"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Archives

"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - March, 2007 Archives

1550 injection pump

IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on March 31, 2007 at 05:36:13 PM by shad speer

I have a 1550 with a super 77 diesel, that I can put either a bosch or a roosa injector pump on it. What do you suggest?

Re(1): 1550 injection pump

IP: 67.2.249.159 Posted on April 1, 2007 at 08:41:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe I'd go with the Roosa Master, because it is cheaper to repair. I also like the governor action at slower speeds, with the Roosa Master pump. Larry

intake and exhaust manifold

IP: 71.153.207.246 Posted on March 30, 2007 at 01:18:35 PM by TERRY

LARRY I REPLACED BOTH INTAKE AND EXAUST MANIFOLDS AT THE SAME TIME---THEY ARE NEW AFTER MARKET UNITS--AFTER THEY WERE CHANGED OUT THE OLIVER 88 GAS TRACTOR DIDN"T RUN CORRECTLY---LOOKS LIKE ITS GETTING TO MUCH AIR---IS THEIR A DIFFERENCT BETWEEN A SUPER 88 AND 88?????

Re(1): intake and exhaust manifold

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on March 31, 2007 at 03:49:42 AM by Larry Harsin

No. There is no difference. You may have an air leak someplace, like where the manifold fits up to the head on the intake side. Otherwise, there is a possibility of a "sand hole" in the intake manifold somewhere, so that it is drawing outside air. This can happen on any of them - I have had them on brand new tractors. Check with visual inspection or spraying starting fluid on the manifold or along the gaskets. The engine will sound different when you find the leak. Larry

S55 HC Won't rev over 1000

IP: 71.50.248.144 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 03:23:10 PM by Rod

Hi Larry, I love your site. I have spent hours reading over old posts and found it to be very useful. I recently bought a S55 HC with the front mounted governor. Since I've had it, it won't rev over 1000 RPMs at full throttle. The first thing I found was that the High No-Load Speed adjusting screw was so far out that the throttle couldn't be opened all the way because the screw was bumping into the top of the governor control support (and someone had adjusted the linkage between the operating lever and the carb to compensate for that). So, I removed the adjusting screw and ground off 1/16th of an inch so I could open the throttle all the way, then I adjusted the linkage between the operating lever and the carb so it was 1/16th of an inch in front of hole in the operating lever with the throttle wide open. Then, when I close the throttle and try to adjust the bumper screw, I can take the screw all the way in and never feel it contact the operating lever. When I start the tractor and open the throttle all the way, the governor pulls back on the linkage and keeps the engine at 1000 RPM. I can grab the linkage to the carb and get the engine up to 2000 RPMs, but the governor pulls back even harder. Based on several of your earlier posts, I have a couple guesses as to what might be wrong, but instead of guessing I'd prefer to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance for the help, Rod

Re(1): S55 HC Won't rev over 1000

IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 09:32:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Someone may have put the wrong spring in there, to operate the governor. I would remove the governor from the engine and inspect it. The reason you can't make contact with that bumper spring is the governor thrust washer is worn off too much. This it the thrust washer where the governor sits in the engine block. Being worn, it lets the governor set back too far. I have seen even where the governor gears are worn badly, so you'll have to correct for wear there and reassemble it and do your adjustments. Larry

Re(2): S55 HC Won't rev over 1000

IP: 71.50.248.144 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 07:45:55 PM by Rod

I got it apart tonight. The thrust washer was worn almost completely away, the thrust bearing has worn deep grooves in the spool and the washer that the fork rides on and the bumper spring wasn't even there. No wonder it didn't work right. Now it's off to my local AgCo to see if they carry the parts. If not, then I'll call Korves Brothers. You nailed it right on the head Larry, thanks again!

Super 55 HC won't rev over 1000 - Part 2

IP: 71.50.248.144 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 07:11:43 PM by Rod

I replaced several worn parts on the governor and now the fork engages the race when everything is adjusted according to the manual. However, I still cannot get the engine over 1000 RPM. If I quickly move the governer into the lower quadrant, I see the linkage open wide, then I see the governor pull it back immediately. If I pull on the linkage, I can reach 2000 RPM, but I feel the governor pulling back. I suspect the governor spring is worn out as the adjusting screw is as tight as it can possibly be (indicating to me that the spring has become weak and someone has tried to correct it using the adjustment). Do you think the spring is worn out? I tried Korves and they don't carry the spring. Do you know where I might be able to get one?

Re(1): Super 55 HC won't rev over 1000 - Part 2

IP: 67.2.248.91 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 10:18:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that it isn't the correct spring. You should be able to order the spring listed in your parts book, from your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1855 Engine

IP: 4.224.66.178 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 06:54:14 PM by Brian Byrnes

Larry, I have a chance to purchase a 1855 gas engine and the guy says that it would fit into my RC 88 I know you had already told me that a 1800 would and that you had one you would sell me, will this engine fit and do you still have a 1800 engine available.

Re(1): 1855 Engine

IP: 67.2.248.91 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 10:14:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can make it work. It will be about the same installation as the 1800 engine. I have a 1755 engine that would bolt in the same as an 1855 engine. I don't have the 1800 engine now. Larry

Transmission Oliver 1250

IP: 65.54.154.46 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 06:52:33 PM by Jeff

having a problem with Trans. works perfict except when you try to stop, keeps on going a little ways before it will stop. (6 speed foward 2 reverse) Need help

Re(1): Transmission Oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.248.91 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 10:08:40 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like an engine clutch is not releasing. Look at your Operator's Manual for adjustments on the clutch. Larry

Re(2): Transmission Oliver 1250

IP: 65.54.98.107 Posted on March 31, 2007 at 05:17:51 AM by Jeff

would it be the pressure plate or the clutch plate. maybe week springs or stuck pressure plate

Re(3): Transmission Oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.242.44 Posted on March 31, 2007 at 04:43:39 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a stuck clutch disk, but it could also be that something is broken in there and the clutch isn't releasing properly. It could be any of the things you suggest and many other things. See if you can adjust it according to your Operator's Manual. If that doesn't work, you may have to take the tractor apart. Larry

Wiring for Implements

IP: 207.140.222.7 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 07:39:51 AM by Chuck

I want to wire a plug for implement lighting on my 1655. I want to use the standard 7 pin round, agricultural plug, but I can't find the diagram anywhere. Does anyone have a link to a sight that may have it? Or a diagram they could email? Thanks,

Re(1): Wiring for Implements

IP: 67.2.248.91 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 10:05:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Larry

Re(2): Wiring for Implements

IP: 76.208.14.96 Posted on March 29, 2007 at 06:52:31 AM by 90%ret'd

Table 4 Tractor and self-propelled machine receptacle - Conductor Wire Terminal - identification color number Circuit - Wht White 1 Ground - Blk Black 2 Work lamps - Yel Yellow 3 Left-hand flashing - and turn Indicators - Red Red 4 Stop lamps - Grn Green 5 Right-hand flashing - and turn Indicators - Brn Brown 6 Tail lamps - Blu Blue 7 Switched power (12 volt) - NOTE - Terminal 7 is to be controlled by the ignition/start key switch. See clause A.1 on implement bus breakaway connector. This is from ASABE standards.

oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 65.102.38.44 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 12:37:34 PM by ernie firestone

this tractor is transferring hydraulic fluid from the hydraulic reservoir under the seat to the bottom differential... i read in the book that the pto actuation unit might be the problem.. changed that out without any success... is there a typical problem to repair this.. i would like to run the recommended lube in the rearend and not the hydraulic oil in there now... thankyou for your time in whatever help you may be able to give..

Re(1): oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 67.2.240.161 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 05:49:42 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have to pull the PTO unit off of the tractor and reseal the clutch pack and the brake on the inside, if you havn't already done this. There is something in there that isn't right. Larry

1850 Oliver

IP: 205.188.117.71 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 05:10:44 PM by Colton

I have a 1850 Oliver and I am losing Hydraulic fluid and I believe it is going in the rear end. What could be the problem?

Re(1): 1850 Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 05:41:41 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a seal on the inside on the draft control rod, between the bull gears. Most of the time this is the problem and should be replaced. Larry

1850 Oliver

IP: 207.160.221.252 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 12:35:34 PM by Colton

I was also wondering how and if I could put another hydraulic control on my oliver. It already has the lever to control it. And could I buy it at an Agco dealer or buy it anywhere new.

Re(1): 1850 Oliver

IP: 67.2.240.161 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 05:46:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You plumb into the Power-Beyond port and use an open center valve. A lot of Farm Supply stores have them or Valu-Bilt has them 888-828-3276. Just make sure to get an open center valve. You can get a 1 spool valve or a 2 spool valve. If you are going to use it on a loader, you might want to get a 2 spool valve with one of them having a float. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Oliver

IP: 207.160.221.252 Posted on April 9, 2007 at 11:21:32 AM by Colton

What about the buttons on the levers? Can I fix those or should I just stay out of it.

Re(3): 1850 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 04:43:26 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You don't have to do anything to the buttons. Larry

1600 D power steering

IP: 208.126.59.216 Posted on March 26, 2007 at 09:14:46 PM by farmer tom

Had the tractor on the generator several weeks back when we had the ice and snow. Put it in the shed after I unhooked it, saw some hydraulic fluid had leaked on the floor. Started it up to move it today and ... no power steering. The fluid was three quarts low. Filled it, still no power steering. Three point works, and remotes seem to be pressurizing, or at least they move. Is there some kind of air lock in the power steering, or did it ruin the thing? I've heard tell that the power steering on a 1600 was not all that great anyway, but it had worked flawlessly until today.

Re(1): 1600 D power steering

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 06:24:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Let the tractor set and run for a few minutes. Then try it. If it still doesn't steer, speed the engine up to 2/3 throttle and wiggle your remote levers back and forth rapidly. What you're trying to do is surge oil through the flow divider in case the regulator spool in the flow divider is sticky. Another thing I have found, is moisture gets down into the column below the steering wheel and causes problems. These are just a few ideas. Larry

OLIVER 550 TRANS

IP: 64.136.27.226 Posted on March 26, 2007 at 08:19:52 PM by BILL SHANHOLTZ

I AM IN DIRE NEED OF TWO PARTS FOR THE TRANSMISSION. I NEED A BEARING ADJUSTING NUT PART #1e-601 and a SHAFT CLAMPING NUT PART #1E-606. THESE ARE FOR THE OLIVER 550 TRACTOR. ANY ONE KNOW WERE I CAN BUY THESE PARTS?

Re(1): OLIVER 550 TRANS

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 06:18:24 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get them from your AGCO Dealer or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

770 Oliver head

IP: 66.211.88.158 Posted on March 26, 2007 at 06:01:13 PM by Doug

770 Oliver head the number is 185502D, wondering what the "D" means.

Re(1): 770 Oliver head

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 06:16:25 AM by Larry Harsin

There's A - B - C & D. These just denoted the improvements as they went along. Larry

engine shutdown on model 1800

IP: 68.216.50.57 Posted on March 26, 2007 at 11:11:40 AM by avery moore

I just purchased an Oliver Model 1800 Row crop tractor and it sets and runs like a dream however when I increase the throttle or put the engine under load big enough to activate the govenor, the engine completely shuts down. Since this is a gas engine and it has been setting up for a while could it be carburation or would you think more like the timing

Re(1): engine shutdown on model 1800

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 06:13:43 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be either one. It could be carburation or ignition. The first thing I would check is the flow of fuel through the fuel strainer on the bottom of the tank. Usually, on a tractor such as this, I'd remove the fuel strainer from the tank and clean all of the foreign material out of the neck of the strainer. Then, proceed from there. You may have foreign material in the carb also. Clean that out also. When you have your fuel system in shape, check to see if you have a good blue spark on the ignition. You should have at least a quarter inch of spark between the plug wire and the plug. Larry

Re(2): engine shutdown on model 1800

IP: 64.136.49.229 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 03:24:04 PM by avery moore

I have cleaned the tank and the carb and as you said the carb was full of rust, however even after cleaning the tractor still shuts down at high rev or when the gov. kicks in. any further suggestions

Re(3): engine shutdown on model 1800

IP: 67.2.248.16 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 05:50:03 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe I would start looking at the ignition system and go through that. It may be as simple as that you need new points, or it might be bad plug wires or weak current getting to the coil. Larry

Hydraulic pin stuck on Super 77.

IP: 65.207.240.10 Posted on March 26, 2007 at 07:29:09 AM by Rahn

Last Saturday I tore down the dual hydraulic pump and reservoir on a 1955 Super 77 that I recently purchased. I have found that all of the seals are shot on the pump, the oil pours out around the seals. I also cannot get the right lever to move. I have the reservoir disassembled and it is the rod that moves back and forth in the right valve bank that will not move. I tapped on the rod but didn't get real aggressive with it until I could ask you. Is there something I should look for? What would cause that rod to be frozen in place? Is it repairable or should I look for a different right bank? The only other thing that I noticed was a small amount of rust inside the case from water entering around ripped grommets on the two levers. Could the right bank be rusted stuck on the right side? The rust isn1t very bad, mainly on the piece of steel used as a splash shield. And no water was in the reservoir since it ran right through into the transmission. I have 3-volume service manual and the parts manual but neither really speaks about having a stuck valve bank. Thanks for any info and help you can provide, I have read all of the postings from day one that pretain to 77, S77, & 770. Really appreiciate all you are doing to keep these tractors running!

Re(1): Hydraulic pin stuck on Super 77.

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 06:07:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would just work with it gently. Put some penetrating oil on it and in it and proceed. It should get to working like the other one. If it doesn't, you may have to disassemble the pin (this is called a spool), from the valve. Polish the spool with crocus cloth. While you have things apart, you may want to take the ball checks out of the valve bodies and put new O rings on the seats and the caps. You should thoroughly inspect the center plate on your pump, because of the water. It may be cracked. Larry

Re(2): Hydraulic pin stuck on Super 77.

IP: 65.207.240.10 Posted on March 27, 2007 at 06:58:18 AM by Rahn

Thanks Larry, would you have a hydraulic rebuild kit, gaskets, o-rings, etc.. Also, after I pulled the complete hydraulic assembly off the tractor, I rolled it over and removed the pump, in the larger hole (on the base plate) was a tapered light spring. There was nothing above the spring, and the spring was wide enough at the bottom as to not fall out (kind of wedged to the sides.) It doesn't show up in any of the manuals, why is it there? I did check the center plate visually, will any cracks be visible or does it need to be magna-fluxed?

Re(3): Hydraulic pin stuck on Super 77.

IP: 67.2.248.163 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 06:07:45 AM by Larry Harsin

A crack in the center plate should be obvious to the eye. That spring serves as a strainer so that large objects can't get down into the pump. It is supposed to be "wedged" in there like that. There isn't a rebuild kit. You can order the gaskets from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, or your local AGCO Dealer. The O rings, you can get at any Automotive Supply Store or from a Farm Supply Store, or Tom will have those also. Larry

Oliver 88 clutch pivot pin

IP: 12.189.32.59 Posted on March 25, 2007 at 08:58:25 PM by Greg Mueller

Larry, Doing some cleanup/gasket replacement on 1951 Oliver 88 and noticed wear on pivot pin for clutch pedal. Looking at parts book this pin appears to be a press fit into the rear housing. Have you ever replaced any of these pivot pins? If you did, what was the procedure for removal?

Re(1): Oliver 88 clutch pivot pin

IP: 67.2.248.126 Posted on March 26, 2007 at 06:23:57 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I have not. I'm not sure how I'd go about it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 clutch pivot pin

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on April 6, 2007 at 00:44:00 AM by J. Ulmer

I fixed a worn shaft I did not want to remove by using a wire welder (gas shielded and not flux core) and spotted the worn pin and then filed and emory clothed it back into round shape. Stick flux welding makes too many splatters. Just touch a little at a time and you won't get anything too hot. Jerry

1950T

IP: 205.188.117.71 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 05:35:02 PM by Norman

I have a 1950T Oliver and i was wondering what the normal oil pressure level should be. I have seen it get very low at times and have gotten a little bit scared.

Re(1): 1950T

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 05:44:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You don't want it to be below 20 lbs when it is warmed up and the engine is idling. I would check the rod and main bearings on the crankshaft. Also, I would check the oil pump and make sure it isn't worn too much. Larry

Re(2): 1950T

IP: 205.188.116.70 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 06:13:43 PM by Norman

The tractor only has 2100 hours on it. It is stil original on it. Could a bypass valve be stuck in it? If something is worn how could you fix it?

Re(3): 1950T

IP: 67.2.242.47 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 08:52:57 PM by Larry Harsin

It's possible that a by-pass valve is stuck. I'd check the bearings on the crankshaft. If these bearings are o.k., then I would check the relief valves on the right front quarter of the engine block. There is also one on the oil pump itself. Larry

55 Oliver

IP: 67.59.61.220 Posted on March 23, 2007 at 11:38:33 PM by Andy Goss

I am looking for the point gap and carberator setting for this 55 Oliver that I own. I dont know if it makes a difference what year or not, but I am not sure of the year

Re(1): 55 Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.62 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 06:55:21 AM by Larry Harsin

The point gap is .022. The idle mixture is out 3/4 of a turn and the load needle is out 1 1/2 turns. These are initial settings, then adjust them after that point. Larry

super 55

IP: 12.74.205.201 Posted on March 23, 2007 at 08:29:02 PM by robert

will the trans gears and parts from a standard 77 fit the super 55. Or is the standard 77 a totally different animal. dilema the guy will sell the standard 77 for $600.00 he is one hour away. however there is a guy that is 5 hours away says he has all the gears i need to rebuild my trans on the super 55 for 500.00 however they are used.

Re(1): super 55

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on March 23, 2007 at 08:47:38 PM by Larry Harsin

The 77 transmission is not anything like the S55 transmission. Larry

1355 diesel

IP: 205.130.16.220 Posted on March 23, 2007 at 03:55:00 PM by Gary Greenland

I have a 1355 diesel with zero oil pressure. Not a drop will it pump. I dropped the pan cover and removed the bottom of the oil pump. Nothing was broken or showing much wear. The # 10 issue of the Heritage has an article that suggests that the pump is sucking air. Do I replace the entire pump or can I get just the relief valve assembly? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Re(1): 1355 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on March 23, 2007 at 08:45:25 PM by Larry Harsin

That tractor was built by Fiat, and I don't know. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Cleaning up residue from water in the oil

IP: 71.50.248.144 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 07:58:49 PM by Rod

Hi Larry, A few weeks ago when I had a foot of snow, the front wheels of my Super 55 HG slipped off the edge of a ditch and the hot oil pan spent about 30 minutes laying in the snow. I think there was a considerable amount of condensation because of the snow and now I have water in my oil. Or, I have a blown head gasket (or cracked head). Either way, the foamy residue is all over everything in my crankcase (it was even inside the governor when I took that off). Should I just replace the oil or should I do something to clean up all the gunk that is stuck to everything. I'm afraid that if I leave it in there, it will just ruin the new oil. What do you suggest? Should I try to flush the engine with something? The water in my oil is clear, but I'm running a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze in the engine. If my head were leaking, wouldn't I be seeing antifreeze in the oil instead of clear water?

Re(1): Cleaning up residue from water in the oil

IP: 67.2.248.49 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 09:38:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it is just condensation in the engine. I'd drain the oil and refill it with new oil and use the tractor. This is if it isn't anti-freeze. You say it is clear water, so I don't believe it is anti-freeze. Larry

1555

IP: 69.129.82.33 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 07:34:41 PM by Billy

I have oil coming back up and out at the steering wheel? Not exactly sure where to start. Thanks for the help.

Re(1): 1555

IP: 67.2.248.49 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 09:34:04 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to remove the steering wheel and the steering column to get in there and replace the seal on the top of the hydra motor. You'll have to disconnect your gauges and lift the instrument panel up over the column, after you remove the steering wheel. You can get a seal from your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You may want to have your AGCO Dealer install this seal for you. Larry

1750 Gas and Diesel

IP: 63.229.173.7 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 05:04:47 PM by matt

I just got two tractors both 1750 Olivers on is gas and one diesel. The diesel has 6,000 hours and was told the engine was overhauled at about 5000 hours, new injector about 5700 and it has sat in the shed for 10plus years. I am tryinig to strat it but no fuel will come out of the injector, the shut off cable is missing so i don't know what direction the switch should be. ANy other ideas? The gas runs rough but will not move when clutch is out. It moves a little then stops, is it the clutch or the over under?? gas has 3500 hours on it.

Re(1): 1750 Gas and Diesel

IP: 4.249.111.242 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 05:11:04 PM by Larry from md

On the diesel the cut off lever should be forward to run, back to stop.

Re(2): 1750 Gas and Diesel

IP: 205.245.255.29 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 09:20:23 PM by Jeff Schneider

If the gas tractor has been sitting as long as the diesel it could be any combination of things. How rough is it running? If it's barely pulling on a few cylinders it may not have enough power to get itself underway.(I'm guessing it dies?) I would attempt to get it running smooth then troubleshoot the inability to move more than a few feet. If you think it has a problem with the hydra-power I would try leaving it in "direct". There's really not enough information given other than for me to speculate.

Re(3): 1750 Gas and Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.49 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 09:30:25 PM by Larry Harsin

The shut off lever should be forward. You need to get an Operator's Manual for these tractors. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Then you can make your questions more clear to us. Larry

Re(4): 1750 Gas and Diesel

IP: 63.229.173.7 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 12:00:19 PM by Matt

The diesel does not get fuel out of the injector, making me think it is the shut off. The gas is missing, and when opened up it is sluggish, when you try to move it in over,direct or under in any gear it hardly moves, now, here is the thing, the guy I bought them off said both need clutches. I have not had a chance, to see if the gas has the shaft moving from the clutch while trying to move it. Like I said before, I got these two, have not messed with them yet, but they are my first olivers. I have may mm, farmalls and massey, and thought they would be fun to work on. What are they worth any ideas, 2 tractors, tins is very good, in need of straighting one rear fender, needs seats, gas about 3500 hours, diesel about 6700 hours suppose to be rebuild, tires are 50% or better, both near front, What do they weigh??

Re(5): 1750 Gas and Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on March 25, 2007 at 12:25:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Basically you have 2 non-running tractors (This is what it boils down to). I'd say $2000 - $2500 for the pair. If they were running and driveable tractors, they'd be worth a lot more than that - possibly $2500 or more each. The shipping weight on them was 8000 lbs. each. Fluid in tires would make a difference. After you get your Operator's Manuals, check all of the fluid levels. Check all of the drains and make sure there is no water in the various compartments. After you have them running, I would put new oil into the engines and change the oil filters and also change the diesel fuel filters. If there was signs of moisture in the other oils, I would change them and put in new filters also. Then go from there. Larry

1850 engine swap

IP: 205.208.133.72 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 09:26:29 AM by tom hamilton

I recently put a 354 perkins in place of my blown 310 gas,now the starter does not seem to have enough power to turn the engine,do you have any sugestions to the best way of solving this? Any ideas would be helpful.

Re(1): 1850 engine swap

IP: 67.2.248.49 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 09:23:36 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll probably have to put in more battery capacity than what you originally had. The 1850 diesel had 2 large 6 volt batteries hooked in series. You may have to go to this set-up. Look in your 1850 Operator's Manual and it will show you what you need. Larry

520 Oliver Baler

IP: 207.160.221.252 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 10:49:11 AM by Colton

I was wondering where i could buy parts for my baler or if they still made after market parts. i mainly need a PTO Clutch on the fly wheel.

(1): 520 Oliver Baler

IP: 24.208.202.151 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 12:22:35 PM by Jeff Schneider

I also have the 520 baler. I was just at the AGCO dealer today wanting the same thing. My baler has a cobbled on "TSC" clutch and PTO shaft. The shaft is bent and they didn't center the spline coupling they welded on to the clutch mounting plate to accept that "TSC" clutch. (I can only guess the vibration this causes. I haven't run the baler yet) So I wanted to replace with original Oliver units. I found out that they have good partnumbers in the system for them. The whole drive clutch assembly is partnumber 519 505-ES, just the drive clutch is 516 286-ES. (This is from my parts book. AGCO adds a couple of letters on front, but your parts man will know this.) In my case I wanted a whole clutch plus the drive shafts. What I wanted is no longer available (obsolete parts) and unless I can find it at a salvage yard the dealership said "Good luck". You however, might be able to get just the clutch. I didn't try for that. I needed other parts and was able to get all the various springs, some tine fingers, and the main bearing on the plunger arm. My dealer actually had some of it in stock and what they didn't they will have within a few days. Just not the "obsolete" listed items.

Re(2): 520 Oliver Baler

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 09:37:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I have a complete NOS over-running drive clutch for a baler in my parts. I'll check the number and get back to you. Larry

e(3): 520 Oliver Baler

IP: 67.2.242.37 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 07:49:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Well, Guys, I checked and what I have is part of an over-ride clutch. This is not what you need. Sorry. Larry

Re(4): 520 Oliver Baler

IP: 205.188.116.15 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 05:36:48 PM by Colton

Thanks!

800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 24.208.202.151 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 06:25:58 PM by Jeff Schneider

Larry, I posted last year with a problem concerning my 3 point lift as part of a problem with not having pressure to my remotes after replacing the rockshaft/hydraulic housing (the original was damaged). The remote problem was solved by removing a plug that was installed making the casting set up for "power beyond". All 4 remotes work just fine, but I still had no 3 point lift. With hay season in I needed the tractor, so I put repair of the three point off. However, since then I tried a second servo valve that came with the replacement casting. No help. The lift piston is bottomed out in the cylinder. It does absolutely nothing (control linkage hooked up or not). Now that spring has come around again I've pulled the housing off the tractor for another go around. I seem to have fluid in all the passages. I thought I might find the safety valve stuck open, but it is not. If I take shop air and direct it down through one of the ports of the rockshaft cylinder I can push the piston out (provided I put my finger over an opposite port). There seems to be nothing wrong with the lift cylinder that I can see. I'm using the original that was in the tractor prior to my replacement of the housing. I should also mention that when I bought this tractor the 3 point did not work before either. This was prior to the casting swap so I wonder if it's not the cylinder. I do have a second cylinder, but it has rust in the bore and would need cleaning up externally if I were to try it. Putting shop air in in the same port pushed it's piston out in the same fashion, making me think I should just stay with cylinder #1. I don't have a flow diagram so I'm trial and error just trying to figure the fluid path out. This brings me to the servo valve(s). Both have free sliding pilot spools. I can only guess about the remaining others. I haven't taken either apart. Could my problem be in the servo valve (or in my case could I have two bad valves)? I also have one other curiosity on my housing. I have a fluid tube located on the front right side that comes from the hydra-electric pack and goes to a fitting on the top of the lift housing. On earlier tractors I understand this would have been the port for an external by-pass valve. I swapped the tube and fittings over from my original casting as the casting I bought had all this plugged off. Is this tube needed? Could this be bleeding my "internal manifold" off? There is no external valve. Additionally, I'm using the original hydraulic switchpack that was on my tractor before this swap. All partnumbers are the same in the castings and on the servo vave bodies. The only differences I had were with steering priority valves, but I used the original to my tractor. I also replaced all orings and gaskets including the one on the lift piston. Sorry for such a long post, just trying to give an accurate description of what all I've done and tried. I could have more than 1 bad part I suppose. Thanks.

Re(1): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 67.2.248.238 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 08:38:00 PM by Larry Harsin

That external valve with the piping is a by-pass valve to make it possible to run one way cylinders. When that valve is being used, the fluid bypasses the servo and the 3 pt. will not work. To use the 3 pt., screw in the plunger on that valve and block it so that the oil will go through the servo valve. Larry

Re(2): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 24.208.202.151 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 07:48:06 AM by Jeff Schneider

I think you just solved my problem. I don't have an external bypass valve on my tractor. There is just a 1/2" tube coming out the front of the switchpack going into the top of the hydraulic housing. There are no restrictions in this line. Upon further investigation using my I.T. shop manual pictures as a guide I don't have an internal bypass valve either (no capscrew located on the right side by the brake pedal locks, atleast not on the housing I'm using. I didn't look at my removed unit to see what it had. From your description, if I remove the line and plug this port there is a good chance my 3 point will work. I will also check out the flow control spool in the servo valve just to be safe. I don't own any single acting cylinders so I shouldn't need the bypass valve.

Re(2): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 67.2.248.238 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 08:44:45 PM by Larry Harsin I would make sure that in that servo valve, the regulator spool is not sticking part way open. I've seen this. It actually controls the flow of oil going into the servo valve. Larry

Re(3): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 24.208.202.151 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 08:39:12 AM by Jeff Schneider

See my other post. You think that could be it?

Re(4): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 4.249.102.105 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 10:11:05 AM by Larry from md

If you don't have the bolt by your right heal then you NEED one. The sealing ball is in the cylinder part from you first unit,so if it has the bolt you need one in the new unit.

Re(5): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 24.208.202.151 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 11:52:29 AM by Jeff Schneider

I would have to add the external bypass valve if it's needed. There is NO place by my right heal to screw anything in. If you have an "IT" manual, it is Fig 0228 and Fig 0229 on page 139. My housing is more like that shown with an external bypass valve. When I got this hydraulic housing from the salvage yard there was a plug in the port on the fwd right side of the the hydraulic switchpack that was installed on it. I swapped my switchpack and line over to this hydraulic housing. It seemed the thing to do at the time and so much for casting numbers being the same. I'm going to try putting a plug back in this port. If what Mr. Harsin suggested, that the three point won't work unless the bypass is closed then plugging this port should be my fix since I don't have a bypass valve. I just have a 1/2" line dumping fluid back into the pump sump of my hydraulic housing, just as if the bypass valve was open. Crossing my fingers....

Re(6): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 4.249.204.194 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 04:35:10 PM by Larry from md There is supposed to be a steel ball in there in the inner casting. That is what does the sealing of the oil. You can't seal it with the bolt only. When you loosen the bolt the ball moves out and the oil is forced down into the bottem. When in tight it holds the oil in.

Re(7): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 205.245.254.193 Posted on March 21, 2007 at 08:23:22 PM by Jeff Schneider

Larry from MD, I checked my original casting. It is just like the one I have installed. There is no place by my right heel (where the brake locks are) to put a bolt/ball in, not even a plug at this location. My casting does not seem to be equipped with an internal by-pass valve if I go by the pictures in my shop manual. I could be wrong about the by-pass valve, but there is definitely not a place on the right side to install a bolt and ball. I wish I could just post a picture of what I have. I'm sure it would make things simplier. I haven't had the chance to finish putting it all back together to try putting a plug in the fwd port on the right side of the hydraulic switch pack. I'll report back when I've tried this. Thanks for all your suggestions.

Re(8): 1800B 3 point lift problem

IP: 24.208.202.151 Posted on March 28, 2007 at 00:55:05 AM by Jeff Schneider

I got everything back together. I removed the line that was in place of where an external by-pass valve should have been installed and capped off the ports. Three point works now. Thanks again for all the help Mr. Harsin. You got me pointed in the right direction.

Super 88 D

IP: 64.45.254.54 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 08:53:23 PM by Chris

I have a super 88 diesel that wont start without a sniff of ether,even after it is warmed up. The starter is freshly rebuilt and cranking speed seems fast enough.Thanks.

Re(1): Super 88 D

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 09:03:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be low compression or it could be a weak injection head. If the engine does not smoke when you are cranking it, I would be inclined to think it is the injection head. Otherwise, I would lean toward the low compression diagnosis. Larry

(2): Super 88 D

IP: 216.46.212.84 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 08:57:14 AM by Randy Lund

Larry,just a thought here,I've had this kind of thing happen before and it was the primary fuel pump. It just wasn't pushing the fuel through the filters. The injector pump was,I assume,trying to pull it through.

Re(3): Super 88 D

IP: 67.2.248.238 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 08:24:50 PM by Larry Harsin

That's a good point. You are right. You can get a repair kit for that lift pump, from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681 Email: korves@htc.net Larry

steps

IP: 71.208.17.81 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 08:45:23 PM by Gerry

My 1600 had the stepups removed before I got it. Which ones might fit it--do you have any in your parts stores?

Re(1): steps IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 09:00:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I have some. Give me a call 712-362-2966. You might also find one at a Salvage Yard. Larry

Olver Super 88

IP: 148.177.1.213 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 02:34:13 PM by joe kentoffio

Larry: I have a 1955 Super 88 diesel. In the past this tractor has started and run very well. Unfortunately, I failed to start it for about a year. Now, it still starts and runs well, but there is a banging sound every 20-30 seconds. I can feel it under my feet. Someone suggested it was a stuck valve so I removed the valve cover and tapped the valve springs with a wooden block and hammer. The sound is still there. I don't think it is a stuck valve as the sound seems to be coming from lower down in the block or back by the transmission. I would appreciate any advice you might have.

Re(1): Olver Super 88

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 08:58:43 PM by Larry Harsin

It's possible maybe, that something is in one of the engine's cylinders. A piece of foreign material, perhaps. I would unscrew the manifold preheater coil out of the manifold and check it. I have seen these start breaking up and pieces go into the engine. Larry

Re(2): Olver Super 88

IP: 148.177.1.213 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 01:53:22 PM by joe kentoffio

Larry: Thanks for the reply. I am not familiar with diesels so let me ask could this banging occur because there is water in the fuel? The fuel has been in the tank for over a year and the tank is not full, so there could be condensation. I drain the bottom of the fuel tank before I start the tractor, but I suppose this does not insure that the fuel is free from water. thanks, Joe

e(3): Olver Super 88

IP: 67.2.248.238 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 08:29:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't believe it is water in the fuel. The filters on that tractor will not allow water to get into the injection pump. By the way, if water should get into that injection pump, it will be ruined!! Another possibility, if you do not find trouble with the preheater coil, you could have broken piston rings or rod bushings or wrist pin bushings that have gone bad. Larry

1650

IP: 207.231.118.49 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 03:27:21 AM by corre k

I have a deisel tha t i have apart it was driping oil bad from rear seal but when I got it apart i seen a pipe plug in the back of the motor that is loose it seems to have oil behind it wonder if it is an oil galwery plug or not plus the hydriluic pump was leaking but I founf that there was only the steel pan there no top gasket the pump looks new I pulled the seal and shaft and seal look good would you replace pump it is tight no end play wonder if the gasket thing was all the problem with oil in teh rear end or should I replace the pump to thanks for ant help Corre k

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 05:54:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There is an oil gallery that can leak oil on the back of that engine. That could very well be your problem. After I have gone to the work of getting to that hydraulic pump, if I have any question about the pump, I replace it. Larry

Re(2): 1650

IP: 207.231.118.139 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 03:28:05 AM by corre k

thanks for the help Larry I replaced the pump thanks again Corre

oliver 77 ring gear

IP: 68.191.165.225 Posted on March 18, 2007 at 07:16:49 PM by wagsw900

Hi Larry. I was wondering where I can find a flywheel ring for a 1951 RC 77 gas. Been looking through some magazines and websites without much luck. Any help would be great!!

Re(1): oliver 77 ring gear

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 08:51:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I have a good used flywheel and starter ring for a 77. I'll email you. Larry

1800B again

IP: 74.38.188.51 Posted on March 18, 2007 at 06:53:33 PM by Jeff Oliver

Got the rebuilt injectors in and new pushrod. Cured the misss and seems to run alot better. Haven't run it enough yet to see if I am still getting fuel in the oil although I plan in it in the next week or so. What I am running into now is that the tractor seems harder to start than before. I know it is about 1 1/2-2 degrees off on timing but it was doing fine before. Now it just turns over and over and seems to be flooding. It will eventually start and run good. My question is thatsince I now have injectors that are working right could this be a compression (or lack of) problem? Anything else to check? If nothing else about this tractor it has been a learning experience. Haha I'm not nearly as afraid to tear into a motor as I used to be :)

Re(1): 1800B again

IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 05:47:46 AM by Larry Harsin

It certainly can be a compression problem. It can also be a low cranking speed problem. Such as a tired starter, a weak battery or batteries or bad battery cables or connections. Or it could be a combination of any of the above. Larry

Re(2): 1800B again

IP: 74.38.188.51 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 03:39:54 PM by Jeff Oliver

ok thanks. I was thinking maybe compression as it has a new battery and the starter was rebuilt before all of this started. The good news is that I ma not getting smoke now so maybe all it needs is rings. Hehe oh well if not I'll just learn more :)

1958 super 55

IP: 12.74.207.132 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 09:57:54 PM by robert

My tractor runs good and shifts good but after a hour it starts not wanting to shift and wants to grind in every gear so i have to shut it off and than start it in gear. is this a problem with a worn pressure plate and clutch. It also throws the gear out of low first or am i looking at rebuilding the trans. If so where can i go to get the parts.

Re(1): 1958 super 55

IP: 67.2.248.92 Posted on March 18, 2007 at 06:29:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I think part of your problem is the clutch (the grinding). I don't think it is releasing properly. It may need to have the fingers adjusted on the pressure plate. As far as the shifting, it could be a problem in the transmission, I don't know for sure. Something to check when it is jumping out of gear are the poppet springs on the shifting mechanism (there are 3 of them). This is most likely when they jump out of gear, and this is an easy fix. Larry

S55 HC Won't rev over 1000

IP: 71.50.248.144 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 03:23:10 PM by Rod

Re(1): S55 HC Won't rev over 1000

IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 09:32:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Re(2): S55 HC Won't rev over 1000

IP: 71.50.248.144 Posted on March 22, 2007 at 07:45:55 PM by Rod

1678 white oliver tractor

IP: 4.245.78.169 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 11:30:20 AM by Ron Coleman

I recently purchased a 1678 industrial loader. the tag on the tractor says 465-92019 for the model number. the model number on the loader is 1678. Where can I find any info as to what engine is it or what size it is or where I can get parts. I need a connector for the fuel return rail to the number 1 injector, it is cracked and leaks fuel.

Re(1): 1678 white oliver tractor

IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 09:24:39 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@faia.net Does the tag also have a serial number? I'm guessing the tractor is a 2-78 Industrial tractor which is like a 1655 engine. You can get those connectors from John Deere. They use the same connector. Larry

1800 filters

IP: 12.207.32.225 Posted on March 16, 2007 at 09:10:05 PM by Mike

I just bought a 1800c gas oliver tractor and would like to change oil and filters for the hydraulics and engine oil. where can a guy buy the proper filters and what type oil/hyd fluid should I use? thanks a bunch Mike

Re(1): 1800 filters

IP: 67.2.249.96 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 06:32:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I get my filters from AGCO. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I use a medium non-foaming hydraulic oil in the hydraulic. For engine oil, the most popular anymore is 15-40 heavy duty engine oil. That would be appropriate. You can get an Operator's Manual for your tractor from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry

serial #

IP: 207.69.137.34 Posted on March 15, 2007 at 03:12:55 PM by Tony

I bought a 70 Oliver and was wondering for sure what year it is. Was told it was a 44 model. The serial tag is as follows;265344 Thanks

Re(1): serial #

IP: 67.2.248.82 Posted on March 15, 2007 at 08:41:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Your Oliver 70 was built in 1948, one of the last ones built. Larry

Re(2): serial #

IP: 207.69.137.35 Posted on March 16, 2007 at 03:21:35 PM by Tony

Thank you, but how in the heck does that no. decode as 1948. I am not at all doubting you, but I am curious. Thanks again

Re(3): serial #

IP: 67.2.249.96 Posted on March 17, 2007 at 06:28:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number on the first Oliver 70 built in 1948 was 262840. 1948 was the last year the Oliver 70 was built. Your serial number was 265344, coming after 262840, thus it was built in the last year they were produced. Larry

road speed

IP: 12.205.163.151 Posted on March 14, 2007 at 12:16:18 PM by Scott Anderson

What would I have to do to my row crop 66 to increase the road speed? It only runs about 10 mph now. Also, would I have to change the coil if I switch the tractor over to a 12 volt system?

Re(1): road speed

IP: 216.46.213.66 Posted on March 14, 2007 at 12:58:15 PM by Randy Lund

If you have a set of 2.0 guage battery cables made for that and have the ground cable made long enough to ground to the bell housing where the starter bolts on,you won't need to change it to 12 volt.Guaranteed.

Re(2): road speed

IP: 67.2.249.199 Posted on March 14, 2007 at 08:42:26 PM by Larry Harsin

If you want to change it to 12 volt, you can put a resistor ahead of the coil and that will do it. There are 2 ways to increase the ground speed. Either put bigger wheels on the tractor or one of the older self propelled combines built in the 50's (I think it was number 33), had a 66 transmission with 5th and 6th faster. That would mean you would have to find those gears and put them into your tractor. I think there are 3 gears involved. Look in a 66 parts book and it will be the gears for an Industrial transmission rather than the row crop. You'll have to search salvage yards or advertise in the collector magazines, for one of those combines. Larry

1600 Front End Options

IP: 74.129.230.16 Posted on March 13, 2007 at 08:45:18 PM by Noel Putman

I am looking at a 1600 Narrow Front End. What are the options to change out to a Wide Front End? 1650? 1800? 1850? Will they bolt up? Thank you very much for your input.

Re(1): 1600 Front End Options IP: 67.2.248.8 Posted on March 14, 2007 at 06:16:40 AM by Larry Harsin

They will all bolt up. There is also a set-back front end that will bolt up. Larry

Re(2): 1600 Front End Options

IP: 74.129.230.16 Posted on March 14, 2007 at 08:39:48 PM by Noel Putman

Hey, I saw pictures of that set-back front and wondered what that was. Thanks much, Noel

Re(3): 1600 Front End Options

IP: 71.208.17.81 Posted on March 19, 2007 at 08:42:49 PM by Gerry

I've been thinking of changing my narrow front end for a wide. would it make sense to trade? Larry, how easy is the change?

e(4): 1600 Front End Options

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on March 20, 2007 at 05:46:19 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to have some jacks and a chain hoist, to change it. It isn't real easy, but it's doable. I do them all of the time. Whether you need one or not, depends on how you use your tractor and what you want. The wide front takes up more room in the shed. There is more maintenance on a wide front, as there are more tie-rod ends etc. But in some use situations, they're safer. Larry

oliver 880 lp fuel

IP: 70.135.2.14 Posted on March 13, 2007 at 10:21:09 AM by jim kimble

i just found an old oliver 880 lp fueled tractor. it has a front mounted fork lift. the front tires are traction type. it does not seem to be 4x4 but everything about this tractor is huge.the for sale sign says RUNS GOOD. the price is cheep enough. about what year would it be. thanks, jim

Re(1): oliver 880 lp fuel

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on March 13, 2007 at 08:42:10 PM by Larry Harsin

880's were produced from the fall of 1958 through 1963. Get the serial number and we can tell you exactly. It should be on the left side of the dash, below the steering wheel. Larry

Re(2): oliver 880 lp fuel

IP: 70.128.243.122 Posted on March 14, 2007 at 09:28:20 AM by jim kimble

thanks larry,for the information. since this is a for sale machine, i will get more information when i look at it more. agin, thanks for the help.

OC46

IP: 68.81.128.136 Posted on March 12, 2007 at 12:22:54 PM by Dave

A friend has an Oliver OC46 with a 3 cylinder gas Hercules engine. I forget the exact year. What else was this engine used in (Oliver or not)? Where can I get parts for it (besides Zimmerman). Thanks. Take care.

Re(1): OC46

IP: 76.208.27.76 Posted on March 12, 2007 at 04:39:24 PM by 90%ret'd

Here is one I found from Google,there are several more when you use "Hercules Engines" http://www.kraftpower.com/hercules/herculesprods.html

Re(2): OC46

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on March 13, 2007 at 06:25:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of any other places other than Zimmerman. Larry

1850 3 Pt.

IP: 71.7.42.69 Posted on March 10, 2007 at 09:03:55 PM by alan rose

i have a 1850 oliver the 3 point would not go down and found a broken pin linkage.also remote cyinder cupers have presere all the time and you can here the motor working when at a idol. can you give me some hints on how to fix it?

Re(1):1850 3 Pt.

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on March 11, 2007 at 07:36:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Alan. This deal with the engine laboring, I think is because the 3 pt. control link is out of adjustment. This adjustment is below the 3 pt. hitch lever, on the outside of the unit. It is a threaded rod about 4" long. When the 3 pt. arms are in the raised position, there should be 1 - 2" of free travel at the top of the stroke. This should cure the engine laboring problem. About the couplers having pressure, this is the nature of this tractor. When the engine is laboring, that causes pressure on all of the couplers. So, when you get your engine problem fixed, it should fix the coupler problem. Larry

1855 Oliver Block

IP: 152.163.100.195 Posted on March 9, 2007 at 05:15:32 PM by Randy

We recently had our engine rebuilt for our 1855 tractor - today we were informed that they put pistons & rings in for a 1755 tractor. Will this cause problems down the road? (compression problems on rings?) Our 1855 is turbo charged.

Re(1): 1855 Oliver Block

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on March 10, 2007 at 07:14:39 AM by Larry Harsin

They are both 310 engines and have the same set-up. It should work fine. Larry

Re(2): 1855 Oliver Block

IP: 64.12.116.69 Posted on March 10, 2007 at 07:14:06 PM by randy

so you would not tear down &correct this problem?

Re(3): 1855 Oliver Block

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on March 11, 2007 at 07:24:19 AM by Larry Harsin

No. If the tractor runs fine and performs fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Larry

Re(4): 1855 Oliver Block

IP: 70.105.70.117 Posted on March 16, 2007 at 10:15:18 PM by doug wenig

the only thing to remember is that the 1855 had a keystone shaped top compression ring and the 1755 had a plain square shaped ring... should not be a problem unless you plan on working the tractor very hard for long periods of time

88 engine in a 1555

IP: 69.129.82.33 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 05:53:02 PM by Jeremy Killinger

I have come across a 88 engine in great shape and need to replace my 1555 due to a busted block. Can I bolt the 88 right in or will there be problems? Is the 88 engine to small for the 1555?

Re(1): 88 engine in a 1555

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 10:50:42 PM by Larry Harsin

The 88 engine is a bit larger than the 1555. The rear engine block bolts will line up, but you'll probably have to redrill the bolt holes in the frame of the tractor for the front engine bolts. Otherwise, I believe it will fit. The 88 engine will have more power, if it has the 3 3/4 sleeves and pistons. Larry

Re(2): 88 engine in a 1555

IP: 69.129.82.33 Posted on March 9, 2007 at 10:59:14 PM by Jeremy Killinger

TractorData.com says that the engine is rated for about 8 hp less than the original 1555 engine? Does that make sense to you?

Re(3): 88 engine in a 1555

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on March 10, 2007 at 07:12:34 AM by Larry Harsin

The typical 88 engine has been overbored to 265 cu. in. (like and 880), and will have more hp than your 1555. If it has 3 3/4 piston (and it already has a longer stroke). Larry

Re(4): 88 engine in a 1555

IP: 70.153.117.247 Posted on March 11, 2007 at 08:54:16 AM by George Steadman

I don't think you will have to redrill the mounts but the block from the 1550 is shorter than an 88 which will require some work in the driveline area. Have put a 310 in and a 880 in a couple of 77's the mounts have always lined up; the length of the motor has always been the concern. Check fan clearance to the radiator as well shouldn't be an issue with the 1550 but it is with the 77 thru 770.

oil leak on 550

IP: 72.159.2.254 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 01:20:23 PM by yeager

I am losing oil in my 3 point hitch and am not sure where its going .it shows no external leakage

Re(1): oil leak on 550

IP: 72.198.206.229 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 05:06:39 PM by Larry Kruse

Have your checked the level of oil in your rear end? I would have the largest possible bucket under it when you remove the plug. If the oil is not leaking out, it could be leaking into the rear end. (hole in the pan, or a leaking pump or gasket).

Re(2): oil leak on 550

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 10:47:05 PM by Larry Harsin

We have been gone for a couple of days. Larry Kruse has covered all the possibilities for you. Larry

1550 Carb

IP: 4.225.87.188 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 11:29:51 AM by Roy Wrightsman

I have a '65 1550 with a TSX 903 Marvel-Schebler carb. Will a carb off a 770 (TSX-755) or a carb off a 1650 (TSX-807) work as a replacement on the 1550, and if so, what (if any) performance issues would exist? Also, how often does the diaphragm fail on the Holley distributors on the 1550, or does it?

Re(1): 1550 Carb

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 10:43:47 PM by Larry Harsin

No. These carbs will not work. Those diaphrams seldom fail. The bad part is that you can't get new ones. Larry

310 Diesel Head

IP: 138.64.8.54 Posted on March 8, 2007 at 10:58:29 AM by Chase

What were the stock intake and exhaust valve sizes in a 310 diesel head. Thanks.

Re(1): 310 Diesel Head

IP: 67.2.248.191 Posted on March 11, 2007 at 06:49:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The intake is 1.7187. The exhaust is 1.505. Larry

Wagner Iron Works Loader for Oliver Super 55

IP: 68.26.72.141 Posted on March 7, 2007 at 06:18:54 PM by Robert Mehrten

Looking for drive shaft from damper wheel to hydralic pump on a oliver supper 55.

Re(1): Wagner Iron Works Loader for Oliver Super 55

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on March 11, 2007 at 07:26:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The shaft that I have is approx. 14" long. It is splined on one end and has a key-way on the other end. If this is what you need, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

head torque pattern 1550

IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on March 6, 2007 at 04:52:03 AM by shad speer

I have a 1550 diesel but apparently it has a 77 or super 77 engine in it. I am getting ready to put the head back on and was just wondering if the torque and pattern is the same as what it says in my 1550 manual.

Re(1): head torque pattern 1550

IP: 67.2.248.39 Posted on March 6, 2007 at 07:47:40 AM by Larry Harsin

It is the same. Larry

White 2-85 fluids

IP: 64.12.116.67 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 08:33:01 PM by Steve

Can I use IH Hytran in the hydraulic, over/under and transmission on a 2-85? What is the difference between boss universal fluid and boss 55 hydraulic oil? 80w90 isn't used anymore? Thanks.

Re(1): White 2-85 fluids

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 11:06:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Do not use Hytran in the hydraulic. I would use the 55 Hydraulic oil from AGCO, or it's equivilant. The Hytran does not handle water or moisture as well as your 55 Hydraulic oil from AGCO. I'm told that the JD Hy-Guard handles the moisture in this instance. 80w90 is used in the rear end and transmission. In the Hydraul Shift, I use ATF. I think AGCO has a universal fluid that may be the same as the 55 Hydraulic oil. Check with your dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

55 series olivers

IP: 68.142.56.237 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 08:10:01 PM by hal saunders

I know the 1855 was a problem keeping the motor together. I have a 1755 [1975 model]. I love this tractor and have worked it hard. I now have a chance to buy a 1955 tractor [1974 model ]. Does this tractor have a better track record than the 1855 at standing up. Understand that I am talking about diesel models on all of these.I also have a chance to buy a white 2-105 which is a good model that replaced the 1955. My question is what do you think of the 1955?

Re(1): 55 series olivers

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 11:00:19 PM by Larry Harsin

There were a lot of people that had good luck with the 1955. In our area, a lot of the 1855's that blew up within a year or two of when they were built, Oliver replaced the engine with a new 1955 engine. The difference was that the 1955 had the oil cooler incorporated in the block. Today, if I was working an 1855 or 1955 very hard, I would make the oil pan 2" deeper, so that it would hold 3 more qts. of oil. Larry

Super 99 GM

IP: 66.115.254.147 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 07:38:44 PM by Ryan Kammerer

I was filling the machine with fuel when I noticed that there was a steady stream of oil was leaking a from the left brake cover, and I was wondering if there is a bearing that could have went out or if there is a drain hole that was possibly plugged? The oil quit leaking after about 15 to 20 minutes had passed. I was wondering, do the Super 99 GM's have wet or dry brakes.

Re(1): Super 99 GM

IP: 67.2.242.109 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 06:27:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Oily brakes are a common complaint on S99's. These brakes probably need to be taken apart, cleaned up and new seals put in. There are drain holes to let oil out, when it leaks by the seal. Many times, they are plugged. When you get the brakes apart, check the bearings and take appropriate measures. These are dry brakes that are usually wet. Larry

Re(2): Super 99 GM

IP: 66.115.254.147 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 05:24:19 PM by Ryan Kammerer

I have noticed that when operating the machine in the third and fourth gears that there is a slight grinding hum, do you know what that is caused by?

Re(3): Super 99 GM

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 10:53:21 PM by Larry Harsin

It may or may not be anything. If I was worried that something was wrong, I would drain the grease out of the trans and rear end and look for shavings or broken metal parts. Those transmissions had a bit of noise, so this isn't uncommon. Larry

easy breathing

IP: 71.208.17.81 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 05:28:29 PM by Gerry

I have a 1600. Runs pretty darn good at my altitude (8200 ft) but do you know of anyone that makes or has made a kit to give it an easier "breath" like maybe a different manifold, head, carburator, etc. I'm thinking of getting a rebuild on the carb to help with the altitude as well. ideas welcome

Re(1): easy breathing

IP: 67.2.242.109 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 06:22:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of anyone who furnishes this type of parts. If the tractor runs well, I'd be inclined to leave it "as is". Larry

Small holes in 88 block??

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 04:05:30 PM by Dan

Larry, I looked at an 1951 88 Diesel and noticed that on the left side of the block, just above the injector pump, there was 3 small holes. The first two were in-line and probably 3" apart, and there was one immediately below the top one, probably 1-1/2" lower. I didn't see a 4th hole, but it may have been covered by grease if it was there. The holes were small, maybe an 1/8" or less. It almost looked like there was some kind of riveted nameplate there that was missing and the holes were rivet holes? I should have tried to find a paperclip or something and poke at them to see how deep they were. Coolant level was not full, but not sure if it would have been above the holes. Any ideas what they could be???

Re(1): Small holes in 88 block??

IP: 67.2.242.109 Posted on March 5, 2007 at 06:19:42 AM by Larry Harsin

It possibly could have been holes made for a tag of some kind. I have seen engines with engines with tags in that area. I don't think they would have leaked coolant. I have seen tags in that area, on Waukesha military engines. Larry

Re(2): Small holes in 88 block??

IP: 70.105.70.117 Posted on March 16, 2007 at 10:22:58 PM by doug wenig those holes are for a serial number tag when waukesha sold the engine as a power unit

42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 64.136.26.225 Posted on March 3, 2007 at 02:50:37 PM by Gus

I'm in search of a 1942 Oliver Row Crop Exhaust Pipe and can not find one used or new. Any advice on where to look? Thanks! Gus

Re(1): 42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 67.2.248.177 Posted on March 3, 2007 at 10:35:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Check with Korves Bros. Email: korves@htc.net Phone: 618-939-6681. Larry

Re(2): 42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 12.216.134.244 Posted on March 7, 2007 at 07:55:09 PM by Brian

Have you tried Maibach Tractor? They actually stock most everything for the 60. Probably have quite a bit for the 70 too. Phone: 800-808-9934.

Re(3): 42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 143.115.155.56 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 01:42:11 PM by Larry

Valu-bilt 1-888-828-3276 list a muffler for Oliver 70 1936 and later. Then you can use a section of exhaust pipe from a muffler shop. That is what I did for my '48 70. I the cast muffler and elbows were my major concern.

Re(4): 42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 216.46.212.181 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 12:06:11 PM by Randy

Steiner Tractor Parts in Holly Mi has all the parts for those,manifold,elbow,muffler support,muffler and exhaust pipe. www.steinertractor.com

Re(5): 42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 64.136.26.225 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 12:40:27 PM by Gus

Thanks Randy. I tried them already too. They have the straight stack and stack with bend for 66, 77, 88 both regular and supers, but no 70's.

Re(6): 42 Oliver 70 RC Exhaust Pipe

IP: 216.46.210.43 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 04:22:52 PM by Randy

If you just want the straight stack that comes off the muffler support,I bought mine at the auto parts store. Any exhaust shop should have a piece of straight pipe.

1943 Oliver 70 Piston size

IP: 207.119.68.149 Posted on March 2, 2007 at 05:50:55 PM by Jon B. Williams

Hello, I was wondering what size pistons were in a 1943 70 rc. Valu-bilt has 2 sizes 3 1/8" and 3 1/4". My back piston is blowing oil(I think I have a broken oil ring)Any help is always appeciated.

Re(1): 1943 Oliver 70 Piston size

IP: 67.2.248.94 Posted on March 2, 2007 at 09:11:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The tractor was built originally with 3 1/8" pistons. The larger one is an overbore. You'll have to take your's apart to find out what you have. Larry

1850 Motor

IP: 216.223.173.45 Posted on March 2, 2007 at 01:27:16 PM by Kyle Rensberger

Do you know where I could find a complete or incomplete 1850 gas motor. Also looking for 770 motors gas or diesel. Thanks

Re(1): 1850 Motor

IP: 67.2.248.94 Posted on March 2, 2007 at 09:09:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a complete 1850 motor. I do have a complete 1755 gas engine, which would work. It is in excellent condition. I don't have any 770 motors. Give me a call if you are interested. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Motor

IP: 216.223.173.45 Posted on March 4, 2007 at 11:09:02 AM by Kyle Rensberger

Will that motor would bolt into a super 88 alright. I am looking for motor to put in my 88 to pull farm stock and not really having to do any boreing or stroking. I am looking for about 80 hp or so out of the 88 when I am finished. Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated. What is the max rpm on a 1755 motor? If I put something like that in my S88 Im only allowed around 1925rpm for my classes.

Re(3): 1850 Motor

IP: 67.2.249.6 Posted on March 11, 2007 at 08:28:07 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1755 motor will bolt into a S88 just fine. It is an 80 hp engine. Larry

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