compression check

IP: 75.197.217.230 Posted on October 31, 2010 at 05:41:24 PM by ...

when doing a compression check on a 310 motor, what numbers should I be looking for? Thanks

Re(1): compression check

IP: 75.105.57.42 Posted on October 31, 2010 at 07:01:40 PM by Larry Harsin

In the neighborhood of 150 psi. Larry

Oliver 1250

IP: 184.56.83.152 Posted on October 31, 2010 at 02:05:29 PM by Richie

looking to tune up my 67 Oliver 1250 where can I get the parts I.E. coil, wires, cap, button, and points? Or parts that cross to it. thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 1250

IP: 75.105.57.42 Posted on October 31, 2010 at 07:00:34 PM by Larry Harsin

You didn't say whether it is a gas or a diesel. However, I don't have parts. Call Rick's Agri-Parts. 330-466-2164. Larry

1800 A Governor

IP: 173.215.20.201 Posted on October 28, 2010 at 06:44:45 PM by Austin Bell

We have a 1962, 1800 Oliver and the governor keeps twisting off behind the balance weight and in front of the drive gear. We have replaced the bushings, the gear, the T shaft, weights, the housing. The tractor will run for close to an hour then it will break again. This tractor is all original. What would be breaking this? We would appreciate any input.

Re(1): 1800 A Governor

IP: 75.104.161.242 Posted on October 29, 2010 at 07:45:41 AM by larry Harsin

I would inspect the cam shaft gear to make sure there are no rough spots in it. There is probably a rough spot causing this to happen. Larry

White clutch alignment tool

IP: 12.231.120.171 Posted on October 26, 2010 at 01:41:36 PM by Chris Chewning

Do you know where I can buy a clutch alignment tool for a White 2-85 with a 12'' clutch?

Re(1): White clutch alignment tool

IP: 75.104.169.204 Posted on October 26, 2010 at 06:16:22 PM by L`h

I use and old clutch shaft. It does the same thing as a pilot tool. Check with a repair shop close by and see if they have one you can borrow. Otherwise, just put it in there and site it in. Larry

Re(2): White clutch alignment tool

IP: 64.32.255.210 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 01:42:43 PM by Chris Chewning

I made one out of a piece of 1-1/4 PVC Pipe. I had to sand it down a bit to make it fit but it worked like a dream.

S77 carb

IP: 75.213.37.168 Posted on October 24, 2010 at 07:51:58 PM by Mike Welch

Wonderful site, great information. Fuel constantly drips from the Zenith carb on my S77 out of a hole on the bottom of the intake port. Additionally, if any choke is used for starting the engine floods instantly and won't start. Then, once running, the choke doesn't seem to have any influence on how the engine runs. It has a new rebuild kit in it, needle, seat, gaskets, and has been cleaned well, and set to kit specs. On the throttle linkage, at full linkage movement, the butterfly is only half open. I'm not real impressed with this carb. Is there a better option for a carburetor for this tractor?

Re(1): S77 carb

IP: 75.104.169.204 Posted on October 25, 2010 at 07:27:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd be tempted to try a different needle. That carb has proven out to be a good unit for me. You could put on a Marvel Schebler TSX374, but I'd stay with the Zenith if I could make it work. You might try clamping the bowl in a vice and filling the float chamber with fuel to where it normally should be and checking to be sure that fuel is not coming up around the main fuel nozzle gasket. Larry

casting numbers

IP: 75.104.96.55 Posted on October 23, 2010 at 11:47:22 AM by jack

what would the casting number be on a 1550 or a 1555 gas cylinder head

Re(1): casting numbers

IP: 75.104.169.204 Posted on October 25, 2010 at 01:23:31 PM by Larry Harsin

The casting numbers are: 166011AS and 161157AS. Larry

1550 0r 1555 head

IP: 99.196.128.59 Posted on October 21, 2010 at 08:18:52 PM by jack

i am looking for a 1550 or a 1555 cylinder head anybody got one? for a gas motor

Re(1): 1550 0r 1555 head

IP: 75.104.161.80 Posted on October 22, 2010 at 06:45:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Try Midwest Cylinder Head 800-873-8506 or Chapin Machine and Welding 800-648-1083 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

1955

IP: 74.126.249.42 Posted on October 20, 2010 at 07:41:33 PM by Austin White

I recently restored a 1955 diesel. I was plowing with it the other day and it started to vibrate and make a grinding noise. Come to find out it snapped off all the bolts that hold the flywheel on. I was pulling it pretty hard (Was riding a wheelie) when it happened. I can't imagine it was just to much torque, but i'm at a loss as to why this happened. I'm dissapointed in this tractor. I've had nothing but problems with it. I was toying with the idea of doing a Cummins re-power. what is your opinion of these? On an unrelated note did Oliver make a 5 bottom on-land plow?

Re(1): 1955

IP: 75.104.161.80 Posted on October 22, 2010 at 06:38:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Cummins is an excellent choice, but it takes a lot of work to get it done correctly. Another good engine for this is a Perkins, like is used on a 2-105. Yes, Oliver did make an on-land hitch, 5 bottom plow. I know of none in this area. Larry

88 oliver

IP: 75.107.0.38 Posted on October 20, 2010 at 04:45:54 PM by jack

have a 1949 88 oliver rc wanting to add a few more horses is there a later model head that will increase air flow that i can replace my old one with

Re(1): 88 oliver

IP: 75.104.161.80 Posted on October 22, 2010 at 06:34:56 AM by Larry Harsin

You could put a S88 or an 880 head on it. Larry

77 heads

IP: 75.104.96.55 Posted on October 18, 2010 at 07:35:42 PM by jack

what is the difference in a 77 head with casting number 185402 m180c and one with 185502h 100334a

Re(1): 77 heads

IP: 75.104.169.17 Posted on October 19, 2010 at 06:49:31 AM by Larry Harsin

The first one is for a Fleetline 77 and the second one is for a 770. The valves are larger in the 770 one, but it will work as a replacement for the Fleetline 77 one. Larry

lag angle

IP: 71.192.123.88 Posted on October 17, 2010 at 01:23:40 PM by wes

Hi I was Wondering if you would know the correct lag angle on a 56 oliver oc3 crawler with a wico xh 1113 magneto any help greatly appreciated

Re(1): lag angle

IP: 75.105.57.82 Posted on October 18, 2010 at 07:07:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Zimmerman Cletrac about this. Website: www.olivercletrac.com Email: zoc@pcfreemail.com Phone: 717-738-2573. Larry

White 2-85 clutch replacement

IP: 71.178.137.48 Posted on October 16, 2010 at 04:57:01 PM by Chris Chewning

Hey Larry, My White 2-85 lost its clutch one day driving it down the road. I got it home and pulled out the radiator gas tank ect...to pull the motor and trans out. I split the engine and trans just to look inside and the nuts on the pressure plat that compress the springs have fallen off. I put it back together and went to pull out the PTO drive shaft and I can only get it out about a foot. Is there anything else I have to do besides pull it real hard? I followed the directions in my shop manual and pulled out the plug, snap ring, ect...Any insight is appreciated.

Re(1): White 2-85 clutch replacement

IP: 208.103.155.38 Posted on October 16, 2010 at 06:48:00 PM by Larry from MD

That shaft has to get the second set of splines lined up on the hydrolic drive. So just pulling don't allways work. You need to turn and pull untill you think its lined up good,then pull harder. Those nuts are supposed to be staked to the bolts. Now is see lots of them both staked and locktighed.

Re(2): White 2-85 clutch replacement

IP: 75.104.182.255 Posted on October 17, 2010 at 05:40:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Those nuts aren't supposed to come off. Possibly someone else has had them off and didn't get them fastened on correctly. Besides the plug and the snap ring, there is an O ring in there that has to be removed. There are also 2 sets of splines that have to line up at the same time, so don't try to force it real hard. If the shaft won't come out, push it back in all of the way and then try to turn the PTO output shaft and then try again. It will eventually come out when it is lined up. Larry

Re(3): White 2-85 clutch replacement

IP: 64.32.255.210 Posted on October 18, 2010 at 08:38:32 AM by Chris Chewning

Should I have to use a puller to get it started or should I be able to remove it by hand?

Re(4): White 2-85 clutch replacement

IP: 75.104.169.17 Posted on October 19, 2010 at 06:47:17 AM by Larry Harsin

No. Do not try to use a puller. Just do it by hand. When you get the splines lined up, it will come out. Larry

Re(5): White 2-85 clutch replacement

IP: 64.32.255.210 Posted on November 16, 2010 at 01:41:06 PM by Chris Chewning

Just wanted to let you know that I got the tractor back together with a new flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, and bearings. It took a day to tear down and a day to put back together spent most of the time waiting for parts. Everything works great now. Thanks for all of the help.

1650 3 point

IP: 72.160.252.75 Posted on October 14, 2010 at 08:14:08 PM by Gerald Hubbling

I have a 1650 gas thats missing the 3 point arms and linkage. What other models have the same 3 point as a 1650. Thanks

Re(1): 1650 3 point

IP: 75.105.44.32 Posted on October 14, 2010 at 10:21:01 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1650 is the only one that would be the same on those and 2-70 parts will work. Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry

white tractor cab

IP: 208.126.188.95 Posted on October 14, 2010 at 11:17:10 AM by David Lange

I have a white rops model 1755 cab that was previously on my 1800 oliver. Do you know where I can get directions for mounting it back to the tractor and wiring things back up correctly? Thanks.

Re(1): white tractor cab

IP: 75.105.44.32 Posted on October 14, 2010 at 10:17:33 PM by Larry Harsin

An Operator's Manual or a Parts Manual would probably show you how to do it. The Operator's Manual will have the wiring diagram. You can get these books from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Larry

1610 loader

IP: 216.51.248.43 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 11:30:29 PM by Brian Blessington

I bought a 1610 loader for my 1750 gas tractor. I have a parts manual and I see that I am missing the 3 spacer plates that go between the loader frame and the tractor frame on each side. one plate is larger and has 4 holes. The other two are smaller and have 2 holes. I would like to find out the thickness of each plate so I can make them. Can you help?

Re(1): 1610 loader

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 07:25:40 AM by Larry Harsin

They are approx. 7/16" thick. Larry

1800C front axle conversion

IP: 109.67.33.103 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 08:21:28 PM by JT

I have an 1800C with a narrow axle (great machine). I would like to convert this to a wide axle. Is this possible? Could I use an axle from a 1650? If conversion is possible, who would be a source for parts?

Re(1): 1800C front axle conversion

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 07:24:25 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. A wide front will work. A 1650 front end will fit an 1850. I have them. You can call me. 712-362-2966. Larry

70 rods

IP: 69.97.155.40 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 07:04:04 PM by ...

In regards to an Oliver 70 connecting rod, I was wondering if you could provide the rod length, crank journal diameter, and width. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 70 rods

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 13, 2010 at 07:59:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The overall length of the rod is 9 inches, center to center is 7 inches. Bearing shield with 1 1/16 inches. Rod journal 1.936 inches, Pin diameter .8595, Rod bearing bore 2.061 inches. Larry

1850 Hydraulics

IP: 98.125.121.14 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 03:44:58 PM by Matthew Jorgensen

Hello, I have an 1850 Oliver with the 354 Perkins and Hydra-Power. It has some issues that I'd like to take care of this summer.....

1: What fluid goes in the Hydra Power? I'm using Dexron/Mercon ATF as that's what I was told was closest to "Type A" hydraulic fluid. This thing leaks profusely, so I intend to go through it this winter... That'd be the time to change it.

2: What fluid in the hydraulic system? Right now it's got good-ol Hy/trans from carquest.... The system has a bad habit of running VERY hot and also of developing pressure in the remotes (i.e: If you've got a cylinder attached, both hoses become pressurized and you have to move it forward and back then immediately shut off the engine or the lines stay pressurized and you can't reconnect them) Also, the 3 point sometimes acts goofy. (If you put the lever all the way down, the arms won't move.... Have to move the control arm down slowly...)

3: I replaced the PTO clutch this spring. I refilled the rear end with Hy/trans fluid as that's what I was told.. I'm concerned about proper lubrication of the transmission/rear end as hy/trans is so thin... Should a heavier oil like gear lube be used?

Re(1): 1850 Hydraulics

IP: 208.103.155.130 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 06:40:48 PM by Larry from MD

You should use 80/90 gear oil in the rear.The 3 point levers DO that don't try to fix its the way they are.

Re(2): 1850 Hydraulics

IP: 98.125.121.14 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 09:37:21 PM by Matthew Jorgensen

Glad to know that with the 3 point lever. Interesting little quirk. I'll be sure and change the rear fluid out this winter.... Am i correct in assuming that oil also serves the transmission as well? Also, there's a bit of a wear scar on the big bull gears in the back.. Would some lucas oil stabilizer added to the 80/90 be a good idea?

Re(3): 1850 Hydraulics

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 05:14:06 AM by djm75

dexron is type A thats what you use in the hydra-power

Re(4): 1850 Hydraulics

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 07:18:12 AM by Larry Harsin

What you are using in the hydra power is o.k. 2. That is the nature of the system. If the unit is running very hot, that is not good. You should have free travel on the top of the travel on the 3 pt. arms. You probably have to adjust the linkage on the turn buckle. This is in your Operator's Manual. 3. 80 - 90 Transmission oil is used in the transmission and final drive. Use med. non-foaming hydraulic oil in the hydraulic system. Larry

1850 hydr power

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 08:38:04 AM by jeremy

I have a question regarding my 1850. I was plowing last week on a couple of 85 degree days. I noticed the hydro power got really hot to the touch. Is this normal? If not what do I need to do to address this issue? I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks

Re(1): 1850 hydr power

IP: 208.103.155.130 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 06:42:53 PM by Larry from MD

The hydro power is cooled by the water in the engine so it will run at the same temp. as the engine.

Re(2): 1850 hydr power

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 07:21:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Basically, it runs the same temp as the coolant in the engine. So, hot to the touch would not be abnormal. Larry

Re(3): 1850 hydr power

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 08:19:11 AM by jeremy

I also should have mentioned that once in a while the hydra power would not shift into low from direct unless I pushed in the clutch. I am assuming this is a tear down in order to fix? Thanks again for your help. I have not worked on these before. How do I go about checking the preasure regulating valves and springs? Where do I access them? What am I looking for when I get in there? Thanks for the help.

Re(4): 1850 hydr power

IP: 75.105.44.32 Posted on October 14, 2010 at 10:31:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Jeremy, You are correct in that this will mean a tear down. This is not a pressure related problem. It is a bad sprague clutch. You'll want to get a new sprague clutch and an Overhaul kit with new gaskets and seals. Then, while you are in there check the relief valve seat on the lube circuit. If the seat is bad, you can get a new seat for it from AGCO. Or Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

rims

IP: 98.110.213.83 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 07:36:46 AM by phil johnson

hi will oliver 70 rims 40 "fit on oliver 80 cast iorn centers?

Re(1): rims

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 07:19:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe they will fit. Larry

1600

IP: 99.71.255.47 Posted on October 10, 2010 at 07:18:43 PM by Tom

Have a 1600 gas that had been sitting a few years, got it started and engine makes a squeal at an idle, but noise goes away after its throttled up and runs normal, then when throttle is backed down and close to 10 on tack, noise start back again. At idle engine sounds like its laboring and will die, got any ideas?

Re(1): 1600

IP: 75.105.51.45 Posted on October 11, 2010 at 06:57:56 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is laboring, you might have a bearing running dry in the engine. It might be in order to remove the oil pan and check the rod and main bearings. Larry

wrong part blues

IP: 108.98.152.171 Posted on October 9, 2010 at 07:38:33 PM by Tom

Ref - my earlier posts on the 1800B with broken right shift rail. Went to Worthington for the part, and came home with 104778a, which is what the Agco book called for. Got it home and compared to the broken part. It's not right. The detents and the keyway are on the wrong ends compared to the broken part. I dug thru the bins and nothing there looked like mine. Mine has no p/n on it. The one i got is not even correct for the left side. Any ideas?

Re(1): wrong part blues

IP: 75.104.168.252 Posted on October 9, 2010 at 09:38:54 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I have no idea. Every shift rail I have ever seen has a part number on it. Take your broken one with you the next time. Larry

1948 Oliver 70 RC- Belt Pulley

IP: 99.164.121.204 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 09:11:15 PM by Terry Allen

When I engage the belt pulley and the PTO, only the PTO turns. The belt pulley actually turns some, but can be stoppped by hand. What do you think is the problem?

Re(1): 1948 Oliver 70 RC- Belt Pulley

IP: 75.104.168.252 Posted on October 6, 2010 at 07:19:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say that the key is sheared in gear on the output shaft on the transmission. Larry

Re(2): 1948 Oliver 70 RC- Belt Pulley

IP: 69.221.166.159 Posted on October 7, 2010 at 10:24:46 PM by Terry Allen

Trying to find area and parts in the service manual. Can you advise pages and item numbers? Does this repair require removal and tear down of the transmission?

Re(3): 1948 Oliver 70 RC- Belt Pulley

IP: 75.104.168.252 Posted on October 9, 2010 at 09:36:04 PM by Larry Harsin

The transmission will not have to be torn down, but the drive for the belt pulley will have to be removed so that you can gain access to the gear that drives the belt pulley shaft. I suspect that the key in that gear will be sheared. You will also have to remove the steering gear box before you can remove the belt pulley drive shaft. Refer to page 7 - 5 in the 70 Shop Manual. Figure 7 - 7 shows the gear that I think will have the key sheared. Larry

motor swap

IP: 75.197.5.31 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 08:41:28 PM by ...

I have recently purchased an 880 motor to put in my 88. I have read that I will have to swap the end plates, but I was wondering if the flywheel was interchangeable or if there is a difference either in weighting or clutch size selection? I just want to know which flywheel to use? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): motor swap

IP: 75.104.168.252 Posted on October 6, 2010 at 07:18:21 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are going to use the old bell housing you will use your old adapter plate (end plate). I would use the old flywheel and starter, but they are interchangeable. Most of the 88's were made so that you could use either a 10 or 11 inch clutch. Larry

1750 bent pushrods

IP: 216.51.248.43 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 11:37:26 PM by Brian Blessington

I bought a 1750 gas that was missing on one cylinder. I did a compression check and #1 cyl. had none.The rest were between 120# and 170#. I removed the valve cover and #1#3#5#6 had bent intake push rods. #1 rocker arm was not engaged with the pushrod. Any idea what may have caused this? Is there something I should check before reassembling? Thank you.

Re(1): 1750 bent pushrods

IP: 75.104.169.180 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 07:03:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Possibly the engine had set a long time and the valves may have been stuck. Also, maybe lack of oil to the valve train could have been a factor. Maybe the source of the oil is plugged or something like that. Were there signs of moisture in the spark plug holes, like if the tractor had been sitting outside or something? Put penetrating oil on the valve stems and tap on the rocker arms with a hammer to make sure the valves aren't sticking. Larry

hitch

IP: 66.51.229.194 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 09:18:48 PM by Val Rush

Will a hitch from a 77 Oliver fit on a 88 Oliver

Re(1): hitch

IP: 75.104.169.180 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 06:59:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will. Larry

1650 gas problems

IP: 65.30.149.35 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 08:13:35 PM by canner

I have a 1650 gas that all of a sudden had a hard time getting to start. I put new plugs,wires, coil, cap, points,condenser, rebuilt carb, drained gas, inline filter. Still won't run right. It will idle ok, but when under any type of load it will backfire a sputer. Any thoughts, thanks

Re(1): 1650 gas problems

IP: 75.104.169.180 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 06:58:29 AM by Larry Harsin

You may not be getting enough currant to the coil. You could have a bad ignition switch or something wrong with the wiring between the ignition switch and the coil. Try running a jumper wire from the battery to the coil and see if that makes a difference. Larry

Re(2): 1650 gas problems

IP: 163.153.134.15 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 12:07:39 PM by robert lapage

You may also want to check the gas flow. Take the line off and blow air back into the tank....

Super 55 Died

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 05:42:50 PM by Karl

My gas Super 55 was running fine and then the engine just died one day and will not re-start. It is full of fuel flowing freely at the carburetor, and is not flooded, but does not fire. Starter power is fine and all wiring appears intact, and plug and coil wires are all properly connected. Where should I start to trouble-shoot?

Re(1): Super 55 Died

IP: 184.217.227.187 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 07:26:53 PM by Tom with a sick Ollie too

Sounds like no spark to me. Pull a plug out, lay it on the head and crank the engine, looking for spark. If no spark, check for 12v at the + of the coil with key on. (assuming this is negative ground tractor) If you have power there, remove the distributor cap, I suspect your points are the issue. If points are OK, consider changing the coil. IF there was not power at the coil, then work back toward the ignition switch. If you have an external resistor for the coil, make sure it is not burned up. If none of the above works, repaint the tractor and I'll come give you $50 for it! Re(2): Super 55 Died

IP: 75.104.169.180 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 06:52:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like Tom has it figured out. Points are the first thing I would check. We'll give you $60 for it. :-) Larry

Re(3): Super 55 Died

IP: 71.146.141.146 Posted on October 5, 2010 at 10:05:50 AM by Karl

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let you know what I find. As for the $50-$60--I have two unrestored running Super 55s and I wouldn't take $2000 for either one. Usually reliable and durable, in my experience.

Re(4): Super 55 Died

IP: 75.104.168.252 Posted on October 7, 2010 at 06:11:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I hope you know that we were joking. :-) Larry

cletrac not tramming

IP: 148.64.37.222 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 00:26:12 AM by jb

bgs dozer stopped moving with clutch let out but would tram backwards with one right steering handle in a circle

Re(1): cletrac not tramming

IP: 75.104.182.131 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 07:06:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Landis Zimmerman - He's a Cletrac expert. 717-738-2573. Larry

Oliver 1750 D Rebuild

IP: 75.167.248.190 Posted on October 3, 2010 at 08:21:44 PM by Oliver 1750D

Decided to rebuild a 1750D that Spun a rod bearing. I know this 310 engines had a few issues, and really want a strong reliable tractor when done. What are the improvements you think need to be done, and where can i find quality sleeve and piston sets, at a reasonable price. My machine shop can get the bearings, after looking at the crank, will have do get an oversized for the spun road, but otherwise everythign looks good. ANY help would be great, so let me know.

Re(1): Oliver 1750 D Rebuild

IP: 208.69.166.119 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 01:28:15 AM by Ross

I recently rebuilt a 310 out of an 1855. Two of the most important things to make sure of are 1) One Piece Rod Bushings and 2) New Rod bolts. Despite what some may say, these are very good, reliable engines when rebuilt properly.

Re(2): Oliver 1750 D Rebuild

IP: 75.104.182.131 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 07:04:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Korves Oliver has sleeves and pistons and the necessary gaskets. 618-939-6681. Get the one piece rod bushings. Be sure and check the condition of the oil pump. Larry

lift arm seals leaking badly

IP: 71.113.177.51 Posted on October 3, 2010 at 07:02:04 PM by ednillinois

is it a big job to replace the seal on a lift arm? it looks to be a simple job but--- after the clutch ordeal im not so sure. a snap ring slide arm off or is that not so easy. then remove and install new seal right?

Re(1): lift arm seals leaking badly

IP: 75.104.182.131 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 07:01:25 AM by Larry Harsin

It is not a bad job. The lift arms do slide off after the snap ring is removed. Then you have to carefully remove the old seal and install the new one. Larry

1800 head

IP: 72.8.242.185 Posted on October 3, 2010 at 11:15:27 AM by Clinton

Was wondering if there were any other heads that will work on the early model 1800 gas engine?? Any body have parts??

Re(1): 1800 head

IP: 75.104.182.131 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 06:59:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Not that I know of. I don't have any parts for an 1800 gas. Larry

Oliver 70 with 40" wheels

IP: 75.197.203.250 Posted on October 3, 2010 at 10:03:03 AM by Red Charvat

I have an Oliver 70 with 40" wheels. What options do I have to change to 38" wheels? What parts will interchange.

Re(1): Oliver 70 with 40

IP: 75.104.182.131 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 06:58:42 AM by Larry Harsin Just get the hub and steel wheels from the later Oliver 70's and they'll fit right on there. I have some if you need them, call me. 712-362-2966. Larry

550 firing order

IP: 75.158.71.167 Posted on October 2, 2010 at 09:24:39 PM by R Redelback

Please advise. Is the firing order for a Cockshutt 550 with a G0198 engine 1243?

Re(1): 550 firing order

IP: 75.104.182.131 Posted on October 3, 2010 at 08:15:02 AM by Larry Harsin

That tractor has a Hercules engine and is not like an Oliver 550. I don't know and I don't have a book for it. It should say right on the engine somewhere, "firing order" followed by the numbers. Landis Zimmerman would know this. 717-738-2573. Larry

Web Counters