88 engine

IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 09:06:46 PM by jack

Have a 50 model 88 sn132471c88f will this be a oliver block or a waukisha how do you tell the difference

Re(1): 88 engine

IP: 67.142.130.49 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 10:00:03 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

According to Herb Morrell's book on Oliver, starting with the 70 tractor, engines were a cooperative effort between Oliver and Waukesha. Oliver cast the blocks in Charles City. Using 2 trucks, 1 in Iowa, the other in Wisconsin, they would meet in Prairie du Chien and swap trailers. The WI truck would take the trailer full of raw castings to Waukesha in Milwaukee, the IA truck would return to Charles with a load of completed engines ready for the tractor assembly line.

Re(2): 88 engine

IP: 75.104.183.148 Posted on June 1, 2008 at 06:17:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Brian's info is correct except that it started with the 60, not the 70. All of the 70's had Continental engines. Larry

1800 Steering

IP: 69.92.97.142 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:02:29 PM by Dave

Last year I overhauled an 1800A diesel. It has a newer model hydramotor that was put in sometime. It will turn left like it should but is very difficult to turn right. I had replaced all the seals in the steering cylinder and took apart the hydramotor and replaced the bearings and seals in it as well. It did the same thing before I overhauled it. Thanks!

Re(1): 1800 Steering

IP: 75.104.161.219 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:52:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Your results are typical. I have had the same problem. I hate to tell you, but you are going to have to replace the hydramotor. If you can't find one that is like what you have, you will have to get a Char-Lynn hydramotor from your AGCO dealer. Larry

1968 1250 Oliver Gas Tractor

IP: 75.190.142.147 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 01:03:24 PM by Jeff Dellinger

I have a hard time finding parts or info on the 1250 series tractor that I have. Is it a series by itself or is it classfied with another series?

Re(1): 1968 1250 Oliver Gas Tractor

IP: 75.104.161.219 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:49:13 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1250 was built for Oliver in Italy by Fiat. It is sort of an "orphan". The 1250 gas is hard to find parts for. Call Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9934. They gave some things. Larry

Oliver Serial #

IP: 64.30.5.39 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 07:39:00 AM by Bill Charbonneau

Looking at an Oliver tractor, serial #19157-518 Spec# 1____0005. I cant seem to find any info on this tractor. Can you help? It looks like at 55 or 66. And probably made in the 50's.

Re(1): Oliver Serial #

IP: 75.104.161.219 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:46:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor is a Super 55 built in 1955. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC- Torque Specs

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on May 27, 2008 at 08:33:44 PM by Terry Allen

Need specs for manifolds and valve cover. Can't find in repair manual (I&T). What is a good source for this information?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- Torque Specs

IP: 75.104.161.219 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:44:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't tighten the valve cover bolts using a torque wrench. Just barely snug them down and then run the tractor a few hours and retighten them gently as too much tightening will distort the valve cover. I don't go more than 25 ft. lbs. of torque on them. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 Gas RC- Torque Specs

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 09:09:25 PM by Terry Allen

Do you mean 25 ft.lbs. max on valve covers? What about the manifold bolts?

Re(3): Super 77 Gas RC- Torque Specs

IP: 75.104.182.154 Posted on May 29, 2008 at 10:16:28 PM by Larry Harsin

No. Sandy didn't type that answer correctly. The 25 ft. lbs. is on the manifold bolts. Sorry. Sandy

Re(4): Super 77 Gas RC- Torque Specs

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on May 30, 2008 at 04:57:07 PM by Terry Allen

The manual indicates the head bolts should be torqued to 92-100 ft-lbs. It does not specify torquing sequence. Can you advise sequence? Can you advise a source for other torque requirements?

Re(5): Super 77 Gas RC- Torque Specs

IP: 75.104.182.154 Posted on May 30, 2008 at 09:10:21 PM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. Torque them in 10 lb stages and start in the center and work to the outside. You should get a regular Oliver S77 Service Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 880 hydraulic pump

IP: 216.248.68.198 Posted on May 27, 2008 at 04:58:25 PM by Tyler Stigge

A couple of months ago, I posted my concerns about my '59 880's hydraulic pump. I was in the middle of replacing its clutch at the time, and was wondering if it was time to replace it. You advised me to finish reassembling the tractor and check its hydraulic pressure. I have now accomplished the rebuild, and have measured the output pressure of the pump. It is 750 PSI. This is far below the 1200-1500 PSI that you stated is a normal output. Can you advise me on how to bring this pressure up?

Re(1): Oliver 880 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.161.219 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:39:45 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to add shims to the relief valve on the hydraulic unit. The part number for the shim is K2079. I would order 5 of those shims from your AGCO dealer. When you want to adjust the relief valve, drain the unit, then unscrew the relief valve from the relief plate and pull out the spring. If the plunger doesn't come, you'll have to use a magnet to get it. Do not start your tractor if the plunger has stayed in there, as it may wind up in your pump and wreck it. The shims go on the back side of the spring. If shimming the relief valve doesn't get the pressure up, then you have a problem somewhere else. It could be a worn pump or leakage in the control valves etc. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 880 hydraulic pump

IP: 216.248.68.198 Posted on June 9, 2008 at 09:26:02 PM by Tyler Stigge

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. It has been an amazing help to me.

old style 88 standard

IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on May 27, 2008 at 12:06:09 PM by Jeremy

Hi Larry, I apologize if this post gets long winded. I have an old style 88 standard and have some questions. I want to know if I have the right voltage regulator and generator. I have a suspiscion that the generator and regulator aren't correct to the tractor. Is the voltage regulator supposed to be mounted under the gas tank? The one on mine is. The reason I ask this is because I am having electrical problems. I bought the tractor not running and the battery was totally corroded, but hooked up 12 volt negative ground. Isn't it supposed to be 12 volt positive ground? If the generator is hooked up I get a direct short arc and can't even connect the battery cables. If I unhook the generator wire I can hook up the battery cables, start and run the tractor just fine with no short. If I have to replace the generator I want to get the correct set-up along with the voltage regulator. How do I tell if it is the right generator and regulator. Can generators cause this type of short even though the tractor is off? What changes do I need to make to put it back to 12 positive ground other than changing the battery connections? I apologize for the length. If you can help in any way I appreciate it.

Re(1): old style 88 standard

IP: 75.104.161.219 Posted on May 28, 2008 at 08:33:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Originally, the voltage regulator was not located under the gas tank. It was located on the generator. The tractor was originally built with a positive ground system. Your regulator is probably shorted. This tractor was originally built with a 6 volt system. You can use the same generator that would be used on an 88 diesel and a regulator to match it. Delco has 3 different numbers for generators that will work in your tractor. They are 11000953, 1101779, 1101775. The numbers for regulators that will work are 1118306 or 1118791. If you can't find any of these in your area, give me a call. 712-362-2966. You may want to get a new wiring harness from Korves Bros. if your's isn't good. 618-939-6681. Larry

1850 fluid leak

IP: 98.223.157.11 Posted on May 26, 2008 at 05:08:08 PM by Noel Putman

Larry, I put the cover back on the 1850 that I asked you about a few weeks ago. I have a leak where the coupler transfers power from the hydrapower to the rear section of the tractor. Seems like fluid is coming out there and being flung around by the coupler chain that connects the two sprockets. It is not hydrapower fluid but coming from the rear of the tractor. Is there a seal in there, and how do I get to it to replace it?

Re(1): 1850 fluid leak

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on May 26, 2008 at 09:10:42 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a seal on the input shaft. The engine and the hydra power have to be removed before you can replace it. Check and make sure that you don't have a leak on a steering line in there and then the coupler chain is throwing that around. Larry

Overheating in 1655 gas

IP: 72.56.106.0 Posted on May 25, 2008 at 04:53:21 PM by Clint Grimes

I have a later model 1655 HydraShift Gas. This winter we replaced the clutch & pressure plate and put her back together. Ever since we started her back up she is overheating under load. It takes about 30-40 minutes, but it eventually overheats. We replaced the thermostat. We had the radiator boiled and cleaned out. We replaced the water pump and the belt. We checked and set the timing. Where do I need to go from here?

Re(1): Overheating in 1655 gas

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on May 25, 2008 at 08:19:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Does the tractor actually get hot and boil? If not, you may have a bad sender or a bad gauge. Larry

Re(2): Overheating in 1655 gas

IP: 72.56.106.0 Posted on May 25, 2008 at 10:52:16 PM by clint grimes

Yes, she'll get hot and start to boil after 30-40 minutes of work like mowing. The sender is good.

Re(3): Overheating in 1655 gas

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on May 26, 2008 at 05:28:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what else to say. Larry

Re(4): Overheating in 1655 gas

IP: 67.142.130.40 Posted on May 26, 2008 at 04:32:56 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Put a new radiator cap on it. In the automotive world they need pressure on the cooling system to keep from boiling and then overheating. Once it starts to boil the steam bubbles just aggravate it. Pressure raises the boiling point. From there, find someone with a block tester to see if you have combustion gases leaking into the coolant.

60 ring & pinion

IP: 67.142.130.24 Posted on May 25, 2008 at 09:19:29 AM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

I'm thinking of swapping the final drive ring and pinion in my 60 RC for a set from a from a standard tread tractor. The intention is more road speed for tractor rides. Have you ever done this? I don't want to make the tractor unusable otherwise. Just want to keep up with those Farmalls

Re(1): 60 ring & pinion

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on May 25, 2008 at 08:16:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I have not done it, but I think it will work fine. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC- Valve Cover Leaks

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on May 23, 2008 at 04:01:40 PM by Terry Allen

What procedures do you recommend to seal this unit. Mine appears to have silicone on the gasket and around the retaining bolts, but it still leaks.

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- Valve Cover Leaks

IP: 75.104.188.215 Posted on May 24, 2008 at 02:12:10 PM by Larry Harsin

The valve cover may be sprung and may not be sitting properly on the head. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 Gas RC- Valve Cover Leaks

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on May 24, 2008 at 10:00:28 PM by Terry Allen

Thanks. Should I check the surface that mates to the head with a straight edge? If sprung, what is the best procedure to straighten? Do you recommend silicone or other sealant to get a reliable seal, even with an unsprung cover?

Re(3): Super 77 Gas RC- Valve Cover Leaks

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on May 25, 2008 at 08:18:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You can set the valve cover on a flat surface and check it that way also. Yes. I recommend silicone. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC- battery Cables

IP: 69.208.9.233 Posted on May 23, 2008 at 03:58:24 PM by Terry Allen

Were the original battery cables covered in a woven cloth sheath? How about the selonid to starter cable? Was color was the sheath?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- battery Cables

IP: 75.104.188.215 Posted on May 24, 2008 at 02:05:03 PM by Larry Harsin

On some of the earlier ones they were cloth, but when they went from the green wheels to the red wheels, there was a plain black plastic cover that had been painted green. Same way on the solenoid to starter cable. Larry

550 diesel 1963

IP: 71.226.129.7 Posted on May 22, 2008 at 08:56:47 PM by ROY FISCHER

Larry;Can I remove the pinion & shaft without spliting the tractor & how to get the adjusting nut loose from the clamping nut,or do I need to split the outer nut.

Re(1): 550 diesel 1963

IP: 75.104.188.215 Posted on May 24, 2008 at 01:59:51 PM by Larry Harsin

o. You have to split the tractor. You need to get a Shop Manual to tell you what to do. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Also, the right hand brake assembly has to be removed to allow the differential to be slid over so you can remove the bevel pinion. Larry

Oliver 88 heating up

IP: 70.184.229.3 Posted on May 21, 2008 at 09:37:37 PM by Greg

I have a Oliver 88 Diesel that wants to always run on the warm/hot line of the gauge. Doesn't matter if I am pulling something or just driving the tractor. I think the tractor should be running cooler than indicated. Have boiled out radiator and cleaned screen, no difference. I believe the thermostat needs replaced but the one on my tractor is attached to a rod in the radiator cast iron neck and not sure how to replace it. The parts book does not show this attached with rod. Any ideas how it comes apart?

Re(1): Oliver 88 heating up

IP: 75.104.188.215 Posted on May 24, 2008 at 01:54:07 PM by Larry Harsin

On an 88 there are 3 bolts hold the thermostat housing onto the head. Remove the bolts and loosen the hose clamps and remove the housing off of the head and you will find the thermostat. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 heating up

IP: 216.171.139.84 Posted on May 29, 2008 at 12:18:39 PM by Greg

I know what you are saying as I have had the housing off in the past. However, the thermostat stays with the housing and appears to be held to the housing with a rod. I cannot remove thermostat from housing to replace. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.

Re(3): Oliver 88 heating up

IP: 75.104.183.148 Posted on June 1, 2008 at 06:22:11 AM by Larry Harsin

You have something different than anything I have seen. You may need to get a different thermostat housing. I have them if you want one, give me a call 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver plow

IP: 24.56.209.252 Posted on May 20, 2008 at 08:42:15 AM by Ed Whitford

I have a 2 bottom Oliver plow that I would like to fix up & paint the problem is I have no idea as to the correct colors of the plow. It is all steel with just the 2 wheels up front/center of the mold board in front. It has no trailing wheel. The wheels are of the all steel spoke wheel type not rubber. It has the Oliver name cast onto the disk supports in front of the mold boards along with several serial numbers but I am unable to make any of them out.

Re(1): Oliver plow

IP: 75.104.183.95 Posted on May 21, 2008 at 05:11:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I honestly don't know what color that should be. It could be red or green. Check with Sherry Schaefer, Editor of Oliver Heritage magazine. Email Sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

1850 clutch

IP: 24.245.55.1 Posted on May 20, 2008 at 07:47:03 AM by Mike

The clutch on my Oliver 1850 engages way at the top of pedal travel.Is there an internal adjustment on this clutch? the tractor has a diesel engine with hydrapower drive.

Re(1): 1850 clutch

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on May 21, 2008 at 04:45:15 AM by Don

mine does the same thing never did find out why but it works.

Re(2): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.104.183.148 Posted on June 1, 2008 at 06:24:41 AM by Larry Harsin

There is an adjustment on the clutch rod that will give you more free travel. Check in your Operator's Manual for more detailed info. This is the only adjustment to be made without completely dismantling the whole tractor. Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 72.251.64.46 Posted on May 20, 2008 at 06:52:01 AM by corre k

I been noticing a high speed flutter after 2200 to 2400 it futters if slow dowm below this it is fine seems like not enough fuel every heard of this any help is great thankyou in advange

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.183.53 Posted on July 1, 2008 at 06:24:03 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be injectors or it ould be something else. I'd check the fuel system first and make sure it is getting good fuel supply. If that all checks out, it might be an injector that is not quite right, or it could be something in the injection pump. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC

IP: 76.211.11.81 Posted on May 19, 2008 at 09:13:37 AM by Terry Allen

Can you advise if the gas cap, radiator cap and fan blades were painted green? Were the raised "Oliver" letters on the intake manifold painted a different color?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC

IP: 75.104.188.120 Posted on May 20, 2008 at 00:01:01 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Those things were painted green. The intake and exhaust manifolds were painted with "high heat" aluminum or silver. The letters were the same as the rest of the manifold. Larry

Super 55 front wheel shimmy

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on May 18, 2008 at 06:33:53 PM by Larry Kruse

Larry, Is there a method to adjust the front steering on a Super 55 Oliver to prevent the front wheels from shimming at high speed. If I slow down it will stop until a hit another bump. I do have front wheel weights on the wheels. How much tow in should the steering have?

Re(1): Super 55 front wheel shimmy

IP: 75.105.52.232 Posted on May 19, 2008 at 05:53:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd try the toe-in about 1/2" and see if that helps. Sometimes, the tread design of the tire makes it shimmy. So, you could try a different design. The adjustment of the steering gear box may also be a factor. (Adjust the sectors so there is less free-play) The sectors are adjusted by doing the right hand first and then the left hand. Larry

Super 55 Transmission

IP: 70.105.64.242 Posted on May 18, 2008 at 12:56:24 PM by Matt Kane

Larry, I posted a little while back about a noise I had in 2nd and 4th gear. I found its a bad gear missing 3 teeth on the output gear. Is there any way to remove to remove the top set of gears without splitting the tractor? If I need to split is it a difficult job?

Re(1): Super 55 Transmission

IP: 75.105.52.232 Posted on May 19, 2008 at 05:48:33 AM by Larry Harsin

You should get a Shop Manual from Charles City. 641-228-1099. The I&T Shop Manual is number is 0-11 You will have to split the tractor. The right brake housing will have to be removed so that the differential and ring gear can be slid to the right. Larry

oliver dozer

IP: 66.82.9.55 Posted on May 16, 2008 at 04:45:00 PM by wayne zuccarello

Hey Larry. I have a chance to purchase a good running 1958 Oliver bulldozer with a 6cyl flathead gas engine with 200 hrs on rebuild for $3500. It has an aftermarket 3 way hyd. blade. and rear pto. Sprockets, rollers and bushings show very little wear. I would like to know if I can find parts that I may need for it, and if that price is a fair value before I make the deal. Also would like to know if there are any particular weaknesses or problems with this tractor to look for.

Re(1): oliver dozer

IP: 75.105.52.241 Posted on May 16, 2008 at 10:59:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You should talk to Landis Zimmerman about this. He is more a crawler expert than I. Landis has a Parts and Service for Oliver and Cletrac Crawlers. He will know about availability of parts etc. It sounds to me like it is a fair price. Landis' phone: 717-738-2573. Larry

Serial numbers

IP: 70.226.195.189 Posted on May 14, 2008 at 09:08:04 PM by Clay McNaughton

I'm new to the restoration hobby. I've acquired an 88 Oliver tractor which is in fairly good condition. I got some metal work with it but I can't determine if it is a fleet line or not due to both sets of metalwork I recieved. I'm also not sure if it is a Super 88 or a standard. Where is the serial number plate so I can determine the year, etc. of the tractor? Also, what years did Oliver stop using the red paint on the wheels and start using Clover White? Thanks.

Re(1): Serial numbers

IP: 75.105.50.154 Posted on May 14, 2008 at 10:07:02 PM by Larry Harsin

All fleetline Olivers had red wheels. Beginning in the fall of 1954, all of the Supers had green wheels. The last 2 years of production of the Supers (1957 & 1958) had red wheels. The Clover White wheels came with the 3 digit tractors in the fall of 1958. We about have to know what model Oliver your tractor is to pinpoint the year with the serial number. Some of them have the same numbers. Send us the serial number anyway, and we'll see what we can do. A picture would work well, also. Larry

Re(2): Serial numbers

IP: 96.230.141.114 Posted on May 15, 2008 at 08:55:58 PM by Clay McNaughton

Where is the serial number located on an Oliver 88 tractor? Thanks!

Re(3): Serial numbers

IP: 75.105.50.154 Posted on May 16, 2008 at 05:56:09 AM by Larry Harsin

On the earlier 88's, it is on the transmission housing ahead of the right hand brake. There should be a tag there. On the later 88's, it is on the lower left side of the dash. Larry

1650 hydraulics

IP: 144.160.5.25 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 05:03:29 PM by paul van buren

Is that solenoid the little black switch inside under th seat assembly? Last winter I took the seat assembly off and replaced a little black switch.Switch and wires inside lever are OK.

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:40:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is the solenoid you use when you have the hydra-lectric cords hooked up to hydra-lectric cylinders. This has no purpose unless you have hydra-lectric cylinders and have them operative. Larry

1951 Oliver 77

IP: 216.138.41.39 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 01:11:43 PM by dwayne

hydraulic oil leaking into transmission.

Re(1): 1951 Olliver 77

IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:37:33 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic unit will have to be removed from the tractor. Take the pump apart and check for a cracked center plate and replace the seals and the bearings if needed. Larry

1949 77 RC

IP: 72.228.241.52 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 12:34:58 PM by Joe Streb

I just finished restoring my grandpas 77 and after driving it up and down the road about 9 miles worth i notice what seams to be gear oil leaking out from behind the brake cover (band brakes) and now the break wont work. Is there a seal in there that is leaking? and what do you have to do to fix it? Your help would be great thank you.

Re(1): 1949 77 RC

IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:36:01 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be one of 2 things. There's an O ring where the nut holds the brake drum on, that could be bad. Otherwise, the seal behind the brake drum could be leaking. Also, check the oil level in the differential and make sure it is not over-full. Larry

3 point hitch

IP: 98.222.172.202 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 11:55:41 AM by Matt

On our 1850 gas the three point will raise just fine with or without a load but will seetle about 3 inches then will raise right back up. It will do this with or with out a load at any position. This seamed to happen all the sudden. Any ideas?

Re(1): 3 point hitch

IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:33:37 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be in the top front part of the servo valve, there is a little ball check. Sometimes, that ball check gets stuck in a spring and it doesn't seat. It's stuck back in the spring. Larry

Re(2): 3 point hitch

IP: 165.138.171.140 Posted on May 14, 2008 at 10:48:12 AM by Matt

I read you need to drain the hyd unit before you take the top of the hyd control unit off. It says to use type A transmission fluid in the unit, what do you recommend?

Re(3): 3 point hitch

IP: 75.105.50.154 Posted on May 14, 2008 at 10:09:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Drain the hydraulic. Type A will work, however, I use med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry

Re(4): 3 point hitch

IP: 165.138.171.140 Posted on May 23, 2008 at 09:01:47 AM by Matt

Thanks Larry, Your advise was right on the money, works great now.

1850 hyd pump

IP: 98.223.157.11 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 04:20:17 AM by Noel Putman

Larry, My Hyd pump was dumping hyd fluid into the final drive compartment. The agco dealer told me the hyd pump was leaking. I pulled out the pump but noticed that the brass elbow off the pipe from the pump that directs flow up through the hyd cover was cracked from a previous owner. Would that pressure inside the hyd compartment force hyd fluid down into the final drive?

Re(1): 1850 hyd pump

IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:30:39 PM by Larry Harsin

It could possibly do that. I would repair it. Larry

1900GM

IP: 209.83.12.22 Posted on May 10, 2008 at 08:47:27 PM by Tim

What would be the best way to install power steering and also keep it close to a stock setup.

Re(1): 1900GM

IP: 75.104.188.115 Posted on May 10, 2008 at 10:10:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I would try to use a Char-Lynn application. You could get your oil from the hydraulic system to run the Char-Lynn. I think you would have to mount the Char-Lynn under the fuel tank to make it work. Larry

Re(2): 1900GM

IP: 209.83.12.22 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 03:58:50 PM by Tim

Does the Char-Lynn system your refering to use a rotary valve in the steering shaft and a assist ram between the tie rod ends, But still keeps the original steering gear. Or is the steer gear replaced or aliminated?

Re(3): 1900GM

IP: 75.105.52.186 Posted on May 11, 2008 at 06:28:58 PM by Larry Harsin

The Char-Lynn is a torque motor that you can put under the fuel tank. Larry

Re(4): 1900GM

IP: 209.83.12.22 Posted on May 16, 2008 at 06:43:56 PM by Tim

Do you know where I could get one are they still made or are they a used part only?

Re(5): 1900GM

IP: 75.105.52.241 Posted on May 16, 2008 at 11:08:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with some of the Salvage Yards about a Char-Lynn Torque Motor. That would be the simplest way. Here are a couple: Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543, Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304. Larry

Super 77 Gas Manifold Pipe

IP: 76.211.17.37 Posted on May 10, 2008 at 08:47:51 AM by Terry Allen

Based on your recommendation got one from Ag Parts First; however it needs to be cut to length. The one on my tractor extends 8.25" above the manifold with a thin sleeve, 1" wide at the top. The new pipe does not have the sleeve; is it necessary? Is the 8.25" length above the manifold correct? The top of the pipe is slightly below the opening in the hood.

Re(1): Super 77 Gas Manifold Pipe

IP: 75.104.188.115 Posted on May 10, 2008 at 10:08:47 PM by Larry Harsin

It doesn't need that sleeve. I believe I would like to have the pipe an inch longer than the 8.25". I think I would like it to come out through that opening in the hood. Larry

wiring diagram

IP: 72.251.77.177 Posted on May 8, 2008 at 10:51:23 PM by Chris Aman

I am restoring a 1949 Oliver 77 standard that has the waukesha 6 cylinder engine. I am looking for the wiring diagram for the ignition system from the ignition switch,the voltage regulator and coil. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do not know where the power source should start to activate the switch and coil to produce spark for the distributor. There is not a power lead from the starter button to the ignition switch, as it is now wired. Am i missing a wire link? This tractor sat unused for several years, and the wires of course are missing and corroded. Thank you.

Re(1): wiring diagram

IP: 75.104.190.34 Posted on May 9, 2008 at 10:30:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. You should have one anyway, and there is a wiring diagram in it. Call them at 641-228-1099. They cost about $25. Larry

Turbo

IP: 209.34.120.31 Posted on May 8, 2008 at 12:42:20 PM by Levi Boehringer

Would it hurt, to put a small turbo on an oliver with over 5,000 hours and a fresh rebuild consisting of a new head sleeves and pistons?

Re(1): Turbo

IP: 75.104.190.34 Posted on May 9, 2008 at 10:27:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it would hurt anything particularly. I don't know how it would work out, though. Larry

waukesha engines

IP: 209.34.120.31 Posted on May 8, 2008 at 12:36:32 PM by Levi Boehringer

What are some common upgrades to a waukesha in an oliver 1650 diesel?

Re(1): waukesha engines

IP: 75.104.190.34 Posted on May 9, 2008 at 10:25:31 PM by Larry Harsin

There are no common upgrades on a 1650 diesel, that I am aware of. Larry

Oliver 88

IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on May 8, 2008 at 11:33:58 AM by jack

just started a overhaul of an oliver 88 sn# 132471c88f piston bore 3.75 stamped on pistons a94f stamped on sleeves 225 a 4 what year model do i have and are these stock pistons and sleeves

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 75.104.190.34 Posted on May 9, 2008 at 10:24:01 PM by larry Harsin

If it is a Fleetline 88, those are overbore pistons. They are the ones that a S88 would come with. Your 88 was built in 1950 and it originally came with 3.5" pistons. Larry

1550 Hydraulics

IP: 209.213.24.224 Posted on May 7, 2008 at 07:22:56 PM by Dale Koscher

My 1550 3 pt. hitch will raise but, not lower. The book says the valve is sticking but gives no solution. Can you give me a starting point? Thanks

Re(1): 1550 Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.190.34 Posted on May 9, 2008 at 10:20:47 PM by Larry Harsin

There is probably a problem in the servo valve. Possibly the snap ring that holds the lowering spool is out of it. It might be apart in there. Larry

1953 77 row crop

IP: 69.129.145.19 Posted on May 6, 2008 at 05:29:35 PM by jim lowery

I recently bought this tractor and the pto will not disengage. i also need a fuel injection line for cylinder number 6

Re(1): 1953 77 row crop

IP: 75.104.191.34 Posted on May 7, 2008 at 03:27:17 AM by Larry Harsin

You probably need some new clutch disks or possibly a center plate. Also, the little springs that spread everything apart, when you use the clutch, may be gone. If you need parts, contact your AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

single acting cylinders

IP: 65.73.52.211 Posted on May 6, 2008 at 10:31:58 AM by tom

can a person use a single acting cylinder and the 3pt hitch at the same time(like on a disc mower) with a 1750 diesel? 1755 diesel? 1850 gas?

Re(1): single acting cylinders

IP: 75.104.191.34 Posted on May 7, 2008 at 03:24:25 AM by Larry Harsin

You can try it and it will probably work, but it may not. If it doesn't work, give me a call. 712-362-2966. I will be gone till Fri. evening. 712-362-2966 Larry

1850 gear oil level

IP: 24.245.55.1 Posted on May 5, 2008 at 11:27:15 AM by Mike

where on the tractor do I check and fill the transmission & pto levels??

Re(1): 1850 gear oil level

IP: 75.104.191.34 Posted on May 5, 2008 at 08:04:34 PM by Larry Harsin

The check plug for the transmission oil level is on the PTO housing. it is the upper one of 2. It is a 1/2" pipe plug. You can pump it in that hole, if you are using a pump. If you are using a funnel, there is a plug on the top left of the PTO housing. Larry

1655 - oil filter

IP: 24.236.173.120 Posted on May 4, 2008 at 06:48:15 PM by tom Harmon

Could you please tell me where I can get a new oil filter for my 1655 diesel.

Re(1): 1655 - oil filter

IP: 75.104.191.34 Posted on May 4, 2008 at 10:20:42 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from an AGCO Dealer. If you don't have one in your area, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

fuel bowl

IP: 66.26.254.206 Posted on May 4, 2008 at 06:47:23 PM by james flinchum

know where i can find the complete fuel bowl and shut off valve for a 1250 tractor. thx

Re(1): fuel bowl

IP: 75.104.191.34 Posted on May 4, 2008 at 10:18:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry

oil

IP: 66.159.124.123 Posted on May 2, 2008 at 12:41:07 PM by neil craig

Hi Larry, What oil would you run in a super 99 with a GM 3-71 engine. I cannot find CF-2 oil which is supposed to be the current API classification for a two stroke diesel.I am assuming it should be a straight # 30 grade oil.

Re(1): oil

IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on May 2, 2008 at 08:34:05 PM by Larry Harsin

The CF-2 isn't often stocked in places that sell oil. If you would contact a farm fuel supplier, he could probably help you find what you need. This oil is a different class of oil than #30. They will have to order what you need, for you. Larry

Valve Adjustment

IP: 74.130.222.27 Posted on May 2, 2008 at 04:30:39 AM by Eric Prewitt

Have a 310 Waukesha with 12 Port head and looking for the Diagram to Adjust valves and can not find it in any of the IT shop manuals we have. I have seen it somewhere that shows which valves you can adjust when on Top Dead Center on #1 and then shows the others when on TDC on #6. Would love to know where I could find this so I can print it out. I do know they are the same just in reverse order, But this is on a Pulling tractor with an exotic cam and is hard to see which ones are opened and which ones are closed.

Re(1): Valve Adjustment

IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on May 2, 2008 at 05:58:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the diagram you are asking about. I can tell you how I do it in my shop. I find TDC #1 and then go 1/3 of a turn for each succeeding cylinder throughout the firing order. Larry

1800 or 1850?

IP: 138.162.0.42 Posted on May 1, 2008 at 07:37:13 AM by Rob Walker

My father recently passed away and left behind an Oliver tractor and I'm trying to determine whether it is an 1800, 1850, or something else. The Model Number on the tractor is 38-1128 and the Serial Number is 146 581-842. Also, I want to do some basic service on the vehicle and wonder if you can recommend a good source for parts.

Re(1): 1800 or 1850?

IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on May 2, 2008 at 05:54:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe you have an 1800C series. One of the last ones they built, in 1964. A good source for parts is O'Brien Co. Impl. in Sheldon IA, ask for Tom 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor in Creston OH 800-808-9934 or Ag Parts First in Wooster OH 866-264-9720. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Floyd Co. Musuem in Charles City IA. 641-228-1022. Larry

Super 55

IP: 216.162.29.193 Posted on May 1, 2008 at 06:30:14 AM by Tina James

Our Earth Science Teacher has a Super 55. He hasn't changed the oil since he has owned it and asked me what would be the best oil to use and how much it holds? I do not have any specs for an Oliver Tractor. Can you help?

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 75.104.183.182 Posted on May 2, 2008 at 05:48:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I would recommend SAE 10w30 or 15w40. Either will work fine. It holds 5 qts. He needs to get an Operator's Manual. He can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or call them if you are using a credit card 641-228-1099. It will cost approx. $20 - $25. Larry

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