Oliver square baler

IP: 4.244.196.12 Posted on May 31, 2007 at 09:08:35 PM by kelly durrill

We bought an old Oliver square baler and the plunger is "froze" up. Any suggestions and kicking this baby loose?

Re(1): Oliver square baler

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on June 2, 2007 at 08:56:01 PM by Larry Harsin

No. Not really. Good Luck! Larry

Re(2): Oliver square baler

IP: 72.198.206.229 Posted on June 3, 2007 at 06:54:18 PM by Larry Kruse

I would first try to locate where is it frozen. Then DIVIDE AND CONQUER. The major points would be the bearing on the crank shaft, the plunger slide or the cranksaft gear box. If you take the connecting rod loose and the plunger slides and the crank turns it was the connecting rod bearing.

seat instructions

IP: 70.224.240.14 Posted on May 30, 2007 at 05:04:42 PM by Levi

I ordered new bushings and rubbers for my 1966 Oliver 770 seat...no instructions came with the parts and now I can't for the life of me remember how I took it apart! I have a service manual however there is nothing regarding the seat in it. Any idea how to put the darn thing back together?

Re(1): seat instructions

IP: 67.2.249.48 Posted on May 30, 2007 at 08:29:51 PM by Larry Harsin

There should be pictures of the seat assembly in the Operator's Manual. Just go by the pictures. Otherwise, you can order a Parts Manual from Charles City and it will show you. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry

super 77

IP: 66.103.177.220 Posted on May 30, 2007 at 12:22:45 PM by Bob Elliott

Larry, I have the service manual for the super 77 but I don't find much on the repair of the wide front end. It is extremely sloppy on the front pivot, the rear (what I call) wishbone and the front of the wishbone also. I assume we have bushings in all, is that correct? Is this in the service manual and I'm not seeing it? Would you have part numbers and suggestions for tightening up the whole deal? Thanks for any help you can give.

Re(1): super 77

IP: 67.2.242.105 Posted on May 31, 2007 at 06:24:02 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 bushings. The one is K748B. The other is D719. The wishbones on these front ends have a habit of working loose. I try to tighten them up without welding, but sometimes they have to be welded. Larry

Oliver RC 70 engine

IP: 69.57.195.160 Posted on May 29, 2007 at 12:59:30 PM by LG Crawford

We have a 1937 Oliver Row Crop 70 that has been sitting (unstarted) for 20 years. We recently got her going again with no real difficulty, but have noticed engine oil dripping from the exhaust manifold after the engine runs for 15 minutes or so. The engine seems to run smooth on all cylinders - no missing. It ran well when is was put away 20 years ago. Could a plugged breather cause this? I would think that stuck valves or broken piston ring would make it sputter or miss on a cylinder. What do you think?

Re(1): Oliver RC 70 engine

IP: 67.2.249.19 Posted on May 29, 2007 at 05:48:12 PM by Larry Harsin

My first thought would be that maybe the breather tube might be plugged. One thing that 70's do, it put a lot of oil up to the valve train, and maybe oil is running down to the valve guides and into the manifold. Larry

fan belt

IP: 208.19.15.89 Posted on May 27, 2007 at 08:06:26 PM by Annette B.

Can you cross reference a fan belt for me. My manual lists part #53 086. Thanks,

Re(1): fan belt

IP: 67.2.248.118 Posted on May 27, 2007 at 10:24:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Your NAPA store has a cross reference. Most of the automotive or implement parts places have this reference. I don't have one. The big companies that make them, like Dayton, Gates and Goodyear, all have cross references. Larry

Tractor model

IP: 203.213.243.130 Posted on May 25, 2007 at 09:02:45 PM by Brett Stevens

Hello I have recently bought a oliver super 55 diesel tractor but have been unable to find any info about it as the specification number (15-0026) does not appear in any book at any auto dealer I ask. Could you please tell me what number I should tell them. Thanks

Re(1): Tractor model

IP: 67.2.249.29 Posted on May 25, 2007 at 11:40:29 PM by Larry Harsin

Your model is an Oliver Super 55 diesel. That is all you need to tell your parts place. You need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum by email: fchs@fiai.net There will be a small charge for the manual. Larry

Re(2): Tractor model

IP: 72.198.206.229 Posted on May 27, 2007 at 09:18:51 PM by Larry Kruse

I have a super 55 Diesel and I have found parts easy to find. Most NAPA parts stores are good if they have the manuals or a complete computer. At any parts store, you need to have parts people with experience. That is why Tom at Obrien County Implement is also very good with Oliver parts.

770 Radiator

IP: 69.205.114.103 Posted on May 24, 2007 at 07:36:11 PM by Justin

Took a sticky bath tonight spreading manure - radiator looks like I was under fire! Two or three places I have a pretty good stream coming out. How hard will it be to find a radiator for this tractor? (770 Gas) Is my best bet to try and get it re-cored? Is this a part an Agco dealer can still get, or is this an O'Brien County Implement phone call? At least I now have an excuse to wash Oliver and his spreader buddy.

Re(1): 770 Radiator

IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on May 24, 2007 at 10:36:48 PM by Larry Harsin

You can possibly get that one fixed. They would probably have to recore it. Check with your local radiator shop. I might have a used one, I'll have to check in the morning. Tom may also have a used one, also. AGCO might have a used one or possibly a new one, I don't know. Larry

3 pt control lever

IP: 72.51.243.176 Posted on May 23, 2007 at 12:45:29 PM by Mike

Hey larry, my question has to do with the 3pt control lever. While the tractor is running the control lever wants to move back automatically, and raise the lower links, if im using the bushhog i have to hold the lever in place continously to keep the right level. 1800 c gas oliver what causes this to happen and how do i fix it thanks

Re(1): 3 pt control lever

IP: 67.2.249.26 Posted on May 23, 2007 at 10:02:32 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a friction disk on the 3 pt. lever and the adjuster has come unscrewed. If the friction disk is gone, get a new replacement one before you tear into it. To fix it, remove the seat. Then, you may want to plug a hose into one of the outlets to pump the oil out of the unit before unbolting the lid. Then, unbolt the lid and remove it. Then, unbolt the forks for the remote levers and slide them out. Then, you can get to this adjuster on this friction disk. If it is in tact and not broken, adjust it up to where it should be and turn the set screw in to lock it. If you have to replace the friction disk, you will probably have to unbolt the assembly from the unit and put it on the bench to work on it. You will want to put in new seals also, if you have to take it apart. Larry

1755 diesel clutch

IP: 24.213.68.71 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 08:41:31 PM by slugger

I have a 1755 diesel that I just bought and the clutch is acting funny right now. If I push it all the way to the floor then it begins to engage the clutch and i cant get it into or out of gear. It begins to disengage at about 1/2 way off the floor and engages at the top like normal. Is this a 2 stage clutch or a hydraulic clutch or something or should I just sell it... I dont want to have to replace the clutch on this one ;(

Re(1): 1755 diesel clutch

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 10:39:39 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like something is wrong inside the clutch. It will have to be torn down. Larry

2-70 hydraulic question

IP: 216.180.198.143 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 06:30:36 PM by Todd

Can you tell me how to remove the hydraulic detents (holds valve shifted until end of cylinder travel) on my 2-70? Sorry if I don't know the correct terminology.

Re(1): 2-70 hydraulic question

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 10:37:49 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the lid on top of the hydraulic unit, and disconnect the small steel line that pressurizes the detents. Larry

Re(2): 2-70 hydraulic question

IP: 216.180.198.42 Posted on May 24, 2007 at 09:20:22 PM by Todd

Hi Larry, I see the steel line from the front of the cover to the valve assembly. Do I remove it and plug both ends or just leave them open?

Re(3): 2-70 hydraulic question

IP: 67.2.249.184 Posted on May 25, 2007 at 05:41:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove it and plug both ends. Larry

Super 55 Hydraulics

IP: 70.106.169.69 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 04:24:19 PM by Matt

I 3 point on my super 55 has been weak for the whole time I have had my tractor. I removed the cover to the hydraulics and cleaned everything and put in a new leatherbackup washer and o-ring. Also put a new seal and o-rings in the hydraulic pump. I put everything back together and still the same thing. When the tracor is cold the lift will lift anything I put on it. When it warms up, the hydraulics get weak and fall fast. I did the press test according to the manual, and had some leakage on the servo valve. From what I hear its easy to get a false reading. Any suggestions what the issue could be? The tractor has the external hydraulic hookup and I think for years it ran on remote only. I am at my wits end with it. Thanks, Matt

Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 05:57:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the external valve apart and clean it well. If that doesn't do it, you are going to have to put a rebuild kit in your pump. You can get a rebuild kit from your AGCO Dealer. Larry

oliver carburator

IP: 12.197.250.79 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 09:31:48 PM by DEREK CAMPBELL

I RECENTLY BOUGHT WHAT I BELIEVE IS A 550 (GAS) I CLEANED THE CARB. AND NOW WHEN YOU THROTTLE IT UP IT WONT STAY THROTTLED UP IT GOES BACK TO AN IDLE IF I WORK THE THROTTLE LINKAGE BY HAND THE GOVENOR HANGS UP.

Re(1): oliver carburator

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 05:54:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like something is binding or rubbing, in your throttle linkage. Larry

Oliver 1600 diesel

IP: 208.126.71.212 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 08:48:07 PM by Tom

A while back I asked you about my 1600, after I ran it on the generator for a while, I had no power steering. I got a pressure gauge and checked the pressure at one of the hydraulic outlets. It shows about 700 psi. Is the power steering on the same system as the three point and remotes? Do I not have enough pressure to run the power steering? What would you do next?

Re(1): Oliver 1600 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.249 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 09:05:04 PM by Larry Harsin

A flow divider picks off approx. 2 gal. per minute for the Power Steering. It is located on the front of your hydraulic unit. If you have only 700 lbs after the unit is warmed up, I suspect you have a worn out hydraulic pump, as the pressure should be at least 1800 lbs. First of all, I would check the pressure when the unit is cold and compare it to when the unit is warmed up. To replace the hydraulic pump, the hydraulic unit has to be removed from the tractor. Larry

770 Hydraulic Leak

IP: 216.195.144.212 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 08:03:08 PM by Nick Noble

I've got a '59 770 with a hydraulic fluid leak. When we fill the sump the hydraulic fluid runs down into the transmission, any clue if theres a seal or a plate in there that could go bad and allow the oil to run into the transmission? Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 770 Hydraulic Leak

IP: 12.226.103.141 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 08:56:03 PM by oliverequip

That is a very common problem on Olivers. There are 4 seals in the hydraulic pump that need to be replaced. Additionally, the pump centerplate could be cracked causing the leak. You will need to remove the entire hydraulic unit and then take off the pump but you have to pull out the PTO shaft before removing the hydraulic unit. You will need to dismantle the pump and check for any cracks - sometimes the centerplate cracks. Also, it is good to replace the needle bearings along with the seals in the pump too.

Re(2): 770 Hydraulic Leak

IP: 67.2.249.249 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 09:07:56 PM by Larry Harsin

That is a good answer. Larry

770 oliver

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 09:35:11 AM by Jeremy

Larry, You have been such a help in the past. My question for a 1967 770 oliver gas tractor. I am only getting about 750 lbs of pressure on the hydraulics and want to try to shim the pump. I have seen this talked about before, but am not sure where on the pump to look. It is my understanding that you can shim the pump without taking the pump off. What is the procedure for shimming the pump and how many shims do I need. Would my local agco dealer have these. Thanks in advance for your explanation,

Re(1): 770 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.249 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 09:01:13 PM by Larry Harsin

The shims for the pump are located on the base plate of the hydraulic unit, just to the left of the shift lever, facing forward. The oil has to be pumped down out of the unit before removing this relief valve. Unscrew the relief valve with a 7/8" wrench. I would put 3 or 4 shims on this. The shims go between the spring and the nut that is 7/8". The part number for the shim is K2079 at your AGCO Dealer. Your pressure should run in the 1100 - 1200 range. Larry

Oliver 1755

IP: 207.103.48.207 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 05:13:57 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - you have been a good help to use in the past. Just replace a worn sprag clutch in our 1850. Now another problem. Father-in-law out on 1755 and didn't watch water in Radiator, ran for awhile w/ low water, overheated. Now uses water, excess steam out of breather and water. Some water at bottom of crankcase when pull drain plug. What is the possible damage? Head gasket? Like to have your input before we pull down.

Re(1): Oliver 1755

IP: 67.2.240.165 Posted on May 21, 2007 at 05:51:39 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be that, or it could also be sleeve seals leaking water into the crankcase. You may have scored a piston. If so, the engine will have to be torn down and overhauled. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1755

IP: 207.103.47.151 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 06:08:23 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - If the seals on the sleeves are leaking - Is there a diagnostic test to do - to comfirm that - can we pull the pan and pressurized the coolant to see if the seals leak ? Doesn't seem to be any pressure in the Radiator- from the cylinders so this is likely what we are dealing with?

Re(3): Oliver 1755

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on May 22, 2007 at 06:01:46 PM by Larry Harsin

You can pull the pan and look around the sleeves and see if there is any water coming down. I'm pretty sure this is what you will find. Larry

770 power booster

IP: 66.67.170.244 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 03:52:08 PM by Ed

Need to re-work power booster on 770 stuck in high, how big of job to remove and repair

Re(1): 770 power booster

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 06:40:58 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is stuck in high, it is in direct. Before anything else, I'd take the cover off of the unit and check the linkage. You may have a broken fork or something on the throw-out that is causing the problem. If this doesn't help, you are going to have to pull the engine to repair it. Before you try to pull the engine out, remember to pull the long PTO shaft out of the rear. Larry

PTO removal

IP: 63.232.231.167 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 12:24:20 PM by Ned Meister

I need to repalce the seals on the 3 point hook-up shaft on my model 1800 C diesel. I can pull the assembly out about 3 inches but something is holding it from coming out any farther. Can you enlighten me on the removal proceedure?

Re(1): PTO removal

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 06:36:51 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to take out the rubber O ring in the second slot, before you can remove the PTO shaft. Larry

Re(2): PTO removal

IP: 66.140.117.165 Posted on May 23, 2007 at 08:33:24 AM by NM

Larry, I'm really going to show my ignorance here, but I have looked for the "O Ring" and can't seem to locate it. At the back end of the long shaft there is an internal snap ring. Is it supposed to be in that area of the mechanism?

Re(3): PTO removal

IP: 67.2.248.97 Posted on May 24, 2007 at 06:04:47 AM by Larry Harsin

The snap ring groove is about an inch or so behind the O ring groove. That O ring should be in there, that is why you can't get the shaft out. Larry

Re(4): PTO removal

IP: 66.140.117.165 Posted on May 24, 2007 at 06:43:46 AM by NM

Thanks for your help. The PTO has been successfully removed.

oliver 88 row crop

IP: 205.188.116.197 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 10:37:45 AM by Greg

I have an 88 that does not like to run consistantly, first thought carb,took off cleaned and reset it,no change ,next sediment bowl and gas tank, no better,now i think broken wire or on/off switch...suggestions

Re(1): oliver 88 row crop

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 06:34:46 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a bad coil wire, or a bad spark plug, bad points, bad rotor, lots of possiblities. It could even be an intake valve that hangs up occasionally, or something like that. Larry

1650 Gas

IP: 65.78.213.117 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 07:36:11 AM by David Risser

Larry sometimes the engine stops running as if you would just turn the key off. If I take the cap off and jack with the points and wires then it will run fine for a couple more feedings.

Re(1): 1650 Gas

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on May 20, 2007 at 06:30:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd try a new set of points and see if that helps. Make sure the coil wire and rotor are good. I would check the condition of the wires on the terminals on the ignition, all the way down to the coil, and make sure they are good, clean and tight. Larry

Oliver 88 gas

IP: 69.71.32.198 Posted on May 19, 2007 at 04:30:55 PM by Dennis Bah

Does the oliver 88 gas have a thermostat on the top hose from the radiator

Re(1): Oliver 88 gas

IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on May 19, 2007 at 09:43:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It has one that is in the casting on the outlet of the head. Larry

Oliver Parts availability

IP: 4.138.107.28 Posted on May 19, 2007 at 12:26:12 PM by "LK" Williams

Are oliver parts really available to the extent that a person could go farming with a 1960's Oliver?Im looking at the 1600-1800 series.If u broke half way thru baling could one get the parts fast enough? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver Parts availability

IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on May 19, 2007 at 09:42:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Parts are available for those tractors. You can usually get them as fast as they can be shipped. Larry

1850 trans. problem

IP: 207.40.85.205 Posted on May 18, 2007 at 07:51:06 AM by jim hill

im looking at a 1850 the dealer says it wont shift between the neutrals. could this be a big problem or be a easy fix. thank you larry

Re(1): 1850 trans. problem

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on May 18, 2007 at 06:27:00 PM by Larry Harsin

It has the possibility of being big trouble. Larry

1800 L.P. series C

IP: 74.93.81.193 Posted on May 17, 2007 at 09:15:03 PM by Greg

Was wondering how many l.p.'s they made? I just picked up one of these for 1600.00, I thought it was a good deal, its a 1964 model,it only has 3242 hrs. on it!

Re(1): 1800 L.P. series C

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on May 17, 2007 at 10:07:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I have no idea how many they made. Possibly the Museum in Charles City could answer your question. Email: fchs@fiai.net If it is a running tractor, I think you got a good deal. Larry

1850 Valve Gasket

IP: 152.163.101.17 Posted on May 17, 2007 at 08:44:32 PM by Colton

How much do valve gaskets cost?

Re(1): 1850 Valve Gasket

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on May 17, 2007 at 10:04:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with AG Parts First 866-264-9720. 1850 gas gaskets run approx. $20. For the Perkin's diesel, I think you could double that. Larry

1755 diesel

IP: 24.213.68.71 Posted on May 16, 2007 at 07:33:30 PM by Paul

I have the opportunity to buy a 1755 diesel with 4500 hrs and a factory cab. I heard some people say that there were problems with the 310 engine the 1755 has, what is your take on it? It runs well and has been maintainted to a T.

Re(1): 1755 diesel

IP: 67.2.242.68 Posted on May 16, 2007 at 10:03:15 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor is in good condition and you like it, go ahead and buy it. They are a sought after tractor and a nice tractor. The 310 can have their problems, but guys still like them. Larry

Installing Rear Wheels (Rims to Wheels)

IP: 75.89.21.249 Posted on May 15, 2007 at 02:11:04 PM by Bert

Good Afternoon Sir Having no knowledge of tractors and attempting to help my neighbor assemble the rear wheels on his diesel 77 row cropper I have a question. There is a large cast item that is secured to the axel. Then the tire with rim is mounted to this cast item using approx 10 bolts with some sort of a cast clip. Does this clip go on the outside of the wheel or or the inside. There are grooves on either side of the cast metal piece that is secured to the axel. Again PLEASE ACCEPT my lack of knowledge. Thanking you in advance for your time anyassistance you might provide.

Re(1): Installing Rear Wheels (Rims to Wheels)

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on May 15, 2007 at 08:21:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The clamps usually go on the outside of the rim. Larry

Re(2): Installing Rear Wheels (Rims to Wheels)

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on May 17, 2007 at 07:15:26 PM by J. Ulmer

A lot of International Harvester products used a disc wheel with clamps holding the rim on in the 50's & 60's (560's, 706, 806, ect.) You might look at some other tractor if you can't find an oliver. As a note in installation...don't overtighten one side and get your wheel "out of square" with the axle. Tighten bolts in sequence lightly around the wheel and pull it in square to the hub. I have seen them wedged ####eyed when someone tightened one bolt all the way and the opposite side didn't seat. Rolling along it would loosen and mess up bolts and cause other problems. I hope I explained this to your understanding and I don't mean it patronizingly...just took you at your word on your experience and chipped in experience working on stuff like BIG scrapers. Same principle. Good Luck!!

White 2-70 brakes

IP: 24.229.146.123 Posted on May 14, 2007 at 04:05:31 PM by Codie

Just put new brake discs on and cleaned all of the glaze off from the brakes and put four shims on each side. One side works fine the other side locks up as soon as you start to tighten up the cover even with out tightening up the adjuster. Do I need more shims? What else could be the problem? Thanks.

Re(1): White 2-70 brakes

IP: 67.2.249.156 Posted on May 14, 2007 at 09:35:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd say you need more shims. Larry

1655 gas lock up

IP: 67.142.130.20 Posted on May 12, 2007 at 06:05:38 PM by Clint Grimes

Larry, What a great site for Oliver owners and advice. Your tractors are very impressive. Here's my question: We have a 1655 gas Over/Under Hydraulic Shift. I sent my son to start it and bring it to the house. Starts fine, but the clutch won't engage. Fluid levels are good and clear. When the engine is off, I can hear an audible click or snap when I press the clutch pedal in about 3 inches. It won't make the sound again unless I let the pedal completely out. The tractor has not been acting up, and has not given us any signs of a problem. This is the first time we've run it in about 10 days due to rain. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1655 gas lock up

IP: 67.2.242.109 Posted on May 12, 2007 at 08:11:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I think maybe something broke in the pressure plate. Otherwise, the throwout bearing has worn through the fingers. You are going to have to pull the engine and hydraul out and set it on the floor and remove the hydraul from the engine, to get at the clutch. Remember to remove the long PTO drive shaft before you try to take the engine out of the tractor. You can start the tractor and leave it out of gear, so you can steer it, and tow it to the house. Larry

Hydraulic Oil on Super 88

IP: 71.50.195.29 Posted on May 12, 2007 at 03:51:44 PM by Brian Fox

Hi Larry, What weight oil should I be using in my 1955 Oliver Super 88 hydraulic system, transmission, and the rear end. And where do I drain all of this at? There are so many different drain plugs. Also, do you know of anywhere I could find an owners manual for this tractor?

Re(1): Hydraulic Oil on Super 88

IP: 67.2.242.109 Posted on May 12, 2007 at 08:05:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net You can use 10 wt. motor oil or I use med. non-foaming hydraulic oil from my Farm Supply Store in the hydraulic system. I use 90 wt. gear oil in the transmission and rear end. There are 2 drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission and the bull gear housing, to drain the trans and final drive (rear end). I don't drain the hydraulic system. I plug a hose into the hydraulic and pump it out. When you get your Operator's Manual, it will give you all of this info. Larry

hydraulic fluid

IP: 12.227.210.112 Posted on May 11, 2007 at 00:01:48 AM by brandon stuckey

What type of hydraulic fluid would a 1967 Oliver 1850 use? A friend who owns another older Oliver said to check before filling it because she actually found that hers was filled with Mineral oil and regular hydraulic fluid would burn up the pump.

Re(1): hydraulic fluid

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on May 11, 2007 at 05:31:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Use med. weight non-foaming hydraulic oil. I get it at our Farm Supply Store. Larry

1465 oliver

IP: 207.144.166.56 Posted on May 10, 2007 at 02:14:35 PM by Terry Tate

I have a 1465 that i baught at an auction the motor wasnt running so i tore it down and rebuilt the engine.i have it running now but it is missing on two of the cylinders, it smokes and misses pretty bad when you first start it up but the more you run it the better it gets,i can loosen up the injector lines and it quits smoking on the cylinder that i take loose..i thought that it might be comtaminated fuel so i change it, no diffrence,changed the feul filter,bleed the system numerous times...still the same result so i thought i might have bad injectors so to check that i swapt them around but no change i looked to see if maybe the springs in the pump were broke but they werent...the only thing that i havent done is do a compression check and i am about to do that but i was just wondering what your thoughts might be.It had been setting a while im sure.so do you think something in the pump maybe stuck,or maybe i have a blown head gasket i also had the head rebuilt... your opinion please

Re(1): 1465 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on May 11, 2007 at 05:30:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The most common thing with diesels acting that way, is low compression. But you overhauled it, so that should have been covered. If the injectors have been tested, that should be covered, so that leaves the injection pump. Take it to a pump repair shop and have it put on a test stand and see if it is working correctly. Larry

fuel pump

IP: 74.140.110.206 Posted on May 9, 2007 at 05:13:28 PM by Matt

We're in the process restoring a 66 1850 gas. We replaced the factory fuel pump with an electric in line 12v pump. We caped off the hole were the old pump was located. Is there any thing else we should do before we run it. Thanks, Matt

Re(1): fuel pump

IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on May 10, 2007 at 01:52:15 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. It should work fine. Larry

770 backhoe reverser

IP: 75.69.97.154 Posted on May 8, 2007 at 01:27:26 PM by Brion McMullan

Larry, My torque converter broke free on my 1958 770 backhoe. I replaced it with the newer torque converter. I had to move my motor mounts and shim between the reverser and the engine. Now the tractor runs for a few minutes, oil warms up and then I can't go anywhere. Can I adjust the through the spring tentions and get her to keep her pressure up?

Re(1): 770 backhoe reverser

IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on May 10, 2007 at 01:50:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You should get a Service Manual for the Reverso-torque from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Gas tank drain plug leaks

IP: 71.48.75.24 Posted on May 7, 2007 at 06:56:06 PM by Rod

Hi Larry, First I wanted to say thanks for all my questions that you've answered so far. It's wonderful what you do for the Oliver community. I recently bought a Super 55 HC and due to a good bit of grit in the tank, I removed the drain plug and flushed everything out. When I replaced the plug and filled the tank up, it began to leak slowly. As the weather has warmed, the leak has become fast enough to keep one side of the engine wet with gas. I removed the plug and tried teflon tape from my plumbing supplies. First I tried about 2 wraps of tape, then 4, then 6, but I still have a leak. Is there something better to use than teflon tape?

Re(1): Gas tank drain plug leaks

IP: 67.2.249.161 Posted on May 7, 2007 at 09:39:48 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have to take the tank to a radiator repair shop and have it repaired. Take it to a car wash first and clean it THOROUGHLY with hot soapy water. Then, maybe you can find someone to repair it. Otherwise, you will have to get a different one. Tim Smith might have a used tank. Email: smittytractor@aol.com Larry

Re(2): Gas tank drain plug leaks

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on May 8, 2007 at 10:24:11 AM by J. Ullmer

I had a diesel tank with the threads corroded so thin that when I removed the plug and went back it would not seal with friction either. The solvent action of the gas precludes thread dope and tape gets thin so I found a plug with a shoulder and added an o-ring and saved the old tank and stopped the leak. Any port in a storm!! Good Luck. Jerry

Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 12.189.32.36 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 09:28:32 AM by Greg M

Larry, I have been working on the PTO assy on my Oliver 88 as the overcenter clutch had not been working right. I had removed the shaft assy so I could remove the hydraulic pump assy for new seals. Have reinstalled hydraulic unit and reinstalled shaft assy. When I tighen the three bolts that hold the shaft bearing flange at the rear of tractor, I am 1/8" short of mating with casting. Can tighten bolts up to draw the bearing flange to the casting but I bind up the clutch assy and cannot rotate PTO output shaft. When I back off the bolts, then the PTO output shaft will turn by hand. I did tighten the hydraulic unit down to top of trans housing before installing this shaft, should I have left this loose to allow hydraulic unit and shaft to adjust? I would have thought the splines on the PTO shaft were long enough so it wouldn't come up tight on hydraulic pump splines. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Re(1): Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 05:21:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that when you installed your pump after repairing it, you may have installed the pump gear backwards. The splines are longer one way than the other. That may be causing your problem. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 12.189.32.37 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 07:35:51 PM by Greg M

Larry, I think I put the pump gear in the right way. Part of the spline shaft inside does not have splines, this part is towards the rear of the tractor. I thought if it was backwards, the PTO shaft would stick out of tractor farther than the 1/8" gap I have. If having it backwards only changes length a small amount, then that may be my problem. Does it still sound like I have a pump gear backwards?

Re(3): Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 67.2.249.161 Posted on May 7, 2007 at 09:42:30 PM by Larry Harsin

It's one of 2 things. It's either having the hydraulic pump gear backwards, or it might be the alignment of the PTO housing where it lines up with the tractor rear main frame. If that alignment is not perfect, the front bearing on the PTO will not match up right. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 12.189.32.36 Posted on May 9, 2007 at 07:42:23 AM by Greg M

Larry, Thanks for the info. I pulled the PTO assy back out of tractor and removed hydraulic unit and then reinstalled PTO assy. Still had problem with PTO clutch assy not going in far enough. Removed PTO housing and then tried PTO assy into it. It did fit up this time. I pulled the PTO housing off tractor to replace PTO shaft seal and gaskets earlier and apparently did not get holes lined up. Have everything installed and everything in PTO works correctly now. Thanks again for the advice!!!!

Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 24.197.199.23 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 01:09:40 PM by Blake

I have a oliver 88, when pressing the clutch in and when releasing, the clutch shaft has a wobble to it, i checked the coupler, and its ok, but i did notice that when i had it apart that if you push the clutch shaft into the pilot bearing, the slot to put the bolts in sticks out of the coupler...should it do this, becuase i think my wobble is that the shaft isnt sitting in the pilot bearing...do i have the wrong coupker...or clutch shaft or...any advise?

Re(1): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 216.46.211.228 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 06:05:49 PM by rrlund

Don't want to steal Larrys thunder,but this is a clasic case of a bad pilot bushing. There is not a pilot bearing in those,only a brass bushing inside the hub in the center of the flywheel.

Re(2): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 24.197.199.23 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 07:27:32 PM by BlakeG

Actually it does have a pilot bearing, trust me im not some yahoo, becuase i just put a new one in!

Re(3): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 67.2.242.125 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 09:28:59 PM by Larry Harsin

That clutch shaft may be wrong. When you put the ball bearing pilot in, it requires a different shaft. The shaft is about the same length, but it has a different end on it to match up with the bearing. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 216.46.210.142 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 01:35:54 PM by rrlund

Larry,was a ball bearing pilot standard on the later 88s or something,or was it an update? I've never seen one,but then that's why I read these things is to learn.

Re(5): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 05:36:18 PM by Larry Harsin

It was standard on the later 88's. There was a change-over pkg. so that you could change your bushing type pilot over to a ball bearing type. The pkg. consisted of the drive hub with the pilot bearing, longer flywheel bolts and the new style clutch shaft. Larry

Re(6): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 24.197.199.23 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 08:15:28 PM by Blake

I when i pulled it apart to install a new clutch it had a bearing in it already and the shaft fits tight in the bearing, it just seems the shaft or coupler is too short, is there a chance someone had installed one of a different model that was shorter, or are they all the same?

Re(7): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 67.2.248.212 Posted on May 7, 2007 at 05:58:26 AM by Larry Harsin

As far as I know, they are all the same length. There should be a number stamped on that hollow shaft. It should be a K579A. Larry

oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 71.215.128.53 Posted on May 3, 2007 at 02:24:01 PM by ernie firestone

does this tractor have a differential lock? would be handy when plowing... and it is working good even without the lock...

Re(1): oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 67.2.249.234 Posted on May 3, 2007 at 09:25:02 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It does not have a differential lock. Larry

Oliver 1450 injectors

IP: 70.100.225.222 Posted on May 2, 2007 at 04:40:42 PM by Herb

I need one injector for my 1450 i am haveing troble finding one i was told the injectors from a 1465 are the same if not where would i get one thank you

Re(1): Oliver 1450 injectors

IP: 67.2.249.63 Posted on May 2, 2007 at 10:44:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200 Website: www.centralfuelinjection.com Larry

Super 55 hydraulic lever

IP: 66.109.153.81 Posted on May 1, 2007 at 08:37:37 AM by Donald Buelke

The hydraulic control lever "free-falls" and must be held at the stop or held by hand. I was attempting to install a new friction disk, but I can't remove the friction plate from the control shaft. Removing the lock nut and trying to pry or unscrew it has been unsuccessful and I don't want to damage it by trying too hard. From what I see in the manual, it should be removable externally. I suspect the alloy friction plate has fused to the steel control shaft over time, but I'm uncertain if it should unscrew or pry off. I've tried heating it with a torch without success, too. Suggestions appreciated.

Re(1): Super 55 hydraulic lever

IP: 67.2.249.86 Posted on May 1, 2007 at 05:06:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Time and corrosion have made it difficult to deal with. I heated mine up and tightened it up and let it go at that. If you want to get it apart, you might have to take the whole unit off of the tractor and that would be a JOB! Possibly you could cut a slot in the friction disc so that you could slide a new one in behind. You'd have to cut it to slide it over the shaft. This way you wouldn't have to take it apart. Larry

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