Super 55 Electrical

IP: 67.72.98.47 Posted on May 31, 2010 at 03:12:45 PM by Gary

I have just purchased my first Oliver. It is a 1958 Super 55. I am a little confused however. This tractor has a 12 volt neg ground battery installed. I have been using the tractor to bush hog and it does fine. Today I checked the battery voltage with the engine off and it reads 13 volts. Therefore the charging system (generator & voltage regulator)must be working properly. With the engine running my digital volt meter jumps all over the place. I suspect this may be because the battery is fully charged. When I turn the headlights on with the engine off the amp meter shows a charge instead of discharge. My questions is first should this be a 12 volt system, second should it be neg or pos ground? Could the previous owner have installed the battery backwards or does he have the amp meter wired backwards? If the battery is installed incorrectly I don't believe that I can reverse it without totally dicharging it. Am I correct? Thanks Gary

Re(1): Super 55 Electrical

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on June 1, 2010 at 05:29:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor was built as a 12 volt, positive ground system. However, someone has changed yours to a negative ground, either accidently or on purpose. What you can do, if it works o.k., is to reverse the wires on the ammeter. You should get an Operator's Manual for your tractor. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

1850 gas

IP: 74.126.250.18 Posted on May 30, 2010 at 08:27:23 PM by Jim

Larry, My 1850 seems to vapor lock in hot weather. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

Re(1): 1850 gas

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on May 31, 2010 at 08:22:33 AM by Larry Harsin

The fuel in the fuel tank is getting too warm. Make sure your fan belt is tight. Also, remove the side panels and see if this makes a difference. Another thing, make sure the fuel line to the carb is not too close to the exhaust manifold. Move it and put some insulation around it. In the 50 series Olivers, they had this problem and they came out with insulation kits for the gas tanks. Is your heat shield in place on your exhaust manifold? For some reason, some guys removed that heat shield and threw it away. In the old days, a lot of farmers removed the side panels so the fuel would cool better. That is why so many of the side panels are missing on these old tractors. Larry

1800 fuel problems

IP: 165.138.96.4 Posted on May 28, 2010 at 06:46:49 AM by Al

Sent this as an email but thought someone else might benefit. Here is my situation. have an 1800 new to me last fall. started running the disk this week, got a couple rounds and the tractor started spitting and sputtering. Sounds like a clogged fuel line, my old M does the same thing. Cleaned the bowl and made sure the fuel lines were cleared out. Opened the carburetor to check float and did a little cleaning. Also cleaned the screen, checked screen when it was sputtered the last time and the screen looked clean. Hoped that would be enough, but????? Ran it last night and after another couple rounds same thing happened. Checked screen not clogged. Carburetor kit????? Temperature was about 200 radiator fluid. What gets me is I unhooked disc and ran the tractor home about 1 1/2 and it ran fine. First time it happened the tractor spit and sputtered for about 1/2 the distance home then it ran fine. also the fuel cap was venting or trying to vent a lot vapor. very carefully removed cap and it almost went flying through the air. been reading your archived posts, came across one post that talked about fuel pump being defective. My crankcase had too much oil in it last night. Defective pump cause some of these problems?? Thank you for any information. Al mitchel

Re(1): 1800 fuel problems

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on May 28, 2010 at 07:45:05 PM by Larry Harsin

The fuel in the fuel tank is getting too warm. Make sure your fan belt is tight. Also, remove the side panels and see if this makes a difference. Another thing, make sure the fuel line to the carb is not too close to the exhaust manifold. Move it and put some insulation around it. In the 50 series Olivers, they had this problem and they came out with insulation kits for the gas tanks. Is your heat shield in place on your exhaust manifold? For some reason, some guys removed that heat shield and threw it away. In the old days, a lot of farmers removed the side panels so the fuel would cool better. That is why so many of the side panels are missing on these old tractors. Yes. The diaphragm gets cracked and the fuel runs right down into the crankcase. If you need a diaphragm, you can get one from Korves Oliver. 618-939-6681 Larry

Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on May 27, 2010 at 12:07:36 PM by Mack Ross

Hi Larry, I was doing some box blade work and while backing up the tractor just stopped. It now seems like it is stuck in some gear. The gear shift will move feely with the clutch pushed in but when I try to let out on the clutch, it stalls. It does that in neutral as well. Any idea what could have happened? I am about to take the top off of the transmission to take a look. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on May 28, 2010 at 05:29:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you need to remove that top and take a look. I'm not sure exactly what it could be either. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on May 28, 2010 at 12:34:34 PM by Mack Ross

I have taken the top off of the transmission. I put the right and left rail in the center position for neutral. The center shaft is the high and low range. I have the center shaft in high range and it is still in a gear. If I move the center shaft half way between high and low, I can spin the gears on the bevel pinion shaft (top shaft). When I rock the tractor it is still in gear. Could the brakes be causing this? I need help bad!

Re(3): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on May 28, 2010 at 07:42:15 PM by Larry Harsin

There could be a brake acting up!! Check them out. There is another possibility - check and see if the counter shaft turns freely on the PTO shaft. The PTO shaft is supposed to turn freely through the counter shaft. There are 2 needle bearings inside the counter shaft, that can mess up and cause a problem. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on May 29, 2010 at 04:49:41 PM by Mack Ross

Larry, Both brakes are free and the PTO spins freely when it is disengaged. When I put everything in neutral the Bevel Pinion shaft stills seems to be engaged. I can spin all the gears on the shaft but pinion gear is still engaged somewhere. Is there anything near the clutch that could be still engaged? I am at a loss as to what is wrong. Any other ideas? Thanks.

Re(5): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on May 31, 2010 at 10:33:00 AM by Mack Ross

I have found that I have some slack on the Bevel Pinion shaft that is letting the pinion gear move back and rub on the hub of the drive gear. It appears to be about 1/4" play. From reading my manual, there is an internally and externally threaded nut on the front of the bevel pinion shaft that holds the gears together and then another nut that threads over the previous nut to hold in the main bearings on the shaft. I can not thighten the outer nut, so that leads me to believe the inner nut is loose. It sounds like I have to split the tractor to get to that nut. Is there any way to tighten that inner nut without splitting the tractor? Also, do you think this could be my problem?

Re(6): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 173.89.64.41 Posted on May 31, 2010 at 04:59:43 PM by J. Schneider

I have the same problem with my 550 that I just purchased. I can get first gear, but nothing else. Looking in my transmission it looks like two shafts were welded together by a previous owner where they go through the forward bearing. I don't see any "nuts" anyplace. I'm sure interested in what fixes yours. I have a post up on the YT site with pictures in the Oliver forum.

Re(7): Oliver 550 Transmission Problem

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on June 1, 2010 at 05:36:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm afraid you will have to split your tractor. I'm not sure what you will find, but I wouldn't put it back together with that much play in the bevel pinion shaft. But, I am sure you will find your problem. Schneider, you are going to have to do the same thing. You will get only one gear with it the way it is. If either of you need parts, call Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349. Larry

tractor info

IP: 69.20.205.233 Posted on May 27, 2010 at 10:11:35 AM by Tony Eynetich

Can you tell me what tractor this is by the serial #124272-736 and model #37-0417? It says Oliver rowcrop on the rear axel but no decals to let me know what it is. Motor # are 185220-F and 104306A with 4272 stamped by a dial under them. Also when runnung the tractor it will die out unless you pull the choke then it will run longer but still will die. The carb has what appears to be frost on it. I was told it might be the carb so I had it rebuilt but didn't fix problem. Then I was told it might be the governor it was out of adjustment but didn't totally fix the problem it just lets it run longer before it dies. Any info will be great.

Re(1): tractor info

IP: 75.104.183.43 Posted on May 28, 2010 at 05:27:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe you have a 1962 770 Row Crop Oliver. I would take the fuel strainer out of the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure there isn't an obstruction in the neck. Larry

Re(2): tractor info

IP: 69.20.205.233 Posted on June 1, 2010 at 09:41:14 AM by Tony

Where would I find repair manuals for this tractor?

Re(3): tractor info

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on June 2, 2010 at 06:32:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099 or there is a link on our main page that will take you there. Larry

Oliver Loader for 1550

IP: 165.138.147.155 Posted on May 25, 2010 at 01:15:04 PM by Jeff

Will an Oliver 1510 loader fit an Oliver 1550?

Re(1): Oliver Loader for 1550

IP: 75.104.169.160 Posted on May 25, 2010 at 10:39:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you should have a 1610 for a 1550. The 1510 is built more for the Utility size tractor. Larry

1650 tachometer

IP: 69.26.14.30 Posted on May 25, 2010 at 08:48:28 AM by Bill

Larry, The tach quit on my 1650 and of course I don't know if it is the cable or the tach itself. I disconnected the cable at the bottom end and that seems fine. My question - how do you get at the tach itself? I took the cover off on top of the dash, but you can't reach it through there. Does the dash come off with the four screws in the corners?

Re(1): 1650 tachometer

IP: 75.104.169.160 Posted on May 25, 2010 at 10:37:11 PM by Larry Harsin

The panel with the tach and the instruments is held with 4 screws. Take this loose and also disconnect the ground cable on the battery, so you won't get something shorted out. You can also remove the 2 screws that hold the small panel below there that holds the hydra-power shift lever. This would give you more room. Larry

1250 Clutch

IP: 72.2.201.67 Posted on May 24, 2010 at 07:43:00 PM by Joey Posivio

Can you tell me what the proper specs are for adjusting the clutch fingers on a 1250?

Re(1): 1250 Clutch

IP: 75.104.169.160 Posted on May 26, 2010 at 06:20:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Joey, you really need to get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. There is a whole chart of "specs" and you will need all of it. Page 3.6. Larry

1855 air cleaner

IP: 149.32.192.34 Posted on May 24, 2010 at 07:00:50 AM by David Smith

There is something (I suspect rust) in the fuel tank which is plugging at about 1/2 tank. I am trying to pull the tank to clean it and coat it however I am having difficulty removing the air intake. Does the circular piece at the top-looks like some turbine blades inside--unscrew? I'm concerned that if I just force it I'll break it if it isn't supposed to unscrew.

Re(1): 1855 air cleaner

IP: 75.104.169.160 Posted on May 25, 2010 at 05:26:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The air intake doesn't unscrew. It just lifts right off of that pipe. Larry

1655 transmission screen

IP: 74.249.198.12 Posted on May 23, 2010 at 07:59:27 PM by Robert Rogers

I recently changed the transmission oil on my 1655. The owners manual shows a drain plug and a oil pump screen plug. When you take the screen plug out, you can't feel anything inside of transmission with your finger. I've done this for several years and just now realized the screen is missing. Is this important to replace and how does it stay in place?

Re(1): 1655 transmission screen

IP: 75.105.45.36 Posted on May 24, 2010 at 05:55:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the screen is important. The screen is part of the plug - made onto it. Call O'Brien Co. Impl. for a new screen. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver crawler

IP: 65.40.140.17 Posted on May 21, 2010 at 01:44:18 PM by karen

I bo't a CleTrac with a continental engine. I can't find out what model it is. Is there anywhere I might look to get a clue? no tags and the wrong engine, I want to put the correct engine in it.=)

Re(1): Oliver crawler

IP: 75.105.45.36 Posted on May 24, 2010 at 05:53:04 AM by Larry Harsin

There is one Cletrac that I know of that has a Continental engine. It is the AG 6. This engine is a 6 cylinder flat head engine, Contact Landis Zimmerman. He is an expert on Cletracs and has a Parts Sales and Service for them 717-738-2573. Larry

diesel fuel in crank case

IP: 70.187.11.243 Posted on May 20, 2010 at 08:30:37 PM by Larry K

I am getting diesel fuel into the crankcase of my Super 55. I am replacing the primary fuel pump. Is there any other way fuel can leak into the crankcase? I had the injector pump rebuild last year to complete an overhaul.

Re(1): diesel fuel in crank case

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on May 21, 2010 at 05:01:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that the fuel pump is where your problem is. Larry

1850 oliver hydraulics

IP: 76.235.101.140 Posted on May 20, 2010 at 11:24:30 AM by Mike Torbeck

I have a 1850 oliver that has a loader on it and it jerks when u let it down. It dont do it when u raise it only when u let it down or roll the bucket. Thanks

Re(1): 1850 oliver hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on May 21, 2010 at 05:00:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Look in your Operator's Manual and it will tell you about adjusting the restrictors on the outlets. To slow it down so that it won't do that, you have to screw them in. Otherwise, you can install a power beyond and run your loader with a 2 spool valve. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

58 880 transmission lubricant

IP: 74.13.69.90 Posted on May 19, 2010 at 08:13:42 PM by Don

What oil do you recommend to use in the transmission and final drive for a 58 880? The manual says 10w-30 with an additive but the additive in no longer available. Thanks. Don.

Re(1): 58 880 transmission lubricant

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on May 20, 2010 at 06:16:06 AM by Larry Harsin

If it doesn't have power booster, I would use 80-90 or 8500-40. If it has a power booster, I would use something like Hy-Tran. Larry

oil filter housing

IP: 99.196.128.58 Posted on May 18, 2010 at 02:05:31 PM by jack

is the oil filter housing on a 88 block the same as a 310 block

Re(1): oil filter housing

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on May 19, 2010 at 05:42:57 AM by Larry Harsin

No. It is totally different. Larry

ADDING A SET OF REMOTES ON OLIVER 1550

IP: 4.225.146.83 Posted on May 17, 2010 at 05:55:35 PM by jason dumford

HOW DO I GO ABOUT ADDING ANOTHER SET OF REMOTES ON MY OLIVER 1550 TRACTOR? I HAVE 2 LEVERS FOR THE HYDRAULICS.

Re(1): ADDING A SET OF REMOTES ON OLIVER 1550

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on May 19, 2010 at 05:40:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to plumb into the power beyond port. This is below the left front corner of the seat bracket. It is a 1/2" pipe plug pointing forward. Remove the plug and there is a threaded passage inside. It takes a 3/8" socket head pipe plug to block this passage. Then, you attach a hose and run the oil up to the inlet side of your loader valve. Then, the hose that take the oil back to the unit goes in where a 1/2" pipe plug points toward the left fender. It is on the passage that is directly behind where you installed the 3/8" pipe plug. It is about 3 or 4 inches back of where you installed that plug and is pointed toward the fender. Larry

Super 55 clutch pedal bolt

IP: 38.105.103.98 Posted on May 17, 2010 at 11:09:26 AM by Kevin

Eye-bold that connects clutch pedal to the exterior clutch 'level' has broken. Now, no clutch. Too much torque to use regular hardware store eye-bolt as it would soon open up the (bent/formed) eye. Need a machined part. Any idea where I could source one? Possible it is similar to a Ford 9-N setup, allowing me to scavange one from a Ford?

Re(1): Super 55 clutch pedal bolt

IP: 75.104.161.126 Posted on May 19, 2010 at 05:29:43 AM by Larry Harsin

For that bolt, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Towing Oliver Fleetline

IP: 216.229.21.6 Posted on May 14, 2010 at 07:52:44 AM by Greg

I am planning to take my Oliver 88 to a tractor drive this summer. Having problems finding a trailer to haul it with, wondering about using a two wheel car tow (like you see behind RV's)to tow the tractor the 100 miles. I have seen tractors towed before, are there any issues with the Oliver rearend if I did this? Trying to formulate a Plan B if flatbed trailer does not come through.

Re(1): Towing Oliver Fleetline

IP: 75.104.168.104 Posted on May 14, 2010 at 07:44:23 PM by Larry Harsin

It can be done, but the flatbed trailer would be better. If you tow it, I wouldn't exceed 30 MPH. To tow it, just put it in neutral and go slow. Larry

70 head bolts

IP: 75.105.214.149 Posted on May 12, 2010 at 04:22:41 AM by gary

what should i torque the head bolts on a 1946 70. the head was milled .080 if that makes any difference. thanks

Re(1): 70 head bolts

IP: 75.104.169.210 Posted on May 12, 2010 at 06:24:23 AM by Larry Harsin

The head bolts are 65 lbs. except for the 2 short ones on each end are 60 lbs. Larry

Bolt in trans oil

IP: 130.76.32.14 Posted on May 12, 2010 at 02:10:19 AM by Patrick Flohe

Larry, while draining the transmission fluid in my Super 55, I stuck my finger in all 3 drain holes to see if there was sludge or anything, and found a hex bolt in the rear plug area.... I think it is about 1/4" diameter, about 3/4" to 1" long, and fine thread ( I don't have the bolt with me now, but can have family check it out if you want a precise size ). The hex is a little thicker than a normal hex bolt, and has relatively sharp edges, almost as though it was machined. The top of the hex looks like there was a welded area in the center, but looks like it was made that way. There is a rectangle indentation on the threaded end of the shank. There is no damage to the bolt ( other than partially stripped threads ), so I don't think it got caught in any moving parts. Do you have any idea where this might have come from, and if I should be alarmed? Tractor works fine, so I'm not sure if I should tear into this thing to see if I'm missing something important. -But I don't want to damage anything, either. Should I send this to you so you can see it? Thanks for your time, Patrick

Re(1): Bolt in trans oil

IP: 75.104.169.210 Posted on May 12, 2010 at 06:17:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know where it would have come from. You got it out, so if the tractor works fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Larry

White/Oliver 2-44

IP: 198.208.251.21 Posted on May 8, 2010 at 09:06:59 AM by Joe Gordon

I have a White/Oliver 2-44 tractor. I can't find any manuals that list their for a 2-44 model. Is there another model that is close I can get a manual for? My tractor had been setting outside for 13 years. It will not roll, and the engine will not turnover. Have and Ideas where I should start?

Re(1): White/Oliver 2-44

IP: 75.104.168.5 Posted on May 8, 2010 at 01:34:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Or there is a link on the home page of this website. I'd take the drain plugs out of the transmission and rear end and see if there is water. It may have frozen and done some damage inside some time. Larry

Oliver 990

IP: 71.7.24.149 Posted on May 7, 2010 at 08:43:27 PM by Chad

Hi Larry and thanks in advance. I heard you are not supposed to use multi weight oil in a oliver 990 Gm diesal. What do you think I should use?

Re(1): Oliver 990

IP: 75.104.168.5 Posted on May 8, 2010 at 06:28:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use 30 weight oil, like is used in a gas engine. Not the high detergent stuff, like the diesels use. Series 3 is too high a detergent oil for that engine, but it needs a detergent like what is used in the currant gas engines. Your oil supplier can look it up and give you a good recommendation of which oil to use. Larry

1800 fuel problem

IP: 99.183.201.23 Posted on May 7, 2010 at 08:37:53 PM by W.D. Blevins

Went to change a flat on my 1800 today by lifting the front-end with the loader when I got it barely off the ground the tractor died and would not start. Will start if you give it a lettle gas thru the air intake. The fuel line running from the tank thru the sediment bowl to the carb if flowing good fuel unsure if it's in the carb but when I pull the plug on the bottom of the carb it flows very little fuel if any. If it is the carb where can I find a kit, or a different carb?

Re(1): 1800 fuel problem

IP: 75.104.168.5 Posted on May 8, 2010 at 06:24:30 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are getting good fuel to the carb, if it is the aluminum carb, there is a strainer in there ahead of the float valve. It should be checked. If your carb is the iron one, it's not letting fuel past the flow valve. There are kits available for either of these carbs. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224 or your AGCO Dealer. Valu-Bilt would have a kit and or a carb 888-828-3276. Larry

Oliver 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 208.69.166.119 Posted on May 5, 2010 at 10:01:40 PM by Ross

Hello. I bought an 1855 some time back and know nothing of its history. I have overhauled the engine and am now in the process of getting it ready to use in the field. My hydraulic system seems noisy. I have read in the service manual that this could be the compensation valve sticking in the "pumping" position. Does this sound right? (The pump sounds just like on any other tractor when the cylinder has reached its max travel and the pump hums just before the detent releases the lever.) If it is the compensation valve, how should I go about taking it off to clean it? I have heard that one should be careful that the rod does not come out after taking the four little bolts out? Any help you can give would be wonderful. Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.48 Posted on May 6, 2010 at 05:50:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. in Sheldon IA 800-320-6224. He's more of an expert on this. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1855 Hydraulics

IP: 4.248.222.23 Posted on May 6, 2010 at 05:18:56 PM by Larry from MD

You are right about the rod in there. Its best to have 2 people.First drain the oil(lots more will come out the pump)Remove the 4 bolts and try to wiggle it off and get something behind the valve and trap against the rod to hold it. The rod does stik into the piece you are takeing off so you can't get the end untill its off. Have one person clean while one holds the rod in. You can allso remove the drain plug in the pump and stick a finger up there to press on the rod.

six cyl. dist.

IP: 65.163.152.65 Posted on May 4, 2010 at 04:00:52 PM by Will

I have an Oliver six cylinder angle drive distributor (Delco-Remy 1111412)set-up that looks to be a replacement for a magneto since it fits a 3 1/8" opening. I want to know what this fits; I'm thinking a Model 70. Any help appreciated.

Re(1): six cyl. dist.

IP: 75.104.182.177 Posted on May 5, 2010 at 06:16:07 AM by Larry Harsin

You are right. It fits an Oliver 70. Larry

Re(2): six cyl. dist.

IP: 65.163.152.65 Posted on May 5, 2010 at 04:08:26 PM by Will

I'm cleaning my shop and found the dist set-up I had bought years back. Do you have an estimate of what's it worth and where would be best place to advertise it. It's complete except for the dist hold-down clamps and in very good condition. Could use a cap as it is weathered to a dull finish. Thanks........Will

Re(3): six cyl. dist.

IP: 75.104.161.48 Posted on May 6, 2010 at 05:57:27 AM by Larry Harsin

If you find someone who needs it, it could be worth $75 - $100. You can advertise it in the Oliver collector magazines: Oliver Heritage magazine www.oliverinformation.com Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. magazine www.hartparroliver.org Larry

Oliver 88 rear main seal

IP: 216.229.21.6 Posted on May 3, 2010 at 09:18:00 PM by Greg

Larry, I am in the process of rebuilding Oliver 88 diesel engine and was reading about replacing rear main seal with flywheel off. How does this seal come off the flywheel end of the crankshaft? Also, tech manual says to soak cork seal in oil before installing. Should I do this to both the front and rear main seal? Thanks, Greg M

Re(1): Oliver 88 rear main seal

IP: 75.104.182.177 Posted on May 3, 2010 at 10:22:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Just pry it off with the pry bar and then drive the new one on. Soak it in motor oil - both front and rear. Be sure the rear seal slides back and forth on the crankshaft before you install. On the front seal, try sliding it on the crankshaft pulley before installation. Larry

Oliver 70 Rear wheels

IP: 97.90.192.155 Posted on May 1, 2010 at 02:56:21 PM by Norm Williams

I'm finding it too hard to get 40" rear tires in my area. Was wondering if it's possible to swap my 40" inch rear wheels with 38" inch rims and tires?

Re(1): Oliver 70 Rear wheels

IP: 75.104.182.177 Posted on May 3, 2010 at 05:49:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It's possible. But I just heard this weekend that 40" rubber will be available shortly. Just hang on for awhile. Larry

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