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"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - Mid-March, 2006 thru April, 2006 Archives
1600 3 point
IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on April 29, 2006 at 08:38:37 PM by Jeremy Bailiff
Larry, Just got a 1600 diesel, and the 3pt will not lift a load. It will lift an empty bale fork if I rev up the engin. I was also wondering if there is an easy way to convert 6v to 12v?
Re(1): 1600 3 point
IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on April 30, 2006 at 07:30:49 AM by Larry Harsin
Assuming that your steering is working properly, your problem with the 1600 3 pt. may be that the by-pass valve by your right foot may not be turned all the way in. It has a 3/4" bolt head on it. On a 6v tractor, going to a 12v, you will have to install a 12v generator and regulator or a 12v alternator. Then you will have to put a resistor between the switch and the ignition coil. And you will either have to put a resistor in the wires that go to the lights or put in 12v lightbulbs. The starter should work o.k. with it. I'm assuming that you are asking for a different tractor as your 1600 should already be 12v. Larry
Re(2): 1600 3 point
IP: 152.163.100.135 Posted on April 30, 2006 at 05:47:41 PM by Jeremy Bailiff
I just checked out the batteries in the tractor and they are both 6v. That may explain why it doesn't want to start. Thanks for the heads up Jeremy
Re(3): 1600 3 point
IP: 216.51.166.58 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 06:21:18 AM by ADB
If your 6 volt batteries are hooked in series (the cable connecting the batteries is connected to the + post of one battery and the - post of the other battery) you are getting 12 volt output.
white 2-155 engine overhaul $
IP: 206.72.40.156 Posted on April 29, 2006 at 04:19:07 PM by Rosco Sywter
it is a hercules 478 engine. i use it as my main tractor. has 4000 hours on it now, and i do not have to add oil between changes (125hr). what kind of hours can a expect before i have to overhaul? about how much would it cost? so far, i have just had to rebuild pump and injectors.
Re(1): white 2-155 engine overhaul $
IP: 67.2.249.162 Posted on April 29, 2006 at 08:07:57 PM by Larry Harsin
I think you could expect to get another 2000 hrs out of it. I havn't overhauled any of these engines, but I have been told that they are quite expensive to overhaul. I believe I would go ahead and take good care of the engine and use it as you are. Larry
S88 Diesel Starting Slow
IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on April 27, 2006 at 10:17:28 AM by Jim
I working on a 1954 Super 88 Diesel for an FFA restoration project. I bought the tractor with a worn input shaft and not running. I gone over the tractor mechanically (except rebuilding motor) and got ready to fire it up to see how it runs. I bled the diesel system according to the shop manaul (both low and high press. sides.) The tractor starts but I have to turn in over quite a while before it fires. Once it starts, it runs pretty good and the exhaust is white in color. The starter is good and I have a new battery. It was 70 degrees and sunny on the day so I dont think cold weather caused any issues. Also, started it about 30 minutes after bleeding and just let it run for a minute or two in the shed. 3 days later, I rolled it outside and started it and drove it. The cranking speed seemed to be good (similar to our 1956 Super 88 Diesel that is fully restored and starts great). The diesel fuel is brand new (primary filter is brand new, final filter is not new). It seems like I let the starter turn for 10-15 seconds, stopping for just a little bit and then another 10-15 turning over. I had to do that 4 times to start it (I think the white smoke showed up on 2nd time) One time, I turned it over once for 10-15 seconds, then pumped the lift pump priming lever like 3 times and then turned it over again and it started right up. Did I get all the air out of the lines? I'm wondering if the lift pump is weak? Or maybe an internal valve issue? Any help is appreciated.
Re(1): S88 Diesel Starting Slow
IP: 67.2.248.123 Posted on April 27, 2006 at 09:49:17 PM by Larry Harsin
The way it sounds to me is that your lift pump is weak. It may have a bad check valve. On the top of the pump, there are 2 little things with nuts on them. You can unscrew them and there is supposed to be a little spring and a little wafer in there for the Check Valves. The spring may be broken and gone or the wafer broken or something. I am out of these. If you have any old pumps laying around your shop, you may have some. If you find that these check valves are o.k, you may have some worn linkage that runs off of the cam. This is part of the fuel pump on your lift pump. If this is the case, you may want to get a different lift pump. Larry
Re(2): S88 Diesel Starting Slow
IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 09:44:30 AM by Jim Fitzgerald
Thanks for the information. It has the older style lift pump that does not have the 2 little things with nuts on them. I think I will pull the lift pump off and see what I find. Does anywhere sell rebuilt kits or does anyone sell used, rebuilt, new lift pumps? Also, should I look to upgrade to a newer one from a later S88 or 880 that has to two nuts on top?
Re(3): S88 Diesel Starting Slow
IP: 67.2.249.30 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 11:18:41 PM by Larry Harsin
The one you have IS the newer style. It has replacable check valves inside the pump housing above the diaphram. You can get these from Korves Bros. They come with a diaphram rebuild kit. Email: korves@htc.net Phone: 618-939-6681. Larry
1800-a
IP: 209.240.205.62 Posted on April 26, 2006 at 08:07:54 PM by Lonnie Novotne
The reman head I got today was junk now I cant find another one so is it possible for another motor from any other oliver that would bolt into my early 1800-a tractor. Thanks, Lonnie
Re(1): 1800-a
IP: 67.2.249.53 Posted on April 27, 2006 at 06:14:46 AM by Larry Harsin
I wasn't aware that there was ever a 310 in an 1800A. Someone might have put a 310 1800C diesel engine in there. But, I have never seen a 2 piece head on a 310 diesel engine. You can try an 1800B or C or a 1750 or a 1755 all diesels would bolt in. Before you give up on this, call Chapin Machine & Welding 800-648-1083. Give them the casting numbers off of the head and see if they have a head for you. When I said all diesels above, I meant those 4 engines in diesel. Not all diesel engines made. Larry
310 2 piece head
IP: 207.68.211.19 Posted on April 25, 2006 at 06:13:11 PM by Lonnie Novotne
Larry, I have a 1800 a with the early 310 with a 2 peice head with the 4 bolt thermastat and was wondering what other moters would have a head to fit. Thanks, lonifer
Re(1): 310 2 piece head
IP: 67.2.248.161 Posted on April 25, 2006 at 11:26:53 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. Larry
Re(2): 310 2 piece head
IP: 12.108.194.82 Posted on April 26, 2006 at 09:12:03 AM by Lonnie
How about some used valves? Thanks
Re(3): 310 2 piece head
IP: 67.2.249.53 Posted on April 27, 2006 at 06:01:17 AM by Larry Harsin
There should be some numbers on the valves somewhere. They would be on the back side of the head or on the end of the valve stem. I would need that or otherwise I need the measurement of the valve head (diameter) and the overall length of the valve. I'm assuming it is a 3/8" valve stem. I just doubt if I have anything, but I will look. Larry
Oliver 1465 or 1470
IP: 24.158.165.210 Posted on April 25, 2006 at 08:53:19 AM by terry tate
i just bought a oliver tractor and i need to know what it is but the decals are gone.i do have the model and serial numbers though...model# is 645-22001 and the serial is 829-269..i think its either a 1465 or a 1470..could you maybe tell me which one it is.and another question whats the diference between the 1465 and the 1470 could you also tell me the the horse power on the type of tractor it is thanks for any info that you may have
Re(1): Oliver 1465 or 1470
IP: 67.2.249.116 Posted on April 25, 2006 at 05:39:37 PM by Larry Harsin
I am not aware that they ever made and Oliver 1470. The serial number fits for a 1974 Oliver 1465. The tractor has 70 hp. It's shipping weight was 6460 lbs. The engine has 278 cu. ins. The list price new was $10,500. You should get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone them: 641-228-1099. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1465 or 1470
IP: 209.50.31.10 Posted on April 26, 2006 at 10:53:58 PM by B A Star
Spec Number 645-22001 is a 1465 Diesel with an adjustable front axle (only built in Diesel and adjustable front axle). This model was sold by Oliver from 1973 to 1975. Can't pinpoint the year. It was built by Fiat in Italy.
Char-Lynn Steering - Attaching Hoses
IP: 66.185.0.212 Posted on April 25, 2006 at 02:12:11 AM by Jim Smith
I removed the hoses from the power steering motor on my 1800, but the 1800-1900 service manual I have only has the early series motors. I need help attaching the new hoses to the steering motor. Can any of you give me a "top-right attaches to ________" so I can at least get this part of the rebuild completed?
Re(1): Char-Lynn Steering - Attaching Hoses
IP: 67.2.242.120 Posted on April 25, 2006 at 06:55:15 AM by Larry Harsin
Lines are connected as follows: The 2 ports closest to the steering wheel are the pressure and the return ports. The other 2 go to the steering cylinders. If you were holding the steering wheel straight up or skyward and facing the ports on the unit, Port A and Port B would be closest to the steering wheel. Port A (upper left) is the return line to the Hydraulic unit. Port B (upper right) is the pressure line from the hydraulic unit. Port C (lower left) is Left Turn. Port D (lower right) is Right Turn. On the Ports C and D, hook them up and check it, they may have to be switched. If this is confusing, give me a call. I don't have a scanner to send you a drawing. 712-362-2966 Larry
1800 A
IP: 12.22.181.213 Posted on April 24, 2006 at 10:02:41 AM by Dave
I have a 1961 1800 A diesel that will slip out of 4th gear most notably when I let the clutch out to take off or going down a hill otherwise it is ok. The other gears do not do this. Any suggestions. Thanks!
Re(1): 1800 A
IP: 67.2.248.90 Posted on April 24, 2006 at 09:43:01 PM by Larry Harsin
I think the problem may be the gears on the bevel pinion shaft are moving back and forth. There is probably a snap ring that has jumped out of the groove or a broken thrust washer. You can try to force the snap ring back into the groove by going down through the top of the transmission. If this doesn't work, you will have to dismantle the final drive and the transmission. Larry
Oliver 55
IP: 67.181.154.113 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 03:17:55 PM by Cecil
I have what I think is a 55 model oliver spec 15-0007, ID# 12744-518. It runs fine but the 3 point does not lift well after warm up. I get about 3 good lifts then almost nothing. What could be my problem?
Re(1): Oliver 55
IP: 67.2.242.45 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 08:37:02 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like the pump is weak. If the tractor has a remote valve on it, you can plug a pressure gauge in and take a pressure reading. If the pressure drops rapidly after the oil gets warmed up, you will probably have to repair the pump. The normal repair is a new center plate and a new rotor package, which can be obtained at your local AGCO Dealer. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. A Shop Manual will tell you the procedure. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 55
IP: 67.181.154.113 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 09:12:43 PM by Cecil
I don't understand what a remote valve would be??? There are 2 lines going to the back to provide hydraulic for an attachment. Is that where I would attach a pressure gague? Thank you for your reply and information regarding the shop manual.Cecil
Re(3): Oliver 55
IP: 67.2.249.22 Posted on April 22, 2006 at 06:13:59 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes. That is where you would attach the pressure guage. You should get an Operator's Manual from the Museum also. Your tractor is a Super 55. Larry
1850 hydraulics
IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 02:08:58 PM by Ed
I have an 1850 that the 3 piont will raise and lower but won't lift any weight.It worked fine last fall.
Re(1): 1850 hydaulics
IP: 67.2.242.45 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 08:31:17 PM by Larry Harsin
Try speeding the engine up to 2/3 throttle. Now wiggle the remote levers back and forth. This will help by sending surges of oil through the 3 pt. hitch servo valve. Sometimes the servo valve spool sticks, causing the 3 pt. to act as you describe. The action taken usually frees up the sticking spool. If this doesn't do it, you may have to take the lid off of the unit and free the spool up by taking it apart. Larry
12V Conversion
IP: 209.62.237.21 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 09:40:20 AM by Scott Aune
I switched my Super 88 over to 12V negative ground from 6V positive ground. I changed the starter, coil and put on a GM alternator. It ran good for a while and now burned the points to nothing. Is there something in the ignition path that I need to switch around since I switched polarity? As of now the path goes from battery+ to key switch to coil+ to distributor.
Re(1): 12V Conversion
IP: 67.2.242.45 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 08:26:05 PM by Larry Harsin
Change the wires on the coil. The wire coming from the ignition switch should go on the positive post of the coil. The wire that goes to the distributor from the coil, will go on the negative post. If you are still using your present ignition coil, you should put a resistor in the line between the ignition switch and the coil. Larry
2-155 seat arm rests
IP: 206.72.40.148 Posted on April 20, 2006 at 08:23:19 PM by Rosco Sywter
is there any way to repair these. the plastic insert that attaches the arm rest to the seat has broken on both. white says i have to buy the whole arm, at $100+ ea, as the insert in not available. is there another way?
Re(1): 2-155 seat arm rests
IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on April 20, 2006 at 08:49:23 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know of any other way. You might check with Speer Cushion Co. in Holyoke CO. Email: speercus@netscape.net Phone: 800-525-8156 Website: www.speercushion.com Larry
Re(2): 2-155 seat arm rests
IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 10:03:35 AM by J. Ulmer
I fixed a similar problem on a scraper by cutting an insert of a white semi-rigid upholstry foam (like comes out of a stadium seat cushion) to fit the arm rest and used colored duct tape to wrap it around the arm. It beat the heck out of bruising my boney elbows as I bounced along and doesn't look too bad either. Sorry I brain bombed. I had made a frame with electric conduit and strap iron to put the arm rests on and attached IT to the seat with screws and bolts and THEN padded it so I could lounge on it while turned around loading or unloading. My degree in mechanical engineering is from Experience U. on a Trial and Error Scholarship!!!
1650 fuel system
IP: 71.2.11.12 Posted on April 20, 2006 at 11:44:17 AM by Joe
Hi, I replaced the gasket and fuel filter at the sediment bowl on my Oliver 1650, and now when I tighten the bowl down enough to keep it from leaking, it creates a vapor lock somehow and cuts off fuel flow from the tank. Loosening the nut on the sediment bowl bracket starts the flow again, but also causes fuel to leak around the gasket. I have also had some blockages in the assembly from the tank causing it to restrict fuel flow to the sediment bowl. Are these two related? Any thoughts on corrective action?
Re(1): 1650 fuel system
IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on April 20, 2006 at 08:44:22 PM by Larry Harsin
I'd install a new sediment bowl on the tractor. I would make sure the fuel tank cap is venting. Larry
1650 hydraulic oil in trans.
IP: 131.151.85.178 Posted on April 20, 2006 at 09:02:47 AM by Gary Abbott
Hi Larry, My 1967 1650 is leaking hydraulic oil in to the transmission. What are the most likely causes for this? It leaks it out pretty fast! I need to get a shop manual. Could you give the email address or phone # to order one? Thanks for your help! Gary.
Re(1): 1650 hydraulic oil in trans.
IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on April 20, 2006 at 08:41:58 PM by Larry Harsin
The first thing I would check for would be a cracked oil pan on the hydraulic unit. If it isn't that, it probably is the pump seal. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Phone 641-228-1099. Larry
Re(2): 1650 hydraulic oil in trans.
IP: 131.151.85.178 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 08:30:22 AM by Gary Abbott
Thanks Larry, I was able to determine that the pan gasket in the area between the transmission and the resevoir is leaking, the gasket appears to be narrow right where the oil is running out. Glad to know it was not the pump seal. Thanks for a great website! Gary
2-70 hydraulic oil problem
IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on April 18, 2006 at 08:03:45 AM by Carl
A while back we replaced the hydraulic pump in our 2-70. We put all new AGCO gaskets in. We were careful putting it back together, but they are a real pain to put back in. We put those dowel pins in but they still don't hold the pan completely together. After we put it in it seemed like it used more hydraulic fluid than it should, but we kept running it and added some now and then. Lately, the hydraulic oil is dumping into the tranny really fast. We drained the excess out. I guess we'll have to take it apart again. We must have broke the gasket or something putting back together, I can't think of anywhere else it could be leaking into the tranny. Do you have any tricks to putting these together? My thought was to put some silicone on the gaskets and put some bolts in, in addition to the dowel pins to help hold it together. Then leave the whole thing hanging from the shop hoist overnight so the silicone can harden up good. Then take the bolts off the next day and put it back in. What do you think?
Re(1): 2-70 hydraulic oil problem
IP: 67.2.249.119 Posted on April 18, 2006 at 09:46:52 PM by Larry Harsin
I just go ahead and put it altogether. I don't wait. Those are a special rubberized gasket and I havn't had a problem with them. So, I don't know what your problem might be. Larry
Re(2): 2-70 hydraulic oil problem
IP: 4.249.204.21 Posted on April 19, 2006 at 10:14:48 AM by Larry from md
Your pan may have cracked.
Re(3): 2-70 hydraulic oil problem
IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on April 19, 2006 at 12:42:22 PM by Carl
Thanks, I'll check out the pan, I suppose it could have a hairline crack. Maybe if I clean it out good and hold a light to the back of it I could see it.
1750 PTO
IP: 69.179.32.181 Posted on April 17, 2006 at 08:11:55 PM by keith peterson
Larry, I have a 1750 diesel and the pto will keep spinning when not engaged. Sometimes faster than others. What do I need to look for. Thanks Keith
Re(1): 1750 PTO
IP: 67.2.249.51 Posted on April 17, 2006 at 09:08:41 PM by Larry Harsin
If you can't adjust it as per the Operator's Manual, it probably has warped clutch plates and they will have to be replaced. Larry
1750 timing
IP: 68.72.1.3 Posted on April 17, 2006 at 08:43:38 AM by Steven Van Gompel
I have a Oliver 1750 that runs on after shutting of the key. I tried to check the timing, but could not find the 26 degree btdc mark. I did find tdc mark though. Do you have to use a degree wheel to time this engine? Thanks.
Re(1): 1750 timing
IP: 67.2.249.51 Posted on April 17, 2006 at 09:06:42 PM by Larry Harsin
With the engine idling at approx. 600 rpm, with a timing light, I would attempt to set this at tdc. This tractor should idle down to about 600 before you try to shut it off. Also, as a matter of habit, I leave the tractor in gear and let up on the clutch as I shut the engine off to try to prevent this problem. If this engine is equipped with the vacuum advance, the vacuum line must be disconnected before you set the timing. Larry
pto 1600 oliver
IP: 71.125.23.247 Posted on April 16, 2006 at 06:37:46 PM by tom puccini
hi larry ,i would like to know if the clutch on the pto can be adjusted. it continues to run with the lever disengaged . it has a gas engine.
Re(1): pto 1600 oliver
IP: 67.2.249.248 Posted on April 16, 2006 at 09:32:19 PM by Larry Harsin
Take it apart and look for worn parts or warped plates. For replacements, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
Oliver 1955
IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on April 16, 2006 at 09:13:51 AM by Randy Riner
I have a 1971 Oliver 1955 looking for a 540rpm PTO Shaft wondering what size tractors that I could possibly pull one out of to fit my tractor...
Re(1): Oliver 1955
IP: 152.163.100.202 Posted on April 16, 2006 at 10:48:53 AM by Don-Wi
You can get one from a 1755 on up and also from a White 2-85 and 2-105. Watch on ebay as pto shafts usually come up at least once a week, or call Wisconsin Tractor Parts, (920) 984-3327 Donovan from Wisconsin
Re(2): Oliver 1955
IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on April 16, 2006 at 02:23:42 PM by Larry Harsin
Don is correct on the tractors to get the part from. If you don't find the part in WI, you can try Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry
White 2-70
IP: 136.181.195.221 Posted on April 14, 2006 at 00:55:47 AM by Jim Hutchinson
Power steering and pto quit at the same time. Looking for suggestions where to start. Might this a hydralic failure or the result of worn spines on the long shaft that runs from the back of the tractor up to the flywheel. Thanking you in advance.
Re(1): White 2-70
IP: 67.2.249.113 Posted on April 14, 2006 at 06:01:26 AM by Larry Harsin
That would be my first guess. That drive shaft is not driving those units. Larry
1750 brakes
IP: 64.181.89.191 Posted on April 13, 2006 at 07:23:00 PM by Chet Risser
I have a 1750 oliver that the brakes stick. What could we do about it.
Re(1): 1750 brakes
IP: 67.2.249.96 Posted on April 13, 2006 at 10:10:59 PM by Larry Harsin
Take them apart and clean them up. Make sure the springs that hold the 2 metal plates together are good. I usually replace them. You can get replacements from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Make sure the linkage that actuates the plates are not rusted or binding. Replace the brake discs if they are worn. Larry
Oil pan super 55 or 66
IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 07:31:45 PM by Larry
Do the Super 55's and the 66 Olivers use the same engine oil pans. According to my parts book the parts number for the Super 55 engine oil pan is L-165-A.
Re(1): Oil pan super 55 or 66
IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 09:18:52 PM by Larry Harsin
I think the S55 oil pan is a bit deeper than the one on the 66. Both would probably work on the 66, but a 66 pan may not work on a S55. Larry
Spanner Wrench for Hydra-Drive Sprocket
IP: 66.185.0.212 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 07:07:58 PM by Jim Smith
I am in the middle of overhauling Hydra-Drive on my 1800. I need to get the sprocket off so I can replace it. Where can I get a spanner wrench or how can I remove the nut holding the sprocket on?
Re(1): Spanner Wrench for Hydra-Drive Sprocket
IP: 67.142.130.36 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 08:54:20 PM by Jason Epperson
I modified a socket used for Ford Ton truck rear axles when I worked on my 1800. It is made by O.T.C. but I can't recall the number right now.
Re(2): Spanner Wrench for Hydra-Drive Sprocket
IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 09:14:48 PM by Larry Harsin
I have used a hammer and punch or take a cold chisel and cut the nut off of the shaft. A lot of times it will ruin the threads when you try to unscrew it. Then you'll have to get a new nut. You can reassemble it using a hammer and punch to tighten it or you can fabricate a spanner wrench out of tubing. Or you could modify an existing spanner wrench as Jason says. Larry
Re(3): Spanner Wrench for Hydra-Drive Sprocket
IP: 209.234.80.21 Posted on April 13, 2006 at 06:55:34 AM by Jim Smith
I will try the punch and hammer tonight. I bought a rebuild kit for the hydradrive so I have a new replacement nut so I am not worried about the current nut, just getting it off the shaft.
550
IP: 216.114.209.138 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 05:40:37 PM by lyle
Larry, i just bought a 550 gas thas has not run for a long time, got it running but there is a clunking noise in 2nd and 4rth gear is this a common thing to go out on these , i believe it is a 58 model thanks Lyle
Re(1): 550
IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 09:10:03 PM by Larry Harsin
No. That is not a common thing.... I would remove the drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission and see if any shavings or little chips fall out. If it shows evidence of problems, I would remove the hydraulic and have a look. Larry
1650 power steering
IP: 68.30.204.193 Posted on April 10, 2006 at 07:23:04 PM by Jayson
My 1650 turns right......constantly. The minute you crank the engine it starts turning the wheel, and when you are driving it wants to take the wheel out of your hand. The fuel tank is now out, only to find a nasty array if steel lines and hoses in way too little space. What am I looking for (other than a volunteer to take over) now? No leaks or anything are apparent. Thanks in advance.
Re(1): 1650 power steering
IP: 67.2.242.23 Posted on April 11, 2006 at 05:24:04 AM by Larry Harsin
Your hydra-motor is bad. The control for it is on the bottom of the steering shaft on the top of the hydra-motor. Something there has come uncoupled in the controlling valve. You may have to get a different hydra-motor. You can check with Valu-Bilt for a different hydra-motor assembly. 888-828-3276. You will have to remove the hydra-motor assembly to repair or replace. Larry
S77 Hyd Pressure
IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on April 10, 2006 at 09:42:52 AM by Chuck
I have a '55 Super 77 Diesel. I recently changed the oil & filter in the hydraulic unit. I went through the procedure for bleeding it out, but I still can pick up my new hay rake (pequea rotary rake). I didn't have any trouble with my 1855 on it. Since it is a new rake, how do I determine if I have a pressure problem? The rake calls for 1200 psi, and from what I read, the tractor puts out 1250. Any thoughts?
Re(1): S77 Hyd Pressure
IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on April 10, 2006 at 07:25:41 PM by Larry Harsin
You need to get a pressure gauge and see what your tractor has. I doubt if it has that much pressure. 1250 is the maximum that you can hope that that S77 will produce. The 1855 has a higher pressure system than the S77. The 1855 is set up to deliver 2000 psi. Larry
Re(2): S77 Hyd Pressure
IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on April 11, 2006 at 05:26:00 AM by Chuck
Thanks, I put a guage on it last night and found I had about 750 psi on a normal idle. At higher rpm I had about 1000. I read in the manual that you can shim the relief valve. Is this a good way to do it?
Re(3): S77 Hyd Pressure
IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on April 11, 2006 at 09:32:19 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. I would put in 3 shims and try to get 1200 lbs. It will take at least that many. You need K2079 shims. I have them if you want them, email me. Larry
Re(4): S77 Hyd Pressure
IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on April 19, 2006 at 05:37:55 AM by Chuck
I had some shims at home. You were right. 3 shims, and I was just under 1300 psi and I now have plenty of lift capacity.
1600 D
IP: 216.51.249.222 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 08:26:39 PM by farmer Tom
I have oil running out of the coupler between the engine and transmission. Is it from the Hyro-power or the hydraulic system?
Re(1): 1600 D
IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 10:21:15 PM by Larry Harsin
I doubt if it is from the hydraulic. It could be from the transmission or the hydra-power - either one. Larry
1755 Neutral Noise
IP: 24.152.213.144 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 02:27:29 PM by Mike
My 1755 has a noise in the uppper transmission neutral. When I put it in the upper neutral and let the clutch out the engine loads down. When I put it in the lower neutral everything is fine. When I turn the input shaft by hand it turns smooth in both neutrals, but there is more resistance in the upper neutral. I have the top plate off and everything looks fine. Is there anything else I should check before I tear it apart?
Re(1): 1755 Neutral Noise
IP: 67.2.248.104 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 06:45:35 PM by Larry Harsin
Check to make sure the transmission lube pump is working. If you loosen the filter on the side of the tractor and turn the transmission, oil should pump out where that filter is. This will tell you if the lube pump is working. The pump that oils that transmission is driven with a small bicycle type chain inside the transmission. Larry
Re(2): 1755 Neutral Noise
IP: 24.152.213.144 Posted on April 10, 2006 at 10:21:05 AM by Mike
I checked that out. Its working well. I had a gauge on the filter. I got 20 psi
Re(3): 1755 Neutral Noise
IP: 67.2.242.23 Posted on April 11, 2006 at 05:27:15 AM by Larry Harsin
There is something that is binding in there. You are just going to have to figure out what it is. Larry
2255 losing hyd. oil
IP: 24.177.99.194 Posted on April 8, 2006 at 05:35:21 AM by CZ
I have a 2255 that is losing hydraulic oil into the rear end, and fast. I can fill reservoir to full and start tractor and in 2 minutes it is pumped dry and the pump starts sucking air. Where would you recommed to look first for this leak? Seemed to happen while tractor was running a pto-driven grain vac; pto stopped turning.
Re(1): 2255 losing hyd. oil
IP: 67.2.242.102 Posted on April 8, 2006 at 05:32:43 PM by Larry Harsin
I'd say that you have a blown seal in your PTO. Plug the lines that go to the PTO and see if it still loses hydraulic fluid. If it doesn't your leak is in the PTO seal. If it still leaks out with those lines plugged, you have a leak somewhere else. Larry
Re(2): 2255 losing hyd. oil
IP: 24.177.99.194 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 06:01:47 AM by CZ
The curious thing is that while this problems seems to have surfaced during pto work, the tractor will lose the hydraulic oil even when the pto is not engaged and, if I assume correctly, there should be no oil flow to the pto anyway. Or is there some lube or standby pressure applied to the pto that would leak with a bad o-ring even with the lever not engaged?
Re(3): 2255 losing hyd. oil
IP: 67.2.248.104 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 06:40:24 PM by Larry Harsin
There is some oil pressure there. When the PTO is disengaged, there is oil pressure there to apply the brake in the PTO unit. So, to test it, you need to plug those lines. Larry
PTO on 60
IP: 68.30.176.241 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 06:38:06 PM by Jayson
I couldn't get the PTO lever on my 60 to move, so I disassembled it.....It appears there is a fork missing. The big question is how do I get the shaft out of that housing? Can't seem to see a snap ring or anything. Would you happen to have the fork that I think it is missing? Thank you in advance for your answer and thanks for all the info you share.
Re(1): PTO on 60
IP: 67.2.249.126 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 09:20:55 PM by Larry Harsin
You have to take the 2 bolts on the PTO loose and the whole PTO will come out. Then you can take it apart and inspect it. The PTO has a separate compartment for oil. You may have to take the PTO assembly and the clutch assembly apart and clean it up and see what is wrong with it. I don't have a fork. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry
Re(2): PTO on 60
IP: 209.50.31.10 Posted on April 8, 2006 at 10:04:10 PM by B A Star
Jason: The model 60 does not have a shifter fork. The bottom end of the shifter lever just fits into a circular grove in the bottom gear. The PTO unit has a shaft that is splined into the rear of the transmission input shaft. That shaft has a drive gear at the rear. When the lever is moved forward, it moves the bottom gear on the splines on the output shaft away from the input shaft gear, thus disengagement. Move the lever to the rear and gear is slid on the splines for engagement. The PTO, when in gear runs when the engine clutch is engaged, there isn't a PTO clutch.
Re(3): PTO on 60
IP: 68.30.143.205 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 05:50:45 PM by Jayson
Thanks for the info. I guess I thought a fork should be on that gear...Someone tore into this before because I found the groove where the snap ring should be under bearing race, and the shaft is slightly twisted. Looks like I have a project someone else gave up on.
Diesel leaking on Super 55
IP: 172.156.3.133 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 05:19:22 PM by Ron
I have a problem with diesel fuel leaking while the tractor is running. It seems to be leaking from the Govenor, at least that's what I think I am looking at. I was wondering if anyone knows if I can get a gasket kit or something to repair this problem.
Re(1): Diesel leaking on Super 55
IP: 67.2.249.126 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 09:16:03 PM by Larry Harsin
You probably need a new lift pump repair kit. That will help eliminate the fuel from getting into the engine oil. You can get a kit from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681 Email: korves@htc.net Larry
super 55 rims
IP: 170.29.1.10 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 02:47:29 PM by joe hagan
larry i was wondering if you could help me i am looking for a set of rims for my super 55 i want to use a finish mower on it and would like to get a set of turf tires on it and still have the tractor tire on rims so all i have to do is go back and forth between as needed thanks joe
Re(1): super 55 rims
IP: 67.2.249.126 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 09:13:16 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have rims. I do have a pair of turf tires. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 for rims. If you are interested in the tires, email me. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry
Re(2): super 55 rims
IP: 69.77.135.129 Posted on April 8, 2006 at 09:29:24 PM by J. Mash
You can get wheels and dishes at robertstractor.com 24" 26" or 28" sizes.
Oliver 1800 transmission popping out of gear
IP: 63.170.168.57 Posted on April 5, 2006 at 10:07:15 AM by Todd Anthony
I have an Oliver 1800 diesel tractor that pops out of gear when I use the lower "H" The upper "H" does fine. I suspect a worn or bent shifter fork. If so, where can I find one and how much of a job is it to change. Thank You
Re(1): Oliver 1800 transmission popping out of gear
IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 05:24:20 AM by Larry Harsin
Possibly you could find a shifter fork at Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304. There are 3 shifter forks in there. Difficulty depends on which one you have to change. You should get a Shop Manual before you begin. If you need one, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1800 transmission popping out of gear
IP: 63.170.168.57 Posted on April 7, 2006 at 09:55:47 AM by Todd Anthony
Thank You. I do have a shop manual, but there is not much info on these. Is there a way to tell or measure if they are worn or bent? Thanks again.
Re(3): Oliver 1800 transmission popping out of gear
IP: 67.2.248.147 Posted on April 7, 2006 at 10:21:06 PM by Larry Harsin
Not really other than observation. Larry
88 rebuild
IP: 168.214.86.59 Posted on April 5, 2006 at 09:09:51 AM by Larry
I have an 88 gas that runs but has several leaks. I want to do a total restoration and was wondering what you would charge for a rebuild and clutch if you have time and if not what is a fair price range and any recomendations on a mechanic. I live just west of Indianapolis. Thanks
Re(1): 88 rebuild
IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on April 6, 2006 at 05:17:35 AM by Larry Harsin
My time is completely booked for a long time. Contact Paul Rode 317-862-4379 there in Indianapolis. He is a Past President of the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors. Perhaps he could reccommend a mechanic near you. Another HPOCA member near you is David Sharp 317-243-3172. Roger Oliver at Nevada IA does restorations 515-382-5646. A fair price range is hard to say. Larry
1555 front rims
IP: 71.161.232.134 Posted on April 4, 2006 at 08:04:58 PM by Arek Galle
My father's 1555 has a front end loader and 6.00x16 tires, on 5.5 rims. This set-up is inadequate in soft conditions because the front end is overly heavy - even without a full bucket it sinks out of sight. I'd like to find a better tire and rim combination, but am concerned about maintaining clearance to the spindles and don't want to over stress them. Any suggestions and sources for a rim with proper backspacing and offset-and a better tire size would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help.
Re(1): 1555 front rims
IP: 67.2.249.247 Posted on April 4, 2006 at 09:43:24 PM by Larry Harsin
I'd reccommend that you go to a 7.5x15 tire. You'll have to get different hubs and rims. They'll have more carrying ability than the tires that you have. I don't like floatation tires on loader tractors. They are just more trouble. Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I think he will be able to fix you up. Larry
Re(2): 1555 front rims
IP: 71.161.233.32 Posted on April 8, 2006 at 07:12:39 PM by arek galle
Thank you for the suggestion...I'll give him a call. It may be a dumb question, but why are you adverse to putting flotation rims on a loader tractor..lack of steering control, losing the bead seat, or...?
Re(3): 1555 front rims
IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on April 9, 2006 at 10:24:20 PM by Larry Harsin
Floatation tires are good sometimes, but they create more problems than they solve sometimes. You will have more trouble with spindles and tie rod ends if you put too big of tires on it. Larry
77 Engine Surge
IP: 69.221.249.6 Posted on April 3, 2006 at 09:56:46 AM by Kris
I am still having problems with my 77 gas engine surging. I adjusted the linkage according to the operators manual & replaced the bumper spring and also has a rebuilt carb. Any other suggestions?
Re(1): 77 Engine Surge
IP: 67.2.242.70 Posted on April 4, 2006 at 06:15:00 AM by Larry Harsin
Those things should have "fixed" the problem. You might try lengthing the rod between the governor and the carb another 16th of an inch. Beyond that, I don't know. Larry
1850 Hydraulics
IP: 69.66.157.120 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 09:02:57 PM by Mike Webster
I have an 1850 Diesel (I think it is a 1967) and when I try to turn the steering wheel, the front wheels won't turn unless tractor is moving. Doesn't matter what RPM - it does it at low idle or full throttle. I had the hydraulic pressure checked and the mechanic told me it was fine pressure. It seems when I try to turn the steering wheel, there is some chatter near my left foot. Any ideas on what I might need to do to boost power steering pressure so I can turn front wheels when tractor is not moving?? Thanks alot! I enjoy your website!!
Re(1): 1850 Hydraulics
IP: 67.2.242.75 Posted on April 3, 2006 at 06:01:08 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't think the problem is with your pressure. It is adequate. It might a problem in the front end itself and how much weight is on the front end. Does this tractor have a loader on it? Are there binding joints or king pins or ball sockets? Does it need lubrication? The size of the front tires and the tire pressure has an effect on this, also. Larry
Re(2): 1850 Hydraulics
IP: 69.66.71.193 Posted on April 4, 2006 at 00:08:24 AM by mike
It does it with or without the loader on. There are no weights on the tractor. A couple of years ago I rebuilt the front powersteering unit, replaced the lower bushings in the front end, and replaced needle bearings in the king pin. I think tire size is 11x15 (4 rib tires). We have also greased the front end thinking that might be the problem but it didn't seem to help. Any specific things I should start with checking or rechecking? Thanks
Re(3): 1850 Hydraulics
IP: 67.2.242.70 Posted on April 4, 2006 at 06:11:55 AM by Larry Harsin
Without having the tractor here to look at it, I don't have any ideas. You may have to try a different hydra-motor. Larry
Re(4): 1850 Hydraulics
IP: 4.249.108.33 Posted on April 4, 2006 at 01:11:05 PM by Larry from md
You can add shims to the flow divider spring.The pressure should be 1500,but you can go a little higher.I wonder if the pressure was checked at the right place.Normally the pressure relief only blows when you turn all the way to one side.Are the small holes in the flow divider plugged?
ring and pinion
IP: 24.158.124.248 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 08:50:38 PM by ccl how many sets of gears did they make for a 77 oliver? what are there numbers? do you have any fast ones? thank you.
Re(1): ring and pinion
IP: 67.2.242.75 Posted on April 3, 2006 at 06:46:59 AM by Larry Harsin
For the 77 Oliver, they made 5 different ring gear and pinions. There was the: MSR602 with a 12-50 bevel for Row Crop, MSR602A with a 14-48 bevel for the Standard, MSR602B with an 11-50 bevel for the Row Crop or Industrial, MSR602C with a 13-48 bevel for the Standard, and MSR602D with a 9-48 bevel for the Row Crop or Industrial (this was a special low speed.) I have a 77 Standard Chassis with a ring gear and pinion in it, but I don't know what number is in it without checking. If you want info on that, email me. Larry
Engine Number
IP: 206.176.221.48 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 08:12:51 PM by Aaron
Larry, I was cleaning out my father's parts shed for his Oliver parts and came across an engine block with the numbers 221320 and below that,158544A. What Oliver would this be originally out of? Thanks
Re(1): Engine Number
IP: 67.2.242.75 Posted on April 3, 2006 at 05:54:12 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it is out of an 1800. Larry
770 Gas Oil Pressure
IP: 69.205.114.103 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 07:20:43 PM by Justin
Larry, What should I expect for oil pressure on a 770 Gas engine? I installed a set of aftermarket gauges - the oil pressure gauge reads 20 psi - this seems low.
Re(1): 770 Gas Oil Pressure
IP: 67.2.242.75 Posted on April 3, 2006 at 05:52:41 AM by Larry Harsin
Actually, that is on the high side for a 770. Those engines were designed for 12 - 18 lbs. of oil pressure at operating temperature. Larry
S77 compression psi?
IP: 64.136.27.227 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 01:33:20 PM by eric
Did a compression test on my '55 S77 yesterday. Cylinders all around 135-140 psi dry and wet compression. Tractor runs fine, but uses a little oil and the plugs are a bit on the carbon coated side. Was just curious to see the engine's health. What ought the compression be on this engine? I can't find it in the operator's manual, my I & T service manual, or other discussion forums, but I know someone hear will know. Wondering if my compression is good, low, or high? If high, what's the recommended way to try to get rid of the carbon? I've heard things ranging from slowly adding a little water to the carb on a warmed up engine to Marvel Mystery oil in the gas or squirted into the cylinders overnight.
Re(1): S77 compression psi?
IP: 67.2.242.75 Posted on April 3, 2006 at 05:50:42 AM by Larry Harsin
I'd rate your compression as good. It can vary by the style of sleeve and piston that is in the engine. I wouldn't be concerned about the carbon on the plugs. The best thing you can do is put the engine to work. Possibly, try a little fuel additive, such as the Marvel Mystery oil. In my experience, if carbon deposits pose a problem, the best thing to do is remove the head and clean it out. Larry
Hard Starting
IP: 24.16.211.124 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 11:36:31 AM by Bill Guise, Kent WA
Larry: I Have a hard working, dependable OC3 Oliver Dozer. When I stall it after running it for an hour or all day, it will not restart until it cools down, usually about 1/2 hour. This has a Magneto, not a coil. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bill
Re(1): Hard Starting
IP: 67.2.248.121 Posted on April 2, 2006 at 11:42:46 AM by Larry Harsin
These symptoms could easily be a coil getting weak in the magneto. If your engine is an "L" head engine (flathead), they tend to be more prone to hard starting when they are hot. I would have the magneto checked. Larry
1855D idle
IP: 64.45.254.27 Posted on March 30, 2006 at 08:24:03 PM by Chris
I have an 1855D Idles at about 800 but not smooth sounds like the governor is hunting smooths out at about 1100 RPM any ideas?
Re(1): 1855D idle
IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on March 31, 2006 at 09:28:04 PM by Larry Harsin
That is just the way some of them are. All you can do it take it in and have the pump checked. Larry
1600 Oliver
IP: 72.147.146.67 Posted on March 30, 2006 at 06:44:28 PM by Roger
Larry, I have a 1600 gas tractor. I am thinking about getting a 1855 gas tractor, will the 1855 be a much bigger gas hog than the 1600? Also would the steering unit on an 1855 be interchangable with the 1600? I appreciate your web site and have gotten a lot of good info from it. Thanks
Re(1): 1600 Oliver
IP: 67.2.248.51 Posted on March 30, 2006 at 08:08:11 PM by Larry Harsin
The 1855 is approx. 30 hp more and it will burn gas accordingly. The steering unit would not be interchangable with the 1600. Larry
550 radiator problem
IP: 65.78.213.73 Posted on March 29, 2006 at 05:57:22 PM by Chet Risser
We have a 550 oliver it is leaking a little water out of its radiator any sugections on what kind of stuff to use to seal the hole?
Re(1): 550 radiator problem
IP: 67.2.242.90 Posted on March 29, 2006 at 10:06:04 PM by Larry Harsin
You can try Bar's Leak or Silver Seal. If this doesn't do it, you should take it off the tractor and have it repaired at a radiator shop. Larry
Starter problem on Super 88
IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on March 29, 2006 at 12:22:20 PM by Jim Fitzgerald
I getting ready to fire a '54 Super 88 Diesel. It has the starter rod that you manually engage. When I push in the starter rod, the bolt on the end of the starter rod that makes contact with the starter switch causes a spark. This this spark normal or is something not right with the starter? FYI - its original with 12V generator and when it does this, I had the rest of the electrical system unhooked. The battery is connected and the cable to starter from the battery is hooked up, but everything else is unhooked. Any info is appreciated.
Re(1): Starter problem on Super 88
IP: 67.2.242.90 Posted on March 29, 2006 at 10:03:43 PM by Larry Harsin
You need to get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. It will have an appropriate wiring diagram in it. You can email them: fchs@fiai.net or phone: 641-228-1099. That spark is not normal. You probably have a bad switch. Larry
Re(2): Starter problem on Super 88
IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on March 29, 2006 at 10:19:18 PM by Jim Fitzgerald
Thanks for the info. I have a operator's, shop, parts manuals. I put all new wiring on it and hooked everything up and it doesn't spark anymore - whatever was wrong seems to be ok now.
Plow for 1600
IP: 151.197.51.167 Posted on March 28, 2006 at 05:35:28 AM by Mike Neary
I am looking to buy a plow for our 1600 diesel tractor. I found some good 2 bottom and 3 bottom plows, with coulters (We'll be plowing a field with weeds/grass). How big a plow can the 1600 pull? Also, I have seen different coulter designs. One was a thin 14 inch disk, while the second plow had smaller diameter (10 inch) disc that appeared thicker and sturdier; it also has a scallops removed around the wheel. Any thoughts on which would work better in stoney Pennsylvania shale soil?
Re(1): Plow for 1600
IP: 67.2.186.25 Posted on March 28, 2006 at 08:26:07 PM by Tom
That 1600 should pull a four bottom, I pull one with a 880 and have no problem. Larry will give you good advice.
Re(2): Plow for 1600
IP: 67.2.249.42 Posted on March 29, 2006 at 06:04:48 AM by Larry Harsin
That tractor should pull 3 16 or 4 14 plow. You should have a trip beam plow for stony soil. Do you want a mounted plow? or would you want a pull type? I have a nice 4 bottom Model 4340 Oliver with trip beams and hydraulic lift that would work on your tractor. If you want, you can email us or call me. 712-362-2966 Larry
70 model Rims
IP: 64.12.116.8 Posted on April 7, 2006 at 03:48:10 PM by paul schacht
trying to find out if rims off70or 770 will fit on a farmall h tires are 12.4 38 thank you paul
Re(1): 70 model Rims
IP: 67.2.248.147 Posted on April 7, 2006 at 10:28:39 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think they will. Some of the Salvage yards have rims for a Farmall H. Check with Leader Tractor Salvage in Dunlap IA. 800-831-9290. Larry
1944 70 model
IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 05:56:34 PM by John Reynolds
hey larry I have got a 1944 model 70 and am having trouble finding an oil filter it had a wix 51102 but the parts store said they cant find it or cross it so if you can think of some brands to use I would surely appreciate it.thank-ya
Re(1): 1944 70 model
IP: 67.2.248.168 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 10:08:05 PM by Larry Harsin
I have one. Email me and I can fix you up. Larry
perkins 1850
IP: 144.92.86.203 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 01:33:15 PM by mgm
I need to replace the value cover gasket. I plan on using the rubber one . Do you have anby sugguestion and could you please step me though this procedure.
Re(1): perkins 1850
IP: 67.2.248.168 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 10:05:52 PM by Larry Harsin
The gasket is made from viton. It is expensive. You'll have to get it through AGCO. They are supposed to last the life of the engine. I've not bought one for years so I'm not sure how expensive they are now. I don't have any special instructions except that I would install it dry. Also, you'll have to retighten after you have had the engine hot, so that it will take a "set". There may be installing instructions with the gasket. Otherwise, if necessary, I can check the Shop Manual for that. I think there are 6 screws that go through that gasket and also there are clamps that go on the ends of the valve cover. There were 2 different styles of valve covers on the 1850 Perkins. One was cast iron and one was pressed steel. You'll have to tell your supplier which one you have, so that you get the proper gasket. Larry
Re(2): perkins 1850
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on April 12, 2006 at 12:51:50 PM by Shep Va
There is also supposed to be a gasket with a metal backing that holds the gasket to the sides like it is supposed to be. I think you can get them through AgCo, I am trying to find one now for my 1850 as well.
1600 rear hub bolts
IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on March 26, 2006 at 10:15:53 PM by Bob Foulks
Dear Larry, I have a 1600 diesel that I need the rear lug bolts for. They measure 5/8"x 11 x 2 1/4". I've been to several dealers and parts stores plus spent 3 afternoons on the computer looking for them but no one can help. I've E-Mailed several salvage yards but I guess they didn't want to be bothered with such a small item.I need 9 bolts for each wheel. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance, Bob Foulks, Shamong,NJ
Re(1): 1600 rear hub bolts
IP: 67.2.249.136 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 06:57:53 AM by Larry Harsin
I checked and I don't have any of these. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Imp. 800-320-6224. He will have them. What you need is a 5/8" coarse thread rear wheel bolt. Part number: 103959A. Larry
Re(2): 1600 rear hub bolts
IP: 207.69.138.137 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 08:50:59 AM by Bob Foulks
Dear Larry... Thanks so much for the info. I've looked years for these lug bolts and could not find them anywhere. I took your advice and called O'Brien's and they're on their way to New Jersey! If you don't mind I have several other problems with our 1600 I need help with. I'll be talking to you soon....Many thanks Larry!! From A Happy Farmer in NJ, Bob Foulks
Super 77 motor oil?
IP: 66.189.187.143 Posted on March 26, 2006 at 09:30:55 PM by Dale Hoech
I just bought an Oliver Super 77 gas tractor. I don't know the year or the engine horsepower or how to determine it. It seems to run okay. I want to change the oil before I drive it about twenty miles to my place. What weight oil and kind of oil should I use for the first change? Thanks, Dale
Re(1): Super 77 motor oil?
IP: 67.2.249.183 Posted on March 27, 2006 at 05:24:42 AM by Larry Harsin
I'd put 10w30 in it. Whatever brand. Larry
tractor cab
IP: 69.18.32.45 Posted on March 26, 2006 at 04:29:04 PM by shannon
i know this isnt a tech question but i have a 1964 1800 series c model and am looking for a cab to put on it. every path i have taken so far ends up at a dead end a few places told me i was on a hopeless mission. any info would be greatly appreciated. thank you
Re(1): tractor cab
IP: 67.2.249.208 Posted on March 26, 2006 at 05:11:40 PM by Larry Harsin
I would check with the Tractor Salvage places. Such as: Worthington Salvage 800-533-5304, Rock Valley Salvage 800-831-8543, and Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry
Re(2): tractor cab
IP: 69.18.32.45 Posted on March 26, 2006 at 05:46:20 PM by shannon
thank you for the quick response i have tried several salvage yards but not those. thanks again for the info. great website. shannoon
Re(3): tractor cab
IP: 216.254.227.53 Posted on April 21, 2006 at 10:30:41 PM by Gary Copperstone
I have a nice Oliver Continental cab that I took off of my 1968 1750. I can't tell you if it will fit your 1800 but if you are interested, call me at 605-665-6148 at Gayville, SD
Re(4): tractor cab
IP: 67.2.249.115 Posted on April 24, 2006 at 02:28:00 PM by Larry Harsin
It should fit. You might have to make a few minor adjustments. Larry
Tilt O Scope steering 1550
IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on March 21, 2006 at 07:29:22 PM by Dave Drury
Larry, Thanks for all the help, "you the man" when it comes to Olivers. My 1550 restoration is coming along fine, however, the Tilt O Scope steering doesn't tilt or telescope. It must have been parked to close to a lesser tractor. Any suggestions on where to start.
Re(1): Tilt O Scope steering 1550
IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on March 21, 2006 at 10:57:53 PM by Larry Harsin
You are going to have to take the thing apart. There is a good chance that the little plunger on the foot pedal is stuck. About the only way to get at it is to remove the power steering hydra-motor from the tractor. It's a heck of a job. After it is removed from the tractor, clamp it in a vise and loosen the outer tube on the steering column and slide it up off of the steering shaft, to get at the parts of the telescoping steering column. These are usually just dirty and rusted. Clean them up and get it telescoping again. This could easily take a full day getting it back the way it should be. Larry
Re(2): Tilt O Scope steering 1550
IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on March 23, 2006 at 12:40:13 PM by Dave Drury
Since the steering works perfectly otherwise, I think I'll just rough it and drive it where it is. Leave well enough alone............
Re(3): Tilt O Scope steering 1550
IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on March 23, 2006 at 10:09:51 PM by Larry Harsin
I would agree with that. It is a LOT of work to get that corrected. Larry
66 diesel
IP: 66.21.90.195 Posted on March 21, 2006 at 10:49:08 AM by Kevin
Larry, I have a 66 Diesel with new sleeves, pistons, rings, reworked head with new valves, injectors rebuilt, good energy cells, but it has a hard time starting. The supply pump seems to be pushing plenty of fuel. I can preheat it twice for about 25- 30 seconds and sometimes it will start, other times just needs a small whiff of starting fluid. I advanced the timing about 4 degrees and this helped from what it was before. After warm it usually starts right back up. Arnie Meyer said you worked on one of his with the same problem. Do you think the pump needs rebuilt or any other suggestions,
Re(1): 66 diesel
IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on March 21, 2006 at 10:50:57 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think the injection pump is the problem since it starts better after it is warmed up. I would have the starter checked over, as cranking speed is very important. Larry
Re(2): 66 diesel
IP: 66.21.90.195 Posted on March 22, 2006 at 06:12:30 AM by kevin
So if it still starts hard or needs to be heated after run awhile it could be the pump, but if starts real good after warm starter or weak battery.
Re(3): 66 diesel
IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on March 22, 2006 at 10:50:52 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. Larry
parts
IP: 209.50.143.179 Posted on March 20, 2006 at 09:58:54 AM by john
larry are there any parts that are interchangeable for a 60 row crop, like the gauges, side panels, or fenders
Re(1): parts
IP: 67.2.249.26 Posted on March 21, 2006 at 06:17:41 AM by Larry Harsin
The gauges and lights will interchange with the fleetline 66, 77, 88. The grills and PTO shield, will interchange with a 70. Some of the seat parts will interchange with the fleetline 66, 77, 88. The side panels and fenders are unique to the 60. Larry
88 Diesel
IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on March 19, 2006 at 05:21:26 PM by Bill Fleck
Hi Larry, we have an 88 diesel, it has a slight surge to the engine. When it is on the auger, running 14 to 15 rpms, you can see it by smoke from the engine, and the throtle lever on the pump moves ever so slowley back and forth. It is a slight problem, just wondering, if there is something I can adjust on the outside of injection pump. Thank you for your help. Bill Fleck
Re(1): 88 Diesel
IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on March 19, 2006 at 07:14:53 PM by Larry Harsin
I think it has a worn thrust spool in the governor. It will have to be taken apart and checked. Larry
880 wheels
IP: 216.51.166.58 Posted on March 17, 2006 at 03:45:02 PM by Arvin DeBoef
I have just purchased an 880 diesel with power adjust rear wheels. The rims are painted silver. My question - were the rims painted silver or white from the factory? Also, from your bio, you must have been working for VanZee Imp when my dad traded his Super88 in for a new 1800. Boy, were we proud!
Re(1): 880 wheels
IP: 67.2.248.88 Posted on March 18, 2006 at 11:39:51 PM by Larry Harsin
The rims and the rails were painted silver on the power adjust rear wheels. I worked for VanZee Imp. from 1960 thru 1963, so I probably met your Dad at the time. Those were good times. Larry
1550 Hydra-Power Drive
IP: 64.61.110.10 Posted on March 16, 2006 at 04:09:49 PM by Charles B Limmer
I have a 1969 1550 diesel with hydra-power drive that shudders when pulling a load in 'direct' at all engine speeds, in any gear. When I shift down to 'under' the shudder goes away. Should I be looking for a bad bearing or gear in the hydra-power drive? If so, can I get the HPD unit out without pulling the engine?
Re(1): 1550 Hydra-Power Drive
IP: 67.2.249.245 Posted on March 16, 2006 at 07:31:29 PM by Larry Harsin
I suspect that your direct drive clutch is slipping. You are going to have to try to set the pressure up a little on the direct drive circuit. You should get a Shop Manual so that you know what you are doing. You can get a manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. If that doesn't fix it, you will have to take it apart and see where the problem is. To work on the hydra power drive, the engine has to come out. Larry
550 pto
IP: 69.34.26.9 Posted on March 16, 2006 at 03:38:08 PM by Rodney DiPaolo
I am looking for info to find out what I need to take apart to replace the clutch pack that operates the PTO.
Re(1): 550 pto
IP: 67.2.249.245 Posted on March 16, 2006 at 07:24:55 PM by Larry Harsin
You'll have to get a Shop Manual and give your tractor the "Z" split. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry
Oliver 1755 Diesel
IP: 172.194.18.68 Posted on March 15, 2006 at 04:32:44 PM by Dusty Franklin
I found a Oliver 1755 diesel tractor today. It has a hole in the block. I think it is a 1974 year. Would like to now what motor Oliver put in this tractor? and what motors will work in it? I have a 1975 White 2-105 with the 354 perkins I got the motor out of a 760 Massey Ferguson combine would that work in the 1755 oliver?
Re(1): Oliver 1755 Diesel
IP: 67.2.242.90 Posted on March 15, 2006 at 09:19:28 PM by Larry Harsin
Oliver put a 310 Waukesha engine in the 1755 diesel. Another motor that will work in it is a 283 Waukesha gas. If you change your frame by getting an 1850 front frame or a 2-105 front frame, you could put in a 354 Perkins. Larry