Oliver 1750 transmission

IP: 173.84.245.143 Posted on October 29, 2011 at 06:39:31 PM by Chet Risser

I have a 1750 Oliver and I put a new bearing on the top shaft of the transmission right being the over and under sprockets. Now that i have the tractor back together the downstair gears dont want to pull and which are 3,5,6 and R2 it just grinds. I was wondering if the top shaft of the transmission has any thing to do with these gears or is it a different shaft and if so which shaft is it in the transmission.

Re(1): Oliver 1750 transmission

IP: 75.105.51.149 Posted on October 30, 2011 at 03:25:19 PM by Larry Harsin

The top shaft has the high and low range cluster and you have something wrong there. You'll have to take it apart and see what it is. Larry

1600 clutch

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on October 26, 2011 at 02:19:54 PM by denny-o

Clutch started slipping while discing the South 40... Ordered a new clutch and pressure plate assembly back in July, but managed to nurse the old clutch along till spraying was finished... Just took the old one apart and it has 11.75" disks and the new unit has 11.00" disks... The supplier ways the 11.00 is the correct clutch assembly for the 1600... He suspects it is the clutch assembly for a 1650... I like the idea of the bigger clutch plate... I did find that there is oil on the clutch from a failed seal on the transmission and that the disk and plate are serviceable and can be washed and put back in, so not sure what way to jump here... What say you? denny-o

Re(1): 1600 clutch

IP: 69.72.27.134 Posted on October 27, 2011 at 06:39:37 AM by Larry from MD

The larger clutch is the way to go and also a new one.I have had 4 of the clutch centers break out of 1600 tractors, 3 were the smaller and one was a 1650 one.

Re(2): 1600 clutch

IP: 75.104.168.233 Posted on October 28, 2011 at 06:44:56 AM by Larry Harsin

In any case, you have to get the oil leak stopped. Also, be sure the rear main seal on the engine is good. It will be your call as to which clutch you put back in there. Get the oil leak stopped and you may not need to change the clutch. I suspect that the input seal on your hydra-power is what is causing the problem. Also, the seal inside your hydra-power where the input and output shafts join, in my experience, need replacing every time. That will call for a hydra-power seal and gasket set. Also, check the regulator valve for the lube circuit on the hydra-power. Nearly all of them, if they have many hours, needs a new seat for that relief valve. What happens here is, the lube circuit isn't putting enough oil up through the cooler, causing the hydra-power to overheat and cook the seals. Larry

1600 oil seal

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on October 26, 2011 at 02:11:51 PM by denny-o

I'm looking for the transmission input shaft oil seal number...

Re(1): 1600 oil seal

IP: 98.80.145.17 Posted on November 9, 2011 at 10:40:26 AM by Cleon Couey

Denny, That seal number is 1K-620 or 107260AS

Oliver 880

IP: 71.85.197.34 Posted on October 26, 2011 at 12:05:04 PM by Jim

Have an Oliver 880 that has a loader on it, but clutch needs replacing and brakes need replacing, fuel system, cooling system and some minor electrical fixes. Can you ball park a selling price as is? It has set for several years. It did run last time we tried it.

Re(1): Oliver 880

IP: 75.104.168.233 Posted on October 28, 2011 at 06:31:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Not really. If it is mechanically sound otherwise, I would think $2000 would go a long way. Larry

302

IP: 69.171.119.198 Posted on October 25, 2011 at 05:31:13 PM by Jon Noe

LARRY IS IT POSSIBLE OR FEESABLE TO BUILD A 302 CI OUT OF A 1600 OR 1800 GAS ENGINE ANY THOUGHTS OR HELP ON THIS

Re(1): 302

IP: 75.104.161.87 Posted on October 26, 2011 at 07:49:41 AM by Larry Harsin

The 302 engine is different than the 2 engines you want to use. It is a different family of engines. It has dry sleeves. I think a better candidate to build an engine that would come close or be similar to, would be an 880 engine. Some of those 880 engines have been built up to 500 cu.in. I have not heard of anyone building the 1600 or 1800 up that much. Larry

Re(2): 302

IP: 173.161.9.61 Posted on October 26, 2011 at 08:14:55 AM by Jon Noe

Larry thanks for the response I thought that the 880 was basicly the same as a1600 block wet sleeves etc maybe i should start over I am using the tractor for daily farm use I dont want or need 500 CI ijust want to build something respectable in the 90 pto hp range

Re(3): 302

IP: 75.104.168.233 Posted on October 28, 2011 at 06:29:28 AM by Larry Harsin

I would do it with the 880 engine rather than the 1600. Parts availability is better and more people have done it with the 880 than the 1600. This is not to say that it can't be done with the 1600. This is simply my opinion. Larry

Re(4): 302

IP: 173.161.9.61 Posted on October 28, 2011 at 08:39:13 AM by Jon Noe

so what are they using for sleeves , pistons,rods, and etc

Re(5): 302

IP: 75.104.169.204 Posted on November 1, 2011 at 08:19:04 AM by Larry Harsin

On the 880 engine, you can use a 3 7/8 M&W set up. If you are going to use the 1600 or 1650 engine, there is a 3 7/8 kit for them also. Larry

Re(6): 302

IP: 173.161.9.61 Posted on November 2, 2011 at 01:39:25 PM by Jon Noe

Larry I did a 1600 20 years ago with the 3 7/8 and love it now the 1650 is in need and having a hard time locating the 3 7/8 M&W kits I also need an oil pan for my 1650 do you have one and how much

Re(7): 302

IP: 69.72.27.52 Posted on November 2, 2011 at 08:54:39 PM by Larry from MD

M&W was sold to another company i think, so you can't really search under their old name.

Re(8): 302

IP: 75.104.182.206 Posted on November 3, 2011 at 07:10:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I'll check for those parts and get back to you. Larry

Re(9): 302

IP: 173.161.9.61 Posted on November 3, 2011 at 11:29:00 AM by Jon Noe

If Im not mistaken the research I have done leads to a company called Valu- Bilt and they are showing a 3 7/8 kit I am sure it is the same as the old M&W And yes please let me know on the oil pan and also with alittle deeper digging I have also found I am in need of a head

Gearbox Fluids

IP: 165.201.162.178 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 11:17:37 AM by Nathan

I have an Oliver 1800 Gas, not sure of the series. I would like to change the transmission oil. Are there any tricks or does a person just drain and fill with 80/90.

Re(1): Gearbox Fluids

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 01:06:13 PM by Larry Harsin

On the earlier 1800, there are 2 level plugs. The later 1800 has the level plugs on the rear on the PTO housing - there are 2 half inch pipe plugs. Fill it to the level (top) of the top plug. Larry

Coupler Sprockets

IP: 76.3.41.78 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 07:00:30 PM by Justin Gravitt

After taking out the engine on my 1650 diesel I know that the input shaft for the transmission has alittle slop on the end where the sproket for the coupler chain rides, it seems like a big job to get out is there any way I could weld this gear in place or should I just replace I want to do this right but trying to save alittle money

Re(1): Coupler Sprockets

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 01:03:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Do not weld the sprocket to the shaft!!! That would be a disaster. I would recommend replacing the sprocket if it shows wear. If half the splines are left on the shaft, I would just replace the sprocket and not the shaft. Larry

Re(2): Coupler Sprockets

IP: 67.162.180.134 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 03:35:11 PM by Justin Gravitt

Ok thats what I wanted to know I had heard of someone doing that but it seems like that would not work, There a at least half the splines left so that is what I will do. Also the pto shaft that goes into the flywheel is worn if half the splines are there could I continue to use it also?

Re(3): Coupler Sprockets

IP: 75.104.161.87 Posted on October 25, 2011 at 07:02:56 AM by Larry Harsin

That's what I'd do. Larry

pto clutch adjust

IP: 74.204.111.27 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 11:27:58 AM by Dean

How do you adjust pto clutch on 1550 with single speed pto? Manual doesn't cover adjustment for single speed pto.

Re(1): pto clutch adjust

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 01:00:57 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 3 shim packs to set the tension on the clutch plates. Remove shims to make it tighter. If the clutch is too tight, you add shims. Larry

1650 hydraulics

IP: 184.158.20.141 Posted on October 22, 2011 at 09:22:22 PM by Gerald Hubbling

Hi Larry last month I asked you about a problem I was having with my 1650, it wouldn't hold the cylinder on the loader. I took the top cover off and when I took one of the interlocks apart a piece of an oring came out with it. Problem is it wasn't one of the interlock orings, so I have no idea were it came from. So I'm going to put it back together and hope. Now heres the question in all of this, one of swicthes on the solenoids is broken, the one wire broke off inside. Do the solenoids actually do anything if you're not using the hydra electric cylinders with it? Thanks

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 08:50:09 AM by Larry Harsin

The piece of O ring that you found, I guessing, is a piece of an O ring out of a cylinder. So..... you could possibly have oil leaking by a loader cylinder piston and be part of the problem. The switches have no effect on operation, if you aren't using the hydro-electric cylinders. Larry

coolant heater replacement problem

IP: 216.65.164.178 Posted on October 22, 2011 at 09:31:05 AM by Mark

Hi Larry - I need to replace the1000W coolant heater in my 1650. I'm trying to remove the old one -but it won't budge. Do you have any suggestions for removing a stubborn element? I think it might be the original one. It worked until last winter when the prongs corroded and the outlet fell off. I've removed the elbow it screws into, placed that in a vice, and the heater still won't budge. I've also tried penetrating oil but no luck. thank you. Mark

Re(1): coolant heater replacement problem

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 08:43:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I take the whole elbow off of the tractor and put it in a vise. You may have to heat it a bit before it will let go. Larry

Re(2): coolant heater replacement problem

IP: 216.65.164.178 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 05:02:53 PM by Mark

Thank Larry! I used a propane torch to heat the elbow and it came lose.

DuAl loader

IP: 69.26.8.205 Posted on October 20, 2011 at 09:22:25 PM by Bill Wagner

I have a DuAl 325 loader on my 1650 and I am wondering if anyone can tell me where to find the DuAl orange paint and decals for restoring it?

Re(1): DuAl loader

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 08:40:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Do you have any paint at all on the loader you have? Find a place where two pieces come together and possibly it wouldn't be faded. Take a paint chip to your paint dealer and have him match it. I don't know if DuAL is still in operation or not. I'll see if we can find out. Larry

Re(2): DuAl loader

IP: 69.26.8.205 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 01:57:33 PM by Bill Wagner

Actually the paint is pretty good. It has been repainted, but I have done some welding on it and those areas are now just primered so I need the paint. Yes, that's a good idea. I can take the color to a paint place. The decals might be another story. It is a model 325.

Re(3): DuAl loader

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 01:32:53 PM by Larry Harsin

We knew that DuAL loaders were built in Sioux Falls SD. So, we called around and found a dealer named Pfeifer Impl. or Pfeifer Mfg. (not sure) 605-338-6351. They said they no longer have the paint or the decals. I was somewhere looking at paint, some time ago, and I saw DuAL paint. But I can't remember where I was. I would try the paint matching technique and you may have to have a decal made. Very expensive to do that. Larry If you know what it looks like, see if someone can paint it on for you. Sandra

Re(4): DuAl loader

IP: 69.26.8.205 Posted on October 24, 2011 at 09:07:01 PM by Bill Wagner

Thanks Larry. I have been having trouble keeping the cylinder seals from leaking too. I have replaced them and soon they drizzle again. Wondering if this Pfeifer place might have cylinders? Or somehwere else that has replacement cylindars.

Re(5): DuAl loader

IP: 75.104.161.87 Posted on October 25, 2011 at 07:05:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd check with them. But the main thing about those cylinders -- use a non-detergent hydraulic fluid. Larry

loader mounts

IP: 72.101.146.246 Posted on October 20, 2011 at 04:50:53 PM by Mason

i just bought a westendorf WL-30 loader to put on my 1650. my problem is that I'm not sure where to get mounts for the tractor. loader did not come with oliver mounts. do I need to build or fabricate my own.

Re(1): loader mounts

IP: 75.104.168.219 Posted on October 23, 2011 at 08:36:50 AM by Larry Harsin

It would be better if you could buy some regular mounts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 or Terry Lister at 712-623-3336. Larry

Re(2): loader mounts

IP: 209.50.26.189 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 01:32:51 AM by bastar

You could call the factory it's in Owana, IA.

engine removal

IP: 70.252.149.183 Posted on October 19, 2011 at 06:26:23 PM by justin gravitt

I have the engine ready to be removed and was trying to take the engine and under over unit together. When trying to slide the unit forward the what I believe to be the PTO shaft is causing problems. I obviously have the chain coupler off, how do get that shaft out of the way? Does it slide back? Also when I take the gears off the output of the over under unit where do I get the socket, or do I just make one. Thank You for your help I do have a manual but must be missing how to do this.

Re(1): engine removal

IP: 75.104.182.140 Posted on October 20, 2011 at 04:59:38 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to slide the PTO shaft out of the rear of the tractor and get it out of there. There is a snap ring, then a threaded plug that is about 3 1/2" long, then, remove the O ring that seals the plug, then, use your threaded 1/2" rod to pull the PTO drive shaft out. You can make a spanner wrench to work on that nut on the output sprocket or use a hammer and a punch. Larry

1650 under over hyd shift

IP: 76.3.44.23 Posted on October 16, 2011 at 09:36:00 PM by Justin Gravitt

I getting ready to pull the engine for a rebuild and was wondering what I should do to the under over unit it seems to work good but does leak alittle is there anything I should be doing to it other that buying the gasket set and replacing them?

Re(1): 1650 under over hyd shift

IP: 75.104.168.151 Posted on October 18, 2011 at 06:34:36 AM by Larry Harsin

No. Just stop the leaks and that should do it. Larry

Re(2): 1650 under over hyd shift

IP: 69.72.27.105 Posted on October 18, 2011 at 06:29:28 PM by Larry from MD

Be sure to replace the orings that seal the lower shaft.

880 D Trans Fluid

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on October 16, 2011 at 06:33:30 PM by Dave

Larry, I have an 880D with no torgue and standard transmission. I see references in the manual about using SAE10 as transmission fluid also same in power steering system. What is the best lubricant to use for the transmission and the power steering for winter use? Thanks Dave

Re(1): 880 D Trans Fluid

IP: 75.104.168.151 Posted on October 16, 2011 at 08:36:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Use 80-90 transmission lube. Larry

Oliver 1550 with no spark

IP: 74.34.85.155 Posted on October 14, 2011 at 10:01:51 AM by Kevin Moschenrose

I am working on a 1550 with a Mallory distributor in it. The orginal I was told went bad and this was the replacement for it at the time. I have installed a new coil and checked "good" new mallory points, condensor, rotor, and cap. I can get a spark at the points when I manually work the points but when I replace the cap no spark to the plug. New plugs and wires where also installed.

Re(1): Oliver 1550 with no spark

IP: 142.165.64.62 Posted on October 15, 2011 at 10:46:03 PM by harvey

is your rotor making contact with the cap? Sometimes the obvious is too easily overlooked. Re(2): Oliver 1550 with no spark

IP: 75.104.168.151 Posted on October 16, 2011 at 08:30:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure that the points are not hanging up on the post. Make sure they are gapped correctly. Larry

1650 injector pump

IP: 71.164.74.178 Posted on October 10, 2011 at 07:09:21 PM by robert lapage

Hello Larry. I have a 1650 diesel that needs a govenor ring. Do you know where I can find one for the injector pump? thanks again!!!

Re(1): 1650 injector pump

IP: 75.104.168.151 Posted on October 13, 2011 at 06:54:39 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Central Fuel Injection and ask to speak to Bill. 712-362-4200.

1650 gas extra remotes

IP: 64.198.67.204 Posted on October 10, 2011 at 05:12:39 PM by nate

I have a 1650 gas oliver, and i am attempting to mount a snow plow on to my loader for this winter. Is there any way to run another valve off of the tractor with out disconnecting my loader lift and curls?

Re(1): 1650 gas extra remotes

IP: 75.104.168.151 Posted on October 13, 2011 at 06:53:20 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to use the Power Beyond to do that. Below the left front corner of the seat frame, there is a 1/2" pipe plug pointing forward. Remove that plug. You will find a threaded passage. Approx. 2" into that passage, is a threaded area that is a 3/8" pipe thread. Install a socket head 3/8" pipe plug there. Then, an inch or two further back, there is another 1/2" pipe plug, pointed toward the fender. This is where the oil returns to the hydraulic system from your extra valve. Larry

1800 power steering

IP: 71.217.246.177 Posted on October 9, 2011 at 08:24:01 PM by Scott

Im looking at a Gemmer Hydraguide to add power steering to my 1800. What else do I need to make this work?

Re(1): 1800 power steering

IP: 75.104.169.70 Posted on October 12, 2011 at 05:41:52 PM by Larry Harsin

It depends on how your 1800 is equipped. I'm guessing it is a wheatland with manual steering. You are going to have to have different parts on the front end. Check with Meyer Salvage at Aberdeen SD. 605-225-0185. Larry

Re(2): 1800 power steering

IP: 71.217.242.112 Posted on October 13, 2011 at 04:55:51 PM by scott

Industrial style, which Im guessing is the same Thanks

Re(3): 1800 power steering

IP: 75.104.168.151 Posted on October 16, 2011 at 08:33:28 AM by Larry Harsin

If your steering gearbox is still usable, I would put a Char-lynn power steering on it. It will be less trouble and work better and won't be nearly as hard to do. Larry

770 hydraulic problem

IP: 66.82.162.11 Posted on October 8, 2011 at 10:31:19 PM by Joe

Larry, need help with 770 hydraulic trouble. I am not getting enough pressure out of my pump to lift much with my bucket. I had the pumped replaced twice with a rebuilt one by a tractor mechanic and each time it worked fine for a short time then went away. When we sent the first one back to the dealer they said that they checked it out and found nothing wrong with it. Now I have the same problem again, losing pressure and losing oil to the transmission. After each pump replacement everything worked fine for a short time. If its not the pump giving out what else could it be?

Re(1): 770 hydraulic problem

IP: 75.105.44.120 Posted on October 9, 2011 at 03:16:48 PM by Larry Harsin

If the pump worked o.k. for a short time, you might have some contamination in your hydraulic system, such as metal shavings etc. I'd recommend that you flush the system carefully and if the pump is bad again, this is probably what happened. Also, do you have an extra reservoir on your tractor, for your hydraulic system? Extra oil capacity makes the hydraulic stay cooler. I'm guessing that the contamination is wrecking your pump. Larry

PTO Shaft Removal

IP: 184.202.103.26 Posted on October 5, 2011 at 08:44:37 PM by Tom

Larry, Thanks for the great site and all your help thru the years. I'm going to pull PTO shaft from 1800B in prep for then pulling the engine to do a trans repair. Do I need to drain the rear end or the trans? I'm not sure what the normal fluid height is or whether to expect any spillage if I don't drain it first. Also, with PTO shaft out, would there be a path for cross-flow of fluid between the trans, hydraulics, or rear end that I need to worry about?

Re(1): PTO Shaft Removal

IP: 69.72.27.2 Posted on October 5, 2011 at 09:07:14 PM by Larry from MD

No.nothing should drain out,just leave it in.Don't worry about cross- flow.Don't forget to dig out the oring before pulling the long shaft.

Re(2): PTO Shaft Removal

IP: 75.104.169.180 Posted on October 6, 2011 at 08:05:56 PM by Larry Harsin

sounds like Larry from Maryland got your questions answered. Good Luck! Larry

Re(3): PTO Shaft Removal

IP: 208.126.51.13 Posted on October 12, 2011 at 09:05:18 AM by Gail

The clutch needs to be replaced on our Oliver 1800. The pto shaft is not coming out. What is the trick to getting the shaft to release? Thanks for your help. Any other suggestions for clutch replacement would be useful and valuable. A diagram would be especially helpful. Thank you.

Re(4): PTO Shaft Removal

IP: 75.104.169.70 Posted on October 12, 2011 at 05:37:17 PM by Larry Harsin

The plug comes out and then there is a rubber O ring that you take out. Then the shaft should come out. If it has a hydra-power drive, you are going to have to remove the engine and the hydra-power together and set it on the floor. Then split the hydra- power off of the engine and replace the clutch. If it doesn't have the hydra-power, you don't have to remove the engine. You can replace it right in the tractor. Larry

Re(5): PTO Shaft Removal

IP: 69.72.27.91 Posted on October 13, 2011 at 07:22:25 AM by Larry from MD

Sometimes the shaft just plain gets tight in there,for varios reasons.You end up haveing to improvise a puller useing a long bolt some washers and a piece of pipe.Rotateing the engine a little both ways might help.

1755 shifting problem

IP: 24.111.10.242 Posted on October 3, 2011 at 01:58:23 PM by Kevin Buehner

I have a 1755 gas with over/under hydraualic shift that has a problem with shifting. When you push the clutch in and try to shift the main transmission the shifter won't move until you move the over/under lever throught the ranges. At that time the tractor will move a bit as if it was still in gear. The clutch seems to have plenty of free play and seems to release well before the pedal is to the floor. It just seems as if the over/ under isn't releasing somehow. Thanks

Re(1): 1755 shifting problem

IP: 69.72.27.223 Posted on October 3, 2011 at 05:55:54 PM by Larry from MD

Thats allmost normal for those tractors,they shift good in underdrive.You need to get in the habit of shifting just before the tractor comes to a comepleat stop.

Re(2): 1755 shifting problem

IP: 75.104.169.180 Posted on October 4, 2011 at 07:28:37 AM by Larry Harsin

That is the nature of those tractors. You have to shift into under drive before it will loosen up. Larry

550 PTO output shaft

IP: 70.26.16.69 Posted on October 2, 2011 at 08:12:15 AM by Patrick

Hi Larry, I just bought a 550 and noticed there is a lot of play in the PTO output shaft. Can this be fixed from the back or do I have to split the rear end? Thanks

Re(1): 550 PTO output shaft

IP: 69.72.27.9 Posted on October 2, 2011 at 06:32:02 PM by Larry from MD

Those shafts were reversible and if the small end is in they wear and you get lots of looseness.The easy thing to do is buy a shaft with 1 3/8 on both ends and replace the one you have.Take yours out and try the other end in,if its tight then get a new full size shaft.You can buy a generic shaft and drill your own hole for a cheap fix.

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