"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" May, 2000 Archives

Model 70 Carb.

Posted by Wayne on May 30, 2000 at 16:55:55: IP Address: 205.188.199.164

I want to install a kit in a 1948 Model 70 carb. Its a Zinith #BS393J got a 10002 on the inner part of the tag. My local NAPA dealer needs more info. Can I get carb parts from a NAPA dealer? I am getting a parts, service and operators manual from Jensales.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 30, 2000 at 23:46:52: IP Address: 209.163.7.29

In Reply to: Model 70 Carb. posted by Wayne on May 30, 2000 at 16:55:55:

Wayne. I don't know what info the NAPA dealer wants to know. Your manuals should help when you get them. If you want to send the carburator to me I probably can repair it. If you decide to send it, email us first. Larry

770 flex couplin update

Posted by chief613 on May 29, 2000 at 06:19:23: IP Address: 209.222.74.128

Hi Larry

i posted a while back about the couplin between the reverse o torx and the input shaft. Well i found out that i couldnt get the 6 bolts out that split the tractor, impossible to get any leverage on them, i did manage to get 2 out with a hydraulic jack on a wrench, but 2 dont quite cut it. At the time i couldnt see how to get it out through the transmision, so i pulled the engine, with out much problems so far. I did see that when the couplin broke it stove up the bearin on the input shaft so i popped that bearin out. So now to the questions.

1 Should i replace both bearins on the shaft, the other one seems fine, just little scared of the price may be on these bearins.

2 Oil runs out of the engine at a pretty good stream when i go up an incline, and when i lifted the motor the back tiped down and the oil poured out. Im thinkin its the oil pan gasket, would the oil pour out the rear main that fast with the motor not runnin?

3 While i got the motor out is there any thing that should be done or checked seeins it already hanging out of the machine?

thanks for any help

steve in maine

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 29, 2000 at 16:37:10: IP Address: 209.163.7.65

In Reply to: 770 flex couplin update posted by chief613 on May 29, 2000 at 06:19:23:

Steve, 1. You don't need to replace the bearing if it looks ok. 2: You need to replace the Rear main seal. It is spring loaded cork and will cost about $60. The one you have on it probably doesn't have any cork left. Make sure the cover plate that covers the seal is good - not warped. 3: From what you have told me I can't say as there's necessarily anything else to check. Larry

Oliver 88RC problems

Posted by LB on May 28, 2000 at 20:44:42: IP Address: 209.94.160.254

Hello, I bought an 88 rc with a NI 2row picker at an auction for $875. It runs great, starts easy, good oil pressure, no smoke, and didn't overheat driving it 30 miles home. Here are my problems. The picker is in the air and the hoses are connected to the pump. There is one lever for the pump that reaches almost to the steering wheel. there is one hose from the back of the left side of the pump over to the front of the rightside. A hose from the back of the right goes to the rams on the picker. Moving the control rod any imaginable way does little to lower the picker. there is a jerking in the hose that crosses from the left to the right side though. Secondly, the pto will not stop running. I've moved the lever all the way forward and back and even connected the chains while it was off and it still wouldn't stop running. I plan on keeping this as my picker tractor cause it starts and runs so well. Thanks for any help you can provide. Lloyd

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 28, 2000 at 22:57:38: IP Address: 209.163.7.4

In Reply to: Oliver 88RC problems posted by LB on May 28, 2000 at 20:44:42:

LB. I think it's low on hydraulic oil. Add 2 or 3 qts. of 10 wt. hydraulic oil. Run the engine at 1200 to 1500 rpm and then see if the picker will lower. If this makes it work, you may want to check the transmission oil level. There is a good chance that the hydraulic oil has leaked into the transmission. If this is the case, the hydraulic unit will have to be resealed and probably new bearings. Also if this has to be done, the PTO can be serviced at this time as the PTO will have to be removed to get the hydraulic out. PTO will probably need oil seals, maybe 2 friction discs and also a new center plate if the center plate is warped. Larry

Posted by LB on May 29, 2000 at 09:16:06: IP Address: 209.94.160.254

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 88RC problems posted by Larry Harsin on May 28, 2000 at 22:57:38:

Thanks Larry, I'll check that stuff out. LB

77 PTO

Posted by Tom from Alberta on May 27, 2000 at 20:05:05: IP Address: 207.34.100.176

Larry:

Great Site!!

I am presently semi-restoring a late '52 or early '53 Oliver 77 that my Dad bought in 1953. I have to remove the PTO clutch assembly in order to remove the belt pulley. I have done all the steps as per my IT manual, however, the PTO assembly will not come out. The drive shaft from the engine is not stuck as there is end play. I have used a 2' pry bar to try and free it from the PTO casting. Should this be in that tight? The ball bearing in the casting seems to be the problem. Short of beating it with a hammer and risk breaking the casting, do you have any suggestions?

Many thanks,

Tom

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 28, 2000 at 06:13:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.34

In Reply to: 77 PTO posted by Tom from Alberta on May 27, 2000 at 20:05:05:

Tom. The first thing to try is to have someone hold the clutch pedal in the depressed position while you try to remove the PTO assembly. If that doesn't help you are going to have to get 2 big pry bars, putting one on each side, and pull it out of there! If you have followed the directions in your shop manual, you have the correct bolts removed.... the PTO assembly has to come out. Get a helper and use 2 good sized wrecking bars. If that does not work, you may have to put a chain around the clutch assembly and pull it out with another tractor. Good Luck!!!!! Larry

Posted by Tom from Alberta on May 30, 2000 at 22:19:13: IP Address: 207.229.35.211

In Reply to: Re: 77 PTO posted by Larry Harsin on May 28, 2000 at 06:13:56:

Larry:

As per your suggestion, I used a 5 ft. pry bar on the PTO clutch with a little muscle and it popped out with no trouble. Thanks a bunch. Tom

Power steering wanted for OL1600Dnf

Posted by Hall Ashmore on May 23, 2000 at 11:36:10: IP Address: 205.188.193.177

Can you help me with some options for adding power steering to my manual steering OL 1600Dnf? Is there an aftermarket kit I can purchase somewhere, or can I use the assembly from a neighbor's White 2-70? Are there other options to consider? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 24, 2000 at 04:31:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.17

In Reply to: Power steering wanted for OL1600Dnf posted by Hall Ashmore on May 23, 2000 at 11:36:10:

Hall. If I had access to a 2-70, that's the way I'd go. I think that would work fine. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on May 23, 2000 at 17:50:59: IP Address: 207.226.216.218

In Reply to: Power steering wanted for OL1600Dnf posted by Hall Ashmore on May 23, 2000 at 11:36:10:

If you get parts from a 270 be sure to get the flow divider that goes with that steering unit. I have experince in this. Most things will fit,if the 1600 has the old front axel it would be better to get that too. THe old axel looks like a s88 front with nothing but the stablizer arms to hold it on. Mine came off 4 times in the field. Another option is a charlin add on unit. You add it into the steering wheel shaft. I don't recomend this it is slow, it takes 8 turns to go from left to right. A 270 takes 2 1/2 turns and you can turn the wheel much faster. I have owned 1600s with both types of steering.

Super 66 trans/final

Posted by Dave Brandon on May 22, 2000 at 19:27:18: IP Address: 199.2.139.183

Larry: this may not be the right place for this information BUT--I have a couple of 66/super66 transmission/final drives for parts. Industrial axles-disc brakes-no pto. If you hear of someone that is in need let me know.Located in Montana(I bought a 2/44 with loader from you a couple of years ago) maybe someone is traveling to Glacier or Yellowstone parks this summer for a hauling link? dave - keen site!!

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 23, 2000 at 05:05:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.10

In Reply to: Super 66 trans/final posted by Dave Brandon on May 22, 2000 at 19:26:59:

Hi Dave! Thanks for the compliment. Good to hear from you. I've made a note of what you have and will let you know if someone needs your parts. Larry

1655

Posted by Bill Fleck on May 22, 2000 at 18:15:14: IP Address: 152.163.207.54

Tractor is hard starting after it is warmed up. After tapping injection pump with pliers it will start. Killed engine in gear thinking it might be the pump shut off,still would not start.Sliding the pump shut off in and out fast and tapping the pump it will start. Can you give us any helpful tips? Thank You Bill Fleck

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 23, 2000 at 05:08:11: IP Address: 209.163.7.10

In Reply to: 1655 posted by Bill Fleck on May 22, 2000 at 18:15:14:

Hi Bill, Larry Wolfe's advice sounds right to me. Good luck. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on May 22, 2000 at 19:22:54: IP Address: 207.226.216.150

In Reply to: 1655 posted by Bill Fleck on May 22, 2000 at 18:15:14:

It could be a number of things,but if tapping the pump helps I would check the restrictor at the top of pump. its in the fitting between pump and return line. IT has a relif spring and ball plus a small hole to slow the exit of fuel. If pluged it will hold in air,if stuck open it releases to much fuel and pump has trouble gaining presure.

Oliver front wheel assist

Posted by Kurt Petry on May 20, 2000 at 06:12:39: IP Address: 208.245.165.148

Larry- Great site! I'm interested in the Oliver front wheel assisted tractors of the 60's and 70's, approx 1650s to 2150s. Are there any special problems to watch out for with the fwa units? Are parts still available, or do you need to hunt the scrap yards? I'm interested in finding one for low hour use on about 100 acres/ year. Where can I find one of these beasts?

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 20, 2000 at 12:04:32: IP Address: 209.163.7.58

In Reply to: Oliver front wheel assist posted by Kurt Petry on May 20, 2000 at 06:12:39:

Kurt. The front wheel assist tractors are good excellent quality equipment. They're high priced to repair. The front axle assembly was built by Clark Equipment Co. a division of Eaton Corp. The main problem was keeping the drop box tight where it mounted on the rear main frame. But that really wasn't a problem. Occasionally I see one listed for sale. I'll make a note of it and see if I can find you one. Larry

Oliver Row Crop 77 Shift Pattern?

Posted by LINERPHAN on May 19, 2000 at 13:22:00: IP Address: 216.217.47.130

I bought an Oliver 77 at an auction a month ago and it runs great. My only problem is that I can only find 4 speeds. The diagram shows eight, but I was wondering if there might be a high-low range that I haven't found or if the gears aren't matching up correctly in the transmission. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Posted by chief613 on May 23, 2000 at 18:59:17: IP Address: 209.222.76.29

In Reply to: Oliver Row Crop 77 Shift Pattern? posted by LINERPHAN on May 19, 2000 at 13:22:00:

this may not apply to ur model, but i have a 770in. I removed the shift lever to inspect the transmision, not payin much attention to the position of the stick at the time. When i went to put it back together i only had 3 gears instead of 6, so i took it apart and tried again, to find i had the other 3 this time. After several more attempts , and a little thought of what ger was wwhere i got all 6 speeds back. I took it that there is more than one slot that the stick will go into, but only one correct one.......maybe Larry can explain this better if i am correct?

Posted by larry wolfe on May 20, 2000 at 17:24:35: IP Address: 207.226.216.49

In Reply to: Oliver Row Crop 77 Shift Pattern? posted by LINERPHAN on May 19, 2000 at 13:22:00:

Maney fist time oliver users have trouble with the shift pattern. But a broken shift fork is a real possiblity. When this happens you lose 4 gears. Depending on which one breaks it can be 2reverse+2forwad or 4 forward. If you shift to a place where there should be a gear and nothing happens,expect a broken fork.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 18:34:25: IP Address: 209.163.7.29

In Reply to: Oliver Row Crop 77 Shift Pattern? posted by LINERPHAN on May 19, 2000 at 13:22:00:

Linerphan. The transmission does have a high-low range. It has 3 forward speeds and 1 reverse in each range. With the lever in forward position or top range, you have 3rd 4th and 6th and High reverse. With the lever back towards you you have 1st 2nd and 5th and low reverse. This is assuming this is a Row Crop or Standard 77. Larry

1600 PTO Clutch, Part 2

Posted by Bob Semrau on May 19, 2000 at 11:00:08: IP Address: 208.223.205.165

Larry :

I left a message a few days ago about my PTO not stopping.

I bought about $150 in parts : two clutch discs, the plate in-between the discs, new springs and shim packs, and two oil shields.

Last night I put everything in except for the shields. The old discs didn't look very good. In order to have the clutch free-wheel when off, I had to add 15 of my old shims along with the new shim packs at each spot (45 extra shims total!). However, I don't think that this is right because the lever seems to take very little pressure to engage. Even this didn't fix things. The only improvement was that if the PTO had never been turned on, it wouldn't spin through the whole RPM range of the tractor. If I turned it on though, it wouldn't turn off until I went back to idle.

One thing that I had noticed is that there is a lot of oil in on the metal around the clutch. I tried to keep the plates clean, but am now wondering if I need to de-grease the whole area. I ran the tractor for a while with the PTO clutch off, and didn't notice any oil leaking into this area (which is why I haven't put in the seals yet - they seem like a lot more work to install).

Another thing I am not sure about is if I have the new clutch discs facing the right way. The picture in the I & T manual I bought isn't very clear, and I forgot how the original ones were, so I installed them with the flat sides facing the center plate. This seemed to make the thinnest stack of plates.

This is the first Oliver I have had any experience with, and I am wondering what I am missing here.

Thanks Again !

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 18:49:36: IP Address: 209.163.7.29

In Reply to: 1600 PTO Clutch, Part 2 posted by Bob Semrau on May 19, 2000 at 11:00:08:

Bob. If there's any evidence of oil in the clutches I'd replace the seal on that main drive shaft where the clutches sit. There are 4 bolts that hold that front clutch assembly to the hub. They have locking tabs on them. If those bolts are loose it will cause this problem. You'll have to remove these to replace the seal. Then tighten them down and fasten the lock tabs to hold them from coming loose. Something isn't right with all those shims having to be used. Your I & T Manual should explain all of that. Also where the throw out bearing is connected to that rear plate with all the linkages and rollers, be sure that all the pins are in place and that the rollers are not broken. Another thing, where the roller makes contact with the rear cover, if there is a groove worn where that roller runs there you will need to set that rear cover assembly in a press and press it down to loosen the big snap ring on the back side. Remove the snap ring then release press and rotate that inner plate so the rollers will run on a new spot. Larry

Posted by Richard Skinner on May 20, 2000 at 08:21:25: IP Address: 63.166.22.92

In Reply to: Re: 1600 PTO Clutch, Part 2 posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 18:49:36:

This worries me now, when I removed my PTO Clutch cover, about a gallon or two of gear oil drained out. The whole time, I was thinking these were wet clutches. I guess they were wet but that is not the desired condition.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 20, 2000 at 12:09:42: IP Address: 209.163.7.58

In Reply to: Re: 1600 PTO Clutch, Part 2 posted by Richard Skinner on May 20, 2000 at 08:21:25:

Richard. Your 1650 is supposed to be a wet clutch. The oil is supposed to be that way when you take the lid off. Bob's is supposed to be a dry clutch. The two are totally different. Larry

Posted by Bob Semrau on May 19, 2000 at 19:57:18: IP Address: 216.40.132.215

In Reply to: Re: 1600 PTO Clutch, Part 2 posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 18:49:36:

Larry :

Thanks alot ! I'll try this tomorrow.

Bob

1550 hyd.

Posted by Dan F. on May 18, 2000 at 23:44:18: IP Address: 208.30.88.9

Larry,My 1550 gas does not operate the lift arms or an external cylinder unless you are at 1500-1700rpm,s or above. Also seems to work hard to raise an eight foot disc.Thanks for your time and advise! Dan

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 05:51:48: IP Address: 209.163.7.37

In Reply to: 1550 hyd. posted by Dan F. on May 18, 2000 at 23:44:18:

Dan. Sounds like your hydaulic is weak. Check the pressure. Add 3 or 4 shims to the relief valve to get it up to 1800 lbs. If this doesn't work you are going to have to tear it down and probably replace the hydraulic pump. Larry

More 283 D updates

Posted by Richard Skinner on May 17, 2000 at 21:44:48: IP Address: 63.166.22.97

Well, its been a long tough day. Engine was ready to come out so I thought. As I said, I planned on pulling the engine, bell housing, and hydropower at one time. Well heck, I'm not a tractor mechanic and guess what I forgot about, PTO drive shaft! She is definetly bent now, but, the splines on the clutch end are almost gone anyways, so I guess its no big lose. I should have split the tractor! How does one get the pto shaft out? Flywheel splines have considerable wear also. Lower end, humm, has 0.020 mains and 0.010 rods with bearings dated 1971 by clevite. Soooo, I guess the 8200 hours is not since overhaul. Crank looks perfect! Pistons look great, liners, about .004 wear. I'm almost thinking about honing, re-oringing, and installing new rings. Injectors are junk, they dribble, their pop pressure is around 1400 instead of the 1750 to 1925, and they are having new internals installed for $25.00 each. Liners only have about .002 to .004 protrusion. Injector company said there was no sense in bench testing the pump if it ran okay, but they did say they could tear it down and rebuild it. Bench testing would only tell you if it works, but not how much wear is in there or how long she will last. They want 5 big ones $500 to tear down and rebuild. Is it worth it?

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 18, 2000 at 05:10:20: IP Address: 209.163.7.12

In Reply to: More 283 D updates posted by Richard Skinner on May 17, 2000 at 21:44:48:

Richard. I don't split the tractor to do what you are doing. To remove the pto shaft, take the 4 bolts that hold the pto clutch cover out and remove cover. There's a snap ring that holds the bearing in the pto hub. This snap ring is approx. one and three fourths in. in diameter. After getting the ring out of the groove, engage pto clutch so that the discs will stay lined up. Then using 2 small pry bars, pry on the outer hub to pull the hub assembly and shaft back towards you. As far as the engine is concerned, it sounds as if you got lucky. I wouldn't have the pump redone. If you can get the pto shaft straightened you can get it resplined. Otherwise, I can give you some places to get a replacement. About the sleeves, I wouldn't replace those sleeves. I think I'd check with my AGCO dealer about an improved head gasket for this engine. Larry

Posted by Richard Skinner on May 20, 2000 at 08:41:43: IP Address: 63.166.22.92

In Reply to: Re: More 283 D updates posted by Larry Harsin on May 18, 2000 at 05:10:20:

Larry, I'm interested in any sources you may have for a new/used PTO Driveshaft and Flywheel hub. No doubt mine can be straightened although there is not a good machine shop locally that can respline it.

I spoke too soon about the pistons and liners, because I remove the remaining pistons Friday night and found 1 gaulded. Every one of the top compression rings were busted (prob ether caused it). I ordered new liner kits but they are Arrow OEM kits and they won't be in until mid June.

Stripped the block for vating, found the liner lower counter bores rusted up and pitted somewhat. I may be able to hone these out a little to get rid of any sharp edges to prevent cutting the new orings. As far as I can tell, the majority of the o-ring contact area should be okay. I can tell better after I vat the block and brush out the bores. We can have the larger Waukesha engine machined for inserts for about $50.00 per hole but I don't know if they offer inserts for the VRD series. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.

Head was cracked everywhere, but it passed the heated pressure test without leakage. It was resurfaced with a simple grind job.

Is it normal for the input shaft of the hydrapower to have some movement (side to side). I know there is a bearing but I also figured the pilot brg on the flywheel helps align it.

This is a 65 model, and according to all of the dates on the parts they indicate 71, so this engine must have had a premature failure in the lower end (ran low on oil maybe).

The new Waukesha/Arrow head set looks much better than the Victor set that came off. This one actually has copper rings around all of the coolant ports. The Victor did not and they were busted out

Posted by larry wolfe on May 18, 2000 at 10:31:40: IP Address: 207.226.216.33

In Reply to: Re: More 283 D updates posted by Larry Harsin on May 18, 2000 at 05:10:20:

I have had compression leaks in engines with low liner protrusion like this. The recomendid height went up as time went on. The last head gasket I had said .005 to .007 in the instruction sheet.

2255 Steering

Posted by Mike on May 17, 2000 at 17:02:38: IP Address: 206.150.146.16

I have a 1973 Oliver 2255 with the 3150 Cat. Last spring when I was field cultivating I dumped the the front wheel in a tile hole. I had to replace the sector arm. When looking at the rest of the widefront I replaced the worn out ball joints, the bushing that supports the pitman shaft, and the thrust washer. The widefront was still loose. Both front wheels wobble together left to right with no movement of the steering wheel. About 3 weeks ago when I turned to put the tractor in the shed I broke the stablizer arm shaft that keeps the steering cylinder from rotating around. I was thinking that this could of been broken since last spring. I put a new stablizer arm on, and the front end still wobbles. Could it be the splines on the pitman shaft that are worn? Or could it be something else inside the steering cylinder?

I had the leaky fuel tank repaired this winter. It has just begun to leak again around the lower front seam. In the last couple days when I start the tractor up after sitting over night it won't stay running unless I get the the RPM's above 1400, but then it will surge for a couple minutes, then it's O.K. for the rest of the day.

Now I'm thinking it's a leaky fuel line. But I'm not sure if It's a line or the fuel tank or something else leaking that's fuel related.

When I bought the Oliver 2255 tractor a year ago I replaced all of the fluids and filters, except for the hydraulic filter. I cannot get that nut on the bottom to budge. I have yanked on it fairly hard with a socket and breaker bar. I'm afraid that I might break the top of the filter housing if I was to yank harder on it. I hoping you might have a idea on this because I'm out of Ideas.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 18, 2000 at 04:53:16: IP Address: 209.163.7.18

In Reply to: 2255 Steering posted by Mike on May 17, 2000 at 17:02:38:

Mike. Welcome to the club!!!! :-) The steering problem: Make sure the pitman arm is tight on the pitman shaff. If it's still loose you may have to take the lid off the power steering unit and that big inch and an eighth bolt tightens the sector to the pitman shaft. About the engine surging: It sounds like you have an air leak on the primary side of your fuel system. Also check the outlet on the fuel tank to be sure its not restricted with foreign material in the outlet of the tank. On the filter problem, you will have to use quite a bit of force as you are going to have to get it apart somehow. Someone has probably put it on too tight. Don't yank on it, just a steady pull. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on May 18, 2000 at 10:23:00: IP Address: 207.226.216.33

In Reply to: Re: 2255 Steering posted by Larry Harsin on May 18, 2000 at 04:53:16:

If you have a helper use an extension to get below step and use a T handle with a pipe on each side one man pull on each side.

Update on 283D (leaking head)

Posted by Richard Skinner on May 16, 2000 at 20:43:52: IP Address: 63.166.22.41

Larry, Ended up having to pull the head. Remember the JB Weld, gasket leaking diesel, and the whine? #1 and #6 had blown sealing rings on the head gasket. It started pressuring up the radiator this last weekend but the coolant was cold, so I ripped her apart. Injectors are going out for testing, head is going to machine shop. Pistons fit tight, no scoring in the cylinders, but there isn't a hone pattern left anywhere.(I haven't mic'd the bores yet). Engine ran good, but had a slight sputter at an idle and sometimes a little tough to start. I'm debating to do a Piston/liner and lower end. She has 8200 hours, not the 8800 I originally thought. Hardly any soot or carbon build up, injectors are fairly clean, and energy cells are clean. The whole combustion chamber has a very light black soot that wipes off easily. Either every cylinder on the head has been welded up between the valves or its a crappy casting to begin with (small pits). No visible cracks. Nice seating pattern on the valves and seats. I'm pulling the engine tomorrow to re-seal the rear main, front & rear seal on hydrapower so I will inspect the lower end when it gets i the shop out of the dirt and determine what I will do. Any suggestions while I'm torn down, special/common things to check for in this particular engine?

Posted by larry wolfe on May 17, 2000 at 10:15:05: IP Address: 207.226.216.170

In Reply to: Update on 283D (leaking head) posted by Richard Skinner on May 16, 2000 at 20:43:52:

I would check protrusion of cylinder liners. Local oliver dealer use to recomend .009 to .o12 the old recomedation was .001 to .oo4 from service manuel. I have had low ones leak. measure outer land of liner(where seal ring sits). Shims are expensive.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 17, 2000 at 05:18:02: IP Address: 209.163.7.8

In Reply to: Update on 283D (leaking head) posted by Richard Skinner on May 16, 2000 at 20:43:52:

Richard, I would make sure the bearings in the lower end are o.k. and replace them if needed. If the tractor has been giving good service, it's debateable about sleeves and pistons and I think you are on the right track with the rest of it. Good Luck, Larry

hydro-power self shifting

Posted by larry wolfe on May 16, 2000 at 19:00:24: IP Address: 207.226.216.41

I have an 1850 hydro-power 2 speed that shifts constantly between low and high when lever is in low. stays in high when lever is in high. I did extensive testing useing a shop manuel,oil presure was as it should be. I switched all springs with a working unit. I also removed both springs,no differance. So I removed unit and replaced with spare.Now I can't find anything wrong with unit apart. Oil was clean,not burn't,piston spring tests same as new. Piston has small carbon amount next to ring. Would like to repair for a spare.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 17, 2000 at 05:12:53: IP Address: 209.163.7.8

In Reply to: hydro-power self shifting posted by larry wolfe on May 16, 2000 at 19:00:24:

Larry. I think your problem is probably in the direct drive clutch. I think the plates in it are warped. I think the plates are hanging up even when there is no pressure to engage the clutch. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on May 17, 2000 at 09:59:32: IP Address: 207.226.216.170

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by Larry Harsin on May 17, 2000 at 05:12:53:

They don't appear warped when put to a strait edge. If they where they would act like a pto clutch dragging all the time? Before dissembly when unit is turned over by hand it stayed in low and turned easely. I don't find any groves to stop dics from slideing. With springs removed pressure was still 20psi at top of filter(fiting brazed to top of filter as shown in service manuel).

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 17, 2000 at 11:47:39: IP Address: 209.163.7.28

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by larry wolfe on May 17, 2000 at 09:59:32:

Larry. I don't know what else to suggest is wrong. It will be interesting to hear what you find out. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on May 17, 2000 at 17:55:04: IP Address: 207.226.216.231

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by Larry Harsin on May 17, 2000 at 11:47:39:

I am out of ideas too. At first unit would shift once on its own when first started. Later it would shift 8 to 10 times crosing a field when warmed up. This forced me to use high allways. I have 6 tractors this unit would fit. Maybe someone else can help?

Posted by Pete in Ks on May 18, 2000 at 08:56:49: IP Address: 12.13.248.4

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by larry wolfe on May 17, 2000 at 17:55:04:

Larry is it possible that the wrong type oil could have been put in unit? Just brain stoming here.

Posted by larry wolfe on May 18, 2000 at 10:17:06: IP Address: 207.226.216.33

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by Pete in Ks on May 18, 2000 at 08:56:49:

The oil in unit had not been changed for 6 years. When problem started I changed oil + filter. The old oil looked clean and good. Later as it got worse I changed to 10w oil as a test it did not help. I replaced that with transmission type A, no change in operation. I spent 2 years trying and testing stuff. I bought tractor in 1981 and had never had it apart. I guessed it was a tough job and got my spare unit ready to go in first.

Posted by Chris Losey on May 18, 2000 at 21:04:24: IP Address: 216.93.69.231

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by larry wolfe on May 18, 2000 at 10:17:06:

Larry, just a little more brain storming here... How is the detent spring for the shifting spool? A weak or broken spring would let the spool move. How is the spool itself? If it were scratched or cracked, it might do like you are describing. Hope this might help. Chris

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 05:57:34: IP Address: 209.163.7.37

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by Chris Losey on May 18, 2000 at 21:04:24:

Larry. Chris has a good idea here! I have seen where spools could have caused a problem like this. Larry

Posted by larry wolfe on May 19, 2000 at 10:47:02: IP Address: 207.226.216.121

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by Larry Harsin on May 19, 2000 at 05:57:34:

THe spool will not move on its own. I did not compleatly disamble valve parts. I do have those parts in a unit from a burned tractor. Seals are gone bearings rough but most parts look useable. I need to find a way to test this thing ,so I have confidence it will work.

Posted by larry wolfe on May 23, 2000 at 18:01:12: IP Address: 207.226.216.218

In Reply to: Re: hydro-power self shifting posted by larry wolfe on May 19, 2000 at 10:47:02:

When I looked at valve I realized why I did not disassemble it more. The plug holding spring and ball is stuck. I will wait for rain to drill it out.

6' 550 clutch pressure plate

Posted by Alan on May 14, 2000 at 20:03:04: IP Address: 206.155.131.78

Larry,

Just split our 550. Put in new clutch, pressure plate, both pilot and throwout bearings, rear main oil seal and both transmission/ center housing bearings and oil seals. Put tractor back together.

Problem: Throwout bearing does not press on pressure plate levers enough to engage the clutch. Adjusted the clutch pedal all the way. Is there an adjustment on the pressure plate that I need to look at. Can I put washers between the flywheel and the mounting holes on the pressure plate to (shim out) the pressure plate. That would make the levers on the pressure plate go back or open where the throwout bearing would touch. I've never seen a pressure plate that you had to adjust. Thanks in advance. Alan Duke

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 16, 2000 at 05:14:40: IP Address: 209.163.7.64

In Reply to: 66' 550 clutch pressure plate posted by Alan on May 14, 2000 at 20:03:04:

Alan! I would guess you have assembled the throw out fork on the clutch pedal shaft backwards. Also check to see if the fingers on the pressure plate are too low. You may have to adjust them out or towards the back of the tractor. Larry

1600 PTO won't stop

Posted by Bob Semrau on May 11, 2000 at 13:21:13: IP Address: 208.223.205.165

Larry :

I just bought a 1964 Oliver 1600 gas. One thing I noticed before I bought it was that the PTO turns whenever the engine is running, unless one puts a load on the PTO with the engine off. How hard is it to rework the PTO clutch ? I'm going to buy a service manual, but do you have any hints ?

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 12, 2000 at 05:40:14: IP Address: 209.163.7.49

In Reply to: 1600 PTO won't stop posted by Bob Semrau on May 11, 2000 at 13:21:13:

Hi Bob! The PTO clutch is very simalar to the one in the 880. It will probably need to be torn down and have new seals put in. There's a good chance that the center plate is warped. Also it will probably need to have the lined plates replaced. And then there are 3 little springs about an inch long on the outer edge of the clutch disk and go through the center plate. I normally replace them also. Larry

Fleetline Frt Whls, Cast Hubs

Posted by Joe on May 10, 2000 at 15:17:27: IP Address: 205.243.45.116

Replacing bearings and seals. Any suggestions for a seal driver that won't damage the seals during installation?

Plan to use wheel brg grease on the brgs and a light coat of gun greaase on the seals. I know it's not the recommended lube, but should work - shouldn't it?

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 10, 2000 at 22:00:48: IP Address: 209.163.7.28

In Reply to: Fleetline Frt Whls, Cast Hubs posted by Joe on May 10, 2000 at 15:17:27:

Hi Joe! I don't know of any seal driver to install these seals. I just use a small punch and a hammer and go very slow and careful. As far as the lubricant, gun grease is what I use for both the bearings and the seals. Pack the bearings before assembly. Take the plug out and fill the hub with it after you assemble it. Larry

1600 gas runs bad when hot

Posted by Alan on May 09, 2000 at 19:37:34: IP Address: 205.188.195.37

My 1600 gas runs fine for 15 - 20 minutes then looses power, cuts out and eventually dies. I have put in the carb kit, new plugs, points, condensor, coil, wires, cap. I've adjusted the carb and done a compression test and found nothing wrong. The carb gets condensation and freezes over. Should I look for a vacuum leak or is there a heat exchanger in the intake manifold that could be fouled up? it has a marvel carb. Any advice you can share will be appriecited. Thank you, Alan

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 10, 2000 at 06:15:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.19

In Reply to: 1600 gas runs bad when hot posted by Alan on May 09, 2000 at 19:37:34:

Alan! If Dean and Don's solutions don't work, make a jumper wire and run from the battery connection on the starter to the post on the coil. If it acts better, there is a problem in the circuit between the ignition switch and the coil. Larry

Posted by Dean on May 09, 2000 at 23:55:03: IP Address: 208.155.28.214

In Reply to: 1600 gas runs bad when hot posted by Alan on May 09, 2000 at 19:37:34:

Next time it happens, immediately remove the gas cap. If the engine picks up speed, you've found the problem. In my case, the original gas cap gasket had deteriorated to the point where parts of it clogged the two small holes in the cap that are the gas tank vent. A new gasket and a few squirts of carb cleaner and I was back in business.

Posted by Don on May 09, 2000 at 20:45:48: IP Address: 205.188.192.174

In Reply to: 1600 gas runs bad when hot posted by Alan on May 09, 2000 at 19:37:34:

try drilling a hole in the gas cap on the inside and outside, in different locations. Ours did the same thing because it sucked so much gas, that it would actually create a vacume so strong in the tank that gas would eventually stop flowing all together. ever since it ran fine

1755 won't start

Posted by Don on May 08, 2000 at 20:43:02: IP Address: 205.188.198.151

Larry, i used my 1755 diesel to disc a field shortly after using it to plow it, and when i was done i shut it down in the field and now it won't start. sounds like it just isn't getting the fuel or something. any suggestions???

Posted by chief613 on May 14, 2000 at 19:23:16: IP Address: 209.222.76.29

In Reply to: 1755 won't start posted by Don on May 08, 2000 at 20:43:02:

pretty new to this stuff, but could it have been run out of fuel and have air in the lines and needs to be bleed??? or is the fule shut of cable workin properly? just a suggestion

Posted by Wrenchbender on May 09, 2000 at 11:20:32: IP Address: 209.240.200.162

In Reply to: 1755 won't start posted by Don on May 08, 2000 at 20:43:02:

Don, I'm not sure what all you have checked, but you might check to make sure the cable that shuts the fuel off is pushing the lever back to the run position. Sometimes the clamp on the cable will come loose or slip and let the cable bow up instead of pushing the cable back. Are you getting any smoke out of the exhaust at all? Good luck, WB.

Posted by Don on May 09, 2000 at 20:40:52: IP Address: 205.188.192.174

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by Wrenchbender on May 09, 2000 at 11:20:32:

the linkage is fine. it smokes a little, and if i try starter fluid it sounds ready to go but doesnt fire

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 08, 2000 at 22:33:54: IP Address: 209.163.7.33

In Reply to: 1755 won't start posted by Don on May 08, 2000 at 20:43:02:

Don, You'll have to make sure that fuel is available to the injection pump. If there's plenty of fuel available to the injection pump, it must be a problem in the injection pump itself. Be sure that the transfer pump is moving fuel through the filters over to the injection pump. A worn injection pump will sometimes not restart a warm engine but after things cool down they'll restart. Larry

Posted by Don on May 09, 2000 at 20:39:14: IP Address: 205.188.192.174

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by Larry Harsin on May 08, 2000 at 22:33:54:

the tractor has been sitting for several days and still no luck

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 10, 2000 at 06:22:04: IP Address: 209.163.7.19

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by Don on May 09, 2000 at 20:39:14:

Hi Don! You might get a big sledge hammer!!:-) I don't know what to try. At this stage I would take the pump off and take it to a pump shop and have it checked out. Larry

Posted by Richard Skinner on May 11, 2000 at 04:50:14: IP Address: 63.166.22.73

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by Larry Harsin on May 10, 2000 at 06:22:04:

Larry, I was wondering, even if the fuel pump or injector pump was out, wouldn't starting fluid still allow the engine to fire? Ofcourse it won't stay running but it should pop off for a short time, unless he has a plugged air filter or something.

Posted by larry wolfe on May 11, 2000 at 05:33:09: IP Address: 207.226.216.140

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by Richard Skinner on May 11, 2000 at 04:50:14:

With a broken govener ring the fuel output goes down to near zero, as a safty feature. some engines will pop or idle very slow. Sometimes they will run on ether. The description includes a statment saying engine trys to start but won't. You may have to turn engine over with timing plate off to see dark chunks. Govener ring is non metalic. I have had this happen twice to differant tractors in 4 months. Information is partly from the diesl shop I use.

Posted by larry wolfe on May 10, 2000 at 10:55:53: IP Address: 207.226.216.184

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by Larry Harsin on May 10, 2000 at 06:22:04:

Remove timeing cover on intection pump fuel should flow out if not clean safty screen at pump intake. IF you see dark coffey ground like stuff then govener ring is broken, take off and send to diesel shop.

Posted by larry wolfe on May 11, 2000 at 17:53:13: IP Address: 207.226.217.30

In Reply to: Re: 1755 won't start posted by larry wolfe on May 10, 2000 at 10:55:53:

Don't try to remove safty screen. Use something to suck out the crudd. There is a hole in the bottem of the screen that opens if lifted out the top. All the stuff will run into the pump. Guess how I found out.

OLIVER 550 CLUTCH DRUM REMOVAL

Posted by Alan on May 06, 2000 at 20:40:41: IP Address: 206.155.131.93

Hey Larry,

Just split the tractor into to replace clutch,pressure plate. Tractor had been slipping in 5th and 6th gear. Thought the clutch disk had had it (orig since 1966). The clutch disk was in suprisingly good shape. There was a lot of oil in center housing. Don't know if it is the rear main or coming from the transmission. I decided to replace both the rear main seal and the oil seal behind the clutch drum. Problem is I can't find a spanner wrench to get the clutch spider gear nut off. I have manual that gives the tool # but as you are well aware, there are no Oliver dealerships around anymore. No where I can find a spanner wrench? Thanks, Alan

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 07, 2000 at 04:47:20: IP Address: 209.163.7.19

In Reply to: OLIVER 550 CLUTCH DRUM REMOVAL posted by Alan on May 06, 2000 at 20:40:41:

Alan! I know what you are talking about. I don't have a spanner wrench either. You can make one with a piece of pipe and grinding it down to make it. I have gotten by using punches and chisels. I don't know if you can even buy a spanner wrench any more. Larry

354c.i. perkins

Posted by rolland on May 05, 2000 at 12:04:53: IP Address: 12.13.248.12

engine had terrible miss loosened nuts at each injector and isolated two faulty cylinders.I had a water in the fuel problem so I had the injectors rebuilt. problem still existed. I pulled the head and found a blown gasket b/t 5 and 6 cyliders. stud bolt at this location was rusty and face of exhaust valves in 5 and 6 cylinders were shiny. all other valves faces in head were black with carbon. My question is? do you think that some water was getting into the cylinders for a long time and when the gasket finally gave way the water to fuel ratio was just too high? Also, do you think that i have found the only problem?

Posted by Richard Skinner on May 09, 2000 at 19:20:35: IP Address: 63.166.22.92

In Reply to: 354c.i. perkins posted by rolland on May 05, 2000 at 12:04:53:

Water getting into the cylinder will cause the valves to be clean. Make sure the heads not cracked, replace the gasket and faulty bolts, and you should be in business.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 05, 2000 at 22:44:01: IP Address: 209.163.7.25

In Reply to: 354c.i. perkins posted by rolland on May 05, 2000 at 12:04:53:

Hi Rolland! I don't know. With these two cylinders with the valves shiny you didn't have enough compression to make a fire and the raw fuel washed the valves so that they were shiny. You'll have to look things over and if everything else looks ok, just put it back together and try it out. Larry

oliver 60 -- muffler

Posted by randy on May 04, 2000 at 11:47:52: IP Address: 63.89.2.100

larry, i bought an 1948 oliver 60 RC two years ago. great shape, original condition tractor. just a super little tractor. i use it for light brush hogging on our 35 acres.

anyhow......

two questions.....

1. regarding the muffler..... the "tailpipe" sits on top of the muffler. mine has been welded, but originally think they came with some sort of clamp. but..... how is the muffler connected to the manifold?? i got my oliver manuals down, and if i read it correctly, the muffler just sits under its own weight in the manifold with no brackets or connectors. this is how mine is currently configured, and that's what the manual seems to indicate. is this right??

2. i had an electrical problem last summer. on the oliver 60 RC there is a relay that sits on top of the generator. that relay works in conjunction with the light switch (which has a rheostat on it) and together they act like a voltage regulator. my light switch was burnt out, so i had to rewire it with a true voltage regulator on top of the generator. Why?? I COULD NOT FIND A REPLACEMENT LIGHT SWITCH with that dadgum rheostat on it. any ideas where i could find one in the future, or who might make a replacement switch??

Posted by Lindley Clark on May 26, 2000 at 11:59:47: IP Address: 206.160.142.6

In Reply to: oliver 60 -- muffler posted by randy on May 04, 2000 at 11:47:52:

I am having the same problem with the switch on my 1944 Oliver 60. I don't understand the purpose of the voltage regulator tied into the switch. Why can't I use an after market switch ited to a power source such as the battery with a fuse link between? I need some advice and explanation on how all this worked.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 05, 2000 at 05:36:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.44

In Reply to: oliver 60 -- muffler posted by randy on May 04, 2000 at 11:47:52:

Hi Randy! The muffler on your 66RC is the way it came. When new, that was driven into the manifold and made to fit tight. Yours has no doubt worn and loosened. I don't know where you can find a replacement light switch. I havn't found anyone who is making them. The way you fixed it is probably the way I would have done it. Larry

Cockshutt

Posted by Jon on May 03, 2000 at 15:50:53: IP Address: 152.163.197.208

I am trying to identify the following Cockshutt tractor: serial number 215 131-427, model number 475-22219. I would also like to buy a front-end loader for this tractor. If you can help, please e-mail me at richlandautoinc@cs.com.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 21:56:57: IP Address: 209.163.7.24

In Reply to: Cockshutt posted by Jon on May 03, 2000 at 15:50:53:

Hi Jon! I'm guessing that it's a Cockshutt 1850 or maybe a 1750. Right now I don't know who might have a loader for it. Larry

Trip loader for Super 55

Posted by Keith on May 03, 2000 at 05:55:42: IP Address: 63.81.237.69

Larry: back again. I have an oliver loader on my 55. It will not pick up much weight at all. Have changed the Hyd. oil and cleaned the inside of the Vickers control valve with little or no increase in power. The spool looks good. I ,am trying to move some loose topsoil that has a lot of sod mixed in with it. I can pick up only about half a wheel barrow full. Any suggestions?

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 21:47:42: IP Address: 209.163.7.24

In Reply to: Trip loader for Super 55 posted by Keith on May 03, 2000 at 05:55:42:

Hi Keith! My first guess would be you have a worn pump with low pressure. You should have at least 900 psi with warm oil. Check this with a pressure guage. Larry

Posted by Keith on May 05, 2000 at 05:55:42: IP Address: 63.81.237.93

In Reply to: Re: Trip loader for Super 55 posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 21:47:42:

Larry:

First off are there parts readily available to rebuild this pump? I don't have access to a pressure gauge at this time to check.

Second, You mentioned a while back you might have a rebuildable Spring Seat assembly.(super 55) I am going to need one in a month or two if you have it still. I have been off work for surgery for three months. Will start back Monday and will have a little more money to put into the tractor. I can't buy it yet but hang on to it

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 05, 2000 at 11:46:03: IP Address: 209.163.7.24

In Reply to: Re: Trip loader for Super 55 posted by Keith on May 05, 2000 at 05:55:42:

Hi Keith! I think you can probably get these parts at your AGCO Dealer. I will have the seat for you. Glad to hear you are getting better. Larry

Oliver 770 Hydraulic Pump

Posted by Greg R. on May 02, 2000 at 21:18:50: IP Address: 209.153.14.29

Hello,

I pulled the hydr. pump tonight,the only glitch I had was removing the gear shift. I made a little sheet metal plate like it showed in the I&T Manual, to slide under the shifter cap or holder, this plate was to slide under the holder, before you lifted it off. I did a good job making the plate, and being sort of stupid I slid it in in such a manner that one of the springs fell into the tranny. but it was right there so I plucked it out with a magnet. So the one spring and the two lil' spring caps, stayed put in the top or holder, my questions is: are there two lil' spring caps on the bottom of the springs, or do the springs just rest on the main housing, in other words, are there 4 lil' spring caps , or 2 . I am hoping 2 ,,,,!

Now as far as the hydr. pump; nothing looks cracked or unusual, I assume the pump seals are a simple seal on each side or end of the pump, I am guessing I will have to split the pump, and tap out the seals, any secret tricks, or surprises that will spring up when I do this. Things went pretty well, only cussed a couple times, and did not throw any tools.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 04:57:41: IP Address: 209.163.7.50

In Reply to: Oliver 770 Hydraulic Pump posted by Greg R. on May 02, 2000 at 21:18:50:

Hi Greg! Yes, there are only 2 caps. When you take that pump apart, you will find that you probably have to replace the bearings. If you do replace, you will have to use a little chisel to cut the outside race so that it can be removed. That last statement pertains to the smaller bearings. Observe the position of the bearings before removal. When installing the new bearings, press or drive against the end of the bearing that has the identification numbers. I use my 1/2 inch drive impact sockets for pressing tools. When you remove the small bearings, the bore may have to be smoothed with a small rat tail file. Larry

Posted by Greg R. on May 03, 2000 at 05:21:58: IP Address: 209.153.14.31

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 770 Hydraulic Pump posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 04:57:41:

So, I can remove the pump from the main plate without anything falling apart or flying out at me.

I do have a hydr. press so that will work pretty slick pushing out the bearing.

Thanks again,, I will send ya' a bottle of champaign, for all your help when I get this little job done,,,

Posted by Greg R. on May 03, 2000 at 07:26:08: IP Address: 209.153.14.29

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 770 Hydraulic Pump posted by Greg R. on May 03, 2000 at 05:21:58:

Ah nuts!

I have hit my first roadblock on the hydr. pump job. I pulled the pump from the main plate, and saw a crack in the center housing of the pump. after removing all the bolts, and very lightly tapping a putty knife between the housing and the outside cover, a chunk of the center housing just fell off. It broke right at the bolt holes. The seals and bearings "looked" fine , no wiggle or wobble.

Options?? could a good welder weld that piece back in ? Can you buy a new/or used center part of the pump, or is it all or none? I saw a new pump in my Qualtiy Farm and country book,,, about 350 $. My wife will demand I sacrfice some of my body parts if I hit her with that all at once. I may be able to buy a complete Super 88 deisel nearby, [ it caught fire, burned off one rear tire, and other stuff, I have not seen it yet ] for almost that price.

Posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 22:05:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.24

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 770 Hydraulic Pump posted by Greg R. on May 03, 2000 at 07:26:08:

Hi Greg! I think you should buy the S88 at that price!!!!!! You might want to check and see if the pump is ok. No that plate can't be welded. You can buy the various parts. I don't have any of those center plates right now. Larry

Posted by Greg R. on May 03, 2000 at 22:48:38: IP Address: 209.153.14.27

In Reply to: Re: Oliver 770 Hydraulic Pump posted by Larry Harsin on May 03, 2000 at 22:05:23:

Ok, thanks for the email also,, this is a summer project, so I have some time to shop around for parts,,, I will let you know if and when I find that center housing piece.. I do not really know what the fellow here wants for his torched S88,, that would thrill my wife if a I drug home another broken tractor,,,,, thanks again,,,, greg

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