Oliver77

IP: 71.7.101.241 Posted on May 30, 2009 at 07:31:22 AM by roger Taylor

I have a 77 oliver row crop tractor that has been setting for 6 years and we had a fuel tank problem with rust so it set and never got used. We got it running and the fuel tank cleaned and coated and now the governor seems to lurch, if you back it off and bring it up to speed it stays running pretty good but then it will start lurching again, I wonder if there is a spring missing or something because all you have to do is put your finger on it and it straightens right out or maybe there is something in the govener that is hanging up from setting too long, any ideas?

Re(1): oliver77

IP: 75.104.161.195 Posted on June 10, 2009 at 08:05:46 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a bumper screw on the front of the governor housing. Try turning that in a bit and see if that helps. Larry

oliver super 88

IP: 98.26.149.171 Posted on May 31, 2009 at 07:35:24 AM by oliver super 88

what is the diffrence between the super 77 diesel and super 88 diesel motors

Re(1): oliver super 88

IP: 75.104.190.76 Posted on May 31, 2009 at 09:43:13 PM by Larry Harsin

The S77 diesel engine has 216 cu. in. The S88 diesel has 265 cu. in. They are a different family of engines. The S77 is of the 185 family of Waukesha engines and the S88 is of the 190 family of Waukesha engines. Larry

1755 PTO leak

IP: 66.82.9.25 Posted on May 30, 2009 at 08:47:15 PM by roy

I have a leak out of the pto shaft on a 1755. I got a seal, but see that it installs from the inside. How big of a problem is this to fix? I was hoping to just remove the large cover in the rear, but upon further investigation in the books, it looks like the entire pto unit will come out then. Is this the case and how difficult is it to disassemble to replace the seal? Any other suggestions on how to keep this from leaking? Thanks for any info you can provide me

Re(1): 1755 PTO leak

IP: 75.104.190.76 Posted on May 31, 2009 at 06:25:27 AM by Larry Harsin

You are right about the entire PTO unit coming out. That is a big job to replace that seal. Your worst fear is true. That is the way it has to be done and as I say, it is a big job installing that seal. Larry

S 55 hydraulics

IP: 154.20.243.143 Posted on May 30, 2009 at 07:24:34 PM by Stu

I was fortunate enough to get the external hydraulic body for my 1955 Super 55 HC. I think that Paul S is stil on here. Thanks again! I putit on and lined in a spool and end it at 2 pioneer couplers. I tried it to run today on a 8x2 cylinder and it didnt work. 3ph still works. It made the cylinder jump a tiny bit when moving the spool but it certainly didnt have pressure. Oddly, in no matter what direction I moved the spool, left or right, it would make the cylinder jump in the same direction. Any ideas? Oil level is full. Engine a good wroking RPM.

Re(1): S 55 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.190.76 Posted on May 31, 2009 at 06:22:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what your problem is. Check it all over again and see if everything is hooked up correctly. Check the linkage on the control valve and make sure it is moving the spool all the way in each direction. Sometimes they get worn. Larry

550 External Hydraulics

IP: 204.116.207.190 Posted on May 30, 2009 at 07:41:49 AM by J.Mash

Hi Larry, is it necessary to run one remote hose back to the center of the external valve when operating a one way cylinder? Like a disc mower?

Re(1): 550 External Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.190.76 Posted on May 31, 2009 at 06:12:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. Try it without and see. If it doesn't work, try it the other way. Larry

Re(2): 550 External Hydraulics

IP: 204.116.207.190 Posted on May 31, 2009 at 09:54:48 AM by J.Mash

It works fine. I just feel like my hydraulic oil gets too hot. I checked the PSI on my pump and it was within specs. Maybe a new filter will help a little. Anybody got any ideas?

Re(3): 550 External Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on June 2, 2009 at 06:58:08 PM by Larry Harsin

A new filter would be a good idea. Larry

Power Steering Issue

IP: 12.96.65.83 Posted on May 29, 2009 at 10:22:24 AM by Keith Hazelwood

I have a 1650 tractor and have replaced the power steering lines. I need to bleed the system but not sure how?

Re(1): Power Steering Issue

IP: 75.104.189.49 Posted on May 29, 2009 at 12:09:23 PM by Larry Harsin

All you have to do is hook the lines up and start the tractor and turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times and you'll be fine. Larry

1650 hrdraulic remotes

IP: 64.184.170.248 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 08:52:09 PM by Chuck Jackson

First of all, Thanks Larry for your help! I did contact Tom and he sent me the parts I needed. The hydraulics are working now with one problem. The right hand remote will not hold in a set position, it bleeds down very fast when on a grading blade etc.. The left side does just fine. I found a bad spot in the cover gasket, a snap ring that had jumped out of place, and one of the 6 tubes between the cover and housing was missing all together. I cleaned and changed all of the o-rings, and replaced some snap rings.Thank you again for your help! Chuck

Re(1): 1650 hrdraulic remotes

IP: 75.104.189.49 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 10:59:10 PM by Larry Harsin

On that right hand remote, one of the valve seats is not holding correctly. It probably has a bad spring in it. Larry

oliver 1250

IP: 66.180.24.247 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 08:37:40 AM by Samuel A Fox Jr.

Larry, My grandfather bought an oliver 1250 brand new in 1966. I would like to restore the tractor but it has a blown engine. I know the tractor was made by Fiat and parts are hard to find. Is there any available engine parts or another type of engine to replace this one.

Re(1): oliver 1250

IP: 75.104.189.49 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 10:56:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 and Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 about available parts and/or engines. I don't know anyone else who has them or another engine that would work. Larry

1655 hydraulic oil leak

IP: 98.80.131.54 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 07:22:15 AM by cleon Couey

Larry, Hydraulic oil is leaking into the transmission. Draft lever feels loose inside. Could it be the draft lever seal leaking into the rear end? Or could it be front seal on hydraulic pump? Idler gear support and bearing for the pump were recently repaired.

Re(1): 1655 hydraulic oil leak

IP: 75.104.189.49 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 10:53:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the draft lever would have anything to do with it. It could be the other things you mention, or it could be a small hole in the oil pan. Larry

1850 hyd oil leak and pto problem

IP: 173.20.31.102 Posted on May 27, 2009 at 08:39:48 PM by Jared

hello larry, im new to your site and i have a question about an 1850 oliver i just bought. its leaking hydraulic oil into the rear end, and also the pto runs constantly when the tractor is running. im wondering if the problems could be related and if you could offer some guidance? really like your site thanks for your time. jared

Re(1): 1850 hyd oil leak and pto problem

IP: 75.104.182.117 Posted on May 28, 2009 at 05:16:22 AM by Larry Harsin

The most common problem with the leakage into the rear end is around the seal on the draft control linkage rod. The PTO unit will have to be removed to replace this seal. As far as the PTO is concerned with it's turning, this is a common complaint. However, if this is very severe, it may have warped drive plates. Larry

Oliver 77 RC Transmission

IP: 75.41.208.112 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 10:06:24 PM by Jason

I recently aquired a 1949 77 RC. The tractor runs fine, but I have trouble getting it from the top tree to the bottom tree of gears. What would cause this.

Re(1): Oliver 77 RC Transmission

IP: 75.104.182.117 Posted on May 27, 2009 at 12:09:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It probably has a worn poppit block. You'll either have to replace this, or you can take a side grinder and grind the ramp on the center rail, off just a slight amount, where the ball is pushed up. Then it won't wedge in there. Larry

1655 pto

IP: 64.187.72.210 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 06:54:12 PM by mike schuppe

I need to put a clutch in my 1655 and cant get my pto shaft out. Am I missing something? Does the clutch pack come out with it?

Re(1): 1655 pto

IP: 75.104.182.117 Posted on May 27, 2009 at 12:06:58 PM by Larry Harsin

On the inside of the clutch spider, there is a internal snap ring that holds the bearing. Before you pry the spider away from the clutch pack, engage the PTO clutch (snap it over center). Then, you can pry the spider back and the shaft will come out with the spider. Larry

Super 55 Oil

IP: 65.82.244.127 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 03:43:21 PM by Tom

This is my first tractor (Super 55 Diesel) and the service manual says to use 10W-30 oil in the transmission. Is this still the right thing to do or is their a better alternative now. Recommendations for all fluids would be highly appreciated.

Re(1): Super 55 Oil

IP: 75.104.182.117 Posted on May 27, 2009 at 12:04:06 PM by Larry Harsin

80 - 90 transmission oil in the transmission. Med non-foaming hydraulic oil in the hydraulic. In the engine, I'd use 10w-30 engine oil. Larry

1800 oliver

IP: 69.66.138.198 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 11:43:39 AM by ron

where are the serial numbers located on a 1964 oliver 1800 gas

Re(1): 1800 oliver

IP: 75.104.182.117 Posted on May 27, 2009 at 12:01:54 PM by Larry Harsin

It is on the dash below the clutch pedal. Larry

Cockshutt 1750

IP: 69.27.50.158 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 05:51:21 AM by Noel Putman

Larry, Is there any difference between an Oliver 1750 and a CoShutt 1750? Also, I can not get the brakes to adjust correctly on my 1850. They either cause the paint to burn off the pressure plate or are too loose and do not work. Do I need new discs?

Re(1): Cockshutt 1750

IP: 75.105.45.220 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 06:07:44 AM by Larry Harsin

There is no difference in the Oliver 1750 and the Cockshutt 1750. You probably need new discs. You need to take them completely apart and replace the discs. You probably should replace the springs on the actuator plates, unless they ones you have are still tight. Larry

Oliver 1555

IP: 70.169.109.51 Posted on May 25, 2009 at 12:07:48 PM by Robert

What Diesel motor could be put in a 1555 that has a gas motor. How hard would it be to do this.Is there any special modification necessary.

Re(1): Oliver 1555

IP: 75.105.45.220 Posted on May 26, 2009 at 06:03:27 AM by Larry Harsin

You would have to have a 1555 diesel or gas engine. It is a 185 family of engine. That family engine was used in the 770, the 1550 and 1555. You would have to get the diesel engine complete with the air cleaner and the complete fuel system. You will have to get a diesel starter. Other than that, it should work. Larry

2255 hyd.

IP: 71.255.44.152 Posted on May 23, 2009 at 09:45:55 PM by Bud

My son was disking with the 2255 today, and lost all hydraulic power. We did the standard filter and oil change, but nothing works. The bleeder on the filter housing is releasing a small stream of oil, and no bubbles. I cracked open the half inch line that goes off the pump to see if that would burp it. that did not work. On that output line I get a slow drip. The fitting is loose, but not off. This is my first Oliver with closed center hydraulics, and it seems a lot more complicated. Do you have any suggestions? I dont hear any unusual noises.

Re(1): 2255 hyd.

IP: 75.105.45.220 Posted on May 23, 2009 at 10:26:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I wonder if the pump is even turning? It may be a drive failure. There is a little splined shaft in there that turns the pump and I wonder if it is doing it. Larry

88 D engine noise

IP: 74.47.162.66 Posted on May 23, 2009 at 08:43:32 PM by David Boelman

Larry, making steady progress on my 88 diesel. Tonight when I left I noticed a tappet sound inside the valve cover. Does this mean that the valves need to be set? Or is it possibly a bigger problem? Thanks!

Re(1): 88 D engine noise

IP: 75.105.45.220 Posted on May 23, 2009 at 10:23:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably just needs to be adjusted. Larry

1650 hydraulics

IP: 76.1.5.92 Posted on May 20, 2009 at 08:32:23 PM by Lee Hoylman

Larry, I have a 1650 gastractor with 3000 hrs on it. The remote cylinder doesn't have much power. The three point is slow unless the engine is at hi speed. The filter has been changed. Where and what do I check to start troubleshooting?

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.45.160 Posted on May 20, 2009 at 08:37:46 PM by larry Harsin

You should get a pressure gauge and check the pressure by plugging it in where the cylinder plugs in. It should be 1800 - 2000 lbs. psi. If it isn't, your hydraulic pump is getting weak - especially if it is weaker when it is warmed up. Larry

Oliver 70 rims

IP: 71.209.243.135 Posted on May 20, 2009 at 11:54:02 AM by Roger

Larry, I want to know if John Deere rear rims with a 9 bolt pattern will fit my 1946 row crop 70?

Re(1): Oliver 70 rims

IP: 75.105.45.160 Posted on May 20, 2009 at 08:34:39 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. They will fit. Larry

1900 oliver

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 09:18:04 PM by paul aagaard

hello, my landlord has a 1900 oliver that i use and care for. i have tried to buy it but he is not ready to let her go. any way i have a couple of questions. 1st off the high range is slipping a bit when its cold. i have changed the filter and fluid a few times useing type f atf but it doesnt seem to help. is the unit rebuildable and is it very difficult. secondly last summer it started making a growling noise when its first started and when shut down. i think its coming from the rear of the engine but its hard to tell. any info will be greatly appreciated. it is very nice to find this sight dedicated to olivers.

Re(1): 1900 oliver

IP: 75.104.188.85 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 11:23:37 PM by Larry Harsin

It's actually supposed to have type "A" fluid. But now it is all changed to Mercon automatic trans fluid. It sounds to me like you need to go through it. The engine has to be removed to repair the unit. Normally, the slippage you refer to, doesn't occur until the engine is warmed up. I don't know what to say about the growling. I'm wondering if the starter is disengaging from the flywheel. I'd check this out to make sure this isn't happening. See if the starter is working properly. The starter is at the rear of the engine. Larry

Re(2): 1900 oliver

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on May 20, 2009 at 09:35:31 PM by paul

thanks larry, i think i will change it again with the merco and maybe try some seal reviver. it only slips when cold so its kinda differant. i will check out the starter too but it doesnt really sound like its down there. hard to tell over the regular engine noise.

Re(3): 1900 oliver

IP: 208.83.194.80 Posted on May 25, 2009 at 07:54:02 PM by paul aagaard

hey larry, thanks again for the help. i think i found the noise coming from the fan bearings. what a joy that was to get apart. at least it should be an inexpensive repair. as far as the hydra power goes im hoping it will hold together through hay season. paul

1850 hydraulic again

IP: 4.254.159.156 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 08:23:46 PM by t.eden

Hello Larry I took the top off the 1850 to put another pump in. The old pump is a cessna? Could this pump be rebuilt or is it better to buy a new one. Also there is a s shaped pipe that hangs right beside the pump with threads on the end but nothing on it. What is this for? You mentioned in an earlier post about the elbow for the relief valve should i do that to and put the o ring in the 3point cylinder while i am in there?

Re(1): 1850 hydraulic again

IP: 75.104.188.85 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 11:16:38 PM by Larry Harsin

It is better to buy a new pump. Check with Ag Parts First. They have a new replacement that isn't so expensive 866-264-9720. I would replace the elbow for the relief valve with a steel one from your AGCO dealer. If you don't have a dealer, Tom has them at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. I think Ag Parts First will have them also.It's your call about the O ring. It would be a good time to replace it. I think that S pipe is just a by-pass for the relief valve. Larry

Diesel Fuel in the Engine Oil -- Super 77

IP: 207.69.137.29 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 02:34:32 PM by John

I am getting diesel fuel in the engine oil in my Super 77. Can this be coming from the diaphragm pump or is it likely coming from the drive shaft of the bosch injector pump? What is the likely part number or source for the seal on the pump?

Re(1): Diesel Fuel in the Engine Oil -- Super 77

IP: 75.104.188.85 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 11:06:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is probably coming from the diaphragm pump. Korves Oliver has diaphragm repair kits. 618-939-6681 Website: www.korvesoliver.com Larry

top 3Pt seals on 2255

IP: 209.197.170.187 Posted on May 18, 2009 at 07:23:25 PM by Rick

Hi Larry , am trying to replace the two top seals on the three point on the large shaft that goes through the hydraulic housing . Has a factory cab , so i cannot slide the arms which attach to the top of the lift cyls completely off . was wondering , have a factory parts book and a shop manual, draft linkage is external , cannot seem to slide the shaft the opposite way to drop off one arm at a time , does not look like any thing is attached inside by the pics , do not want to do damage here , lower lift cyl pins are seized or i could drop cyls off and rotate arms down below cab , will i have to drop whole hitch assy down from rear of tractor ? Thanks ,Rick.

Re(1): top 3Pt seals on 2255

IP: 75.104.188.85 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 05:32:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I have never tried to do that. One thing to check before you start replacing the seals, is the breather on top of the hydraulic unit. It might be plugged. Larry

1600 hyd cover off

IP: 69.27.50.158 Posted on May 18, 2009 at 07:50:20 AM by Noel Putman

I have the hyd cover off my 1600 to have a new pump put in. Is there anything I should be doing inside there while I have it off and waiting for the pump to be installed?

Re(1): 1600 hyd cover off

IP: 4.248.221.86 Posted on May 18, 2009 at 06:17:26 PM by Larry from MD

Replace the oring on the 3 point piston and replace the pipe elbow on the relief valve. Add the pipe that puts the return oil below the oil leval if its not on there.

Series 3 hyd unit

IP: 216.229.21.6 Posted on May 16, 2009 at 04:14:22 PM by Greg

Larry, I have a Series 3 hyd unit mounted on an Oliver 88 that has been working fine. 2 weeks ago I took the cover off to remove the levers and straighten them out so the ends were higher on the tractor. I tried using the right hand valve yesterday and I only have spool movement one way (out of valve). I have no movement back into the valve. I thought I had a lever installed incorrecty, that was not the problem. I relieved the pressure that was in the hydraulic hoses exiting the RH side of unit, made no difference. Any idea why this valve will not let the spool go in, only out? Any assistance would be appreciated!

Re(1): Series 3 hyd unit

IP: 75.104.188.19 Posted on May 18, 2009 at 05:29:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Where the little ball joint is attached to the valve, may be out of adjustment. That has to be correct or it won't work. Adjust it by trial and error and you can do this before you put the reservoir back on. Work the valve both directions. Larry

Re(2): Series 3 hyd unit

IP: 216.229.21.6 Posted on May 18, 2009 at 09:41:58 AM by Greg

Larry, Since I haven't pulled the reservoir off (only pulled off cover w/levers), I will need to disassemble the reservoir to get to the ball joint?

Re(3): Series 3 hyd unit

IP: 75.104.188.85 Posted on May 19, 2009 at 05:29:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The reservoir will have to be removed. The travel for the spool needs to be adjusted so that it matches the travel on the top rail. Larry

effects of zero oil pressure

IP: 24.58.191.161 Posted on May 16, 2009 at 06:11:10 AM by Jeff Rarick

We have a 1550 that goes through a quart or more of oil a week. I assume it is the valve stem seal since there was some oil on the plugs, but she runs fine. I was working in the field at 1500 rpm when I looked down and noticed that my pressure was fluctuating around zero and 10 psi vs. 20 -30. I also heard a wobble kind of noise from the motor, like it was out of balance (under load). So I checked the oil and I was down 2 quarts! I put the oil in, but now I have a defined tick tick tick noise when I put the engine under a load. Any idea which bearing I killed and how bad it would be to finish my spring work?

Re(1): effects of zero oil pressure

IP: 75.104.188.19 Posted on May 18, 2009 at 05:26:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you have already damaged the engine and you had better stop using it and do a tear down. I would suspect that there may be a broken piston ring and if you ran it with low oil pressure, there may be other damage. Definitely quit using it until you have time to repair it. Larry

1850 hydraulic unit

IP: 4.254.154.227 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 04:07:23 PM by t.eden

Hello Mr Harsin I have an 1850 that had very weak hydraulics so i was going to take the unit off and maybe put a new pump in it. It has the hydralectric style top but all of the wires are gone and i am sure it hasn't worked for years. Well i was going to pump all the fluid out of it so i took off one of the outlets and cranked it up. When i engaged the lever i had very little flow so i wiggled the lever and noticed it spewed a little like trapped pressure so I let it stay in the nuetral position and it srarted flowing a lot like it was pumping great! Is this normal to do this? If not Could there be a problem in the valve body causing the weak hydraulic problem?

Re(1): 1850 hydraulic unit

IP: 75.104.189.130 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 08:59:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is a way of pumping it out. This is normal. Your hydraulic pump could be worn out, giving you a weak hydraulic. I doubt if it is a problem in the valve body. Larry

Oliver 995 Lugamatic

IP: 67.244.158.232 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 06:22:29 AM by Cas

I was always interested in the 995 lugamatic. Does anyone know how the torgue converter is setup and if parts are still available? One has come up for sale. The tractor runs good, but needs some rust hole patched, sheet metal pounded out, and paint job. What would be a reasonable offer?

Re(1): Oliver 995 Lugamatic

IP: 75.104.189.130 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 08:55:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 995 Lugamatic

IP: 67.244.158.232 Posted on May 16, 2009 at 05:03:48 AM by Cas

Larry, I collect Oliver's and in 40 years I have never seem a lugamatic sell. Also, I do not know much about them. Do you anywhere or anybody where I could get some information?

Re(3): Oliver 995 Lugamatic

IP: 75.104.189.130 Posted on May 16, 2009 at 06:05:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Call the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. You probably don't want to purchase an Operator's Manual, since you don't own the tractor. But, that would give you all kinds of information about the tractor. You could resell the manual if you don't get the tractor bought. They will have all of the manuals: the Operator's Manual, the Service Manual and the Parts Manual. Plus, they may be able to give you other info. Their phone: 641-228-1099 Their email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

550 gas 64 model

IP: 204.116.207.190 Posted on May 14, 2009 at 10:11:12 PM by J. Mash

Hi Larry, when my engine is up to operating temperature and I shut it off, it runs backwards a little every time. It does not do it when it is cold. It has electronic ignition. Its a new engine(300 hours) and runs great. Is my timing a little high? I run super unleaded gas. Thanks

Re(1): 550 gas 64 model

IP: 75.104.161.72 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 06:18:36 AM by Larry Harsin

No. That isn't the problem. This is just a common thing. What I'd do is leave it in gear and then shut off the key and let out on the clutch. Don't let it keep running backwards, it will tear up the starter. Some of these tractors just do this. A real slow idle speed before shutting it off, helps a lot. Larry

880 HYDRAULICS

IP: 68.19.57.72 Posted on May 14, 2009 at 12:59:27 PM by charles rutland

mr harsin I NEED TO SET UP HYDS FOR ONE WAY CYL.AND WHEN I REMOVED THE PLUG FROM THE BASE OF THE HYD UNIT THERE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE SET SCREW INSIDE THE PORT THE OIL FLOWS FREELY.CAN I RUN A SHORT HOSE FROM THE HYD PORT TO WHERE PLUG WAS AND START USING THE ONE WAY CYL.? THANKS.RUTLAND

Re(1): 880 HYDRAULICS

IP: 75.104.161.72 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 06:12:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. If that plug you removed, is for the drain, then that is where to put the return hose. You will need a momentary restricter on this line that goes back to the drain. The 2 parts you need are: K2114 and K2115 (spring and plunger). These have to be inserted in the swivel that has a different style spring and plunger at present. There are really 2 different ways of doing this. Give me a call so we can talk about it. 712-362-2966 Larry

PTO 1850 Diesel

IP: 98.224.211.191 Posted on May 14, 2009 at 10:57:53 AM by BILL

Above the PTO shaft there is a button plug that is leaking fluid. It flows out slowly while the tractor is running. What do I need to do to stop the leak? Can an amatuer do this repair? What type and how much fluid do I need to use?

Re(1): PTO 1850 Diesel

IP: 75.104.161.72 Posted on May 15, 2009 at 06:06:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I think that it is leaking between the plug and the O ring in the inside of the splined shaft. Remove the button plug and about 3 inches inside the shaft, you will find a snap ring. Remove the snap ring, then, with a 1/2 inch coarse thread bolt that is 8 - 10 inches long, screw it into the plug you see in there and pull that plug out. That plug is sealed with a rubber O ring. Replace this O ring. You can do this. The transmission contains 80 - 90 transmission oil. The level plug for this is the top 1/2 inch pipe plug, below and to the right of where you are working. Oil should be at the top plug. If this doesn't fix the problem, do not try to replace the seal there, without further advice. Larry

1655 hyd noise

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on May 13, 2009 at 03:42:02 AM by Noel Putman

Larry, I looked at a 1655 the other day. Ran real well, but it had a "whine" coming from the hyd pump cover. Does that necessarily mean anything? Also, how many hours is a lot for a wauk diesel?

Re(1): 1655 hyd noise

IP: 75.104.161.72 Posted on May 13, 2009 at 09:02:17 PM by Larry Harsin

The whine is sort of typical of a 1855 diesel. They sort of do that. 5000 - 6000 hours is about tops before overhaul. Larry

oliver 60

IP: 142.154.164.72 Posted on May 12, 2009 at 04:52:21 AM by jimmy

hi 1942 60 how can i check coil to know if it is working thanks jimmy

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 12, 2009 at 06:02:22 AM by Larry Harsin

Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap. Turn on the switch. Then hit the starter button and see if it makes a spark. If it does, it works. If you really want to make sure, hold on to the wire and see if it knocks you down. Then, you'll know if it is working! :-) :-) Larry

Oliver 60 Standard 1942

IP: 67.150.100.250 Posted on May 11, 2009 at 12:50:34 PM by Jerry Baker

Hello Larry, I was thinking of restoring a Oliver 60 standard 1942 model. It has been outside for years, but was covered up. The engine will not turn over by hand as I'm sure the rings are hung/rusted in the cylinders. It is missing the side curtains, carb, air cleaner assembly, rear fenders. Most of the paint is long gone with quite a bit of rust. I've read on the net that this tractor is pretty rare. I had auto shops for years, so I know what it takes to build a vehicle back up. I don't have any tractor experience, but I have built many 50's and 60's cars and trucks. With your experience do you think this would be an ok first tractor build or am I shooting myself in the foot? Are parts still available for this tractor? Thanks ahead of time for your input! Jerry in Northern California.

Re(1): Oliver 60 Standard 1942

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 11, 2009 at 05:33:37 PM by Larry Harsin

60 engine parts are getting difficult to come by. There weren't too many of the 60 Standards built, but with lacking all of those parts, plus many more you haven't said, like tires etc etc etc. I'm not sure if it is worth doing or not. You can put a lot of money in an old tractor like that. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 60 Standard 1942

IP: 67.142.130.12 Posted on May 17, 2009 at 10:24:07 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Like Larry says, you can put a bunch of money in a tractor that won't likely be worth what it took to get it going again. 60 Standards are not very common especially in the midwest. There is a place in Creston Oh called Maibach Tractor. They will have anything you need to fix that tractor. Sleeves and pistons have been discontinued by Oliver a long time ago, but Maibach custom makes sleeves and found pistons from another engine, Continental I think, that works in the 60 engine. I can tell you that I spent more on a major overhaul of my 60's engine than I did on doing a complete restore and paint on my CA Allis Chalmers. Just the sleeves and pistons cost more than the complete engine kit for the CA.

880 hydraulics

IP: 74.38.48.207 Posted on May 10, 2009 at 08:12:27 AM by Austin White

I'm trying to use my 880D on a JD 1219 Hay conditioner. It has a 2 way cylinder to swing the tounge, which the tractor works well. It also has a 1 way cylinder to raise it up and down. It will raise it once,but very slowly when the oil is cold. once the oil is warm it won't budge it but it will still move the 2 way. I hooked up a pressure gage to both sides and i'm getting 900 psi at the remotes. When i move the left lever you can see it pressurize the right side hoses, but the right doesn't seem to pressurize the left. I've rebuilt the pump, and put a different hydraulic baseplate on, because i was told mine was cracked and thats why pressure was bleeding through, i bought a used one from Maibach tractor and was assured that it was good, but pressure apparently is still bleeding through.

Re(1): 880 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 10, 2009 at 05:20:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Try raising your pressure up to about 1200 by putting shims on your relief valve. But DON'T exceed 1200. The part number for the shim is K2079, you can get them from Maibach Tractor. 800-808-9934 I would put in about 3 shims. That should help. If it still won't do it, you'll have to consider putting a larger one way cylinder on your hay conditioner. Larry

Power Beyond 1850

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on May 9, 2009 at 01:54:07 PM by Noel Putman

Larry, I have been reading in the archives about this power beyond feature. Will this power an 1810 loader?

Re(1): Power Beyond 1850

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 9, 2009 at 06:04:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it would, but you might want to consider a separate pump for the loader. That is a pretty heavy loader with big cylinders. I think you'd get better service out of it if the loader had it's own pump. Larry

Re(2): Power Beyond 1850

IP: 98.223.177.121 Posted on May 9, 2009 at 07:33:16 PM by Noel Putman

What kind of pump? Crankshaft driven I assume.

Re(3): Power Beyond 1850

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 10, 2009 at 06:06:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You could install a PTO driven pump or an Engine speed PTO driven pump. I have a PTO driven pump for sale, but I don't have the Engine speed PTO driven pump. Northern Hydraulics in Burnsville MN 800-533-5545 has pumps, Dakota Fluid Power in Sioux Falls has pumps. I don't have their number, but they probably have a website. If you are interested in the used one that I have, email me. harsinoliver@ilechsi.com Larry

radiator

IP: 97.112.112.58 Posted on May 6, 2009 at 07:53:14 PM by scott

will a 283 gas radiator from a 1800 work 310 diesel engine

Re(1): radiator

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 7, 2009 at 05:41:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it would fit in there and work. Larry

770 puller

IP: 71.48.221.17 Posted on May 6, 2009 at 07:16:00 PM by scott

i recently bought a 770 gas and am looking to make a puller out of it. do you have any recommendations for piston, head work and carb combos? i would rather ask instead of trying different thing myself. thanks scott

Re(1): 770 puller

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 7, 2009 at 05:40:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I know of a tractor near here, where they installed the 3 3/4" pistons and he sent the head away and had it reworked, ported and polished, and it may have had it fitted with larger valves. I'm not sure about that. I'm very impressed with the way that tractor performs. I didn't do the work on it, but I checked it on my Dyno and it had every bit as much power as a standard 880. Larry

Whats the difference?

IP: 208.22.191.149 Posted on May 6, 2009 at 07:56:24 AM by Josh

I have what we think is an 1855 but we are thinking the previous owner swapped the sheet metal or the engine out of a 1955 into it. How can i tell what chassis i have between an 1855 and 1955? Whats the difference in the 2 engines? Were puzzled because the manual seems not to match up with the 1855 engine and the rear tire size doesnt match up with the 1855. Those two points match the 1955.

Re(1): Whats the difference?

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 7, 2009 at 05:36:40 AM by Larry Harsin

At the time they were built, the 1855 engine did not have an oil cooler built into the engine block. But, there were numerous failures in some of these engines, and the company replaced nearly all of them in this area, with 1955 engines. I've also been told that the late production 1855's came from the factory with 1955 blocks. As far as the rest of the tractor is concerned, the 1955 had some stronger components in the drive train and the 3 pt. hitch was the 6000 lb hitch. The 1855's came with a lighter hitch as standard equipment. However, if you ordered the tractor before it was built, you could have which ever hitch you wanted. Wheels and tires you could choose when you ordered. The larger being standard on the 1955, but you would have to pay extra to get the larger wheels on the 1855. As far as dimensions, both tractors were virtually identical. Larry

Re(2): Whats the difference?

IP: 207.32.20.173 Posted on May 9, 2009 at 08:21:36 PM by john

Hey Larry I think I was told one time that the rear axle housings on an 1855 were a square shape and on the 1955 they were round. Could that be possible?

Re(3): Whats the difference?

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 10, 2009 at 06:10:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the whole 55 series tractors had the axles that were squared. But, at that time, they would build the tractor almost any way the customer ordered them. So, it could be either way, if it was an ordered tractor. Larry

oliver 1250

IP: 70.153.104.177 Posted on May 5, 2009 at 07:34:19 PM by gary lands

I have a oliver 1250 diesel that runs wide open, the only way to control it is with the cut off. if it is pulled half way closed it shuts off enough fuel to slow the engine. thanks gary

Re(1): oliver 1250

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 5, 2009 at 08:03:00 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like your governor is whacky. Call Central Fuel Injection and ask to speak to Bill. See if he can help you. 712-362-4200. Larry

550 Power steering

IP: 4.252.226.17 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 07:08:29 PM by Spriegel

My 550 leaks oil through the steering tube.It is nothing like what is shown in my I&T manual.It has a one piece shaft thatgoes all the way through the control unit and ball nut.The valve body is positioned on the shaft with a lock nut and has caged ball bearings and races on each side of the unit.There are lip seals in the top tube and lower adapter plate. Question, where can I find the top bearing and seal or a repair kit for this unit and is there a torque spec for the lock nut.Also need a tie rod end or "socket" that goes on the end of the hyd. cyl.Thanks Jim

Re(1): 550 Power steering

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 08:57:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He can help you. Larry

Re(2): 550 Power steering

IP: 4.253.120.76 Posted on May 6, 2009 at 07:51:04 AM by Spriegel

Thanks a lot, they had every part I needed.Will have to wait awhile for that $120.00 tie rod though.

removing rear shaft

IP: 164.58.223.136 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 01:47:47 PM by Mitch

I am having trouble removing the shaft that runs the hydraulic pump and pto on a 1850 diesel. I have it out about 1 foot but can't get it lined up to get it the rest of the way out. Thanks

Re(1): removing rear shaft

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 08:55:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Reinsert it the way it was when you started, then rotate the shaft a bit. There are 2 sets of splines that you have to get lined up. Larry

drawbar cradle

IP: 72.251.63.143 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 07:27:37 AM by corre k

will a 1800 diesel cradle fit on a 1650 diesel thanks for your help

Re(1): drawbar cradle

IP: 67.244.158.232 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 10:41:32 AM by Caz

No, I have both tractors and the 1650 is different shaped and smaller.

Re(2): drawbar cradle

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 08:54:04 PM by Larry Harsin

No. Won't work. Larry

1947 OLIVER 88

IP: 69.92.5.162 Posted on May 3, 2009 at 09:22:54 PM by MIKE ODETTE

WHEN I JACK THE LEFT REAR WHEEL THE ASSY SPINS FREE BUT WHEN I JACK THE RIGHT IT HAS A NOTCHIE FEEL TO IT . MY THOUGHT IS A AXLE BRGN . WHAT DO YOU THINK ? I WANT TO SLIDE MY WHEELS IN A LITTLE BUT THE U-BOLTS ARE FROZEN IN THE HUBS ,IT THERE A TRICK TO FREEING THEM WITH OUT DAMAGE TO THEM OR THE HUB?

Re(1): 1947 OLIVER 88

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 08:51:13 PM by Larry Harsin

On the wheels, that could be a brake hanging up a bit. Make sure it isn't that. Also, when you jack it up, see if you can detect any play between the axle and the axle cap. That is an indication of an axle bearing problem. On the U-Bolt problem, the best way is to remove the wheel. Then, I loosen the nuts and use an air chisel. If it doesn't come right away, you will have to heat the hubs with an acetylene torch. You'll have to heat them till they let go. Before you are finished, you may need new U-Bolts. sometimes this will hash the threads on the U-Bolts. Larry

1755 brake leak

IP: 69.19.14.43 Posted on May 3, 2009 at 07:10:59 PM by Roy

My 1755 leaks what I believe to be hydraulic fluid from the "weep" hole below the right brake housing. The line going into the cover is not leaking outside of it. Before I tear it apart, what would you think would be leaking inside there and what would I need to get to repair it. It sometimes leaks a lot and sometimes doesn't leak much. The brake still works fine.

Re(1): 1755 brake leak

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 3, 2009 at 08:03:59 PM by Larry Harsin

There are two O rings in there that seal that piston. Possibly replacing one or both of them is needed. Also, it could be that the brake linings are getting worn enough that they should be replaced. If the brake linings are worn too much, that piston gets out of position. I would replace the O rings and have the brake discs on hand in case they needed to be replaced also. Larry

oliver77

IP: 75.206.11.233 Posted on May 2, 2009 at 05:35:28 PM by Jacob

I have rebuilt a hydralic system for my 77 to replace the mechanical lift. It has good flow one way the other way it bogos the motor down and does not flow back freely. Is their a adjustment besides the screws on the end of the hoses i tried those both ways and it does not help. thanks

Re(1): oliver77

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 3, 2009 at 07:11:08 AM by Larry Harsin

That should be the only adjustment necessary. You may have a defective hydraulic coupler that is not letting the oil back. Larry

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