"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid-August through Mid September, 2002 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid-August through Mid September, 2002 Archives
power
IP: 137.36.250.75 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 06:44:39 PM by jason stiehl
Looking to get a stroker kit for my Oliver 770 would you have any ideas about where I would be able to find a place or someone who would be able to help me out? Thank Great Web Site!!!
Re(1): power
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 10:16:13 PM by Larry Harsin
Call Arnold Motor Supply at Spencer Iowa, 712-262-6430. Ask for Jay Betz who is head of the Machine Shop. Tell him what you need. Larry
Oliver info.
IP: 204.220.60.190 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 01:00:11 PM by hubbs
Would like any information on an oliver 1850 Dsl. Any good websites with tourque specs are engine diagrams.
Re(1): Oliver info.
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 10:13:04 PM by Larry Harsin
You should get an I&T Shop Manual for your 1850. You can get one from Mary Ann at: hpocacc@fiai.net This will give you this info. Larry
770 hydraulic pump
IP: 137.36.250.75 Posted on September 18, 2002 at 05:02:58 PM by jason stiehl
is it a hard job to remove a 770 hydraulic pump and plat off the housing?
Re(1): 770 hydraulic pump
IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 05:07:13 AM by Larry Harsin
No. You have to remove the Power-Take-Off drive shaft which goes through the pump itself. Unbolt the gear shift and take it out. Unbolt the hydraulic frame and roll it up out of there. Larry
Re(2): 770 hydraulic pump
IP: 63.164.209.28 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 10:25:40 PM by Greg Raser
Yup, Larry is correct, not too bad,, I did mine a while back,,, you do need to make a "notched" shim to slide under the shifter, so the lil' springs don't fall out
Vapor lock???
IP: 216.95.136.243 Posted on September 18, 2002 at 02:48:21 PM by Richard
Larry: I have a friend who has a Case 300 tractor. When he works it for 30 minutes or so it starts to miss and carry on. I am guessing thats its a vapor lock. What can be done to eliminate the problem. in cold weather it runs great. Thanks
Re(1): Vapor lock???
IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 05:03:58 AM by Larry Harsin
That's possible. He may have a fuel line that is too close to the manifold. That could cause a vapor-lock. He should have his ignition coil checked to make sure it is not breaking down when it gets warm. Larry
1550
IP: 209.62.208.202 Posted on September 18, 2002 at 10:40:12 AM by Randy Adams
I have what i think in a 1550 model355-22048 serial 201-922-508 what model is it. it is a high crop i want to make it a row crop.
Re(1): 1550
IP: 208.10.124.203 Posted on September 18, 2002 at 11:27:22 AM by Larry from Maryland
Its a 1550 and its to valueable as a high crop to be changed to a common row crop!
Re(2): 1550
IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 05:00:53 AM by Larry Harsin
If you want a RC, there are guys with a 1550 RC who will trade you and you won't have to do all that work. Contact Sherry Schaefer and run an ad in the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. Magazine saying that you want to trade. sherry@oliverinformation.com. The High Crops are greatly desired by many of the collectors. Larry
88 wide front
IP: 65.100.92.166 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 08:50:37 PM by chuck
Larry: In April you provided me with hydraulic pump for 88 RC in exchange and repair costs on my old one. The pump is working great, thank you again. Do you have a wide front for for 88RC? I would need wheels tires and all. Also, at the time I was looking for CHAR-LYN power steering unit for 88RC. You didn't have any. Do you happen to have any now? Thanks again Chuck
Re(1): 88 wide front
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 11:02:07 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, I have a wide front in excellent condition with wheels, rims and tires. I think I may have a Char-Lynn Power Steering also. Larry
Diesel heads
IP: 64.24.229.71 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 08:14:46 PM by Mike in Ohio
Hi Larry-- I have read that a 1550 diesel head will replace a Super 77 diesel head. Is the 1550 head an improved design that will not be as likely to crack? Is there a later model head that is improved that will replace a Super 88 D head? Thanks--Mike
Re(1): Diesel heads
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 10:58:18 PM by Larry Harsin
I would say the 1550 D head is improved for more hp and better performance. I don't know that it will last any longer. For the S88 D head, Waukesha number 192002H is the latest head for the 880 and S88. That replaces 19200A or 19200B. Larry
Motor casting ID
IP: 64.33.181.186 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 04:04:14 PM by Paul A. Ramey
Hi Larry, Thanks for the info from my last posting! I need to make sure the motor in my 770D is in fact a 1550D before I order any parts for it. Can you tell from the casting number from the block? I found the following numbers behind the starter; 185220-E IMB-100-B
Re(1): Motor casting ID
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 10:51:26 PM by Larry Harsin
Those numbers are for a 770 Diesel and I think the 1550 uses the same parts. I just sold a crankshaft from a S77 and even in that the numbers were identical to the 770. There are some things on the 1550 that are different from the 770. Such as the injection system and some parts on the cylinder head. The 770 D had a 3.5 inch piston where the 1550 had a 3 & 5/8 in. However, 1550 sleeves and pistons will fit into the 770 engine. Larry
Wiring Diagram for Super 88
IP: 158.116.158.130 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 01:36:36 PM by Bob Christiansen
Larry, I did the unthinkable and detached my starter switch because it did not work and after 4 months finally went back to put the new one on. Well, I failed to mark the starter, battery and amp meter wires that came off the switch and now I forgot how they are to go back on the two switch posts. Do you have a wiring diagram or can you explain how they hook back up?
Re(1): Wiring Diagram for Super 88
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 10:45:04 PM by Larry Harsin
You should get an Operator's Manual from Charles City at: hpocacc@fiai.net and all that would be explained in there. The posts on the switch are marked and the post that says Bat comes from the ammeter, the post that says Sol goes to the Starter solonoid and the Ign goes to the coil. Larry
1900 series C Oliver Tractor Wheel Seal
IP: 67.210.6.47 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 04:38:50 AM by J.W. Rogers
Larry: How do you replace a wheel seal on a 1900 C Wheatland Tractor. It has very wide tires and a 2500# wheel weight. I do not have the slighest clue on how to do this. I have an ITT shop manuel but it hasn't been any help.
Re(1): 1900 series C Oliver Tractor Wheel Seal
IP: 209.163.7.86 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 06:47:34 AM by Larry Harsin
The wheel has to be removed from the axle. It is a tapered hub with a key and you'll have to use a big puller. It is one heck of a job!! You'll have to have a hoist or some way to handle things. Larry
S55 lack of oil
IP: 216.86.83.182 Posted on September 15, 2002 at 07:01:24 PM by Don
When I bought the tractor it was in pieces. The motor was already rebuilt by a mencanhic that builds stock car engines, so I asume he knows what he is doing. I am not getting any oil pressuer from the pump to the fillter. It was the old pump so after checking the relief valve and passage, I tryed replacing the pump with a new one. Still no pressure, it is pumping oil I check the relief again it is working fine. Is there a plug missing behind the timing gears? I have manual and parts book, the parts book does not show a plug there, but I can fish a soft copper wire over one inch to the front thur the relief valve opening. The parts book shows the front on engine without the timing gear cover on and it looks like there is. thanks
Re(1): S55 lack of oil
IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on September 15, 2002 at 09:22:03 PM by Larry Harsin
There is a plug in there behind the timing gear to plug that one oil gallery. In fact, there is more than one. You need to find out where the oil is going. I'd check the easy things first. Are all the top halves of the main bearings in place? If they are o.k. there is apparently is a plug missing in the front of the block. Larry
S55 lack of oil
IP: 216.86.87.212 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 06:57:30 PM by Don
I pulled the timing cover, in line with the relief valve behind the edge of the cam timing gear there is a hole about 1/4" that is open. Should this be pluged? It is inline with the oil passage.
Re(1): S55 lack of oil
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on September 16, 2002 at 10:52:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, I think so. Larry
S55 lack of oil
IP: 216.86.87.225 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 07:20:35 PM by Don
I plug the hole, started it up ran about 30 sec no pressure, pulled the gauge line lose and it just slowly drips. Removed the filter right away and there was some oil in it ,but it did not over flow the base. How long should it take to build pressure? I am 99 % sure the releif valve is fully closed. Any sugestions? I am stumped
Re(1): S55 lack of oil
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 10:21:53 PM by Larry Harsin
First of all, that thing should start building pressure about 5 seconds after it starts. Did someone have the oil pump apart? If so, you should get a shop manual and get the correct order of the veins in the pump. You may have a broken spring that holds the veins out against the side of the pump. I've never seen one broken, but there is something not right there. Did you check the main bearings on the crank shaft and make sure they are all installed? Larry
Re(2): S55 lack of oil
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 10:26:25 PM by Larry Harsin
I went back and reviewed our earlier posts. With a new pump, you won't have the veins problem. I feel that there is another passage that is not yet plugged. Larry
S55 lack of oil
IP: 216.86.81.116 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 04:57:51 AM by Don
I know this is asking alot, but is there any enginnering drawings of the S55 block out there?
Re(1): S55 lack of oil
IP: 209.163.7.99 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 07:32:41 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Mary Ann Townsend at the Floyd County Museum in Charles City IA: fchs@fiai.net. When the Oliver Plant closed out at Charles City, they donated tons of paperwork to the local museum. If anyone would have these drawings, it would probably be them. Larry
1855 hydrostatic steering
IP: 12.15.56.240 Posted on September 14, 2002 at 12:10:42 AM by Dale Orf
I recently bought this tractor. The cover on the hydrostatic steering was broken. I had it welded and it broke again. When you turn the steering wheel either direction the wheels turn, but something catches. The hydrostat tries to turn. What is making it do this?
Re(1): 1855 hydrostatic steering
IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on September 15, 2002 at 09:17:47 PM by Larry Harsin
There is something broken inside that is wedging that when you turn it. You will have to disassemble it and determine what is broken. I have parts when you find out what you need, or I have a whole steering cylinder. Email me if you want any of this from me. Larry
Hub Bolts
IP: 216.144.8.157 Posted on September 13, 2002 at 05:18:26 PM by Ted
Hi Larry, Do you know of a source for square headed fine thread bolts.I need 4 for my Oliver 70 rear wheel hubs. Thanks.
Re(1): Hub Bolts
IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on September 15, 2002 at 09:14:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. It is a special bolt and hard to find. Larry
770 Diesel missing
IP: 64.33.181.117 Posted on September 12, 2002 at 06:58:55 PM by Paul A. Ramey
I picked up a 1959 770 diesel with factory 3 point from a friend. When I started checking it out I found that the motor is a 1550 or 1600, early version. The tractor starts hard unless it is warmed up. It also has white smoke and smokes black, like it is under a load till it is warmed up. It also misses or hesitates till it is up to temp. Do I have a valve or a injector sticking? I also noticed that I am getting a small amount of black fluid or fuel leaking from the intake manifold where it meets the head on one of the cylinders. BTW: the tractor runs great and has plenty of power.
Re(1): 770 Diesel missing
IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on September 13, 2002 at 06:18:05 AM by Larry Harsin
My experience has been that it can be injectors or valves either one. You probably have low compression and the engine probably just needs to be overhauled. I'd say there is a 75% chance that you just need to do this. The black fluid is unburned fuel. Larry
88 OLIVER SIDE PANEL
IP: 216.187.241.202 Posted on September 12, 2002 at 11:51:23 AM by HARDEN
NEED A SET OF 88 OLIVER SIDE PANELS HARDEN PH. # (336) 446-6817
Re(1): 88 OLIVER SIDE PANEL
IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on September 13, 2002 at 06:13:30 AM by Larry Harsin
I am out of them right now. You can get new ones from Richard Lynch in Eaton OH PH: 937-456-6686. Larry
doggie super55
IP: 67.194.40.62 Posted on September 11, 2002 at 06:14:19 PM by Wil
Mr. Harsin, my super55 was running great. Pulling, brush hogging, etc. Then it just started spittin and sputtering. I looked at the points and plugs, etc. Didn't look like they were changed in a while sooooooooo, with the help of another,I changed plugs, points, wires, rotor, cap, condensor. In the process, the carb was also " adjusted " ( altho I don't think very well ) any way. She will start easy, idle fine. But when I put a load on. She bucks, skips, bogs down. And finally stalls. any help for her? Thanks alot. Wil Thomas
Re(1): doggie super55
IP: 209.163.7.86 Posted on September 11, 2002 at 09:53:49 PM by Larry Harsin
Take the fuel strainer out of the fuel tank and see if it is plugged. Larry
Super 55 3-pt. lift arm
IP: 156.99.90.179 Posted on September 10, 2002 at 12:05:17 AM by Brad
Larry- I need an adjustable lift arm for a 1956 Super 55. I am not sure if "lift arm" is the correct name for the part, but I need the arm the adjusts the height of the hitch when you turn the crank. The crank on the arm turns, and the height does adjust, but when you lift an implement with the three point hitch, the threads on the arm do not catch the threads inside the outer part of the arm. I plan on welding the outer and inner part of the arm together to keep any implements level. But I thought I would check and see if anyone had a replacement part first. The local Olliver parts dealer says that that particular part is not made anymore. I would assume this part would be the same on a 550, but maybe not. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Re(1): Super 55 3-pt. lift arm
IP: 209.163.7.33 Posted on September 11, 2002 at 06:55:28 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact T.H.E. Co. (Tom Hassenfritz Equip Co) at 800-634-4882. The part for the Ford 3 pt. is the same part. Larry
Re(2): Super 55 3-pt. lift arm
IP: 216.86.82.243 Posted on September 13, 2002 at 10:14:36 PM by probe
the 550 was a updated supper 55, most parts are the same,inculeding the 3 point. the arms are the same as a ford, try to match a 800 series
wiring
IP: 63.147.8.194 Posted on September 8, 2002 at 07:54:35 PM by Larry
I just purchased an old Oliver Super 55 tractor and I want to restore it but the wiring is all messed up and hanging from everywhere, do you have a wiring diagram I could use to wire it back up?
Re(1): wiring
IP: 209.163.7.30 Posted on September 9, 2002 at 06:54:21 AM by Larry Harsin
Get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. All the diagrams will be in there. You can get one by emailing Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net There will be a charge of approx $25, but you will learn all the information about your tractor. Larry
oliver 1550 for sale
IP: 216.68.39.163 Posted on September 7, 2002 at 12:55:05 AM by Dale
Hello Larry, Great website. I have a question for you about a 1550 tractor I have found for sale. The owner is asking $1800 for it and says it needs an oil pump, but was not run without oil pressure. They said it was rebuilt 400 hrs ago and is ready for another rebuild. I really want to get an oliver and am mechanically inclined...but want get some use out of it before a total restoration. Any advice you give is much appreciated. Here is a link to the tractor. http://charles-dusty.tripod.com/dustysfarm/oliver_1550.html Thanks agian, Dale
Re(1): oliver 1550 for sale
IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on September 7, 2002 at 09:48:32 PM by Larry Harsin
The rebuild 400 hrs. ago must not have been much of a rebuild. On a 1550 rebuild, you should get at least 4000 hrs. I went to the website and looked at the pictures. If I were you, I'd buy the tractor. It says it runs. Let me know what you decide. Good Luck! Larry
carb
IP: 209.145.80.110 Posted on September 6, 2002 at 08:08:47 PM by hpayne
i am looking for a carberator for a 1963 440 oliver tractor. can any help? thanks HWP
Re(1): carb
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on September 7, 2002 at 07:04:38 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have this carb. Check with Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276. Larry
Oliver parts-catalogs
IP: 63.234.53.23 Posted on September 6, 2002 at 02:50:33 PM by Kimberly
Dear Larry, When our grandfather past-away he left behind some old (1931-1960) Oliver Parts Books. I don't have any knowledge of these wonderful treasures & I am wondering if you could help to point me in the right direction....Do you know where I could find out if there would be any buyers for such a thing, or how much some of these books would sell for now?
Re(1): Oliver parts-catalogs
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on September 7, 2002 at 07:01:34 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Jerry Erickson at Rt. 1 Box 146, Lyle, MN 50131 or Clarence Goodburn at Rt. 2 Box 157, Madelia MN 56062-9531. They buy and sell Oliver Literature and could answer this question better than I. There are others also. Price depends on many things - one of them being condition or what machine they are for etc. Larry
Need Super77 manifold
IP: 63.164.209.54 Posted on September 6, 2002 at 12:48:44 AM by Greg Raser
Howdy from Illinois ! A friend has a broken exhaust manifold on his Super77 [gas] tractor. Anyone got one laying around ?
Re(1): Need Super77 manifold
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on September 7, 2002 at 06:53:43 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl.800-320-6224. Larry
What year is it?
IP: 24.194.137.99 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 08:33:58 PM by Brian
I just picked up a 550 Deisel with a loader and Backhoe. I have the numbers off the plate and was wondering if you can tell me the year. # 89 212-503.
Re(1): What year is it?
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 06:48:12 AM by Larry Harsin
Your 550 D was built in 1960. Larry
Oil Filter "Straw"
IP: 216.144.8.92 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 08:30:47 PM by T Reed
Are the Oliver 70's supposed to have a tube going into the center of the oil filter from the filter mounting base? If so,can you press in a short length of steel brake line to replace a missing tube? Thanks
Re(1): Oil Filter
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 06:46:48 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, they are supposed to have a tube. You can use a length of steel brake line as a replacement. There is a restrictor disc that sits below that tube. Check to see if that little disc is still in there. If it isn't, you'll have a problem. I'll check to see if I have one of these repair kits. Otherwise, I have a complete Filter Base for $20 plus shipping. Larry
parts
IP: 67.193.156.42 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 04:38:56 PM by Wil Thomas
Mr. Harsin, can you direct me to a place where I can purchase a carburator repair kit for a super55 with the Schebler carb? and other parts as needed. ( points, coil, oil filter, etc. ) Thanks for your help! Wil
Re(1): parts
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 06:42:17 AM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
550 gears
IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 03:28:46 PM by paul
Larry I have a 550 in 2nd and 4th gear you can hear a thump. It seems like it makes the thump 1 time a rpm. Also i need the governor control from under the steering wheel all the way to the bottom of bat. Can you help? Thanks Paul
Re(1): 550 gears
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 06:40:56 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 899-320-6224. Larry
88 ROW CROP
IP: 216.187.241.202 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 09:10:45 AM by HARDEN PHIPPS
NEED A SET OF SIDE MOTOR PANELS FOR A 88 ROW CROP
Re(1): 88 ROW CROP
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 08:22:07 AM by Larry Harsin
I have a pair in average condition for $125 plus shipping. If you are interested in these, email me your address so I can figure shipping. Larry
770 Grill
IP: 205.204.242.23 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 08:58:37 AM by Jerry B
I need a 770 grill, early bar type or "egg crate" type if that is all I can get. How much?
Re(1): 770 Grill
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 06:38:23 AM by Larry Harsin
I have one that I want $75 plus shipping. Email me if you want this. Larry
Oliver 66 Oil Pump Housing
IP: 162.74.52.180 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 07:44:45 AM by Dan W.
Larry, I have a 1953 Oliver 66 RowCrop and I need to pull a cracked oil pump housing out of the engine block. (This housing encapsulates the pump shaft and oil veins and is what the oil intake is bolted onto.) I have removed four bolts that hold the mesh covered oil intake, the intake itself, the two spring-loaded oil veins from the shaft/pump, and the single bolt that holds the housing up in the block. Now that I have removed the housing bolt, the housing still seems stuck up in the block. How do I go about removing this housing and pump shaft? Am I missing something obvious? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards, Dan
Re(1): Oliver 66 Oil Pump Housing
IP: 162.74.52.180 Posted on September 3, 2002 at 10:09:39 AM by Dan W.
Larry, One more thing, just to be on the safe side, when looking up at the pump from the bottom of the motor, which way should the veins be installed? Do the veins run clockwise or counterclockwise, and should the angle on the veins be facing the direction that the pump turns? Thanks in advance. Your website is great! You always have a lot of good information and advice! Thanks again, Dan
Re(1): Oliver 66 Oil Pump Housing
IP: 209.163.7.99 Posted on September 4, 2002 at 08:32:47 AM by Larry Harsin
The first thing to do before taking the distributor out, is turn the engine until the pointer on the rotor is pointing at number 1 spark plug. Then, remove the distributor and note from the top, the location of the slot that drives the distributor. Then if you have the oil pump retaining bolt removed from the bottom, take a punch and a hammer and tap on the oil pump drive gear from the top and drive it down. When looking from the bottom, that pump turns counter clockwise. So the flat square edge on the vein will be facing the rotation. The angled edge will be on the trailing side. I hope this helps. If you need to know more, just let us know. All of this is covered in the I & T Shop Manual. If you want one, you can get it from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA by emailing Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net. When the Oliver Plant closed out, they gave all that paper work to the local Museum. The regular Oliver Service Manuals are very expensive (approx. $300) and cover several different tractors. The I & T Manual is cheaper - it is approx. $25. Larry
Hydraulics
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on September 2, 2002 at 03:54:45 PM by Kevin
Hello, I have an Oliver 1250-A tractor. The lift doesn't work all the time. We took the mower deck off and the arms flopped down. We thought that it needed more hydraulic fluid so we added some and it lifted the mower deck a little. Then we added more hydraulic oil and it lifted it up all the way. We mowed with it and it worked a few times but now it does not want to lift. I just spent a lot of money on the tractor to have the clutch repaired. My friend thought that maybe something happened when they broke the tractor in two but they broke it in the front part for the clutch and the lift did work when we added more oil. by the way the dipstick for the oil says Normale and sollevatore but it seems like the operator's manual points toward the top of the dipstick. Thanks for your help.
Re(1): Hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on September 2, 2002 at 09:06:18 PM by Larry Harsin
You may want to check the oil filter for the hydraulic. It might be getting plugged. Look in your Operator's Manual for how to do this, or you may want to consider getting a Service Manual for this tractor. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry
Installing Sleeves
IP: 216.144.8.79 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 07:41:19 PM by T Reed
Im going to install new sleeves in a 66.Should they slide right in by hand without tapping?How carried away should I get with cleaning the O-RING area?Also,the old manuals say to use white lead paste on assembly - What is the correct grease etc to use currently? Thanks
Re(1): Installing Sleeves
IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on September 2, 2002 at 06:13:27 AM by Larry Harsin
You shouldn't have to force them. Take emery cloth or sand paper and clean thoroughly all the surfaces where that sleeve sits. Then try fitting the new sleeve into the block without the "O" rings. It should go in with it's own weight. There should be enough protrusion to catch you fingernail. After you have this to this stage, install the "O" rings on the sleeves and be sure the "O" rings are not twisted. Take a wooden pencil and place it under the "O" ring on the sleeve and run it around the sleeve so that the "O" will straighten itself and not be twisted. Then coat the surfaces of the block with liquid soap (like dish soap) and coat the sleeve with the "O" rings on it with soap and install it. You will have to press the sleeves into place, perhaps tap very gently, but they should slide right in. The soap replaces the white lead paste. Larry
77 DIESEL
IP: 12.87.141.13 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 07:05:43 PM by DAN LONG
IM THINKING ABOUT PUTTING A POWER BOOSTER DRIVE IN A 51 77 DIESEL. WILL IT FIT ? AND HOW MUCH WILL EXPECT TO PAY FOR ALL THE PARTS TO INSTALL IT.ALL I DO WITH THIS TRACTOR IS PULL IT. Re(1): 77 DIESEL
IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on September 2, 2002 at 06:02:57 AM by Larry Harsin
It might not. The frame (the bathtub) might not allow it. You'll just have to see - you may have to grind away some of the frame. A used power booster unit, bell housing, maybe an engine backing plate......anywhere from $250 - $450 for a used unit. A new sprague clutch for that unit is over $300. Larry
Re(1): 77 DIESEL
IP: 12.87.141.3 Posted on September 2, 2002 at 06:39:09 PM by DAN LONG
THANKS LARRY [SOUNDS PRICEY] MAYBE I'LL TRY A TURBO INSTEAD. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON A TURBO?
Re(2): 77 DIESEL
IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on September 2, 2002 at 09:00:38 PM by Larry Harsin
I wouldn't put a power booster in it anyway. I have no ideas about a Turbo for that tractor. Possibly Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
oc12 injectors
IP: 142.166.236.212 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 08:57:29 AM by Brent
i've found an old oc12 crawler,yr unknown. The farmer says it was running but the injectors were too weak to work it. Also tells me the're too expensive to replace. is this true, if not how much should they cost?
Re(1): oc12 injectors
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 10:41:58 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Landis Zimmerman at: zoc@att.net. He is the Crawler expert and can answer these questions better than I. Larry
Olivers on the Dyno
IP: 216.166.193.126 Posted on August 31, 2002 at 11:04:56 AM by Jim
Larry, when we dyno Oliver tractors we need to pull the PTO rpm's down to 500 to get to the tractor's rated HP. This is not the case with other makes of tractors (IH, Case, Deere). Other makes are in their HP rating area at 540 PTO rpm. Someone suggested a gov. adjustment problem but this is the case on a 77, 88, 80, and two 70's. Just wondering what your thoughts might be. Thanks for any input you may have. I enjoy reading your Q&A section. Jim T
Re(1): Olivers on the Dyno
IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 04:55:47 AM by Larry Harsin
Perhaps the governors are all worn on these tractors. They are old. If I can't get the governor to open up completely at 540, the first thing I adjust is the high no-load speed to the reccomended setting. Check the linkage adjustment between the governor arm and the carburator to make sure it is correct. If this doesn't help, you'll have to disassemble the governor and replace worn parts. Glad you enjoy our website. We enjoy hearing from all of you. Larry
oil lube gun
IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on August 31, 2002 at 09:49:52 AM by polk crawler
Where would I look to find an oil lube gun for use on idlers and rollers on a crawler? Alemite has volume pumps but I have no need for equipment of that magnitude. Would auto or tractor supply sources have a gun suitable for my needs?
Re(1): oil lube gun
IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 04:48:22 AM by Larry Harsin
I would think they would have them. I have a large one that I bought at an auction. Larry
oliver 1955 steering cyl.
IP: 209.23.99.249 Posted on August 31, 2002 at 08:08:46 AM by Karl
Larry, due ti a brainfade on my part 3 yrs ago I broke th epower steering cylinder on my 1955. I purchased a used one from local dealer with pitman shaft, new center arm & tie rod ends. Since then it has broken the steering cylinder cap (3) times. Everything appears to be operating correctly, Do you have any suggestions. Also do you know if the pinion & cylinder are a matched set or not. Thanks in advance for any help.
Re(1): oliver 1955 steering cyl.
IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 04:45:57 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't believe that the pinion & cylinder are necessarily a matched set. I've not had a problem like you describe and I don't know what is causing it. I'd be inclined to try another complete cylinder assembly and pinion. Check the operating pressure of the steering system. Set the pressure at 2200 lbs. You might be getting too much pressure in there. Perhaps someone may have set that pressure up too high. Larry
Re(2): oliver 1955 steering cyl.
IP: 66.46.141.62 Posted on September 5, 2002 at 06:48:03 PM by lyle
check to see if the shaft down happens to be broke on an angle binding and pushing the cap up
77 dsl side panels
IP: 155.80.89.13 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 02:16:59 PM by shannon phelps
how much are you asking for the pair of front engine side panels for a 77 diesel?
Re(1): 77 dsl side panels
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 08:54:34 PM by Larry Harsin
I am asking $350 plus shipping. Email me if you are interested. Larry
oliver 77
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 12:40:25 AM by Mike F
I just got an 77 oliver, it seems to run good, what hp is it? it is a 1949 from what I can tell, it has no hyrualics, has cast rears but will be switched to tin wheel, I want to pull it some , could you tell me what they weigh with tin wheels and what would be needed done to the engine . It seems to have good power, also do you have a dash panel that is good and a steering wheel, is so how much. thank you Mike.
Re(1): oliver 77
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 08:52:48 PM by Larry Harsin
Your 77 is approx. 40 hp. With tin wheels, they would weigh approx. 4000 lbs. Try it out on a dynomometer and see how it works. Check the spark plugs, points, air cleaner, adjust the valves, etc. I think I have a dash panel, I'll check it out in the morning and email you. I have new steering wheels or used ones. Larry
Hydraulic lift pump
IP: 209.205.150.27 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 11:42:19 AM by Scotty graves
Where can I find a rebuild kit for a Hydraulic lift pump. 1968 Oliver 550 Diesel
Re(1): Hydraulic lift pump
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 08:47:57 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He has a lot of 550 parts. Larry
WHAT MODEL IS THIS IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on August 29, 2002 at 09:11:49 PM by ALFREDO ESPERICUETA
HELLO LARRY, I RECENTLY BOUGHT AN OLIVER TRACTOR ANDI DONT KNOW WHAT MODEL IT IS. I KNOW ITS A SIX CYLINDER THREE POINT HITCH HYDROLICS DIESEL 6-SPEED TRANSMISION BLOCK #1071872 ENGINE I.D. 16-1740B I ALSO WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR WEB SIGHT I GOT MANY ANSWERS TO ALOT OF QUESTIONS HERE. CAN YOU ALSO TELL ME WHERE I COULD LOOK FOR AN OVERHAUL KIT FOR THIS TRACTOR. BY THE WAY ITS A TRICYCLE.
Re(1): WHAT MODEL IS THIS
IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on August 29, 2002 at 10:19:05 PM by Larry Harsin
I can't detect the model of your tractor from the information given. There should be a serial number for the tractor on the serial number plate - usually it is on the dash. Does this tractor have a Bosch pump or a Roosa-Master pump? Larry
cockshutt 1750
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on August 29, 2002 at 08:42:30 PM by phil
The brakes on this 1750 don't work well. What is the usual problem and are the parts expensive to repair the problem.
Re(1): cockshutt 1750
IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on August 29, 2002 at 10:13:51 PM by Larry Harsin
Take the covers off and blow out the accumulated dust and dirt. You may have to sandpaper the brake surfaces. If the discs have excessive wear, they'll have to be replaced. Larry
Re(1): cockshutt 1750
IP: 216.58.70.43 Posted on September 1, 2002 at 07:58:36 PM by Dsl
Sunuvagun--it won't let you post the full name, and it's NOT a name to be ashamed of!
steering wheel
IP: 207.19.167.18 Posted on August 29, 2002 at 05:29:26 AM by dave lickly
I have a 77 diesel. Where can I get the steering wheel repaired? The plastic is cracked. Thanks
Re(1): steering wheel
IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on August 29, 2002 at 10:11:32 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get yours repaired at Minn-Kota www.minnkotarepair.com ($123). You can get a new one from Steiner cheaper ($85). www.steinertractor.com. Larry
Re(2): steering wheel
IP: 216.114.96.61 Posted on August 30, 2002 at 06:10:26 AM by Anonymous
Korves Oliver also have new wheels for $80.00. www.korvesoliver.com
1950
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on August 28, 2002 at 06:57:29 PM by Chris Maney
M/N 195-2312 S/N 163-180-411 I am getting this tractor ready for the Nittany Antique Machinery Show scheduled for Sept. 5-8, 2002 in Centre Hall, PA. This years featured manufacturer is the Oliver family. Q1: Is there a web site to provide s/n translation? Q2: The Direct Drive/ Hydra-power knob is frozen in Direct Drive. Any remedies? Thanks.
Re(1): 1950
IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on August 28, 2002 at 09:28:20 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know of a web site as you describe. I looked up your serial number and your tractor was built in 1965. On your Direct Drive - Where the lever pivots on the pin on the side of the unit, it is probably frozen. Take some penetrating oil and free it up. Larry
80 Belt Pully
IP: 204.58.233.6 Posted on August 28, 2002 at 11:22:35 AM by Eric Allen
Larry, I see you have an 80 belt pully listed for sale. I was wondering if you also had the drive assembly on hand and if so, what are you asking for the pair. Thanks Eric
Re(1): 80 Belt Pully
IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on August 28, 2002 at 09:23:55 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have the drive, I just have the pulley. If you want it, email me. Larry
Radiator
IP: 216.73.206.98 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 09:01:13 PM by Hoyes
Looking for a radiator for a 1550 Oliver tractor - '67. Will anything else fit it?
Re(1): Radiator
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on August 28, 2002 at 06:40:33 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't think so. There is a tag on the radiator (put on by the manufacturer). Email those numbers to me. (cobalt@rconnect.com) I may have a radiator that will fit your tractor. Also, measure the size of the hose connections on the radiator. Larry
770
IP: 64.83.160.22 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 07:32:20 PM by Dan
What are the torque specs for the head of the 770?
Re(1): 770
IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on August 28, 2002 at 06:36:17 AM by Larry Harsin
100 ft. lbs. Larry
Paint question
IP: 198.146.112.168 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 10:35:18 AM by Jack Feller
I am restoring a 1950-T, and am going to get someone to paint the sheet metal for me. How would you do it, by getting decals or to have the man paint everything. I think it would look better if it was painted all over without the look of the shiny decals that would be put on.
Re(1): Paint question
IP: 208.129.184.125 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 12:04:37 AM by Anonymous
You should get decals so it will be like original. The new vinyl die cut decals will not be shiny as you are probably thinking of the old style mylar decals. Call or contact Dumont's for your decals e-mail@ oliver@lisco.com Dumont Decals
Re(2): Paint question
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 05:55:58 PM by Larry Harsin
I would concur. Lyle makes great decals. Larry
oliver 60 standard
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 09:11:11 PM by mark
I"m in need of an engine for a 60 standard...can i change it out with a row crop?
Re(1): oliver 60 standard
IP: 209.163.7.98 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 06:01:24 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, you can put a 60 RC engine in a 60 Standard. Larry
88 SERIAL #
IP: 216.187.241.202 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 12:36:37 AM by HARDEN PHIPPS
HAVE LOOKED ON THE RT. SIDE OF TRANSMISSION AND ON LOWER LEFT OF DASH.UNABLE TO LOCATE SERIAL #. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Re(1): 88 SERIAL #
IP: 209.163.7.49 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 02:40:43 PM by Larry Harsin
The tag has probably been removed. Look on the bottom of the transmission casting. There should be a casting date on it. Larry
770 tractor
IP: 207.192.209.92 Posted on August 25, 2002 at 09:50:47 PM by Leon Freund
Do you have clutch adjustment information and info on how to make the transmission quieter. Thank you. Leon Freund
Re(1): 770 tractor
IP: 209.163.7.49 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 02:38:53 PM by Larry Harsin
The clutch adjustment information should be in your Operator's Manual. If you don't have one, contact Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net. You should also ask Mary Ann for a I & T Shop Manual for the 770. Larry
cockshutt 1750
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on August 25, 2002 at 09:20:07 PM by Philip Diehl
Larry, Thinking about buying a Cockshut 1750.4000 hr.s, new rubber,very good tin, gas engine sounds good. Does not want to steer below about 1500 rpm, needs brakes. Think I could purchase this tractor without gettin hurt to badly. Also, with the hyda unit, is hydra over or under? Thanks Larry. Phil
Re(1): cockshutt 1750
IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on August 25, 2002 at 10:55:52 PM by Larry Harsin
The hydra-power is direct drive and under. On the steering: your trouble might be your flow divider on the regulator spool side. Remove the cap and withdraw the spring and work the spool back and forth until you can get it completely seated. You may have to use some Crocus Cloth to smooth up the rough spots on the regulator spool. Get it so that it slides in and out freely and seats in the bottom without binding. This should help you. Larry
Front Steering
IP: 216.95.137.48 Posted on August 23, 2002 at 07:35:56 PM by Richard
I have a 66 and 77 standard tractors. The steering in the 77 is a worm and rack. I replaced the taperred bearings in the worm. Also i replaced the king pins. It is still very very hard to steer. What else can I do? When moving it will turn with less effort but sitting still you need both arms and put your body into it. The 66 is has a saginaw steering in it. It has become hard to turn also What about this one? Thanks Richard
Re(1): Front Steering
IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on August 25, 2002 at 10:49:30 PM by Larry Harsin
The 77 will always steer harder than the 66. If the 66 is turning hard, you will just have to take it apart and see what is worn and try to replace it. Those 66 parts are getting harder to find. You have done about all you can do with the 77. They just steer harder. Larry
Model 70 Oliver
IP: 63.173.222.110 Posted on August 23, 2002 at 05:50:57 PM by Emily
My stepfather recently purchased one of these that hasn't been running for a few years but is in good shape. He plans to get it running and resell it he fixes tractors for a living. He doesn't have a computer and I don't live nearby could you tell me who he could contact to sell it. He lives in southern New Jersey. Thank you
Re(1): Model 70 Oliver
IP: 63.173.222.110 Posted on August 23, 2002 at 06:09:29 PM by Emily
Found out a little more trying to figure out the year. He says the rear tires are rubber 12.4-38 and it has a six volt system in it
Re(2): Model 70 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on August 25, 2002 at 10:44:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Emily. You can find a serial number on a tag on the left side of the engine block on your 70. Email that number to me, and I will tell you what year it was built. The best place to sell the 70 would be in the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine. You can put an ad in it by emailing Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. There is a 50 word limit and a charge of 25 cents a word. Larry
Re(3): Model 70 Oliver
IP: 63.173.222.126 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 08:35:46 AM by Emily
The serial # is 263293
Re(4): Model 70 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.49 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 02:43:31 PM by Larry Harsin
Your 70 is one of the last ones they made. It was built in 1948. Larry
880 Generator
IP: 63.150.246.195 Posted on August 21, 2002 at 11:56:24 AM by Mark
Larry, I have a 1958 880 gas. I am having problems with battery charging. I tried adjusting the voltage regulator with no luck. I'd like to put on a new alternator. What type of alternator would work best? I know I'll have to make mounting changes, but what type of modifications to electrical connections or wiring must be done. Thanks for your input, Mark
Re(1): 880 Generator
IP: 209.163.7.49 Posted on August 21, 2002 at 11:47:00 PM by Larry Harsin
There is a conversion kit in the T.H.E. Co. catalog with instructions on how to install it. 800-634-4885. It is $65. Larry
parts
IP: 63.178.124.176 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 09:54:55 PM by Craig T. Richards
Hi; I Volenteer at a scout camp and we have a Oliver Super 55, I wanted to know where I could find parts for it at an affordable price esspecially since we're looking for the oil pump filter cap, if you could help me in this matter I would greatly appreciate it.
Re(1): parts
IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on August 21, 2002 at 05:20:51 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
1655 Diesel
IP: 12.13.248.4 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 01:18:21 PM by Pete in Ks
I was working some ground with a 10 offset disc. I was pulling in 3rd gear mainly for the speed I wanted to travel and I noticed a vibration I could feel through the seat. The tractor was not under a major load and I could feel it whether I was in over/under or direct. I shifted into 4th gear under and the vibration was not there. My question: Is it just a 3rd gear problem or do I have bigger problems coming? I very seldom use 3rd gear as it is mainly a loader tractor to feed with, but if it could lead to bigger problems I want to correct it now. Thanks Pete PS I noticed you have 2 new tractors, a 1955 and a 1755w/loader for sale. I am looking for a larger unit with cab and would like to know your asking price for those tractors.
Re(1): 1655 Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on August 21, 2002 at 05:19:16 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know for sure. Symptoms like that can drive you nuts trying to find them. Just go ahead and use it, making sure all your oil levels are correct. The first thing I would check is the chain coupling between the engine and the transmission. While you are looking at the chain coupling, you might be able to check the alignment between the drive unit and the transmission. A lot of the tractors have a bolt that screws through the bottom of the tractor main frame and pushes against the bottom of the hydraul to help align it with the transmission. You might try adjusting this slightly. Is the harmonic balancer on the engine loose? I don't have any other ideas, just sort of keep tabs on things and see what happens. The 1955 is $9750. The 1755 with the loader is $8750. Larry
'67 1850 Oliver Farm Tractor
IP: 152.121.36.65 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 10:41:40 AM by "Chief"
I'm a city boy, but a Marine Diesel Mechanic by trade. I assist a friend of mine with his farm equipment. The other day his '67 1850 Oliver w/ 92 hp Perkins stuck in reverse and we are unable to disengage it. Clutch pressure feels good. Linkages seem to be set good. This happened all of a sudden. Am I looking at taking this apart to determine the cause? Or is there a secret out there?
Re(1): '67 1850 Oliver Farm Tractor
IP: 209.163.7.66 Posted on August 21, 2002 at 05:08:39 AM by Larry Harsin
You will have to take the top off the transmission and have a look. Something may have broken or a bolt came loose down in the shifting mechanism. Just take a look and see what is in there. Without the tractor running, you could jack up one wheel and try rocking the wheel back and forth while someone else tries to get it out of gear. See if that will disengage it first, before you take the transmission cover off. Larry
Re(2): '67 1850 Oliver Farm Tractor
IP: 152.121.36.65 Posted on August 26, 2002 at 10:08:34 AM by "Chief"
The clutch housing was found half full of water after pressure washing the tractor. I pulled the engine and disassembled the clutch. To discover, the semi-metalic/ceramic button clutch plate had "Rusted" to the Flywheel and Pressure plate, making this "Full Time Direct Drive". No drain line or drain hole is present in the clutch housing. Believe I will wire wheel things up a bit, lightly grease up the input shaft, insert a drain hole in the bottom of the clutch housing, and begin reassembly.
1650 DIESEL
IP: 207.218.232.196 Posted on August 19, 2002 at 09:46:04 PM by KIM
HI LARRY MY STARTER IS NOT ENGAGING WITH THE FLY WHEEL AND MY BATTERY IS IN GOOD SHAPE ARE THERE ANY ADJUSTMENTS I COULD MAKE THANKS, KIM
Re(1): 1650 DIESEL
IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 06:53:15 AM by Larry Harsin
Your starter driveclutch might be shot. Otherwise, your solenoid might be bad. Larry
Re(2): 1650 DIESEL
IP: 208.10.124.87 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 11:39:49 AM by Larry from Maryland
On my 1650 there is an adjustment between the selonid and the drive gear which will push the gear in farther.The book says to slide the gear out to the end of the starter and adjust it to be 3/8 of an inch from the end of the starter.On mine I had to go a little closer so it would stay engaged.This only works if you have a diesel.
Re(3): 1650 DIESEL
IP: 207.218.232.232 Posted on August 27, 2002 at 10:17:21 PM by KIM
HI LARRY I DID AS YOU SAID AND IT WORKS GREAT!!!!!! THANK YOU, KIM
70 PTO
IP: 204.58.233.1 Posted on August 19, 2002 at 04:41:15 PM by Eric Allen
The PTO on my 70 will not stay engaged. What needs done to fix this? Thanks
Re(1): 70 PTO
IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 06:51:09 AM by Larry Harsin
Take the power lift unit off the transmission housing to find what it wrong. There may be a broken poppit spring or something has come loose or the bushing in the drive gear may have worn enough to cause it to not stay engaged. Larry
LOADER
IP: 207.218.214.41 Posted on August 19, 2002 at 09:41:17 AM by KIM
HI LARRY I HAVE A 1650 DEISAL WITH THE OLIVER 1610 THAT I JUST WROTE YOU ABOUT CAN I HOOK UP SOME DIFFERENT TYPE SYSTEM OR PUMP TO GET BETTER PERFORMANCE OR CAN YOU BEEF UP THE PUMP IN THE TRACTOR ?? THANK YOU, KIM
Re(1): LOADER
IP: 209.163.7.97 Posted on August 20, 2002 at 06:49:02 AM by Larry Harsin
You can use an external control valve and hook into the power beyond. The loader will work a lot smoother and better. You have to block the passage between the pump and the first control valve and take the oil out and put it into another port. This is not going to fix a pump that is weak in the first place. You have to have a pump that is able to develop 1700 - 1900 p.s.i. Larry
HYDRAULICS
IP: 207.218.202.57 Posted on August 18, 2002 at 11:23:27 PM by KIM
HI LARRY ON MY 1650 DIESEL THE OLIVER 1610 FRONT END LOADER AND MY 3 PT. DON'T SEEM TO WORK UNTIL I INCREASE THE THROTTLE ABOUT HALF WAY. IS THIS NORMAL OR ARE THERE ANY ADJUST I COULD MAKE THERE IS PLENTY OF FLUID IN THE SYSTEM!! THANK YOU,KIM
Re(1): HYDRAULICS
IP: 209.163.7.46 Posted on August 19, 2002 at 07:09:38 AM by Larry Harsin
I think this is pretty normal because the power steering has priority over the rest of the functions. This causes the loader and the 3 pt. to have to wait until the p.s. is supplied with oil first before they get oil. There is a chance that the regulator spool in the P.S. flow divider may be sticking. You are going to have to screw the cap off and check to see that the spool slides to the bottom of the bore freely. It is spring loaded. You may have to get some crocus cloth and polish the spool if it has scratches or marks on it. This could be part of the problem, but not necessarily. If you havn't done so, make sure the hydraulic unit filter is good. Larry
Oliver 88
IP: 209.223.66.75 Posted on August 18, 2002 at 10:03:09 PM by Justin Gordon
I recently purchased a 88 tractor with severely worn rings. I have the pistons, crank, cam, and head off an 880 and was wondering if these would bolt on with minimal modifications? Also would the pistons fit without having to bore the motor? Thanks.
Re(1): Oliver 88
IP: 209.163.7.46 Posted on August 19, 2002 at 07:01:13 AM by Larry Harsin
No. The crankshaft won't work. The crankshaft from an 880 will not work in an 88 block. The other parts probably will work. I think the pistons will fit also. Larry
decal's
IP: 205.188.196.38 Posted on August 16, 2002 at 03:39:40 PM by Rex Napp
trying to find decals for a 770 oliver , where can i locate some ?? also looking for manifolds for two oliver 77's and 1, 88 thanks for your help, Rex Napp ,RR#1 Box 71, winfield Pa, 17889
Re(1): decal's
IP: 209.163.7.78 Posted on August 16, 2002 at 10:09:46 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get decals from Lyle & Helen Dumont at: Oliver@lisco.com. For the manifolds, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. T.H.E. Co. has manifolds for 88's. 800-634-4885. My catalog from them is not recent and they may have them for 77's by now too. I don't know. Larry
Grease fittings on rear axle
IP: 216.178.72.155 Posted on August 16, 2002 at 09:49:00 AM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. My 1965 Oliver 770 has no grease fittings on either side on the rear axle. Do you know if they made some axles a sealed unit so you can't put grease into them? I know my 77 & 88 have them on the axle. Thank you very much for your time and help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Grease fittings on rear axle
IP: 209.163.7.19 Posted on August 16, 2002 at 10:34:06 AM by Larry Harsin
They designed that so that oil could flow out there from the differential and bull gears so they didn't need to have grease fittings anymore. They just eliminated some maintenance for owners. Larry