"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - November, 2012 Archives


1650 3 point

IP: 69.179.14.155 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 10:55:54 PM by Gerald Hubbling

I have a 1650 and I'm missing the 3 point arms and the linkage that goes between arms and the lift arms. Will ones off a 1550 fit? Or what other models will fit. Thanks

Re(1): 1650 3 point

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on November 30, 2012 at 10:47:23 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1550 arms should fit. Larry


Oliver 500 Decals

IP: 174.124.44.190 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 03:46:27 PM by Brad Walen

Were could I find some Oliver 500 Decals? Wanting to restore it.

Re(1): Oliver 500 Decals

IP: 216.90.64.210 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 07:30:54 PM by Al T

You might try Oliver Decals by Lyle + Helen Dumont at 20545 255th St, Sigourney, Iowa 52591

Re(2): Oliver 500 Decals

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on November 30, 2012 at 10:45:49 PM by Larry Harsin

That is who I would recommend also. There is a listing for them on our main page. Larry


77 diesel main bearing

IP: 12.2.142.13 Posted on November 28, 2012 at 10:42:02 AM by john

I am replacing the main bearings in a 77 diesel standard. I pulled the orignal and it had one flanged thrust bearing in #1 (front). The manual says it is supposed to be in #3 from front. The bearing kit has two. Where do I put the thrust? The second thrust does no fit over the cap, can I put it in both one and three?

Re(1): 77 diesel main bearing

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 07:14:46 AM by Larry Harsin

The Thrust is the 3rd one from the front. Both flanged inserts should be used at that point. Originally, this engine was built with only the upper flange on #3 main. Larry

Re(2): 77 diesel main bearing

IP: 12.2.142.13 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 12:57:18 PM by john

Mahle, the bearing supplier, has suggested grinding the cap to make the shells fit. Does this sound reasonable? I would rather machine the flanges off the bearing. Do you know if the flanged thrust will fit over the cap on three, or was a different cap design encorporated?

Re(3): 77 diesel main bearing

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on November 30, 2012 at 10:43:54 PM by Larry Harsin

In my experience, that flanged bearing should fit that cap. Larry

Re(4): 77 diesel main bearing

IP: 98.215.108.119 Posted on December 3, 2012 at 05:50:13 AM by john

Dropped the pan and pulled the bearings. Number 3 main cap was machined and the bearing fit.


1550 hydraulic connection

IP: 216.90.64.210 Posted on November 28, 2012 at 07:55:21 AM by Al T

On my 1550 there are 2 handles for remote hydraulic connections but only one set of couplers. Are the ports for the second set of line the plugs on the right side of the housing opposite for the lines on the left? Also is this tractor able to supply a steady flow of hydraulic oil. I know the newer Whites can. It would be a plus when using the fertilizer spreader not to need to hold the handle down to run the spreader fans.

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic connection

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 07:12:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There is a Power Beyond that can be accessed. Larry

Re(2): 1550 hydraulic connection

IP: 216.90.64.210 Posted on November 29, 2012 at 10:30:35 AM by Al T

OK the owners manual doesn't show the location to add the pipes for either the constant flow or the second control hydraulic outlets. Can you help me locate both sets of ports?

Re(3): 1550 hydraulic connection

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on November 30, 2012 at 10:52:37 PM by Larry Harsin

For the remote outlets, it is just the opposite of the other side. For the power beyond ports, there is a 1/2" pipe plug that points forward on the left front of the cover. It's near the left front corner of the seat bracket. After removal of this plug, you insert a 3/8" socket head pipe plug. This makes it so the oil comes out to go to the inlet side of your loader valve. The point where the fluid goes back in to the tractor is the 1/2" pipe plug directly back of the point where you blocked it. It points out toward the fender. Larry

Re(4): 1550 hydraulic connection

IP: 216.90.64.210 Posted on December 1, 2012 at 05:41:43 AM by Al T

Thank you, I don't think I would have found the power beyond ports without your help. I'll be doing the plumbing in the next few days.


1650 oliver

IP: 198.45.168.188 Posted on November 26, 2012 at 10:32:57 PM by Chad

Hi Larry I have a 1650 that has transmission prolbems. You have to have the clutch pushed in at all times, if you let it out it will kill the engine. If the tractor is in neutral and you let the clucth out it will still kill the engine. If you push the clutch in it will also roll around freely. As soon as you let it out it stops. Thanks for you help.

Re(1): 1650 oliver

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on November 27, 2012 at 07:27:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I would guess that the gears on the top shaft are seized to the shaft. Has the transmission oil level been checked? Larry


1750 distributor

IP: 174.20.125.172 Posted on November 20, 2012 at 03:26:59 PM by Floyd Hampton

Will a distributor from a 1750 fit a 1550?

Re(1): 1750 distributor

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on November 21, 2012 at 06:46:51 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will. Larry


1650 pto shaft

IP: 69.66.209.1 Posted on November 19, 2012 at 05:56:50 PM by Shane Griffin

I need to remove the PTO shaft so I can remove eng/trans. to replce the clutch. I'm not sure how to slide the PTO shaft back. I removed the cover (4 bolts) and the shaft only moves half-inch or so.

Re(1): 1650 pto shaft

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on November 20, 2012 at 06:40:51 AM by Larry Harsin

When you look at the drive hub, you'll see 2 holes. When you turn the clutch in the drive hub, you will see 2 more holes where you fit a snap ring plier into the snap ring. This snap ring is about a 2 inch internal expanding. After releasing this snap ring and bringing it out of the groove, engage the PTO clutch. Then, using 2 big screwdrivers (one on each side), pry the drive hub back toward you to bring it out of the tractor. Larry


1850 hydraulics

IP: 47.54.82.22 Posted on November 15, 2012 at 09:51:17 PM by john gallant

First of all I appreciate such a great website. Continue the good work. I have a 1965 oliver 1850 diesel with a loader which is plumbed in rear remotes. I would like to plumb it into power beyond with it's own valve. I have a new valve rated for 9 GPM continuous and 12 GPM peak. How many GPM is the hydraulic pump rated at and how much flow can I expect through power beyond ports. Will this valve be sufficient? Also just to make sure, are the hydraulics on this unit open center? It has the pressure relief valve on the right front of the housing. Thank you in advance for your help and all the other help your website has provided since I've purchased this tractor a month ago. A very fine machine

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on November 16, 2012 at 07:29:28 AM by Larry Harsin

Your new valve is a bit on the low side. I would prefer a valve with a little bit higher GPM. But, try it and see, it will probably work. Yes, the hydraulics are open center, The hydraulic pump on that tractor is rated at 12 - 13 gal. per minute. Larry

Re(2): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 47.54.82.22 Posted on November 17, 2012 at 10:50:30 PM by john gallant

Thanks for the quick response. My main concern is pump cavitation from not enough flow... Maybe I better get q bigger one. Also I have discovered that the spring in pressure relief valve is broken. What is the highest pressure I can set it to once I replace spring and seat? Once again thank you.

Re(3): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on November 18, 2012 at 01:11:04 PM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't have more than 2150 psi. Larry


1755 Diesel tach drive

IP: 207.255.1.98 Posted on November 14, 2012 at 10:16:36 AM by Mike

Hello, I'm having an issue with a replacement tach drive installing in the drive gear in the case. The engine was overhauled and the tach drive was lost. The replacement drive simply will not go into the drive gear. Is the engaging slot on the tach drive gear slight offset from center? Thanks!

Re(1): 1755 Diesel tach drive

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on November 15, 2012 at 07:41:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is off-set. Larry


Oliver 550

IP: 71.213.247.159 Posted on November 12, 2012 at 06:54:23 PM by Gary

A couple of months ago I put in new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condensor, and points. It's been running great. Today I tried to start and it cranks but doesn't start. I checked to make sure there was no moisture in the cap. I'm no mechanic. Where would you recommend to start troubleshooting?

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on November 14, 2012 at 07:46:11 AM by Larry Harsin

First thing I would do is remove the air intake hose from the carb and see if it is flooded with gas. Also, is there gas in the gas tank? I have seen this before. :-) Larry


Oliver 1755

IP: 66.82.162.32 Posted on November 10, 2012 at 04:29:43 PM by Larry Miller

My 1755 makes a intermittent squeeling noise when the clutch is pushed in and the tractor is in gear. It seems like the clutch wants to engage slightly on it's own when it squeels.

Re(1): Oliver 1755

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on November 12, 2012 at 08:49:53 AM by Larry Harsin

My first guess is that you have a Pilot Bearing that is going bad. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1755

IP: 69.35.192.124 Posted on November 12, 2012 at 04:02:25 PM by Larry Miller

How do I go about changing the bearing? How big of job is it?

Re(3): Oliver 1755

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on November 14, 2012 at 07:44:12 AM by Larry Harsin

If the engine has a Hydra-power or a Hydral Shift, you are going to have to remove the unit from the tractor and set it on the floor and then unbolt the unit from the back of the engine, so you can access the clutch. Then, remove the clutch from the fly wheel and you'll find the pilot bearing. If it is not equipped with the hydraul, then you can do the job without removing the engine from the tractor. Larry


Super 77 clutch

IP: 66.103.177.220 Posted on November 7, 2012 at 10:55:47 AM by Bob Elliott

Larry what is the easiest way to put a clutch and pressure plate in a Super 77 diesel, split it or pull the engine? I have read both ways but you would know.

Re(1): Super 77 clutch

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on November 8, 2012 at 06:45:17 AM by Larry Harsin

No. The way to do a clutch job on this model is: Remove the fuel tank and the batteries. Then, unbolt the dash and lay it up on top of the engine and tie it so it will stay there. Then, remove the long PTO drive shaft from the rear of the tractor. If it has a belt pulley assembly, you must remove that gear box. Then, you can get to the clutch to remove it. Larry


oliver 1465

IP: 70.194.7.161 Posted on November 7, 2012 at 07:20:29 AM by Alan Hahn

I found a Olver 1465 4cyl. diesel with 1510 loader 1510 hours has hydrolic pump on pto. is this a good reliable tractor, any weak points to look for? have a 200 acre farm in Michigan any info. advice would be appreaciated

Re(1): oliver 1465

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on November 8, 2012 at 06:41:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You must remember that this is a Fiat tractor, built in Italy. However, it is a good tractor, but parts are not as readily available here as they would be for a US built tractor. Also, this tractor was built during the late 60's and this affects the availability of parts. If I went to see the tractor and I liked it and it was completely there, I would certainly consider it. Larry


1650

IP: 173.84.245.130 Posted on November 3, 2012 at 09:58:14 AM by David Risser

I have a Oliver 1650 that has always been problems. I am wondering if it will be better with a electronic ignition kit.

Re(1): 1650

IP: 204.248.124.171 Posted on November 3, 2012 at 09:55:10 PM by Brett1655

Best thing I ever did to my 1655 was throw out the points/condenser. The rotor and cap have lasted 5 times longer than they ever did. The points only lasted a year anyhow. I have the Mallory distributor on mine. It also cut fuel consumption a good bit.

Re(2): 1650

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on November 5, 2012 at 06:53:01 AM by Larry Harsin

The electric start might help it. Larry


oliver 60

IP: 71.162.38.3 Posted on November 1, 2012 at 12:08:49 PM by Rob

I'm going to be looking at a 41' oliver 60 on sunday, I've got a couple of fords already but this will be my first oliver can you tell me what problems i should be looking for on the 60's

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on November 2, 2012 at 07:07:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The main things to look for is that it runs o.k. and is operational. If the engine needs much repair, some of the 60 engine parts are getting harder to find. Check rear wheel rims to see if they have been rusted through with calcium. These rims are scarce. Larry


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