5): 880 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 05:48:31 AM by Larry Harsin
No. You do not need to send a picture. This engine is making me wonder if you have the correct pistons. We just had another fellow with the same problem and he had the wrong pistons. An 880 should have flat topped pistons and they should come exactly to the top of the sleeve when it is on TDC. Larry
Re(5): 880 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on March 26, 2003 at 05:58:00 AM by Larry Harsin
That FP mark was for the older engines with Bosch pumps. For the Roosa Master pumps it has to be timed at 6 degrees before TDC. Since you had the energy cells out, I wonder if you have them assembled correctly. You can't hardly put them together wrong. I don't know what is going on here. Larry
Re(6): 880 diesel
IP: 169.207.45.71 Posted on March 30, 2003 at 08:40:22 AM by Mark
Do the timing marks indicate 1 degree or 2 degrees or something else? This tractor ran before I took the pump and injectors out, so I have to assume the pistons are not the problem. The energy cells are assembled correctly and were relapped. Thank you.
Re(7): 880 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on April 1, 2003 at 05:53:03 AM by Larry Harsin
I believe each mark is 2 degrees. Larry
sale results
IP: 216.106.56.50 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 11:46:03 AM by Jason M. Epperson
Larry, Did you happen to go to the sale with all of the Oliver tractors and equipment on it by What Cheer, IA? I was just wondering how things sold. Anybody have any results? Thanks.
Re(1): sale results
IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 01:06:29 PM by Larry Harsin
The date didn't work out that we could go. I have heard what some of the tractors brought. The 2255 brought under $6000. The 1955 with FWA was around $7000. The 1650 was about $3500 and the 550 was around $4000. These are approximate figures but fairly close as I remember being told. Larry
Re(2): sale results
IP: 216.106.56.82 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 09:35:18 PM by Jason Epperson
Thank you for the information. Sounds like things sold pretty good.
Oliver 770 Exhaust Manifold
IP: 216.178.87.213 Posted on March 15, 2003 at 03:16:21 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. My exhaust manifold has a leak. It has been making the tractor sound like it has a miss to it. It appears to be seeping past the gasket. Is it possible to buy a high temperature caulk to fill in around the manifold where it is leaking? Will this help me or do you think I have to replace the gasket? Thank you for your time and help. I love this website. It is very helpful to me. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 Exhaust Manifold
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 07:13:16 AM by Larry Harsin
You'll have to replace the gaskets. When you get the manifold off, you should check the ports with a straight edge to see how badly they have warped. You may have to take the manifold to a machine shop and get it planed so that it will fit up to the head correctly. Before I took it to the machine shop though, I would put in all new gaskets and try it. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 770 Exhaust Manifold
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 07:16:40 AM by Larry Harsin
There is a high temp caulking material available at automotive supply stores. You can try it on the leak. It may or may not work. Larry
Re(3): Oliver 770 Exhaust Manifold
IP: 216.178.75.184 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 10:09:45 AM by Mike Renner
Thank you Larry. I will give it a shot and if it dont work I'll have to get gaskets and have it machined. Thank you again for your help. I really appreciate it. Mike Renner
Hydrapower
IP: 205.206.65.60 Posted on March 15, 2003 at 01:32:54 PM by Alberta dave
I have a over/under hydra power unit on my 1650D that only runs in under drive and needs to come out. I am told these are a pain in the neck to rebuild. I have seen a similar looking new unit made by Funk that has three speeds and looks like it would fit between the bell housing and the drive coupler with only a few mods. Have you ever found substitute for the factory hydra power units?
Re(1): Hydrapower
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 07:08:58 AM by Larry Harsin
I have no knowledge on the Funk unit. I don't think the rebuild on the over/under is so bad. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. He may have a good used hydra power unit. Also Doug Johnson might have one: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com. Larry
Paint
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on March 14, 2003 at 04:36:52 PM by Phil
I want to paint my cockshutt 1750. Where can I get the correct color paint or who would have the paint codes? The year is 1967 or 1968. Thanks
Re(1): Paint
IP: 209.163.7.99 Posted on March 14, 2003 at 07:23:38 PM by Larry Harsin
I believe the paint codes are printed on the HPOCA website: www.hartparroliver.org. Larry Re(1): Paint
IP: 63.90.171.238 Posted on March 15, 2003 at 07:46:16 PM by Matt Hayes
I have a cockshutt 1350 and had a tough time finding the paint code for the clover white. The 99l-4331 for Martin Senour was unavailable when I contacted Napa. After several phone calls I found a clover white code for PPG DAR and it is 8805 and is now known as alabaster white. I used Dupont Centari paint for the red. I can get the code from the can if you want it.
Re(2): Paint
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 16, 2003 at 07:03:43 AM by Larry Harsin
You can get Clover White from AGCO and I believe it is cheaper that these places that mix paint for you. There are 2 different reds for ####shutt. The red on the later ones is the hard one to come up with. I would be interested in the paint code from your paint can. Larry
Re(1): Paint
IP: 152.163.188.71 Posted on March 17, 2003 at 07:47:44 PM by Phil
Matt, that would be great if you could get the code for me. The paint is excellant on the back side of the sheet metal. I am going to bring a sample to a local body shop and have them put the "color eye" on it and see how well they can match the paint. I'll keep you and Larry posted.
1850 questions
IP: 207.162.163.19 Posted on March 14, 2003 at 10:01:44 AM by Tommy Cannon
I have a couple of questions on my 1850. Is the oil pump available aftermarket or is it a dealer idem? The hydra power will not go into the low side without great effort and will shift back in direct on it's own. What is wrong with it and is it hard to fix? If it is feasable I would like to fixed while the motor is out.If the hydrapower is to expensive to fix what would it take to leave it out? I am waiting for a verdict on the crankshaft ,it is in the shop being checked. Did perkins in Olivers have crank troubles like the Massey combines? The fellow helping me with the motor was a Massey mechanic and he never saw a turned 354 crank hold up. Mine looked good and hope it will just need to be polished. I would like to be able to get the 1850 fixed because we bought it new and hate to see it scraped. It just has 3400 original hours. Thanks for your help,TC
Re(1): 1850 questions
IP: 209.163.7.99 Posted on March 14, 2003 at 07:18:45 PM by Larry Harsin
It's a dealer item. I have a used oil pump and I might have a new one. I will check. If you are interested in it, email me. I've never had a hydra-power do that. It will probably cost as much to fix it leaving it out as it will cost to leave it in. I never heard that the Perkins in the Olivers had too much trouble. It seemed like they held up fine. You are going to have to take that hydra-power apart and see what is going on. One thing to look for on the hydra-power, is the drive hub that goes into the clutch discs. That drive hub will tend to get notches in it where it contacts those discs. That might be what is causing the shifting problem. Larry
550 lubrication specs
IP: 216.169.188.30 Posted on March 13, 2003 at 08:04:32 PM by Frank Navazio
Just bought a tractor, was told its a 550. The only numbers I could find were on a plate riveted to L/S fender 45-0400 115-264-583 Any idea what year it is and is it a 550? Tractor has a white/oliver loader and a Sherman Power Digger backhoe attached. Loader seems to operate okay but is real noisy. Backhoe not working , I think the press. and return plumbing was reversed or hooked up wrong. Do you know of a place to get info for backhoe ? model# 1272 ser # 52351. one more thing, trans fill cap is to right of shifter. Is there a trans dipstick ? What type of trans fluid and how high do you fill it ? Will low trans fluid effect the power steering operation? Sorry for all the questions, I just got the machine home and have not bought any books for it yet Thanks Frank
Re(1): 550 lubrication specs
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 14, 2003 at 07:04:48 PM by Larry Harsin
Your 550 was built in 1961. This is a small utility type tractor like a Ford?? Ford and Sherman were associated. Contact Palmer Fossum, RR 1, Northfield MN 55057. He is a Ford expert and may be able to help on the Sherman info. Another place is: Strojney Impl Co. in Mosinee WI 54455. They are Ford Dealers. There is no dipstick. There is a level plug on the rear of the rear end housing on the right side. You can use 80 - 90 and pour it in the fill hole by the gear shifter until it runs out the plug on the rear. Low trans fluid will not affect the power steering operation. You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
1365 Tractor / 1510 Loader Part
IP: 216.220.26.174 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 08:06:57 PM by Alice Peterson
I have a 1365 Oliver tractor with a 1510 Oliver loader. The both the top and bottom mounts that attaches the loader to the tractor that bolt behind the rear wheel have broken on one side of the tractor. Is there any place that sells new or used mounts?
Re(1): 1365 Tractor / 1510 Loader Part
IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 10:31:18 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know of any place. See if you can get a welding shop to fabricate new mounts for you. Larry
1650 gas hard start
IP: 207.177.61.157 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 07:59:04 PM by steve
have to leave throttle at idle, to start hot or cold, acts like weak fire, but have put new coil,points-condenser, overhauled carb, pull short distance starts
Re(1): 1650 gas hard start
IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 10:29:09 PM by Larry Harsin
You may not be getting very good current to the coil. Try using a jumper wire from the battery to the coil when you start it and see if that helps. You could have bad wiring or a bad connection some place or even a bad switch. Try to eliminate each thing and see what you find. I have had to run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil to make them start better. Larry
Re(1): 1650 gas hard start
IP: 209.50.4.227 Posted on March 13, 2003 at 01:35:00 AM by B A Star
Your 1650 has a 12 volt electrical system. The coil should be a 6 volt coil. The wiring loom has 2.0 to 2.4 ohms resistance wire in it between ingition switch and the + post on the coil, resistance drops the voltage to a usable level for coil during opertion. The wire going to the + post on the coil should be a white wire. The white wire is common to the white wire on your starter solnoid. A battery's voltage is drawn down during cranking, more so during cold weather. Let's say the voltae is down to 9 volts during craking, with the direct connection to the starter, you have 9 volts to the 6 volt coil during cranking for a hot spark and go back to the 6 volts during operation. Make sure you have a 6 volt coil and have a good connection in the white wire between starter and coil. If you have a 12 volt coil, during cranking with voltage drawn down, you will have a very weak spark.
880 Water Temperature Sender
IP: 67.195.152.210 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 05:01:46 PM by Steve Merritt
Do you know what the water temperature sender resistance values are that correspond to each end of the working range on the temperature gauge? Thanks.
Re(1): 880 Water Temperature Sender
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 05:59:02 PM by Larry Harsin
Room temperture - 525 ohms. 155 degrees is 145 ohms. 180 degrees is 90 ohms. 212 degrees is 52 ohms. 227 degrees is 41 ohms. Connect the ohm meter as follows: For these values given between sending unit terminal on the sender and any good ground. Be sure the wire to the gauge is disconnected. The engine can be started and brought up to temperature for this test. Larry
Re(2): 880 Water Temperature Sender
IP: 67.195.59.184 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 09:25:22 PM by Steve Merritt
Thanks. I really appreciate your help.
Tip Toe wheels
IP: 195.93.32.11 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 03:03:09 PM by Chris
HI Larry, Do you know the answer to this question? Was the Tip Toe steel wheel made by Oliver or French & Hecht? Thanks Chris.
Re(1): Tip Toe wheels
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 05:53:13 PM by Larry Harsin
I'm sure it was made by Oliver. Larry
3 point float position
IP: 64.33.181.63 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 12:49:08 AM by Paul A Ramey
I have a 1959 770 Diesel with a factory 3 point hitch. Is there any way to get it to a float position when using it with a rear blade? Did Oliver ever have a draft control for this set-up? Paul, WI
Re(1): 3 point float position
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 05:52:07 PM by Larry Harsin
No. Oliver didn't have a draft control for this. I think there is a bolt on the right side above where the lift cylinder attaches at the top. You remove that bolt and the 3 pt. can float up. It could be a pin instead of a bolt. Larry
Re(2): 3 point float position
IP: 64.33.181.49 Posted on March 13, 2003 at 03:09:34 PM by Paul, WI
Thanks Larry. I was able to a much better job of moving the snow last night with the blade able to floot!! Paul
1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 67.200.113.202 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 08:05:08 PM by Greg
Here I am again....stumped Still working on my loader issue... Now I can't get it into gear! Since this thing was in the bushes/rain for 15 yrs I did a total rebuild. Split the tractor and completely rebuilt both PTO and drive clutch. New disc, press. plate and bearings. Not to mention valves, sleeves, pistons.... She appears to shift fine when not running. When running I can't get it into gear because it grinds. Had free play adjusted to 1/2" still no good. Adjusted to 0" and still grinds. really stumped because this part of it was so simple. PTO (the hard part) works good and so does rear hydraulics. I'm looking at a photo I took of the center frame after the rebuild and I can not figure out what I could have messed up. Can see fork, throw-out bearing, return springs and it all makes sense. Any ideas at all??
Re(1): 1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 07:18:42 AM by Larry Harsin
You'll have to disassemble the tractor. Something is installed wrong or out of adjustment. Could the clutch disc be installed backwards? Are all the fingers on the pressure plate adjusted evenly? Larry
Re(2): 1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 216.74.205.105 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 09:03:16 AM by Roger
I have a Super 55 that I purschased from a gentleman several months ago. This tractor has the same problem as yours. The man told me that after he installed a new clutch that it was hard to get into gear. I have not had time to tear it down, but I have a suspicion that he PUT THE CLUTCH DISK IN BACKWARD.
Re(3): 1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 06:01:23 PM by Larry Harsin
That is easy to do as they are just the opposite of most of the other Olivers. Larry
Re(4): 1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 205.184.96.189 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 09:03:44 PM by Greg
Thanks for the comments. I looked back at my I&T manual and I had highlighted the following, "Reinstall the clutch lined plate with long hub of it facing flywheel." thats seems pretty obvious to me, but the manual is written for both the Super 55 and 550. Is it possible that the 550 is the opposite of the 55 and it was written for the 55!! Before I split this thing again I'm going to peek through the PTO access and see if I can see what's going on inside. There's also a dust shield over the clutch that I might be able to sneak a peek as well.
Re(5): 1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 10:25:00 PM by Larry Harsin
The I & T Manual is correct. Possibly you bent something or disturbed the pilot bearing or something like that when you were jockeying that tractor back together. It's hard to tell. You'll just have to keep checking things out. Larry
Re(6): 1961 550 clutch problem
IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on March 13, 2003 at 12:47:44 AM by Greg
Hmmmm. I do recall hearing a pop when I was tightening the casting bolts. Figured it just was the parts seating back together. Maybe you're right. I'll try to peek at things and if nothing turns up then I'll be splitting it apart again.
Chain Couplers and Trunion Mounts
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 12:50:09 AM by Shep
I have an 1850 and an 1855 both running Cummins 5.9L engines. Both have the chain couplers and over/under Hyral shift transmissions and the chains have been doing pretty good. However I am not a big fan of the chain couplers and it always seems like I have a chain giving me problems, or if you get a little too friskey with the throddle in a bad spot one of the chains breaks. I was pondering how much would have to be changed in order to change an 1850 or 1855 from a chain coupler to a trunion mount like the 2150 or 2255 has. I am thinking the 3 speed should be easy, change the tail housing and the output shaft to the trunion style. What I dont know is if I am going to have to replace the transmission input shaft or not, and how it all will work on the transmission side. I think I have enough room to slide the engine into the trunion and I dont think the trunion takes up any more room than the chain to mess up my engine mounting. I think this is very possible but dont really know how difficult and what all is going to have to be changed. Any thoughts or ideas. I may attempt this and see what happens. Sheps World
Re(1): Chain Couplers and Trunion Mounts
IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on March 12, 2003 at 07:14:07 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have any ideas on it. I have never done any of this. I'll be interested to hear how you come out. Larry
Re(2): Chain Couplers and Trunion Mounts
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on March 13, 2003 at 08:18:03 AM by Shep
Thanks Larry, if I try it I will let you know how it works. I am trying to get the part numbers on the shafts that I may have to change to see if they are the same or different. If it doesnt look too difficult I may try it this summer on one of the tractors.
Oliver 770 Precleaner
IP: 209.92.255.18 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 04:48:30 AM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. Do you know where I could pick up a precleaner for the air cleaner and maybe how much it would be? Thank you very much for your time and help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 Precleaner
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 06:47:21 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. I don't know the price either. Larry
Hyd. pump seals
IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 08:47:53 PM by Vernon Smith
The hydraulic pump on my 770 was filling the transmission up with oil.I took the pump out to replace the seals and crossed the CR # to a National seal #.The national seals are leather instead of rubber,I thought they would seal better and last longer than the rubber seals because they will swell up and seal the shaft better than the rubber.What do you think?
Re(1): Hyd. pump seals
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 06:42:50 AM by Larry Harsin
No. That is not the place for a leather seal. I'd stay with what was in it originally. Make sure the needle bearings are good. Larry
70
IP: 208.31.75.25 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 07:34:24 PM by Chad
The number 6 cylinder on my 1944 70 keeps fouling the plug. It has good compression close to 80. Could this be the valve guide? Is it fixable? Also the carburetor tends to frost really bad. Is running to lean the only reason for this? Also what is the chance the water pump is bad? And how can I check this? Your site is great and lots of help to me.... Chad
Re(1): 70
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 06:40:32 AM by Larry Harsin
It is a very good chance that you have a worn valve guide. Also, you may have a bad valve stem seal so that too much oil is getting to the guide. The valve stem seal is in the top spring retainer and is probably leaking. Yes, it is fixable. That valve stem seal can be replaced without taking the head off the tractor. If you have to replace it, make sure you have the piston all the way up so that the valve won't fall down into the cylinder. In other words, have it on Top Dead Center. The carburetor frosting is just a condition that happens. You should run your engine at 180 degrees by covering the radiator. To check the water pump: with the engine running at a fast idle, remove the radiator cap and watch. If you see coolant circulating in the radiator, your water pump should be o.k. Larry
Oliver 70 split rims
IP: 129.186.99.80 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 07:32:42 PM by Kevin Cordray
I am looking for new "snap rings" that hold the rim halves together. The rims are 36inch. I also need new orings for the cylinder sleeves.
Re(1): Oliver 70 split rims
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on March 11, 2003 at 06:31:45 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 for the "O" rings. I have rims with the rings, but I won't sell the rings without the rims. Call around to salvage yards and see what you can find. Or if you are interested in the complete rims, email me. Larry
synthetic oil
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 01:31:03 PM by Anonymous
Larry, I was just wondering what your opinion is on synthetic oil? My neighbor thinks its great and started using it in all his tractors. I think its unnecessary overkill. Most of those synthetic oils are two or three times the price of regular oil. I think if you buy a good grade of regular oil (like Shell Rotella T) and change the oil and filter as recommended you will never a problem caused by the oil. What do you think?
Re(1): synthetic oil
IP: 64.33.181.127 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 05:48:07 PM by Paul A Ramey
If you change the oil at the same number of hours that is called for then the cost of the synthetic is too high. By using oil analysis (OA) you take a sample and have it tested to see if you need to have the oil changed. This works well with synthetic and regular oil. The synthetics work best in really cold weather. To make OA or synthetic oil work you would need to weigh the costs of each methods to the cost of changing your oil every X number of hours. The US Army is using OA for it fleet and the trucks that are in some of the Gaurd units go 2-3 years between oil changes because they are not getting the hours on them. The motors need about 5-10 gl of oil per change.
Re(2): synthetic oil
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 06:45:20 PM by Larry Harsin
Actually, I agree with both of you. It depends upon how much time you want to put into it. Larry
Re(3): synthetic oil
IP: 208.20.130.183 Posted on March 13, 2003 at 08:52:18 PM by Lou Marchaland
My 1550 Diesel has synthetic in it for the winter (15-50), it has started down to 0, with no ether, a lot of heater cycles, and the faster cranking speed with the synthetic has let it start good this winter, plus the oil pressure comes up fast but not excessive.
Re(4): synthetic oil
IP: 205.206.65.60 Posted on March 15, 2003 at 01:43:37 PM by alberta dave
I believe that my use of a 0W-30 semi-synthetic winter oil ruined the diesil engine in my 1650D. At first it was great as I build oil pressure faster, started easier and I thought I was a genius when my 25 year old beast would start and my neighbors were stuck boosting their newer equipment. However, within a couple of months of winter usage the engine began to smoke badly and struggled to start at all. My guess is that the higher detergent content stripped the engine of all of its protective gums and varnishes. I have a mechanical consultant who works for me from time to time putting on maintenance seminars for my employees and he says never to switch an older engine to a high detergent oil if it was not designed for it. You may do this after a rebuild but never in mid-stream. I should have know better as I killed my Volvo car after 200,000 miles switching to Exxon protec oil after using quaker state since it was new. Just my opinion.
Re(5): synthetic oil
IP: 205.188.209.165 Posted on March 19, 2003 at 08:57:29 PM by Don-WI
I have also heard this: With the 310's, people have tried sythetics and tried to run more hours on the engine because of the synthetic, and ended up putting a ventilation hole in the side of the block. Just have to change the 310 every 50, and I am a firm beleiver of that. If the oil is black quicker such as heavy plowing, I'll change it sooner. Donovan from Wisconsin
Super 55 HC
IP: 206.47.184.219 Posted on March 8, 2003 at 05:11:58 PM by Paul
I see the manuals refer either to HC engines or Diesel engines. What does the HC stand for I would suspect maybe something about the governor but can you please explain. Thanks. Paul in Ontario
Re(1): Super 55 HC
IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on March 9, 2003 at 06:39:13 AM by Larry Harsin
HC stands for High Compression or gasoline burning engine. Larry
Oliver Loader
IP: 205.184.110.243 Posted on March 8, 2003 at 02:20:11 PM by Greg
Larry; Have a 1961, 550 with a front loader on it. I thought you identified it as a 810 model. Anyhow I finally got the tractor started after 1.5 years of resoration and lots of your help! Thanks, she really sounds sweet. The problem I have now is I can't move it because the loader doesn't work. It worked for the guy I bought it from. I had to drain the oil and replace a bunch of hoses so I'm thinking it just might need to be primed or something. Any ideas? How do I prime if that's what the problem is? Thanks for all your help. Greg
Re(1): Oliver Loader
IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on March 9, 2003 at 06:37:22 AM by Larry Harsin
It should prime itself. Check your hose routing and make sure they are all hooked up where they should be. Make sure your fluid levels are where they should be. You may have to disconnect the hose at the inlet side of the pump and make sure there is fluid there. Larry
Re(1): Oliver Loader
IP: 12.89.65.74 Posted on March 10, 2003 at 12:29:19 AM by Mike B
Hi, I have the same machine and loader, although mine is a 1959 with what I recall to be a model 557 loader. I agree with Larry, check the routing of the hoses. The pump should self prime. There sometimes is a fine mesh screen filter on the intake inside of the tank that might be clogged. Loosen the large diameter line on the suction side of the pump. You should get a mess in a hurry if it is not clogged. Also make sure that the pump is not dead-headed by a pressure or return line shut off. You can tell that the engine really lugs if it is. I have an original owners manual with the proper hose routing shown. If you want, write to me with a fax number and I'll send you the important pages. Good luck. mbov@att.net
1800 checkerboard?
IP: 63.161.107.189 Posted on March 7, 2003 at 03:28:47 PM by Rob
Larry, when looking for parts for my 1800, the people keep asking me if its a checkerboard. How do I determine that. They tell me the grill looks like a checkerboard, mine has 2 vertical and 3 horizontal bars. If the serial numbers help, it is 114 454-886 Spec # 18-1113 Thanks for your help
Re(1): 1800 checkerboard?
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on March 7, 2003 at 08:21:07 PM by Larry Harsin
The checkerboard is on the decal on the side of the tractor. It is a checkered background under (or behind) the word Oliver. They were used on the early 1800's (and 1900's) which is the "A" series. Your serial number tells us that it is an 1800 "A" series checkerboard built in 1961. Larry
oil additive
IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 08:37:19 PM by Vernon Smith
In my shop manual it keeps refering to an oil additive for the rear,pto,transmission and hydraulics to be added to every 4 gallons of oil.What is the additive agco# or name and is there an equivelant?
Re(1): oil additive
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on March 7, 2003 at 06:49:50 AM by Larry Harsin
The number is 102082A. GL5 Transmission oils have more high load additives. I would use GL5 oil and forget about the additive. The exception would be for a 3 digit tractor with the power booster transmission. I feel that the GL5 gear lube may be too slippery for the sprague clutch in the power booster. In which case, I would tend to use something like Hy-Tran from Case/IH or Hy-Gard from John Deere. Larry
super 55 colors
IP: 67.233.61.106 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 05:45:28 PM by dan morrow
larry,my 55 when i got it was green w/white wheels. i have since painted the wheels red and the oliver front grill yellow. is this right. you told me on my last question that my trator was yr. 1955. i`m also in need of the door that covers the gas and radiator caps. thanks again,dan :)
Re(1): super 55 colors
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 06:32:21 PM by Larry Harsin
The wheels are supposed to be green on a 1955 model. The first 2 yrs. of production, the wheels were green. Some guys paint them red anyway. The grill is yellow. Check with Korves Bros. about that cover. www.korvesoliver.com. Larry
smoke color
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 02:49:50 PM by mm
What your position on smoke color. When I stand by the tractor it does not appear to be smoking much but as I get further away the color appears to be blue. Does temperature have affect on smoke color.
Re(1): smoke color
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 06:29:11 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, temperature affects it some. I would take this tractor and use it some before I did much of anything to it. Use it in the field some and then see about the smoke. Make sure the thermostat is working and keeping the engine up to temperature. Larry
1850
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 09:37:12 AM by mm
i just brought a oliver 1850 model 185??? and this is the first oliver ever purchased. I tractor has 6600 hrs and is leaking a litter oil from the pan and from the value cover. no manuel was given therefore how easy is it to replace these gaskets and do I have to buy a gasket set? Also a little fuel is leaking by the spin on filter
Re(1): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 12:56:09 AM by Larry Harsin
I am assuming that this is a diesel. You might be able to stop the oil leak on the valve cover by tightening the screws on the cover. I think you will find that there are at least 6 screws. You may have to raise the fuel tank in order to get to these. The valve cover gaskets on those engines are supposed to be reusable and are quite expensive if you have to replace them. That is why I reccommend tightening these screws. This will probably take care of your leaks. You can get a manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City IA. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(2): 1850
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 01:08:37 PM by Carl
Larry, I think this fellow also mentioned leaking from the oil pan. If I am not mistaken, don't you have to split the tractor to remove the oil pan and replace the gasket? I know you do on a 105 White and I think this is the same engine. Of course, I would also try to tighten the pan bolts a little, first.
Re(3): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 06:27:04 PM by Larry Harsin
The 1850 wasn't known for leaking on the pan bolts. They usually leak from the top and it runs all over everything. I think tightening the screws will help. You can take the oil pan off without splitting the tractor. Just remove the bolts and take it off. Larry
Re(4): 1850
IP: 144.92.164.197 Posted on March 7, 2003 at 08:51:55 AM by mm
Larry: Where around the top are they known to leak from
Re(5): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on March 7, 2003 at 08:14:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Around the valve cover gasket (the rocker arm cover gasket. The first thing I would do is tighten the screws and see if that "fixes" it. If it doesn't, you'll probably have to replace the gasket. Larry
Re(6): 1850
IP: 143.115.159.54 Posted on March 8, 2003 at 05:01:36 PM by Larry
I would chech for any leaks on the manifold intake gaskets. I had the problem with a leaking valve cover. The leaking oil soaked the OEM manifold gaskets causing them to leak. The dirt sucked into the cylinders destroyed the pistions. The later manifold gaskets had more resistance to oil.
880 Disc Brakes
IP: 63.163.213.242 Posted on March 6, 2003 at 08:29:30 AM by Steve Merritt
I had to replace the seals inside the brake housing. After I tore apart the and cleaned the greasey mess, I discovered that the brake discs have black pads on one side and red pads on the other. I assume there is a correct orientation. Which pad color contacts the expander betweent the two discs? Thanks.
Re(1): 880 Disc Brakes
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on March 7, 2003 at 06:53:21 AM by Larry Harsin
They can go either way. It doesn't make any difference. Just put it back together the way you took it apart. Larry
cylinder sleeves
IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 09:02:47 PM by Steve
Hi Larry, What do you recommend to use to lube cylinder sleeve o-rings when you install them? Thanks for your help.
Re(1): cylinder sleeves
IP: 209.163.7.54 Posted on March 5, 2003 at 06:21:56 AM by Larry Harsin
I follow the instructions that come with the sleeves or otherwise I use liquid dish washing soap. Larry
77 SHIFTER
IP: 64.12.107.167 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 05:45:10 PM by DAVID
MY 77 WILL NOT SHIFT INTO LOW RANGE. DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND A HOOD FOR MY 990?
Re(1): 77 SHIFTER
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on March 4, 2003 at 06:40:02 PM by Larry Harsin
The poppet block needs to be replaced in your 77. For a hood for your 990, check with Arnold Meyer: almeyer@frontiernet.net. He may know where there is one. Larry