"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - March, 2009 Archives


77-88 manifold

IP: 216.16.28.34 Posted on March 31, 2009 at 09:46:44 AM by Joe

Hey Larry, figured out my carb issue on that 77, the carb is off of either a super 77 or an 88, but now i still have the issue of it hitting the block, was wondering if an 88 manifold would bolt up to my head or not? If not why not?

Re(1): 77-88 manifold

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on March 31, 2009 at 03:11:57 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It will not. It is a different family of engines. You need a manifold from a Super 77 or a 770. Larry


1655 transmission

IP: 98.67.49.83 Posted on March 30, 2009 at 10:52:32 AM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I found the problem with the transmission trying to lock up. It was the hydraulic pump drive pump gear support. Bearing failed, gear got hung up,bent the support. Found one at Agco for $405! My question is what could have caused this? I find it hard to believe that the bearing just failed and caused this.Any thoughts?

Re(1): 1655 transmission

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on March 30, 2009 at 09:22:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I really don't know what would cause that to fail. I would look at a Salvage Yard and see if they had a used support. You could try Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Re(2): 1655 transmission

IP: 98.67.49.83 Posted on March 31, 2009 at 08:57:44 AM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I ordered one from my Agco dealer for $405. But he called backed and said he couldn't get it. So I called your guys at O'Brien and they are sending a good used one for a third that much.


Axle

IP: 97.112.116.212 Posted on March 29, 2009 at 09:06:15 PM by Scott

I have a 1800 industial with the heavy front Axle Im trying to get the pin out of the center to replace it quite worn what is best way to drive it out and do they make a bushing kit Re(1): Axle

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on March 30, 2009 at 09:19:23 PM by Larry Harsin

They can be very tough to work with. Just try to get it driven out. Check at your AGCO or John Deere or Case/IH and see if they have a steel backed bushing. You will probably have to make a bushing for it. Larry


2255 remotes

IP: 69.204.171.194 Posted on March 29, 2009 at 08:42:32 AM by Ed Hotaling

My boss has a 2255 with 2 remote valves, neither of which work. I can get good flow in one direction, but not the other. Question 1: How do I go about fixing this? Question 2: Where do I get any parts I might need?

Re(1): 2255 remotes

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on March 29, 2009 at 05:53:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't service those valves. Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 or Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. This would also be the places to get the parts. Larry


1850 Oliver Tachourmeter

IP: 216.249.70.189 Posted on March 28, 2009 at 01:21:02 PM by Ron Hardesty

I have a 1965 Oliver 1850 Diesel. I recently unhooked the Tach cable fron the Tachometer in order to be able to pull the dash out to get to the steering motor to put in a new seal kit. When I put it back together and hooked up the cable to the tachourmeter it was no longer working. The Tach did nothing. I unhooked the cable inspected both ends. It appeared to be still in one piece. As I walked around the tractor I noticed a round cap laying on the shop floor. It was from the joint gear blox or joint on the engine end Where the Tach Cable conects to the engine. I looked at the gear that I could see and it seemed fine. I pushed the gear back in and repaced the cap. The cap just taped back in. I reconected the cable to the Tach. I then started the tractor. The tach was working some but not correctly. It was jerky or flucuateing up and down and than quit. My question is do I need a new Tach cable or do I have problems where the cable attaches to the front of the engine? How is the best way to diagnois where my problem is? I would appreciate any advice or suggestions or solutions to the problem. The help you all gave me on fixing the steering motor leak and Temp gauge was great.

Re(1): 1850 Oliver Tachourmeter

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on March 29, 2009 at 05:59:28 PM by Larry Harsin

You will just have to inspect the cable again. I would pull that core out of the cable from the upper end. Put some oil on it and put it back in and try it. If that doesn't help, you may have to get a new angle drive on the front of the engine. Or possibly repair it. If you need a new one, you can get one from Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry


1850 Diesel Temp Gauge

IP: 216.249.66.85 Posted on March 23, 2009 at 09:30:33 AM by Ron Hardesty

I have a 1965 Oliver 1850 Diesel. I bought a new Temperature Gauge for it some time last year. I am just now getting it put on. When I took the old one out it had 2 posts on the back for wires and a light bulb in the center. The new gauge that the Agco dealer sent me has 3 post for wires and no place for the light bulb. I have called the dealership they are not sure what to do. They have ordered in some new gauges for the 182 to see what they get. My question is can the new gauge I have be wired to work or do I have the wrong one. If it is wrong where can i get one like the original I took off.

Re(1): 1850 Diesel Temp Gauge

IP: 75.104.189.104 Posted on March 23, 2009 at 10:23:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Some of the replacement gauges don't have light bulbs. I think the 3rd. post is for a ground wire. If you want one like your old one, check with Korves Bros. Oliver and see if they have them. 618-939-6681 Website: www.korvesoliver.com Larry


Carburetor on a 550

IP: 205.188.116.207 Posted on March 27, 2009 at 09:11:24 PM by Tommy

I rebuilt the carburetor because it was leaking gas, It's still leaking coming out of the rubber hose going to the air filter, and appears to also be coming from the stem on the throttle butterfly. I set the float according to the manual. Could you offer some idea's?

Re(1): Carburetor on a 550

IP: 75.104.188.203 Posted on March 27, 2009 at 10:29:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You should take the carb apart and support the bowl in a vice so that it is level, and then pour some gas in the bowl so that it is the level it would be on the tractor. Look for fuel getting into the air horn. Possibly a crack or it could leaking where the main nozzle goes in. There is a gasket on that main nozzle. Larry


Oliver 88 RC Oil Pump Removal

IP: 69.19.14.38 Posted on March 27, 2009 at 04:52:10 PM by Wayne Miller

I'm overhauling a 1951 Oliver 88 RC (Gas). When I got to the point of removing the oil pump I ran into difficulty. The shop manual says to remove one bolt attaching the pump to the block and then lift the oil pump straight out (I have the block upside down on a motor stand). No dice. It doesn't want to budge out of place. The shaft is moving freely and if I stick my finger through the distributor mounting hold I can push the shaft up and down. In other words there seems to be no binding but the oil pump acts like it's welded in place. Ever run into this? Any suggestions appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 88 RC Oil Pump Removal

IP: 75.104.188.203 Posted on March 27, 2009 at 10:26:18 PM by Larry Harsin

If you would take a big channel lock plier and twist the pump back and forth, it will free up and come out of there. You might want to use some penetrating oil. I have had them do this before. Larry


2-150 White

IP: 4.253.112.204 Posted on March 26, 2009 at 02:37:56 PM by Mike Ramey

Larry, I have been looking for a decent 1850 around here reasonably priced and can't find any, But I did come across a white tractor in a barn . I thought it was a 2-105 but talked to a friend of mine that is his neighbor and he said the guy told him it is a 150 hp tractor, 2-150? with a hole in a piston . If it is a 2-150, 585 pistons are next to impossible to find . I been researching parts before I go to talk to him, will a 478 Herc fit ( 2-135, 2-155) that tractor easy if I can't find the moline parts ?

Re(1): 2-150 White

IP: 75.104.188.203 Posted on March 26, 2009 at 08:46:44 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They will not work. You can't swap motors that easy. It would be a major catastrophe. That tractor may need to be majored (overhauled). I'm afraid there will be more to replace than just that piston. You can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, for parts and info. Larry

Re(2): 2-150 White

IP: 4.249.102.148 Posted on March 27, 2009 at 03:28:19 PM by Larry from MD

The big problem is the engine acts as the frame for the front end.


oliver 70/88 diesel

IP: 70.100.5.112 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 11:39:19 PM by elijah

i have a couple of questions i ordered some main bearings for my oliver 70 and mine has one thrust bearing the bearings they sent me are the right ones but have thrust washers and no thrust bearing will they work without thrust bearing? Also i just saw a super 88 diesel with a loader and a cab in fairly good shape for 2000 dollars it seemed to be a good price do u know anything about the cabs on them if it makes it more valuble ive never seen one on a 88 before good buy or not? i know its how much i like the tractor but what do u think. thanks appritiate everything u do god bless

Re(1): oliver 70/88 diesel

IP: 75.104.161.148 Posted on March 23, 2009 at 06:58:02 AM by Larry Harsin

On the 70 main bearings, the ones I have worked with, have a thrust surface on one side of the bearing and the other side was thrust washers. The bearing insert has to have a flange on one side, then the thrust washer works on the other side. I'm not aware of a factory cab on them. What you are seeing is probably and aftermarket cab. I don't think this will increase the value of the tractor. I think if you like the tractor, the price is not out of line. Larry


Combine carburetor

IP: 24.117.154.144 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 12:19:18 PM by Dave

Larry: I know this is an Oliver page but I was wandering if you knew who supplied the carburetor to White on 7300 combines (S/N 63171)? 318 Chrysler Industial engine. I have looked in the parts book and everywhere on the carburetor itself with no avail. Thanks! Dave

Re(1): Combine carburetor

IP: 75.104.189.239 Posted on March 24, 2009 at 11:25:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a new old stock Zenith 2 barrel carb. I believe it is for the 318 Chrysler Industrial engine. Give me a call and we can put our heads together on this. 712-362-2966. Larry


HELP - Need an Oliver/White Mechanic to fix my Oliver 1800 Steering Problems!!!!

IP: 66.170.53.24 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 06:24:35 AM by Jim

While plowing some frozen ground last December I hit a large frozen clod which 'turned' the front wheels all the way to the right. This cracked the hydraulic line which caused a loss of pressure and fluid. I replaced the line with the line-hose replacement from AGCO then opened the power steering cylinder to check the timing and fill it with fluid since it was full of air. The steering worked like a charm while on blocks. Yesterday we dropped the front end to get it out of the shop and were sadly DISAPPOINTED when the steering did not work. We jacked it back up and the steering worked, but when we dropped it back on the ground, nothing! I am out of ideas and we need to get this resolved so we can use it for planting and haying. Do any of you have either suggestions or an Oliver friendly mechanic that can help us? We are located between Fort Wayne, IN and Hicksville, OH and can truck on our flatbed.

Re(1): HELP - Need an Oliver/White Mechanic to fix my Oliver 1800 Steering Problems!!!!

IP: 75.104.161.148 Posted on March 23, 2009 at 06:47:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would get a pressure gauge and get a pressure reading on the flow divider back there. It may just be a sticking regulator spool on the flow divider. You should have at least 1000 lbs of pressure, maybe even 1200 lbs when you turn the steering wheel. Larry

Re(2): HELP - Need an Oliver/White Mechanic to fix my Oliver 1800 Steering Problems!!!!

IP: 66.170.53.24 Posted on March 26, 2009 at 09:42:33 AM by Jim

Well I checked the steering again and found that the steering sector arm is stripped. So I guess I have to remove the grill and radiator again to get to the steering cylinder to fix everything. Do you have instructions for removing the sector arm. I can't decipher what to do from the Service Manuals I have.

Re(3): HELP - Need an Oliver/White Mechanic to fix my Oliver 1800 Steering Problems!!!!

IP: 75.104.188.203 Posted on March 26, 2009 at 08:50:37 PM by Larry Harsin

To remove the pitman - jack up the tractor and block it. Then use a chain hoist to support the wide front. Unbolt the wide front and let it down away from the tractor and then you can replace that pitman arm. Larry


1600 hydrapower

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 05:39:08 AM by Noel Putman

Also, I have had my hydrapower rebuilt and re-examined several times by the fellow who was the area Oliver dealer. But each time I put it back in the tractor it does not work. It seems to be stuck in under drive. Any suggestions? Thanks,

Re(1): 1600 hydrapower

IP: 75.104.183.197 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 06:28:18 AM by Larry Harsin

You are telling me that it will work only on the under side and not in direct drive. This tells me that your direct drive clutch is not activating. A pressure check would be in order to see if the clutch is pressurizing or not or even to see if you are developing pressure to activate the direct drive clutch. Your problem could be caused by the pump not pumping pressure, or the regulator valve is sticking open, or a defective clutch piston, or the oil collector ring where the oil goes to the clutch could be at fault. Larry


1600 drinking gas

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 05:27:45 AM by Noel Putman

Larry, My 1600 drinks a lot of gasoline whether it is working or idling. Is there a adjustment procedure on the carb to help this.

Re(1): 1600 drinking gas

IP: 75.104.183.197 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 06:23:08 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I'd check is: with the engine running full throttle, turn in the load needle screw as far as you can. If it won't starve the engine off, the load needle is misplaced. It is not going into the needle seat, it is off to the side. To correct it, back the needle out and try to get it into the seat. You'll know when you have succeeded as it will starve the engine off. This is the most common thing wrong when we have this particular complaint. I find a lot of them are like that. Larry


old style 88

IP: 216.105.229.15 Posted on March 21, 2009 at 12:23:36 PM by jeremy

I aquired a gas old style 88 standard a while ago and have been tinkering with it a little. My question is can I drop the oil pan out of the bottom of the tractor without taking the motor out? I have removed the large bracket that holds the ball of the wish bone. Do I have to remove the steering shaft that goes all the way up to the steering wheel and steering arm on the gear box to get the pan out? If I tip the pan one direction or another will I get it out the bottom? I think the screen assembly has fallen off of the oil pump. There is screen and what looks like a pipe or something at the oil drain plug hole. Is this just a bolt that came loose off the oil pump or a broken line? Easy fix or not? Would this affect oil pressure? I really appreciate all of your help over the past few years. Jeremy

Re(1): old style 88

IP: 75.104.183.197 Posted on March 21, 2009 at 05:09:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I haven't attempted to drop the oil pan out of an 88 Standard and I'm not sure if you have to remove the motor. I'd try to do it without the removal if possible. Again, I don't know whether you have to remove those shafts either. Try tipping that pan and see what happens. That screen and pipe has a cotter key that holds that onto the oil pump. It may have come out or become bent. It would absolutely affect the oil pressure. Larry

Re(2): old style 88

IP: 216.105.229.15 Posted on March 22, 2009 at 01:53:26 PM by jeremy

Well I got the oil pan off and my suspision was correct but, The screen assembly and tube that connect to the oil pump are totally mangled. The cotter pin that you mentioned was still in place on the oil pump. I'm not sure how the tube would come unhooked. Any way do you have a screen assembly and tube that goes to the oil pump that you could sell? If not do you know who would? I just got the tractor so I don't have a manual. Do you know the part numbers of the parts I'm talking about? This is for a gas old style 88 standard. Thanks for all the help you give. Jeremy

Re(3): old style 88

IP: 75.104.161.148 Posted on March 23, 2009 at 07:00:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I have the screen assembly and tube. Send me an email or give me a call. 712-362-2966 Larry


weight

IP: 67.20.244.114 Posted on March 20, 2009 at 11:29:46 AM by Dale H in PA

How much does a stock unweighted 70 rowcrop weigh? D H

Re(1): weight

IP: 75.104.183.197 Posted on March 21, 2009 at 04:57:23 AM by Larry Harsin

An Oliver 70 Row Crop weighs 3300 lbs, according to the Oliver Tractor Data Book by Bryan Rukes. Larry


77 carb

IP: 69.77.250.217 Posted on March 17, 2009 at 08:22:14 PM by Joe

I have a 77 RC that I am restoring, when I was overhauling it I replaced the block with a good used one, finally I'm getting around to bolting the Zenith carb on and I have interference with the choke linkage hitting the shelf-like casting (has two tapped holes in it) on the block, I looked at the old block and found the block had been modified with a drill bit and chisel to clear the linkage, does the zenith require a different manifold? Or do you have any idea of what's going here?

Re(1): 77 carb

IP: 75.104.183.180 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 06:32:58 AM by Larry Harsin

You have a carb that is actually for a later series engine, which had a different intake manifold. I think if you would take a side grinder and grind a bit of metal off the engine block, you could make it work. Larry

Re(2): 77 carb

IP: 216.16.28.34 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 03:10:34 PM by Joe

But if you look at AGCO parts books they list a Zenith carb for a 77, i don't have a carb number but the casting number from the bowl matched the one shown on the parts diagram, does anyone have have a manifold pair(exhaust and intake) that will allow this carb to fit without grinding the block since my manifold looks cracked anyway?

Re(3): 77 carb

IP: 72.46.184.164 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 08:43:06 PM by lYLE

JOE YOU CAN USE A INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD OFF A SUPER 77 THE CARB HAS MORE CLEARANCE FROM THE BLOCK

Re(4): 77 carb

IP: 69.77.250.217 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 09:23:37 PM by Joe

What casting number am I looking for then? Mine is a M425. Does that mean this carb is actually a Super then? It's a Zenith but the dime shaped ID tag has nothing on it. The only marking besides Made in USA and Zenith is a 200 casted in to the upper half? Thanks for the info guys!

Re(5): 77 carb

IP: 75.104.169.208 Posted on March 19, 2009 at 06:01:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say it is for a Super. I don't know what the 200 means. Larry


Oliver 1655 diesel bogs down when warmed up

IP: 173.88.25.208 Posted on March 17, 2009 at 06:54:03 PM by Paul

Our Oliver 1655 diesel bogs down (the engine slows down) once the engine temperature warms up (to the low end of "work"). This happens while just running a bush hog (not a big load). We've replaced the fuel filters, blown out the fuel lines and replaced the fuel. The problem still continues. Any ideas what me might look at next. We wondered if it might be related to some non off-road diesel fuel we used since they changed the fuel. The only other thing we've noticed is some regular blow by coming out of the pipe. Changing the fuel didn't help.

Re(1): Oliver 1655 diesel bogs down when warmed up

IP: 75.104.183.180 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 06:29:58 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you might have an engine that is getting tired. This means an overhaul, especially if you are getting a lot of blow by out of the crankcase breather. There also could be a problem developing inside the injection pump, so that it doesn't pump enough fuel when it gets warmed up. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1655 diesel bogs down when warmed up

IP: 98.65.202.23 Posted on March 20, 2009 at 07:09:32 PM by George Steadman

Maybe some weak fuel, a lot of the dsl being distributed these days is terrible low on cetane, have a local supplier send off a fuel sample and get the cetane rating. May just need a boost, as for the blowby, if you run the tractor for several hours per year try a can of Restore I know all the rumors but we have had some success with this formula.


1655 transmission

IP: 98.67.55.65 Posted on March 17, 2009 at 09:59:33 AM by Cleon Couey

Think the transmission on the 1655 locked up today. Other day it started leaking oil around the gear shift boot and someone said it might have too much oil so let about a quart out the check plug but did not let it all out. Tractor was running in neutral started making a grinding noise and the motor would have stalled out if I hadn't shut it down.Now the engine won't turn over like something's got it hung. Gear shift and over and under shift are not locked up. What's the bad news?

Re(1): 1655 transmission

IP: 75.104.183.180 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 06:26:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what. Something has gone wrong. You are going to have to determine where the problem is. I'd jack up one rear wheel and see if you can turn the rear wheel with your hands. Will the engine run with the clutch pedal depressed? Some way you are going to have to figure out where the lock up is. Check all of the oil departments and see if something ran out of oil. Has it set out so that water could have gotten into the rear end and as oil floats on top of water, this might have been the cause of your leak. Perhaps you should have an experienced mechanic look at it to help determine the problem. Larry

Re(2): 1655 transmission

IP: 98.67.55.65 Posted on March 18, 2009 at 11:58:51 AM by Cleon Couey

Moved the shifter through all the gears today. Put it back in neutral. Started cranking the motor. Motor will crank now but is kinda slow like a weak battery or something is still holding it back. Batteries are new, alternator is good. Until this happened motor would spin like a top.Tractor will roll and am going to pull it back to the barn to do some more analysis.

Re(3): 1655 transmission

IP: 98.65.202.23 Posted on March 20, 2009 at 07:06:10 PM by George Steadman

This maybe a little looney but have you checked the chain. My neighbor called and said his 1550 wouldn't move and was running rough. The chain had come lose and was binding the whole driveline. It is worth a check.


High to low gear change 1855

IP: 162.127.13.5 Posted on March 13, 2009 at 08:23:10 AM by Gordon

I have an 1855 and don't know how to get it out of the low gear range and into the high range. Is there a lever somewhere I'm not seeing?

Re(1): High to low gear change 1855

IP: 75.104.189.110 Posted on March 15, 2009 at 06:59:56 AM by Larry Harsin

The gear shift lever for the transmission takes care of the ranges. there is a diagram on the dash that shows the 2 ranges and the 6 forward gear. When the lever is in neutral. You can move it up to high range or down to low range. You really need to get an Operator's Manual. You can purchase one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099 Larry


old style 88 standard

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on March 11, 2009 at 07:45:14 AM by jeremy

I have an old style 88 standard that was found in North Dakota. It hadn't ran in 10 years and sat outside. Well we got it running and to our surprise it ran pretty well. I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions down the road. What is the correct head light and tail light size for this tractor and does it have a red bullet tail light? It has one front light missing and it measures 5 1/2 inches. My other question is which is the correct ignition switch: one with a resistor or one with out? Thanks for your help. Jeremy

Re(1): old style 88 standard

IP: 75.104.189.110 Posted on March 11, 2009 at 09:05:08 PM by Larry Harsin

It had the same head lights as the row crops and they were the 5 1/2", I believe. Korves would have these light and can tell you which size is correct. They will also have the ignition, I think. It is the one with a resistor. Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry


1655 gear shift

IP: 98.67.51.18 Posted on March 8, 2009 at 07:52:04 PM by Cleon Couey

Transmission oil is leaking from under the gear shift boot. It's not coming from the base but the upper part directly under the boot. Is this a gasket problem or too much pump pressure? I removed the gear shift about a month ago at the base and resealed it with permatex. I did not disassemble the part that is leaking. Any thoughts?

Re(1): 1655 gear shift

IP: 75.104.188.78 Posted on March 8, 2009 at 09:36:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure that the oil level isn't too high in the transmission and I'd probably put on a new gear shift boot. You can get one from Korves Oliver: 618-939-6681. Larry


clutch housing

IP: 97.112.107.137 Posted on March 7, 2009 at 06:09:51 PM by scott

is there any difference in the clutch housings Im attaching it to a perkins diesel are they all the same.

Re(1): clutch housing

IP: 75.104.168.34 Posted on March 7, 2009 at 10:15:18 PM by Larry Harsin

The Perkins takes a different clutch housing than the other Olivers. Larry


550

IP: 204.116.207.190 Posted on March 5, 2009 at 09:13:16 PM by J. Mash

Larry, my 64 550 gas is making a screeching sound inside the distributor. it only does this when I first start it and goes away after the engine is warm. Sometimes a slight change of the throttle will make it go away. I can put my hand on the distributor and feel a slight vibration. Removing the oil plug and oiling it does not help. Its been doing this for a year or so. Are the bearings inside hard to change? I have electronic ignition in this tractor.Or could it be the gear?

Re(1): 550

IP: 75.104.168.34 Posted on March 6, 2009 at 06:16:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should take the distributor apart, going in through the top, take the breaker plate out and look in there. If there is a problem, you will be able to see it. The bearings aren't hard to change, but I doubt very much if it is a bearing. The gear isn't inside the distributor. It wouldn't be a gear. Larry


steering

IP: 198.68.16.40 Posted on March 4, 2009 at 02:06:57 PM by bill

need help with a1550 steering diagram 'parts @hoses go where?

Re(1): steering

IP: 75.104.168.34 Posted on March 4, 2009 at 06:07:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Get a Parts Manual for your tractor from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. It will help you a lot. Larry


1850 wheatland 3 point

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on March 4, 2009 at 03:21:48 AM by Noel Putman

Larry, Can you put a 3 point on an 1850 wheatland by putting the top cover off of an 1800 or 1850 onto it? Are there other changes you have to make.

Re(1): 1850 wheatland 3 point

IP: 75.104.168.34 Posted on March 4, 2009 at 06:23:13 AM by Larry Harsin

It can be done, but you have to put a completely different hydraulic unit on it. You have to install a lower rock shaft assembly and you have to use an ag drawbar assembly. Larry

Re(2): 1850 wheatland 3 point

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on March 4, 2009 at 12:51:03 PM by Noel Putman

So, hydraulic top cover and ag drawbar assy I understand. What is the lower rock shaft assy? Are those the lift arms? Also, is it the same hyd pan? Same pump? Thanks,

Re(3): 1850 wheatland 3 point

IP: 75.104.168.34 Posted on March 4, 2009 at 06:05:33 PM by Larry Harsin

The lower rock shaft assy. is what the lift arms fasten on to. I don't think it is the same hydraulic pan. The pump might be the same. It is a totally different unit and will be a lot of work. Larry


Electronic Ignition for 550

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on March 1, 2009 at 07:41:05 PM by Larry K

To install an electronic ignition on a 550 will I have any problems with the "idiot lite" in the dash after I reverse the coil and set the generator up for negative ground?

Re(1): Electronic Ignition for 550 IP: 75.104.189.105 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 03:58:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you will be o.k. Larry


HP for baler

IP: 75.121.164.23 Posted on March 1, 2009 at 07:24:19 PM by Virgil Leach

Hi Larry, I have a 1959 550 gas Oliver. Does this tractor have enough horse power to run a regular new holland square baler? I was told you needed 60hp or better? VP

Re(1): HP for baler

IP: 4.248.216.86 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 07:06:35 AM by larry from md.

It has plenty of power to run it. You could have problems with wieght if you have steep hills or are pulling a wagon behind. With weighted tires you should be fine. One time i pulled a not running s77 hitched to a baler back to the shop, that had lots of slippage but got er done.

Re(2): HP for baler

IP: 204.116.207.190 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 11:45:31 AM by J. Mash

Plenty of power. Balers that are over 100 strokes a minute are a little harder to pull. In level land you will be fine. Steep land you need fluid and weights. Keep your rear wheels off the hay on steep land. Even bigger 4 wheel drive tractors will slide on hay! These are the best small tractors ever made!


Post Hole Auger for 3pt?

IP: 24.166.57.151 Posted on March 1, 2009 at 08:50:42 AM by Riley

I just purchased an Oliver 1650. The guy I bought it from said he used it to put in some post holes. I went to the local Tractor Supply Store and purchased a post hole digger auger. The thing that has me confused now is the tractor has a swinging type top link with an arm on it, rather than a fixed point to put the end of the post hole driller auger into. So I am not sure if I need a different style unit on the tractor or if I need to buy a different post hole driller auger or if I need to make a special hook up for the equipment?

Re(1): Post Hole Auger for 3pt?

IP: 4.248.219.175 Posted on March 1, 2009 at 12:50:00 PM by larry from md.

Thats a hard fit the way the 1650 is made. Some guys alter their diggers to use them. Some guys claim they can move the digger to one side and attach the upper arm to one side where the top link u frame goes. To do this you shift the sway blocks on the lift arms and turn one of the pins inward. Me i just use my super 55.

Re(2): Post Hole Auger for 3pt?

IP: 75.104.189.105 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 03:55:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Talk to the person who sold you the auger and get his advice on attaching it to your 3 pt. If he can't help you, take it to a machine shop or a welding shop and have them make an adapter. Larry

Re(3): Post Hole Auger for 3pt?

IP: 24.166.57.151 Posted on March 3, 2009 at 06:18:59 PM by Riley

I can't reach the person I bought it from to find out what he did. I am looking at a hydro drill to hang from the bucket. Much more expensive but it looks like it's the best thing to do. We really don't have any custom shops around my area that I know of. Again thank you so much for your help and for your site this is awsome. I hope you are rewarded......... I also ordered the hitch balls today, and should have them Friday. The are 1 1/8' ID and 1 3/4" wide and 2" in diamiter if anyone else needs this information. . Riley


Oliver 1650 3pt Quick Hitch?

IP: 24.166.57.151 Posted on March 1, 2009 at 08:44:36 AM by Riley

I just purchased an Oliver 1650 and I am looking at the 3pt and can't quite figure out what type of bushings or pins to put on the box blade to use it the hitch system. Do I need some type of Oliver mounting system for the blade?

Re(1): Oliver 1650 3pt Quick Hitch?

IP: 75.104.189.105 Posted on March 2, 2009 at 03:51:15 PM by Larry Harsin

You need 2 category 2 hitch balls. You can get them from your AGCO Dealer or from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you should get one from Charles City. It would be very helpful to you. Floyd Co. Museum 641-228-1099. Larry


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