"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - November, 2010 Archives


Oliver Super 55 - Diesel in Oil

IP: 24.173.237.210 Posted on November 27, 2010 at 12:52:14 PM by Dave

I have a 1957 Oliver Super 55 that is getting massive amounts of diesel in the oil. Where do I begin on troubleshooting this problem? The tractor still runs with no issue.

Re(1): Oliver Super 55 - Diesel in Oil

IP: 75.104.168.248 Posted on November 27, 2010 at 07:26:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably the lift pump. You can get the repair kit from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry


lift arms

IP: 4.252.134.58 Posted on November 27, 2010 at 10:57:50 AM by michael

I have a oliver 1650 the lift arms are missing parts. I wanted to know if they make after market arms for this without all the extra parts

Re(1): lift arms

IP: 75.104.168.248 Posted on November 27, 2010 at 07:24:58 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They don't make aftermarket arms or parts. You have to get used ones from salvage yards etc. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304, Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry


60 Rowcrop carb issues

IP: 97.112.118.86 Posted on November 26, 2010 at 07:10:58 PM by Uncle Mike

Larry, I have a 1946 Oliver 60 rowcrop. I've been having carb issues. The tractor won't fire. I have spark and know that, but it's not getting fuel from the carb to the cylinder. I'd like to fix the thing. I rebuilt the carb, and am pretty sure it's in good shape. Do you have any ideas why the cylinders would not be getting fuel? Another issue is the carb leaks fuel and it's overflowing. It appears the fluid might be leaking out instead of going to the engine. I double checked the float and replaced the needle valve and seat. All the gaskets are new. My smart alec wife keeps telling me to ask you if it could be the battery. And I ain't sayin' nothing. But I'm putting it in here to get her off my ass. I know about your website from your son Steve. My carb is a Marvel TSX120.

Re(2): 60 Rowcrop carb issues

IP: 75.104.168.248 Posted on November 27, 2010 at 07:22:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure that all of the cylinders have compression. Just remove all of the spark plugs and turn the engine while holding your thumb over the spark plug holes one at a time. If a cylinder does not have compression, remove the valve cover and make sure the valves are all working. Get your wife to help you. She could put her thumb on the spark plug holes or turn the engine over! :-) Larry

Re(3): 60 Rowcrop carb issues

IP: 97.112.115.202 Posted on November 27, 2010 at 07:33:39 PM by Uncle Mike

She's gonna have to help me. The plugs are on one side and the starter on the other. Could you send her an email and tell her to help me?


Gasket Cement on Hydraulic Inlet Adapter Gaskets?

IP: 155.188.183.16 Posted on November 23, 2010 at 11:48:06 AM by Rod

I tore apart the leaking super 55 hydraulics and it looks like my gaskets were totally shot. I'm putting it all back together, and while I know the rubberized gaskets on the pan won't need any kind of sealer, will the Hydraulic Inlet Adapter gaskets need anything?

Re(1): Gasket Cement on Hydraulic Inlet Adapter Gaskets?

IP: 75.104.169.20 Posted on November 24, 2010 at 07:27:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably a thin film of the silicone would be o.k. Larry


Oliver 70 front end

IP: 98.174.191.219 Posted on November 21, 2010 at 10:53:19 AM by Mac

I have a 1947 Oliver 70. When you take it down the road in high gear, the front end shimmies terribly. I know I will need to overhaul the front end. Can you let me know if there is anything of special nature I need to be aware of as I get into this project? I assume it should be fairly straightforward but I've never rebuilt the front end of one of these tractors before. Thanks Larry!

Re(1): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 75.104.168.44 Posted on November 21, 2010 at 05:16:09 PM by Larry Harsin

This is a common problem on that model of Oliver. As you will discover, there are many wear points. They will all have to be corrected. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 70 front end

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on November 22, 2010 at 04:49:46 PM by D H

that may not even be the front end,could be drag link,or steering box free play.


Ignition timing

IP: 64.68.182.253 Posted on November 21, 2010 at 09:26:05 AM by Troy Waldman

Hi Larry, We just got a used Oliver 1800 tractor (6 cylinder, gasoline), and believe it is a 1963 model. Can you tell me what the correct ignigion timing is, point gap, point dwell, and spark plug gap is. Your help is much appreciated.

Re(1): Ignition timing

IP: 75.104.168.44 Posted on November 21, 2010 at 05:05:42 PM by Larry Harsin

The correct ignition timing when it is idling slow is Top Dead Center. Point gap is .020. I don't know the dwell. Spark Plug gap is .025. Larry


cab switch?

IP: 99.183.201.23 Posted on November 17, 2010 at 08:57:20 PM by w blevins

My 1800B has an Hinker cab in overall poor condition. I recenty found a cab off of a 1855. Will this cab work? Also would like to go through the cab before installing if it will fit, any idea where to look for the correct material to refurbish the cab ie... heater parts, wiper parts, headliner(upholstery)? Thanks

Re(1): cab switch?

IP: 206.72.19.182 Posted on November 19, 2010 at 08:33:40 AM by djm75

Hiniker is still in buisiness in Minnesota and you maybe able to get stuff from them. I know I have.

Re(1): cab switch?

IP: 75.104.168.44 Posted on November 18, 2010 at 06:57:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I think that cab could be made to work on your 1800B. Hi-Capacity at Humbolt IA makes kits to refurbish cabs, but you have to go through a dealer to purchase one. Contact your local AGCO Dealer to get one. Larry


77RC Diesel

IP: 208.126.97.87 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 11:41:36 PM by Wayne Tye

Just purchased 1952 77 RC Diesel. Also have 47 Oliver 70... It is probably in in forums somewhere but need to know the capacity of the rear end. transmission. and the hydraulics. Does the hyddraulic use engine oil or hydraulic fluid. Thanks....She runs good and tin is pretty straight...Hope hydraulic pump is OK..

Re(1): 77RC Diesel

IP: 75.104.168.44 Posted on November 18, 2010 at 06:52:58 AM by Larry Harsin

The capacity of the rear end on the 77 is approx. 5 gal. The hydraulic holds about 6 qts. of med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry


Oliver 1850 gas 310 problems

IP: 64.24.157.194 Posted on November 15, 2010 at 10:59:40 PM by Brian

I own an Oliver 1850 gas 310 tractor with the infamous Holley distributor. I have reset the timing several times and it runs fine for about 30 minutes of use and then it seems as though the timing goes off. When I bought it, the tractor would surge when driving at low RPM's and then run fine going uphill. Any ideas?

Re(1): Oliver 1850 gas 310 problems

IP: 206.72.19.182 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 05:29:31 AM by djm75

the holley is a good distributor I also have a 1850 gas. Sounds like the govenor if its surging. Are you sure the timing is being changed?

Re(2): Oliver 1850 gas 310 problems

IP: 75.104.182.21 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 09:22:24 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be several things. Get out your Operator's Manual and see what you can find. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 1850 gas 310 problems

IP: 24.52.155.218 Posted on November 29, 2010 at 08:11:52 AM by Brian

I tried static timing and running timing by the manual and it worked for a day and then the timing changed and it would die on me. Carb is clean as a whistle. The advance on the Holley seems to work fine when I unplug. Should I consider messing with the governor?

Re(4): Oliver 1850 gas 310 problems

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 24, 2010 at 10:00:59 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to use your own judgement. Larry


1600 Energy Cells

IP: 72.2.201.67 Posted on November 15, 2010 at 10:13:19 PM by JNP

What is the best way to remove the energy cells from a 1600 diesel? My manual says to use a 15/16-20 thread puller but I have not had any luck finding something with this size thread. Are there any other good ways to remove them or a place to get a puller?

Re(1): 1600 Energy Cells

IP: 208.103.155.13 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 07:07:36 AM by Larry from MD

Unless you have to put them in a differant head, its best to just clean them where they are.I made a puller to remove ones from an 1800. Had a fellow cut some threads in a large reddy rod.

Re(2): 1600 Energy Cells

IP: 75.104.182.21 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 09:24:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Larry from MD. I would go to a bolt store or have a machinist make one to that thread count. Larry


Serial Number

IP: 74.85.207.112 Posted on November 14, 2010 at 06:32:10 PM by Jeff Leslie

i just purchsed and oliver 88 RC. i belive that it is an early 1950 modle but i can not find the plate that has the serial number on it. can you please help me locate this plate

Re(1): Serial Number

IP: 75.104.182.21 Posted on November 15, 2010 at 07:36:38 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number should be on the right front side of the rear main frame. Sandra Harsin


70 RC 1948 trans fluid

IP: 205.185.96.25 Posted on November 14, 2010 at 01:07:12 PM by Doug Osmundson

Thanks for previous verification of where to put the oil. I bought an owners instruction book that gives specifications etc. but does not provide basic info. My tractor drips fluids over time and I need to check the trans fluid. Do you think the owners manual tells you how? No. I need to know how to check and where to fill. Is it like a car, in that the vehicle needs to be running to check the trans fluid? Also, I've looked at a lot of internet sites for basic new maintenance parts. Steiner seems to have the most. Any dealers you like that I may have overlooked? Thanks for any advice. Doug

Re(1): 70 RC 1948 trans fluid

IP: 75.105.54.203 Posted on November 14, 2010 at 05:56:18 PM by Larry Harsin

The transmission is checked at a 1/2" pipe plug, that is on the right rear on the bull gear housing. This IS in the Operator's manual. The tractor does not need ti be running. Larry


880 Power Steering

IP: 24.111.52.169 Posted on November 13, 2010 at 07:23:02 PM by Dave Wicks

I have an 880 with a power steering pump from a 1600 or 1650 mounted near the water pump. The pump was leaking power steering fluid and I had it re-built. My question is what is the proper power steering fluid to use? The operators manual mentions SAE 10 motor oil or Type A automatic trans fluid. Neither are easy to ourchase any more. What should I be using in place of these two? Thanks

Re(1): 880 Power Steering

IP: 206.72.19.182 Posted on November 14, 2010 at 01:54:08 PM by djm75

Type A is easy to get it's everywhere it's dexron now.

Re(2): 880 Power Steering

IP: 75.105.54.203 Posted on November 14, 2010 at 05:50:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Use Mercon or 10W - 30 motor oil. Larry


oliver starter

IP: 207.42.18.141 Posted on November 12, 2010 at 06:28:15 PM by Jim McCrystal

Larry, the starter went out on my 1655 oliver tractor. It has a delco remy on it and I was checking to see if there is an after market one I can put on it from an auto parts store like oreillys. Any help would be great.

Re(1): oliver starter

IP: 75.104.182.19 Posted on November 13, 2010 at 07:38:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I try to stick to original equipment as much as possible. I don't know of any after market starter. If you would check your yellow pages, you might find a Delco-Remy shop that could repair your starter. Larry


Hydra-Power Drive

IP: 74.126.249.42 Posted on November 12, 2010 at 04:29:21 PM by Austin White

I was plowing with my 1955 the other day and everything was working good until i put it into underdrive, and it didn't slow down. Overdrive works good. When I go from overdrive to direct it slows down alot. It almost seems that is skipping direct drive and going straight into underdrive. Is this possible? What happened to my underdrive? It has been working fine since i got the tractor running lasst spring. Thanks

Re(1): Hydra-Power Drive

IP: 75.104.182.19 Posted on November 13, 2010 at 07:36:31 AM by Larry Harsin

There may be a sticky regulator valve that is causing it to skip direct drive. If it hasn't had the fluid changed recently, I believe I'd change the fluid and put a new filter on it and see if that helps. Larry

Re(2): Hydra-Power Drive

IP: 74.126.249.42 Posted on November 13, 2010 at 05:42:55 PM by Austin White

I just changed the fluid and put a new filter on it last spring. Should i just continue using it and hope it fixes itself or do i need to tear it apart?

Re(3): Hydra-Power Drive

IP: 75.105.54.203 Posted on November 14, 2010 at 06:00:32 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to use your own judgement on this. You should send that to a qualified dealer to repair the unit. Don't try to do it yourself. Larry


White 2-70 three point

IP: 71.49.65.83 Posted on November 10, 2010 at 08:00:39 PM by Brad Boyer

Second question. On my White 2-70, when I lift the three point, it will raise to the position then drop down a little. Fluid level is fine. Any answers?

Re(1): White 2-70 three point

IP: 75.104.169.12 Posted on November 12, 2010 at 07:14:09 AM by Larry Harsin

As long as it doesn't affect the operation too much, I wouldn't worry about it. Larry


White 2-70 Starting problems

IP: 71.49.65.83 Posted on November 10, 2010 at 07:56:08 PM by Brad Boyer

I have a White 2-70 that's a good running tractor. Problem is starting it after it has set for very long. It takes a lot of cranking. I can hit the ether button in the cab and not much help. After it starts for the first time it will start as soon as you hit the key. Any suggestions?

Re(1): White 2-70 Starting problems

IP: 75.104.169.12 Posted on November 12, 2010 at 07:12:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I would wonder about the injection pump maybe losing it's prime. If it isn't smoking when you try to start it, this is a good indication of losing the prime. This may be as simple as a bad check valve in the transfer pump or the right side of the block. Larry


550 carburator

IP: 184.41.49.100 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 08:39:46 PM by Frank Dodson

My 1964 Oliver 550 has a MS carburator and it was rebuilt 2 years ago and the float is stuck. I have been told that a Zenith is a much better carburator. Should I get a new Zenith or have the MS rebuilt again? I need suggestions concerning dealers or rebuilders. Thank you

Re(1): 550 carburator

IP: 75.104.161.207 Posted on November 9, 2010 at 06:09:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the Marvel Schebler is a good carb. I'd rebuilt it. It is just as good as the Zenith. Larry


770 won't stay in 1st or 3rd gear

IP: 66.191.142.50 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 05:37:00 PM by Clay

I have an Oliver 770 that won't stay in 1st or 3rd gear. I pulled the hydraulic pump to see what the problem is. It looks like in 1st and 3rd gear there are two gears below the input shaft where one gear fits inside another gear. Anyway I think the female gear is floating a bit to much which causes the transmission to pop out of gear. My guess is there is a spacer or snap ring missing behind the female gear (side towards the engine) which is allowing the gear to float. Does this sound correct? And what is entailed in fixing the problem?

Re(1): 770 won't stay in 1st or 3rd gear

IP: 75.104.161.207 Posted on November 9, 2010 at 06:06:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There should be a snap ring and a spacer in front of the female gear. The snap ring may have come out of the groove, which would cause this problem. You may be faced with a complete tear down of the transmission and rear end. If you can get the bearing cage off of the bevel-pinion shaft, you may be able to replace the snap ring, but if the snap ring groove is damaged, the bevel-pinion shaft may need to be reworked or replaced. Also, the condition of the bushing in the female gear may be part of the problem. Larry


2-70 White hydraulics

IP: 199.150.177.21 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 08:29:29 AM by Gleanerguy

The hydraulics quit working on my brother's 2-70 White. We were moving round bales with his loader and it worked fine. Then the next time we went to use it, the loader goes up, but real slowly & won't pick up a round bale. He put a new hydraulic pump in it in 2008. It has about 400 hours on the new pump. I tested the pressure with a gauge at the rear remotes where the cylinders to raise & lower the loader are plugged in. I only get about 600 PSI. Could a bad relief cause the same symptoms as a bad pump? Appreciate any ideas here.

Re(1): 2-70 White hydraulics

IP: 208.103.155.35 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 11:22:07 AM by Larry from MD

Yes, does the powersteering work?The preasure relief is the large plug near the front of unit.

Re(2): 2-70 White hydraulics

IP: 199.150.177.21 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 01:08:18 PM by Gleanerguy

The power steering works fine.

Re(3): 2-70 White hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 01:40:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Screw the relief valve assembly out of the tractor and check that little brass screen that is about the size of a quarter. Clean it out and make sure it is o.k. Then, clean up the parts and put it back together. Check your pressure and see what you have. Larry

Re(4): 2-70 White hydraulics

IP: 199.150.177.21 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 02:32:39 PM by Gleanerguy

Thanks Larry, we'll try that. If I'm not mistaken, the pressure relief valve is the big plug towards the front of the housing on the right side (as you're sitting in the seat). Am I correct?

Re(5): 2-70 White hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.207 Posted on November 9, 2010 at 06:10:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You are correct. Larry


power booster

IP: 75.197.132.254 Posted on November 7, 2010 at 09:28:34 PM by ...

I have found a power booster for an 770 or 880. My question is, can I put it on my 88 pulling tractor with a limited amount of modifications, and also will it hold up to around 100hp? If this will be a help I may buy it, but if it is just going to cause me problems I would rather leave it alone. Thanks for any help that you have to offer.

Re(1): power booster

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 07:08:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't use it. It will be more trouble than it is worth to put 100 hp into it. Larry


oliver 99

IP: 69.19.14.24 Posted on November 7, 2010 at 06:47:32 PM by Cory Chapman

I was looking for an exhaust manifold and exhaust for a 1950 4 cylinder Oliver 99 and was wondering if you new where I could find one?

Re(1): oliver 99

IP: 75.104.182.129 Posted on November 8, 2010 at 07:06:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Check with Rosewood Machine and Tool 937-362-3871. Larry


Oliver 550 Govenor

IP: 71.90.117.0 Posted on November 6, 2010 at 11:18:15 PM by Jackson Wilson

I just received a 1960 Oliver 550 in need of a govener, Do you know where I would be able to get one?

Re(1): Oliver 550 Govenor

IP: 75.105.45.59 Posted on November 7, 2010 at 03:42:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349 He has parted out a lot of these tractors. If he doesn't have one, give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry


where do I put the oil?

IP: 205.185.96.25 Posted on November 6, 2010 at 02:59:38 PM by Doug Osmundson

I bought a 70 oliver row crop a year or so ago and have not been able to do anything with it yet. I had to have my son hand crank it as it was too much for my arms. Bought a battery and found that the starter works. But the oil has seeped out.I bought an owners manual online but it did not indicate where the oil filler spout is. The only thing that appears to be it is mounted on the back of the magneto towards the front of the engine. Is that it? I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I don't want to pour oil into the wrong place. Thanks.

Re(1): where do I put the oil?

IP: 75.105.45.59 Posted on November 7, 2010 at 03:40:42 PM by Larry Harsin

That is the right place to put the oil. Larry


oliver 990

IP: 70.33.6.70 Posted on November 5, 2010 at 11:18:09 PM by Andrew Nevala

my grandpa has a oliver 990 i think the last time it was started was ten years ago. I was wondering how to start it because you have to use the battery cabels. there is no key ignition

Re(1): oliver 990

IP: 75.104.169.169 Posted on November 6, 2010 at 07:36:44 AM by Larry Harsin

You should get an Operator's Manual for it. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. It will tell you about changing all of the fluids etc and what to use, before starting your tractor. Does it have a push button starter? Larry


pull engine/valves

IP: 75.214.17.113 Posted on November 4, 2010 at 08:45:02 PM by Mark

how much work is it to pull the engine on an 88rc with a power boost?How do you set the valves on this engine? It is a gas engine

Re(1): pull engine/valves

IP: 75.104.169.203 Posted on November 5, 2010 at 07:31:34 AM by Larry Harsin

The way that is done is to take the fuel tank and battery out of the tractor, then unbolt the dash and lay it up on top of the engine and secure it there. Remove the PTO drive shaft that goes up into the engine (that is pulled out from the rear of the tractor.) Drain the anti-freeze and remove the radiator. Unbolt the power booster drive clutch (6 - 5/16 bolts). Then unbolt the engine from the frame and lift it out. (To set the valves, that procedure is outlined in your Operator's Manual.) Find TDC number 1 first. Then set the intake at 10 and the exhaust at 18. Rotate the engine 1/3 of a turn and set those 2 valves on number 5 cylinder. Then proceed on through the firing order turning 1/3 at a time. Larry

Re(2): pull engine/valves

IP: 75.218.151.58 Posted on November 5, 2010 at 10:00:02 PM by Mark

pulling the engine sounds easy enough. I need to get an operators manual to help set the valves. Thank you for your help.

Re(3): pull engine/valves

IP: 75.104.169.169 Posted on November 6, 2010 at 07:30:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry


Super 55 Hydraulics Leaking into Transmission

IP: 71.51.124.110 Posted on November 3, 2010 at 07:18:39 PM by Rod

I have a 1955 Super 55 gas, and the hydraulics seem to be leaking down into the transmission. It's a pretty slow leak, and it seems to leak when I'm using the tractor, and when it's resting too. I have pulled the hydraulics off the top of the tranny, and right off the bat, I can't see anything obvious. Oh, also, the hyrdualics are plenty strong. Is there a part on these that fails first that might be a good place to start? When I pulled off the hydraulics, there seemed to be just enough fluid to fill the reservoir, up to the gasket, so I figure I should at least start by replacing the gaskets above and below the reservoir. Any thougts about where to start would be helpful.

Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulics Leaking into Transmission

IP: 75.104.169.115 Posted on November 4, 2010 at 07:22:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I would look for a pinpoint hole in the oil pan. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Hydraulics Leaking into Transmission

IP: 71.51.124.110 Posted on November 20, 2010 at 02:31:26 PM by Rod

Thanks Larry. When I tore it apart, the gaskets were pretty well shot. I ordered new pan gaskets, which appear to be rubber, and new inlet adapter gaskets. I've wire brushed all surfaces and cleaned everything up real good. Do I need any kind of cement on the gaskets? The rubber pan gaskets will probably be fine, but what about the inlet adapter gaskets?

Re(3): Super 55 Hydraulics Leaking into Transmission

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 24, 2010 at 09:58:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I would put gasket compound on the inlet adapter gaskets. Don't put anything on the rubberized gaskets. Larry


1850 (I think), hydraulics

IP: 207.194.78.45 Posted on November 2, 2010 at 06:41:43 PM by Rod

I have wht I believe to be a Cockshutt 1850 (Model #265-42028, Serial #170-993-468) with no 3pt, but a front end loader. The lift and tilt are very slow and weak, but also I need to have the motor revved way up to go down as well. Does this indicate a blockage somewhere or is there a internal problem? Any insight would be gratly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 (I think), hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.215 Posted on November 2, 2010 at 10:39:33 PM by Larry Harsin

You should check the hydraulic pressure where the couplings attach to the tractor. It should read 1750 - 2000 lbs. psi. I think you will find the pressure is low, which could very well be a weak pump. I don't believe it is a blockage. Larry

Re(2): 1850 (I think), hydraulics

IP: 207.194.78.211 Posted on November 2, 2010 at 11:28:27 PM by Rod

Will lowpressure make the bucket slow to come down to? If I dont have er wound right up and try to drop the bucket, it is real slow and will bounce sumpthin awful.

Re(3): 1850 (I think), hydraulics

IP: 75.104.169.115 Posted on November 3, 2010 at 07:21:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Low pressure will make that happen. Larry


88rc

IP: 75.214.87.30 Posted on November 1, 2010 at 09:43:00 PM by Mark

I bought what was suppose to be an 88rc. I have no doubt that it is a row crop! But what I am not sure of is if is the rear half of an 880 or an 88 with a power boost on it. The only serial number on that I can find is on the right side of the transmission. It shows that it is a 51 88rc. There is no way a belt pulley can go on it because of the power boost. Is this a cobbed together mess that i have or did someone add the PB later? Thank You.

Re(1): 88rc

IP: 75.105.57.42 Posted on November 1, 2010 at 11:01:19 PM by Larry Harsin

If the serial number is on the right side of the transmission, it is a 1951 and someone has added the power booster to it. Larry


1955 Super 88 diesel

IP: 71.7.24.152 Posted on November 1, 2010 at 07:51:00 PM by Chad

This tractor had been overhauled and has about 8 hours on the new engine, my question is when it first starts up (it is really hard to start when cold) it runs really rough and even seems like it misses, but after it warms up it seems to run fine. Is this normal? It will run like this for 5 to 10 mins.

Re(1): 1955 Super 88 diesel

IP: 75.105.57.42 Posted on November 1, 2010 at 10:59:08 PM by Larry Harsin

It is not normal with a fresh overhaul. It should start easy. I'm assuming the injectors are in good condition. Were the intake valves flush with the head surface or are they down, like 1/8 " from the surface? This can cause what you describe. Larry


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