Oliver RC 88

IP: 64.179.138.127 Posted on November 27, 2006 at 02:56:15 PM by Brad VanMeter

I've got an Oliver row crop 88 I'm starting to restore. The model number plate on it just says RowCrop 88 for model number, when i try to get parts, they ask if its a HC, KD, straight 88. Nowhere on the tractor can i find that info. On my shop manual it doesnt look like there are many differences, the main one being fuel tank size. Can someone tell me how I know what model it is? Serial number is 121208 B. Its a 1948. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver RC 88

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on November 27, 2006 at 08:24:56 PM by J.ULMER

Those differences are the engine type. HC is High Compression, KD is Kerosene/Disstilate, and regular is plain old gasoline with regular compression. Larry or someone else will tell you how to tell on the motors and fuel systems. Have lots of FUN!!

Re(2): Oliver RC 88

IP: 67.2.249.65 Posted on November 27, 2006 at 10:15:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Most of the ones that were KD, have been changed over to burn regular gas. So it is safe to assume that yours is a Fleetline, Row Crop 88 HC. Larry

Oliver Horsepower

IP: 71.241.198.77 Posted on November 26, 2006 at 05:49:55 AM by Gerry Lavery

I have a 1965 880 diesel, I was wondering what the horsepower was? Also what does the 880 stand for?

Re(1): Oliver Horsepower

IP: 67.2.242.16 Posted on November 26, 2006 at 06:06:49 AM by Larry Harsin

It has 60 hp on the PTO. The 880 is the last of the 88 Family. It is just an improved 88 and doesn't have any particular meaning. Larry

oliver baler

IP: 69.71.41.244 Posted on November 23, 2006 at 08:53:31 PM by Bob Elliott

Larry I saw something today that struck my eye. Can you tell me anything about them? It was an Oliver baler, I'd never seen one before. It was numb ered as a 620. When were they made, were they any good? It appeared to be in quite nice shape. Any idea if it has any value? Thanks for any info you can share.

Re(1): oliver baler

IP: 67.2.249.82 Posted on November 23, 2006 at 10:20:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, Oliver built a good little baler. The 620 was built in the 60's. There was a 520, a 620 and a 720. They were built at the Oliver Plant in Shelbyville, IL. I would say it would be worth approx. $500. Larry

Re(3): oliver baler

IP: 216.114.203.38 Posted on November 28, 2006 at 08:11:27 AM by lyle

hi Bob I own 620 that my dad bought new in 65 along with a 1600 gas, the neatest thing about the Oliver balers was the roto-flo feed a little 3 bar rake that would take the hay from the pickup to the plunger man that thing can gobble up the hay. I still use the baler on my little 7 acre hay patch and we live right next to town so I get that same reaction not many knew oliver made balers just some info for you thanks Lyle

Re(4): oliver baler

IP: 70.153.112.61 Posted on November 29, 2006 at 09:29:01 PM by george steadman

we still have the 520 with the bale thrower attachment. I wouldn't take that for ours. Found a good 720 they wanted 2500.00. My dad and uncles had 2 520 and 1 620 and they baled big time hay.

2150 WaterPump

IP: 167.142.10.134 Posted on November 22, 2006 at 07:08:23 PM by Steve Wendel

I have a 2150 Oliver that needs a water pump. How can I make sure I have enough antifreeze in the block to protect it until I get this fixed before spring? I always have had antifreeze in it but lost some when it blew. Does the radiator have to come out to get it out? Who is a good supplier to get new hoses? Thank you for your help.

Re(1): 2150 WaterPump

IP: 67.2.248.211 Posted on November 22, 2006 at 10:37:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Drain a small sample of the antifreeze out and have tested for strength, or otherwise, completely drain the whole system til spring. I'm not sure if the radiator has to come out to get the water pump out. Check with your AGCO Dealer or Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. They will know and they will have needed parts for you. Larry

1850 gas misfiring

IP: 206.131.30.2 Posted on November 21, 2006 at 11:41:20 AM by Jeremy

Larry, I emailed you a couple months ago over hooking up the power beyond on my 1850 oliver gas. Your description was perfect. Thanks a ton. Over the past couple of months I have been struggling with my 1850 gas missing. At idle you can hear the motor miss and if you throw the throttle up it will spit and sputter and will die if I don't back off the throttle. The engine doesn't smoke or any thing, but over all it runs aweful though. Instinctivly it sound like something electrical because of the misfiring. It seems like the more load I put it under, the more it misses. Here is what I have done so far on the tractor and none of it has helped. The compression is even on all cylinders. Rebuilt the carburator, New fuel filter, checked the neck of the sediment bowl, new points, new condensor, new coil, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs. Could it possible be the distributer cap or the switch? The shaft in the distributer doesn't wobble. I know it could be anything, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 gas misfiring

IP: 67.2.249.50 Posted on November 21, 2006 at 10:54:53 PM by Larry Harsin

It is probably a bad distributor cap. If you put on a new dist. cap and it doesn't help, you may have a push rod jumped out of it's socket in the valve train. I have seen this. Larry

Re(2): 1850 gas misfiring

IP: 67.142.130.26 Posted on November 22, 2006 at 07:34:25 AM by Jason Epperson

Here is just a thought but did you replace the diaphragm in the carburetor when you rebuilt it?

950 Oliver exhaust manifold

IP: 65.131.171.161 Posted on November 20, 2006 at 10:52:21 PM by Rae Norman

Would you please let me know if this manifold will fit a S-88, 880 and 1800? Many Thanks RN

sted on November 21, 2006 at 10:47:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. If you are talking about a 950 gas, I think it might interchange with a 1100 Massey. Otherwise, I think it is unique to itself. Larry

1365

IP: 4.252.7.62 Posted on November 21, 2006 at 08:18:08 AM by Robert Jones

Larry,another ?,I now have a 51 8n with some implements,am going to trade for the 1365 with same larger implements, And will give 1000.00 to boot,what do you think of this deal?

Re(1): 1365

IP: 67.2.249.50 Posted on November 21, 2006 at 10:51:14 PM by Larry Harsin

If the 1365 is a good tractor and is good mechanically, I'd say it's o.k. But here is the down side of this deal, it's going to be called "Parts Availability". Fiat parts are not nearly as available as Ford parts. Larry

1365

IP: 4.252.7.62 Posted on November 20, 2006 at 03:08:27 PM by Robert Jones

bought a 1365 today,hope i made a good purchase,are parts easy to come by? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 1365

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on November 20, 2006 at 10:07:15 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1365 was built in Italy, by Fiat. Ag Parts First carries some parts for it. 866-264-9720. Parts for the Fiat Olivers aren't as easily found as they are for U.S. Olivers.

1800 diesel series C

IP: 69.66.131.8 Posted on November 19, 2006 at 08:17:38 AM by Ed Schulte

I bought this tractor and is missing a serial tag, it is a oliver 1800 c series wheatland was in too nice of org cond to pass it up. any help on what to do Thanks Ed

Re(1): 1800 diesel series C

IP: 67.2.249.8 Posted on November 19, 2006 at 08:28:22 PM by Larry Harsin

The "C" series 1800 was built only in 1964. It is a very low production tractor. The first "C" serial number is 136501. The last one we have listed is 140893. Look on the top of the cylinder head in the area of the thermostat and see if you can find a build date. Those engines were stamped when they were made at Waukesha and that would be close to the tractor build date. It's a Wheatland tractor and that says it probably went out west. When you get the build date, contact the Museum in Charles City and perhaps they can give you a serial number range. Tell them it was a Wheatland etc. Then you will just have to choose one, I guess. There is a place in Mason City IA that makes reproduction tags to replace worn tags. It is: D & D, 641-424-2535. Larry

1950-t head

IP: 72.23.83.223 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 06:14:38 PM by brian

larry from talking with you before i have said someone put a 1750 crank into the 1950-t motor i have. i have the serial # from the head and was woundering if it to was a 1750 head or a 1950-t. the number i have is 222-203

Re(1): 1950-t head

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on November 19, 2006 at 00:01:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The 222-203 is the Waukesha number for that head. The 2 tractors that you mention, could have used the same crankshaft, therefore making it original to your 1950T motor. All of the Waukesha 310 engines used the same crankshaft. Larry

Re(2): 1950-t head

IP: 72.23.83.223 Posted on November 21, 2006 at 06:26:09 PM by brian

yes all the 310 did use the same crank but the 1750 used the same block almost identical head but the crank and pistons are different. the stroke is different. if i remeber right it is a 283ci engine

Re(3): 1950-t head

IP: 67.2.249.50 Posted on November 21, 2006 at 10:44:52 PM by Larry Harsin

A 1750 gas is a 283ci engine and has it's own crankshaft. But all of the 1750 diesels used the 310 engine with a different crankshaft. This same crank shaft is used on all of the 310 engines - 1750, 1755, 1850 gas, 1855, 1950T and the 1955. Larry

Fiat-Oliver 1450 Water pump seal

IP: 72.69.94.245 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 11:52:34 AM by Carl Herrington

I have a Fiat-Oliver 1450 (1455?) tractor with a bad water pump. It appears that the only part that I need is the seal. Where can I find this part? Are there any affordable rebuilt waterpumps out there?

Re(1): Fiat-Oliver 1450 Water pump seal

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 11:57:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry

1555 Serial #

IP: 63.135.142.192 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 09:53:13 AM by schimko

One more question for you. This one has me really puzzled. I have a 1555 gas with the mdel number 655 - 21166 and the serial number is 262 - 664 - 504. In all of my books i can not line up any of those numbers into the 1555 serial #'s. I can however line up the 262-664 into the 1975 year of the 1655 as being one of the last 700 tractors built. I dont know if it would help but i dont have any numbers off the engine. It is currentley having a 2 pt arm welded back on. I could get them when i get the tractor back if you need them. Can you please shed some light on my serial # dilemma?

Re(1): 1555 Serial #

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 11:55:00 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a 1975 1555. The beginning serial number for 1975 is 256-165. Yours would be after this in the last year of production. The serial numbers for the 1655 are a completely different listing. Larry

88 Gears

IP: 63.135.142.192 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 09:43:01 AM by schimko

I have a 1949 88 Diesel and a 1953 88 Gas both narrow fronts both have 15.5 x 38 tires on them. Both weigh within 50# of each other. The diesel has C88C stamped on the serial plate and the gas doesn't have any gear numbers stamped on it any reason why it don't? In all of my information it says that the C88C stands for special low speed gears, but it does almost 20mph. On the other hand the gas only does about 12mph. Did someone maybe swap gears in either of them? Any info would be appreciated Thanks.

Re(1): 88 Gears

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 11:48:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Some of them were made without the marks on the tags. Also, yours could have been changed to a different gear set. Larry

Oliver 77 Final Drive

IP: 63.135.142.192 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 09:35:50 AM by schimko

I was told to change the oil in transmission/final drive in my 1950 77 Row Crop. To drain it is it the 2 plugs on the bottom of the tractor? What would you reccomend for the weight of the oil? 80W-90?? Also about how much does it take to fill it up? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 77 Final Drive

IP: 67.2.249.200 Posted on November 18, 2006 at 11:45:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Those are the 2 plugs to drain it. I would replace it with 85-140. It will take approx. 5 gal for the transmission and final drive together. Larry

1555 engine clutch

IP: 207.103.47.158 Posted on November 17, 2006 at 06:32:17 AM by Steve Moyer

Clutch seems to be slipping when drilling wheat (ex.) Would like to know correct procedure to diagnois if is engine clutch or plates in Hydrapower- (direct/under) that is the problem. don't want to replace engine clutch if the hydra-power is the problem - Thanks

Re(1): 1555 engine clutch

IP: 67.2.248.230 Posted on November 17, 2006 at 08:09:13 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to shift to a higher transmission gear and try to match the travel speed with the hydra-power in the low side and then see if the engine slips. That should tell you if it is the engine clutch or the hydra-power. Larry

Perkins crank

IP: 64.251.158.68 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 08:20:40 PM by Loren Unger

Hi Larry. We have 1985 110 White. It has a howling sound when the clutch is depressed at higher r.p.m.'s. It does have end play in the crank, actually quite a bit, between one eighth inch to one quarter inch, roughly. I've been told that this tractor may have a chrome crankshaft and cannot be repaired it has to de replaced. Value-built advertises a trust bearing for the Perkins motors was wondering if you could give me some info on this situation? After a certain serial number did Perkins use a different crank? If curious, the clutch,pilot bearing, and throw out bearing have been replaced because of this noise. That didn't fix the problem. Would like your input. Thanks.

Re(1): Perkins crank

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 09:28:58 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to get the end play corrected. There is something rubbing someplace. That noise will stop when you correct this. It needs to be done immediately! With that much endplay, the connecting rods are going to make the pistons bind in the block and that will destroy the engine! I don't know if the crank is repairable or not. Your machine shop can tell you that. It will take new thrust bearings. Larry

Re(2): Perkins crank

IP: 209.50.31.233 Posted on November 15, 2006 at 11:48:32 PM by B A Star

The crankshafts used in the 2-85 & 2-105 were treated with a process known as Nitriding. It was a surface harding, thus if the crankshaft journals were ground undersize you lost the hardness. The company did not supply undersize bearings for those engines. Undersize bearings in .010", .020" & .030" are available for the engine used in the 2-110. The thurst bearing is a multiple piece with the thurst seperate. Sounds like one of them has failed. You may have to reclaim the crankcase with machine work. Like Larry said don't run it anymore.

Oliver 88

IP: 69.219.65.242 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 09:51:12 AM by Holly

We just purchased an Oliver 88 supposely with an Oliver 1850 block installed on it. There were 3 different numbers on the cast of the block. First# was 221320, Second# 158544A, and Third# 955. Can you tell me what these numbers mean? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 09:21:55 PM by Larry Harsin

The first number 221320 is a Waukesha number. The 2nd. is the Oliver part number. I don't know what the 3rd means. The 221320 is the family of engines it is from, so it probably is an 1850 block. The 88 would have 190 as the beginning of the six digits. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88

IP: 209.50.31.233 Posted on November 15, 2006 at 11:34:31 PM by B A Star

Your crankcase was used in the 1650 gas & early diesel (w/lanova cell) also in the 1750 & 1850 gas tractors. 955 number is the date the casting was poured in Charles City or probably Septemeber 5, 1965.

Paint codes

IP: 63.151.152.102 Posted on November 12, 2006 at 06:34:13 PM by toby cooley

I have two questions. First what are the paints codes for an oliver 88? Second how tall of a door would i need for an 1855 with a cab or canopy.

Re(1): Paint codes

IP: 67.2.248.235 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 07:18:56 AM by Larry Harsin

For the years before 1951, they used Martin Senour Green 99L-8746. The wheels were Red 99L-3752 and the grills were Yellow 99L-11611. The 1951 tractors, on up, used the Meadow Green 99L-3751 and Clover White. All of these are Martin Senour colors and can be matched by a paint dealer. I like to get Meadow Green and Clover White from an AGCO Dealer. It is the correct color, good paint and it is cheaper. I would think a 10' high door would work for you 1855 with a cab. Larry

77 Motor Compression

IP: 4.188.208.44 Posted on November 12, 2006 at 03:23:24 PM by Jason

What should a fleetline 77 gas have for compression?

Re(1): 77 Motor Compression

IP: 67.2.248.235 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 07:06:17 AM by Larry Harsin

It should have 100 - 120 psi. Larry

2-70 White hydr. pan

IP: 64.33.206.246 Posted on November 12, 2006 at 01:25:04 PM by Carl

Larry, What is the proper way to put the hydraulic pan and casting back together. I tried laying the pan down on the tranny housing with the gasket under. Then put the top gasket on the pan. I set the dowel pegs in the holes and then set the whole casting down on top of the oil pan. Would it be better to pound the dowel pegs in with the pan attached to the casting and then lower these two down as a unit? I seem to have a lot of leaking the way I did it.

Re(1): 2-70 White hydr. pan

IP: 4.249.204.196 Posted on November 13, 2006 at 11:47:33 AM by Larry from md

The holes in the pan are small so when the pins are in they hold the pan to the casting.So you instal the pan with a gasket to the bottem of the casting first. Use a good sealer. The lower gasket can just be greased and layed on the rear before lowering the unit.

Re(2): 2-70 White hydr. pan

IP: 64.33.203.174 Posted on November 13, 2006 at 09:42:52 PM by Carl

Thanks! It looks like that is the right way to do it. No leaks now!

Re(3): 2-70 White hydr. pan

IP: 67.2.248.235 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 07:04:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I have done it both ways and I agree with Larry from md. That is the way to do it. Larry

side tins

IP: 4.188.215.209 Posted on November 11, 2006 at 11:38:07 PM by Allen

I was checking to see if the rear side tins are the same on a fleetline and a super?

Re(1): side tins

IP: 67.2.248.235 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 07:20:07 AM by Larry Harsin

They are. Larry

service manuals

IP: 4.188.208.203 Posted on November 10, 2006 at 09:49:48 PM by Allan

I was wondering if you knew how the I&T manuals are for oliver, or if you knew where a good place was to get one that covers alot of info. on the fleetline, super and three digit tractors.

Re(1): service manuals

IP: 67.2.249.150 Posted on November 10, 2006 at 10:15:49 PM by Larry Harsin

The regular Oliver Shop Manual is better than the I&T, but they cost more money. You can get Operator's Manuals, Shop Manuals and Parts Manuals for these tractors, from the Museum in Charles City. The Oliver Shop Manual will cover all three of those tractors - the fleetline, the super and the three digit tractors. This is one of the reasons they are more expensive. You can email the Museum at: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

1960 1800

IP: 66.249.37.122 Posted on November 10, 2006 at 08:30:21 PM by Jim

1800A gas with a bad engine. What else will fit with little or no modifications? I'm sure B or C but how about 880 or 1750 or 1850? Super 88?

Re(1): 1960 1800

IP: 66.249.37.122 Posted on November 10, 2006 at 08:36:21 PM by jim

Forgot to mention this tractor has the Hydra-power added to it.

Re(2): 1960 1800

IP: 67.2.249.15 Posted on November 11, 2006 at 06:12:30 PM by Larry Harsin

A 1750 gas or an 1850 gas engine will fit right in. The 1750 gas would be my first choice. Larry

1960 1800

IP: 152.163.101.11 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 09:50:08 PM by Jackie

Have a 1850 Olver Bracket won't fit the steering box because the balancer sticks out to far. What could be wrong?

Re(1): 1960 1800

IP: 67.2.249.62 Posted on November 15, 2006 at 10:22:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe I just answered this on email. We think the balancer is wobbling and maybe broke the bolt on the bracket. You should have this checked out by an experienced mechanic. Larry

Oliver 550 power steering cylinders

IP: 70.187.30.152 Posted on November 10, 2006 at 08:20:46 PM by Larry Kruse

I have two powersteering cylinders on my 550 that need to be rebuilt. Since they are double walled cylinders, 1. Who is available to rebuilt them? 2. Is there a set of instructions on how to rebuild them?

Re(1): Oliver 550 power steering cylinders

IP: 67.2.249.15 Posted on November 11, 2006 at 06:07:51 PM by Larry Harsin

There really isn't much rebuild to them, and it is quite expensive. There is Storm Lake Hydraulics that MIGHT be able to repair them, 800-272-2856. I don't believe there are instructions. There is a little seal on the piston rod, that sometimes needs to be replaced, but you can't go inside of the cylinder and put new seals. Larry

Water pump RC 70

IP: 71.223.125.63 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 03:36:36 PM by Roger

Hello Larry, Is the water pump on a 1937 Hart Parr Row crop 70 the same as a 1946 oliver row crop 70? Thanks

Re(1): Water pump RC 70

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 11:28:57 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They are not the same. They won't interchange, they are similar, but they are made different. Larry

you're an oliver genius

IP: 71.34.166.209 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 02:42:13 PM by Scot

you're not just an oliver mechanic, you're a certified tractor whisper'er.. (if they can horse whisper ers, why not tractor whisper'ers ?) I've been reading your posts, and you're the most genuine fella i've ever seen. you should run for president ! i'm sorry to take up your time, but i can't get over how nice you are to share what appears to be unlimited knowledge of all things Olie green. i wish i would have stumbled onto your site sooner. it's like watching old tv shows. i can't wait to see your next answer ! God Bless you and yours !!

Re(1): you're an oliver genius

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 11:27:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Thanks, Scot!! You made my day. Larry

Re(2): you're an oliver genius

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on November 10, 2006 at 01:37:00 AM by J. Ulmer

I wish I'd been so eloquent, but as ya'll have prabably figgered out over the past few years, "Ditto from West Texas!!!" Maybe that will take care of tomorrow!! Jerry

super 55 or 550

IP: 71.34.166.209 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 01:52:58 PM by Scot

1955 super 55 and a 550, is there much difference between them ?? I didn't realize they were made the same year. Do you believe an AGCO dealer would have done a good overhaul job on a super ? And how much would a 550 overhaul run ? thank you

Re(1): super 55 or 550

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 11:24:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The first 550 was built in the fall of 1958. The 550 is an improved version of the S55. It was mostly cosmetic differences. Later production 550's had larger engines and improvements in the power steering. I'm sure an AGCO dealership could fix a 550. A basic in-frame overhaul with labor included, would probably be in the neighborhood of $1000. That is hard to say. Larry

biodiesel

IP: 63.245.175.223 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 01:30:07 PM by K L Filkins

is it advisable to use biodiesel in an 1365 oliver fiat? thank you

Re(1): biodiesel

IP: 67.2.242.100 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 06:18:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it would work fine. Larry

1800 B pump timing

IP: 74.38.164.178 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 10:52:12 PM by Jeff Oliver

Got my tractor back from the shop and while I had the starter off getting the clutch unstuck I checked the pump timing. They had it set for a A series at 8 BTDC instead of 2 like the book says for a B series. My problem is that I can't get it times at exactly 2 because the back of the pump hits the engine block. I can't get it to about 3 BTDC before it hits. What would be a cause of this? Could the engine timing be off by say one tooth on the front" Also if this is the problem could that be a cause of fuel in the oil? Haven't run it long enough to see if I am still getting that but want to have an idea of where to look if it does still do that.

Re(1): 1800 B pump timing

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 00:09:46 AM by Larry Harsin

If you want to get it on 2 degrees, you will have to remove the timing cover and change the bolts in the drive hub on the pump. However, if it starts and runs o.k. where it is, I wouldn't change it. The timing changes shouldn't affect the amount of fuel in your oil. Larry

Injection Pump Timing

IP: 12.226.236.204 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 10:20:03 PM by oliver12

I am having some troubles trying to time the injection pump on a '54 Super 88 Diesel. It is the round head style Bosch pump. I have a shop manual and parts manual, but my question concerns the drive hub that attaches to the splined shaft. On the drive hub, it has the round part with all the different threaded holes for the gear to bolt to and the drive hub has the flat piece on the back of it that goes agaisnt the bearing retaining plate. Is the timing mark located on that flat piece and should that flat piece be attached solid to the rest of the drive hub. Mine is not attached to the drive hub and I am having trouble finding the timing mark.

Re(1): Injection Pump Timing

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 00:04:01 AM by Larry Harsin

That flat piece with the timing mark should be attached to the hub. If it isn't, you will have to get a different hub. I have seen those like you are describing, with that problem. Talk to your "pump service station" about that. Or you can contact Central Fuel Injection and ask for Bill 712-362-4200. Larry

Oliver cultivators

IP: 74.241.173.219 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 04:27:02 PM by jerrad

I would how you find the model number on pipe mounted cultivators.

Re(1): Oliver cultivators

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 11:57:13 PM by Larry Harsin

They don't have number tags on them. They are called Quick Detachable Series. Larry

550 (gasoline) compression test

IP: 66.162.187.17 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 02:05:17 PM by Andy

I have a 1963 Oliver 550 with a gasoline engine - what PSI should I get when I do a compression test? From what I can see in my shop manual, the only thing on compression is that it should be about 7.3:1. I'd have to check my notes, but I believe my buddy read 120 psi (+/- 5psi) at each of the cylinders.

Re(1): 550 (gasoline) compression test

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 11:53:34 PM by Larry Harsin

The 120 psi, like you say, sounds about right. The 7.3:1 is the compression ratio. (7.3 to 1 parts vol. of air being compressed). Larry

Re(2): 550 (gasoline) compression test

IP: 66.162.187.17 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 09:11:44 AM by Andy

On an unrelated question, what would think about using an Oliver 550 with a 5-foot pto-driven rototiller? Another implement I would like to get would be a 6-foot wide flail mower (as you know, they are heavy). Mark Korves thinks of you as a good go-to resource, and both times you have come through for me. I'm kicking myself that I was too busy to get to the big Oliver gathering in Dover, Ohio this year. I would have benefitted from that.

Re(3): 550 (gasoline) compression test

IP: 67.2.242.100 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 06:22:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I would think the 550 would be able to handle these implements, but before I just went out and bought them, I would try them out and see how it worked. The 550 is a tough little tractor, but you might be getting into implements that require more lift capacity. Larry

Re(4): 550 (gasoline) compression test

IP: 4.249.105.136 Posted on November 9, 2006 at 06:01:18 PM by Larry from md

I used to use a 6 foot flail on my s55.Lifting was not a problem.They are heavy,but the weight is close to the rear wheels. If the grass was short you could move along pretty good,in taller grass it was a real power hog and i would have to dive in 1st or 2nd.

1650 top link

IP: 205.237.160.56 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 09:32:03 PM by Chris Blome

I broke the top link of the 3-point on my 1650. I can't find a new one anywhere on the internet. I was wondering if you had any idea where I could find one. thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1650 top link

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 10:36:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

550 pto

IP: 24.74.46.38 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 08:17:40 PM by neil

Pto works fine, but there is no effort to put in gear or go over center to stay in place. lever just flops around.tried adjusting per say manual but no change at all. Everything in acess hole looks exactly like it's suppose to be. Thanks

Re(1): 550 pto

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 10:34:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It has to "snap" over center to keep it engaged or else the clutch is going to slip and it will ruin the plates. If you can't adjust it through the bottom, you are going to have to split the tractor to see what is wrong with it. Larry

2-70 white hydraulics

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 09:26:20 AM by Carl

Where is the relief valve for the hydraulic system located on a 2-70?

Re(1): 2-70 white hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 10:32:17 PM by Larry Harsin

It is on the right hand front of the hydraulic unit, behind the filter(on the right side). Larry

77 motor

IP: 170.215.15.208 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 08:40:15 AM by Allen

I don't know much about olivers and I am thinking of buying one,what size motor would be in a 1951 gas 77?

Re(1): 77 motor

IP: 67.2.242.106 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 10:30:52 PM by Larry Harsin

It is an Oliver/Waukesha engine. Most of them have a 3.5" bore, giving them 216 cu. in. They were originally approx. 200 cu. in. with a 3 5/16 bore. Larry

running problems

IP: 207.194.78.179 Posted on November 5, 2006 at 09:47:24 PM by deerek K

Hi Larry. My JD M is giving me grief. Always runs, and runs well. 1/4 turn of flywheel and bang, its off and smooth. Not now. Takes a few cranks to get it started, it does start and level off smooth but in about 15-30 seconds at idle it dies. I some times can catch it with choke but not usually. If I crank the throttle to full, it can keep running but it dips and dies, and eventually quits. I cant run full throttle anyway. New clean gas, new fuel line, new straining elbo to carb, new professionally installed carb kit 6 months ago. I tore down the carb (Marvel Schrebler, same as on a Super 55) today and cleaned and reinstalled it and the same thing still happens. RUns, dies. Restarts, runs, dies. Restarts, runs and dies. Carb is clean. Fuel is clean. Fuel runs out in a consistant stream with the strainer open. Lots of fuel. I havn't gone to plugs yet. Never done anything to points before but is that a potential? File them shiny? Manual suggests points. What about ignition, like coils or something.

Re(1): running problems

IP: 67.2.249.234 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 06:36:22 AM by Larry Harsin

There can be all sorts of electrical problems. It could be in the ignition switch, or in a wire from the switch to the coil, or it could be the electrical things that you mention. The first thing I'd do, is check out the points and then work by trial and elimination from that point. Larry

Re(2): running problems

IP: 74.38.164.178 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 10:44:51 PM by Jeff Oliver

Check the points first and then the switch. I have had two of them be bad in the last 6 months. When you have the tractor running wiggle the switch and see what happens. Also might check to see if the carb float level is right. Even professionals make a mistake now and then.

Air in hydraulics

IP: 65.110.175.156 Posted on November 4, 2006 at 09:20:47 AM by Rod Gregory

I have an Oliver 1755 with a Koyker K5 loader. When I try and use the hydraulics, there is a really bad grinding noice and when I check the dip stick, there is air bubbles. Can you tell me what might be wrong?

Re(1): Air in hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on November 4, 2006 at 06:16:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I would try to tighten up the hose clamps on the suction side of the pump, where the filter is. Tighten up all of those fittings, etc. You probably have an air leak there somewhere. Larry

Re(2): Air in hydraulics

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on November 5, 2006 at 11:58:59 AM by J. Ulmer

You should also check to be sure your filter is not restricted (dirt, water, mold/fungus/grunge) which would cavitate your pump from excess restriction as well as facilitate sucking air in.

Re(3): Air in hydraulics

IP: 65.110.175.156 Posted on November 12, 2006 at 06:52:42 PM by Rod Gregory

I finally had time to work on the tractor. I found a couple of lines coming out of the hydraulic oil cooler that were cracked and I replaced them. I also drained and refilled the hydraulic fluid. I still have a loud grinding noise that won't go away. Previously, I could put the loader on the ground and pick up the front end with ease. Now, I don't have enough power to pick it up. Any other suggestions?

Re(4): Air in hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.235 Posted on November 14, 2006 at 07:26:46 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have a grinding noise in that thing, remove the hydraulic pump and check it out. You will probably have to replace it. Larry

flywheel on row crop 88

IP: 69.66.29.90 Posted on November 2, 2006 at 10:54:49 AM by cody

I do not have a book for this tractor I am overhauling this rig for a customer I am looking for information on timming of engine oil pump and how to remove flywheel, I would like to know if flywheel is timed to crankshaft and if it is how to tell it because I have no markings on the flywheel. I would also like to know how to time engine, surely you use a timming light but need to know what the degree mark is

Re(1): flywheel on row crop 88

IP: 4.249.105.31 Posted on November 2, 2006 at 06:05:00 PM by Larry from md

The bolts will only let you bolt up the flywheel one way.You don't have to time the oil pump.The timeing marks are seen through the small hole that looks at the forward side of the flywheel. the marks are there.

Re(2): flywheel on row crop 88

IP: 67.2.249.1 Posted on November 3, 2006 at 10:01:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I always punch mark the flywheel and the dowel that it fits on before I remove them. Larry from MD is correct in saying the flyweel only fits correctly one way. I try to install the oil pump so that it will be as it was assembled when the tractor was built. This being, when the engine is on TDC number one cylinder, the rotor on the distributor points at number one cylinder. About the ignition timing, I have the timing mark in the timing hole for the flywheel at approx. 2 degrees before TDC. Then I loosen the clamping bolts for the distributor and move the distributor until a spark occurs out of number 1 plug wire, then I retighten the distrib. bolts at that position. This is static timing at approx. 2 degrees before TDC. If your advance mechanism is working, at full throttle, the timing should come in at 18 - 20 degrees before TDC. You should get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Diesel Injection

IP: 69.251.72.42 Posted on November 2, 2006 at 00:45:56 AM by Justin

Hello, I have a 1952 Oliver 88 Row Crop Diesel not running right now. I have a chance to get a fuel injection pump that came off a 77 diesel, am I able to use this, are the 77 and 88 pumps the same or different? And,also I'd like to get a little more power out of my tractor are there any tips/tricks that I might be able to do, maybe a head swap or something?

Re(1): Diesel Injection

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on November 2, 2006 at 10:11:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The pumps are identical. You'll probably have to change the smoke screw setting a little because of the 88 engine being larger, but try it as is first. Just have the engine in good condititon and have everything set according to the specs for the engine and go from there. You may be able to change the timing slightly to increase power, but you will have to use a dyno to do it. Make sure the valves are adjusted properly and the air cleaner and the intake system is all clean and in good condition. Larry

1555 gas ,spark plug removal

IP: 136.234.224.124 Posted on October 30, 2006 at 10:37:41 AM by Bryan Ebbenga

On my 1555 gas, the breather tube covers the #6 (or is it #1) sparkplug. How should I remove it or move it out of the way to change plug. The coil bracket is also attached to the fixture that holds the breather tube. I seem to have a miss on that plug til engine warms up. Also the valve seems noisy on that cylinder til it warms up. This is also a Cold blooded tractor. What plug might you also recommend. I am not much of a mechanic. Will also be asking question n loader. Thanks,

Re(1): 1555 gas ,spark plug removal

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on October 30, 2006 at 09:40:54 PM by Larry Harsin

It's the #6 plug. You have to unbolt the breather tube to change the plug. Many times the spark plug wire shorts out to that tube. You'll have to put a rubber insulating "boot" on that spark plug wire. I'd use the plug the next heat range hotter than what you have in there. If it is a Champion or AC or whatever, just go to the next range plug. Your Operator's Manual will explain this. Take your old plug with you and the parts person will explain what plug you need. Larry

Super 88 Diesel

IP: 207.118.235.138 Posted on October 29, 2006 at 04:27:18 PM by Kelly Karpp

When I start the tractor it smokes heavley with a white / gray smoke, (very heavy)as enguine warmes up the smoke somewhat decreases. the injector pump was serviced and the injectors were removed and bench tested for trip point and spray pattern. the tractor seams to have plenty of power when under load. any ideas??

Re(1): Super 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.10 Posted on October 30, 2006 at 05:49:27 AM by Larry Harsin

If the energy cells havn't been checked, I would check them. Also, without knowing the history of the engine, I would question how good the compression is when the engine is cold. If the energy cells check out o.k., I would think you probably have a tired engine. Larry

Re(2): Super 88 Diesel

IP: 69.179.57.99 Posted on October 30, 2006 at 06:01:37 PM by Kelly Karpp

Thanks Larry: A little history, when we bought this tractor the prevous owner had installed new rings however did not pay attenion to the ring gap. the tractor would run only a short time then seize up. We removed and adjusted for proper ring gap. now the tractor will run without seizing. The valves have been ground and re-seated. We will do a compression test. Could we have a timing problem?

Re(3): Super 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on October 30, 2006 at 09:34:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It's possible. When it burns white like that and then clears when it warms up, it indicates a tired engine. If you had a timing problem, you would have a lack of power. Larry

Re(4): Super 88 Diesel

IP: 75.21.175.113 Posted on November 6, 2006 at 10:04:58 AM by Kelly Karpp

Thanks Larry for your response, I have removed the Energy Cells from all cylinders. I have noted the end of # 0116779A that faces the cylinder has a slight dip instead of being flat machined end. The hole threw that piece is open with a slight carbon covering, the actual cell halves appear to have been sealed but again slightly carbon covered. What is the torque spec for the cap when reinstalling the energy cell. What would we expect to have for compression on this 1952 engine. Maybe the better question would be what is the compression spec for this 1952 engine.

Re(5): Super 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on November 8, 2006 at 00:16:41 AM by Larry Harsin I really don't have specs for compression on that engine. I go more by how well they start and run and how much "blow by" comes out of the engine when you are pulling it and the color of the exhaust when it is running. I would tighten up the energy caps to 75 - 80 lbs. (just good and tight). Larry

880 pto

IP: 207.69.136.204 Posted on October 27, 2006 at 10:19:49 PM by Ryan Bateman

My 880 pto never wants to stay engaged my grandfather and I have tried to adjust it but do not seem to have any luck, I know if you hold it in gear it is a big pain and it will also destroy it. any help would be great

Re(1): 880 pto

IP: 67.2.248.186 Posted on October 28, 2006 at 05:33:39 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to take it apart. There must be a pin missing or some linkage broken in that spider in there. Larry

1365 oliver

IP: 63.245.175.223 Posted on October 27, 2006 at 02:10:21 PM by kenneth filkins

changed fuel filters and bled both and also both screws on injector pump. cracked fuel lines at injectors am not getting fuel to injectors, won't start could i have an air lock some where? thanks for any help

Re(1): 1365 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.43 Posted on October 27, 2006 at 09:48:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Apparently, you do. Start at the fuel tank and work down through the system to see where it is. Larry

1939 70 row crop

IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on October 26, 2006 at 10:15:15 AM by Jim Patton in texas

Larry, I was a JD man until I got two 39 70s ,one on rubber one on steel. nice tractor on steel. I want to complety restore , is the 6cyl. in my 70 the same as any other oliver 6cyl.as far as pistons rings etc. I see a lot of engine parts but none specify my motor ,who built these motors ? serial#227462 - 225043 . Just came across your site , think its great.

Re(1): 1939 70 row crop

IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on October 26, 2006 at 09:40:03 PM by Larry Harsin

No. The 70's used an engine built by Continental. The Continental engines in the 70's are nearly all the same, especially from 1938 on. Most of the other 6 cyl. engines are Oliver designed and Waukesha built. Beginning in the mid-50's some of the larger Oliver tractors used engines built by GM or Detroit Diesel. Some of the other manufacturers were Perkins and White, after White became involved with Oliver. There were some that were White-Hercules also at that time. Larry

Re(2): 1939 70 row crop

IP: 64.12.116.70 Posted on October 27, 2006 at 01:20:04 PM by Jim Patton

Larry where can I find overhaul parts for 1939 70

Re(3): 1939 70 row crop

IP: 67.2.249.43 Posted on October 27, 2006 at 09:47:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

cockshutt 1355

IP: 198.164.30.51 Posted on October 24, 2006 at 03:07:49 PM by Patric Fry

Hi , I have just bought a cockshutt 1355 diesel tractor. From what I can gather it is a Fiat but is was sold by Oliver here in Canada. Where do I find an owners manual and other specs on this model?

Re(1): cockshutt 1355

IP: 67.2.249.28 Posted on October 25, 2006 at 06:18:00 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual and other information from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. You should find a spec number with the serial number, located on the lower left side of the instrument panel. The Museum would probably like to have this number. Larry

Tire size

IP: 170.215.187.180 Posted on October 23, 2006 at 08:34:06 AM by Jerry Belcher

Where can I fine information on the orginal size rear tires that was sold on a 1951 Oliver 66.

Re(1): Tire size

IP: 67.2.248.138 Posted on October 23, 2006 at 10:33:51 PM by Larry Harsin

On a 66RC, it would have been a 10x38. I don't know what a 66 Standard had. Larry

Re(2): Tire size

IP: 170.215.188.75 Posted on October 24, 2006 at 09:41:00 AM by Jerry Belcher

Thank you very much, it was the information I was needing. Jerry

Hydraulics

IP: 204.73.103.253 Posted on October 21, 2006 at 07:47:49 PM by Dylan

I have a 1755 Oliver over under hydraulic shift and it is causing some trouble. WHen you are using the PTO sometimes the entire hydraulic system quits working so we lose steering, brakes, PTO, and lift mechanisms We looked and couldn't figure it out was hoping you might have an idea

Re(1): Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on October 21, 2006 at 09:55:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I wonder if, when the PTO is under load, possibly the splines in the drive shaft that runs the PTO, are slipping. (Possibly the splines in the drive hub in the engine are getting worn so that the drive shaft is slipping on the drive hub so that you lose everything.) Larry

rocker arms

IP: 216.222.170.38 Posted on October 20, 2006 at 03:39:56 PM by savin sundstrom

Larry I asked you awhile back if rocker arms from a 1750 would fit a 1650 but I didn't specify diesel or gas. I need to know for gas.

Re(1): rocker arms

IP: 67.2.249.3 Posted on October 21, 2006 at 07:02:47 AM by Larry Harsin

According to my info, the rocker arms are the same on both tractors and would interchange. However, the rocker arm shafts are different. So you would have to use the shafts that are in the engine. Larry

Oem Relacement

IP: 208.252.179.24 Posted on October 19, 2006 at 02:33:01 PM by Kevin

My Buddy told me that an 1800a Diesel is a replacement in an super 88 diesel, Is this true? Will they even fit?

Re(1): Oem Relacement

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on October 19, 2006 at 09:20:54 PM by Larry Harsin

We don't quite understand your question, but the 1800A engine will fit in a S88, but it wasn't designed to be used that way. But you can make it work. Larry

Re(2): Oem Relacement

IP: 208.252.179.22 Posted on October 20, 2006 at 03:24:43 AM by Kevin

He says that they are the same and are legal in pulling.

Re(3): Oem Relacement

IP: 67.2.248.125 Posted on October 20, 2006 at 09:00:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Possibly. Different areas of the country have different pulling rules. Larry

Re(4): Oem Relacement

IP: 74.38.164.178 Posted on November 7, 2006 at 10:58:09 PM by Jeff Oliver

That was not the OEM replacement block for a Super which technically in some clubs make it illegal to pull with depending on the class you pull. We have a guy in this area running a 1800 gas in a Super for pulling Super Farm which with our loose rules is legal. If the rules say OEM replacement block then you can't do it. Allis on the other hand used the D 17-19 blocks as OEM replacements for the WD series. This technically means since you have a D 17 motor you can use that high RPM instead of the WD's.

Super 77

IP: 66.226.104.222 Posted on October 18, 2006 at 06:03:06 PM by Mike B

Can I get live hydro output from my original hydro system? I would like to add a third set of controls.

Re(1): Super 77

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on October 18, 2006 at 09:58:54 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to use your Power Beyond port. The Power Beyond port is the 1/2" pipe plug ahead of the front outlet on the left side on your hydraulic unit base plate. Remove this 1/2" plug out of the base plate. Insert a 3/8" socket head pipe plug in that threaded passage. Then that live oil will go through your valve that you want to install. The oil will have to go back into the unit on the right side where there is a 3/8" pipe plug, that you will remove. Larry

Oliver Pedal Tractor

IP: 63.165.214.103 Posted on October 18, 2006 at 05:29:21 PM by Janice Stafford

Do you know where a person can get a childs Oliver Pedal Tractor? I would like to get my first grandchild one for Christmas. Thank You!

Re(1): Oliver Pedal Tractor

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on October 18, 2006 at 09:52:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom Magnuson, Verona WI 608-437-5061. Check with your AGCO Dealer. I believe they can get them, if they don't have one on hand. Larry

1755 frontends

IP: 71.221.233.80 Posted on October 17, 2006 at 10:53:02 PM by Jeff Kartman

Hello, My question is would a 1650/1750 NF fit on a 1755. If so, would you have a front end (NF or WF) and what are you asking for them.

Re(1): 1755 frontends

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on October 18, 2006 at 06:13:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will fit. The 1650 NF is lighter. You should use the 1750 NF. I have a 1755 NF. I have a "set back" WF that would fit a 1755. Email me if you are interested in these. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

550

IP: 63.232.53.20 Posted on October 17, 2006 at 06:53:40 PM by Tim M

I am wanting to know if the power steering from a 1955 super 55 would fit on a 1958 550. Thank you

Re(1): 550 IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on October 17, 2006 at 09:10:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will. Larry

1965 oliver 55

IP: 69.29.229.73 Posted on October 15, 2006 at 01:25:37 PM by Clark Elsner

I JUST BOUGHT 1965 OLIVER 55. IT SET FOR 3 YEARS. I CLEANED THE FUEL SYSTEM. IT RUNS FOR A MINUTE THEN DIES. ALSO WHERE ARE THE SERIAL NUMBERS LOCATED.

Re(1): 1965 oliver 55

IP: 67.2.248.214 Posted on October 15, 2006 at 04:14:26 PM by Larry Harsin

It may have goop in the fuel strainer or the carb. Check the strainer first and if that doesn't do it, remove the carb and clean it up. The serial number is on the right side behind the engine block above the brake pedals. It's on the side of the clutch housing. Larry

Serial number codes

IP: 67.137.88.228 Posted on October 11, 2006 at 07:09:04 PM by Jeff Oliver

I have a 1950 Oliver 77 and am trying to decipher the codes on the serial number. I looked for the edition of Oliver Heritage that has them but I may have that one loaned out. Could you tell me which issue that is and also what the codes in this serial number are? it is 331852 C 77 D.

Re(1): Serial number codes

IP: 67.2.249.84 Posted on October 11, 2006 at 11:43:12 PM by Larry Harsin

The serial number is 331852. The C 77 D tells the gear ratio on the ring gear and pinion. If you have an Operator's Manual, it should tell you what the C 77 D represents. They list all of the different gear sets and the travel speeds. The Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA has "Build Cards" for these tractors. A computer went along the assembly line with the tractor when it was built and it punched a card when things were put into your tractor. For a fee (approx. $10), they will look up your "Build Card" and send this info to you. They will need your serial number. Other numbers that you can supply will help, such as the Spec Number. They cannot read all of the codes, but can read enough of them to make it interesting. They can also tell you what dealer first sold your tractor. You can also get an Operator's Manual from them. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Web Counters