"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid Sept. thru Mid Oct., 2002 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid Sept. thru Mid Oct., 2002 Archives
Oliver 1650
IP: 35.11.129.149 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 12:31:32 AM by Andrew
Hi I have an Oliver 1650 with the indirect injection motor that fires in the head, and I'm looking to get rid of that motor because it is very hard to start and it constantly blows head gaskets. What motor would bolt into that frame and have more horse power than the 1650? Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 1650
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 09:50:35 PM by Larry Harsin
You could put the later style 1650 engine in it. Or you could put a 1650 gas engine in it and it would have at least as much power or maybe a little more. With some adaptation, a 1750 engine might work and it would have a little more power. Larry
valve lash
IP: 68.128.193.226 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 00:08:57 AM by Allan
My dad just called me and asked if I knew the valve clearance specs. for his 1800 Diesel. I don't have any manuals so got on the Internet and found your site. Would you have these specs? Thanks PS I'm living in Flagstaff, AZ but Dad's just up the road from you in Sherburn, MN. Don't know if you heard about the silo converted into apartments (just north of Sherburn on Hiway 4) but he's the guy who did it.
Re(1): valve lash
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 09:44:53 PM by Larry Harsin
I talked to your Dad on the phone and he got the info he needed. Thanks for checking with me. Larry
770 w/1550 Diesel
IP: 64.33.181.92 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 04:24:48 PM by Paul A. Ramey
I asked for your help with a miss/hesitation in the engine. Well after taking the head off, I found that it had a bad head gasket, & #1&2 injectors were bad/weak. It starts and runs much better now! Thanks for the help. Two questions for you. 1. My temp gage moves from cold to hot as the engine warms up. About the time the thermostat opens up the gage reads full scale. Would you think that I have a bad sending unit? 2. How do I test the fuel gage and sending unit? My gage stays at full all of the time. They are not talked about in the IT service manual. Thanks! Paul in WI
Re(1): 770 w/1550 Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 08:09:55 PM by Larry Harsin
It's possible. You could have a bad thermostat that is sticking also. It could be either one. Disconnect the wire from guage to the fuel tank. Then the gauge should fall back to empty. If it doesn't the guage is bad. If it does, the sending unit is bad or that wire might be grounded (like touching the hood where the wire goes to the sending unit). There should be some insulation around it in that spot. Larry
OLIVER 70
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 12:58:35 AM by David Jones
I just bought an Oliver 70 row crop. Can anyone divulge any info i.e. horsepower, c.i. motors etc.
Re(1): OLIVER 70
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 08:04:31 PM by Anonymous
Horsepower is approx. 30 horse. The Cubic Inch is 200. The 70 weighs approx. 3100 to 3500 lbs. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry
Oliver 770 brake replacement
IP: 216.178.76.54 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 11:55:57 AM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I got a new set of brake linings for my 770. I just wanted to know if you can just install them or is it necessary do resurface anything in the brake housing like you would do to a rotor on a car? Thank you for your time and help. Your website is great and a very big help to me. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 brake replacement
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 08:00:10 PM by Larry Harsin
Normally all you have to do is clean up the surfaces with emery cloth or sand paper to get the rust, oil and grease cleaned out. Wash the surfaces with solvent. That should do it. Larry
pto
IP: 68.117.192.241 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 08:19:33 AM by john cobb
While dragging drive way with my 1550, the pto engaged and will not disengage, just runs constantly like my old 8n. Could you please give any suggestions as what happened and how to cure it. AS always, Thanks for your great site and help. John
Re(1): pto
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on October 15, 2002 at 06:12:37 AM by Larry Harsin
Something has broken in the linkage inside the PTO clutch. Take off the cover and inspect the throw-out bearing and linkage. If you can't see anything wrong there, disassemble the PTO clutch and examime the clutch facings. Also check the cap screws that secure the clutch assembly to the drive hub. Larry
Re(2): pto
IP: 68.117.192.16 Posted on October 16, 2002 at 03:51:59 AM by john cobb
Thank you for the info, I'll take a look this week-end. You are a "Wealth of Knowledge", thanks for sharing it with us Oliver Lovers. Thanks so much. John
hydrualic pump leak
IP: 24.222.244.213 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 07:18:23 AM by Neal
I have a 1949 77 row crop that is leaking the hydrualic oil down into the transmission very fast, what would be causing this?...... thank you
Re(1): hydrualic pump leak
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on October 13, 2002 at 07:58:04 PM by Larry Harsin
This is caused by worn bearings and seals in the hydraulic pump. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will send them to you. Larry
Re(2): hydrualic pump leak
IP: 24.222.244.213 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 05:43:27 AM by Neal
thank you very much Larry........
Oliver 66 diesel
IP: 24.151.34.174 Posted on October 12, 2002 at 06:45:04 PM by Jon
Hi, I recently purchased a 1952 66 diesel and it seems that the injector pump could be out of adjustment as the tractor smokes excessively. Is there anything I can do?
Re(1): Oliver 66 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on October 12, 2002 at 08:11:20 PM by Larry Harsin
There is a smoke screw adjustment on the back of the governor housing. Remove a plug to get to the smoke screw inside. Using a small screw driver, turn the adjuster counterclockwise 1 turn and try it. This might be enough, but if not adjust it some more. If the engine has quite a few hours since it was worked on, you may need to have the injectors checked. Larry
preheater
IP: 68.117.192.241 Posted on October 11, 2002 at 04:06:25 AM by john cobb
I am in need of a preheater, wiring and switch for a 1555 engine in a 1550 tractor. Any and all help locating these parts is greatly appreciated. thanks What a great site for this Oliver lover.
Re(1): preheater
IP: 209.163.7.68 Posted on October 11, 2002 at 07:14:45 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts at: 800-831-8543. I believe the preheater etc for a 1650 will work and that they will have that. Larry
Re(2): preheater
IP: 68.117.192.241 Posted on October 11, 2002 at 06:36:36 PM by john cobb
Thanks for the quick response and i'll try them. thanks john
770 serial number
IP: 167.239.218.44 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 02:39:37 PM by Larry Hardin
could you explain my number to me. Model number is 247-1139. The serial number is 164724-021. Thanks
Re(1): 770 serial number
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 10:10:18 PM by Larry Harsin
Your serial number is 164724. Your tractor was built in 1965. The 021 is a code number that tell more info about how the tractor was set up when built. The model number tells if it is and Ag tractor, An Industrial or a Standard and things like that. Larry
550 decals
IP: 207.67.12.125 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 12:53:36 AM by Greg S.
I have a 1961 Oliver 550 gas, serial #112,839-519. I need a decal and front emblem for the tractor, but am running into conflicting/missing information. The existing plastic emblem, although cracked, is black lettering on white and chrome background. No decals remain on the tractor. My grill is metal and rounded. I purchased a replacement set (decals and emblem) from Dumont, but the lettering is red. Dumont has no definte information on the 550 colors for 1961 and they don't sell black. What should the colors be, black or red?? Anyone know where I can get these colors?
Re(1): 550 decals
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 10:05:33 PM by Larry Harsin
Call Jim Vickroy 614-654-3596. He can answer this for you. He makes decals also. And he has some odd ones that no one else has. He may know what color you need. Larry
MORE HP.
IP: 216.187.241.202 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 10:12:22 AM by HARDEN
LARRY, I'VE GOT A 88 THAT WHEN I REBUILT THE MOTOR I CARRIED IT TO A SUPER 88 MOTOR. I STILL NEED MORE H.P.WHAT ABOUT THE CARB. AND INTAKE. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.REALLY ENJOY YOUR SITE. THANKS
Re(1): MORE HP.
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 09:59:19 PM by Larry Harsin
You could install a set of 3 & 7/8 inch sleeves and pistons from Tisco. This company is located in Minneapolis. I can get this overhaul kit for you if you are interested. You will need a special gasket set for it also. When you do this, you will need to install a larger manifold and carburator. I would reccommend one from a 1650. If you think you would like to do this, email me, and I will put together some prices for you. Larry
Super 55?
IP: 65.129.144.113 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 06:07:35 AM by John
I looked at a S55 yesterday. A little rough but runs/drives OK. Transmission jumps out of 2nd and 4th as soon as clutch is release even if holding shift lever. What kind of problems could I expect to find in the transmission? Thanks for any info.
Re(1): Super 55?
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 06:31:59 AM by Larry Harsin
If it jumps out of gear when you are trying to hold it in gear, you DO have a problem. It could be serious and then it might not be too expensive. You won't know until you take it apart. I would allow around $400 when I dealt for this tractor, to help cover repairs. Larry
1800 Oliver gas engine
IP: 209.163.16.174 Posted on October 9, 2002 at 11:36:32 AM by mike
Larry, I recently purchased a 1800 Oliver gas engine tractor. I've been searching your website and don't see them talked about too often. It is a "C" series as the serial number is in the 157 thousand range. Are there any historical problems I should be aware of with this tractor? Thanks for your help.
Re(1): 1800 Oliver gas engine
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 06:27:44 AM by Larry Harsin
Not really. Those engines did pretty well. If it is in good condition, you should get good service out of it. Parts availability is o.k. Larry
Steering Cylinder
IP: 208.49.186.114 Posted on October 9, 2002 at 09:37:58 AM by AL
Hi Larry I have a 1969 1850 we just bought and the front steering cylinder is leaking at the end cap. I would like to know if you can change the O rings without removing the unit or should I take it out and rebuild the complete cylinder? The steering is working fine but need to stop the leak let me know what you think are the parts expensive? I have an IT manual that shows how to rebuild it. Thanks AL
Re(1): Steering Cylinder
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 06:24:30 AM by Larry Harsin
If the steering is working fine, I wouldn't rebuild the cylinder. I would just get a new "O" ring on the cap. I have never had this problem and I don't know for sure if you have to remove the unit to do this or not. Larry
Re(2): Steering Cylinder
IP: 66.192.61.19 Posted on October 11, 2002 at 01:28:57 PM by Shep
Had the same problem on my 1850 once, you can do this without taking the cylinder out of the tractor, but you do have to remove the white front grill and maybe the radiator if you cant get to it. There is a trick to that endcap, it has a spring clip that holds the endcap on and there is a hole in the cylinder that you have to stick a nail or a small punch into and the spring clip will pop out and then you can pull the endcap. Be careful putting the O-ring in so you dont pinch it. Good luck
1954 Row Crop 77
IP: 157.134.186.201 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 08:57:31 PM by Norm Stahl
Looking for more horsepower, I was told that I had to go to a bigger carb. Would a 1550 intake and carb bolt up to my 77 and would it be a bigger intake or is there a bigger intake I could use that would bolt up to the 77 head. I've spent 2 years rebuilding the motor and I have it bored out to a 3 3/4" hole with diesel pistons. Compression ratio is 185 to 187 foot pounds per cylinder. The head has been ported and relieved with bigger valves.
Re(1): 1954 Row Crop 77
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on October 9, 2002 at 04:43:54 AM by Larry Harsin
I would suggest that you get a 1550 manifold and carb. It will bolt right up. Larry
oliverlete 88
IP: 204.210.172.222 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 01:15:13 PM by don weaver
I saw the oliver 88 with the chevy motor in for sale. If I am thinking right the motor in a 770 runs in reverse from a typical chevy motor. If the 88 is the same way, did they use something to reverse the rotating direction or did they use something like a marine chevy motor with reverse rotation. Just curious on how it was done.
Re(1): oliverlete 88
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on October 9, 2002 at 04:41:51 AM by Larry Harsin
It's the same rotation as the Oliver engine. Larry
1655 D
IP: 209.143.34.232 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 07:34:36 AM by Wayne
Hi Larry: I have very high oil pressure (at the gauge)even when tractor is warm. Relief valve in main gallery,under alternator is O.K. It has a mechanical gauge plumbed to filter base I will check with another gauge there. What is the valve in the filter base? And is there a danger in running with high oil pressure. Usually stays up around 50 PSI. As always Thanks
Re(1): 1655 D
IP: 209.143.34.184 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 10:33:29 AM by Wayne Hess
Just got done checking at oil filter base.With engine at operating temp.,at 1000 RPM oil pressure is 40 PSI. At 2400 RPM oil pressure is 60 PSI
Re(2): 1655 D
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on October 9, 2002 at 04:39:32 AM by Larry Harsin
That is common to the 1655 D. They really should have a guage that shows a higher pressure like a 1755. The deal is that White used the same guage for gas and diesel tractors and diesel should have a guage that goes up to 80 lbs. What I am saying is that you don't have a problem. The diesel has more oil pressure than the gas. Larry
1265
IP: 216.16.45.228 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 09:29:15 PM by Scott Blom
On my 1265 oliver tractor I am wondering how the 1510 oliver loader is permently fix to the tractor. Right now it appears to have quick hook up. Because right now there is some play around the brackets.
Re(1): 1265
IP: 209.163.7.93 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 05:31:47 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. Check with Charles City and ask for information on the 1510 loader. You can get an Operator's Manual for both your 1265 and the 1510 Loader. A parts catalog would also be of help to you. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(1): 1265
IP: 216.16.45.228 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 09:33:23 PM by Scott Blom
Also how common was it to see a Fiat motor in a 1265 oliver tractor.
Re(2): 1265
IP: 209.163.7.93 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 05:34:25 AM by Larry Harsin
Fiat built the 1265 Oliver tractor for Oliver. They were built in Italy. There were lots of them and they are good little tractors. Larry
Re(1): 1265
IP: 216.58.70.39 Posted on October 12, 2002 at 06:51:55 PM by Danny Bowes
The 1510 and 1512 loaders tended to get wobbly from extended, heavy usage, most notably in the front crossbar that ties the side brackets together, and the boom pivot pins would turn, and wear themselves and their bores, resulting in a shaky loader. I'm never much of a one to suggest welding anything that wasn't welded in the first place, so, if your crossbar holes are worn oblong(you will never be able to keep the bolts tight like that), drill them out to the next size that will make them round again, and use new bolts with neoprene locknuts, and crank em tight. The solution for worn boom pins and bores is to resleeve the bores, and add a rotation stopper to the new pins; just weld a piece of 3/8 inch rod across the end of the pin, leaving about 2 1/2 inches out one side. An inch away from the pin, put a 90 degree bend in the rod. Drill a corresponding hole in the upright standard of your loader for this rod to insert into when you slide the pin home, and the pin will be withheld from rotating, and wearing itself and the bore. Make sure to install a grease fitting in the new sleeve, and keep it greased! Import Tractor Parts
success!!
IP: 65.56.246.50 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 08:19:33 PM by Wil Thomas
Larry, thanks for your help! My s55 is runnin near new. My next project is brakes. Are they difficult? And is there somewhere I can get a brake job manuel? Also. the muffler runs along side the manifold, then turns downward. But I noticed several holes in the hood above it. Should it turn upward? and were those holes for a bracket to hold a tail pipe in the upward position? If so, would you have that bracket? Again, thanks much! You help keep Olivers alive and kicking! Wil
Re(1): success!!
IP: 209.163.7.67 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 08:41:29 PM by Larry Harsin
No, brakes are not difficult. You can get an I & T Shop Manual for your S55 from Charles City. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. The muffler can go either way you would like it to go. Yes, there is a bracket to hold it up if that is the way you want to go. I do not have one. Talk to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl about your brake job and ask him if he has the bracket. 800-320-6224. Glad you like the website, we enjoy it! Larry
super88
IP: 137.36.250.75 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 10:09:18 AM by jason
i have found a super 88 which i have been looking for one for a long time. the only thing is they want 3750$ for it, they say it runs good and has power steering but it looks realy rough. what do you think of this price the tractor can be seen under the ironsearch web page in forth page of oliver tractors.
Re(1): super88
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 11:20:50 AM by carl
$3750 sounds high for a rough looking super 88. I would shop around more or try to negotiate the price further.
1750 leaking fuel
IP: 216.16.46.13 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 10:04:56 PM by Tim D
I need to remove the manifold from my 1750 and will have to replace the manifold gasket. She is leaking Diesel from the return on top of the engine. Any idea where I can get a gasket kit?
Re(1): 1750 leaking fuel
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 10:25:42 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get a manifold gasket from your AGCO Dealer. You may not have to remove the manifold to fix this fuel leak. On a 1750 Diesel there are plastic "T's" that break and start leaking. John Deere used the same ones on a 4230. So you can get them from JD. If you cannot get to the leak by removing the side panels, you may have to lift the hood. Larry
Re(2): 1750 leaking fuel
IP: 208.10.124.232 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 04:59:47 PM by Larry from Maryland
If you take all that stuff off make sure you replace ALL the plastic T's.
Oliver 770 brake linings
IP: 216.178.87.174 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 05:02:18 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I need a set of brake linings for both sides on my 770. I believe they have 29 splines in the middle of the liner if I counted right. The serial# is 164889-021 & the model# is 247-1161. Would you happen to have a set of these for sale? Also is there 2 linings on each side or just the one in the front that you see when you remove the brake cover? Thank you very much for your time & help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 brake linings
IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 06:52:45 PM by Larry Harsin
There are 2 lined discs in each brake assembly (4 per tractor). The best place to get these right now is T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. Larry
1850 smoking
IP: 137.36.250.75 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 01:59:42 PM by jason stiehl
i have an 1850 with a perkins, when i first got it, it smoked real bad and also had a skip in it, i started by adjusting the valves and it seemed to helped a bit but still has a skip and still blows a little white smoke any help on what eles i could do would be great. thanks jason
Re(1): 1850 smoking
IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 06:48:41 PM by Larry Harsin
If it hasn't been done recently, I'd have the injectors checked. Larry
Tractor vs. ATV?
IP: 141.156.133.37 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 07:19:33 AM by David
Stupid question...I just purchased 14 acres of land with a 1/4 mile dirt, gravel, lane leading uphill to the house. My father-in-law tells me I need a tractor, (here comes the stupid part) has anyone had experience with an ATV 4x4 for plowing snow and road scraping? Can't afford a new tractor and thinking an ATV might be the way to go? My needs will be snow removal, road scraping, road repair, light tilling and disking. Tractor dealers tell me tractor ATV dealer tell me ATV and I am not sure. My father-in-law has an Oliver 660 and I have seen it work hard. Any thoughts would be great. Sorry for this type of question on an Oliver tractor site. THANKS
Re(1): Tractor vs. ATV?
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 12:47:36 AM by Larry Harsin
Well, I would think that a used tractor would be cheaper to buy and maintain than an ATV equipped to do these things. Larry
Re(1): Tractor vs. ATV?
IP: 199.150.177.187 Posted on October 7, 2002 at 11:25:15 AM by Carl
I have both. I do not think you will get the weight and power to do the job with an ATV. ATV's are fine for city folks with a small driveway. 1/4 mile driveway is too much for an ATV.
Re(1): Tractor vs. ATV?
IP: 165.200.87.109 Posted on October 8, 2002 at 02:53:18 PM by tractor & atv
Look at this way, a tractor is an investment because it's value will remain constant or increase. The atv is a liability because it's value will only decrease. If you want machine to do it all, then find a used tractor with a loader and 3 point hitch. Yes, I know you might have to spend $5,000 - $10,000, but you'll be glad you did and you'll be able add & use all sorts of implements on your acerage. Remember work before play. So buy the tractor for the work and add the atv later for play.
Re(1): Tractor vs. ATV?
IP: 68.128.193.49 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 11:17:46 AM by Allan
Picture this scenario: Sooner or later you or someone else will get stuck in snow or mud or slide off that 1/4 mile ice-covered driveway. Will that 4X4 ATV pull you out? HA! Will a tractor with chains pull you out? Definitely! Going to do any mowing on that 14 acres? A tracor with a belly-mounted or rear-mounted mower will do it in no time. I bet that somewhere down the road you'll be pulling out old tree stumps, etc. That toy ATV will be useless.
Hydra Power fluid
IP: 208.49.186.148 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 11:02:53 PM by Al
Is Dextron with Mercon the same as type A fluid that is in the Hydra Power? Thanks Al
Re(1): Hydra Power fluid
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on October 6, 2002 at 12:43:35 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes. That is the one to use. Larry
hyd head for injector pump
IP: 207.243.169.45 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 08:59:49 PM by Elmer Rotert
Where can a person find a hydr. head for a Bosch injector pump on 88 diesel. 1953 model. Thanks for the help. If have one call 660-693-4465 after 8.00 pm central
Re(1): hyd head for injector pump
IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 09:58:55 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Central Fuel Injection at Estherville IA 712-362-4200. Their website is: www.centralfuelinjection.com. Another place to check is: State Line Diesel at 888-242-9875. Larry
Oliver 1250-A Hydraulics--reply to Kevin
IP: 216.58.66.147 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 04:32:19 PM by Danny Bowes
Kevin, if your fluid is milky or creamy, your system is taking in air. Check the hydraulic return line where it's attached to the filter casing near the pump... inspect the area where it joins the filter casing for cracks. Seepage is a sure sign of a crack, and you need look no further. Your tractor's hydraulic system will be taking in air there. This is a common thing with 1250-A to 1370 Fiat-based tractors, and can cause constant, or intermittant loss of hydraulic power, and will also cause cavitation or starvation of the main pump. Remove the line by it's two bolts at the pump, and the one big, drilled feed one underneath the rear end. Be careful not to lose the upper copper washer from the big bolt. Catch the fluid underneath the rear end when you remove the big bolt. With the line off, take the cap off the filter casing, pull the filter out, drain all excess fluid out of the line, wipe the fluid out of the filter casing, and braze all the way around the line where it meets the filter casing. Once you're done the repair, it'd be a good time to add new fluid and change the filter, also. Hope this helps.
Re(1): Oliver 1250-A Hydraulics--reply to Kevin
IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 09:55:19 PM by Larry Harsin
Thanks, again, Danny. I hope Kevin sees this. Larry
Oliver 500/600 Tractors
IP: 216.58.66.147 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 04:04:52 PM by Danny Bowes
Hello, Larry. Just dropped by to check the board. You provide a great service. Now, the 500/600 Oliver tractors... To anyone considering buying one of these to use for regular duty, I strongly advise against it. Why? Some parts are very hard to get for them. I've been trying for almost a month to get a distributor for a 500 Gas for a lady, and am having no luck whatsoever. Bearings and gaskets for 500's only come from an overseas custom maker, and are big bucks. Most parts you take for granted with other tractors, you can't get for these ones... here's an excerpt from a letter I wrote back to a guy on a parts inquiry on a 500: "...I can get water pump kits, but not the water pumps themselves, fuel pump kits, but not the fuel pumps themselves, carburetor kits, but not the carburetors themselves, brake lining kits, but not the brake shoes themselves, tie rod ends, but not the linkage itself... I think you get the idea... " Another problem that these David Brown-sourced tractors have is a sneaky hydraulic pump situation; when cold, the hydraulics will work fine, and will make a prospective buyer think they're looking at a good, servicable tractor that they can put to work... Unfortunately, once the hydraulic system WARMS UP, the pump may not even be capable of lifting a 3PTH blade... and I can't currently get new pumps... Beware. In summary, buy an Oliver 500 or 600 for show and tell, not work. PS: if you want a utility-sized Oliver, buy a Super 55, a 550, or a Fiat-built one.
Re(1): Oliver 500/600 Tractors
IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 09:48:58 PM by Larry Harsin
Danny! Thanks for the information. I hope people read this post and in future I will refer them to it. Larry
Oliver 500?
IP: 141.156.133.37 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 02:47:59 PM by david
I am looking at purchasing an Oliver model 500 (that is the model number that I am told). The serial number is 100331g. That is all I know can you tell me anything about this tractor? Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 500?
IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 09:44:24 PM by Larry Harsin
This Oliver 500 was built in 1960. They built them from 1960 - 1963. It was built by David Brown in England. The engine is 154 cu. in. The 500 had 33 hp. Six speeds forward and 2 reverse. It weighs 3725 lbs. The list price $2670 when new. For parts, go to this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry
Re(1): Oliver 500?
IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 09:44:24 PM by Larry Harsin
This Oliver 500 was built in 1960. They built them from 1960 - 1963. It was built by David Brown in England. The engine is 154 cu. in. The 500 had 33 hp. Six speeds forward and 2 reverse. It weighs 3725 lbs. The list price $2670 when new. For parts, go to this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry
Re(1): Oliver 500?
IP: 141.156.133.37 Posted on October 5, 2002 at 10:02:19 PM by David
Thanks for all the information and comments, sounds like I need to keep looking. BY-THE-WAY I am in the south-central Pennsylvania area, if anyone has a tractor for sale?
broken bolt/broken ez out
IP: 198.81.20.159 Posted on October 3, 2002 at 10:21:23 PM by Pat
I noticed a bolt missing for the retainer at the rear pivot ball on the drag arm on a 550. Removed retainer and found a busted bolt inside the housing. Tried to drill it out and discovered someone snapped an e-z out (hardened steel of course) inside the hole. How can I drill out the hole to remove the bolt? Thanks a million!!!
Re(1): broken bolt/broken ez out
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on October 4, 2002 at 06:27:23 AM by Larry Harsin
You have a problem!! I would take it to a welding shop or a repair shop that has skilled people to work on it. That is a very tough situation and is not for the ordinary person to deal with. Larry
Re(1): broken bolt/broken ez out
IP: 204.210.172.222 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 11:55:12 AM by DON WEAVER
It is a bad situation but I have already had a couple of easy outs broken. My best fix was to buy a set of masonry bits. It is very dificult to keep the bit centered especially when using a hand held drill. It works but takes some time and probably more than one bit.
Re(1): broken bolt/broken ez out
IP: 68.129.10.72 Posted on October 14, 2002 at 11:58:37 AM by Allan
Here are some things to try: If the easy-out is flush with the bolt surface, try welding a nut to the easy-out with a low-hydrogen rod (#7018, I think). Be sure to turn the nut clockwise to back out the easy-out. If the broken bolt is flush with the surface, you may be able to weld a nut to it and back it out. Heat the broken bolt first as much as you can to help it break loose. By using a nut and welding in the hole, you're not as likely to accidently weld the broken bolt to the housing. Some machine shops may have an electrostatic discharge machine that can vaporize that broken easy-out. A guy that's good with a cutting torch might be able to burn out both the easy-out and the bolt. The crumbs blowing back at you make this difficult. If it's poosible to drill clear through the casting so you can see daylight (after the eay-out is gone), it's a piece of cake. When you hit the torch's oxygen lever after heating the metal red-hot, the hot metal actually burns up from the extra oxygen you're adding. The trick is to get the broken bolt red hot, hit the oxygen lever and stay on it while moving the cutting tip around to burn out all the broken bolt. The crumbs will blow out the hole you drilled thru the bolt and casting. The rust around the bolt threads acts as an insulator and keeps the threads in the casting from getting red hot so they don't burn out. If you've noticed, it's about impossible to heat something red hot with the oxygen lever held open-you heat the metal red first, then hit the oxygen lever. With a little practice you can burn out a broken bolt and not even hurt the threads in the casting; just run a thread chaser into the hole and replace the bolt.
Super 55 Hydralic Pump
IP: 216.74.205.33 Posted on October 3, 2002 at 10:20:23 AM by RogerM
Is there a rebuild kit available for the Super 55 hydralic pump or do you have to buy a new one? Thanks for a great website!
Re(1): Super 55 Hydralic Pump
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on October 4, 2002 at 06:24:37 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
HG-42 Bullgear final drive
IP: 216.169.66.138 Posted on October 3, 2002 at 00:14:44 AM by Wanda Brown
My dad, Lucky Sampson is looking for the HG-42 Bullgear final drive- gear is 12 1/4 inches in diameter. If anyone knows where I can find one or where to look for one, I would appreciate an e-mail. Thanks!!
Re(1): HG-42 Bullgear final drive
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on October 4, 2002 at 06:19:32 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Landis Zimmerman at zoc@att.net or 717-738-2537. Larry
Super 55
IP: 63.145.137.196 Posted on October 2, 2002 at 08:30:29 PM by Larry
Could you tell me how to set the timing on my Oliver Super 55. I have always had John Deere's and this is new to me. When I tried for the first time to start it , it popped so loud I thought the whole thing blew up. Hope you can help. Thanks.
Re(1): Super 55
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on October 4, 2002 at 06:17:39 AM by Larry Harsin
If you have a timing light, set the timing so that when it is idling slow the light will flash in the area of TDC (Top Dead Center). Then as the engine speeds up to the rated speed the light should flash on a mark that says IGN (ignition). If you don't have an Operator's Manual, get one from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City IA by emailing: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
1550?
IP: 65.129.144.63 Posted on October 2, 2002 at 06:11:58 AM by John
I have a 1550 gas. Only history I know is it had been in a field for 2+ years when I bought it with a bad trans. Fixed and serviced all we could find and now runs great for about 1-2 hours then acts like no fuel. Let it cool will run good again. Temp is low/normal, coil, points and cond. new. Fuel to carb is good when it dies. Any ideas?
Re(1): 1550?
IP: 12.13.248.46 Posted on October 3, 2002 at 10:23:34 AM by Pete in Ks
Sounds like a vapor lock. Check to see if your fuel line is routed near a heat source. Either reroute it or insulate it will cure if thats the problem.
Re(2): 1550?
IP: 155.91.6.71 Posted on October 4, 2002 at 05:09:53 AM by Parker
I had a problem like that with my 1650. It ended up being the original distributer was shot inside.
Re(3): 1550?
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on October 4, 2002 at 06:12:14 AM by Larry Harsin
You could have a wiring harness breaking down or it could be a wire breaking somewhere in the system. Finding a solution to that kind of problem can be a real hair puller. Larry
550 hydraulics
IP: 216.208.56.108 Posted on October 1, 2002 at 07:58:06 PM by Scott
Hi Larry I have a 1959 Oliver 550.When I put something heavy on the 3ph it is constantly moving up and down,once the oil gets hot it will barely lift unless you rev the engine way up.Where should I look first.
Re(1): 550 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on October 1, 2002 at 11:12:52 PM by Larry Harsin
I suspect that the pump is weak. Also you are probably getting leakage around the lift cylinder. Take it apart and reseal it and repair the pump. Larry
2 btm plow
IP: 12.86.95.84 Posted on October 1, 2002 at 02:25:45 PM by Harry
I just bought an Oliver 2-14 plow. Many of the parts begin with EP. It has one lever and a crank. The powr-lift mechanism is not enclosed. The plow is on steel. Where do I look to find what model it is?
Re(1): 2 btm plow
IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on October 1, 2002 at 11:10:37 PM by Larry Harsin
I'm not sure. Email Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. She has catalogs etc. with all this stuff in them. Larry
550 oliver
IP: 141.129.1.113 Posted on October 1, 2002 at 10:50:41 AM by MAT
Hey Larry, My 550 started fine and after a few laps, when I started it back up, it would not shift or move . It starts fine with the clutch in but chokes off if you let it out. Just a ball park guess if you would be so kind. ( can't even pull it with my truck)
Re(1): 550 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.94 Posted on October 1, 2002 at 11:05:21 PM by Larry Harsin
You have something siezed up in the transmission. You will have to take off the lid and have a look. I think you will find that it is siezed in the front end of the transmission where the input shaft comes into the transmission. If so, you will have to take it apart and see what needs to be fixed. Larry
77 Diesel
IP: 216.170.231.176 Posted on September 30, 2002 at 05:55:02 PM by Seth Hendrix
I plan on pulling this tractor next year,and was wanting to know who,or where I can find performence parts. The motor needs a complete overhaul.Thanks Seth
Re(1): 77 Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on September 30, 2002 at 09:25:35 PM by Larry Harsin
I think if I was going to work over a 77, I would put in 1550 pistons and I would put in a S77 or 770 head. The 1550 pistons would be a 3 & 5/8 in. bore. Check out your salvage yards etc. I don't have these parts. You can get the sleeves and piston overhaul package from TTP in Indiana 800-825-7711. They will be cheaper there. Larry Harsin
removing front axle
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on September 29, 2002 at 07:29:44 PM by John
I need to change the front axle of my 550 , it is a single axle. I have bought an older 55 with a double axle can I use it in the 550 if I use the spindles from the 55 as well. Also the pin in the middle of the front axle what is the best way to remove it, if I remove the stud bolt in the pin will the pin drive forward or is it threaded.
Re(1): removing front axle
IP: 207.67.12.125 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 12:43:31 AM by Greg S.
I have a 1961 550 and this is a tough deal. My retaining cap screw had to be drilled out because it was broken off. Then pulling the pin out the front is very difficult. I lost that battle so far. Mine was drilled and tapped so I could use an oversize socket with a bolt passing through as a puller. Stretched a grade 5 and couldn't get it to budge with a grade 8. I gave up because I was just doing a clean-up and repaint. The pin in not tapered either. Very poor design if you ask me. Good luck!!!
Re(1): removing front axle
IP: 207.67.12.125 Posted on October 10, 2002 at 12:43:31 AM by Greg S.
I have a 1961 550 and this is a tough deal. My retaining cap screw had to be drilled out because it was broken off. Then pulling the pin out the front is very difficult. I lost that battle so far. Mine was drilled and tapped so I could use an oversize socket with a bolt passing through as a puller. Stretched a grade 5 and couldn't get it to budge with a grade 8. I gave up because I was just doing a clean-up and repaint. The pin in not tapered either. Very poor design if you ask me. Good luck!!!
oil presure for 550
IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on September 29, 2002 at 03:59:36 PM by John
Thanks for the prompt answer to the year of my 550. what would be the oil presure for that engine at an idle and at maybe 1500 RPM's , not sure whether I need to tear down and start from the bottom or not.My reading said 10 lbs at an idle and 15 at 1500RPM's. Thanks again
Re(1): oil presure for 550
IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on September 29, 2002 at 06:44:00 PM by Larry Harsin
Your oil pressure readings are normal. That engine was designed to run at that low of oil pressure. Larry
OC-46
IP: 63.26.248.215 Posted on September 28, 2002 at 09:31:16 AM by Robert Putman
Other than Zimmermans, is there a place to have tracks for an OC-46 rebuilt? Also where can I find a track wrench for this crawler. Thanks, Bob
Re(1): OC-46
IP: 209.163.7.95 Posted on September 28, 2002 at 08:32:09 PM by Larry Harsin
We don't know where you are. There is Bechthold Tractor Service in Lodi CA. Phone/FAX 209-368-2224. Or you could check with Sparky Duroe at Jessup IA. His email is: cletrac@fsb1879.com. Sparky doesn't rebuild but he may know of someone closer who does. Ask these guys about a wrench also. Zimmerman has the wrenches. Larry
Very hard starting engine.
IP: 63.67.70.104 Posted on September 27, 2002 at 10:53:51 PM by Herbert Steinbacher
I have a 1947 HG42 Dozer with the original Hercules engine. Engine hard to start. Carburetor rebuilt. New magneto points, condenser, spark plug wires and RJ12C spark plugs. Timing marks on mag. and flywheel line up with engine running. When it does start it runs good. If it dies it will not restart until it cools down. Any ideas?
Re(1): Very hard starting engine.
IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on September 28, 2002 at 06:31:46 AM by Larry Harsin
I would give it a valve job. There is probably enough warping on the intake valve to make just enough leakage so that it doesn't pull enough fuel up into the cylinder's so it will start. Larry
oliver 550 special
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on September 27, 2002 at 08:39:31 PM by John McMillen
Hi Could you tell me the year of the 550 special I have purchased; numbers are 45-0224 and 133-182-519.Also what is the difference in a 550 and a 550 Special , the decal on the side has 550 Special. Thanks for what ever info you can give me.
Re(1): oliver 550 special
IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on September 28, 2002 at 06:28:17 AM by Larry Harsin
The year of your 550 Special is 1963. I don't know the difference. They could have made a run of them that had a special feature that made them a little different. Contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. She will probably need the spec. number from your tractor. Larry
cockshutt 60 standard
IP: 66.186.166.43 Posted on September 27, 2002 at 10:15:51 AM by Ron Grother
I recently purchased two cockshutt 60 `s and they have 24" rear rims. I have a chance to purchase another, and am told they have 28 " rims on rear. Did they come with both sizes, or are these the wrong rims ? What is the correct size on front for 60 standard ? Thanks, Ron
Re(1): cockshutt 60 standard
IP: 209.163.7.17 Posted on September 28, 2002 at 06:21:06 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes. Sixty's came with a variety of rim and tire sizes. They also came with 9 x 32's and later with a 7 x 36". Then the Standard's had other measurements. I looked in the Oliver 60 Parts Manual and the size for the front wheel isn't listed. I believe it is a 500 x 15 tire that fits it. Larry
Super 55
IP: 63.147.8.43 Posted on September 26, 2002 at 06:09:09 PM by Larry
Would you have the long grill piece with Oliver longways down the front, it is just the small strip that runs down the center of the grill .
Re(1): Super 55
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on September 26, 2002 at 07:51:32 PM by Larry Harsin
No, I don't have one. Korves Bros. has reproduction ones. Their website is www.korvesoliver.com or korves@htc.net is their email. Larry
1550 oliver
IP: 68.117.192.241 Posted on September 26, 2002 at 04:12:29 AM by john cobb
I am looking at a 1550 to buy, the engine has been replaced with a 1555, (diesel), is the horsepower the same in both engines? Can you tell me the year it was built, ser # 173-460-504? Thanks for your time, great site. john
Re(1): 1550 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on September 26, 2002 at 07:49:17 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, the hp is the same. The tractor was built in 1966. Thanks for the compliment. We enjoy the website, too. Larry
Re(2): 1550 oliver
IP: 68.117.192.241 Posted on September 27, 2002 at 03:38:26 AM by john cobb
Thanks for the quick reply.I learn so much by reading the forums on this great board, thanks for letting me be a student. Have a great day and a better tomorrow.
hood and grill for oc-3
IP: 12.86.7.214 Posted on September 25, 2002 at 09:45:59 PM by Larry Fulton
I am looking for a hood and grill for a oc-3 crawler.
Re(1): hood and grill for oc-3
IP: 209.163.7.40 Posted on September 26, 2002 at 07:46:50 PM by Larry Harsin
Contact Landis Zimmerman at zoc@att.net. Larry
600
IP: 63.87.6.102 Posted on September 25, 2002 at 07:29:10 AM by Vic Shelley
I have looked at a 600. Don't know much about them. Looking for a pasture mower and harrow tractor. Maybe pull a few logs every now and then. Any information would be appreciated
Re(1): 600
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on September 25, 2002 at 12:54:27 AM by Larry Harsin
The 600 was built by David Brown. It was a good reliable utility tractor. I wouldn't want to buy it if it needed much work done on it as parts are scarce and hard to find. There is a fellow in Ontario Canada who imports parts for them. His name is Danny Bowes and his website is: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry
Smoking
IP: 216.95.137.158 Posted on September 24, 2002 at 07:29:13 PM by Richard
Larry: I just finished overhauling a 66 RC. I had the head redone and the crank reground. New bearings on the connecting rod and new rings. I put it all back together and started it. Oil seeped out of #3 spark plug then it started streaming blue smoke out of the stake. What did I do wrong?? I sure appreciate all the help you give from all the other inquires. Just would like to say thank you.
Re(1): Smoking
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on September 25, 2002 at 00:26:32 AM by Larry Harsin
Oil has to get in through either the valve guides or around the piston rings. Are the spark plugs firing on all 4 cylinders? Did you try a new spark plug in that number 3 cylinder? Larry
Pulling Fuel
IP: 216.187.246.106 Posted on September 24, 2002 at 02:17:50 PM by harden
I' VE GOT A 88 OLIVER THAT I'M GOING TO ANTIQUE TRACTOR PULL WITH. WHAT IS THE HIGHEST OCTANE FUEL YOU WOULD USE IN IT.I HEARD THAT 110 & 116 OCTANE COULD DAMAGE THE MOTOR. THANKS, HARDEN
Re(1): Pulling Fuel
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on September 25, 2002 at 00:22:10 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't think they would damage it to use the high octane gas. Put a little Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel by following the directions on the can. That will help lubricate the top cylinder so that it doesn't run too dry. You might also want to consider buying an electronic ignition for your 88. That will be a big help to obtain better performance on that engine. T.H.E. Equip. has these ignitions listed in their catalog. 800-634-4885. Larry
HORSE POWER
IP: 216.187.241.202 Posted on September 24, 2002 at 07:41:26 AM by HARDEN
WHAT WAS THE HORSE POWER ON A 88 AND SUPER 88 OLIVER
Re(1): HORSE POWER
IP: 209.163.7.87 Posted on September 25, 2002 at 00:15:44 AM by Larry Harsin
An 88 had 43 horse. A S88 had 55 horse. Larry
550 oil filter
IP: 199.46.200.237 Posted on September 23, 2002 at 05:58:31 PM by Carmen
What is the correct oil filter for a 59 Oliver 550 with a gas engine, 155 ci. Tks.,
Re(1): 550 oil filter
IP: 209.163.7.82 Posted on September 23, 2002 at 10:29:19 PM by Larry Harsin
100126 ASA is the parts number from AGCO. Larry
maybe buying 1750
IP: 65.26.1.153 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 10:43:32 PM by merrill
Larry, I'm thinking about buying a 1750 diesel. The asking price is $2500. The catch is this; Someone worked on the transmission and did'nt get it back together quite right. The tractor needs to be split so the Shift fork and detent balls can be adjusted. Is this a big deal? How much could I expect to pay for something like that. The guy selling it says that there are no parts involved to speak of; mainly labor. He is my cousin so I know he's not trying to pull a fast one. Also, I've read a lot of bad things about the Waukesha engine. This one was rebuilt about 3000 hours ago. It has to be started with ether. But it also has only one battery and my cousin thinks that might be part of the problem. I would only use this tractor for mowing and other odd jobs, nothing too hard. What would you suggest? Also, is this a fair price? Thanks in advance.
Re(1): maybe buying 1750
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 11:08:20 PM by Larry Harsin
Splitting the tractor is a lot of work. It will take approx. $500-$600 to get the shifting problem fixed. The Waukesha has a poor reputation but it still a good engine. The ones in the 1750 were o.k., however, if it is starting hard and has 3000 hours on it, it is likely in need of an overhaul. I'd say the price is in the ball park. I'd buy it with the idea that it will have to be worked on. You may want to shop around a bit before you buy it. Larry
super 55
IP: 64.209.30.214 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 05:43:57 PM by Darryl Polak
Hi,Does a 66 engine bolt in a super 55 thank you also need price on nice super 77 nf and super 88
Re(1): super 55
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 10:59:43 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it will bolt into a S55. I don't have a S77 at present. I have a 770 NF & a S88 Diesel on the website. If you are interested in them, email me. Larry
cockshutt 1750
IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 09:10:07 AM by Phil
Larry, I purchased the cockshutt 1750 that I have asked you questions on previously. The tractor runs great. I have an I&T manual and fixed my brakes according to your comments. They work great. Everything is good except hydraulics. My question is this. The pump seems a bit noisy, steering very sluggish, tractor has 4000 hr.s. I would like to replace the pump. O'Brians have the vane type and retro kit for about $1150.00. Seems like the way to go, just a bit more than I want to spend right now. Depending on the condition of my pump, are there replacement parts or rebuild kits for my gear pump? Also, how do you visually identify a demand flow devider from the priority version? I really enjoy your website and appreciate your advice and help.
Re(1): cockshutt 1750
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 10:56:41 PM by Larry Harsin
Check your relief valve before you tear into that thing. Look at your manual and see if you have the early style or the late style relief valve. Some of the later 50 series tractors have a newer style by-pass valve (relief valve) that tends to stick and not have the thing developing full pressure. Take the relief valve off the tractor and check and see if it is working properly. You can check with Deitering Bros. Impl. at 515-885-2314 and ask for Bob. Ask Bob about this hydraulic pump and possibly he can help give you a second opinion. Larry
88 Hyd pump
IP: 209.255.91.84 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 00:24:49 AM by Gary
I bought an 88 and the hydrolics didn't work, there's no pump! Know where I can get one?
Re(1): 88 Hyd pump
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on September 22, 2002 at 06:35:40 AM by Larry Harsin
I have one. Email me. Larry
oliver 60
IP: 63.78.67.119 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 08:52:56 PM by Phil Kline
What is the difference between the 120ci engine used in the 60 and the 129ci engine used in the 66. I have been told some parts are interchangeable; is this true?
Re(1): oliver 60
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 10:01:26 PM by Larry Harsin
It is 2 different families of engines. The 60 engine is unique pretty much to itself, where the 66 engine is just a little brother of the 77 with 2 less cylinders. The 60 engine has smaller main bearings. The 66 and 77 has 2.250 Mains and 2 inch rods. The 60 has the same rods but not the mains. That's about all that interchanges. The 60 valves are smaller. The layout is pretty much the same on the 2 families of engines. They are both excellent engines, very durable and trouble free. Larry
Re(2): oliver 60
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 10:05:57 PM by Larry Harsin
The 66 and 77 engines were built heavier and more durable than the 60 engines so they could be used as diesel engines as well as gasoline engines. They had heavier rods, cranks, wrist pins and blocks etc. Larry
Super 77 diesel
IP: 32.101.153.77 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 08:44:30 PM by Kenneth Cohrs
I am looking for a add-on orbit power steering motor or complete add-on power steering unit. I believe we use to us a small Charlyn orbit motor for that purpose. Where would I find one to buy?
Re(1): Super 77 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 09:56:12 PM by Larry Harsin
I might have one. When I have time, I'll check it out. It will be in the neighborhood of $450 plus shipping. I'll email you later. Larry
Super 77 diesel
IP: 32.101.153.77 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 08:41:55 PM by Kenneth Cohrs
Has anyone ever seen adjustable rear wheels on a 1956 Super 77 diesel? I have run across these on a parts tractor and was wondering if that type of wheels was an option or an after-market item?
Re(1): Super 77 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 09:53:13 PM by Larry Harsin
It was an option on the last 2 years of the Supers. Larry
Model 80 Rims/Wheels
IP: 67.218.215.242 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 05:26:04 PM by Bruce Flood
Friend of mine has an "80" with 40" wheels. He'd like to put on smaller diameter wheels. Are there any stock wheel/rims from Oliver, or any other tractor, that would bolt up? Suggestions welcomed and appreciated. Thanks, Bruce
Re(1): Model 80 Rims/Wheels
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 09:46:56 PM by Larry Harsin
Not that I am aware of. Call Arnie Meyer at 507-372-7788 or email him at almeyer@frontiernet.net, he can answer this better than I. Larry
1850 gas
IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 12:40:52 AM by Chip
Im looking at a 1966 1850 gas wf w/cab at a sale. Yesterday they pulled it out and started it for the first time since 1974. What should I look for or be afraid of after that long? It shows 4000+ hours.
Re(1): 1850 gas
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 09:44:00 PM by Larry Harsin
Does it run right? Does it run smooth and act like it would work o.k.? Are all the gears quiet? Are there any bad oil leaks? Does the engine smoke? Check all the oil levels and look at the condition of the fluid in each compartment. Such as dirty oil or discolored with water which would make it look milky. If you purchase this tractor, I would reccommend you change all the fluids including the anti-freeze. Tires are a consideration in the price. Is all the sheet metal and the 3 pt. hitch parts all there? Larry
Oliver Superior Manure Spreader
IP: 65.56.9.81 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 11:57:39 AM by Steve
Larry, I enjoy reading your Q&A everyday, but now I have a question. I have a chance to buy a manure spreader but I havent seen it. The man say's it,s a Oliver Superior, all oringal in good condition, good paint with all decals ledgible. He say,s it also reads 1949 on it. Say,s it,s about 10 ft and ground drive. I can buy it for $300, do you think it,s worth that? Thank,s for your opinion. Steve.
Re(1): Oliver Superior Manure Spreader IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on September 20, 2002 at 09:38:12 PM by Larry Harsin Yes, if it is complete and in good working condition, I think it is worth $300. Larry
88 diesel
IP: 206.176.222.104 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 08:40:50 PM by greg
Hi Larry, I am looking at an 88 diesel, don"t really know what to look for as far as problem areas, I am a gas engine kind of guy. Have heard of head being a potential problem area. What should I be looking at? Thanks.
Re(1): 88 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on September 19, 2002 at 10:32:10 PM by Larry Harsin
The first thing is, does it start good or does it start hard. This is an indicator of condition. After you get it running and let it run for 15 min. or so, when it is setting idling at a fast idle, if blue smoke is coming out of the exhaust stack it is probably an oil burner. Look in the radiator when it is running and warm. When you remove the radiator cap when it is running, if it is frothy or bubbly, this is not a good sign. Probably a cracked head. If the anti-freeze looks crappy, oily or bad, that is not a good sign - it probably has problems. After it is warmed up, check the oil pressure. At a slow idle it should not drop too low. Larry