Carb for a 60

IP: 64.231.53.89 Posted on June 10, 2003 at 06:21:39 PM by Trevor

Larry, When I was looking through my new service manual I got for my 60, I was confused by what it said about the carburetor. The manual said that the 60 came with a Schebler carb but the carb that I took off my 1948 60 standard was clearly marked Zenith. Has some one put on a different carb? If not what model # is my carb? Thanks for all your help Larry. I am sure you will be sick of me by the time I get this 60 finished.

Re(1): Carb for a 60

IP: 209.163.7.88 Posted on June 10, 2003 at 10:24:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Someone has switched the carb on your 60. Larry

Oliver block numbers

IP: 64.122.86.214 Posted on June 10, 2003 at 10:23:31 AM by Troy Williams

Is there a chart that lists what block number goes with what tractor? If so how do I go about getting a copy? New to oliver so I am trying to learn about them before I buy one, I want to know what I am getting. Thanks. Troy

Re(1): Oliver block numbers

IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on June 10, 2003 at 06:06:14 PM by Larry Harsin

No. There is no list of block numbers. There is a list of tractor serial numbers. This list is on the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. website: www.hartparroliver.org I believe. Larry

Re(2): Oliver block numbers

IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on June 12, 2003 at 09:14:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Actually, I believe the website you need to check is Sherry Schaefer's at: www.oliverinformation.com. Larry

Oliver 1355

IP: 216.248.100.138 Posted on June 9, 2003 at 04:34:59 PM by GARY L.JUNKINS

Larry what can you tell about this unit. have any idea what it should be worth. thank you

Re(1): Oliver 1355

IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on June 9, 2003 at 11:33:35 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1355 was made in Italy by Fiat. It has 50 HP. It weighs about 4500 lbs. It is probably worth about $2500 if it is in good condition. Here is a website you may want to check out: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html OR another place you may find parts is from Harold Wolfe at 423-581-5557. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1355

IP: 216.248.100.138 Posted on June 10, 2003 at 04:44:42 PM by Gary

thanks for the info. I'll do some checking.

OC-3 - IXB Hercules Parts

IP: 66.94.36.11 Posted on June 9, 2003 at 11:35:39 AM by Jim Yeames

I was wondering where to buy pistons, rings, a camshaft, and bearings for my 1955 OC-3 with an IXB engine. Are they still available or are there cross references that will fit? Thanks Jim

Re(1): OC-3 - IXB Hercules Parts

IP: 209.163.7.72 Posted on June 9, 2003 at 12:52:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net or Ph. 717-738-2573. He is a Cletrac expert and sells parts and service. Larry

fire order

IP: 142.169.134.66 Posted on June 8, 2003 at 07:21:21 PM by Richard

We would like to find the fire order of the oliver crockshutt 60's motor

Re(1): fire order

IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on June 9, 2003 at 00:11:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The firing order is 1 - 2 - 4 - 3. Larry

oliver70 rowcrop

IP: 63.155.192.210 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 09:36:29 PM by phil

I just purshased a oliver70 rowcrop today and cannot find serial# or the year it was made anywhere. Help me please! thankyou.

Re(1): oliver70 rowcrop

IP: 209.163.7.21 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 10:27:50 PM by Larry Harsin

The serial number is on a tag on the left side of the engine. On some of the tractors, under the transmission, sometimes a casting date is cast into the frame. This helps if there is no serial number tag. If you find a serial number, email it to us and we can tell you the year. Larry

88 manifold specs.

IP: 66.168.7.63 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 09:07:49 PM by Chris

Hi Larry, I'm going to be installing new intake and exhaust manifolds on my brother's 88 HG and I don't have any torque specs for the following: Bolts that hold intake and exhaust manifolds together. Manifold nuts that hold the manifolds onto the engine.Also is there a sequence to those bolts. Also where is a good place to get a service manual for the Row Crops that have all these specs. Thanks for any info. Chris

Re(1): 88 manifold specs.

IP: 209.163.7.21 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 10:24:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think there are any torque specs really. I would bolt the 2 pieces together and not have the bolts very tight, then install the manifold to the engine and after everything is lined up, then tighten the bolts that hold the manifold together. The bolts that hold the manifold up to the engine work from the center out. I would not exceed 35 - 40 foot pounds on these bolts. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual from Mary Ann at Charles City Museum. Email: fchs@fiai.net. I think and I & T Service Manual would be sufficient and less money than the Oliver one. The Oliver one covers several tractors and is a little spendy. Larry

880 Clutch Shaft

IP: 216.190.66.224 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 12:34:04 AM by Steve Merritt

I've got an 880 with helical gears (1959, no power boost). The hollow shaft between the clutch and the transmission seems too short. It only penetrates the pilot bearing about an 1/8". The input shaft measures 12". Is this the correct input shaft? Thanks.

Re(1): 880 Clutch Shaft

IP: 209.163.7.21 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 10:18:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that is the proper shaft. You may need a new splined coupling. I think I have one. If you need it, email me. Larry

Re(2): 880 Clutch Shaft

IP: 216.190.67.98 Posted on June 8, 2003 at 12:57:54 AM by Steve Merritt

My splined coupler is good. And I believe it is the correct one (KA576A). How far should the hollow clutch shaft extend into the pilot bearing? My only extends about 1/8". That doesn't seem far enough. Any thoughts?

Re(3): 880 Clutch Shaft

IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on June 9, 2003 at 00:09:58 AM by Larry Harsin

It should be in there approx. 1/2 inch. Larry

Power Booster Drive

IP: 209.130.137.212 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 10:54:24 AM by Scott Green

Hi Larry , A friend of mine just bought an Oliver "880" tractor. Like most times , when first buying a tractor , they need some tinkering , in order to bring them back up to good operating condition. The power booster drive control lever had a lot of play in it. I mean a lot of play. Upon inspection , the forks which snap the power booster drive clutch bearing back and forth is badly wore out. The two pins on the bearing are also very badly wore. I'm shure you have seen this situation many many times. My questions are: 1.) Are the forks still available? If so , Where would we get one? Can we fix the old one. 2.) The pins which the forks slip over ; can I cut them off the bearing , and weld new ones on with out damaging anything else? It looks like someone has done this in the past. They had also welded nuts on the end of the forks. It is simply all wore out again. We don't want to pull the engine if we don't have to. We are open to any and all suggestions you may have. Thank you for you time and knowlege. Scott Green

Re(1): Power Booster Drive

IP: 209.163.7.21 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 10:13:19 PM by Larry Harsin

You about have to put in a better one or a new one. I think I have a used one. I'll look in the morning. I don't think that I have the throw out bearing assembly. If you need to replace that, you will have to pull the engine. Larry

Re(1): Power Booster Drive

IP: 209.130.137.212 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 11:12:32 AM by Scott Green

One more question Larry , This tractor has a transmission filter. I assumed it was added on buy a previous owner. Is this factory? How would I check to see if this was working ok? Where should I start? Thanks again , Scott

Re(2): Power Booster Drive

IP: 209.163.7.21 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 10:15:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It's an after market improvement package made by Oliver for that tractor. Simply unscrew the filter with the engine running to see if the pump is working. If oil drips out around the filter it is o.k. Larry

77 oliver row crop

IP: 24.117.163.36 Posted on June 6, 2003 at 06:22:51 PM by Leon Jolin

I HAVE A NARROW FRONT END ON MY TRACTOR AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF I CAN PUT A FRONT END LOADER ON IT, AND WHERE CAN IGET ONE AND ABOUT HOW MUCH WOULD IT COST. YOURS TRULY. LEON

Re(1): 77 oliver row crop

IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 06:37:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can put a front end loader on it and it will work just fine. I have sent you an email about the one I have. I read your Guest Book question before I saw your question here. Larry

Re(1): 77 oliver row crop

IP: 68.80.69.116 Posted on June 7, 2003 at 12:39:49 AM by Mike Renner

I have a 88 Oliver Row Crop narrow front with a loader on it. It was made by the Do-All company and it has been on there for the last 50 years and it works just fine. Good luck Leon. Mike Renner

Spark Plug Question

IP: 141.151.39.74 Posted on June 5, 2003 at 06:14:28 AM by Dan Supplee

What is a current spark plug part # for my 1941 Oliver RC engine. Thanks, Dan Supplee

Re(1): Spark Plug Question

IP: 209.163.7.58 Posted on June 5, 2003 at 08:13:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Do you have a 70 or a 60? D 16 Champion or a C 86 AC plug works for them. Larry

Re(2): Spark Plug Question

IP: 141.151.39.74 Posted on June 6, 2003 at 07:44:47 AM by Dan Supplee

This one is a 60 Larry. Thanks, Dan

hydralic filter nut on 1850

IP: 67.73.146.162 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 09:56:36 PM by ned

larry sorry to bother you again but was wondering what size is the nut on the cast filter housing (I don't have a socket that large and will have to borrow one) also has anyone ever reused the O-ring gasket i just want to check it (i had a new filter put on when pump was put on 10 months ago) also in a pinch what type of fluid can be put in hydralic system (i know it says white type 55 hydralic) but farm and fleet doesn't carry that they have Aw/AL hydralic, Trans/hydralic universal/JD/inter, DEXRONlll/MERCON auto transmission fluid, of these three choices which works the best in a pinch or should stay away from them. Also what is the tools i need to get the relief valve appart (size of nut) i think i have a late model 1850 (have over and under drive)i know its on the right front corner of housing. THanks again for your help.

Re(1): hydralic filter nut on 1850

IP: 67.0.81.53 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 10:59:20 PM by Dean Barker

I have had to use a big pipe wrench on a couple of my Olivers. It doesn't slip off and most big pipe wrenches will handle an extension. It does mess up the paint, but smooth up and repaint when done.

Re(2): hydralic filter nut on 1850

IP: 209.163.7.58 Posted on June 5, 2003 at 08:23:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I use a big Crescent Wrench or a big Pipe Wrench on both applications. In the hydraulic system on the 1850's, I use 10W non-foaming hydraulic fluid. However, the Hy-Tran or Automatic Trans Fluid will work. As long as the "O" ring isn't nicked or something, it should be good to reuse. Larry

Servicing 770 Hydraulics

IP: 24.169.117.152 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 07:00:50 PM by Justin

Larry, I purchased a 770 about a year ago. I have not had a need for the remote hydraulic system until recently, and want to be sure I thoroughly flush all fluids and change the filter before hooking up to any of my implements. I assume the filter element is sticking out of the right side of the unit - is this an easy to find filter (is there a Baldwin part no)? Any recommendations on how to flush everything out well? Thanks

Re(1): Servicing 770 Hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.58 Posted on June 5, 2003 at 08:18:02 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can get the filter from AGCO. The part number is 103096AS. If you take this part number to NAPA or other Baldwin filter place they will supply you the filter that will match. To drain this unit, I would simply undo one of the hoses and start the tractor engine and let it pump the fluid out of the unit. It won't get 100% of it, but it will get most of it. Then, install the new filter element before putting oil back into the unit. Also, while you are doing these things, check the rubber boots on the levers on the top of the unit. If they are cracked or bad, I would replace them. Larry

Tach cable

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 02:02:19 PM by Dan

I've searched many sites and have had no luck finding a tachometer cable for a 1950 gm. I'll be listing it for sale soon and want it to be right. Any help is appreciated. thanks

Re(1): Tach cable IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 06:35:53 PM by Larry Harsin Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Rear wheels

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 11:20:08 AM by Joe Shaffer

What is the measured bolt pattern on the rear wheels of a 550??? I'm needing to buy some new wheels and the guy asked if it had a 24 1/4 bolt section. I told him I didn't know, so this is where you come in..

Thank you.. Joe Shaffer

Re(1): Rear wheels

IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 06:38:09 PM by Larry Harsin

According to the parts book, there are 4 different ones. You will have to measure the wheels that you have and go from there. Larry

Re(2): Rear wheels

IP: 68.103.107.81 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 11:17:11 PM by Joe Shaffer

Thanks Larry

Oliver 60 Shift Pattern

IP: 198.208.6.35 Posted on June 3, 2003 at 01:20:08 PM by Trevor

Larry, Could you try and discribe the shift pattern of an Oliver 60 for me. I have been told it was a 5 speed so I assumed a patern like.
1 3 5
N
2 4 R
But I was told it was a double H or something. I don't understand what that means. I am familiar with the 77 pattern which is something like,
Hi range
1 3
2 r
N
1 3
2 r
Low range
Is this what is meant by a double H. How does it add up to 5 forward speeds?

Re(1): Oliver 60 Shift Pattern

IP: 209.163.7.35 Posted on June 3, 2003 at 07:31:37 PM by Larry Harsin

The shift pattern on an Oliver 60 is like the 77 pattern only 5th gear is over to the right and down. You can get 5th gear in both ranges on a 60. It is the same place in both ranges. Reverse is to the left and forward on both ranges. One is fast and one is slow. The Double H refers to the shift pattern being an "H" in high range and an "H" in the low range. The high range H would be: Left forward is reverse, left back is 1, Right forward is 2, right back is 5. In the low range: Left forward is reverse, left back is 3, right forward is 4 and right back is 5. Neutral is of course in the center of each "H". Then half way between the 2 Neutrals shuts off the belt pulley. The High and Low range also changes the speed of the belt pulley. Larry

440 oliver

IP: 67.74.29.91 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 08:21:43 PM by bruce

larry,im looking at a 440 oliver.are these good tractors and what are the part avalibality.what would the price range be,thank you,bruce.

Re(1): 440 oliver

IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 11:49:41 PM by Larry Harsin

As far as I know, the 440 is o.k. I have not had any experience with them. Parts availability is fair. The person to get parts from is Ollie Schaefer at email: olliesch@papadocs.com or 618-664-3050. I don't know what the price range for one would be. Another question to ask Ollie. Larry

1750 hydraulics

IP: 64.154.120.26 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 08:15:38 PM by Ron Hansen

Larry, On earlier posts to this site, you have explained how to set up a 1750 hydraulic system with power beyond. I want to use it to operate 2 single acting cylinders on my sprayer booms. How will this setup effect the operation of the standard remote valves and the 3 pt hitch? Thanks

Re(1): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 11:46:14 PM by Larry Harsin

They will be unaffected. Larry

oliver 70

IP: 12.217.10.10 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 01:16:07 PM by rod

i got a oliver 70 that has a crack on top of the block between all of the cylinders was wonder if it would be better to find a new block or will it be alright? also need need rings for it if can use that block or where i can get a block that will work in it thanks rod

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 11:44:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Cracks between the cylinders on top of the block are a common problem on 70's and usually doesn't cause a problem. If you do not have anti-freeze getting into the oil not, I believe I would go ahead with it as is. You can get rings from Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276. They may have other parts for that engine also. I may have some new old stock rod and main bearings, depending on which ones you might need. Email me if you need these. Larry

low hydralic pressure on 1850 oliver

IP: 63.208.64.5 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 00:01:19 AM by ned

after putting new pump in last year ran around 15 hours before lost pressure had to rev tractor up at end of the field to get it to raise 4 row planter after another 4 hours would barely raise planter and would not raise markers gave up on tractor (also to lower planter had to rev up to high rpm's) hydralic fluid is full also at low rpm's steering gets weak. The agco dealer that did work gave up dealership and let go of all its machanics so they can't look at it. trying to find new machanic will try to get them to check relief valve and check pump pressure am I on the right track any other advice would be appreciated. Sorry to say my opinion of 1850 oliver hydralics is quite bad at this time you see i bought this tractor last year and put 10 hours on it before the pump blew the front seal and was out of comission for the year. at over $2200.00 in repairs i was hoping to get over 20 hours this year.

Re(1): low hydralic pressure on 1850 oliver

IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 06:50:18 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be the relief valve. It might be sticking. There may be a brass screen in there, that lets oil into the relief valve. This may be ruptured or dirty, causing your problem. If you so happen to have the later style relief valve (the one with the brass screen and plunger) my dealer told me that some of the dealerships had changed some of these later styles back to the early type because of recurring problems with this relief valve. I think I may have one of those early style relief valves if you need it, email me. Larry

Re(2): low hydralic pressure on 1850 oliver

IP: 65.56.131.123 Posted on June 3, 2003 at 09:44:38 PM by ned

Larry thanks for the advice will check it out this weekend, great site by the way.

Oliver 70 steering wheel

IP: 143.115.159.54 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 10:27:42 PM by Larry

Is the steering wheel from an Oliver 70 the same as the one from an Oliver 77?

Re(1): Oliver 70 steering wheel

IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on June 2, 2003 at 06:40:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they are the same. Larry

Oliver 1600

IP: 209.32.113.178 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 06:45:55 PM by Gary Jordet

I recently bought an Oliver 1600 and was wondering if anyone could tell me what the horsepower of this tractor is? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1600

IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 09:24:05 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1600 is 56.5 HP. Larry

55 identification

IP: 66.244.68.15 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 11:07:23 AM by Mark Popielski

I recently bought a 55 with a specification # of 15-0005 and serial # 7 964-518. This doesn't seem to match any list I've found on the net so far. Can you tell me what year it is, or if it is possibly not even a 55? It runs great, but it does need some work and I want to know what manual to buy.

Re(1): 55 identification

IP: 66.244.68.15 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 11:13:22 AM by Mark Popielski

I just read another post where you told someone that a Super 55 doesn't have power steering. Mine does have power steering, so does that mean it isn't a 55? If you need more info, I will try to get it for you, but this is my first tractor, and I lived in the city my whole life until 4 years ago, so I'll have to scrounge around to get it.

Re(2): 55 identification

IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 09:21:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Your serial number tells me it is an early S55 built in 1954. There was power steering on some of the earlier ones. Larry

1855 troubles

IP: 216.81.222.180 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 09:08:09 PM by Howard Clark

I had the drive coupler chain let go on me this morning while mowing with the bush hog. Got a new chain, could not get things lined up right to get it on there. It appeared that the shafts were not in alignment just right to me. So, I loosened up all the motor mounts, and moved it around some. I think I punched a hole in the over/under hydraul shift case with the jack bolt. Things are not looking good at this point. Anybody got a case for that unit, or a whole one ? I am open for other suggestions, but it looks t o me like I am going to have to tear it down to nearly bare frame again, and start over, paying careful attention to alignment. On a related question. Is it possible to pull the transmission input shaft from the front if the motor is out ? The splines are worn badly, as are the splines in the sprocket, and I am sure this is also related to the chain biting the dust today. A whole bunch of little things, all combined to make one really bad day.

Re(1): 1855 troubles

IP: 209.163.7.36 Posted on May 30, 2003 at 06:24:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a case for or a hydraul unit. Check with Wes Dorhout 712-324-2760. When the engine is out, is the time to pull the transmission input shaft from the front. Larry

White 2-70 Steering cylinder removal

IP: 65.201.245.196 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 08:13:04 AM by Craig Hilbrandt

I have a White 2-70 (~1981) which is leaking hydraulic fluid out of the end of the steering cylinder (under the radiator). I have remove the big nut at the bottom of the steering shaft, removed the bolt from the arm at the back of the unit (was told this didn't really hold it it) and removed the radiator. I'm trying to remove the cylinder, with an engine hoist from above and have tried a jack on the shaft from below and it won't budge. I've felt around the shaft to try to find a set screw or anything else, but I can't find anything holding it in. How can I persuade it to come off?? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks......

Re(1): White 2-70 Steering cylinder removal

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 08:06:54 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2, 3/8 inch cap screws that hold the lid on the top of that unit. Also, there is a 1/8 inch pipe plug in the center of that lid. If possible, remove that plug. This will make it easier to pry the lid off the steering unit. After you have the lid off, there is a round cap on the top of the steering sector. That cap has a groove for 2 screw drivers (one on each side) to pry the cap up out of there. Actually, this cap is a plug with an "O" ring on it. After you get this out, you will find a puller bolt that takes a 1 and 1/8 in. socket. Unscrew this bolt and as you unscrew it, it will start turning hard after you have broken it loose. Keep turning it to loosen it and pretty quick it will break the unit loose from the steering shaft. This is a "puller bolt". Now, after you have disconnected the steering lines, you can remove the steering cylinder. Note that there are timing marks on the steering sector that have to be matched up with the marks in the steering cylinder. Larry

1600 Steering

IP: 68.35.148.93 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 09:25:39 PM by Tim Stein

I have a 1600 with hydraulic lift system. The steering is abnormally tight. However, the three point hitch lift works fine. The tractor has a flow divider valve and I need to know if perhaps the flow divider is stuck. Or if the problem could be with the front cylinder under the radiator. Thank you for your kind response. Tim.

Re(1): 1600 Steering

IP: 208.10.124.109 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 11:32:23 AM by Larry from MD

The flow divider could be stuck or the spring inside it could be broken.I have had to replace 3 of those springs over the years.

Re(2): 1600 Steering

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 07:57:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree. That is probably what the problem is. Or a regulator spool could be sticking. Larry

Rocker Shaft Seals

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 08:21:34 PM by Drew

Larry to replace the rocker shaft seals on a 1655, can we pull the pto shaft and housing all together or do we need to pull the shaft first and then the housing. Thanks for any help.

Re(1): Rocker Shaft Seals

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 07:54:51 PM by Larry Harsin

If you are talking about the rocker shaft seal on the top, those can be replaced without removing anything but the lift arms. However, if you have to replace the lower rocker shaft seals on the bottom of the tractor, the PTO drive shaft will have to be removed first. Then the PTO unit will have to be pulled off the rear of the tractor so that you can replace those seals. Larry

1850 gears locked up

IP: 66.226.101.187 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 07:58:10 PM by Bill

Hello, My dad has a problem with the 6 speed trans. The top shaft just under the cover has three gears on it. There is a sliding gear that goes between low and high on the shaft. The center gear is the main drive and I assume the one toward the front is high and the one toward the rear is low. The one in front turns independently of the main drive when we turn it manually but the one in back seems frozen to the shaft and is off center by a half tooth. The slide wont slip onto the rear gear. Is there an easy remedy for this? Thank you

Re(1): 1850 gears locked up

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 07:51:39 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you have had a lubrication failure and it has caused the one gear to be galled to the shaft. If it is locked up, the top shaft with the gears on it will have to be removed from the tractor. If your tractor is equipped with a hydra power drive or a hydraul, the engine with the auxilary transmission will have to be removed before you can remove the transmission shaft. In other words, this is a major operation. If you don't have a Shop Manual, you should get one before attempting to do this. You can get one from Mary Ann at email: fchs@fiai.net. I had a tractor like this where I had to use an acetelyne torch to get the shaft removed and get the gear off the shaft. It was all welded together. Larry

Re(2): 1850 gears locked up

IP: 69.26.22.193 Posted on June 1, 2003 at 04:51:08 PM by Anonymous

when you have this apart, make sure to check the lube pump!!

Oliver 550 pto clutch

IP: 216.12.60.154 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 07:33:13 PM by John Patterson

I'm trying replace the seal on the pto shaft on the back housing. I've pulled the pto shaft back but can't get the nut loose that the shaft goes though. There is a seal in front of it. Does the seal need to come off first and if so how do you go about taking it off? Thanks for any advise you might have.

Re(1): Oliver 550 pto clutch

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 07:44:07 PM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to take off the 4 half-inch nuts that hold the seal retaining plate. The seal is pressed into the seal retaining plate. The plate should come off and you should be able to replace the seal and the belt. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 pto clutch

IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on May 30, 2003 at 10:28:24 AM by STU

Just did this John, on my Super 55. Be prepared for a flood of tranny oil once you undo those 4 nuts and pry the seal off, if the systems are the same. I have a cut off 5 gallon bucket to fit under the tractor, and it filled a lot of it. If your not prepared for oil its all over the shop, I was lucky to have the bucket handy, only a little spil.

Re(2): Oliver 550 pto clutch

IP: 63.155.196.9 Posted on May 31, 2003 at 07:47:51 AM by RoockinB

Stu: There are 3 drain plugs on the bottom, one for each section.Drain first then disasemble. I would suggest buying a repair manual.

Re(3): Oliver 550 pto clutch

IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 01:16:39 PM by Greg

I have a 550 as well and did the same. I agree draining the fluid is a smart thing to do PRIOR to pulling the Support Housing. Secondly, I'd suggest using the Traction Drive Shaft as a clutch alignment tool if you're doing clutch and/or pressure plate work. I looked all over for an alignment tool and couldn't come up with one.

Oliver 66 carb and valve tappet adjustment questions

IP: 136.160.129.193 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 05:04:57 PM by Clint

Larry, On the TSX 363 carb there are two adjustments (idle mixture and high speed load adjustment.) Engine warm. My 66 op's manual says I can adjust the high speed adjustment in and out have the engine lose power (stumble) both in and out adjustment. However, the idle mixture screw, when adjusted, will have no affect. It acts like the screw makes no difference. I just rebuilt the carb and I'm wondering if one of the air passages is still not cleaned out? What's you thoughts? Take her apart and soak her good again and air hose it again? Also, I need to adjust the valve tappet clearence and I'm not totally certain which valves are the intake or the exhaust for cyclinder 1 and so on. Standing on the side of the 66 with the oil filter, looking at the front of the engine with the water inlet elbow. Which one is what? One last thing. If I pull down on my throttle, the engine cuts out and then the engine cathes up to the movement. Is any of this caused by the two mentioned questions above or is the governor in need of adjustment? Thanks for your time. Clint

Re(1): Oliver 66 carb and valve tappet adjustment questions

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 07:36:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove that fuel nozzle that screws down into the carb. There are several small holes in that fuel nozzle and one of them could be plugged. That will also help to blow out the passages in the carb casting better, too. The tappets are .010 on the intake and .018 on the exhaust, with the engine at room temp. It starts at the front with exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust, exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust. On the throttle, it could be fuel, governor or it could be ignition timing. Or it could be the two things above. Being you are working on the carb, I would get it better before I started doing other things. Larry

1755/1855

IP: 65.165.88.62 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 06:28:38 AM by Larry

Larry, Whats the difference between the 1755 and 1855 other than the HP? Thanks Larry

Re(1): 1755/1855

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 07:28:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1755 did not have a Turbo Charger and the 1855 did. That is the main diffence. Larry

Oliver 70 Std.: Electrical Problems

IP: 160.36.200.254 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 10:37:49 PM by David C. Baker

My 1948 model 70 Std. keeps burning out ignition switches (including the heavy-duty 75 amp-rated switch for 6-V systems (NAPA)) and have trouble with burned points. I ran this rig on an 8-volt battery for about 2 yrs., but have switched back to 6-V with a new set of points and switch, and a complete re-wiring. I am positive ground, with original generator. Darn thing still burned out the switch and the points look burned, too. Any suggestions?

Re(1): Oliver 70 Std.: Electrical Problems

IP: 209.163.7.9 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 11:49:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd replace the wire that goes from the coil to the switch. It must be grounded out someplace. I'd also replace the wire that goes from the coil to the points. Larry

1750 hydraulics

IP: 67.1.212.169 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 06:42:40 PM by Brian

My hydraulics work untill I use the selector valves. Then sometimes they continue to work but most of the time I have a total hydrailc failure, (stearing, hitch, everything). If I restart the tractor they work again untill I use the valves. Any suggestions. Thank you.

Re(1): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 06:09:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that the main relief valve is sticking open. This is located on the right front upper corner of the hydraulic unit. Unscrew the cap and remove the valve assembly from the cap. This has a habit of sticking. Located in this unit, there is a small brass screen, that you can see when you look in there. Quite often this screen is ruptured and allows foreign material to enter and stick the relief valve. Clean this screen or replace if necessary. Also check the hydraulic filter, it may need replacing. Larry

Re(2): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 67.1.206.87 Posted on May 28, 2003 at 11:57:27 PM by Brian

I took the main relief valve out and found damage to the plunger seat. But could not find any brass screen or one in the I & T service book I have. The seat looks as if the plunger did not aline properly to it. I have ordered new parts but can not find that brass screen in the parts book either. Are we not looking in the right place?? This is the Hydro-electric system if that matters. Thanks for your time.

Re(3): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.29 Posted on May 29, 2003 at 08:10:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Your unit is an earlier version and doesn't have the screen I was referring to. You are on the right track. Larry

Tractor idenification

IP: 63.67.89.199 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 04:14:22 PM by david

I'm trying to find out information on my Grandfathers' tractor. It's an OLIVER and I think it's a 4 cylinder. Inspection #: 150007 Serial #: 18432518 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Tractor idenification

IP: 209.163.7.9 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 07:07:44 PM by Larry Harsin

A little discription would help. Is the gear shift on the left side of the seat? I have an idea it is a S55 or a 550. Is it a small utility type like a Ford? Larry

cockshut 60 seat & Hood

IP: 198.208.6.35 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 01:35:02 PM by Trevor Stone

I just purchased a cockshut 60 without a seat. I have had a quick look around the internet and there seems to be two different styles. Was there a difference between the Oliver and cockshut seats or was it a different in years. Also the cockshut I own has the aluminum hood. What years were the hoods aluminum used and were the side panels aluminum too (side panels are missing from mine)? Thanks for the info Trevor Stone Oshawa, Ontario Canada

Re(1): cockshut 60 seat & Hood

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 05:54:49 AM by Larry Harsin

The cockshutt and the Oliver will have the same seat. The difference is in the years they were made. There are at least 2 different styles made by Oliver. Some other companies made seats for 60's as an aftermarket item. One company being Monroe. I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Tim Smith at email: Smittytractor@aol.com. The aluminum hoods were made for a short time after WWII because of shortages of sheet steel. There were a few aluminum side panels. Larry

1600- engine parts

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on May 25, 2003 at 11:01:20 PM by Don-WI

Hey Larry, I was wondering if you would be able to put together an enine kit for my 1600 gas, and how much it would cost. I am just checking around right now for the right price, but the engine shop should be getting back soon as to what size bearings I need right now. As it seems right now, they said 10/10 bearings, I need all new exaust valves, guides and springs for both, pin bushings, cam bearing, pistons/sleeves, etc. I already checked with the dealer, and some they are reasonable, others, not very reasonable. It has 3 5/8 pistons, but from what I looked at on the serial, I thought it matched up with the earlier, and I was going to put in an over size kit, but they said one isn't available for the 3 5/8. It also had hardened valve seats in the head, and I never heard of any engine work being done on my grandpa's tractor. Donovan from Wisconsin

Re(1): 1600- engine parts

IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 07:06:57 AM by Larry Harsin

When we get some facts and figures together, we will email you. Larry

row crop 60

IP: 67.209.34.45 Posted on May 25, 2003 at 09:10:28 PM by allen

i was wondering on the row crop 60 can a three point be put on it and some way the hydrualics can be pu ton it and dow they can be done

Re(1): row crop 60

IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 06:59:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't seen a 3 pt. on a 60. It would take a lot of doing, but anything is possible. I wouldn't reccommend putting hydraulics on a 60. The tractor is too little. Larry

Oliver 770 steering adjustment

IP: 68.80.69.116 Posted on May 25, 2003 at 12:44:22 AM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. I have a 1965 770 narrow front without power steering. There is a good bit of play in the steering. Is there anyway of of getting rid of the play or is it just worn out? Thank you for your help. I love this website. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver 770 steering adjustment

IP: 209.163.7.9 Posted on May 25, 2003 at 08:04:16 PM by Larry Harsin

It's easily repairable. Take the cover off the unit and look and see what is going on then get back to me. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 770 steering adjustment

IP: 208.10.124.166 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 05:20:58 PM by Larry from MD

Have you tried the adjustment screw yet.To remove the cover you NEED to screw this bolt into and through the cover to get it off.

Re(3): Oliver 770 steering adjustment

IP: 68.80.69.116 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 07:30:55 PM by Mike Renner

I haven't seen any adjustment screws that I know of. My cover is just held on with four bolts and then just pulls off. There seems to be slop between the gears. I tightened up the two bolts where the steering shaft goes through, but it made the steering wheel tight so I backed them off again. Not sure what to do next. Thank you for all of your help. Mike Renner

Re(4): Oliver 770 steering adjustment

IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 05:45:40 AM by Larry Harsin

There should be shims on the cap that you tightened. It sounds like someone has been in there before and didn't work on it properly. I think you should get a Service Manual for that tractor. An I&T Manual would be sufficient. (Cheaper) You can get one from Mary Ann in Charles City at email: fchs@fiai.net. There are 3 different adjustments for that unit. The Shop Manual would cover these procedures. I have shims, if you need some, email me at cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Re(5): Oliver 770 steering adjustment

IP: 68.80.69.116 Posted on May 27, 2003 at 09:31:25 PM by Mike Renner

I have a I&T manual so I'll see what I can find in it. I'm also going to look into the manual Mary Ann has. Thank you again for your time and knowledge. Your a very big help to me.

dual speed PTO

IP: 216.106.56.78 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 07:18:34 PM by Jason Epperson

I was wondering if I could put a dual speed PTO unit off of a 50 series tractor on to an 1800. Will this work? Thank you.

Re(1): dual speed PTO

IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 09:21:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if this will work or not. I have never encountered this situation. Possibly someone has tried to do it. The 1800 does not have pressurized oil going back to the PTO unit, whereas the 1850 does. Larry

Re(2): dual speed PTO

IP: 216.106.56.69 Posted on May 25, 2003 at 12:33:51 AM by Jason Epperson

I didn't know there were any differences in the way oli got to the PTO unit on these tractors. I was just curious to see if this would work. Thanks.

70 gearbox

IP: 62.253.128.7 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 03:44:27 PM by Howard Trendell

Hi, I thought I would try your message board as well. I am trying to locate a 19/29 tooth sliding gear to uprate a 70 gearbox to six speeds. I have a later gear but the spline is too large for the shaft. Can any body out there help? I can supply dimensions if needed.

Re(1): 70 gearbox

IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 09:17:53 PM by Larry Harsin

We finally understand what you are asking. We have been confused about just what part you were asking for. We have sent you an email about the part number and hopefully we will be able to help you. Larry

Oliver Tractor Part

IP: 216.180.212.151 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 11:31:28 AM by Ronda Forseth

I have a can shaped item that is 15 1/2 inches high and 9 and 7/8 inches across. It has OLIVER OIL-GAS BURNER AND MACHINE CO. ST. LOUISE, MO. on the side. It has a valve on the bottom that you can turn off and on. Can you tell me what this item is and what the value is? Thank you.

Re(1): Oliver Tractor Part

IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 09:14:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Contact Ollie Schaefer at email: olliesch@papadocs.com. Possibly he will know as he lives in the St Louis area. This may be a company named Oliver that has nothing to do with Oliver tractors. Larry

1750/1755

IP: 65.165.89.72 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 06:49:55 AM by Larry

Larry, Do the late model 1750's ( the ones with the over/under)have the same hydraulic pumps as the 1755? and are they the same horsepower as the 1755? Thanks in advance, Larry

Re(1): 1750/1755

IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on May 24, 2003 at 09:08:17 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic pumps are not alike. The 1755 has the new style closed center hydraulic system. They are both 80 HP. Larry

1850 under drive

IP: 144.92.164.199 Posted on May 22, 2003 at 08:12:29 AM by mm

I have a 1850d and when I pull on the underdrive nob sometimes it does not go in and stays in neutral untill I move it around. Is there a fine adjustment for the hydrapower unit it goes into the direct part ok

Re(1): 1850 under drive

IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 22, 2003 at 07:46:02 PM by Larry Harsin

Your problem is a sprague clutch that is not engaging the shaft. I would drain that unit and install automatic transmission fluid and change the filter. It used to call for Type A fluid, but now there is a universal transmission fluid that works in all tractors. If this does not help, the unit will have to be torn down and repaired. It will require a new sprague clutch and anything else that shows excessive wear. Larry

66 range shifting difficulties

IP: 206.176.217.55 Posted on May 21, 2003 at 02:18:45 PM by greg

Larry, I have a 1949 model 66 that has a mechanical lift, I am having trouble shifting between hi and low range, once in the ranges shifts easily between gears. Usually takes me about 5 minutes of hunting around for the right "spot" to get it into opposite range, lo to hi and hi to lo same difficulty. Also, do you still have a regular cover, I would like to do away with the mechanical lift. Thanks Greg

Re(1): 66 range shifting difficulties

IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on May 21, 2003 at 08:25:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a cover. Your centering springs on the shift lever might be bad. Check them first. Make sure that the dogs on the shift lever havn't broken loose. If they have, reweld them. Larry

oliver 1365

IP: 65.150.249.118 Posted on May 21, 2003 at 11:44:03 AM by GREG

I'm looking at a 1365 4wd with 3600 hrs, new rubber, runs good. Do you have an idea what it may be worth? I have to act fast. Thanks

Re(1): oliver 1365

IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on May 21, 2003 at 08:22:13 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is in nice condition and complete, I say it is worth between $4000 & $5000. Larry

Oliver 70 Hydraulics

IP: 143.115.159.54 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:26:33 PM by Larry

Did Oliver make a hydraulic pump and valve system for the Oliver 70? IH and John Deere had hydraulics during the mid 40's. I find it hard to belive Oliver did not have some type of hydraulic system for their tractors.

Re(1): Oliver 70 Hydraulics

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:34:31 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that they did have. I think it was an after market affair that drove off the front of the crankshaft (engine). Guys now put a Char-Lynn pump on the PTO. Larry

1850 RPM drop

IP: 209.248.61.156 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 08:39:34 PM by Jonathan Maupin

We have a 1964 Oliver 1850 w/perkins diesel. Lately while under heavy load(like setting an implement in the ground), the engine RPM will drop slowly from 2000 to 1900 and so on. Moving the throttle lever forward corrects the RPM drop for a short time but it begins falling again. Engine has plenty of power but obviously bogs when RPMs fall below 1700 under load. Can't see throttle lever moving but it seems when you hold the throttle lever with your hand, RPMs stay the same and problem goes away. Throttle linkage doesn't seem to have any adjustments that could correct this problem. Any ideas what the problem might be? thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1850 RPM drop

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:29:03 PM by Larry Harsin

There's a friction adjustment on the throttle lever shaft. The tin cover above the gauges has to be removed, then you can adjust the friction brake on the throttle lever shaft. Adjust it by simply turning the cast nut on the brake just a tiny bit clockwise to tighten it. This will make it so it holds position. This is covered in the Operator's Manual. Larry

Oliver 1800 PTO Problem

IP: 64.33.181.6 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 06:53:12 PM by Paul A Ramey

I looked at a 1800 diesel today. Real clean. Keep in a shed. Great starter. When I tried to engage the PTO the lever moved a little then stopped moving and would not engage the PTO. What could cause this? Is this a major problem to fix? I liked the look of the tractor other wise and think that I can get it for a low end price. Thanks Paul

Re(1): Oliver 1800 PTO Problem

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:24:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. If you can't get it to engage, you may have to take it apart and check it out. Larry

Oliver Parts

IP: 66.228.102.53 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 08:25:14 AM by Wanda & Galen Mangus

We are looking for: hood fastening pan head 5/16" screw 1/2" long with a star-locking washer. We will appreciate your help.

Re(1): Oliver Parts

IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:21:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Korves Bros. at email: korves@htc.net Web: www.korvesoliver.com. Larry

row crop 60 clutch

IP: 67.209.30.240 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 09:57:13 PM by allen

well i need some advise on redoing the clutch. do i need to pull the motor or am i able to pull the hood to have a nuff room to put out the pressure plate and disc. i know the throw out bearing is out and disc look fair. it was haven a hard time doing to gear cause of the throw out bearing. the drive shaft is given me hardest problem also it seems like it needs to come back about a inch to have room

Re(1): row crop 60 clutch

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 05:59:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Removal of the engine is not necessary. Unbolt the drive coupling so it can be slipped forward on the drive shaft and unbolt the bell housing. You may also have to remove the little tool box in there. Then you should be able to gain access to service the clutch. Larry

1450 Fiat Parts

IP: 66.248.68.23 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 08:46:11 PM by Richard

Larry, I am looking for a supplier of parts for the Oliver 1450 (Fiat). Particularly a head gasket, diesel transfer pump to the injector pump and engine rebuild components. I know this engine was built by Fiat but was the whole tractor made by Fiat? If so might engine parts be available from a Fiat dealer or maybe even an Italian supplier? What ever information you can pass my way would be greatly appreciated. I would really like to know more about this tractor. I understand that the head gasket was a weak spot for this model. Can you explain why this was the case and if there is anything I can do to prevent this from happening to mine as it currently runs very good and the parts I am looking for would be for future use. Thanks Richard

Re(1): 1450 Fiat Parts

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 05:54:29 AM by Larry Harsin

The whole tractor was built by Fiat. You can get parts from Rick's Agri Parts at: www.ricksagriparts.com or Danny Bowes at: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html or Harold Wolfe at: 423-581-5557. The Fiat's weren't sold around here, so I don't know if the gasket was a weak spot. I havn't serviced them. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from Mary Ann at Charles City. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Oil Change Interval

IP: 24.169.117.152 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 04:47:48 PM by Justin

Larry, What little info I have on my 770 lists a very short oil change interval (something under 100 hours) I'm sure this was based on lubricants from years ago. My tractor had an extensive engine rebuild recently. It pulls a manure spreader daily and I'm running 10W-30 Oil. How often should I change oil?

Re(1): Oil Change Interval

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 05:45:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I would change the oil at least every 100 hrs and maybe more often like every 75 hrs. Larry

Disk Operation

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 10:28:31 AM by chris

Larry, i inherited an oliver disk from my father in law, and i don't know where the cylinder gets attached. the only thing i can tell you about it is that it says 241 on the front of it, and that it has 2 "eyes" where i'm guessing the cylinder attaches, but the back eye moves, and doesn't seem that it would work with the cylinder. sorry that's not too descriptive, but any help you could give me would be appreciated.

Re(1): Disk Operation

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 05:43:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You are correct in assuming the cylinder mounts there. If it will not lift when you extend the cylinder, there is probably a place where you insert a pin so that the cylinder can lift the disk.

Super 99

IP: 209.32.67.84 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 01:02:39 AM by Tom Picquet

I have the body of a Super 99, but no heart, that is there is no engine. This tractor apparently had the turbo diesel as the fuel tank is designated "diesel". I know this tractor also came with the 6 cyl Oliver gas engine. Which is easier to get and if neither can be found at a reasonable price; is there another engine that could be used? Thanks for any and all information.

Re(1): Super 99

IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 05:29:30 PM by Larry Harsin

The 3 cylinder GM diesel engine will be the easiest to obtain and the easiest to repair. A 371 Detroit is not too uncommon. If you'd advertise in "Antique Power" magazine, I think that would be the best place to get one. Larry

Re(2): Super 99

IP: 208.10.124.35 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 05:45:07 PM by Larry from MD

Be aware to add a 371 to the frame of a 6 cyliner you will have to cut the frame to get it in.Allso there are differant configurations of the 371 and some of them need the frame cut on two sides.bin there done that.

Oliver clutch indentfication

IP: 136.160.159.66 Posted on May 17, 2003 at 04:04:48 PM by CP

What model tractor did Oliver use the Borg and Beck 980 model clutch? It has an 8" clutch plate like the 66RC but I can only find that the Borg and Beck model 989 clutch was used in the 66RC. Was 980 used in the RC60? Thanks for you help.

Re(1): Oliver clutch indentfication

IP: 209.163.7.7 Posted on May 17, 2003 at 11:13:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It's possible that the 980 was used in the RC60. It sounds reasonable. Larry

1952 Oliver?

IP: 67.75.102.89 Posted on May 17, 2003 at 11:12:41 AM by Craig Mullen

I have the opportunity to purchase what I am told is a 1952 Oliver with a front loader and owner added backhoe. Currently the engine is froze from sitting. I couldn't find any numbers. Could you please tell me the possible models that this tractor might be? Also any pictures would be great. If parts are missing to put back together is it worth buying ($1200) or should I run away?

Re(1): 1952 Oliver?

IP: 209.163.7.7 Posted on May 17, 2003 at 11:09:23 PM by Larry Harsin

In 1952 Oliver made the 66, the 77 and the 88. This is probably an Industrial model of one of those if indeed it is a 1952. I'm afraid you are going to have to be more help than that for us to identify the tractor, let alone send pictures of it. You don't say from where the parts are missing - the tractor? the backhoe? the loader? If the backhoe and loader were both Ware brand which Oliver used often, you can still get parts as Ware is still in business. With so little information, it is impossible to place value. There HAS to be numbers somewhere on the tractor and identification tags on the loader and the backhoe. You should check it over some more. Larry

Re(2): 1952 Oliver?

IP: 67.75.98.149 Posted on May 18, 2003 at 10:14:16 AM by Craig Mullen

Sorry about the lack of information. The engine is a 4 cylinder with oliver written on the exhaust manifold. The loader frame said shawnee mfg. on it. The backhoe is definitely not related to the unit since it is newer vintage and obviously too big for it. The owner pulled the engine to replace the clutch and had trouble getting parts. After the seize, it was never put together. I couldn't find the fan or air filter any and hardware is probably lost. Basically anything removed to pull the engine is in question, otherwise the rest of the tractor is all there and together. It is not a real big unit, but it has a wide front end with about a 3 foot wide bucket on the loader. If these are the only possible models for that year, can you tell me the approximate weights as I need to determine how to get this animal home if it is possible to get any missing parts for it. Unfortunately, the tractor is 2+ hours away so getting more info is tough. Thanks again for your help!

Re(3): 1952 Oliver?

IP: 209.163.7.84 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 06:13:09 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a 1952, it has to be a 66, because it is a 4 cylinder. With a backhoe and a loader this will weigh approx. 8000 lbs give or take a little. When you mention Shawnee loader, it makes me question the year and model of the tractor. Is this tractor laid out like a little 8N Ford? Is the gear shift on the left side of the seat? If so this may be an Oliver S55, but then it wouldn't be a 1952. However, if the gear shift is on the right side of the steering column, I still believe you have an Oliver 66. From the sound of what you describe as parts missing, those shouldn't be too hard to find. If the block is cracked, it will be hard to find a block. I would be inclined to try to fix it, if it were my decision, providing that it looks feasable. The little 66's are quite desirable. Larry

Re(4): 1952 Oliver?

IP: 67.75.112.222 Posted on May 20, 2003 at 04:50:38 AM by Craig Mullen

The tractor does resemble an old Ford that my uncle once had, but I don't know if it was an 8N. The gear shift is "on the floor" to the left of the seat. Also, in case it matters, the ####er is not straight like some pictured, it has 2 45 angles in it. If not a 1952, what year might it be for an S55? Would the 8000 weight be the tractor and loader with or without the backhoe? Thanks again

Re(5): 1952 Oliver?

IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on May 21, 2003 at 08:35:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe you have a S55, as the shifter is to the left side of the seat. Also, it is shaped like a Ford. S55's were built from 1954 thru 1958. The 8000 lbs would be for the tractor,loader and backhoe. It may be a little less heavy being it's a S55. Larry

hydraulic pump

IP: 63.171.187.29 Posted on May 17, 2003 at 01:51:11 AM by bob strawn

could you tell me which models of oliver hydraulic pumps interchange with a 880d oliver tractor pump

Re(1): hydraulic pump

IP: 209.163.7.7 Posted on May 17, 2003 at 10:56:06 PM by Larry Harsin

77 through 880 hydraulic pumps will work. Larry

Re(2): hydraulic pump

IP: 63.171.187.94 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 11:16:06 PM by bob

thanks that helps a lot. bob

Trans. Oil pump on 880

IP: 64.19.81.91 Posted on May 15, 2003 at 09:10:21 PM by kris

I noticed you have an 880 for sale that looks like it has a transmission filter in the same spot as mine. I'm not sure mine is working because I've changed the filter and since then have checked it and it is dry. The lines are all hooked up from the bottom of the trans. to the pump, then to the filter , then over to left side of the trans. case. I'm wondering if when I changed the oil (which drains the pump suction line) if the pump is not sucking the oil up to it because it looks to me like the oil level plug for the trans. is lower than where the pump sits(do I have to fill the lines to prime it?). I have the power booster so the pump is very hard to get to. Do I really need this setup or can I remove the filter and lines and plug off the holes? I believe this was a field installation due to some poor flushing from the factory.

Re(1): Trans. Oil pump on 880

IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on May 15, 2003 at 10:32:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I have encountered this problem before. This tractor needs to have this pump working. I would check things out and prime with oil as necessary. The inlet screen for the pump could possibly be plugged. I've also found pumps that were not properly installed and never did work. I would reccommend that you get it so that it pumps oil. Larry

880 pulling planter

IP: 216.106.56.54 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 09:29:45 PM by Jason Epperson

I was wondering if you think an 880 gas has enough power and hydraulics to pull a John Deere 7000 6 row No-Till Planter. I was mainly concerned about the hydraulics operating the markers correctly. Anybody have any experience with this combination? Thank you

Re(1): 880 pulling planter

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 10:53:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I doubt if you'll have enough hydraulics to do the job. I don't think the valving will be good enough and I don't think you'll have enough pressure. Larry

super 55 pto spider

IP: 66.43.224.95 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 07:42:30 PM by Allen Boyd

I need some help in removing the pto spider drum. Is the retaining nut left hand threaded (is clockways off?).Where can I find the special spanner wrench. I see a small hole drilled in the drum, is this used to hold the drum? Also should it drip oil after I remove the drive hub,or does that mean the inside "o" ring is bad? I also need some parts: pto clutch plates both metal and fiber- throw out bearing- throw out bearing return spring- oil seals for pto drive hub (lip type)- "o"ring and lip seal for spider drum. thank you, Allen Boyd 26374 265th St Shell Rock, Ia 50670 t112286@netins.net

Re(1): super 55 pto spider

IP: 216.114.96.209 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 08:17:35 PM by Dan

Try korves oliver. they should have what you need.

Re(1): super 55 pto spider

IP: 209.163.7.34 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 11:15:31 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to call Owatonna Tool Co. and get a spanner wrench number ED3434. You will need this special wrench and an extension. It's been so long since I have done one of these that I have forgotten if it is a left hand thread or not. The Service Manual does not say. Examine it and see - I believe maybe it is a left hand thread. The Service Manual does not show a small hole, but that may be what it is. If it would work to hold it while you turn the nut, I would use it that way. It is possible that it will drip oil after you remove the drive hub. I would certainly replace the "O" ring. For parts, contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Schwartzrock at Charles City may have parts also. Larry

Re(1): super 55 pto spider

IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 01:59:30 PM by Greg

Allen; On my 550, which is similar in many respects, the retaining nut was staked in place. So it's very tight. The hole is just for holding. I used a drift that fit perfectly. I contacted Owatonna and they did not offer the tool for sale. I used a brass drift and a hammer, heat (mapp gas), cutting oil (higher flash point), heat, hammer, oil, heat.... You get the picture. No oil retained by these parts.

Super 55 loader

IP: 69.21.16.165 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 09:57:37 AM by Jon Feins

I would like to get a loader for my super 55. I saw some for sale that were for a 550. Is there a certain model # loader I should be looking for? Should I think about converting to power steering with a loader?

Re(1): Super 55 loader

IP: 66.43.224.95 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 07:48:08 PM by Allen Boyd

I have a good 2-way loader for sale I just took off my super 55. It has its own front driven pump (works fast). It is front heavy with the loader so counter weights help.

Re(2): Super 55 loader

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 10:59:52 PM by Larry Harsin

It's not very feasible to put power steering on a S55. Also, without power steering, I would be reluctant to put a loader on a S55. As mentioned by Allen, a counterweight would be desirable. Larry

Re(3): Super 55 loader

IP: 65.160.241.43 Posted on May 26, 2003 at 06:50:23 AM by Mike Nassif

I have had a S 55 with a 1610 Oliver loader. Steering was VERY HEAVY!! Had rear wheel weights, so that was not a problem, but steered hard & was difficult to manuver in tight situations. Wouldn't do it again, my .02 worth.

Hydraulic fluid sending unit

IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 07:42:06 AM by Greg Davis

Larry, Do you have any idea where the hydraulic fluid temperature sending unit is that operates the warning light on a 2255? I'm trying to straighten out some wiring on a 2255 I bought. As always, thanks for all your help. Greg

Re(1): Hydraulic fluid sending unit

IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 10:56:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it's on the left side of the unit under the operator's seat. It's not far from the rock shaft on the left side. Larry

Re(2): Hydraulic fluid sending unit

IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on May 15, 2003 at 06:49:26 AM by Greg

Thanks Larry. Greg

oliver 1955

IP: 63.121.83.29 Posted on May 13, 2003 at 09:07:59 AM by steve

My son bought an Oliver 1955 at auction last weekend. We can only operate it in the low range. We assume the over-under-direct lever is what should get us the different speeds. Is this correct? If so it is not working. Where do we go from here?

Re(1): oliver 1955

IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on May 13, 2003 at 11:22:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Wes Dorhoudt at 712-324-2760. He can help you with the hydraul. Larry

Re: oliver 1955

IP: 64.94.14.72 Posted on May 14, 2003 at 03:21:49 PM by John

In order to use the high range you will need to move the shift lever into the high range area. While in nuetral, directly in-between where you would shift into 1st or 4th move the shift lever downward into the high range. Your over-direct-under shifting is working as it is supposed to. Hope this helps.

1850 pan gasket

IP: 207.162.163.19 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 07:43:18 PM by Tommy Cannon

I am trying to get my 354 perkins back together and the pan and timing cover gaskets in the federal mogul kit are wrong. The tractor is a 66 model and the oil pan is to long for the gasket and the timing gear cover is different from the gasket. The parts house needs a parts number or something to get me the right gaskets. Did the newer 354 have a shorter oil pan? So far everything else in the overhaul kit has worked fine. Any help would be appreciated. thanks, TC

Re(1): 1850 pan gasket

IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 11:11:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't encountered this problem. There are differences in these 354 engines. Your parts supplier should be able to obtain the correct gaskets for your application. Larry

hard shifting

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on May 12, 2

003 at 06:44:26 PM by dave i have a 880 oliver with a power divider,and i have a hard time shifting the tractor from low range to high.the power divider works fine.i know you have to shift it with the tractor in the low side.it just won't go between the two ranges good.any thoughts? thanks .

Re(1): hard shifting

IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 11:08:02 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably you have a worn poppet block for the center shift rail. The poppet block gets enough wear that the ball wedges. It's a lot of work to replace the poppet block. To accompolish this, you must remove the engine from the frame, then remove the power booster housing assembly from the front of the transmission frame, then it's possible to get at the poppet block as it sits on the front of the transmission housing. Larry

Oliver Hi Crop

IP: 216.76.136.104 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 04:02:22 PM by Rick D

HI Larry, This is a great site. I love getting out and finding old tractors, and just purchased an Oliver Hi crop tractor in pretty good overall condition. I believe it is an Oliver 1600, but can't seem to find out. SN tag is kind of rough, but reads 16-2714 and then 140241-607. Was wondering if you might have any information that might help me, and if you have any idea how many were made. Thanks a bunch, Rick

Re(1): Oliver Hi Crop

IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 11:03:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Your serial number is 140241. It is a 1964 model 1600 Oliver. We have no way of knowing how many Hi-Crops were made. Larry

oliver to cummins engine swap

IP: 65.90.150.58 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 10:09:14 PM by jerry skinkis

do you have any info. on 1855 or 1955 engine swap to cummins b-series ? any info. would be greatly appricated.thank you

Re(1): oliver to cummins engine swap

IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 06:24:31 AM by Larry Harsin

These names just came out in the HPOCA Magazine listed as "Repower Experts Specializing in Cummins Conversions: Cummins Great Plains, Cedar Rapids IA 319-366-7537. Cummins North Central, St Paul MN 651-638-2469. Hunley Sales & Service, Austin IN 812-794-2771. Midwest Diesel, Beemer NE 402-528-3201. Superior Diesel, Rhinelander WI 715-369-5900. Larry

Re(1): oliver to cummins engine swap

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on May 13, 2003 at 02:09:26 PM by Shep

You can check out my website, I have cummins/Oliver information on there and have done several conversions. If you have questions feel free to e-mail me and I will be glad to help

Super 55 steering box

IP: 63.188.161.133 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 11:12:16 AM by Rich Pruett

Sir, I am in the process of re-building my steering box and I'm confused as to placement of the steering gear pitman shafts. As you know, the left side is different than the right side. I did't mark the spindles when I pulled the pitman arms; live and learn! The left side only has teeth on about a fourth of the shaft where as the right one has teeth on about three fourths of the shaft. The tires are pointed straight ahead and as I removered the pitman arms, I left them where they layed. Would you be so kind as to point me in the right direction as to how these shafts fit or line up?

Re(1): Super 55 steering box

IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 07:14:24 PM by Larry Harsin

You should look for marks on the arm where the splines go onto the shaft. There should be a mark there that will line up with a mark on the shaft. I checked my shop manual and there is nothing in it to tell you what to do. It really shouldn't be that tough. You may have to do a trial and error. Larry

Re(1): Super 55 steering box

IP: 12.94.178.95 Posted on May 12, 2003 at 01:50:14 PM by Mike B

As Larry suggests, reassembly is intuitive but here's a tip. You can do this on your bench or tractor, but if on the tractor, disconnect the pitman arms. Try to put everything - the steering sectors and ball nut in the center relative to each other then put a mark at 12 o'clock on the input (steering wheel) shaft. Loosely put the covers back on as the turning thrust could make things skip. Rotate the shaft from lock to lock. You'll know that you have it right when there is the same amount of rotation in either direction. When finished, take the end play out by gently tightening the thrust screws on the steering sector outside covers while rocking the steering wheel. You need some resistance to get it right so put the pitman arms back on.

Re(2): Super 55 steering box

IP: 207.67.12.56 Posted on June 4, 2003 at 01:53:09 PM by Greg

Did the same thing on my 550. Once back together and on the tractor I counted the number of turns to the left and right. It was mismatched. I opened it back up, pulled the sector outward so that I could rotate the steering wheel (wormdrive). I added a turn to the "low" side and reassembled. Got it on the second try. If there are no match marks as Larry suggests you'll have to take a similar approach.

880 Oliver

IP: 209.166.135.192 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 07:17:22 AM by Chris Spiardi

Need information or schmetics on clutch and pto rebuild for my farther-in-laws tractor.

Re(1): 880 Oliver

IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 07:06:23 PM by Larry Harsin

You should get a Service Manual for this tractor from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

I77 Deisel

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on May 10, 2003 at 03:57:45 PM by Scott R.

I have a 1951 Industial 77 Deisel with a Liberty Truck and Tractor (of Denver) Conversion on it. It has a front blade with a hand lever hydralic pump and a weird backhoe ( a Henry?) the bucket cylinder goes to the front of the bucket. Wanted to know what it might be worth? It has been used hard and has a broken frame rail that has been bolted back together, tin is dented and side curtains are gone.

Re(1): I77 Deisel

IP: 209.163.7.14 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 07:12:51 AM by Larry Harsin

It's hard to say. If it runs, it sounds like a $1000 - $2000 deal to me. We have a 770 Industrial with a Henry backhoe. The Henry Co. was in Topeaka KS and it has disappeared. We havn't been able to trace it. We have inquired different places. We would like to find an Operator's Manual for it. I havn't seen one where the bucket cylinder goes to the front of the bucket. Larry

Re(2): I77 Deisel

IP: 64.12.96.205 Posted on May 13, 2003 at 09:42:37 AM by Scott R.

I will do some "digging" for the manual for this one.

Front oil seal

IP: 12.29.179.131 Posted on May 9, 2003 at 01:29:57 PM by Jim F.

Larry, one other question. When I rebuilt this 88 engine, I put in brand new front and back oil seal from Korves Bros. The front is leaking. Should I give these a chance to "break-in"? When I assembled the engine I coated the surface with moly assy. lube. Thanks in advance. Jim Filges, Chicora, PA.

Re(1): Front oil seal

IP: 209.163.7.35 Posted on May 9, 2003 at 10:27:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd wait awhile, but you may have to tear it apart if it doesn't stop leaking. One posssibility is the seal fits too tight on the pulley hub and won't slide back and forth. Larry

transmission cover

IP: 64.157.16.201 Posted on May 8, 2003 at 09:33:04 AM by steve

Larry, I'm looking for for a transmission cover to fit a 77 rowcrop. I want to remove the mechanical lift. Do you have a cover like i'm talking about and if so how much? Thanks Steve.

Re(1): transmission cover

IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on May 8, 2003 at 10:24:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a cover. Check with Tim Smith, 330-832-9792. It's best to call him in the evenings. Larry

Re(2): transmission cover

IP: 199.120.105.44 Posted on May 11, 2003 at 08:26:24 PM by Tony Pegram

I think that I have a aluminum plain transmission cover in my parts shed. I will try to look for it tomorrow. E-mail me if you still need one. I am in western IA. Tony

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