headgasket

IP: 65.54.97.194 Posted on July 20, 2006 at 08:16:37 PM by J Shope

oliver 1250 gas, I bought A new headgasket the old one had fire rings the new one don't, will the non ring one allow the wet cylinder to raise up and allow water to seep under and leek into the oil pan. The new gasket is thicker but no fire rings.

Re(1): headgasket IP: 67.2.249.215 Posted on July 20, 2006 at 09:46:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. It sounds like the fire rings could be incorportated as part of the head gasket. If you lay your old fire ring onto your new head gasket, you should be able to tell if this is so. If you think it isn't correct, you should return it and get the proper one. An AGCO Dealer would have one from the factory. Larry

1555

IP: 66.231.119.241 Posted on July 20, 2006 at 09:28:56 AM by wade DuBois

trying to find ext and int setting for valves for 1555 oliver is there any where i can find this info

Re(1): 1555

IP: 67.2.249.215 Posted on July 20, 2006 at 09:32:58 PM by Larry Harsin

This information is in the Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. I usually set them at 10 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust. Larry

Super 55 Hydraulics Questions

IP: 12.40.158.48 Posted on July 20, 2006 at 06:46:12 AM by Justin

Larry & Crew, Just wanted to say that this is a wonderful source of information for Oliver owners! Thank you!! I am considering purchasing a 1955 Super 55 with a Wagner loader (front pump). When I went to look at the tractor (local dealer), we couldn't get the 3-pt hydraulics to raise. The tractor is equipped with power steering and a set of external hydraulics as well. After the fluid was topped off, the power steering worked perfect and the external hydraulics would push oil when the lever was pushed. My question is this. Does this sound like an expensive pump rebuild, or something more simple (and less expensive) such as a bad quadrant linkage adjustment or an overpressure valve stuck open? Do you have any suggestions or tips that I could follow to make sure I won't get burned on the purchase. The dealer doesn't want to sink money and manpower into fixing it up and is willing to discount the tractor to a very fair price, but I can't afford to sell my tractor (Ford 8N) to purchase the S55 risking major downtime with the hydraulic system. My tractor is my only method of groundskeeping (mowing) at my home and 'tis the season to be mowing!

Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulics Questions

IP: 67.2.249.215 Posted on July 20, 2006 at 09:40:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I would suspicion that there is a weak pump. I would buy it with having to spend some money on the hydraulic, in mind. Parts availability is good. If the pump in the tractor itself (that runs the 3 pt.) is weak, it will take a pump rebuild kit. That kit is approx. $200. You can get them from AGCO or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Hydraulics Questions

IP: 12.40.158.48 Posted on July 21, 2006 at 06:40:10 AM by Justin

Thanks for the reply! Their asking price for the tractor as-is is $3500. Does this sound reasonable considering the pump may need rebuilt? It has all original tin in good shape, engine runs strong and smooth, power steering works perfect, has the aux. hydraulic hook-ups, and a great working Wagner loader (fully hydraulic) with wheel weights and fluid in tires. I found a site online showing a pump rebuild. It doesn't look hard. Is it? How difficult is it to remove the pump? One last question. What are the different settings on the aux. hydraulic control valve? There was a little dial on top that, I believe, read "lo,1,2,3,4,5,high" or something to that affect.

Re(3): Super 55 Hydraulics Questions

IP: 67.2.248.29 Posted on July 21, 2006 at 10:19:19 PM by Larry Harsin

The price sounds o.k. It's not too hard to rebuild the pump. The top has to come off of the transmission. You should get a Shop Manual for a S55 from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net That little dial is just a flow control on the tractor hydraulic control valve. It controls the speed that the tractor pumps oil. The Shop Manual will explain this too. Larry

PTO leak

IP: 64.136.26.225 Posted on July 18, 2006 at 07:11:56 PM by Jim

Hi Larry.My 1650 started to leak a little at the PTO Shaft.I was wondering if I was to remove the large snap ring and pull the shaft out,would I see a Seal? that I could replace? How long is the PTO shaft? It is a 540 rpm.Thanks for your help.Jim

Re(1): PTO leak

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on July 19, 2006 at 04:58:01 AM by Larry Harsin

There is just an "O" ring there. Replace it. If it still leaks through the bearing, you will have to replace that. It is very difficult to keep that from leaking a little bit. It is the very nature of it to be a little "wet" at that point. Larry

Super 55 oil pressure

IP: 206.132.76.194 Posted on July 18, 2006 at 07:00:46 PM by Ralf Cunningham

Larry, I recently rebuilt a 1955 Super 55 engine by putting new cylinder sleeves, pistons and bearings in. The oil pressure was low before and after the rebuild. I tried a second oil pump I had and no difference. I swapped gauges with no improvement. What should I replace next. Should I rebuild the oil pump. I even tried 40 weight oil with little improvement. When I first start the tractor and run the throttle to operating speed it reads just in the working range and slowly drops over time into low range. At idle it doesn't seem to be reading at all. Any help is greatly appreciated

Re(1): Super 55 oil pressure

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on July 19, 2006 at 04:54:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that your oil filter base is the culprit. Try an oil filter base from a 770 or get a new one. I have them if you want to email me. cobalt@rconnect.com Did you use plastic gauge to check your clearance on the main bearings? That might be off some and would cause this problem also. Larry

88

IP: 136.1.1.33 Posted on July 18, 2006 at 05:13:43 AM by Jim

I just bought an 88 that was a pulling tractor. The previous owner said it has a 1650 (gas) engine in it. How can I verify for sure that it's from a 1650? What is the difference between the 1650 engine and the original one to an 88? Jim

Re(1): 88

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on July 19, 2006 at 04:50:31 AM by Larry Harsin

On the tractors there is a part number on the block above the starter. Compare that number with the block from an 88 or a 1650 and see if it is the same. The Waukesha number on the 88 will be 190320 then an A, B or C. On the 1650 it will be 190320 with a letter further in the alphabet, like an H. There are also Oliver numbers on the block. On the 88 it will be K100, on the 1650 it will be larger 6 digit number. The difference in the engines is mainly in the cylinder head and the pistons. There is a little different design there. Thus, a cylinder head for a 1650 will not fit on an 88 block. Larry

1850 hydro

IP: 155.94.62.222 Posted on July 17, 2006 at 11:59:41 PM by Ken

When I have this tractor in hydro and go down a slight incline, the tractor stops moving until I push in the clutch for 3 seconds and there is a bang and it takes off. Any suggestions? Thanks

Re(1): 1850 hydro

IP: 67.2.249.79 Posted on July 18, 2006 at 05:07:35 AM by Larry Harsin

The direct-drive clutch in the hydra-power is pressurized and it takes it a little time for it to release when the tractor is stopped. I think this is just a normal condition. I don't know about the "bang". Larry

1600 Deisel

IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on July 16, 2006 at 02:10:37 PM by Jeremy B

My 1600 will rev up to full Idol when I am running through the field. It will run this way for about 3 to 5 minutes then idol back to where the throttle was set. Yesterday it did something new. When it reved up, I was through mowing and went to shut it off and it wouldn't. I had to shut off the fuel and wait. Any Ideas on what to check?

Oliver row crop 70 rims

IP: 209.181.97.106 Posted on July 15, 2006 at 08:18:29 PM by Roger

I bought a 1936 row crop 70 parts tactor. My question is can I use the 38 inch rims from this parts tractor for my 1946 row crop 70, which also has as 38 inch rims. The 1946 rims seem a little wider? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver row crop 70 rims

IP: 67.2.248.249 Posted on July 16, 2006 at 03:46:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it would work o.k. Larry

Ignition coils / ballast resistor

IP: 198.208.251.23 Posted on July 13, 2006 at 10:48:32 AM by Tom B

1800B has an external ballast resistor mounted away from the coil. It gets quite hot and generally has me wondering - Tractor has always been 12V, so why not use a normal 12V coil or internally ballasted coil? Is the purpose of the resistor to save wear on points? N11YC's do foul with carbon and I'm contemplating a new coil as part of tune up. Actually, the coil on there looks to be non-original, so I may be double-ballasted. Maybe a resistance check on the coil could tell me? External resistor has become a target of suspicion that I'd like to eliminate by going to a simple 12V coil. If I were to eliminate the resistor in hopes of getting hotter spark, would the result be a fried coil?

Re(1): Ignition coils / ballast resistor

IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on July 13, 2006 at 11:00:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Not necessarily. I think you are on the right track there. Someone may have put a six volt coil on there and then used that resistor. I think if you put on the 12 volt coil, you might have a better running tractor. Another thing to try, if all else fails, is go to a solid state ignition. Valu-Bilt has them 888-828-3276 and Denny's Carb Shop has them 937-368-2304. www.dennyscarbshop.com Larry

Re(2): Ignition coils / ballast resistor

IP: 198.208.251.23 Posted on July 14, 2006 at 10:12:52 AM by Tom B.

OK, so when I look at replacement coils should I worry about whether the new coil has an external ballast resistor attached, is labelled as internally ballasted, or not worry as long as it says it's a 12V coil? In any case the existing resistor is going to be removed. I think I'll give the points set-up a chance before I jump straight to solid-state. I'm just a 'kid' but I've worked on alot of small engines with points ignition. I think it's easier to diagnose problems with parts you can see and touch than with magic black boxes....... Thanks again for the answers.

Re(3): Ignition coils / ballast resistor

IP: 67.2.248.249 Posted on July 16, 2006 at 03:44:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I would go straight to the 12V coil. Larry

1800 B Gas Fuel Pump

IP: 198.208.251.23 Posted on July 13, 2006 at 10:40:06 AM by Tom B

Recently acquired a 1963 1800 Gas, series B. What an awesome machine! Am having a problem where after a minute or 2 at load suddenly it shuts down and will only continue to run if I quickly throttle down to idle. Wait a minute or so and you can go again. Any attempts to increase throttle off idle and it acts like you turned the ignition off. Turning the adjustable jet out about 2 full turns vastly improved things, but I know that's not right. Will rebuid carb this weekend (Found rust like coffee-grounds in the carb fuel screen) because I suspect some severly plugged passages. However, I also believe the float bowl may be going dry. Therefore, I am also wondering about the fuel pump. 1) Why is it there? Tank seems high enough to gravity feed even on pretty steep hills. 2) Is it rebuildable? I have looked severalplaces for a rebuild kit and all I get are weird looks.

Re(1): 1800 B Gas Fuel Pump

IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on July 13, 2006 at 10:49:44 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do after cleaning the carb is remove the sediment bowl from out of the fuel tank and make sure it isn't plugged. Also, check the routing of the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb and possibly put insulation on it so that it won't vapor lock. Keep it as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. Also, replace any leaking exhaust manifold gaskets. When the tractor acts up next time, loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank and make sure it is venting. They built a few without fuel pumps and decided they needed one to prevent vapor locking. I havn't rebuilt a fuel pump, I just put on a different one. You could check with Korves Bros. about a rebuild kit for that pump. 618-939-6681 Email: korves@htc.net Larry

Re(2): 1800 B Gas Fuel Pump

IP: 198.208.251.23 Posted on July 14, 2006 at 06:30:01 AM by Tom B

THANKS! Fuel bowl assy is missing the screen, There was visible crap in the bowl ,so that's a 1st concern.

880 headlights

IP: 216.16.38.123 Posted on July 11, 2006 at 10:00:08 PM by Denton

were can a guy get headlights for a 880. what size were originally on there, any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 880 headlights

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on July 12, 2006 at 11:04:16 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get them from Korves Bros Oliver 618-939-6681 Email: korves@htc.net If you give them the serial number of your 880, they will supply the correct headlights for you. Larry

Oliver Plow

IP: 66.103.177.220 Posted on July 11, 2006 at 02:08:24 PM by Bob Elliott

Larry, How do I determine what model plow I have? I can not find any identification tags on it anywhere. I can tell you it is an Oliver 3-14's, hydrualic lift, and it has full size 15" tail wheel. The back of the moldboards have Oliver Super Raydex on them. Also does anyone make decal sets for plows if I can identify it? Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

Re(1): Oliver Plow

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on July 11, 2006 at 08:41:16 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is a trip bottom plow with 2 bottoms and an add-on, it would be a 4240. If it is a full 3 bottom, then it would be a 4340. You can get decals from Lyle Dumont. His email is: oliver@lisco.com Larry

1850 transmission

IP: 64.223.134.162 Posted on July 11, 2006 at 06:06:30 AM by Dean

I have an 1850 that will pop out of second gear, only when going downhill. What would be the cause of this?

Re(1): 1850 transmission

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on July 11, 2006 at 08:37:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I feel the gears on the bevel pinion shaft are loose. I mean there is end-play on the gears there. Possibly there is a broken thrust washer or a spanner nut came loose on the front of the shaft. These are just 2 of the possibilities. Larry

Re(2): 1850 transmission

IP: 64.223.134.162 Posted on July 12, 2006 at 09:56:25 AM by dean

Is this something to get at just under the platform. How difficult is it to fix?

Re(3): 1850 transmission

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on July 12, 2006 at 11:01:22 PM by Larry Harsin

There is more to it than that. You should get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Then you will see how to go about checking this out. Larry

1800 again

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 10, 2006 at 07:59:06 AM by Jeff Oliver

I am still getting the fuel in the oil but not while it isn't running. I was told that if they injection pump wasn't rebuilt right it would build up pressure and blow the seals out, have you heard of this? I have talked to a couple of repair shop owners that had bad experiemces with the pump shop that did the work. I am going to clean energy cells today or tomorrow and see if I can find any evidence of the injectors being bad from that. What do I need to look for? Since I can't hear a distinct miss and there is no smoke from the exhaust I really don't think they could be too awful bad to get as much fuel as I am getting as I have been told I would be able to tell for sure.

Re(1): 1800 again

IP: 4.249.138.8 Posted on July 10, 2006 at 10:56:47 AM by Larry from md

The main seals should have allmost no pressure on them at all.This pressure is regulated by the fitting on top of the pump on the outside.There is a check ball and spring and a small opening.If this fitting gets plugged or the ball sticks closed you can blow fuel out the seals when running.The internal seals on higher pressure parts of the pump can leak and overwhelm this fitting too.

Re(2): 1800 again

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 10, 2006 at 11:03:30 AM by Jeff

Ok that makes sense. I talked to the guy at the pump shop and he said it could be a blocked return line or the check valve. It's not getting in there when the tractor is not running so maybe I am getting close :)

Re(3): 1800 again

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on July 10, 2006 at 08:19:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the energy cells aren't plugged with carbon. If they are open, they should be o.k. If you havn't had the injectors tested, you should have this done. Larry

Re(4): 1800 again

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 12, 2006 at 09:34:25 AM by Jeff

ok I am going to do that. I talked ot the pump shop and they said the return to the tank might be plugged as well of the valve not working. I am going to replace that this week along with the seal again too. On the return, The way mine is run at the pump there is a connector on top of the check valve that has two openings. One goes to the first of the injectors and the other goes to the tank.On the last injector instead of a T connector and a line going back to the tank as on my 1650 it just stops. The line goes from the 5th to the 6th and ends there. Is this correct? As I said I am going ot have the injectors tested but I have to get the tractor in the shop first as it is sitting out and the tractor shed is gravel and dusty. Don't really want to take things off in those conditions.

Re(5): 1800 again

IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on July 13, 2006 at 11:06:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You are correct. Larry

pump bleeding

IP: 70.52.24.242 Posted on July 9, 2006 at 07:49:02 AM by wayne w

I would like to change the fuel filters on my 1370 oliver but after hearing all kind of horror stories about tractors not starting anymore etc , it sort of scares me to do it. So would you be kind enough to guide me through it ( especially the screws on the pump) thank you so so much.

Re(1): pump bleeding

IP: 67.2.248.199 Posted on July 9, 2006 at 09:28:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Turn the fuel off at the tank. Then change the fuel filters. Then open the valve on the fuel tank again and open the bleed screws on the filters or on the line just past each filter. If it has a primer pump, operate the primer pump til clean fuel comes to each filter. Then open the bleed screw or screws on the injection pump and operate the primer pump until fuel runs out at these points. Then start your engine. This procedure is outlined in the Operator's Manual. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you really should have one. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Olvier Tractor + Hyd Pump question

IP: 24.85.228.84 Posted on July 8, 2006 at 10:10:43 AM by Pete

I've misplaced the hydraulic pump that came off my tractor. I believe its either an Oliver (stamped on the ears) or from the decal denotes its a 1948 Ottawa. Would you be able to id the model and possibly what type of Hyraulic Pump it would use? For the pump, I have 'cessna 15147-105' off the section hoses connect to. For the engine, I have 3 numbers that are stamped on the side: 180220-0, LB-100-B & 668.

Re(1): Oliver Tractor + Hyd Pump question

IP: 67.2.249.34 Posted on July 8, 2006 at 04:47:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have an Oliver S55 or an Oliver 550. Oliver started building the S55 in 1954. They built them for about 5 yrs. Both of them had that number engine block. Look for the serial number on the clutch housing (on the belly down by the foot boards). I don't believe that the loader and backhoe are Oliver. Larry

Super55

IP: 204.42.17.211 Posted on July 7, 2006 at 05:11:28 PM by Kent Flanigan

I have a 1953 Super 55 that runs good but needs restored, I don't have the time or the patience to do it myself. I would like to sell it and get something newer to do my mowing.

Re(1): Super55

IP: 67.2.249.137 Posted on July 8, 2006 at 05:33:05 AM by Larry Harsin

You should advertise your tractor in Oliver Heritage Magazine. Email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Or, Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. Magazine: Email: becky@hartparr.org Or, Antique Power Magazine. Email: antique@antiquepower.com We try to keep this page as an information only page instead of having it filled with ads. Larry

Re(2): Super55

IP: 204.42.21.136 Posted on July 9, 2006 at 01:08:31 PM by kent flanigan

Thank you, that is exactly what I needed to know. Kent

Engine on Super 88

IP: 12.216.63.23 Posted on July 7, 2006 at 11:49:02 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

I looking for some insight and advice on my Super 88 diesel engine. I've got it torn down and my crank is good, piston are in pretty good shape but some have wear on the top of piston and the top compression ring gap is at.140 (max is .131). Sleeves good pretty good but a few have some wear. Im trying to decide if I can get by with new rings and bearings or if I should replace pistons.

Re(1): Engine on Super 88

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on July 7, 2006 at 07:22:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I would definitely install new sleeves and pistons. If it was a gas, I would probably re-ring it, but a diesel I would replace. Also, install new rod bushings. I would use the one-piece bushing. And I would also install new bearings. Larry

Re(2): Engine on Super 88

IP: 12.216.63.23 Posted on July 10, 2006 at 08:40:36 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

Thanks for the reply. My last question is that my rear main seal was leaking and got my clutch disk oilly. Should I just replace the clutch disk or would you recommend replacing the pressure plate too? Also my flywheel is in pretty good shape but do those usually get turned at a machine shop when doing a clutch job?

Re(3): Engine on Super 88

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on July 10, 2006 at 08:24:56 PM by Larry Harsin

If the clutch is working o.k. and the linings are not badly worn, I would clean it up and reuse it. I wouldn't replace the pressure plate. Only have the flywheel turned if it needs it. If it doesn't need to be resurfaced, I wouldn't do it. Larry

no rpm out of 1550 industrial motor

IP: 216.223.173.45 Posted on July 6, 2006 at 06:20:18 PM by Kyle Rensberger

My father and I recently purchased a super 88 Oliver with hole in the block so we scrapped it and purchased a motor that we later found out it was a 1550 industrial motor. After putting the motor in the tractor we could not get more than 1400 rpm out of it. Originally the motor had a vacuum style of some governer i think for a foot throttle. So we put the 88 governer on the motor and can not get any rpm. I know that the 1550 has a different style governer than the 88. We are unable to find the right governer. Hoping you would know where to find one or maybe tell us what we are doing wrong. The tractor is going to be used for antique pulling and that is all.

Re(1): no rpm out of 1550 industrial motor

IP: 67.2.248.40 Posted on July 6, 2006 at 09:31:53 PM by Larry Harsin

That governor should work. Perhaps you should use the governor housing along with it. If it won't however, you may have to take the 1550 governor to an AGCO dealer and see if it compares with the governor that is shown in the Parts Manual for it. Then, you'll have to go from there. Larry

Re(2): no rpm out of 1550 industrial motor

IP: 216.223.173.45 Posted on July 7, 2006 at 12:10:58 PM by Kyle R

The original governer that come with the 1550 motor did not use a housing in the front of the block it bolted above the carb between the carb and the intake. The governer that it is on it now is an 88 governer and housing. Thanks a lot for you help.

what is it

IP: 71.121.175.20 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 10:39:34 PM by norm

got an old tractor from my dad.not sure what it is.It is an oliver specification#15-0006 serial#24-455-518 # on the case IE-2001A I would appreciate any info I could get

Re(1): what is it

IP: 67.2.249.50 Posted on July 6, 2006 at 04:59:47 AM by Larry Harsin

You have a 1955 Oliver Super 55. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. The Operator's Manual will give you a lot of information about your tractor. It will cost approx. $20 - $25. Larry

550D pto seal #

IP: 4.157.86.218 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 08:53:18 AM by bill

Do any of you have a crossover number of the pto rear seal maybe a National or Napa seal number? any help will be great would like to have a new seal in my hand before disabling tractor thanks

Re(1): 550D pto seal #

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 09:45:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I got one of them from him, but I don't remember the number. Larry

Re(2): 550D pto seal #

IP: 4.157.86.195 Posted on July 9, 2006 at 08:35:49 AM by bill

thanks for your help Larry. I have the parts catalog for the 550. I have learned that the part number 1e-1582 is in fact the National seal number. I don't know if it is true of the other seal numbers. Hope this helps other folks it is nice to get the smaller parts locally.

1800 diesel overheating

IP: 64.136.49.225 Posted on July 4, 2006 at 09:09:35 PM by Ken McFarland

I recently purchased an Oliver tractor at auction. Serial #120939-892 which according to my I&T shop manual is an 1800 A. My 72 year old neighbor repaired an inoperative PTO, replacing the clutch assy, control lever actuating arms, bearings, races etc. I used the tractor on a New Holland 459 mower conditioner with a single lift cylinder and had to raise the rpm very high to get proper lift. The fluid levels are all full. Also the tractor began to over heat (215-230f) and I would have to idle to get the heat down. I pulled the hoses, flushed radiator, flushed heat exchanger on the hydrapower and still overheating under a load. Any suggestions on the heat problem or the high rpm required to operate remote cylinder would be greatly appreciated. If it hadn't of rained and the baler broke I would be frustrated trying to put up hay.

Re(1): 1800 diesel overheating

IP: 67.2.248.136 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 05:44:23 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is install a new fan belt. The old one may be slipping without you realizing it. You can test this by just grabbing hold of the engine fan and see if you can turn it. If you can, the belt isn't holding. The sides burn off of the belt so that it cannot grip the fan pulley. I'd test the hydraulic system pressure. Get a 2000lb pressure gauge and attach it to one of the remote outlets. If the pressure is below 1400lbs, I would try using heavier hydraulic fluid, such as a med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. If you are already using this oil, I might even try some heavy hydraulic oil. If there is something wrong with the pump or the relief valve, this is quite a job to rectify on an early 1800. To change the relief valve setting, the hydraulic system has to be disassembled. Larry

Re(2): 1800 diesel overheating

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 01:46:33 PM by Carl

Another suggestion that might help on your overheating problem. If the tractor has a thermostat, it could be sticking causing the overheating. This happened to me recently with a tractor. To test the thermostat, just take it out and put it in a kettle of water on your stove. Boil the water and you should see the thermostat open up if its good.

Re(3): 1800 diesel overheating

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 04:10:23 PM by Jeff Oliver

One other thing could be to check if the lift arms are going up to high. I had that problem on my B series and it makes the pump work in a strain all the time and gets the entire hydralulic unit very hot. Might cause enough load on the engine to make it get hot too. Like Larry said though, check the fan belt first and then the thermostat.

Type of oil for my diesel

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on July 4, 2006 at 10:26:07 AM by Harry

Was talking to my oil rep, and he suggested running Rotela 15w 40 diesel oil in my 1650 diesel. He told me that the oil has cleaners in it to help the engin. In the owners manual it suggest 10w30. Are the cleaners good for older engins, or would you suggest sticking to the op. manual. Also about the oil weight, would that hurt? Thanks for your time

Re(1): Type of oil for my diesel

IP: 67.2.248.82 Posted on July 4, 2006 at 08:11:14 PM by Larry Harsin

The 15w40 was developed since that tractor was built. I think it would be a good choice to replace what you were using. However, if what you were using meets the specs outlined in your Operator's Manual, that is sufficient. But, if you want to use a 15w40 oil, the Shell Rotella is a good choice. Larry

Waukesha/Oliver engine parts

IP: 71.226.155.149 Posted on July 3, 2006 at 07:33:59 AM by JDH

Is there any way to tell what parts came and the date from by the casting number? If there is a manual, where can I find one? For instance, How do you know if you have an "original" tractor or if something has been replaced? Thank you.

Re(1): Waukesha/Oliver engine parts

IP: 67.2.248.82 Posted on July 4, 2006 at 08:05:56 PM by Larry Harsin

You don't know exactly, but, with a lot of the Oliver tractors with Waukesha engines, the date that the engine was built is stamped on the surface where the thermostat housing fits on the cylinder head. Also, sometimes there would be casting dates on the bottom of the transmission housing and on the bottom of the engine frame casting. You get a Operator's Manual or a Shop Manual for the tractor with the Waukesha engine. You could check with the Museum at Charles City and ask if they have a manual just for the Waukesha engine. Oliver did make some stationary engines that had Waukesha engines in them. Email the Museum: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver model#oc-46-30

IP: 24.154.52.115 Posted on July 3, 2006 at 06:31:02 AM by Don Harbison

My dad got this loader give to him,it does run,however not for long.Someone put an alternator(gm exciter type)on it,and some wiring may be missing.There's no ballast resistor between the + wire from the ignition switch to the coil,could this be part of the problem?Also,do you no where I could find an owners manual/wiring diagram for this machine?serial#5wr-042-st,Thanks for your time!

Re(1): Oliver model#oc-46-30

IP: 67.2.248.82 Posted on July 4, 2006 at 07:56:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman at Zimmerman Cletrac in Ephrata PA. They have a parts and service business for Cletracs. www.olivercletrac.com Email: zoc@att.net You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net There should be a wiring diagram in the Operator's Manual. Landis may have the Manual also. Larry

fuel in the oil,1800B diesel

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 2, 2006 at 09:16:54 PM by Jeff Oliver

Mr. Harsin, I have been trying to solve this problem for over a year and so far no luck. The transfer pump has been replaced, the injection pump rebuilt,The brass tube in the injection pump appears to have been replaced when it was rebuilt as it was smooth( this was something I was told to look for because of the seal). I have so far put 4 pump seals in it and although the last one was done by a reputable mechanic and stopped the problem for a month or so it has come back now. I have asked several others who have said that it can't be the injectors but to me that is about all that is left. It doesn't smoke but it doesn't "sound" right, not like a miss but it doesn't sound like a friends 1650 does. Runs and idles smooth. Could one or more injectors be in bad shape? I can take them out and have them checked but want to ask if that is a possibility before doing it. I've run out of ideas. Oh one other thing,if we use it for 1 hour or so and shut it off it won't start again until it cools off some. All ideas are appreciated.

Re(1): fuel in the oil,1800B diesel

IP: 67.2.249.248 Posted on July 2, 2006 at 10:15:51 PM by Larry Harsin

About the oil becoming contaminated with fuel: The first thing, pull the exhaust manifold off and start the engine. Let it run for awhile and see if one of the cylinders does not clear up. If one of the cylinders doesn't clean up and it smokes, or if the port is wet, that is the first injector to pull and check. Also, check the energy cell in that cylinder. I have seen cases where the spindle in the injector was broken. However, if the energy cell is o.k. and the injector is o.k., then you may have low compression on that cylinder. This can be caused by a leaking valve or a scored piston or broken rings etc. etc. Larry

Re(2): fuel in the oil,1800B diesel

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 3, 2006 at 07:16:27 AM by Jeff Oliver

Thanks, I ill try that. Could it also be a valve that is Way out of adjustment. Seems i heard that one time too.

Re(3): fuel in the oil,1800B diesel

IP: 67.2.248.136 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 05:46:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is possible. Larry

Re(4): fuel in the oil,1800B diesel

IP: 70.97.224.226 Posted on July 5, 2006 at 04:07:00 PM by Jeff Oliver

Thank you sir. I will check that first as that is the easiest.

Re(5): fuel in the oil,1800B diesel

IP: 68.186.10.157 Posted on July 19, 2006 at 07:51:47 PM by lee e washburn

check the injector pump seals.

60 row crop gear noise

IP: 216.114.16.95 Posted on June 30, 2006 at 00:47:50 AM by Darrell & Rebecca Bittner

We have a 1947 Oliver 60 Row Crop, the transmission seems to whine quite a bit, especially in 5th gear. How much of that is considered normal?

Re(1): 60 row crop gear noise

IP: 67.2.248.120 Posted on June 30, 2006 at 05:26:27 AM by Larry Harsin

They have a whiney transmission! The use of 140 weight transmission grease will help. Larry

battery question

IP: 70.52.24.145 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 05:59:58 PM by wayne w.

Hi Larry, can you tell me how many amps I need to start an oliver 1370 diesel without going overbord with exesive amperage (12 volt ). I have a 1250 amp battery now that's on it's way out (dead) it's not original and I think way too big And can you tell me if oliver green is close to john deer green (paint color) thank's so much..

Re(1): battery question

IP: 67.2.242.79 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 09:29:24 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1250 amp battery is the right size. Oliver Green is not like John Deere Green. John Deere green has too much yellow in it. You should use Oliver Meadow Green and Clover White from AGCO. Larry

1600 stuck shift lever

IP: 65.1.209.132 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 01:31:38 PM by Tom Boylan

Larry- My 1600 gas tractor is stuck between gears. I was mowing in 3rd and it started grinding the gears and the shift lever is stuck. When you let the clutch out, it acts like the gears are almost engaged. The shift lever will not move in any direction. By the way- it has no hydrapower unit. What gives?

Re(1): 1600 stuck shift lever

IP: 67.2.242.79 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 09:25:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm afraid that something has happened to the range cluster on the input shaft in the transmission. For instance, lack of oil, possibly. You should be able to remove the cover by the shift lever and look in there to see what the problem is. Larry

1600

IP: 69.15.178.241 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 10:56:19 AM by gerry

couple of quick questions. 1)on my 1600 the PTO engagement level doesn't seem to want to stay in gear (it doesn't have a fell like it actually "locks" in place--more like a clutch) Right now I just wire it forward. What should I do to fix this--is it a sign of a more onerous problem? 2) where can I pick up some front weights--do you have any to sell? 3) would my 1600 pull that 4x14 you have available? 4) tires are getting pretty checked and this winter was hard on them. What would I expect to pay for new (roughly) or should I try to find some used. 5) where can I order "official" color oliver paint

Re(1): 1600

IP: 67.2.242.79 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 09:22:24 PM by Larry Harsin

1.The PTO clutch: The cover has to be removed and shims removed to get it to snap into place. 2.I have some front weights, but freight rates are extremely high. 3.Yes. The 1600 would pull a 4x14 plow. 4.Good used tires of that size are going to be hard to come by. I'd recommend getting new ones. In my area, a new pair mounted will be approx. $800 - $900. 5.I get my paint from my AGCO dealer. Meadow Green and Clover White. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry Email: cobalt@rconnect.com

Re(2): 1600

IP: 69.15.178.241 Posted on June 30, 2006 at 12:01:17 PM by Gerry

Thanks much larry. yea, shipping a bunch of dead weight is sort of a problem. I'm going to be back in Iowa later this summer and may like to stop by--if you still have some weights I could pick them up then. murf

Diesel engine rattle

IP: 71.194.31.41 Posted on June 28, 2006 at 08:35:11 AM by Andy P

Hi Larry, I did a dumb thing, I let the engine oil get too low. Now the engine has a rattle in it. It sounds like something broke. Now I need to find a mechanic. I live in northwest Illinois near Joliet. Any sugestions would be appreciated. The tractor is a 1958 Oliver 880.

Re(1): Diesel engine rattle

IP: 67.2.242.77 Posted on June 28, 2006 at 07:02:03 PM by Larry Harsin

A good mechanic to check with is Kenny Grimm at Goose Lake IA. Email: grimmolvrs@cis.net Another good mechanic a little further away for you is Gary Spitznogle at Wapello IA Phone 319-766-2665. I'm sure your tractor will have to be torn down and checked out. Larry

oliver diesel 1650 problem fuel filter

IP: 66.103.229.159 Posted on June 26, 2006 at 06:03:33 PM by Norm King

Help Larry!! I use my Oliver Diesel 1650 around the farm. I had a friend pull the engine to replace the drive coupling. I threw out all the filters because we were going to replace all of them. Gee wiz I cannot find a primary fuel filter that will fit this tractor. I've been all over the place. The screw on the Agco 702513976 is too short even though it's supposed to be the right one. TRhe dealer suggested that I try the Agco 609689AS. Nope, also too short. Any ideas?

Re(1): oliver diesel 1650 problem fuel filter

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on June 27, 2006 at 06:30:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Are you talking about the filter on the left side of the engine or the right side of the engine? The primary fuel filter is on the right side of the engine and the part no. is: 156289AS. The left side is the 609689AS and it is the final filter. Larry

1850 Oliver Tractor

IP: 207.69.137.205 Posted on June 26, 2006 at 10:21:04 AM by James Brown

Is the hydraulic, the transmission, and the power steering all the same resevoir? I can only find one fill spot and its under the seat. I just recently bought this tractor, and haven't gotten the book for it yet. Thank You!

Re(1): 1850 Oliver Tractor

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on June 27, 2006 at 06:22:42 AM by Larry Harsin

No. The transmission and final drive is separate from the hydraulic. The hydraulic check and fill point is below the seat with a dipstick and uses a medium non-foaming hydraulic oil. The transmission and final drive fill point is on the Operator's platform, close to the gearshift lever and uses 80 - 90 transmission oil. The check point is behind the right hand axle housing. It is a 3/8" pipe plug. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

1963 OLIVER 770

IP: 71.124.149.81 Posted on June 24, 2006 at 05:54:21 PM by Rick

IM LOOKING AT THIS TRACTOR, THEY SAY IT NEEDS A CLUTCH, ARE PARTS READILY AVAILIBLE, & DID THEY MAKE A 770 IN 1963? THIS ONE HAS A LORD LOADER ON IT.

Re(1): 1963 OLIVER 770

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on June 27, 2006 at 06:15:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Parts are readily available. They made 770's from 1959 - 1969. Larry

super 88

IP: 68.113.150.171 Posted on June 24, 2006 at 10:52:07 AM by Karl

Hello,I just bought a late 58'super 88 and it is under a corn picker.The problem is i have no rear fenders or fender mounts or any grill or nose-radiater shroud pieces.Will these parts inter change from a 77 or a 88 . Thanks

Re(1): super 88

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on June 27, 2006 at 06:10:15 AM by Larry Harsin

The fenders would be the same, but the other parts are different. Larry

oliver 1250

IP: 65.54.98.102 Posted on June 23, 2006 at 05:25:57 PM by J Shope

well I have been allover the internet and on the phone to a lot of parts places, haven,t found rod bearings or bottom cylender seals. Can anybody help me. this is for a gas engine.

Re(1): oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.248.28 Posted on June 27, 2006 at 06:04:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Have you checked with: www.agpartsfirst.com OR Harold Wolfe in Tennessee 423-581-5557. Larry

77 row crop

IP: 208.5.112.11 Posted on June 23, 2006 at 08:32:06 AM by Marty

A friend just bought a non running 77 row crop. I thought they were six volt positive ground and he thought 12 volts. Which is it and where can he get a good manual with out spending alot of money.

Re(1): 77 row crop

IP: 209.50.31.79 Posted on June 26, 2006 at 11:36:41 PM by B A Star

If it is a gas or LP tractor, it was 6 Volt Positive ground. Diesel was 12 Volt ( 2- 6 volt batterys wired in series )Positive ground. Manuals can be obtained from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City, IA. email: hpocacc@fiai.net

550 and S55

IP: 66.211.89.74 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 04:28:29 PM by Seth

I have a 1959 oliver 550 and i was wondering if an oliver super 55 and 550, are the transmisions the same. The IT shop manual show that they are and it does not say that they are different

Re(1): 550 and S55

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 09:22:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. They are pretty much identical. Larry Re(2): 550 and S55

IP: 66.211.89.134 Posted on June 21, 2006 at 07:51:39 AM by Seth Leach

Well I found two gears that I need for the bevel pinion shaft off a S55 will they work for my 550. So what I'm getting at are all the gears in the Super 55 the same as the 550. So can I interchange the gears from a Super 55 to a 550.

Re(3): 550 and S55

IP: 67.2.248.47 Posted on June 21, 2006 at 09:47:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I think they will work. The parts numbers should be stamped on the gears and if the numbers are the same, they will work. Larry

Hydraulics won't work

IP: 24.247.3.176 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 12:52:08 PM by Jim Stone

I have an Oliver 55 deisel. Hydraulic fluid levels are normal, three point lift will not come up. Does any one have any suggestions? Thanks

Re(1): Hydraulics won't work

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 09:21:11 PM by Larry Harsin

If it has the external valve to run an external cylinder, you should disassemble that valve and clean it. If you do not have that valve or if this doesn't help, you will have to take the hydraulic unit off of the tractor and clean the servo valve. Larry

Oliver 207 Hay Rake

IP: 63.105.65.5 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 12:27:51 PM by Greg

I need help!! Can anyone tell me what is the correct part number for the teeth for this hay rake? Is the teeth for the 107 Rake the same? My Agco dealer couldn't help me. He said he had no way to look up the information for this Oliver hay rake parts without a part number. There are no teeth at all on this rake. I realize this site seems to be mainly for tractors, I haven't had any luck anywhere else. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 207 Hay Rake

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 09:19:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a parts book for that baler. Valu-Bilt has the teeth for the 107, but not the 207, so I assume they are different. You could check with Korves Oliver. Phone: 618-939-6681 or Email: korves@htc.net or check with Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Re(2): Oliver 207 Hay Rake

IP: 216.176.75.129 Posted on June 21, 2006 at 09:05:36 AM by Sherry

The teeth are the same for the 107 and 207. The AGCO number is 500629E for the spring tooth. The rubber tooth is 504158E. AGCO does have them available.

1950 T engine

IP: 64.223.134.162 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 09:53:34 AM by Dean Marthers

I recently had a major overhaul done on my 1950-T 310 engine, this included new pistons, sleeves, bearings, the crank was turned, head was planed, valves were done. I have had it back for four working hours, (hour meter) I was cutting hay with it the other day at full PTO power. I cut for 20 minutes, let it slowly idle down and started back in. I was cutting for another 20 minutes or so when I started smelling a heavy hot oil smell coming from the breather tube. I also started seeing some blueish smoke coming from the breather tube. The smoke increased to be a pretty good cloud, plus it started to tick, upper engine, sounding like a lifter sound. I shut the tractor down immediately. I have brought it to the attention of the shop that did the work, I have not received a definative answer. Please give a direction I should go in to fix this.

Re(1): 1950 T engine

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 09:11:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably a piston has started to score. You were correct in shutting it down. The engine will have to be torn down and inspected. I would caution that you should only use SAE 30 diesel engine oil or 15-40 in this engine. Also, I would reccommend that if the oil pump was not disassembled and checked for wear, that you do so. Larry

Re(2): 1950 T engine

IP: 64.223.134.162 Posted on June 22, 2006 at 08:48:21 AM by dean

If it was scoring a piston, why the hot oil smell and the blueish smoke coming out, is it possible it has spun a bearing?

Re(3): 1950 T engine

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on June 22, 2006 at 08:43:56 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have smoke coming out of the breather, this would indicate that it is losing compression into the crankcase. This is probably because of rings sticking and scoring a piston. With the symptoms that you describe, I doubt if it is a spun bearing. Larry

Re(4): 1950 T engine

IP: 64.223.134.162 Posted on June 23, 2006 at 07:17:45 AM by Dean

Thanks, I have contacted a mechanic,(different than who did the engine) and he agrees with your assesment of the piston scoring. When he breaks down the engine I will let you know what was found.

1855 hydro

IP: 12.47.34.83 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 05:36:33 AM by elijah

I replaced the hydolic oil in my 1855 and filled it back up, i ran it with the bleeder above the filter open for 10 minutes but not a drop came out, fluid looked foamy. never delt with hydro systems before any suggestions thanks

Re(1): 1855 hydro

IP: 4.249.105.253 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 10:22:00 AM by Larry from md

Yes that filter is on the suction side of the pump you MUST close that air bleeder valve BEFORE you start the engine or all you get is air.Hope you havn't destroyed the pump.

Re(2): 1855 hydro

IP: 64.210.97.97 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 05:37:43 PM by elijah

I let the bleeder gravity bleed and got fluid to come out now the three point won't come up all the way and the steering barely works. I took the pressure relief valves out when I drained the fluid should I have not taken them out. thanks, elijah

Re(3): 1855 hydro

IP: 67.2.248.206 Posted on June 20, 2006 at 09:06:55 PM by Larry Harsin

You shouldn't have taken them out. You shouldn't have been running it with that bleeder valve open. You may have wrecked it. That is what Operator's Manuals are for. You should read that. Larry

pto seal oliver 66

IP: 67.55.171.176 Posted on June 18, 2006 at 01:49:19 PM by oliver 1

What is the correct procedure to replace a pto seal in an oliver 66?

Re(1): pto seal oliver 66

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on June 18, 2006 at 05:24:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to take the unit apart and then replace the seal. You should get an I & T Shop Manual to tell you how to do it. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 70 Rocker Arm Wicks

IP: 70.98.174.25 Posted on June 16, 2006 at 05:08:21 PM by John Nye

We have a 1946 Oliver 70 that overall is in very good shape. One thing that worries us are the Rocker Arm Wicks (Part # B-213-A) They are either missing and/or crystalized. Oil is getting to the Rocker arms, but not to the tappets . We have tried several places to find some new wicks, but no one had any. Do you know a source for these wicks or what to make them from? We feel it is important to get oil to the tappets

Re(1): Oliver 70 Rocker Arm Wicks

IP: 67.2.242.62 Posted on June 19, 2006 at 06:43:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I checked and I don't have these. You can order them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The part number is H213A. Order 12 of them. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 Rocker Arm Wicks

IP: 70.98.174.25 Posted on June 28, 2006 at 07:29:41 AM by John Nye

Thanks, Larry.I did all of the above - Tom was very helpful and in 6 days had the wicks. He also is a good salesman - said I should also get a new valve cover gasket (of course). My family bought a very small farm in RI in the early 40's and bought a used 1941 Oliver 70 in 1944. I used it doing custom work in the 50's. With 40+ "Antiques" (incl parts tractors) the "70' is one of my favorites - it was way ahead of its time!

Re(3): Oliver 70 Rocker Arm Wicks

IP: 67.2.242.79 Posted on June 29, 2006 at 09:32:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear that you got fixed up. The 70 is the one that Sandy thinks is the prettiest one. Larry

1800B Drive Train Problem

IP: 69.150.151.232 Posted on June 15, 2006 at 11:11:16 PM by Alan

I am having a problem with an 1800B drive train. A gear grinding noise occurs occasionally as if it slips out of gear. At first this happened in 5th gear when starting out with a bail on the 3 point. This has also happened in 3rd gear while cutting with a 9ft Haybine, always when engaging the clutch. The problem always is during a high torque situation like going up hill with a load. The sound is as if some where in the drive train a shaft is moving allowing the gears to separate under load. Should I look in the final drive or the transmission first? The Hydrapower was rebuild about three years ago and seems to function well. At the same time the mechanic adjusted something in the final drive dealing with the pinion gear. Will this be obvious when checking it out or will it be one of those problems that is hard to find since it only occurs under loads?

Re(1): 1800B Drive Train Problem

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on June 18, 2006 at 05:18:02 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds to me like the problem is in the cluster gears on the bevel-pinion shaft in the bottom of the transmission. A thrust washer may have broken or there is some wear in some spacers. This would be the first thing I would check. Larry

1950 Parts

IP: 72.49.72.33 Posted on June 15, 2006 at 10:41:36 PM by Dan

I'm looking at buying a 1950 industrial tractor. Is there any places in or around Ohio that sell salvaged Oliver parts.

Re(1): 1950 Parts

IP: 70.105.102.150 Posted on June 17, 2006 at 05:44:23 AM by Matt Kane

Maibach's Tractor in Creston Ohio. 1-800-808-9934 They have a large salvage yard of oliver tractors.

Re(2): 1950 Parts

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on June 18, 2006 at 05:20:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would also say Maibach's or Smitty's Tractor Parts at Dalton OH. Email: smittytractor@aol.com Larry

Drawbar pins 550 Oliver

IP: 143.115.159.53 Posted on June 15, 2006 at 10:25:33 PM by Larry

I was able to find the base drawbar mount for a 550. I am missing the twist lock pins to mount the drawbar. Where can I find this pins and what is a fair price for them?

Re(1): Drawbar pins 550 Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on June 18, 2006 at 05:13:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. for the pins. 800-320-6224. I don't know the price. Larry

Oliver 1800 C series

IP: 64.31.96.1 Posted on June 15, 2006 at 09:00:07 PM by Allen Kleinfelter

I have recently aquired a 1964 oliver 1800 and it has a gas motor that is weak. Rather than rebuild it, do the diesel engines use the same blocks? that I could build a diesel up from it. Would I need a diffrent crank, cam and rods? I know I would need a head, pump, injectors and timing cover ect. Or maybe the blocks aren't the same and that would lead to a diffrent engine. What are my options. I want to keep everything original like it came out of the factory since this tractor will be restored. I would rather not do a engine swap that isn't correct for the tractor. I have converted a 77 gas block to diesel but I had all the parts from a diesel with a bad block. Thanks for the help!

Re(1): Oliver 1800 C series

IP: 67.2.249.75 Posted on June 15, 2006 at 09:50:04 PM by Larry Harsin

I think the blocks are the same, but I question that you will be able to find all of the parts. The crank would be different. The 1800C diesel is a 310 engine and requires a longer stroke. The gas is a 283 engine. I believe I'd try to find a complete engine and rebuild it. I don't know who might have an 1800C engine. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1800 C series

IP: 64.31.96.231 Posted on June 16, 2006 at 09:48:25 AM by Allen Kleinfelter

I guess my next question would be if I locate a motor. Is there any diffrence between the in the motors in a 1800 A-C series tractor?

Re(3): Oliver 1800 C series

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on June 18, 2006 at 05:02:47 PM by Larry Harsin

B and C engines are the same, but the A is different. Larry

Oliver with perkins engine

IP: 67.48.233.185 Posted on June 13, 2006 at 06:10:51 PM by Kyle

I have an 1855 with a junk block...(piston pushed out the side) I am looking for a block or a rebuildable.....do you know where i can find one? If not how much could I be looking at spending?

Re(1): Oliver with perkins engine

IP: 67.2.249.42 Posted on June 13, 2006 at 08:56:28 PM by Larry Harsin

1855's didn't come from the factory with a Perkins engine. Check with Valu-Bilt about a block 888-828-3276. Larry

Fluid in Hydra Power

IP: 205.245.255.192 Posted on June 13, 2006 at 08:21:06 AM by Jeff Schneider

Larry, I read through the archives and if I understand the hydra power type A fluid can be replaced by Dexron-Mercon ATF. Is this correct? Would you be able to suggest a filter p/n. I have one with an AGCO part # that is supposed to be the correct one but it appears bigger. Any alternatives?

Re(1): Fluid in Hydra Power

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on June 13, 2006 at 01:13:27 PM by CEB

Dextron III works fine in the hydra power unit. A fram PH-16 filter will work, I don't know the other brands, but any auto parts store should be to cross reference it for any of the major brands of filters if you give them the fram number. This is the same filter that you will find in many Dodge trucks, minivans, and some Dodge cars.

Re(2): Fluid in Hydra Power

IP: 67.2.249.42 Posted on June 13, 2006 at 08:51:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is the proper fluid. The filter from AGCO that you describe sounds correct. They do appear to be larger, but they work. Larry

Re(3): Fluid in Hydra Power

IP: 4.249.108.71 Posted on June 14, 2006 at 10:53:43 AM by Larry from md

The ac delco number is pf13.The pf 2 and 20 will screw on but they are much larger filters.I have had people tell me they use the pf 20 just because its easier to find.

Power Cells

IP: 70.105.102.150 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:50:05 AM by Matt kane

Is there a trick to removing and cleaning the power cells?

Re(1): Power Cells

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:54:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a regular "puller". I've used a fine thread 3/4" bolt at times. I usually try to clean the inner portion of the cell without removing it from the head. You can use a small drill bit to get through and then I use a brass welding rod like for an acetylene torch being careful not to damage the power cell. The main thing is to be careful and not be too rough on the cell and get everything cleaned up good. Larry

Re(2): Power Cells

IP: 70.105.102.150 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 07:30:28 AM by Matt Kane

You remove the plug, then the retainer is drilled? so you can remove the cell cap?? The larger inner portion is then cleaned right.

Re(3): Power Cells

IP: 67.2.249.24 Posted on June 12, 2006 at 06:34:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I use a magnet to take that cap out of there after you get the nut off. Then you can take a vice grip or a plier and get hold of the cell cap itself and pull it out. I leave the inner portion in the head when I clean it. Make sure the sealing surfaces are cleaned good. Larry

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