"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - Mid June thru Mid July, 2005 Archives


Oliver 1650

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 11:46:58 AM by Joe

I recently bought a 1650 (1967). Page 4-4 of the operator's manual refers to Hydra-Power, Creeper Drive, Over/Under, Direct Drive... I know how to use the Hydra-Power/Direct Drive control rod, but the Over/Under shift diagram appears to reference the throttle lever? I guess a brief explanation of how this power train is designed to work would be much appreciated. Thanks for any help you can give me!

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 12:45:10 PM by Ron

The throttle lever and O/U lever share a common shaft. The throttle lever is the longer of the two and is positioned to the outside of the tractor. The O/U lever is shorter and positioned to the inside. If you don't have two levers you don't have the O/U. Not all tractors had them. The manual has excellent instructions on how to use the various power train components. If you tell us exactly how your tractor is equipped and ask a specific question we can certainly help you.

Re(2): Oliver 1650

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 04:13:50 PM by Joe

My 1650 only has the throttle - so it must not have the over/under - hence the confusing picture. My control rod only says Direct Drive and Hydra Power. Is my trator not equipped with a creeper gear?

Re(3): Oliver 1650

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 00:03:27 AM by Larry Harsin

You have a Hydra-Power Drive with Direct and Low. Low side will coast or "free wheel" going downhill. Direct drive won't. Just follow the instructions in your manual for Hydra-Power Drive. You do not have an O/U or a creeper gear. They are in the 3 speed. You have a 2 speed. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 1650

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 09:18:30 AM by joe

Thanks for your time! One more question - I am checking the fluids and when I popped the transmission fill cap I could see no fluid in the casing. When I loosen the test plug, however, I get plenty of fluid leaking out as I back the plug out. Is this normal, or do I need to add 80w gear oil? Tractor is functioning normally.

Re(5): Oliver 1650

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 09:47:38 AM by Ron

Like Larry said, read the book. If you put 80W in a HydraPower you'll wish you had read the book first!

Re(6): Oliver 1650

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 11:48:05 AM by Joe

You know, I'm a little surprised at the tone of some of these responses. I enjoy this forum because I'm new to Olivers and I enjoy learning from people who know more than me. I freely admit that I have a lot to learn about this tractor - that's why I'm here. I also know that you have to understand equipment to be able to keep it running, and I want to really understand this machine. That being said, the 1650 OM I have says on page 4-4 that you should add 80 weight gear oil meeting the Mil Spec (the number escapes me right now) through the fill plug for the tranny (under the access plate at your feet) until it reaches the level of the test plug (right rear housing near the axle.) I backed the test plug out a few turns and I can see that fluid is to that level. The Lube chart says the capacity is 32 quarts of 80 weight gear oil, while the spec says that 90 weight can be used if the temp doesn't go over 32. The tractor is functioning fine, but I want to make sure I keep up with the fluids and lube. Any guidance you can give me will be much appreciated. Thanks!

Re(7): Oliver 1650

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 12:25:56 PM by Ron

Apparently you are looking at the transmission/final drive. The PTO and T/FD share the same lube supply... any high-quality 75W-90 or 80W-90 is fine year-round. Again, I'll caution you to be very careful. There is a very specific procedure to change the lube and clean/replace the filters. Even some people who have had the tractor a long time fail to follow the sequence given in the book and end up changing only a small portion of the lube and then wonder why it only took 8 quarts instead of the full 32. Changing all the fluids and filters is a great plan when you get a new tractor.

Re(8): Oliver 1650

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 01:09:40 PM by Joe

Thanks for the guidance on the postings and on the tranny. Until I can change the fluids, is my method of checking the level correct? If I have fluid start to come out when I back the test plug out is that sufficient until I can get it changed? I see no fluid inside the fill hole when I pop it, but fluid comes out the test plug. Thanks again for your patience - this is an excellent resource for beginners like me.

Re(9): Oliver 1650

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 01:28:11 PM by Ron

Correct, you will not see any lube from the fill hole but the test plug hole will ooze lube when the level is correct.

Re(10): Oliver 1650

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 02:12:56 PM by Joe

Thanks!


1655 Engine problem

IP: 142.161.206.151 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 09:16:30 AM by John

I have more problems! My Waukesha diesel siezed, I was goping uphill on the highway at full speed with the haybine and she suddenly quit. Oil pressure was 40+ PSI and temp in mid range, I sensed the engine was making hard work of things but she sounded good and was not labouring. Towed her home and set to work, just before removing the head I tried the starter and the engine was free. Removed the head and every thing appeared OK. There was some slight scoring on #1 liner. Dropped the sump, all bearings appeared normal colour, could turn the crank by hand, no white metal in the sump. Pulled #1 piston and found she was very badly scored, rings were not broken. Connecting rod bearing is excellent. (The previous owner had the engine rebuilt!) Pulled the liner and plan on replacing the piston and liner. The other cyclinders are excellent. My big concern is why did this happen? I do not know the cause, Is there anything else I should be checking on this engine? Any advice please? John, Manitoba, Canada.

Re(1): 1655 Engine problem

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 09:40:18 AM by Ron

John, On one hand you say the engine seized but then you say ther starter could turn it over, apparently after it had some time to cool. The only scenario under which that makes sense is proven by what you observed with #1 sleeve and piston... clearances were too tight and when the engine got hot #1 piston & sleeve made contact. You have done a wonderful job of diagnosing and explaning the problem. You will need to check piston/wall clearances on all cylinders per the service manual. I suspect that none of the cylinders were correctly honed during the previous owner's rebuild. Be sure to clean the oil pump and replace the filter before you button it back up. It should be good to go when you get done. Ron

Re(2): 1655 Engine problem

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 11:57:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd be inclined to put the new liner in and I'd go with straight 30 wt. series 3 oil. I had a similar problem with a newly overhauled engine using 10W30 oil. This makes me think you should use 30 wt. this time of year and 10W30 in cold weather. Another thing I would check is the wear on the bushings and the oil pump shaft. Larry


1855 Motor

IP: 204.38.224.167 Posted on July 18, 2005 at 06:38:50 PM by Gale Walcutt

I'm replacing an 1855 Wakasha with a 5.9 cummins motor(industrial)I have found out that 1850 perkins bell housing will fit my tork and #3 bell housing for the cummins. This is where I need some help !( the flywheel) How do I get the PTO hub bolted to the cummins Flywheel ? does anyone know who made the conversion kit for cummins or oliver. I would really appreciate any help you can give me

Re(1): 1855 Motor

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 19, 2005 at 06:50:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Tom will tell you what to do. Larry


1850 pto problem again

IP: 216.166.159.184 Posted on July 18, 2005 at 02:24:12 PM by Dennis Bernard

Larry, I did discover that the pto shifter on the housing was pushed in. I rotated the shaft until it would not turn freely, and pulled the shifter out. It's out about 1 1/2". However, the bottom shaft still does not turn. I also checked the hydraulics, and they do work properly (lift three point arms, engage couplers etc.). Again, your help with this frustrating matter is greatly appreciated. Re(1): 1850 pto problem again

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 19, 2005 at 06:45:59 AM by Larry Harsin

Apparently something has broken in the PTO clutch assembly. That is what I would check next. You are probably going to have to drain the transmission grease and remove the drive shaft that goes up to the engine. Then unbolt the unit from the tractor and remove it to check out the PTO clutch. You will need a hoist of some sort to lift the unit off of the tractor. Larry


Oliver 1650

IP: 12.179.8.214 Posted on July 18, 2005 at 08:13:36 AM by Randy

Larry, I did a compression check on this 1965 Oliver 1650 w/Indirect injection and the results are, 1-220, 2-225, 3-260, 4-245, 5-225, 6- 240 lbs. This tractor has been a real hard starter since I got it. I had the injectors tested and they were fine. Is this decent compression?? If it is, do you think valve adjustment might help me out?? Thanks, Randy

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on July 18, 2005 at 09:29:16 AM by CEB

Sounds like 1,2 & 5 are a little low. Do you have any blow by coming out the breather tube? If your valves are adjusted too tight (too little clearance) it will definitely contribute to hard starting. Also how's your starter and battery cables? Larry will have some more ideas.

Re(2): Oliver 1650

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 18, 2005 at 09:41:14 AM by Ron

If you'll look in your Operator's Manual you will see that your compression is way too low across the board. It's amazing it starts at all... the engine needs a rebuild.

Re(3): Oliver 1650

IP: 142.161.206.151 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 07:57:29 PM by John

This is an interesting discussion, I have to add my two cents worth! I had a John Deere 5020, these have a brute of an engine, would pull right down to minimium rpm and then climb again, never burnt a drop of oil, but what a pig to start, would always have to park her in the sun lunch time during harvest or I would have to use ether (Which should never be used!) When the batteries finally quit, she had 4 x 6 volt (batteries) and miles of leads. I replaced them with 2 x 12 volt in a box beside the engine (next to the starter) scrapped all the old leads, made up short heavy leads with new soldered on connectors. The tractor was not the same, she started instantly. It is not how long you can crank a diesel but how fast. If your 1650 is turning over a bit sluggish any compression problems will be aggrevated. If I was you I would try a new heavy duty battery with good clean connectors and see if she will start any better. This may be an cheap easy fix. I would not try and check this theory with booster cables unless you have a heavy set with massive jaws. There is no doubt that poor compression with a diesel engine will aggravate starting problems, this is why ether will help but prolonged use will ruin an engine, I will only use it for an emergency start. Good luck, John

Re(4): Oliver 1650

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on July 19, 2005 at 06:40:37 AM by Larry Harsin

One of my main considerations is, does this engine use oil? Does it perform o.k. after it is running? I would definitely look into the electrical system and starter and maybe consider installing an ether injection for starting. I have installed them on this engine and it works great. If the tractor is using oil and the power output is low, then I would definitely consider tearing it down and rebuilding the engine. Larry

Re(5): Oliver 1650

IP: 12.179.8.196 Posted on July 19, 2005 at 11:45:25 AM by Randy

This tractor runs fine once you get it started, not much white smoke. No smoke coming out breather tube. Tractor uses NO oil. Has 43 hours since last oil change and I havent added any oil. It just is so cold blooded. The man that did the compression check said it was just very common for these tractors. I just have a hard time useing the manifold heater button when it is 80 out. It has a new starter, I will check the cables out now. Thanks for the advice. Randy

Re(6): Oliver 1650

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 19, 2005 at 01:33:46 PM by Ron

Randy, Any diesel that needs a heater/ether when it's 80F is on its last legs. The guy who did the test is wrong; that's not common. It's only common among poorly maintained engines. Here's why: The book requires that particular engine to have 350 psi compression MINIMUM in all cylinders. Low compression not only causes hard starting but dilutes the oil with diesel fuel and combustion by-products. They contain sulphur. Sulphur and water (from condensation) in the crankcase makes sulphuric acid. Nothing on this earth eats bearings faster. If you get really lucky a spun bearing will put a rod out the block. That's expensive, a lot more expensive than a sleeve kit. High fuel usage and overheating are also consequences of low compression. Find a diesel mechanic. He will verify the compression figures and then do a leakdown test. This will positively determine if you have ring/wall problems and/or valve/seat problems and you'll know exactly which cylinders are affected. You absolutely did the right thing by having the compression checked. It's the right first step to diagnose any diesel problem... no matter what else you do, until compression is restored, any other effort is a waste of time and money.

Re(7): Oliver 1650

IP: 67.2.248.159 Posted on July 19, 2005 at 11:35:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Ron to a certain point, but that particular engine is somewhat of a sleepy acting engine in some cases. I've seen some of those engines that are that way no matter what you do and I wouldn't spend a whole lot of time and money trying to achieve perfection. Make sure the transfer pump on the engine is working properly. I just had one that a guy had been having a lot of trouble with and one of the check valves in the transfer pump was faulty causing poor performance and hard starting. Larry

Re(8): Oliver 1650

IP: 12.148.204.179 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 10:08:27 AM by Randy

Thanks for the replies. I have a real problem thinking that this engine needs a complete rebuild. It uses no oil, has 30-35 lbs of oil pressure at all times. Never runs hot, even when working it hard on grinder or plowing. I think the head needs valve work and I was hoping for someone to say that could be alot of the problem before I tore the head off.

Re(9): Oliver 1650 IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 10:40:15 AM by Ron

Randy, That's why I suggested you have a diesel mechanic look at it. He will tell you what I told you... the book says to remove the engine from service and rebuild it when any cylinder shows less then 350 psi compression. You can hope for any answer you want but without doing a cylinder leakdown test you are just guessing... and guessing can get mighty expensive.

Re(10): Oliver 1650

IP: 12.179.8.155 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 01:38:47 PM by Randy

Ron, would valves that are carboned up and not seating cause the lower compression readings?? Why do you think the engine needs 3-4 thousand dollars thrown in it when it uses no oil,has good power , has no blow-by and carries good oil pressure?? I remember reading about vavle recession awhile back, being a problem. I just wanted to hear first hand ideas from different people that know these old Olivers good. Thanks, Randy

Re(11): Oliver 1650

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 04:23:42 PM by CEB

Randy, Valve recession is definitely a problem in these engines. I had a real hard starting 1655 diesel, it had to be ethered even when it was 80 degrees outside. I took the head off and took it to the local machine shop. They said the seats needed to be replaced as they were recessed in the head too far, thus causing low compression. I also replaced the sleeves as I had a lot of blow by. My tractor also did not use any oil and maintained at least 30 PSI oil pressure even when run hot under heavy load. I think Ron is on the right track here. While I would be the first to admit to being a total cheapskate, there are times when the only alternative is to let loose of some $$$ to really have it right. Best of luck to you. Now my 1655 starts right up any time its over 32 degrees. I can't find my ether can anymore.


Help, Bypass valve, Super 55

IP: 70.69.93.187 Posted on July 16, 2005 at 10:49:33 PM by Super 55

I have an early Super 55, serial # 16-011-518. I have rebuilt the hydraulic pump and I am replacing all of the "O" rings and seals. I am sort of stuck on one part of the hydraulics. I have the manual and the parts book for Super 55s. I am making sure everything is clean and in working order before I put the transmission cover back on the tractor. In the manual it says to remove the oil pressure bypass spring and valve plunger for inspection. (manual figure showing this is 10-M if you happen to have the manual) but I can not see anyhwere in the casting this could be. Did the early Super 55s not have this feature? I can't even find it in the parts book. Anybody have some information? I am relunctant to put it back together and reinstall the transmission cover before clearing this up. For me time is of the essance. I have this window of opportunity called "summer holidays" that can not be extended.

Re(1): Help, Bypass valve, Super 55

IP: 67.2.248.196 Posted on July 17, 2005 at 06:59:13 AM by Larry Harsin

The plunger and spring is part of the servo valve. You will have to take that apart and clean that out. I have had very little, if any, problem with those. Larry

Re(2): Help, Bypass valve, Super 55

IP: 70.69.93.187 Posted on July 17, 2005 at 04:27:44 PM by Super 55

Larry, I found out why I couldn't find that valve in my parts book. The parts book is for the early manual draft control, not the double back automatic draft control. This is the type of tractor I have, the early version. However, I didn't pick up on it when reading the manual, it doesn't make a specific reference to that. I thought the valve was to by pass the filter if it fails. I have the I & T shop manual as well, and it has both exploded parts views, definately showing the valve on the new version, and not on the early version.


Screen for Pre-Cleaner

IP: 65.172.9.184 Posted on July 16, 2005 at 07:55:35 PM by Jim

I'm working on restoring a 1956 Super 88 Diesel and the screen that is right below the plastic bowl on the air pre-cleaner is rusty and really worn out. Does anyone know where a reproduction/replacement screen is available. Also, Donaldson made most of those pre-cleaners, is one from like a 1850 or JD 3020 interchangeable? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Also, the screen is about 5 1/2 inches in height and about 5 1/2 inches in diameter. It would be for the what I think is called the 7" bowl size pre-cleaner.

Re(1): Screen for Pre-Cleaner

IP: 67.2.248.196 Posted on July 17, 2005 at 06:53:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Sometimes, I get replacement screens at my Case/IH Dealer. I take the screen in with me to get the right one. If you have an AGCO Dealer, he might have one. Valu-Bilt has replacement plastic bowls, but not the screen. Check with JD. I don't know if they would have one that would fit or not. Take your old screen in with you. Larry

Re(2): Screen for Pre-Cleaner

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on July 17, 2005 at 09:33:51 AM by J. Ulmer

You might take it by a Ford-New Holland dealer as the Late 1950 and early 1960 Fords used one like it. Dad had a Super 55 he mounted on a Vick's Hi-Trac high clearance tractor frame with a flame cultivator in the early 60's and several items looked to by supplied by the same vendors (the saginaw steering another commonality)

Re(3): Screen for Pre-Cleaner

IP: 65.103.183.21 Posted on July 20, 2005 at 12:26:14 PM by Jim

I was on the road for work on Monday and found one at the Pocahontas, IA AGCO Dealership. Thanks. Jim


1655 Hydraulic problem

IP: 142.161.206.31 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 10:49:48 PM by John

I solved the 1655 overheating problem, yes it was a leaking head gasket. Now I am ready to start haying, so I hook on the haybine drive to the field and then find she will not lift!! Lifted OK in the yard but now no hydralic pressure. Changed the fluid, pumped it out so the flow is good. Changed the hydralic filter, still no good. Took out the pressure relief valve and put it back in and she lifted great, drove 200 yds and then wouldn't lift. I repeated this three times. Limped back to the farm, backed the 1850 up to the side of the haybine, pluged in the hydraulic line and she lifted good so nothing wrong there. Anyone have any suggestions please? The power steering works good, it is just both external services have no power.

Re(1): 1655 Hydraulic problem

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 05:43:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The relief valve in the 1655, is supposed to have a little screen in there that is about the size of a nickel and is made of brass. Is your screen there and clean? They get ruined and then the hydraulic doesn't work right. Tom at O'Brien Co Impl should have that screen if yours is missing. 800-320-6224. It won' t work right without that screen. I have heard of replacing that style relief valve with one like your 1850 has. Tom will know what you will need. Larry

Re(2): 1655 Hydralic problem

IP: 142.161.206.84 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 06:04:14 PM by John

Once again thanks for the advice. The Hydralic pressure relief valve from the "Fifty" series will fit in the "Fifty Five" providing that the valve seat from the fifty is also used, this can be hooked out with a bent piece of wire. It took me less than 10 mins to swap valve from my old 1850 to the 1655. My tractors are not Hydro Electric and do not have three point hitch. This is a cheap fix as I was quoted $700 for a new 55 valve! all because of a little wear on one tiny ball inside the valve, which is appartently not available. Thanks for the great site, John

Re(3): 1655 Hydralic problem

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on July 16, 2005 at 09:43:56 PM by J. Ulmer

If you want to fix your old valve and the seat is smooth, but the ball is pittted and leaks, go to an industrial bearing supply house and ask to look in their drawers of loose steel balls and you can probably find a new one which will work (close to the same if not identical diameter). It will cost you pocket change and you don't have to have one in a paper package that says "oliver" as a steel ball is a steel ball. I have redone valves, spools, ect on bucket trucks, loaders, and motor graders that the manfacturers were out of business or god knows where, but the sealing o=rings, balls, ect, are pretty much generic. A specific machined part can be hard to find, but honing and getting rid of the pitted rust on a part with new seals does wonders for elderly equipment. Often the hard rubber leaks or is cracked and a new one solves problems even if the metal parts are imperfect. Good luck on your projects! Jerry


Bostrom Seat

IP: 65.118.253.130

Posted on July 14, 2005 at 04:57:32 PM by Dave Drury Larry, Do you know where I can get a hydraulic shock absorber for a Bostrom seat on a 1550 Oliver. I contacted Bostrom and they said it was to old for them to resource a part. Thanks

Re(1): Bostrom Seat

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 05:38:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 or check with salvage yards. Larry

Re(2): Bostrom Seat

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 09:29:22 AM by J. Ulmer

Bostrom furnished seats to lots of equipment manfacturers for different applications. Clark used them on loaders and scrapers and truck manfacturers used them as well. Altough the seat design of the frame varies a lot of them use a common spring and shock. I got one off an old truck seat and repaired my scraper seat. Take the old one to a truck salvage yard if you do not have luck with other places.


1850 p.t.o. problem

IP: 216.166.159.184 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 12:43:02 PM by Dennis Bernard

I have an Oliver 1850, and the snap ring in front of the top pto shaft plug snapped. I have replaced the snap ring, and now when I engage the pto the top shaft(that moves counter clockwise if looking from behind) will move fine, but the bottom shaft does not engage. Is there a linkage that may need attending?. I earlier took the rear housing off and shat out as AI need the lower pto to operate, and everything internal looked as if new no wear etc. This is begining to puzzle me on why the bottom pto will not engage. Your help with this matter is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 p.t.o. problem

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 05:34:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Do you have a Dual Speed PTO? If so, that shifter on the bottom may not be engaged. Otherwise, you may have splines stripped in the flywheel of your tractor. But if that was the case, the hydraulic wouldn't work either. Larry


hp 70 oil filter

IP: 66.21.90.195 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 12:32:58 PM by kevin franklin

What type of oil filter is the oliver hart parr 70 suppose to have. Mine has a round 5-6" across by 4-5" deep that protrudes past the hood and frame. My tractor does not have sides yet, but when I restore, I don't think they will pass the filter. If I do not have the right one do you know were I can get the right one. Thanks so much, Kevin Franklin

Re(1): hp 70 oil filter

IP: 67.2.249.218 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 05:29:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I had a Hart Parr 70 like that, that had the same filter on it. I don't know if that was an after market filter or what. The Hart Parr 70's were different. I'll look and see what I have for a replacement to fit there. Larry

Re(2): hp 70 oil filter

IP: 66.21.90.195 Posted on July 15, 2005 at 08:04:39 AM by kevin franklin

thanks, any help would be greatly appreciated. I found a decal on the side of the canister that said Long Life Oil Filter.

Re(3): hp 70 oil filter

IP: 67.2.248.218 Posted on July 16, 2005 at 07:21:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Upon checking, I have a New Old Stock filter and base. This is the one that was supposed to be on there when it was new. The one you have is an "After Market" type filter. There is a mounting bracket that this base attaches to, it may still be on your tractor. Otherwise, you'll have to fabricate one - that wouldn't be too hard. If you are interested in this, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry


Super 55 Fuel Pump

IP: 209.247.222.45 Posted on July 13, 2005 at 06:32:22 PM by J. Reid

I found diesel fuel in the crankcase of my 55. I pulled the fuel pump and found the diaphragm has a crack in it. Can I find a replacement diaphragm anywhere or will I need to repace the whole fuel pump? Where can I find either one of the above...thanks

Re(1): Super 55 Fuel Pump

IP: 67.2.249.52 Posted on July 13, 2005 at 11:24:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Korves Bros. has just the diaphram. 618-939-6681 or email korves@htc.net Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Fuel Pump

IP: 209.247.222.49 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 08:56:18 PM by J. Reid

Thanks, guess I should have waited one day for your answer. I ordered a new pump from a dealer in Sullivan, MO. $89.00. Hope it is the right pump. If not I will get back to you for the diaphram........thanks jerry

Re(3): Super 55 Fuel Pump

IP: 67.2.242.96 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 11:53:36 PM by Larry Harsin

That is not a bad price for a new pump. Larry


1650

IP: 207.231.118.41 Posted on July 12, 2005 at 04:47:38 AM by corre

Iam wondering if you could tell me the weight of the front cast on a 1650 diesel the piece supporting the hood and front side panels thank you for your help corre

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.248.124 Posted on July 12, 2005 at 07:35:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. My guess would be approx. 180 lbs. Larry

Re(2): 1650

IP: 207.231.118.198 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 04:41:31 AM by corre

thank you for the help thought it would be be more thanks again


660 HC wiring

IP: 70.69.93.187 Posted on July 12, 2005 at 01:01:51 AM by Super 55

There has been a fellow on YTMag looking for a wiring diagram for a 6 volt 660. I can't find one in the manual. It shows both the HC and diesel as 12 volt. Were there any 6 volt 660 HC tractors?

Re(1): 660 HC wiring

IP: 67.2.248.124 Posted on July 12, 2005 at 07:32:57 AM by Larry Harsin

No. There wasn't one. They were all 12 volt. Larry

Re(2): 660 HC wiring

IP: 70.69.93.187 Posted on July 13, 2005 at 00:14:25 AM by Super 55

Thanks Larry, I emailed the fellow and haven't received a reply. So, I don't know why he thinks he has a 6 volt.

Re(3): 660 HC wiring

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on July 14, 2005 at 07:39:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Possibly he has a S66. The first 2 years of the S66 were 6 volt. The last 2 years were 12 volt. Larry


2050 reads hot

IP: 207.254.120.210 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 11:20:25 PM by Curt Wehlander

ok guys, here's one that has me stumped. Some time ago I posted a question about my 2050 overheating. I received excellent replies to my problem. Easy, plugged radiator. I installed a new radiator. Boy, they're not cheap. Still my guage shot up to hot instantly. I checked my thermostat, it works fine. I checked the temperature of the coolant, that read cool. I replaced the temp sender and the temp guage. It still reads hot. The engine does not appear to run hot. I can touch the thermostat housing and block. I also replaced hoses, no collapsing hoses. The only thing I can think of is that the water pump is giving me a problem, but it seems that the water circulates. Any ideas? I want to get this giant back in the field.

Re(1): 2050 reads hot

IP: 69.179.1.230 Posted on July 12, 2005 at 06:52:38 AM by Ron

How did you check the temperature of the coolant? First step in figuring out any overheating problem is to verify it's really overheating. You can use a non-contact IR thermometer and check at the radiator. Or you can use a known good mechanical temperature gauge. You can often rent the latter from an auto parts store. If they show normal temperature, the cooling system, including pump, is fine. The tractor sending unit and gauge must both be grounded. This means clean threads on the sending unit (no tape/sealer) and engine. The gauge must grounded to the dash. You can check this with the OHM setting of your DMM. As a last resort I'd replace the wire from the sending unit to the gauge. Because your gauge shot up instantly, I can almost assure you it's a grounding/wiring problem.

Re(2): 2050 reads hot

IP: 67.2.248.124 Posted on July 12, 2005 at 07:30:56 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is not running hot, it has to be in the gauge, the sender or the wiring. Larry


Oliver 77

IP: 68.115.36.245 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 10:51:21 PM by Dave

I'm looking into an Oliver 77. Is it possible or resonible to have power steering added to this machine? Any other comments regarding an Oliver 77 would be greatly appricated, thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 67.2.248.40 Posted on July 13, 2005 at 07:39:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Char-Lynn made an after market power steering for Oliver 77's. I have one. If you are interested, email me. An Oliver 77 is a good tractor to restore. Parts availability is good. Larry


Hyraulic Fluid in 2 Speed Hydraul Shift?

IP: 12.100.121.94 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 09:38:36 AM by DuaneW

Larry, The ATF in the 2 speed in getting dark colored and I am wanting to change it. I have read where you can replace the ATF with Hydraulic fluid, as the later models came with Hydraulic fluid new. The tractor is a 1966 indirect injection 1650. Thanks, DuaneW

Re(1): Hyraulic Fluid in 2 Speed Hydraul Shift?

IP: 69.179.1.230 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 10:00:49 AM by Ron

Nope. Use ATF. If the ATF is getting dark red and/or smells burnt it's being overheated. I'd find and fix that problem first.

Re(2): Hyraulic Fluid in 2 Speed Hydraul Shift?

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 07:04:38 PM by lyle

hey Duane what ive done with the 2 speeds and 3 speeds also is use Case IH Hytran ,it works well and can take higher temps than others,thanks Lyle

Re(3): Hyraulic Fluid in 2 Speed Hydraul Shift?

IP: 67.2.248.183 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 10:24:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I use Dexron-Mercon ATF. Larry

Re(4): Hyraulic Fluid in 2 Speed Hydraul Shift?

IP: 12.100.121.94 Posted on July 13, 2005 at 06:09:25 AM by DuaneW

Thanks, I guess that I'll just stick with Dextron-Mercon ATF, Does the latest versions work fine?

Re(5): Hyraulic Fluid in 2 Speed Hydraul Shift?

IP: 67.2.248.40 Posted on July 13, 2005 at 07:40:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Larry


PTO Shield

IP: 205.188.116.10 Posted on July 10, 2005 at 11:46:59 PM by jerry

Larry: Will an Oliver 60 PTO shield fit a 70? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): PTO Shield

IP: 67.2.248.72 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 07:01:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will. Larry


550 won't shift out of reverse

IP: 207.127.235.188 Posted on July 9, 2005 at 07:17:55 PM by John Capehart

Our 550 suddenly can't shift out of reverse. The shifter moves to the neutral position, but the transmission stays in reverse. Is there a loose fork that can be fixed without tearing down the whole transmisssion?

Re(1): 550 won't shift out of reverse

IP: 67.2.249.80 Posted on July 9, 2005 at 11:21:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure what you are going to find. You'll have to unbolt the hydraulic system with the 3 pt. arms and remove it and see what is wrong. Larry


1850 hydraulics

IP: 66.163.150.45 Posted on July 8, 2005 at 02:53:05 PM by Rydell Becker

I have a 1850 and i would like to no how to bump up the hydraulic pressure i was told it could be done.

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.40 Posted on July 8, 2005 at 08:47:46 PM by Larry Harsin

There is an exposed nut on the casting below the seat. It's on the right hand front on the hydraulic casting. Simply unscrew this big nut and add 2 or 3 shims. This should raise your pressure. Check it with a gauge and don't exceed 2100 lbs at full throttle. Larry


hydraulic fluid

IP: 205.167.80.168 Posted on July 7, 2005 at 02:31:07 PM by Norma Ruffing

My "fellow"recently suffered a stroke. I know how to use our 1265 Oliver, which we've had for about 28 years, but I don't know how to do simple maintenance and repair which he always did. When I recently used the blade implement to scrape the driveway, it was bouncing up and down. My guy said it needed hydraulic fluid. I can't find the 1265 manual. Do you know where I could get one or see one on-line or could you tell me how to replace the fluid? Thanks Norma

Re(1): hydraulic fluid

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on July 7, 2005 at 07:02:45 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. This helps support the Museum. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. The 1265 was built by Fiat (in Italy) for Oliver. I am not real familiar with this tractor and don't want to advise on how to add hydraulic fluid. Perhaps someone else will or the Manual will tell you. Larry


1800 A rear rims

IP: 12.162.183.143 Posted on July 7, 2005 at 02:05:47 PM by Anthony Carnes

Larry, I am looking for a rear rim for an Oliver 1800 A series diesel tractor. Do you have any or know where I might locate one. Tire size is 18.4 X 34. Thanks. Anthony

Re(1): 1800 A rear rims

IP: 69.179.1.230 Posted on July 7, 2005 at 03:30:55 PM by Ron

Try http://www.millertire.com/.

Re(2): 1800 A rear rims

IP: 67.2.248.67 Posted on July 7, 2005 at 11:04:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I have this rim. Email me: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry


Super 88 steering

IP: 63.163.138.86 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 07:02:11 PM by Mike Schuppe

Larry, I was wondering if I could use the power beyond port om my super 88 to run a charlyn power steering motor? If so would you refresh my memory as to which port is pressure and which is return. Any sugestions would be appreciated.

Re(1): Super 88 steering

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 11:44:12 PM by Larry Harsin

It is doable. I would reccommend that you get a flow divider. The power beyond port is the front port on the left side of the hydraulic unit. The return is the 3/8'" pipe plug on the front of the unit by the filter. This 3/8" plug will be used at the pressure port to block the passage internally. The threaded passage is about 2" inside of where you remove the 1/2" pipe plug. Larry


Removing Steering Wheel

IP: 65.172.9.26 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 01:58:49 PM by Jim

We are restoring a Super 88 and want to replace the steering wheel. Took off the metal cap and tryed to get the big nut loose but can't get it to loosen. Any suggestions on holding the wheel in place and getting the nut loose and wheel off? Thanks. Jim.

Re(1): Removing Steering Wheel

IP: 69.179.1.230 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 02:31:04 PM by Ron

Spray PB Blaster on it, tap it gently with a tack hammer a few times... you are trying to set up a vibration that helps the PB get into the threads... then let it sit overnight. With two people one holds the wheel the other applies steady pressure with the wrench. It's going to be tight so don't be afraid of it. With one person you can tie the wheel off in two places with sturdy rope attached to any convenient sturdy points on the tractor.

Re(2): Removing Steering Wheel

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 10:02:06 PM by lyle

hey Jim if you are going to replace the wheel anyway just beat the old rubber off the old wheel and heat it up with a tourch,these things can really be on tight but make sure you get enough of the old rubber off because it will catch fire,have to be a little careful Lyle

Re(3): Removing Steering Wheel

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 11:38:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I take an acetylene torch and heat the nut then use an impact wrench to take it off. Then I use an air chisel to remove the steering wheel. Come in from behind and drive against the steering wheel hub. Larry Re(4): Removing Steering Wheel

IP: 65.172.9.119 Posted on July 9, 2005 at 06:19:02 PM by Jim

Thanks for the advice. Finally got the wheel


hydralic pump

IP: 64.250.195.57 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 01:47:56 PM by mitch

While operating my 1850d a grinding noise was heard and all hydralics quit. I am assuming the pump went out if this is the case, what is the best source of a replacement pump?

Re(1): hydralic pump

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 11:34:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


oil seals

IP: 65.54.155.46 Posted on July 5, 2005 at 09:11:56 PM by Gary

I have a 1949 oliver standard 88 and a 1964 770 with an oil leak the leaks are coming from the front timing cover seal around the crankshaft pully.the 770 is a diesel with a cast iron cover and the 88 has a kerosene engine with a stamped steel cover. the seals are felt. I was wondering what is the proper procedure for replacing the seal We have recently rebuilt both engines and installed new seals but would like to know how to stop them from leaking. thanks

Re(1): oil seals

IP: 69.179.1.230 Posted on July 5, 2005 at 09:58:37 PM by Ron

Felt seals leak a little. They just do. You can minimize leaking by proper installation... the covers must be perfectly clean and the seals soaked in oil for 20-30 minutes. If the amount of leaking is small, you might try just leaving them be. If the engines are used often the leaking may become minimal. You may also notice that if you leave the engines sit unused for several months, they will start leaking again. Modern rubber seals were a real improvement!

Re(2): oil seals

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 08:25:05 AM by Larry Harsin

There is more to the seal than just that felt behind the pulley. There is also a spring loaded cork on the backside of the timing covers you describe. Therefore, if you havn't already done so, you will have to remove those timing covers to replace the spring loaded cork seal. This also means that you will have to remove the water pump before you can remove the cover. Larry

Re(3): oil seals

IP: 4.249.201.246 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 12:06:15 PM by Larry from MD

I have found a number of seals not installed properly. Often the pully is not cleaned good and the seal is too tight to slide up on the pully like it should.You should make the cork slide easy up on the pully before you install.


Cockshutt 1900

IP: 146.82.5.2 Posted on July 5, 2005 at 06:58:27 PM by brad

i have a couple of questions first i have an oliver shop book how do i know if i have a dual speed pto . next i am loosing alot of power pulling hills in the detroit do you think it could be the fuel filters if so where can i get them.

Re(1): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 08:19:31 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1900 was an either-or, which means you either had 540 rpm or 1000 rpm. You didn't have both. However, it does have an engine speed option where the 540 shaft is inserted in the top hole to give you engine speed. There is also another possibility. It is possible to install a duel speed unit from a 50 series tractor in your 1900. This can be easily identified by the presence of a shifter in the lower right hand portion of the unit. The slowing down on the uphill is probably a lack of fuel problem - possibly the filters or a restricted fuel outlet on the bottom of the fuel tank. These are the first things I would check. You can get filters from an AGCO Dealer or a NAPA Dealer. Larry

Re(2): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on July 10, 2005 at 00:10:22 AM by J. Ulmer

Check your fuel filters AND your air filter. Carquest, Baldwin, and everyone else should be able to cross your fuel, oil, and air filters. The Detroit Diesel is a two-stroke and relies on pressured intake air to fully load the cylinders through ports at the bottom of the cylinder walls each time the piston goes to the bottom. The exhaust gases from the combustion on the down stroke are pushed out by clean, incoming air pressurerized by the blower on the side of the motor. Dirty air filters will restrict suction and consequently drop the air-box pressure resulting in power loss, rpm loss, and torque loss. If your exhaust smoke starts turning black, you are getting full fuel load for the air put in. Clean/replace the air filters (some are dry cartridge and some have oil bath...look and see) and if your exhaust stays clear look to fuel starving or too tall a gear for the hill. Ask a trucker who drove an old two-cycle Detroit about missing a gear and losing rpm's on a hill!!! If filters don't fix your problem, you will need someone who knows what they are doing to assist you. The timing is done on the direct injectors with specialized feeler gauges, and they can pull and check injectors for correct opening pressure and pattern. If you EVER get water in your fuel through the filters, those pencil injectors are notorious for blowing the tip off ( resulting in a fourth of the power going out the exhaust stack.) If you ever let a detroit get hot they are also notorious for cracking the heads between the valves and then loosening and throwing valve seats out ( resulting in no compression or firing on that cylinder) A good mechanic can pull the cover off the head and hold the camfollowers off the injector of each cylinder in turn and tell if it is firing and go from there. Even with good hearing all those powered strokes can cover up a miss/partial misfiring cylinder. Good Luck!


Oliver 1955

IP: 4.228.27.119 Posted on July 4, 2005 at 09:42:05 PM by Chris

I have been thinking of buying a 1974 Oliver 1955(it is out of state and I have not seen it) with a new 310 Waukesha (less than 300 hrs.), powershift trans, has wheel weights, cab (AC is there but not working)new tires and seat. Claims the elec. system (cooks battery), lights and brakes need work. I realize I'm not giving you much to work with, but with this limited information, what would you think a reasonable price for this tractor is? Are there any specific questions to ask, or anything to look out for?

Re(1): Oliver 1955

IP: 69.179.1.230 Posted on July 5, 2005 at 07:24:05 AM by Ron

There are no "new" Waukesha engines. The seller should have said "rebuilt". The difference is important as the word "rebuilt" doesn't mean anything. Some people will install new bearings and call the engine rebuilt. A major rebuild means the entire engine is remachined and all worn parts are replaced. Most rebuilds are somewhere in-between. Why was it rebuilt? Does he have receipts for parts and labor? Rebuilt engines also vary in quality from poor to good; depends on who did the work. Was it done buy a shop with an experienced, knowledgeable machinist? What is the shop's reputation? My $.02 is to take a pass. The reason is that anybody who would not spend the few bucks for a new alternator/regulator (that's the overcharging problem) after spending a ton of money, supposedly, on a rebuild is telling me that the "rebuild" didn't fix whatever engine problem he had (most likley overheating) and he doesn't want to sink any more money into it. If you really want what appears to be a "project tractor", take a tractor mechanic with you and have it checked out. Be prepared to walk away from it as it might not make sense to sink a ton of money into that tractor. A field-ready 1974 1955 in average condition can be had for $5,000 - $6,000, depends on where you live.

Re(2): Oliver 1955

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on July 5, 2005 at 01:31:10 PM by CEB

I would have to agree. I smell a rat. Any reasonable honest person would spend a little extra money to fix the electrical problem. The wiring isn't that complicated on a diesel and you can buy a new alternator for $50-$100 just about anywhere. I would run from that one.

Re(3): Oliver 1955

IP: 4.228.27.198 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 10:01:26 PM by Chris

Thank you all for your response. I really appreciate your time to respond to my questions. If you don't mind, I have a few more. The engine was a new short block bought in 1995(the owner bought it thinking it was complete) he then bought the rest spending $6,500 (he has receipts). The engine work was done by a nearby Oliver dealer whom I presume was reputable. The owner also told me that the factory oil pressure setting was too low and had it set higher (by a few pounds). I don't think the owner wants to put any more money in this machine since it is only worth $5,000. I thought this one sounded like it might be okay since the engine was "new". If you think it still sounds like a bad deal, I would like your opinion. If there are more questions I should ask or anything else to look out for please let me know.

Re(4): Oliver 1955 IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on July 6, 2005 at 08:10:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with these guys. I have nothing to add. Larry

Re(5): Oliver 1955

IP: 4.228.27.82 Posted on July 7, 2005 at 07:52:15 PM by Chris

Thank you all for your response. I really appreciate your time to respond to my questions. If you don't mind, I have a few more. The engine was a new short block bought in 1995(the owner bought it thinking it was complete) he then bought the rest spending $6,500 (he has receipts). The engine work was done by a nearby Oliver dealer whom I presume was reputable. The owner also told me that the factory oil pressure setting was too low and had it set higher (by a few pounds). I don't think the owner wants to put any more money in this machine since it is only worth $5,000. I thought this one sounded like it might be okay since the engine was "new". If you think it still sounds like a bad deal, I would like your opinion. If there are more questions I should ask or anything else to look out for please let me know.

Re(6): Oliver 1955

IP: 67.2.248.72 Posted on July 11, 2005 at 07:12:07 AM by Larry Harsin

How many hours have been put on this machine since the 1995 overhaul? It might be ready for another overhaul by now. Does this tractor run? If you like the tractor and are looking for a project, buy it. Larry


fenders & grille

IP: 207.69.138.144 Posted on July 2, 2005 at 07:14:39 PM by mark wright

i have a oliver model 1265 diesel tractor that iam looking for fenders &a grille for, serial #302081

Re(1): fenders & grille

IP: 67.2.242.103 Posted on July 2, 2005 at 10:15:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tim Smith at email: smittytractor@aol.com or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932 or Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557. Larry


Holley rotor & cap

IP: 69.179.34.40 Posted on July 1, 2005 at 11:03:44 AM by Ron

For those of you who have had trouble finding rotors and caps for the Holley distributor used in most 4 digit tractors: NAPA has them listed incorrectly in their computer. The rotor is cross-referenced to a non-existent part number. My NAPA counterman is a great detective and located the correct parts for me. They are: Cap NAPA/ECHLIN #FA87 - Rotor NAPA/ECHLIN #FA89 Any NAPA store can get them overnight for you.


Re(1): Holley rotor & cap

IP: 67.2.249.188 Posted on July 1, 2005 at 09:15:06 PM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for the info. Larry


white 2-70

IP: 67.4.148.243 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 09:29:56 PM by elijah quist

my dad purchased a white 2-70 and there was 2 cans of starting fluid in the cab shure enough when its cold it wont start with out it. does it have glow plugs or could it be somthing else, I dont know much about deisls thanks

Re(1): white 2-70

IP: 4.188.134.249 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:23:38 PM by mike

I'm don't think the 2-70 had glow plugs, I know ours don't for sure.

Re(2): white 2-70

IP: 4.188.134.249 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:31:04 PM by Bob

I don't know about all 2-70's but mine has a self injected starting fluid of some sort on it, no glow plugs and is harder to start in the winter. Our 2-105 with glow plugs will always start right up in any weather.

Re(3): white 2-70

IP: 205.188.117.9 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:34:25 PM by doug wenig

the first thing i would check is the injectors to see if they are sprayin right and the pressure is correct and also check the pump timing [4 degrees BTDC] if that dont help i would do a compression check to see if the valves are ok or if the rings are worn and also check yer valve clearence[.030 on both]

Re(4): white 2-70

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:51:46 PM by Larry Harsin

The 2 - 70 is equipped with a manifold heater. If the tractor is original, it is likely that it is worn enough that it does not have good compression. But there are many things that cause hard starting. Some of them are: low compression, low cranking speed, worn injection pump and/or injectors, etc. If you do not have the tools or experience, I would suggest you employ a qualified person to check out your engine. Larry


Oliver firing order

IP: 65.6.229.158 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 08:42:03 PM by Bill Salley

I was using the tractor and then it would not start. Has fuel and spark. Friend disconnected the distributor. Replaced points and ign coil. Maybe we have the firing order wrong when reassembling. Do you know the firing order?

Re(1): Oliver firing order

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:44:10 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is a 4 cylinder, the firing order is 1 2 4 3. If it is a 6 cylinder, the firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Larry


77 Charging problems

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 09:07:38 AM by Chuck

My 1955 Super 77 Diesel has always had charging problems. I just pulled it in the shop last night and noticed the polarity is reversed. Does anyone know the procedure for switching it back? Also, I have had the generator looked at before and everything was fine, just won't charge when on the tractor. Any thoughts?

Re(1): 77 Charging problems

IP: 67.2.248.50 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 07:49:20 PM by Larry Harsin

The S77 was originally built with a positive ground. Hook up the batteries so that they are positive ground. Then, start your tractor and see if it works. If it doesn't charge, polarize the generator. Use a jumper wire from the battery post on the regulator and momentarily arc it to the armature post on the generator. This should polarize your generator to the tractor. Now, start the engine and since it has been hooked up backwards, your ammeter may show discharge instead of charge. If it does, then you will have to reverse the wires on the ammeter and you should be good to go. Larry

Re(2): 77 Charging problems

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on June 30, 2005 at 08:59:13 AM by Chuck

Thanks, I did this all last night and so far so good. I also changed my idle speed so that I am both, charging at 12 volts instead of 11.5, and my PTO actually will run at 540 at full throttle.

Re(3): 77 Charging problems

IP: 69.179.34.40 Posted on June 30, 2005 at 09:12:45 AM by Ron

A 12 volt battery is actually a 12.6 volt battery and in order to overcome internal resistance it requires 13.5 to 15.5 (nominal 14.5) volts from the gen/alt to charge. In other words, you are seeing battery, not generator, voltage so the battery is not being charged. Any NAPA store can test the generator. If it's OK then the regulator is shot, most likely points welded from wrong polarity. They sell replacements and if you properly polarize the generator upon installation you should be in business.


ROPS for 1600

IP: 68.238.178.247 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 08:11:45 AM by Mike Neary

Hello, Can you tell me if a Roll Over Protective Structure (ROPS) is available for my 1600? Any recommendations on where to buy one? I have read allot of the safety information on the web about rollover hazards, and driving precautions to prevent rollovers. However, I did not see anything about slope angles to avoid, or the effectivness of rear tire spread (track width) versus slope angle. Can you provide any reference material that I could read to learn more. We are using the tractor on the rolling hills of Pennslyvania. I know my cousin's had rolled, and lived to tell about it, our old Farm-All tractor with the close set front wheels on the same property. Thanks for any help you can provide. Mike Neary

Re(1): ROPS for 1600

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 09:05:46 AM by J. Ulmer

Primarily it requires common sense as to the limitations for use. Excess speed bounces and accelerates the rolling energies which can result in tipping. Here in the Texas panhandle it is flat as a pancake, but I have lost a good friend who was older and should have know better but rolled an international utility tractor while shredding weeds at the edge of a tailwater pit when it rolled over. You have seen the tips on driving and turning downhill/slope, taking care on letting out the clutch when tilted, ect., but care and patience are the most critical prerequisites. The rolling potential occurs when the center of gravity of your equipment passesoutside the line of your wheel track. Hence, the wider your wheelbase the more angle the machine can be tilted. Looking at the front and rear draw a verticle line from the center of your machine from what you perceive to be the center of gravity (around the fan hub in front and lift arm pivot at rear) to the ground. When that imaginary line's intersection with the ground aproaches the treadline of your tires you are approaching a tilting situation. That is why a wide front end tractor is more stable than a tri-cycle set up. Be careful and take your time as rushing triggers many accidents.

Re(2): ROPS for 1600

IP: 69.179.13.240 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 12:29:43 PM by Ron

You are so right! Last summer we had a local kid who was driving his 1650 home over the same pasture he had done so many hundreds of times before. He was going way too fast when he hit a hole, flipped the tractor, and killed himself.

Re(3): ROPS for 1600

IP: 67.2.248.50 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 07:42:19 PM by Larry Harsin

For a ROPS, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Jerry gave you some great safety advice above. You could also ask Tom if he has some printed material on this subject. Larry

Re(4): ROPS for 1600

IP: 68.238.178.247 Posted on June 30, 2005 at 10:40:36 PM by Mike Neary

Thank you for the advice. So far we have been staying off the steeper slopes and we have reduced the gear while mowing down to 1L or 2L. We need to perform a good walk down of the property to find ruts, holes, stc. My brother-in-law hit a hidden stump/cut-log while moving and he popped the front wheels up. We are very cautious at this point.


1600 front wheel support structure

IP: 68.238.178.247 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 08:01:06 AM by Mike Neary

This tractor has wide-spread front wheels, about 4 feet apart. The wheels are attached to the tractor with an "L" shaped tube structure, which is horizontal where connected to the tractor, and then it points downward to where the wheel hub is attached. My question is regarding the angle the downward piece makes with the ground. The left side is canted forward about 5 or 10 degrees, while the right side is angled backwards about 5 or 10 degrees. Is this the design of the steering system, or do I have a tractor with two left steering arms; one installed backwards on the right side.

P.S. Thanks for all your help on my last two questions regarding fuel in the water and the charging system. It is much appreciated!!

Re(1): 1600 front wheel support structure

IP: 67.2.248.50 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 07:33:03 PM by Larry Harsin

Those pieces are supposed to be interchangable left or right. I would guess that you have some pins and holes that are worn on the front axle member, possibly on both sides. This might angle them differently and make them look goofy. One of them could have been misdrilled or miswelded when they were made, but usually there is wear. Larry


1355 Oliver 4X4 Diesel

IP: 216.134.162.122 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 00:21:33 AM by Doug

I have just aquired a 1355 Oliver and I think I'm hooked. I'm out in Oregon. I have some Ford,Massey and Deere experience. I have a factory parts book and am ordering the owners and shop manuels. I need to change the hydraulic oil and I can't for the life of me where to refill it (No I'm not going to drain it until I know how to fill it). Thanks for any info. Previuos owner retired and moved out of town and there doesn't seem to be a wealth of Oliver knowledge out here.

Re(1): 1355 Oliver 4X4 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.69 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 07:55:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't had experience with the Fiats, so I can't help you. Hopefully when you get the books you will be able to figure it out. So far, I would say you are doing things right. Larry


Rear end leak Super 55

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on June 28, 2005 at 11:34:30 PM by Larry

I just drained and cleaned out the rear end on my Super 55. I used some diesel fuel to wash it down and dried it out before I put in new 90 weight oil. Now it leaks around the brake shaft that goes across the body. Any ideas on how to stop the leak?

Re(1): Rear end leak Super 55

IP: 206.74.182.103 Posted on June 28, 2005 at 11:51:03 PM by J. Mash

LARRY, THAT CROSSHAFT HAS A SEAL ON EACH SIDE. I HAD TO PUT SOME IN BOTH OF OUR 550'S. YOU JUST HAVE TO REMOVE THE FLOOR BOARDS AND BRAKE PEDALS.THEN PULL THE SEALS OUT. DO NOT FORGET TO DRAIN YOUR GEAR OIL OUT FIRST.

Re(2): Rear end leak Super 55

IP: 69.179.13.240 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 03:08:52 PM by Ron

For future reference... diesel fuel contains sulphur. Sulphur mixed with water from condensation makes sulphuric acid. Sulphuric acid eats seals faster than you can say "oh, darn"! Better deal is to use synthetic oil as a flush. It's base stock is an industrial solvent but it has no sulphur so it won't eat seals. Sure, it costs more than diesel but it's cheaper than replacing seals. Even better is to use synthetics as lube. I run it in all my equipment, including tractors; oil, ATF, gear lube, even chassis grease. It keeps all the dirt in suspension so that when I drain them the units are all perfectly clean inside. Never leaks, never harms a seal.

Re(2): Rear end leak Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.152 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 00:09:53 AM by Larry Harsin There you go........! You just have to replace the seals! Larry

Re(3): Rear end leak Super 55

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 09:10:40 AM by J. Ulmer

Don't feel bad as your tractor's gears will love their new oil bath, but I know from experience that it's the pits to have stuff held together with old dirt and grease!! :-)


2255

IP: 216.51.132.142 Posted on June 28, 2005 at 08:52:37 AM by Don

I have a chance to buy a 2255 with the 3208 cat but it smokes white when you start it and then it puts a lot of pressure in the cooling system. The guy wants $3000 and says it has 2 bad sleeves one on each bank. what do you think Larry? thanks

Re(1): 2255

IP: 69.179.13.240 Posted on June 28, 2005 at 11:52:48 AM by Ron

Unless you have the time and money to rebuild the engine or swap a rebuilt 3208 into it, I'd pass. I've seen field-ready 2255s sell for about what a rebuilt 3208 costs. Any large diesel shop can get you prices.

Re(2): 2255

IP: 4.245.41.29 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 05:03:18 AM by mark

the 3208 cats are notorious for blowing head gaskets.thats where the pressure in the coolant system is coming from.just my opinion the 3208 is junk.

Re(3): 2255

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 10:49:19 PM by lyle

hi Don hows it going? looks like you are getting all kinds of advice on this 2255, just a few things i wondered are do you really want this tractor? if you are like me and you think its something you would like and the thing is really straight, take a chance on it, i really like the 3208 I have one in my combine it is a very snappy motor and i have never seen anything start like it, around here there are alot of salvage yards that have these motors for about 2000.00 and most of them dont have more than 3500 hours on them. good luck Lyle

Re(4): 2255

IP: 67.2.249.35 Posted on June 28, 2005 at 08:57:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't like the sound of the engine putting compression in the radiator because that is not a sleeved engine. There is something else that is wrong with that engine. I'd be wary. I think there is a possibility that you would have to do a major repair or get a different engine. Larry

Re(5): 2255

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 10:55:50 PM by J. Ulmer

I concur with Ron as to the versitility of the different models of 3208...I've got one in the Blue-Bird All American bus I am building into a camper which was a schools activity bus and one in an old 613 Cat elevating scraper...and we spent over $7000 to have it completely redone to get rid of the scraper. The person selling it is not very knowledgeble and singing you a song as the 3208 DOES NOT have sleeves as Ron indicated...A bad cylinder CAN be bored and a thin, dry sleeve put in as a patch, but you start spending lots of money to fix it when there are lots of good eng;ines around which can be removed from bad machines...just find something which was spec'd close to the industrial constant speed a tractor works under. A Truck or Bus engine can be pumped to lots different output ranges. It is comparable to the wide variations available in the IHC DT-466. Finding another tractor might be a better option.

Re(6): 2255

IP: 69.179.13.240 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 12:21:55 PM by Ron

Really? Any engine that's overheated will warp a head which causes it to move and that's what tears the head gasket. The 3208 is no better or worse in that regard than any other engine. 3208s have been used in nearly every application a diesel engine can be used in. They are not the most powerful engines ever built and some people don't like the no-sleeve design but they are highly prized for being very reliable. To call them "junk" indicates to me you know nothing about them.

Re(7): 2255

IP: 216.51.132.142 Posted on June 30, 2005 at 06:41:05 AM by Don

Ok thanks much to all of you for you help. Don


1655 engine block

IP: 69.40.131.10 Posted on June 27, 2005 at 08:07:46 AM by Derek D

Larry, Is the block for a 1655 (283 CID) the same as a block for a 1755 (310 CID)? I know the hood and grille is a few inches wider on a 1755, so I was unsure if the blocks were the same. I'm hoping to put a 1755 crankshaft and connecting rods in a 1655 to make a 310 CID engine. Thanks.

Re(1): 1655 engine block

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on June 27, 2005 at 10:25:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Those are 2 different engines. The parts book gives 2 different part's numbers for them. It Miiiii.....ght work but I doubt it. Laarry

Re(2): 1655 engine block

IP: 69.179.13.240 Posted on June 27, 2005 at 03:45:17 PM by Ron

If you are anticipating simply dropping the parts into the 1655 block, that won't work. At a minimum there is some machine shop work involved. You'll need to get the service manuals for both engines and you and your machinist will have to determine what work is required and if it's even worthwhile to pursue.

Re(3): 1655 engine block

IP: 205.188.117.10 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:22:30 PM by doug wenig

the 283 and 310 direct injection diesels use the same conn rod all you need is a 310 crank and 1755 pistons they also use the same camshaft the only difference will be the 283 head has smaller valves than the 310 and smaller head bolts[9/16 verses 5/8] i have put many of these engines together this way and have had no trouble i just set the fuel for 85 horsepower and let them run


Super 88 rear end howl

IP: 71.32.171.250 Posted on June 24, 2005 at 11:33:40 PM by Ray

I'm restoring a Super 88 just like my granddad had, and was wondering just how much whine the rear end should have. In gears 1,2,3 and 4 there is a slight whine when driving, but in 5th gear there is almost no whine. Then when you hit 6th, the thing really starts to howl. It's the same whine as in the lower gears, just much louder. Is this normal?

Re(1): Super 88 rear end howl

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 25, 2005 at 06:34:02 AM by Ron

Worn gears howl. I'll bet that tractor spent quite a bit of time in 6th gear and very little in 5th.

Re(2): Super 88 rear end howl

IP: 67.2.249.159 Posted on June 25, 2005 at 10:11:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. This is normal. It is nothing to get excited about. Larry


oliver 1450 4wd

IP: 67.141.129.70 Posted on June 23, 2005 at 07:50:57 PM by rusty blalock

i have a 1450 oliver 4wd that i have a few questions about. the modle# is 345-82012 and the serial# is 151847. if you can please tell me what year this is and what the hourse power is? and what engin it is? it has a 4cly diesel engin now and i thank it may be the fiat. Ive been told that it will take a master kit to build this engin and that some of the parts can no longer be found. is there another diesel engin that will fit? i would like to get this oliver going again and use it.

Re(1): oliver 1450 4wd

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on June 23, 2005 at 11:47:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1450 was built in Italy by Fiat. It was built in 1968. It has 60 HP. The engine is a Fiat 268 cubic inch. I do not know about a rebuild kit or if another engine will fit. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 and see what he says. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1450 4wd

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 24, 2005 at 08:09:48 AM by Ron

You were told right. I'm not aware of any popular engine that will bolt in place but if you have enough time and money you can repower it with any engine of about the same length and width. Of course, it might just be faster and cheaper to buy a used running tractor that meets your needs.


Torque settings

IP: 142.161.206.45 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 09:09:17 PM by John

Can anyone provide me with the cylinder head bolt torque settings and valve tappet clearances for the 6 cylinder Wakausha diesel engine, as fitted to the Cockshutt 1655?

Re(1): Torque settings

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 09:33:13 PM by Ron

You'll need the service manual to get the proper bolt sequence and oil hole. It also has the other information.

Re(2): Torque settings

IP: 142.161.204.27 Posted on June 23, 2005 at 08:44:59 AM by John

My old service manual is missing the page with the settings, I have everything else, thanks. John

Re(3): Torque settings

IP: 67.2.248.127 Posted on June 24, 2005 at 07:50:27 AM by Larry Harsin

The cylinder head bolts - center 6 are 150. The rest of them are 133. The main bolts are 133. The rods 50. The flywheel 69. Larry

Re(4): Torque settings

IP: 205.188.117.9 Posted on June 29, 2005 at 11:28:05 PM by doug wenig

the NEW rod bolt torque is 44-46 ft pounds to keep from breakin the bolts this is for both old and new style bolts all the rest of the figures stay the same as larry said and the valve clearance is .030 on both valves


oliver 88 pushrods

IP: 161.184.20.221 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 02:33:40 PM by jim

Larry are there different diameter pushrods for the 88 gas engines. I have some bent ons and got a bunch of parts when I bought my 88 but there are some bigger diameter than the originals. Other than that they seem to be the same. I got two bare blocks but one could be from a diesel since it has a different #. It could be these pushrods are from the diesel engine or whatever it is. Anyway do you know of different diameter puhrods and do you think it will hurt to use the larger diameter rods. Thankyou.

Re(1): oliver 88 pushrods

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 05:02:03 PM by Ron

Standard shop practice is that old pushods can be reused only if they go back in exaclty the same position as they came out. In other words, no, you would not want to use pushrods from any other engine. Further, the diameter is not the only difference, the weight is different too. Unless you want to risk rocker arm, follower, and cam lobe damage, buy new ones. I'd also find and fix the cause of the bent pushrods; they do not bend unless there is an interference or geometry problem. Valves seized due to overheating is a very common cause but not the only cause.

Re(2): oliver 88 pushrods

IP: 67.2.242.126 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 06:30:31 PM by Larry Harsin

It will not hurt that they are larger in diameter if they are the same length. They are just a later design. Larry


1550 MightyLift forklift

IP: 207.160.143.18 Posted on June 20, 2005 at 06:09:02 PM by Gary

we have a oliver 1550 forklift and are wanting to do some work on the mast. Does anyone know were to look for parts? Does anyone know the orginal manufacture of the mightylift? Any info would be apprecaited. Thanks

Re(1): 1550 MightyLift forklift

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:50:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any insight on this. You might check with the Museum at Charles City. They may be able to help you. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): 1550 MightyLift forklift

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 23, 2005 at 04:43:18 PM by J. Ulmer

Unless you have bad hard parts (nuts, sleeves, and rods,) you can get your seal and gasket place to put you together packings and wiper and seals out of their inventory as most of that stuff is furnished by vendors to the O.E.M.s by the same guys. Take them the whole cylinder and shaft you need stuff for and they will measure and duplicate all the stuff to seal the cylinder internally and externally and at a lot less cost and effort than tracking down a defunct company who was the original supplier. Clean the stuff up first and keep the parts in sequence and order (i.e. seal, o-ring, felt, wiper order of assembly as well as correct directional placement. I am not a pro so I make a drawing and label everything as I disassemble stuff as to location and spatial orientation so I can reassemble everything correctly. It also helps me not lose or forget something as I reassemble stuff. I use a separate zip lock bag to each cylinder I disassemble and put the cleaned old parts in them with a label to ;match which cylinder it came out of. Some are close and it beats being confused later. Hard wear parts like pins and bushings can be forged with a good friendly machine shop competively with tracking down somethine that doesn't exist any more and has to be build then anyway....you just saved the aggravation of looking for the company that merged, divided, relocated, and then died god knows when or where. Someone might have everything you need in a back room, but finding his can be tough.


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