"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - September, 2008 Archives


1955 Oliver

IP: 76.240.211.200 Posted on September 30, 2008 at 08:06:28 PM by Danny

The steering worked at one time but having trouble with fuel supply caused it to set and when I got that resolved the steering will not move! What might be wrong could the steering column have stuck?

Re(1): 1955 Oliver

IP: 4.249.108.231 Posted on October 1, 2008 at 12:00:46 PM by Larry from Maryland

Yes that is possible the upper bearing can get moisture in it and rust tight. It can allso break apart and drop parts down into the lower parts and jam everything. If the steering valve is stuck you will feel some springing as you wiggle the wheel back and forth.

Re(2): 1955 Oliver

IP: 75.104.161.144 Posted on October 2, 2008 at 06:30:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say that Larry from MD is correct. Larry


Oliver 70 moisture on manifold

IP: 216.196.227.212 Posted on September 30, 2008 at 11:38:32 AM by gene bustle

i just got my grandfathers rc70 running after many years, everything in engine new. i get moisture around bottom of intake/top of carb after running a few minutes. got any answers? thanks

Re(1): Oliver 70 moisture on manifold

IP: 74.130.212.73 Posted on October 1, 2008 at 04:00:35 AM by Eric Prewitt

Sounds like the Fuel is Atomizing really well, It is condensation where the air going through the intake is colder than the Temp. outside. In some of our Antique Motors we would actually have Frost on the intake after a Pull.

Re(2): Oliver 70 moisture on manifold

IP: 75.104.161.144 Posted on October 2, 2008 at 06:27:27 AM by Larry Harsin

This is not unusual. It won't hurt anything. Larry


1800 gas converting to diesel

IP: 71.49.77.189 Posted on September 29, 2008 at 07:59:39 AM by Jessica

What kind of diesel motor could you change out for a 1800 gas tractor. Wanting to go to diesel.

Re(1): 1800 gas converting to diesel

IP: 75.104.189.7 Posted on September 30, 2008 at 06:22:28 AM by Larry Harsin

The easiest thing to do would be to put in the regular Oliver Waukesha 310 diesel. A Cummins conversion could be done, but it is a lot more work and harder to do. We answered your former question and it is in the Sept. Archives. You might want to check out that answer. Larry


Oliver 600

IP: 71.226.131.60 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 05:25:07 AM by R. Hall

I purchased an oliver tractor, at least that"s what I was told. The identification plate at the top says "The Oliver corporation" USA serial# 460292 and model # 990/OA. The bottom of the plate says " Made in England." I was told it was originaly to be a David Brown 990 but USA received the tractor and they made it into a Oliver 600 with new paint and grill. Could you give me some history about this tractor or tell me where I could find information? Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 600

IP: 217.121.215.184 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 05:55:24 AM by n.h.mulder

The Oliver 600 was made in England by David Brown for Oliver, based on the David Brown 950. Some sources also claim a similarity to the 990.(tractorData.com)

Re(2): Oliver 600

IP: 75.104.190.43 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 08:08:51 AM by Larry Harsin

The above info posted by N.H.Mulder is correct. Further information that I have is: The Oliver 600 Standard was produced for 1 yr. 1962 - 1963. They were diesels, the make of engine was David Brown 4 cylinder, cubic inch displacement is 186, estimated PTO hp on the drawbar is 48, 6 speeds forward 2 reverse, They weighed 4330 lbs. Their list price (M.L.S.R.P) was $3920. Larry


Oliver 574

IP: 217.121.215.184 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 04:20:37 AM by n.h.mulder

I am offered an Oliver 574, can't find anything about it, should be 4 wheel drive about 60HP do you know it?

Re(1): Oliver 574

IP: 75.104.190.43 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 08:12:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't heard of an Oliver 574. I don't know what that would be. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 574

IP: 217.121.215.184 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 02:01:48 PM by n.h.mulder

That answer intrigued me, because the machine looks real and carries its type proudly. May be the following is true: 574 is the Japanese indication for 57HP and 4 wd. Now the Iseki factory produced machines for US companies to be sold under their name. White was one of them:Iseki T9000 is the White 275. However i cannot find that Oliver had the same deal, any one know?

Re(3): Oliver 574

IP: 67.142.130.31 Posted on September 28, 2008 at 09:30:04 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

I'm going to say no. Japanese tractors didn't start coming to the U.S. until the 70's. By then, White was discontinuing Oliver, Cockshutt, and MM names. The first Oliver tractors not produced by Oliver were made by Fiat. Ironically, Allis Chalmers bought nearly the same Fiat tractors to sell too.

Re(4): oliver574

IP: 75.104.189.92 Posted on September 29, 2008 at 07:06:10 AM by Larry Harsin

There were no Olivers built in Japan. White yes, but not Olivers. Contact the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City and see what they can come up with for an Oliver 574. Phone 641-228-1099 Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry


Converating a 1800 gas engine to a diesel motor.

IP address: 71.49.77.189 Date: September 27, 2008 at 12:12 PM by Jessica

Is it possible to change a 1800 oliver motor to a cummins diesel motor, 12 valave. Please help

Re: Converating a 1800 gas engine to a diesel motor.

IP address: 75.104.190.43 Date: September 28, 2008 at 9:57 AM by Larry Harsin

It's doable, but it isn't something I'd try. You might contact Adam Shiflett 540-363-1411. I believe he has experience at this type of thing. Larry


rpm for a 1900

IP: 64.139.110.163 Posted on September 24, 2008 at 10:02:49 PM by matt

does anyone know what is the max rpm for the pto is on an oliver 1900 diesel?

Re(1): rpm for a 1900

IP: 75.105.54.108 Posted on September 25, 2008 at 05:59:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that it was around 585 rpms. Larry


S 88 injector nozzles

IP: 72.12.201.221 Posted on September 24, 2008 at 04:50:53 PM by Jerry

I'm in the process of changing my injector nozzles on my 88 diesel. Any helpful hints before I start.

Re(1): S 88 injector nozzles

IP: 75.105.54.108 Posted on September 24, 2008 at 06:03:06 PM by Larry Harsin

Just take the lines off and remove the injectors. Get everything cleaned up good, before you start. Larry


1944 Oliver 60 standard

IP: 71.244.172.94 Posted on September 23, 2008 at 07:26:01 PM by Roy

The 60 standard i have is loud(i have the correct muffler) and makes a knocking noise. A guy said it may be the main engine bearing. Are they still available? What kind of cost is involved? Can I do it myself?

Re(1): 1944 Oliver 60 standard

IP: 75.105.54.108 Posted on September 24, 2008 at 06:08:59 AM by Larry Harsin

The main bearings are the hardest to find. Check with Maibach Tractor in Creston OH. 800-808-9934. Larry


550 Power steering

IP: 209.94.184.70 Posted on September 22, 2008 at 09:54:04 AM by Daryl

My friend has a 550 with power steering. We would like to replace the seals in the piston assmebly but we do not no how to remove the piston from the cylinder. It looks like the ends have been welded to the cylinder tube. We know that there is a rebuilt kit for this. Can you offer any help?

Re(1): 550 Power steering

IP: 75.105.44.217 Posted on September 22, 2008 at 09:46:49 PM by Larry Harsin

My information says there is not a rebuild kit for that cylinder. It is not made to be rebuilt. There is a piston rod seal available, but not seals for the inner as it is a sealed unit, not meant to be taken apart. However, you might be able to take this to a shop that repairs hydraulic cylinders and they could possibly cut the cylinder and take it apart and reseal the piston and then put it back together and reweld it. I have heard that a Corvette steering cylinder from the mid 70's is close enough to being alike, that it can be used. The price was approx. $100 vs. $400 for the one from AGCO. This may be worth checking. Larry


1850 PTO Leak

IP: 75.77.66.230 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:55:43 AM by Kevin

I had a leak on the lower (external) pto shaft. I replaced the seal and it still leaks. I am certain that the seal is installed correctly. What do I do now? Is it possible that somehow the shaft is worn? Is there such a thing as a double seal? Do you have any Ideas?

Re(1): 1850 PTO Leak

IP: 75.105.44.217 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:05:37 PM by Larry Harsin

It may be leaking through that internal plug that is inside the shaft. It has a seal around it. I would take a punch or something and try to work(push it in and out, it is spring loaded) that plug back and forth on that seal and see if I could get it to stop leaking, before I tore it all apart. If you could look at a Parts Manual, it might help you understand what might possibly be leaking. Larry


Oliver S 88 diesel

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:50:14 AM by Matt

Hi Larry made the adjustments on the injector pump as you decribed last time. The tractor has tons of power but im still getting some diesel smoke. Is this pretty normal on these motors. just wondering can an electrical tach be mounted on this tractor

Re(1): Oliver S 88 diesel

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:51:24 AM by Larry Harsin

You should have a little diesel smoke, as long as it isn't excessive. No. I don't know of any electrical tach for a S88. Larry

Re(2): Oliver S 88 diesel

IP: 75.105.44.217 Posted on September 22, 2008 at 05:33:22 AM by Larry Harsin

Possibly. I don't know. If they havn't been checked recently, that may help. Larry

Re(1): Oliver S 88 diesel

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:51:24 AM by Larry Harsin

You should have a little diesel smoke, as long as it isn't excessive. No. I don't know of any electrical tach for a S88. Larry


1800 gas

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:48:04 AM by Tom

Larry, Several things on my mind. Just finished major reliability enhancement effort on my 1800 and would like to share some results. 1) - USX32-1 carb has an accelerator pump down in the bowl. Mine was shot and caused tractor to run very rich even with needles closed. Diaphragm for this was hard to find, but I finally got one thru a great fellow goes by the nickname 'TrioDiode' on Ebay or Weitzel's in Norwalk OH. Good source if you anyone is struggling like I did. 2) Mr. Gasket universal electric fuel pump ($40) works fantastic. My original mech pump was shot. This tractor sits long periods between uses and this meant long crank times to fill the float bowl before it would start. With the electric pump, it fills the bowl the moment you turn the key to on. Tractor starts 1st time everytime! I recommend it. One ?? - My governor spring is broke and has been cobbled with coat hanger wire. Having trouble finding a new one locally. Any suggestions where to look? Another ?? - When trying to raise the hitch, if I move the lever all the way fwd, there is no motion. If I bring it back a touch, the hitch lifts no problem. Is this a simple linkage adjustment issue or something more complex?

Re(1): 1800 gas

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:49:13 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a governor spring from Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Question 2. That is the normal thing with the linkage in that tractor. Nothing is wrong with it. Larry


Parts for an Oliver 1450

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:46:01 AM by Ruby Howard

I am looking for parts available for my tractor. I am in need of a grill & a battery box along with other misc. parts but the grill & battery box are the most important at this point in time.

Re(1): Parts for an Oliver 1450

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:47:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry


880 jumps out of 1st and 3rd gear

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:43:38 AM by Dean Schmidt

My 880 jumps out of 1st and 3rd gear. Are the gears shot or is there some adjustment I am missing?

Re(1): 880 jumps out of 1st and 3rd gear

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:45:00 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have an 880 with spur gear transmission, it could be a loose shifting fork, a bent shifting fork, or it could be a problem with the front gear on the bevel pinion shaft, such as a broken thrust washer or a broken snap ring that has come off. Larry


880 replace of right shifting rail

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:41:07 AM by Dean Schmidt

The right shifting rail broke. I have a replacement part coming but was wondering if you knew of a way to put rail back in over the detent ball and spring without breaking tractor in half to get at back side to depress it while sliding it in?

Re(1): 880 replace of right shifting rail

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:42:36 AM by Larry Harsin

I would follow the instructions in the Shop Manual. I normally remove the poppit block with all 3 rails and assemble the rails into the poppit block on the bench. Thenn I install the assembly into the housing. I normally don't split the tractor. If the tractor is equipped with a power booster, I remove the engine and the power booster, then work on the transmission. Then, put the rails etc. back in before the engine. Larry


Oliver 1250

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:35:56 AM by Harry Doucet

I have an Oliver 1250, and finding out that it is a 24 volt system. There is an ignition location but we do not have a key for the tractor. I removed the switch from the panel and there are 6 to 8 wires on the back. Does this tractor require a key to start, if so where can I get one or find a switch to change out with a new key?

Re(1): Oliver 1250

IP: 12.218.62.128 Posted on September 21, 2008 at 10:39:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 or Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9934. Larry


550 3pt hitch pump

IP: 74.62.80.114 Posted on September 17, 2008 at 01:19:53 PM by jon stachowiak

I sheared the "gear-shaft" ( it is about a 1/2 inch in diameter and has teeth on it)inside the vickers vane pump that raises the 3pt hitch. I called on getting a new one and they want 1100.00 for it!! Can I get them rebuilt or do you know if anyone has a used one? any help would be great. The #'s on the pump are: V1203521B and then underneath that is 10 S203 the tractor is a 1973 oliver 550.


oliver 580 manure spreader

IP: 216.161.92.187 Posted on September 16, 2008 at 07:39:01 PM by ernie firestone

Larry: i have looked on several occasions for a picture of the 580 manure spreader.. pto powered.. i acquired it from the willamette valley in oregon.. several farmers there shared it for spreading lime... and as such it isnt in the best looking order.. i have gotten it together and it works good.. nice machine.. tho i dont really know what it should look like with paint etc..and where would i look for a serial number to find out what year it is... i worked and used it for a couple years before i finally saw that it is a 580, barely visible on the beater side panel..i suppose down the road i will be needing parts info for the gear boxes also... and i have a two roller packer that a neighbor sold me.. big rolls in front and smaller rolls in back....10 foot....is there a place that would have serial number info on it also. this area had alot of oliver equipment in it at one time....

Re(1): oliver 580 manure spreader

IP: 75.104.182.22 Posted on September 16, 2008 at 08:02:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Call the Museum in Charles City. I think they would have info on that spreader. They'd probably have an Operator's Manual. Some of those old pictures were in black and white though. I would say it was green with white wheels. Their phone: 641-228-2099. Ask them about the packer also. If they could help you identify it, they would have a manual for it also. Their email is: fchs@fiai.net. If you can, send them a picture. Larry


oliver rear side panels

IP: 208.126.101.184 Posted on September 15, 2008 at 06:36:45 AM by mark

Will the rear side panels from a super 77 fit on a super 88? Thanks

Re(1): oliver rear side panels

IP: 75.104.182.22 Posted on September 16, 2008 at 04:32:46 PM by Larry Harsin

No, they won't. Larry


Oliver 1600 Char-Lynn part # needed

IP: 72.161.144.3 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 05:56:29 PM by Dan McLane

Hi gang. I am replacing my Hydramotor and need a Char-Lynn replacement part number. I intend to fit the Char-Lynn in myself insted of buying the "KIT". Just need to know a charlynn part number to buy. Any help is apprecaited.


Re(1): Oliver 1600 Char-Lynn part # needed

IP: 75.105.54.75 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 06:57:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the number. Someone who has done this will have the number. Larry

Still need a part number

IP: 72.161.144.3 Posted on September 15, 2008 at 06:11:15 PM by dan mclane

If ANYONE can help.


rear fenders

IP: 76.105.227.88 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 03:29:04 PM by Roger Mesenbrink

I am in need of new or good used rear fenders. What Oliver fenders fit the 1962 550 tractor? Roger

Re(1): rear fenders

IP: 65.121.139.196 Posted on September 16, 2008 at 11:49:36 AM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Also try Steiner Tractor. I got new ones for a 60 from them. Not perfect, but faaaaaar better than what I had or could find at the time.

Re(1): rear fenders

IP: 75.105.54.75 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 06:55:23 PM by Larry Harsin

The same fenders that fit the S55. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Kent Gordon in Palestine TX 903-729-8349. Larry


oliver 88 row crop 1952

IP: 206.51.111.234 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 07:30:55 AM by KURT Farrell

When our tractor runs for about 40 minutes using a brush hog under load she starts to cut out and back fire a little bit.up until then it runs fine.Any suggestions are welcome.

Re(1): oliver 88 row crop 1952

IP: 75.105.54.75 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 06:53:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd think that maybe the coil is breaking down. I'd try a different ignition coil. Larry


1850 steering cylinder

IP: 71.10.111.116 Posted on September 12, 2008 at 07:46:20 PM by jeremy

Hi Larry, I posted a question earlier about the steering cyliner on my 1850. It has the adjustable wide front. I am replacing the broken steering arm and bearings. You told me to remove the steering shaft. I am at that point. The bolt is really tight holding the gear to the shaft. Is it regualar theads and not reverse? Is there any trick to hold the gear so it doesn't move while trying to turn the bolt off? Also, once I remove the bolt will the gear and shaft just slide right up and out of the cylinder? Now that I am in there I can see that you have to remove the shaft in order to lift the cylinder out. The only reason I'm trying to remove the cylinder is to replace the upper bearing. I am assuming you can replace the lower bearing from underneith. Will I have to worry about the lower seal on the cylinder being ruined because I am removing the shaft? Sorry about all the questions. I am flying solo on this repair with out my always helpful dad. Thanks again for all the help.

Re(1): 1850 steering cylinder

IP: 75.105.54.104 Posted on September 13, 2008 at 05:41:26 AM by Larry Harsin

It is regular threads. You keep on unscrewing it till it gets tight, then unscrew it some more and it pulls itself off of the shaft. It will slide right out of the gear in the steering cylinder. Ideally, the gear should stay in the cylinder. Then, after you get the shaft and the gear apart, I usually pull the gear up out of the cylinder and replace the quad-ring that seals the bottom of the cylinder so it won't leak. Larry

Re(2): 1850 steering cylinder

IP: 71.10.111.116 Posted on September 13, 2008 at 07:36:56 AM by jeremy

Thanks Larry, So am I supposed to leave the snap ring in there or remove it in order to pull itself off the shaft. I just got the bolt off, but I removed the snap ring first. The shaft didn't slide it's self off the gear by unthreading the bolt. Can I tap the shaft up from the bottom or should I put the snap ring back in to do this. Thanks again for the help. Jeremy

Re(3): 1850 steering cylinder

IP: 71.10.111.116 Posted on September 13, 2008 at 03:09:22 PM by jeremy

Ok, this is where I'm at. I followed what you said and it all came apart just right, like you said it would. The new bearings are in an everything. If I had been sent the right steering arm I would be done. Since I'll be waiting a while and I have everything apart. Do you recommend me replacing all the o rings in the steering cylinder? Or will I cause more leaks? This looks striaght forward, just take the snap ring out on the end and slide everything out. Is there anything else I should replace in there? Hopefully this is it for my questions right now. As always I really appreciate your great insight. Jeremy

Re(4): 1850 steering cylinder

IP: 75.105.54.75 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 06:50:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I typically do not take the steering cylinders apart. Leave the O rings as they are. Put the quad ring on the bottom of the sector and leave the rest alone. Larry

Re(5): 1850 steering cylinder

IP: 71.10.111.116 Posted on September 14, 2008 at 07:02:15 PM by jeremy

Ok, will do,thank you very much for all the help. I couldn't do it with out your help.


Row crop 70

IP: 68.243.73.233 Posted on September 12, 2008 at 05:15:54 PM by Justin Smith

I have a 70 with great sounding motor, but recently I have been pulling it. I was wondering about a rebuild kit, or possible replacement with 77 motor? I look forward to your anser, Thanks for your time!

Re(1): Row crop 70

IP: 75.105.54.104 Posted on September 13, 2008 at 05:35:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I've never seen a 77 motor put into a 70. It would be an awful job. I wouldn't recommend trying it. Parts are hard to come by for a rebuild kit. You could try Montes Equipment Inc. They are in Chicago. 800-228-2625 www.montesequipment.com Larry


Polarity

IP: 216.229.17.10 Posted on September 12, 2008 at 03:36:30 PM by Roy Smith

Is the electrical system on an Oliver "70" positive ground or negative ground? I am changing batteries and the cables do not seem to go back as I think they should...Roy

Re(1): Polarity

IP: 4.249.108.187 Posted on September 12, 2008 at 06:17:24 PM by Larry from Maryland

Its positive ground unless someone has converted it to an alternator, then its negitive ground.

Re(2): Polarity

IP: 75.105.54.104 Posted on September 13, 2008 at 05:31:44 AM by Larry Harsin

It was built with positive ground. Larry


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