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"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid-March thru Mid-April, 2004 Archives
88
IP: 4.152.93.101 Posted on April 18, 2004 at 07:20:09 PM by harden phipps
have a 88 that the motor was rebuilt in to a s88. govener has been rebuilt. CANT GET THE GOVENOR TO PULL IN. THROTTLE LINKAGE AND GOV. ROD ARE HOOKED CORRECTLY BY BOOK. HELP? LARRY PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR PH. #. WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS THIS WITH YOU. THANKS, HARDEN PHIPPS
Re(1): 88
IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on April 18, 2004 at 11:31:23 PM by Larry Harsin
Call me at 712-362-2966. Larry
S88 question
IP: 24.211.42.39 Posted on April 18, 2004 at 05:27:46 PM by Alan Holley
Hi Larry. Today I was out discing up a couple fields with my Super 88 diesel and after several hours it started losing power. First time it happened it was pulling pretty hard and almost shut down. I lifted my disc and started back to the truck, but it continued to randomly lose power. When I got to the truck it idled fine. I noticed some water and anti-freeze around the radiator so I checked the water level. It was a little lower than before I started. I shut it off and it made a moaning sound for a minute or so around the radiator/water pump area. I left for some water and came back about an hour later and filled the radiator back up. Back in the field the tractor ran fine under load for a few minutes and then started losing power again. I checked the water again and the level was still good. Any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer. I dont know if this could cause the problem I am experiencing but here goes. A friend of mine fueled the S88 while I was working another field. He got the fuel from a place where I dont trade and it was #2 diesel. I have only used #1 diesel before. Could this cause a problem? Alan Holley
Re(2): S88 question
IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on April 18, 2004 at 11:29:39 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think the different fuel caused the problem. I think you probably have a dirty fuel filter. I would change the primary filter on the right side of the engine (when you are sitting in the seat). If that doesn't improve it, I would change the final filter on the other side of the engine. Also, before you change these filters, check your fuel filters and make sure your screens are not plugged. Larry
Oliver 2150
IP: 12.73.119.229 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 10:49:23 PM by Nick
I have an Oliver 2150 DIesel and I cannot get the Sevro valve to line up. Do you have a diagram or know where i can get one or a book possibley? thanks
Re(1): Oliver 2150
IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 11:11:48 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get an Operator's Manual and a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email Mary Ann at: fiai.net. The Shop Manual is the one you will need. Larry
oliver tractor
IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 09:14:07 PM by glenda
NEED A PTO SHIFTER FORK FOR A 1450 DIESEL.
Re(1): oliver tractor
IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 11:09:24 PM by Larry Harsin
Your 1450 Oliver was built in Italy by Fiat for Oliver. I received your email and have emailed suggestions as to where you can find parts. Larry
Oliver 880 Torque problems
IP: 65.178.168.50 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 11:14:47 PM by mitch
I have a problem with a torque I just put in an Oliver 880. I start out with torque lever pulled towards me it takes off then kind of jumps and rolls to a stop or if it does not jump it stops about 20 feet later and makes rattle noise before it stops. I shift lever away from me tractor takes off fine. If I start out with lever forward tractor runs fine then I shift it back and tractor runs a little ways then stops shift it back forward and tractor takes off. Is there an adjustment for this or did I put torque in wrong?? Any help would be greatly appreciated first time trying to put torque in so take it easy on me thanks for any help.
Re(1): Oliver 880 Torque problems
IP: 67.2.248.23 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 11:51:39 PM by Larry Harsin
Your sprag clutch is not staying engaged onto the transmission input shaft. If the sprag clutch was new when you installed it, there may be an alignment problem with the power booster housing where it bolts up to the transmission housing on the tractor. If the sprag clutch wasn't new, you are going to have to take it apart and replace it. In either case, alignment of that housing is critical to how well this unit works. If there is any wear on the transmission input shaft, where that sprag clutch makes contact, it can cause problems. Also, the surface of the gear where the sprag clutch fits in, has to show no wear (has to be perfect). Larry
Re(2): Oliver 880 Torque problems
IP: 63.184.129.103 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 12:01:07 PM by mitch
Where can you get a new sprag clutch and is it in the housing or not?? another thing what about the gear with slinger i never had the collar that held that on
Re(3): Oliver 880 Torque problems
IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 11:07:07 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like you have an early style which has been replaced with a later style. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl and visit with him about this. 800-320-6224. You need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from Mary Ann at the Museum in Charles City. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net That sprag clutch is in the gear that sets on the transmission input shaft. If you have that gear that has the slinger, it is the early style and it is probably worn where that sprag clutch works. You may find that you don't want to spend what it is going to cost to fix this unit. You may want to remove that unit and have a straight 6 speed transmission like the S88. I have some good used gears for that unit, but you should check with Tom about other parts that you may need. Larry
oliver 60 ROWCROP 1941
IP: 64.68.173.195 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 07:53:43 PM by Shannon Frericks
I have 1941 oliver 60 ROWCROP serial number 605417 There are only 6 registered on yesterday tractors what make this one so rare from the other 30 registered?
Re(1): oliver 60 ROWCROP 1941
IP: 67.2.248.23 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 11:42:51 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't understand what you are asking. In 1940, the serial numbers went from 600,001 - 600,071. In 1941, the serial numbers went from 600,071 - 606,303. The 60 RC is not rare. Larry
on yesterdaytractors.com
IP: 64.68.173.243 Posted on April 17, 2004 at 11:25:18 AM by Shannon Frericks
On yesterdaytractor.com when I registered the serial number they seperated it with the other 6 instead of listing it with the other 30?
Super 55 Seat bushings
IP: 204.32.114.149 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 07:03:35 PM by Keith
Larry, Bought the seat spring and bushings from Korves' at the WGT. Having trouble getting them to fit the original holes. do they need to be drilled to fit? Tried to tap one in with a hammer and it fell apart. do they need to be pressed in? Was good to get a chance to shake you hand at the WGT. Looking forward to Oliver Heritage.
Re(1): Super 55 Seat bushings
IP: 67.2.248.121 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 08:07:20 PM by Larry Harsin
I have not done a seat on a S55. Ask Korves about how to do this. We enjoyed meeting you and many others at the Winter Get-Together. We, too, are looking forward to Sherry's new magazine. Larry
Re(2): Super 55 Seat bushings
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 12:26:41 PM by Larry from MD
I think the bushings are differant sizes,so did you try to put a big one in a small hole?
Oliver 77RC Seat Question
IP: 63.240.135.30 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 02:09:10 PM by Mark
77 Row Crop Seat Question I am hoping someone can help me out with a couple questions. I have purchased 2 new rubber seat springs for my 77RC seat. These seat springs have 2 pins that line up with the seat arms. Are these 2 pins suppose to be inline with the tension adjust "ear"? In my excitement to have a seat with "springs" and not just a steel bar supporting, I apparently did not pay enough attention on how to reasemble, because things are not lining up as expected. Can someone explain this to me or send me a picture to help me out?
Re(1): Oliver 77RC Seat Question
IP: 67.2.248.121 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 08:00:47 PM by Larry Harsin
I think they are to be inline. The adjuster is on the left side of the seat, where you adjust the tension. Those seat rubbers face forward. You should then be able to put the arms on so that they will be in the right position to line up with the pins. I'll try to get a picture of one and email it to you. Larry
Re(3): Oliver 77RC Seat Question
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 12:30:45 PM by Larry from MD
Some of the new rubbers are too hard and the seat needs to be very high to get them on.evan with all my weight on them it still feels like you are standing up.
Re(4): Oliver 77RC Seat Question
IP: 207.177.82.110 Posted on April 16, 2004 at 09:56:46 PM by Mark
Larry H: I have sent you an email with another email address to send the pictures to. Thank you for your help. Larry from MD: Thank you for your response here and on the YTMag page. I will keep that in mind, it is probably part of my problem. I did not expect it to have to sit that high.
Oliver 66 RC Serial # Question
IP: 64.252.47.87 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 10:33:43 AM by Jonathan Sczurek
Hello, I have a 1952 Oliver 66 RC Diesel serial #431200. In front of the serial # there are 4 digits, it appears that it has been double stamped in this area. It originally read 0152-431200 and it was stamped over to read 0230-431200. Have you ever seen this before? What do the first 4 digits mean anyway? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks -Jon
Re(1): Oliver 66 RC Serial # Question
IP: 67.2.248.121 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 07:55:45 PM by Larry Harsin
It could be something about the gear ratio. They could have taken it back in and changed it. Larry
carburetor
IP: 216.176.89.137 Posted on April 12, 2004 at 10:02:05 PM by Steve Coventry
I put a kit in the carburetor and after it sets over night, the carburetor overflows. I went and got anothe needle and seat, because I thought it was leaking. Could I have a pin hole in the casting causeing this?
Re(1): carburetor
IP: 69.179.6.169 Posted on April 12, 2004 at 10:45:39 PM by Ron Wolf
Depends on where it's leaking. If it leaks out the throat, either you have the float level set too high, hole(s) in the float(s) causing them to sink, or there is dirt tapped between the float needle and seat. If the leak is somewhere else, you may have a casting porosity. These can be hard to find but are usually easily fixed with JB Weld.
Re(2): carburetor
IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on April 13, 2004 at 00:47:50 AM by Larry Harsin
I concur. I've had deals like that where I just got a new carb. Larry
Re(3): carburetor
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 14, 2004 at 09:40:30 PM by julmer
Seeing a gas leak can be tough alright. You didn't say whether it was a down or updraft carb, but it's about the same. I have used a plastic line with a stopper (like they use in chemistry Labs with a hole in it) in a jug for a fuel source which I filled with dyed gas(using ATF or red diesel) to watch for color leaking. Put your jug up about 4 feet to give it enough head and (starting with the carb full of clear gas) you might ascertain if its the valve or a defect in the body. Ju
Re(1): carburetor
IP: 209.50.4.222 Posted on April 15, 2004 at 01:06:05 AM by B A Star
You didn't say which carburetor make it is. More than likely a Marvel Schebler, those carbs are pretty bullet proof. Take out the seat again and closely inspect the area where the seat screws into the housing. They get eaten away in this area and gas creeps between the seat and housing. You may have to true up the area where seat screws in. corrected a lot of them this way.
power steering
IP: 66.181.128.26 Posted on April 12, 2004 at 08:45:16 PM by Bob Adamson
I just got a 1950 at auction and the power steering does not work when turning left and works fair when turning right.What should I look for? Thanks, bob
Re(1): power steering
IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on April 13, 2004 at 00:44:12 AM by Larry Harsin
First, test the operating pressure at the flow divider. If you don't have at least 1500 lbs of pressure there, you're steering isn't going to work right. I think there is a 1/4" pipe plug on the flow divider where you can screw a 2000 lb. pressure gauge in there to check it. The next thing I would check would be the linkages and the spindles and make sure they aren't binding. Larry
final drive
IP: 204.32.179.164 Posted on April 11, 2004 at 10:43:13 PM by marvin
I HAVE A 77 ROW CROP THAT HAS DEVELOPED A GRINDING NOISE THAT SEEMS TO BE COMING FROM THE FINAL DRIVE.THIS MAINLY HAPPENS WHEN I TURN SHARPLY.COULD IT BE A BAD CARRIER BEARING? THANK YOU.
Re(1): final drive
IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on April 13, 2004 at 00:38:27 AM by Larry Harsin
I would be more inclined to suspect something in the differential. Otherwise, possibly a bad inner axle bearing. Take the cover off and have a look. First, before taking that cover off, check your brakes and make sure they are o.k. This could save you a lot of work. Larry
trans. cover
IP: 66.168.6.201 Posted on April 10, 2004 at 11:37:43 PM by Chris
Will a trans. cover used to replace a mechanical lift unit after it has been taken out from a Oliver 77 work on a 88?
Re(1): trans. cover
IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on April 11, 2004 at 02:00:09 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. They are the same. Larry
Oliver 70
IP: 141.151.172.247 Posted on April 9, 2004 at 08:14:12 AM by Paul
Larry I have two things wrong with a 1948 70 First the power lift never worked. When I move the lever it jumps up then stops. If I put my foot on it it comes up but slips. I got ahold of a pully put it on and it will not spin. Any ideas? Next I was pulling a hill in 3rd gear. When all of a sudden loud pop sound then loss of power. Started to blow dark smoke. It has sat in the barn for two years i would start in eavery two months to keep it free. Now it will idel but if I put it in gear and let out the clutch out it stalls. And runs like crap. Do you think it is in the head. thanx for any help Paul
Re(1): Oliver 70
IP: 67.2.248.109 Posted on April 9, 2004 at 08:29:18 AM by Larry Harsin
I suspect there is a sheared drive key where the shaft is driven. The shaft that drives the belt pulley is the same that drives the power lift. It is not necessarily in the head. With the engine shut off and the clutch pedal depressed, does the drive shaft from the engine to the transmission turn freely? Could something be binding in the transmission? Your engine not running right could be lots of possibilities. Is your choke control to the carb working properly? Does the ignition furnish good spark? Is there good flow of fuel going into the carb? Does the carb hold fuel without running over? These are just a few thoughts for you to investigate. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 70
IP: 141.151.172.247 Posted on April 9, 2004 at 08:40:10 AM by Paul
Larry I have tried all of those things. I took the carb apart and cleand it. Run choke by hand. And the mag runs on another tractor fine. Could it be a stuck valv?
Re(3): Oliver 70
IP: 69.179.7.86 Posted on April 9, 2004 at 12:08:36 PM by Ron Wolf
The first thing I do is check idle vacuum looking for 18"-19". Next I run a compression test, specs are in the Operator's Manual, most likely something around 150 psi. If it fails, I run a cylinder leakdown test.
1855 Turbo
IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 11:26:19 AM by Chuck
I just noticed I have oil leaking out of the two exhaust manifold ports that are directly below the turbo. Could this be a sign of turbo problems? What options do I have? I have no experience with turbo problems.
Re(1): 1855 Turbo
IP: 67.2.248.109 Posted on April 9, 2004 at 08:20:52 AM by Larry Harsin
That is an indication that it might have seal leakage on the turbo. I think I would remove the exhaust outlet from the front of the turbo and if the turbo is oily in that spot, I would remove it and have it serviced. Larry
oliver hydraulics
IP: 169.207.216.97 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 08:44:27 AM by willy disher
my 1650 oliver 3 point, hic-cups when under a heavy load,when throttled up thesystem holds the load at lower rpms the load slowly lowers, anyone know the cause and apossible fit-it solution
Re(1): oliver hydraulics
IP: 67.2.248.109 Posted on April 9, 2004 at 08:17:57 AM by Larry Harsin
The first thing I would check would be a check ball in the servo valve. An indication of a problem in the check valve is with the engine not running, push the 3 pt. hitch lever forward approx. 1/2 way. If the arms lower, the problem is probably in the check valve. If this isn't what you find, you could have a cracked relief valve elbow on the 3 pt. hitch cylinder. If this does not check out, my next thought would be to replace the "O" rings on the 3 pt. hitch cylinder piston. Larry
1650 oil(?) in Antifreeze
IP: 12.216.74.224 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 06:19:58 AM by C Nigut
Larry, Have 1650 Gas which was running fine but loosing antifreeze. No air bubbles in coolant. Disked several acres, noticed drop in oil pressure. Checked coolant and found oily, white frothy on top. No smoke from exhaust or engine crankcase breather. What do you think? Head gasket? Block crack? Your help please. Thanks.
Re(1): 1650 oil(?) in Antifreeze
IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 07:53:44 AM by Larry Harsin
Somehow compression is getting into the water jacket. Several possibilities here. It could be a bad head gasket, a cracked cylinder head or possibly a cracked or coarse cylinder sleeve. This engine, more than likely, will have to be torn down and inspected. Larry
Re(1): 1650 oil(?) in Antifreeze
IP: 69.179.7.86 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 11:16:40 AM by Ron Wolf
Any loss of coolant requires that the engine be shut down until the problem is identified and fixed. I'm afraid that Larry is right, you are going to have to tear it down. It sounds like it overheated due to coolant loss, warped the head, and tore the head gasket. Even worse, the missing coolant is likely in the crankcase where it will quickly destroy the bearings. Might be a good time for a complete rebuild.
1650 gas problem
IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on April 7, 2004 at 09:46:40 AM by Carl
I'm working on a 1650 gas. This tractor was completely overhauled just a couple of years ago. Compression is real good on all cylinders, so I don't think this is an engine problem. The distrbutor plate was bad, we couldn't keep the points in adjustment, so I bought an electronic ignition kit. I regapped the plugs according to the kit recommendation. The tractor starts right up, but runs poorly, backfires, etc. (it did the same thing before we put the electronic ignition kit in). I checked the timing and its OK, right where it should be. I think the carburetor may be the problem. I checked the gas and have a full flow to the carburetor. Someone told me that the vacuum advance on the distributor could be bad also. Have you ever heard this? Any advice appreciated.
Re(1): 1650 gas problem
IP: 69.179.7.86 Posted on April 7, 2004 at 01:09:46 PM by Ron Wolf
The Pertronix electronic ignition kit does not replace the plate, therefore, if it's worn you must replace the distributor if it's a Holley or rebuild it if it's a Delco. It's also very likely that the diaphragm in the vacuum advance unit is leaking. Easy to tell. Replace the vacuum fitting at the intake manifold with a pipe plug. If the engine runs well, you not only found the problem, you fixed it. You do not the need vacuum advance.
Re(2): 1650 gas problem
IP: 64.33.201.229 Posted on April 7, 2004 at 10:24:25 PM by Carl
Thanks Ron-I'll try putting a plug in place of the line.
Re(3): 1650 gas problem
IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 00:02:09 AM by Larry Harsin
Good advice. I would also reccommend the plug. Larry
1800?
IP: 170.215.14.160 Posted on April 5, 2004 at 09:29:15 PM by Jay
I have a 1800 oliver but I dont know WHAT 1800? The serial # 148007-844 & THE MODEL # 32-2241 and where can get a repair manual. Im new with a oliver. Oh by the way its diesel. Thanks for any help!
Re(1): 1800?
IP: 67.2.248.197 Posted on April 6, 2004 at 00:18:41 AM by Larry Harsin
The serial number tells us that it is a late 1800 built in 1964 and would be a C series, one of the last ones. You can get a Shop Manual and an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
generator voltage output
IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on April 5, 2004 at 04:29:20 PM by polk crawler
Larry: What would be the voltage output of a 2 brush generator on an old OC3.? Ammeter shows nothing, reading at battey with engine running about 6.3 V..generator not putting out anything?
Re(1): generator voltage output
IP: 67.2.248.197 Posted on April 6, 2004 at 00:11:58 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have any of the specs for that OC3 generator. Check with Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net. Larry
Re(1): generator voltage output
IP: 69.179.7.86 Posted on April 6, 2004 at 06:35:29 AM by Ron Wolf
You're right. A fully charged 6V battery puts out 6.3V. A 6V generator must supply 7.1V to charge the battery. If you apply a load to the battery and rev the engine and still get only 6.3V at the generator terminals, then yes, the generator isn't working.
Re(2): generator voltage output
IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on April 6, 2004 at 10:22:24 AM by polk crawler
Thanks for the confirmation, Ron. One more problem to resolve on the old OC3. Otherwise it is working fine. PC
770 hydraulics
IP: 64.24.241.39 Posted on April 4, 2004 at 07:48:29 PM by mike un ohio
Hi Larry-- I want to install a remote valve on my 770 to operate my fence post driver. I have been using it on my 1855 by plugging into the remote outlets and pushing that handle forward giving me a good flow of oil thru the valve. If I remove the 1/2 inch pipe plug on the 770 and install the 3/8 plug I assume I will have to leave the remote valve connected all the time so as not to crack the pump. Is that right? Will the existing Oliver valves still work after the conversion? Many thanks!!
Re(1): 770 hydraulics
IP: 67.2.242.46 Posted on April 5, 2004 at 07:38:12 AM by Larry Harsin
That is correct. The existing Oliver valves will continue to work as long as you maintain that circuit through the remote valve that you have installed. Larry
Re(2): 770 hydraulics
IP: 64.24.241.42 Posted on April 5, 2004 at 10:13:37 PM by mike in ohio
Another thought came to mind. Can I hook this valve up to the existing remote outlet and hold the tractor valve open with something like a tarp strap up to the steering wheel? I will probably need to back out the restrictor swivel to get full flow??? Will this work or will I just cause the unit to overheat by running thru the tractor valve constantly? Thanks again!!
Re(3): 770 hydraulics
IP: 67.2.248.197 Posted on April 6, 2004 at 00:06:04 AM by Larry Harsin
I have done it that way. Yes, you will need to back out the restrictor swivel. It worked on my tractor with a post driver. You will just have to try it and see how it works. Larry
oliver tractor problem
IP: 169.207.217.93 Posted on April 3, 2004 at 06:25:39 PM by willy disher
I have a 1650 gas oliver, when engine is cold, the tractor runs great, after about 10 minutes, the engine developes a loss of power and misses, after a short while of shifting to a lower gear the engine regains power, upon shifting to a higher gear, loses power again.
Re(1): oliver tractor problem
IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on April 3, 2004 at 08:38:54 PM by Larry Harsin
I would say something is causing it to have weak spark. It could be something in the wiring harness, or a bad coil. Possibly bad ignition points. If it checks out on the ignition side, maybe it isn't getting enough fuel. Have you checked the sediment bulb in the tank? Make sure it doesn't have an obstruction in the neck. Larry
Re(1): oliver tractor problem
IP: 69.179.6.253 Posted on April 4, 2004 at 08:01:05 AM by Ron Wolf
I've seen three things cause this: 1) Next time it happens, remove the gas cap. If this fixes it then the cap's vent is clogged and must be cleaned or the cap replaced with the correct vented cap. 2) If it's not the gas cap, a failing ignition coil can do this. Next time it happens, pour lots of cool water on the coil and see if that fixes it. If you end up buying a coil, there are two types made, they look the same, be sure to get the right one 3) A vacuum leak will cause this and it's usually a leaky diaphragm in the distributor. If you have the Holley distributor it can't be fixed that I know of so you can just disconnect the vacuum line and plug the hole in the intake manifold with a small pipe plug.
Re(2): oliver tractor problem
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on April 4, 2004 at 11:07:27 AM by j ulmer
They are steering you right. If it is fuel starving as larry suggested via obstruction or vacuum buildup as ron suggested, look closely for any other restriction which could have been added. I had a gas IH loader with a screen in the fuel connection at the carb which had "grown closed" and their weren't enough openings to let the bowl stay full of fuel. When using more it would gradually get empty resulting in the out of gas miss and when in the lower gear it fills it back up. Don't ever blow through a fuel line toward the carb with the line hooked up though to try and clean it or you can collasp the floats (if metall) and sink them resulting in flooding.
Re(1): oliver tractor problem
IP: 68.251.116.246 Posted on April 5, 2004 at 05:09:38 PM by 90%ret'd
Above posters have good advice, another cause could be spark plugs. If you curently have extended tip plugs in the engine, try the same heat range plug in the non extended (porcelain recessed)type. Had this years ago when used for light work extended tip plugs would lead foul, engine would act as you described, look for tiny glass like beads on the porcelain of the plug when you inspect them.
Rr main oil seal install.
IP: 4.238.67.8 Posted on April 2, 2004 at 09:25:54 AM by Tom Rowe_drake
Hi larry, I just failed at installing a "new" Rr seal on my 660 R/C diesel . It separated from the metal as it was going over crank . Now, I soaked it in oil the night before and when I looked at it closely there was no oil inside the cork. Could I have gotten a old stock seal? How about making a little bevelled inside edge so that the cork will "ramp up" onto the crank ? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks,Tom
Re(1): Rr main oil seal install.
IP: 67.2.249.58 Posted on April 2, 2004 at 10:45:17 PM by Larry Harsin
You have to use your judgement. Those seals have to be able to slide freely on the crank. Otherwise, they will not push up against the seal retainer to form the seal. I know what you are talking about. You just have to work with it . Larry
Re(1): Rr main oil seal install.
IP: 209.50.4.219 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 00:28:35 AM by B A Star
Best thing to do is to convert it to a lip seal. Later engines from the late 60's had lip seales in a cast housing. Go to a salvage yard and get the cast rear seal housing from one of the later engines. Buy the seal part #168 149-A. A good bearing house will be able to supply the seal. I changed both ends of my 660 to lip seals.
1650
IP: 155.91.6.72 Posted on April 2, 2004 at 07:09:21 AM by Parker Mathers
Larry, I run a nine foot haybine on my 1650. When I lower the haybine and cut, the haybine starts lifting slowly until eventually it is about 12 inches off the ground. Is this a tractor hydraulic problem or is there something set wrong on the new idea 509 haybine. Thanks for any info.
Re(1): 1650
IP: 67.2.249.50 Posted on April 2, 2004 at 08:09:23 AM by Larry Harsin
Read your Operator's Manual for the tractor and it will explain this procedure. You will have to back out the screw (1/2 inch cap screw with a 3/4 inch head) that is by your right heel when you are sitting in the seat. Back it out 3 turns. Backing this screw out will deactivate the 3 pt. hitch arms, so you may have to either tie them up or remove them, or they will get into your haybine or the PTO. Larry
Re(2): 1650
IP: 209.50.4.219 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 00:37:51 AM by B A Star
Larry's suggestion will help, however, if you are operating in uneven ground, it will not solve your problem. The tractor's hydraulic system was designed with a interlock system which works fine with a two way cylinder. With a one way cylinder if the cutter bar goes over a high place in your field, it pulls the cylinder apart which creates a low pressure area at the base of the cylinder and oil flows in between the interlock ball and seat (all four outlets have a ball and seat). Now when the cutter bar attempts to lower, he ball is seated and it holds up your cutter bar. Nothing wrong mechanically, it's just the way it was designed
Re(3): 1650
IP: 155.91.6.72 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 04:52:18 PM by Parker Mathers
Thanks, Larry and BA, That makes sence. It seems to happen more on uneven ground. Thanks both for sharing your knowledge!!
550 SEAT
IP: 207.144.98.43 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 08:06:59 PM by J. Mash
I was wondering if you or anyone knows if a factory seat cushion and cover replica is made by anyone for a 550 pan seat? The tie on covers are not as comfortable. Thanks.
Re(1): 550 SEAT
IP: 67.2.249.191 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 08:29:14 PM by Larry Harsin
The tie on covers are the only ones that I know about. Larry
old walking plow
IP: 216.248.100.138 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 01:51:20 PM by Gary Junkins
Hi Larry just wondering if you have knowledge on the right paint colors to paint the handles and plow part? I have a friend that bought one in KY and wants to put it by drive way. It has new oak handles and the metal part seems to be in really good shape. any advise would be appreicated. Thank you. Gary
Re(1): old walking plow
IP: 67.2.249.191 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 08:27:27 PM by Larry Harsin
I really don't know. I'm assuming you are talking about an Oliver. A lot of the implements were red. Check with Sherry Schaefer at www.oliverinformation.com. Possibly she will know. Larry
88/Super Diesels
IP: 205.188.116.14 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 06:52:02 AM by Bill Brandt
Larry: Do you know the factory ratio for the rocker arms on an 88 diesel and a Super 88 diesel? In the event you don't know (which I find hard to believe) do you know where I could find that information?
Re(1): 88/Super Diesels
IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 07:34:23 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't understand what you mean by "factory ratio". Larry
Re(2): 88/Super Diesels
IP: 69.179.36.123 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 10:02:44 AM by Ron Wolf
The Service Manual has cam lift and valve lift specs. You divide the valve lift by the cam lift to get the "factory ratio". You'll get a number like 1.4 or so which means the rocker arm has a 1.4:1 ratio. It may be different for the intake and exhaust valves.
Re(3): 88/Super Diesels
IP: 152.163.252.71 Posted on April 2, 2004 at 06:44:44 AM by Bill Brandt
Larry: The info we need is what Ron posted. We will get a service manual and check it out. Thanks.
550 DIESEL
IP: 206.74.35.139 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 07:34:09 PM by J. Mash
Under regular oil and filter changes how many hours will a 550 diesel go before needing a overhaul? What fails first compression or bearings?
Re(1): 550 DIESEL
IP: 67.2.248.175 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 08:39:20 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know, but I'd guess 6000 - 7000 hrs. - maybe longer. Probably compression will fail first, but I can't really say. It depends on the tractor and how it is being used. Larry
1900 Std vs. R/C
IP: 68.47.32.35 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 05:18:04 PM by David H
Is there a difference in length between the rear axle housings on a 1900 R/C, Wheat, or Std? Is the only difference the axles? Thanks, David
Re(1): 1900 Std vs. R/C
IP: 67.2.242.58 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 07:38:58 AM by Larry Harsin
The 1900 was never produced as a Row Crop. It was built only in the Wheatland and Standard versions. As far as I know, the axles are all the same on the 1900's. Larry
super 77 diesel
IP: 66.35.139.202 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 04:58:27 PM by Brian Rotz
I recently purchased this tractor and have used a few times and seems to run fine. Question-with 7,465 hrs on this machine is there something I should look for in particular as far as peroblems. Is this a lot of hours even for a diesel. has 3 point hitch and hydrualics are external tank etc. as far as transmission, what type oil goes in it ?
Re(1): super 77 diesel
IP: 67.2.242.58 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 07:36:29 AM by Larry Harsin
7,465 hrs is not a lot of hrs. if the tractor has been maintained properly. I would just use it with good judgement on how to care for it. If the engine oil pressures seem to be low, I would consider pulling the oil pan and checking the condition of the engine bearings. The transmission uses 80 - 90 transmission oil. Larry
Re(2): super 77 diesel
IP: 66.35.139.202 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 02:49:09 PM by Brian Rotz
Thanks Larry, No the oil pressure is perfect I think, when running wide open it's at the top and in middle to upper part of work range when idling ??
Re(3): super 77 diesel
IP: 67.2.249.50 Posted on April 2, 2004 at 08:11:45 AM by Larry Harsin
That's pretty good. Larry
1755 hydraulic problem
IP: 65.130.113.133 Posted on March 28, 2004 at 07:49:58 PM by mike
i have a 1755 that the hydraulics seem to be lost for about 8 seconds or so ,then immediately return. it seems like it is sucking air or possibly starving for oil. filters and oil level and pressure are all good. problem occurs intermittenly with no time table. however, it seems like when you turn steering hard one way or the other it triggers this problem but occasionally it happens without turning the steering wheel. any help would be appreciated
Re(1): 1755 hydraulic problem
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 12:38:46 PM by Larry from MD
It sounds like a sticking compensator valve,But the same thing will happen if you are sucking air.I had a leaking cylinder on a disk.Only the nonpreasure side had a small leak.The open center tractors were fine useing it,but it caused havock on the closed center tractor.Useing the tractor on a 3point chisle it was ok but on the disk acted like yours.
Re(2): 1755 hydraulic problem
IP: 65.130.112.137 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 07:41:36 PM by mike
thanks for advice on problem.where is this compensator valve located. also faled to inform it will do this hooked to nothing. when it idles it has a pump noise at times. when it makes noise it seems like it looses hydraulic presure then imediatly returns. other times it acts fine. thanks for time.use tractor a good bit,only thing keeping it from being in a-1 condition.local dealer has fewer ideas about problem then i do
Re(3): 1755 hydraulic problem
IP: 67.2.242.58 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 07:29:37 AM by Larry Harsin
If this tractor has the little pump up at the front of the engine to move the oil through the cooler, it could be getting air because of a worn bushing on this little pump. This is just a thought. Also, check all hose clamps on the suction side of the main hydraulic pump. Larry
super 88
IP: 66.84.232.167 Posted on March 28, 2004 at 12:49:39 PM by Brian
Larry I have a supper 88 row crop. Its new to me and I am wondering what kind of oil goes in the rear end and hydraulic system. I think it has the hydra-lectric lift system and when I go to fill that system it runs right in to the axle. I was also wondering how much oil is needed. Thank you for your time
Re(1): super 88
IP: 64.91.75.137 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 07:14:18 AM by Ron Wolf
You'll need a Service Manual to repair the leak, most likely a seal, between the pump and final drive. The Operator's Manual will answer your other questions.
Re(1): super 88
IP: 66.84.232.137 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 09:21:16 PM by brian
Can someone tell me which way the two seals go on the hydraulic pump. I thing the two lips face away from each other am i right
Re(2): super 88
IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on April 8, 2004 at 08:07:37 AM by Larry Harsin
The hydraulic is 10 - 20 wt. non-foaming hydraulic oil. The transmission and rear end uses 80 - 90 transmission oil. The hydraulic holds approx. 5 - 6 qts. The transmission and differential holds approx. 4.5 gal. On the installation of seals and the pump housing, new pumps are assembled with the lip toward the gear on the first seal. The second or outer seal on each side was installed just the opposite. However, on pumps that are worn where the seals run, I put both seals with the lips toward the gear on both sides of the pump. On your pump, when you take it apart, check to be sure there is not a crack in the center plate. Larry
Oliver 88 engine remove
IP: 161.184.63.44 Posted on March 27, 2004 at 11:29:31 PM by David Wells
Larry: Thanks for your advise. I am trying to pull the engine from my 88. A couple of questions have come up. 1) Not having the factory lifing tool, where it is best to attach to the engine to lift it, or should I just put chains around it. 2) The manual says to pull the PTO, but it looks like there is a spline coupling just behind the clutch, can I just undo this and pull the engine forward? Thanks David
Re(1): Oliver 88 engine remove
IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on March 28, 2004 at 07:54:48 AM by Larry Harsin
1. Put a chain on the head bolt that is toward the middle of the engine. I would build a tool with a nut to screw on that head bolt so you can hook a chain through it. 2. That spline coupling has to be disconnected. You have to pull the PTO. Just follow the instructions in your manual and you will do it right. Larry
Final Drive Casting for OC-3
IP: 63.229.26.31 Posted on March 27, 2004 at 07:41:40 PM by Bill Guise
Final Drive Casting for OC-3 needed Recently acquired a OC-3 and have been working from the top down. Everything is now in good shape, it has been field tested, however in checking the final drive oil, I discovered the casting was broken off at the filler level. Am on the hunt for a replacement casting, would like to find one out west-WA, OR, BC, ID, but dearly need and right now I have no options. Even a broken one with the bottom on it would be an option as mine could be welded with the new part. Any ideas appreciated.
Re(1): Final Drive Casting for OC-3
IP: 67.2.249.18 Posted on March 27, 2004 at 10:51:25 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Bechthold Tractor Service in Lodi CA. 209-368-2031 or email: trim-n-prun@softcom.net. If they can't help you, the best place to go is Zimmerman Cletrac in Ephrata PA 717-738-2573 email: zoc@att.net. Larry Re(2): Final Drive Casting for OC-3
IP: 63.229.26.31 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 10:28:32 AM by Bill Guise
Thanks Larry, will follow up today. Appreciate your time and effort on my behalf. Bill
60 Rowcrop
IP: 68.97.193.233 Posted on March 27, 2004 at 12:48:29 PM by Mark
My steering housing is leaking on my 60 Rowcrop. I can't locate the two felt seals that go on the steering worm shaft (part # H-752). Any suggestions? I put 80-90 gear oil in the housing. Do I need heavier? Someone told me if I can't find the felt seals, fill it with auto grease instead. Is this an option? Thank's for your help?
Re(1): 60 Rowcrop
IP: 67.2.249.18 Posted on March 27, 2004 at 10:46:29 PM by Larry Harsin
If you can't find those felts, use John Deere Corn Head grease. It works fine. 80 - 90 is not heavy enough. Chances are you are putting too much grease in the gear box. You could probably make these seals out of felt. Larry
Re(2): 60 Rowcrop
IP: 158.247.216.47 Posted on April 1, 2004 at 06:32:22 PM by Geoffrey
I had Lubbock Gasket in Lubbock, TX make new felts for me. They made any felt or cork seal I needed for my 60. Their phone number is (800) 527-2064. They seemed very reasonable on the prices.
1655 front tires
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 06:41:24 PM by karl
Larry, I am having problems with the front tires not rotating over mud/hay/etc during the spring thaw. Would changing tires from 9.5l-15 to 10-16 create any problems? I am looking for more flotation for the loader bucket. Is it correct that taller and wider tires would help more than just wider tires like a 11L implement tire? Would you suggest changing front tires or are 9.5l 15 as good as it is going to get?
Re(1): 1655 front tires
IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 09:51:50 PM by Larry Harsin
I wouldn't go wider. If I were to change, I would probably go taller. That might help a little. I don't like the 11L 15 when using a loader, because it is too hard on the tie rods and tie rod ends. Larry
Re(2): 1655 front tires
IP: 64.91.40.138 Posted on March 27, 2004 at 07:30:01 AM by Ron Wolf
I swapped out the 3 rib tractor tires for 4 rib implement tires and solved this exact same problem.
Re(2): 1655 front tires
IP: 24.187.69.249 Posted on March 28, 2004 at 03:50:27 PM by Hal
Wasn't there sometimes problems with big tires/rims being hard on spindles, sometimes breaking them when bouncing in/out of ruts. or was this not on 1655?
Re(3): 1655 front tires
IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 03:27:47 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. The wider they are the rougher they are on spindles and tie rods. Larry
Re(4): 1655 front tires
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 03:50:27 PM by karl
I looked closer my 1655 and wonder if there will be enough clearance between the tie rod end and a 10.0 x 16 tire and rim. It looks like about 1 inch of clearance now with a 9.5lx15 tire and rim. I don't want to but a new tires and rims just to find out they don't fit or rub.
Re(5): 1655 front tires
IP: 67.2.242.58 Posted on March 30, 2004 at 07:42:46 AM by Larry Harsin
That is the problem. That 9.5l is a good size for that tractor. I wouldn't go wider than that. Larry
Oliver OC4 differential
IP: 142.32.208.231 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:28:13 PM by Haedan Turner
Trying to find a supplier for a crown and pinion for a OC4 differential.
Re(1): Oliver OC4 differential
IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 09:47:51 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Landis Zimmerman. He has Sales and Service. 717-738-2573 email: zoc@att.net. Larry
88 Decal Colors
IP: 67.24.238.107 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 07:43:34 PM by Ken Schmidt
I have a 1950 Oliver 88 row crop gas. What is the right color for the side panel decal.
Re(1): 88 Decal Colors
IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:10:49 AM by Larry Harsin
The early ones used red numbers. The later ones used the yellow numbers. To be sure you get the correct ones, check with Lyle Dumont at: oliver@lisco.com. Larry
99
IP: 161.184.192.176 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 06:23:47 PM by Gil
Larry, How rare is a 99 gas tractor, and was there a six cylinder gas, in the 99, as well as the four cyl. gas.
Re(1): 99
IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:14:40 AM by Larry Harsin
The 99 is not a rare tractor. The 99 gas was a 4 cylinder until 1953. Then they changed to a 6 cylinder engine. From 1953 on, the 6 cylinder gas is not very plentiful. Most of those were diesel. If one was to be considered rare, I would say the 6 cylinder gas might be on the rare side. Larry
Oliver 880 weight
IP: 24.15.161.152 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 02:41:42 PM by Andy Peffers
I need to determine the weight of a 1958 Oliver 880 Diesel. I'm buying it an auction and I need to trailer it home.
Re(1): Oliver 880 weight
IP: 64.91.40.13 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 03:09:54 PM by Ron Wolf
5,631 lb. Enjoy your nice tractor!
Re(2): Oliver 880 weight
IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:17:53 AM by Larry Harsin
The 5631 lbs. is the shipping weight of the tractor. If there is fluid in the tires or weights, of course, that would make it heavier. Larry
Re(3): Oliver 880 weight
IP: 24.15.161.152 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 05:37:48 PM by Andy Peffers
Ron and Larry, Thanks for the information. I will have to add the weight of the fluid in the tires. The reason I'm wondering about the weight is to determine the size of the trailer. I need to buy a new trailer. I will probably look for one that can handle 8 to 10,000 lbs. I wouldn't want to under size it.
Re(4): Oliver 880 weight
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 05:31:20 AM by j ulmer
Don't forget to add the weight of any implements (i.e. blade or shredder you might be trailering on the tractor. That can also effect the length of your needed trailer as to the balance particularly with a bumper pull trailer. To keep your tongue weight and not be tail heavy (which can make for dangerous towing) be sure the length is enough to keep the machines center of balance in front of the centerline of your axles common centerline.
Re(5): Oliver 880 weight
IP: 24.15.161.152 Posted on April 11, 2004 at 08:58:14 PM by Andy Peffers
I barrowed a 10,000 lbs trailer. I brought it home with me after the auction. It trailered great. My wife's uncle bought this Oliver tractor new in 1958. Now we can look forward to many years of owning it. I guess now we need a small farm or a few acres. Thanks for the infomation.
1800b hydraulics
IP: 208.203.4.140 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 01:28:58 PM by Curt
My hydraulics are very slow but do work. Is this something common with this model tractor?
Re(1): 1800b hydraulics
IP: 64.91.40.13 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 03:14:58 PM by Ron Wolf
The first thing to do is to replace the filter and fluid as a low fluid level, dirty filter, and water in the fluid are the most common causes. If that doesn't do it, check to see that all the hydraulic valves, bypass and others, are set per the Operator's Manual. Last resort is to go through the diagnostic procedure in the Service Manual and don't be surprised if you find the pump is bad.
Re(2): 1800b hydraulics
IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:23:04 AM by Larry Harsin
Not necessarily. I would suggest that you check the operating pressure at the outlets for the remote cylinders. With the engine at 2/3 throttle, the system should develop 1750 lbs. of pressure. If the pressure is good, you are probably getting all the flow you should have. If the pressure is below 1400 lbs. you may have to repair or replace your hydraulic pump. Normally, if we tear into these units, we just replace the pump, as it is an involved process. Larry
Re(3): 1800b hydraulics
IP: 208.203.4.140 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:54:38 PM by Curt
I imagine it is also an expensive process. Thanks for the information.
1655 exhaust smoke
IP: 66.163.147.182 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 11:45:29 PM by karl
My 1655 oliver diesel was used as a loader tracotr all winter. I noticed some black oil/unburntfuel? driping from the muffler. Tractor runs fine, starts okay. Today I was pulling a loaded wagon through mud and the exhaust smoked alot of white. Tractor didn't seem to lose power but I am worried that a bigger problem is about to happen. I am burning a mixture of #1 and #2 diesel fuels left over from winter. Is alot of smoke common for a 1655 under a load? Do I have an injector or pump going bad? or is this early signs of overhaul needed. how do I tell? The hourmeter(original says the guy who bought it new and sold it to me 29 years later) shows 2700 hours. I suspect it's only 2700 hours and not 12700 but is there a way to tell? Could the problem be something else?
Re(1): 1655 exhaust smoke
IP: 64.91.40.13 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 06:47:53 AM by Ron Wolf
A little white smoke when you first start a diesel cold is normal. But if it persists after 1-2 minutes or so, that's because there's not enough heat in the engine and it's pushing unburned fuel out the exhaust, hence the fuel smell. Common causes are a bad injector pump, wrong pump timing, or running without a thermostat. If the exhaust smells like coolant however, that's a whole different problem.
Re(2): 1655 exhaust smoke
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 10:32:10 AM by karl
The engine thermostat appears to be okay since the thermeter runs nicely in the black - looks like the orignal thermeter gauge. the exhaust doesn't smell of coolant. I do notice some oil/fuel? around the injector lines near the pump.
Re(3): 1655 exhaust smoke
IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 01:29:02 AM by Larry Harsin
I concur with Ron's answer. I think the best thing to do with your engine is to put it under load. Winter time chore operation makes it hard for an engine to stay cleaned up. Just tighten up some of the fittings etc. I would just go ahead and use it and it will probably be o.k. Larry
parts help oliver 1255 4wd
IP: 208.134.206.50 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 11:32:28 PM by mark brixen
does anybody know were i can find the front end gear cluster for a oliver 1255 4wd thanks mark
Re(1): parts help oliver 1255 4wd
IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 11:43:17 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Harold Wolfe in Whitesburg TN 423-581-5557 or this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Good Luck. Larry
Oliver 1850 PTO
IP: 24.231.215.161 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 10:17:21 PM by Andrew
Hello the other day I had my tractor on a feed grinder and the pto started slowing down when i put corn into the grinder. i figured the lever wasn't out all the way and i took and tied the lever out farther, because initially what i thought was happening was the clutches were slipping. after about 5 minutes of the lever being far beyond where it was supposed to something snapped in the rear end and the lever went all the way forward. does anybody know how big of a deal this would be to fix or what it is? thanks a lot great message board.
Re(1): Oliver 1850 PTO
IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 11:40:07 PM by Larry Harsin
You probably broke the throw out bearing. It is a brass collar in there and you probably broke it. You will probably have to remove the long PTO drive shaft that goes up to the engine. Then unbolt and remove the PTO unit from the tractor. Then you will be able to see what is broken. Also, while you have it apart, check for warped plates in your PTO clutch. If they are warped, you will have to replace them. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1850 PTO
IP: 24.231.215.161 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 00:05:41 AM by Andrew
thanks larry i will give that a shot
Oliver 88 engine
IP: 161.184.19.184 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 04:41:36 PM by David Wells
Larry: a couple of years ago I wrote to you about my 88. It was running nicely, made a ting sound, stopped and has not run since. I bought a 770, but would like to get the 88 running. I can not turn the engine over at all. I am going to pull the engine, is there anything that I should look for, in particular. Can you give me a ballpark what this engine weighs? Are there any other Oliver engines that fit in the 88? Thanks David
Re(1): Oliver 88 engine
IP: 64.91.41.195 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 06:24:53 PM by Ron Wolf
I'd pull the pan first. Any damage will be obvious, like a bent/broke rod or crank.
Re(2): Oliver 88 engine
IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 11:34:50 PM by Larry Harsin
That engine weighs approx. 600 lbs, I would guess. A 1650 engine will fit rignt in there. The first thing I would do is pull the oil pan and check for a siezed bearing. Larry
Re(3): Oliver 88 engine
IP: 161.184.21.244 Posted on March 26, 2004 at 00:11:14 AM by David Wells
Thanks, Now that the snow is down a bit, I will dig into her. David
What cab will fit my tractor ??
IP: 64.223.93.86 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 09:46:14 AM by Wayne
What cab will fit on a 1855 with the full size fender fuel tanks ?? I like the looks of the Narrow Row Cab. Right now I have a lead on a really nice Hinson Cab. I know there are several makes out there, but most require the fenders to be removed.
Re(1): What cab will fit my tractor ??
IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on March 24, 2004 at 11:30:57 PM by Larry Harsin
You can't have fenders on with your cab if you have narrow rows. If you plant wide row, you can get the fender spacing to have a cab between them. I don't know what brand to suggest. The above info may give you something to think about. Larry
Re(2): What cab will fit my tractor ??
IP: 64.223.108.126 Posted on March 25, 2004 at 09:08:34 AM by Wayne
Thanks Larry, I only use the the tractor for field prep work, plowing and harrows, and once in awhile I will bale with it. I saw the cab that Shep Va put on his 1655 and liked the looks of it.
880 TRACTOR
IP: 12.22.148.66 Posted on March 22, 2004 at 01:11:02 PM by RICK JAMES
ATTN LARRY I WAS ABLE TO TEAR DOWN THE 880.FOUND THE NUMBER 1 ROCKER ARM WAS BROKE.WE HAVE INSTALLED THE NEW ONE,SET THE VALVE,NOTICED WHILE RUNNING WITHOUT THE VALVE COVER ON NO OIL SPLATTER.I NOTICED THE LINES IN BACK OF THE SHAFT DOES.IT STILL SOUNDS LIKE OIL IS NOT COMING UP IN THE ROCKERS AFTER I PUT THE COVER BACK ON.RUNNING 30PSI ON GAUGE.DOES THEM LINES PLUG UP THANKS RICK
Re(1): 880 TRACTOR
IP: 67.2.248.120 Posted on March 23, 2004 at 07:22:16 AM by Larry Harsin
I've encountered that. Just use compressed air and blow back through the oil stud in the line, then try it. That should do it. Larry
1800 Questions
IP: 199.199.181.3 Posted on March 22, 2004 at 07:42:06 AM by Ryan
Well, actually its only 2 questions, about an 1800.(grin) OK my first question is: The PTO seal is leaking and needs to be replaced. The tractor is a wheatland, so I don't know if the PTO setup is the same as a row crop or not, but the seal appears to be at the very outside edge of the housing, can I just pop it out and put in a new one, or is there something that holds it in? Also, should I be able to see the seal like that, or is there supposed to be something in front of it? Question 2: I also need to replace the fuel gauge sending unit, do I just put in the new one and it wll work, or do I have to calibrate it or something? Thanks- Ryan
Re(1): 1800 Questions
IP: 64.91.73.63 Posted on March 22, 2004 at 11:16:32 AM by Ron Wolf
1) See the service manual but yes the seal just pops out. 2) No calibration required. Just curious, did you test the old one? Sometimes it's just a bad connection that makes it seem like the sending unit is bad.
Re(2): 1800 Questions
IP: 199.199.181.48 Posted on March 22, 2004 at 09:05:24 PM by Ryan
Thanks for the help Ron, and yes, I did test old one. Ryan
Re(3): 1800 Questions
IP: 67.2.248.120 Posted on March 23, 2004 at 07:10:15 AM by Larry Harsin
The seal is replaceable simply by removing the end cap. 2. The sending unit in the fuel tank is preset as far as the unit itself, but the one you get is probably a universal, so you will have to set it up so that the dimensions are the same as the original sending unit. The ones I get from AGCO, usually have an instruction sheet in them. Larry
hp
IP: 170.215.119.51 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 01:31:01 PM by Bob Pace
What is the hp for an Oliver 1250?
Re(1): hp
IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 11:30:27 PM by Larry Harsin
The 1250 has 35 HP. Larry
1655 front end leaks
IP: 64.33.200.83 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 10:31:47 AM by Carl
Hi Larry, I had posted a couple of months ago about fixing front end leaks on my 1655. I finally got around to starting on this project. I have the radiator off and now I need to remove that cover for the front gear housing. There are two capscrews and a small hex nut in the center to remove. The problem is I can't find an allen head wrench to fit that small hex screw. I have a complete set of both standard and metric. It seems like its between a 5/32" and a 3/16". Metric doesn't fit either. Must be some weird size I don't have. Do you remember what size it takes?
Re(1): 1655 front end leaks
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 03:24:07 PM by Larry from MD
Theres no need to remove the the small screw.The 2 cap screws hold it on.There is an oring seal and the cap can be tight if its never been removed.
Re(2): 1655 front end leaks
IP: 64.33.200.83 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 09:47:02 PM by Carl
Larry from MD. Thanks for the help. I'm going to tackle this project first thing in the morning. Sounds like you've done this before. From what you're saying I will probably have to pry quite hard to get the cap off. I live way up north in Wisconsin. We still have about 2 1/2 feet of snow on the ground. I have to feed round bales to the cows tommorrow. Its getting to be real challenge as their is lots of mud under the snow. Fortunately, I have several tractors (my wife says too many) for back up while working on the Oliver.
Re(3): 1655 front end leaks
IP: 67.2.249.105 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 11:28:44 PM by Larry Harsin
If you can't get that plug out, go ahead and undo the bolts and get the cap off of there. It will be more difficult to pry that cap up because of suction. All of the ones that I have done, the hex nut worked with my regular Allen wrenches. Larry Re(4): 1655 front end leaks
IP: 64.33.201.229 Posted on March 21, 2004 at 04:56:19 PM by Carl
Both Larry's I got the cap off and the big plug out by prying with a couple of screw drivers. I loosened the bolt with a 1 1/8" socket. The I & T shop manual refers to it as a "puller bolt". Apparently there is some sort of snap ring that holds this bolt in. If I remove that snap ring it appears as though I could just pull the pinion out. The quad ring appears to be on the bottom of the pinion. Is this correct? It does not appear that anything else would need to be replaced according to how it looks in the I & T shop manual.
Re(5): 1655 front end leaks
IP: 67.2.248.141 Posted on March 22, 2004 at 00:30:23 AM by Larry Harsin
No, that is not correct. Do not remove that snap ring to take the puller bolt out. Simply unscrew the puller bolt until it comes out of the threads in the pitman shaft, then simply lift the pinion with the puller bolt in it, out in one piece. Then you will be able to replace that quad ring in the bottom of the housing. The puller bolt is not intended to be separated from the sector after it was assembled at the factory. Also, take note of the timing marks on the sector gear, in relation to the steering piston, and reassemble it as it was originally. Larry
Parts help for a 1650 Oliver
IP: 12.158.108.92 Posted on March 19, 2004 at 06:40:51 PM by Wilton Quattlebaum
Would someone mind suggesting where i can find parts for my Oliver 1650 Deisel. I have it down right now and I need One push rod and head gasket set
. I can't seem to find any parts for it anywhere. I tried the local dealers and they wanted a bit over 400 for the parts and that just seemed a bit much. If anyone could help a farmer out I would appreciate it. Wilton QuattlebaumRe(1): Parts help for a 1650 Oliver
IP: 64.91.73.63 Posted on March 19, 2004 at 07:15:24 PM by Ron Wolf
You found the parts, you just didn't like the price. Maybe http://www.valu-bilt.com/ is more to your liking. Re(2): Parts help for a 1650 Oliver
IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on March 20, 2004 at 00:38:36 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
1650 PTO
IP: 12.30.157.96 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 10:26:21 PM by Randy
Can someone give me some info on adjusting the PTO on a 1650? The PTO shaft turns all the time when the tractor is running. To hook anything up I have to shut tractor off. As soon as I start again, the pto is spinning slowly, and I dont care for that, way to dangerous. When I engage PTO, it snaps over nice and firmly. Any help would be appreciated.
Re(1): 1650 PTO
IP: 64.91.73.63 Posted on March 19, 2004 at 00:51:31 AM by Ron Wolf
Buy an operator's manual and learn how to adjust the PTO. It has a "brake feature". By the way, the engine should always be shut-off whenever implements are removed from or attached to the PTO. To leave the engine run is very dangerous.
Re(2): 1650 PTO
IP: 67.2.249.116 Posted on March 19, 2004 at 07:40:42 AM by Larry Harsin
There's a latch. In the disengaged position, this latch has to be latched very snuggly. If this doesn't do it, you probably have some worn plates in the PTO clutch assembly. Larry
550 EXHAUST ELBOW
IP: 207.144.98.227 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 09:28:40 PM by J. Mash
Larry I want to put a new exhaust elbow on my gas 550 while I am rebuilding the engine. Can heat be applied to remove the bolts without doing harm to the head? THANKS
Re(1): 550 EXHAUST ELBOW
IP: 67.2.249.116 Posted on March 19, 2004 at 07:36:35 AM by Larry Harsin
I think so, if you are careful. If you need an exhaust elbow, try Rick's Agri Parts 866-264-9720. Larry
power booster in an 88
IP: 158.247.216.39 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 05:43:37 PM by Geoffrey in KS
Larry, What modifications are involved with installing a power booster in an 88? If I can't have the belt pulley, I don't want the power booster.
Re(1): power booster in an 88
IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 08:52:39 PM by Larry Harsin
Then forget it. The belt pulley has to come out to have a power booster. Larry
STARTING
IP: 136.200.242.21 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 03:58:27 AM by AARON
LARRY. MY DAD AND I REBUILD OLD DEERES AND OLIVERS. I HAVE A 1946 OLIVER CLEAT TRACK, IN REBUILD STAGE, MY DAD AND I TRIED STARTING IT AND IT WON'T FIRE! HAD SMOKE OUT OF STACK ONCE. FIRING ORDER IS CORRECT, I HAVE THE HEAD OFF TO DO VALVE WORK ON IT HAS SOME PITTING AROUND THE VALVE SEAT AREA. IS IT A BAD MAGNETO? AND IF SO WHERE DO I GET ONE. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT! WOULD LIKE IT TO RUN TO FINISH THIS PROJECT.
Re(1): STARTING
IP: 64.91.69.209 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 07:35:56 AM by Ron Wolf
Engines need 4 things to run... 1) Compression, do a compression test. 2) Valve timing 3) Spark, timed and hot 4) Fuel/air mixture If compression is OK, squirt some carburetor cleaner in the carb when you try to start it. If it runs, even just for a few seconds, you have a fuel/air delivery problem. If not, you have an ignition problem.
Re(2): STARTING
IP: 136.200.242.21 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 10:25:22 PM by AARON LYNAM
THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY AND INFO RON! WILL KEEP IN MIND. AARON
Re(2): STARTING
IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 07:48:28 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Landis Zimmerman. He is a Cletrac Expert and he has a Cletrac Service Business and sells parts. He will be able to help you. Email him: zoc@att.net or phone: 717-738-2573. Larry
Re(3): STARTING
IP: 136.200.242.21 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 10:22:14 PM by AARON LYNAM
THANK YOU FOR THE INFO LARRY!
Clover White Paint
IP: 69.66.71.181 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 11:30:02 PM by Mike
Larry We are in the process of painting our 1650 and we started using the clover white we bought at Agco and it is a much "greener" color than the original clover white (doesn't look very good). Do you know why the color has changed slightly and how we can get a hold of the original clover white paint that was used on our Oliver 1650 or do you have the original paint code? Thanks Mike
Re(1): Clover White Paint
IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 07:44:02 AM by Larry Harsin
If you don't like that, check out this number PPG DAR 8805 Alabaster White. The AGCO paint should be correct, but that is the way it goes with batches of paint. Larry
Re(1): Clover White Paint
IP: 171.75.78.91 Posted on March 29, 2004 at 12:35:57 PM by Mike B
NAPA will also mix paint and has the correct Clover white codes. For those on a smaller budget, Home Depot will now mix Rustoleum enamel paints. The "Grasshopper" color is very close to the original clover white.
Re(2): Clover White Paint
IP: 205.188.116.210 Posted on April 3, 2004 at 07:48:31 PM by jwb
i painted a 1750 last year with agco paint and an 1855 this last winter. the clover white green tint fades out soon after its been in the sun and then looks like the good old white, i like the agco paint, i use it on trucks too,the price is right. i questioned the agco dealer about the green tint also. and was told that was the original factory color. fyi
1755 hydraulic pump
IP: 64.12.116.73 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 08:25:37 PM by merlin midgette
Need new pump or remanufacture one. If you know of a source for one.
Re(1): 1755 hydraulic pump
IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 10:30:51 PM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
88 engine conversion
IP: 161.184.52.23 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 01:38:17 AM by Zoltan Toth
Mr. Harsin A truly wonderful site, give yourself a pat on the back! I have an Oliver 88 super (1957) that has been run out of oil. Instead of doing a rebuild on the original engine, I want to put a Chev. 292 (1st choice) or Ford 300 (2nd choice) under the hood. I want to retain the live P.T.O. I will be mounting a Case model 32 backhoe to it and working it, so I figure it to be advantageous to convert to a readily available engine in the begining at less cost than rebuilding the original engine. Could you give any pointers on this subject or direct me to someone who has done it? I have a well equipped shop and prefer to do things deluxe the first time (it is faster in the long run and impresses the girls to boot). Thank you for any advice you can offer. Truly Zoltan Thank you for any help you can supply
Re(1): 88 engine conversion
IP: 67.2.242.36 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 07:36:09 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't have any advice. I have not done any of that type of work. Larry
Re(2): 88 engine conversion
IP: 161.184.42.143 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 11:27:11 AM by Zoltan
Thank you for your prompt reply. Does anyone else have any suggestions? Zoltan
Re(3): 88 engine conversion
IP: 64.91.69.209 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 12:30:42 PM by Ron Wolf
You might want to search the 'Net. A year or so back I remember running across a couple of people who had swapped in Chevy 292's.
Re(3): 88 engine conversion
IP: 158.247.216.39 Posted on March 18, 2004 at 05:37:14 PM by Geoffrey in KS
Did you find the site about installing a 292? As a machinest, I'm interested to see how it was done. I sure ain't going to ruin my 88 with a engine swap though.
Re(4): 88 engine conversion
IP: 158.247.216.36 Posted on March 21, 2004 at 08:30:07 AM by Zoltan
Dear Geoffrey, and everyone following along When I find what parts combination works for a 292 Chev. or 300 Ford to 88 Oliver, I will pass it along. My reason for wanting to do the swap is these engines are inexpensive and easy to find, not so the Oliver engine. My Oliver was run out of oil by the previous owner's son, and would not be cost effective to overhaul. I will of course keep the original engine for future consideration. My list of suitable replacement engines are the Chev. 292 @ 3.876" bore x 4.120" stroke, Ford 300 @ 4.00" bore x 3.98" stroke, and last but certainly not least, the Perkins 236-4 @ 3.875" bore x 5.00" stroke. My 88 Super has 265 c.i.d. @ 3.75" bore x 4.00" stroke. I prefer the 292 for the longer stroke out of the gas engines, but have driven both it, and the Ford 300 and have found both to produce ample torque at 800 r.p.m. with stock camshafts (that is, designed for truck applications). If one were to install a specialty ground cam for maximum torque at lower r.p.m., I don't think there would be a tremendous gain as I think the 292 is rated for maximum torque @ 1600 r.p.m. (this is from memory, not fact).
What I feel is necessary to do a conversion with the 292 or 300 is as follows:
- make bellhousing to locate starter high enough for tub clearance
- bridge engine mounting tabs in tub, and mount engine to that (if you want to use the stock engine block mounting position. OR
- make a plate at the front of the engine to pick up the tractor mounts (attach this plate with timing cover bolts and whatever else is available up there)
both the above methods would incorporate rear mounts in the freshly made bellhousing
- possibly add mass to the flywheel (that is, make it heavier, for better dampening of vibration)
- adapting the P.T.O. spline adapter to the rear of the crank/flywheel assembly (machine tools are wonderful things, would you not agree?)
- relocate steering shaft (I will convert to hydraulic cylinder on front axle and use hoses to connect, thereby gaining the ability to add tilt steering)
- align everything with dial indicator to achieve as close to .000" run-out as possible (no more than .005" in any direction)
- fit belt driven governor from combine application
Now you may say: "Well that's a lot of work to mess up a tractor that was real good to start with". What is gained, in my opinion, is the ability to re-engine the tractor (after the initial conversion work is done) in a day with a common engine that costs $50 to $200. Also, the 292 or 300 can rev. higher if need be, and parts are available cheap at the corner parts store (both these engines were factory fitted to tandem axle trucks, they can take abuse). The Perkins diesel would be my favorite pick, but the 236-4 I have is slated for use in my 310F Case crawler loader. If I had two, I would try to use one in the Oliver. I have not investigated if the Perkins flywheel would fit in the Oliver's tub however. All of the above is just hot air, I have not pulled the original engine from the 88, nor have I tried to fit the 292 in an Oliver tub to see how it fits. I have heard this conversion has been done before (using the 292), but have been unable to gather any information...yet. When I find something out, I will put it here so everyone can follow along. Thanks to all who have contributed thus far. Truly Zoltan
1855, white smoke,
IP: 216.68.37.238 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 10:48:10 PM by JOe
have an 1855 diesel, that puts out a bit of white smoke, smelling of fuel oil..seems to use excessive fuel also. no water leaks where should i start.??
Re(1): 1855, white smoke,
IP: 67.2.248.253 Posted on March 16, 2004 at 11:42:32 PM by Larry Harsin
Start by taking the injectors out having them checked first. You are going to have to remove the exhaust manifold to get at the injectors. With the exhaust manifold off, start the engine. If you notice one of the cylinders putting out the white smoke, that is the one to check first. However, you may want to just have them all checked out while you have it apart. Larry
Re(1): 1855, white smoke,
IP: 64.91.69.209 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 04:59:41 AM by Ron Wolf
A little white smoke when you first start a diesel cold is normal. But if it persists after 1-2 minutes or so, that's because there's not enough heat in the engine and it's pushing unburned fuel out the exhaust, hence the fuel smell. Common causes are a bad injector pump, wrong pump timing, or running without a thermostat.
Re(2): 1855, white smoke,
IP: 216.220.248.156 Posted on March 17, 2004 at 09:12:43 AM by mike
I would check compresion when you have the injectors out.