"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - September, 2012 Archives


brakes super 88

IP: 173.215.29.236 Posted on September 30, 2012 at 02:52:45 PM by Dwight Ackerman

Larry i am going to replace the disk brakes on my s88 1958 is the year. Is there anything speicaL I SHOULD LOOK FOR OR PAY SPEICAL ATTENTION TO. The brakes are just worn out on the right side and about half gone on the left side. Are there any speical tools needed for this job. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): brakes super 88

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on October 1, 2012 at 08:06:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Check the condition of the springs on the Actuators, there are 3 per side. If they are stretched at all, replace them. Otherwise, just clean up everything real good before you put it together. No special tools. Larry


oliver 88 fan belt

IP: 71.185.182.233 Posted on September 30, 2012 at 11:54:40 AM by Steve

Fan belt broke on Oliver 88. Tried a 1/2 inch belt - not work. Do you know what the size would be for that belt? From crank shaft to water pump. might be something like a 3/4 belt ?

Re(1): oliver 88 fan belt

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on October 1, 2012 at 08:03:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Call your AGCO Dealer and get the correct fan belt for it. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


Air Force Oliver

IP: 184.20.47.31 Posted on September 30, 2012 at 06:39:33 AM by Todd Weyl

I have an Oliver tractor model U.S. Air Force 57D139. It is yellow instead of green. I am wanting info and advice on what I should do with it.

Re(1): Air Force Oliver

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on October 1, 2012 at 08:02:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I would need a picture of it to give you any advice. Most military Olivers are worth saving. I have no idea what has been done with it etc. I need more info. You can send a picture to our email. The address is at the top of this page. Larry

Re(2): Air Force Oliver

IP: 209.50.28.66 Posted on October 1, 2012 at 01:01:17 PM by bastar

Somewhere, I have some photos of 77 & Super 77 tractors that were built for the Air Force. Those that I have seen have a 24 Volt electrical system and all the electrical wiring and systems are shielded. Should have a tag on the fender with the military sepecifications on it.


Found an Oliver

IP: 67.246.72.40 Posted on September 29, 2012 at 07:07:36 AM by Micheal Hall

Mr Harsin, I just found a 1963 Oliver 880D and plan to look at it later this week. Can you give me any advice on issues i should look for prior to buying an Oliver

Re(1): Found an Oliver

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on September 29, 2012 at 07:26:31 AM by Larry Harsin

The main thing on a 1963 Oliver diesel is the transmission, as it is helical geared. Then, secondly, the over all condition of the unit and the tires. Tires are a BIG item. Larry

Re(2): Found an Oliver

IP: 67.246.72.40 Posted on September 29, 2012 at 07:54:26 AM by Micheal Hall

Thank you for getting back to so soon. From the pictures it seems the tires are newer. The transmission, How would you check it, if you were buying it? It has a loader as well? Here is the link I found online. http://utica.craigslist.org/grd/3246073310.html Thank you again Mr Harsin. It's nice knowing there are people still out there who know there stuff if you ever need any help C-5 Galaxy Cargo Aircraft. I'm your Man. LOL

Re(3): Found an Oliver

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on October 1, 2012 at 07:58:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. You are going to have to figure that out. There is no way to tell about the trans unless you drive it. Larry


Oliver Muffler

IP: 69.26.8.98 Posted on September 28, 2012 at 09:27:42 PM by Bill Wagner

On many Oliver mufflers there is a heat shield. What exactly is its purpose and which way is it to be facing?

Re(1): Oliver Muffler

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on September 29, 2012 at 07:24:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The heat shield should be facing the air intake so that the heat won't melt that plastic bowl on your pre-cleaner. Larry


265 engine

IP: 70.51.59.37 Posted on September 27, 2012 at 08:31:54 PM by Don

Hi Larry. Were there ever any 265 engines built with 7 main bearings and if so in what machines. Thanks.

Re(1): 265 engine

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on September 27, 2012 at 10:47:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The 1800A gas was built with the 265 that you describe. Larry


1755 steering

IP: 206.131.30.2 Posted on September 27, 2012 at 09:31:03 AM by jeremy

Hi Larry, You've always been so helpful. My 1755 diesel is leaking hydraulic oil from underneath the hydraulic steering cylinder. Would this be what others call the quad ring. If so, is there another seal to replace as well. How do I go about getting to the quad ring. Do I have to remove the whole steering cylinder from the tractor to get to it? That means the radiator, the oil coolers, grill and all hoods. Or can I get to it from the bottom? Thanks for all the help.

Re(1): 1755 steering

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on September 27, 2012 at 10:46:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is the quad ring. Replace the quad ring and the O ring on the cap and the O ring on the plug in the sector. I normally do them from the bottom, if I can get the cap off and get the plug out of the sector. There are timing marks on the rack and the sector. You will have to use a mirror to see them. For a first timer mechanic, you may have to remove the radiator. I normally let the front end down out of the steering unit and then slide the sector up far enough that I can replace the quad ring. Larry

Re(2): 1755 steering

IP: 206.131.30.2 Posted on September 28, 2012 at 07:18:51 AM by jeremy

I may have more questions once I dig into it. We just got done combining 15 acres of 55 bushel per acre beans with this tractor and a 90 allis pull type combine. Great fun.


1655 diesel tractor knock

IP: 71.13.144.194 Posted on September 26, 2012 at 02:10:54 PM by Jesse Collins

I have a 1655D that has been in the family for a very long time. A few days ago i was out pulling the brush hog and when i got done i decided I should pressure wash all the dirt and oil off of it. When I went to put it away I maybe drove it 30 feet and it started to knock really bad. It sould like its comeing from the back of the motor closest to the seat. Do you have any ideas on what could be the cause of this? It ran perfect up until now.

Re(1): 1655 diesel tractor knock

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on September 27, 2012 at 07:29:28 AM by Larry Harsin

It could have a serious problem in the engine. If it is starting to knock real badly, I would not run it anymore until I investigate. Such as removing the oil pan and looking for broken parts. I doubt if washing it had anything to do with it, it just happened. Larry


1650

IP: 74.206.44.31 Posted on September 25, 2012 at 08:00:56 PM by dalen

i have a 1650 gas with loader when i dump the bucket the whole loader raises? also pto output shaft leaks around the shaft. could you steer me in the right direction?

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on September 26, 2012 at 07:11:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Check you Operator's Manual and you might adjust the restrictor for the bucket cylinder. Also, try switching the hoses on the couplings. As far as the PTO leak, there is a O ring on the outside of the bearing. It may need to be replaced. If it still leaks, the oil may be coming through the bearing itself - then you'll have to replace the bearing. This is a common problem on 1650's. They tend to leak there. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 1650

IP: 209.50.28.66 Posted on September 26, 2012 at 11:10:40 PM by B A Star

Assuming that you have two way cylinders on both the booms and bucket, you need to have the hoses for the bucket attached to the LH side couplers. If you already have the hoses attached to couplers as suggested and have the problem it means that more than likely you have a blown thermal relief valve in the cover the seat is bolted to. I also assume tht you have a single speed 540 PTO unit. Dual speeds seldom leak at the output shaft. The gear that the shaft goes into on a single speed had a plastic cap over the open end to keep oil out. That cap has come off the gear, it's held on by a snap ring. Unfortunately the unit must be disassembled to replace the cap.


77 wiring

IP: 70.194.8.233 Posted on September 23, 2012 at 07:42:13 AM by wade platt

I have a 1949 77 gas rowcrop that I'm restoring. I was told by the oliver guy I know to run an alternator which I had wanted to run anyway. I have a one post alternator and I'm wandering were that wire should go?

Re(1): 77 wiring

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on September 25, 2012 at 07:38:36 AM by Larry Harsin

That wire should go to the ammeter. Larry


oil weight for Oliver 88

IP: 199.47.186.254 Posted on September 19, 2012 at 11:34:34 AM by Michael Teague

Should I run a single viscosity 30 weight oil in the tractor, or should I use a multiple weight. Such as Rotella 15w-40. Would a Lucas oil additive be a good idea. The engine is tight and clean running. My thinking is that the engine may be use to 30wt and a thinner oil may smoke. I have purchased tractor recently.

Re(1): oil weight for Oliver 88

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:33:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Rotella 15-40 is an excellent choice. You don't need the additive. Larry


Oil seal replacement

IP: 75.245.121.63 Posted on September 19, 2012 at 10:07:55 AM by Benny88

How do I remove lift arm bracket from rocker shaft?

Re(1): Oil seal replacement

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:31:32 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are talking about the upper rock shaft, there is just a snap ring that holds it on. If it is the lower rock shaft, you have to remove the PTO unit from the tractor to access it. Larry


1600 repower

IP: 74.4.41.90 Posted on September 18, 2012 at 02:43:05 PM by BOBBY

I was looking at putting a 6BTA cummins in a 1600 oliver. I know that you need a bellhousing from a 1850 with a perkins. Has anyone done a 1600. I have seen 1650's and 1850's. Thanks for any input.

Re(1): 1600 repower

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on November 8, 2012 at 07:11:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't recommend that you try this. It is REALLY hard to do. There is a link on our Home Page of this website, to Adam Shifflet (Shep). He has done this, I believe. You might check it out with him. Larry


1600 Oliver

IP: 74.4.41.90 Posted on September 18, 2012 at 02:40:03 PM by BOBBY

I was looking at putting a 6BTA cummins in a 1600 oliver. I know that you need a bellhousing from a 1850 with a perkins. Has anyone done a 1600. I have seen 1650's and 1850's. Thanks for any input.

Re(1): 1600 Oliver

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:29:08 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I havn't heard of any 1600's being powered with a Cummins. Larry

Re(2): 1600 Oliver

IP: 74.4.41.90 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 10:10:08 AM by BOBBY

Thank you. If you hear of anything could you please let me know. I think a cummins in the 1600 would make a nice tractor.


building puller

IP: 76.6.225.0 Posted on September 17, 2012 at 08:40:00 PM by Doug Fark

Larry, we are researching the idea of building a 3208 Cat powered puller. The class our club runs is 9000 altered farm. Its 9000# with a 3250 RPM limit and 18.4 tire limit. What Oliver frame will take the V-8 engine? The 2255 is too heavy to make the 9000 weight limit. Any ideas on how to make this work?

Re(1): building puller

IP: 97.73.64.154 Posted on September 18, 2012 at 04:12:55 PM by larry from maryland

The 2255 frame is the only green one to fit the v8, but i have heard of guys bolting it up to a lighter rear from maybe a 1850 or 1950 so they end up with a lighter tractor.

Re(2): building puller

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:27:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not into pulling. What Larry from Maryland says sounds good to me. Larry


1755 steering

IP: 71.185.182.233 Posted on September 17, 2012 at 06:52:37 PM by Steve

Just broke another stud on the drag link for the power steering cylinder in front under radiator. Second stud in 3 months. Don't know if they hit something. No one will tell. What have you found were the symptoms of that stud breaking in your experience.

Re(1): 1755 steering

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:26:02 AM by Larry Harsin

I've never had that problem, so it's hard to say. Are you hitting something with the front wheels? There are several possibilities it sounds like. Larry


fuel tank for 770 diesel

IP: 208.126.84.111 Posted on September 16, 2012 at 07:59:02 PM by Jim

The fuel tank on my '58 770 diesel is shedding "stuff" that plugs my fuel line. I removed the tank and took out the fuel guage to shine a light in the tank. Upon visual examination I can see that the bottom of the tank and up the sides of the tank about 2" is a black slime. Above that, the sides of the tank are corroded, almost like rust. The fuel cap is corroded as well so I experimented on it with muratic acid. The acid did not remove the corrosion like I thought it would. I thought about trying to power wash it but thought I'd better ask for advise before I tried that. Is there some way to get this tank cleaned up? Thanks Larry

Re(1): fuel tank for 770 diesel

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:23:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You might try putting a gallon of lacquer thinner in the empty tank and let it set awhile. Then, power wash the tank with hot soapy water and see if that cleans it up. Larry

Re(2): fuel tank for 770 diesel

IP: 98.168.201.219 Posted on September 22, 2012 at 05:24:35 PM by Larry K

I take my tanks to a radiator shop and have them boiled out and then epoxy lined. You can buy epoxy liner material, but unless you get the metal ultra clean, the epoxy liner will not bond.


1650 Oliver Purchase

IP: 70.198.1.52 Posted on September 16, 2012 at 12:04:17 PM by Steven

I recently purchased a 1650 Oliver with Miller m-12 loader at Auction. I'm in the construction buisness, and do not know very much about farm equipment. First question I have is about the 3pt. The loader is plumbed into the tractors hydraulics, and does not have a separate PTO pump. The 3pt will go down like it is supposed to with the control lever, but will not raise on its own. If you physically raise the 3pt arms up and hold them up the tractor will hold them up on its own if you wait for 30 seconds before letting go. Any ideas??

Secondly, on inspection prior to the auction bidding I noticed the tractor's steering gearbox had a crack in the cover on the top of it. I have had the tractor a couple weeks and been using it a little bit here and there. The last time I used the tractor steering to the left and felt very light drag in the steering wheel effort to turn in that direction. The tractor would still turn correctly to the right, though. I noticed the steering gearbox looked like it had spewed a bunch of hdyralic fluid out of it. In effort to get the tractor out of the pasture and back to the house for repairs, I tried to use a very large bar to turn the wheels to the left. I found that it was nearly impossible to force the wheels to the left. I'm wondering if something it complelety broken in the gearbox. Any thoughts,

Re(1): 1650 Oliver Purchase

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:20:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The by-pass screw for the 3 pt. hitch, may be turned out and that may be why it isn't working. You need to get an Operator's Manual. It explains all of this. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. I don't know what to say about the steering problem, with the info you give. You can call me some evening if you'd like and we can discuss it. 712-362-2966 Larry


1850 gas

IP: 56.0.143.25 Posted on September 16, 2012 at 00:11:28 AM by Steve

Looking at purchasing a 66' Gasoline 1850 and owner indicates that the Hydra-power needs to be looked at or needs adjustment? Further, that the "hi" sorta kicks out? Low seems to work fine. The hydra is the knob setup. I'm curious what the high side repair cost would be before I purchase the model? Can you give me some idea Larry?

Re(1): 1850 gas

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:15:44 AM by Larry Harsin

If you hire the work done, I would say it will cost approx. $1000 to fix it. Half parts and half labor. It will probably need a new direct drive clutch hub and oil collector ring, plus a seal and gasket kit. Larry


550 steering

IP: 65.93.162.218 Posted on September 15, 2012 at 05:05:50 PM by jamie

I rebuilt my steering box(rebuild kit) on my 550(saginaw) and put it back on. Now the steering wheel makes a whole revolution, in either direction, before the wheels move any. Did I put something back wrong? Or am I missing something? Thanks.

Re(1): 550 steering

IP: 75.105.32.52 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 07:12:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Apparently! :-) You'll have to take it apart and start over. It's hard for me to say what you did wrong. Larry

Re(2): 550 steering

IP: 74.198.164.108 Posted on September 20, 2012 at 04:35:48 PM by jamie

When turning the steering wheel(when the wheels dont move) the whole steering shaft moves up and down. Is that normal?

Re(3): 550 steering

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on September 21, 2012 at 07:16:17 AM by Larry Harsin

No. That is not normal. You need to get a local mechanic to fix this for you. Larry


1610 Oliver Loader

IP: 166.181.3.225 Posted on September 12, 2012 at 09:50:44 PM by James Frantzen

I just recently bought a restored Oliver 770 with woods belly mower. Gas, narrow front. Runs great! Excellent machine to mow around my trees. During the winter, I want to drop the belly mower and mount a loader. I just bought a Oliver 1610 loader today. NEEDS WORK. Good, straight loader, but I need to find the right sized bucket and make bucket attachments and bucket cylinders on it. Then I want to repaint it and put on new decals so it looks good on my 770!

My question - What years were 1610 loaders built? Could I find a manual for a 1610 loader or is that impossible to find anymore? And just curious ... serial number of the loader is 4423 - Do you know what year my loader was built? Or any other info about that particular serial number?

Re(1): 1610 Oliver Loader

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on September 13, 2012 at 07:44:54 AM by Larry Harsin

The Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City would have the Operator's Manual for the loader. It is an important book to have, as there is a lot of info about the loader in it. We don't have the info about the serial numbers on the loaders, but the Museum probably does. The information for servicing the cylinders is in this manual. 641-228-1099. Larry


Adjusting a Power Booster

IP: 166.182.3.15 Posted on September 11, 2012 at 08:28:25 PM by Jim

I have a 770 that I rebuilt the power booster with a new sprage clutch and clutch discs. Everything was assembled according to an Oliver Shop manual. Now that everything is back together, it does not seem to go into the low side. I started off with the same number of shims as I found it. The lever took good force and clicked good when pulled. It seemed like the low side was kind of engaged but if you took your hand off the lever it was back in direct. I tried adding more shims to the clutch pack (17/pack) and now the lever moves easier and still no luck. Everything is fine in direct drive, seems to me that the clutch discs aren't separating to let the sprag drive it for under drive. Does the threaded portion of the lever rod adjust anything (making it shorter or longer)?? The forks for the throwout bearing had some slop so I added bushings to the throwout assembly where the forks are and that took care of most of it. Any ideas or suggestions on getting low to engage? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): Adjusting a Power Booster

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on September 13, 2012 at 07:41:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree. I don't think the direct drive is releasing properly. Each pack of shims should have the same number of shims per pack. Check to be sure that the shim packs are installed in the proper place in relation to the clutch parts. (plates). Larry


1800 identification

IP: 99.183.201.17 Posted on September 9, 2012 at 05:14:51 PM by W. Blevins

My question is concerning my 1800 Oliver. I've owned this tractor for about 5 years and it was the second of several Olivers I've owned over the years. I always assumed that this was a B series tractor, but now that it's due for a overhaul due to low oil pressure and excessive oil consumption I'm thinking that it's actually a mid series A. The serial number is 118-941-892 and the Spec # is 18-2118. If I'm correct this is an A is it not? My question is this a 265 or 283 engine? The only casting #'s that I can find on the block are behind the starter and they are 106085-AA followed by 221020-F followed by 12141. There are also some numbers stamped into the timing cover flange but are illegible. I thought that the B and C series numbers were on the timing cover flange??? If this is a 265 are rebuild kits as accessible as they are for a 283. Also any way to determine if this is a 12" or 13" clutch before tearing into it. I thought I would replace it while I had the engine out as it is getting somewhat weak and out of adjustment. Sorry for the terribly long post, hope you can help and thank you for your time.

Re(1): 1800 identification

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on September 10, 2012 at 07:15:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 1800 is an A, built in early 1962. All of the A's gas models, were built with a 265 engine. In 1962, the serial numbers began with 118 344 and ended with 124 395. Then, also in 1962, they began the B series with 124 397 and ended with 126 352. They had the 283 engine. Larry


1850 diesel sheetmetal

IP: 74.32.249.22 Posted on September 5, 2012 at 05:32:03 PM by Austin

Hi do you know if there is anyone making new hoods and sheetmetal for the 1850. I Have 15,000 Dollars in the tractor and want good sheetmetal on it.every salvage yard you look at has them but they are all bent up and the front tabs are broken off the hood.

Re(1): 1850 diesel sheetmetal

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on September 6, 2012 at 06:41:36 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't know of anyone making sheet metal for the 1850 diesel. I don't have any used ones for the diesel either. Larry


Oliver 88 clutch

IP: 64.178.132.135 Posted on September 4, 2012 at 08:40:48 PM by Loren

I am tryig to figure out the easiest way to change the clutch on my 1949 88 standard. I'm not sure where to start. Need help. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 88 clutch

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on September 6, 2012 at 06:40:04 AM by Larry Harsin

The way I do it is to remove the hood and fuel tank and fold the dash up over the engine. You will need to remove the PTO drive shaft from the rear of the tractor and then proceed. Larry


White Front-end Loader

IP: 24.192.147.157 Posted on September 4, 2012 at 08:24:13 PM by Paul Regula

I have a 1969 1550 Oliver tractor. Will a White 656 front end loader fit this tractor? The loader looks like a quick connect style. Do I need supports going back to the rear axle or around the front or both? Will the hydraulics work off the two levers on the right side of the tractor near the 3 pt hitch lever? I have 4 hydraulic outlets.

Re(1): White Front-end Loader

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on September 6, 2012 at 06:38:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Talk to an AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The hydraulics should be able to handle that loader. I'm not familiar with that model loader. Larry


oliver tractor distributor

IP: 173.34.226.134 Posted on September 3, 2012 at 07:32:41 PM by frank lapointe

when I run my tractor it run great for about an hour and then it loses power and stops running. I then remove the distributor cap and it is full of black dust.I clean it out with the air hose and reset the points and it runs fine again until the dust builds up again.It is a 4cylinder gas engine.

Re(1): oliver tractor distributor

IP: 97.73.64.145 Posted on September 4, 2012 at 11:42:34 AM by larry from maryland

Is the rotor grinding into the top of distributor cap? Might need both parts new.Is the shaft loose? Point rubbing block bad?


Rocker arm shaft

IP: 24.31.182.31 Posted on September 3, 2012 at 04:36:44 PM by Mike

Installing the rocker arm assembly (shaft) on a Super 77 diesel. Cannot find in my manual if the arm needs to be torqued down or just tightened. Can you help out?

Re(1): Rocker arm shaft

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on September 6, 2012 at 06:36:25 AM by Larry Harsin I don't think there is a torque spec. Just tighten it down so that it is good and snug, but don't over tighten. Larry


oliver 77

IP: 174.124.67.139 Posted on September 3, 2012 at 08:57:05 AM by pulling kid

i have an oliver 77 gas that will miss and sometimes backfire, it will usually run smoothly for 4 or 5 minutes, it will miss and shut itself off, usually it will start right back up again, it has a 12 volt battery and alternator. does it need to be reduced to 6 volt

Re(1): oliver 77

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on September 6, 2012 at 06:35:03 AM by Larry Harsin

If it has a 6 volt coil, yes. Just put a resistor ahead of it. Larry


Cockshutt 1900

IP: 96.51.19.23 Posted on September 2, 2012 at 10:56:33 AM by Mark

I have a Cockshutt 1900, and have a couple of questions:

1. Currently the clutch does not disingauge, it stays about 2" from the floor pan. Any recommendations?

2. How hard would it be (what would be required) to remove the hydra-drive totally?

Re(1): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on September 2, 2012 at 03:31:52 PM by Larry Harsin

To remove the hydra power, you will need to get a different drive shaft assembly. You may have to replace the bell housing for the clutch. I have no recommendations. As you know, the engine is going to have to come out to fix this. Larry

Re(2): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 96.51.19.23 Posted on September 3, 2012 at 00:35:56 AM by mark

Thats what I was afraid of. Do you know of any other models of oliver / Cockshutt that could be used as a doner tractor?

Re(3): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on September 3, 2012 at 08:44:43 AM by Larry Harsin

No. The 1900 takes a special shaft. Possibly, something from a 1950 GM, but that shaft is a special part number. Larry


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